My Ice Climbing Kit

While the New England ice climbing season is off to a bit of a sluggish start a follower recently asked if I had a gear list for what I take ice climbing. Thanks for the inspiration for this post Kyle! I’m going to list items in the order that I usually pack my pack.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack Review

I’ve tested over a dozen packs specifically designed for waterfall ice climbing and this pack has held onto my #1 spot for best ice climbing pack. You can find my full review of this pack here.

Patagonia DAS Parka

If there is any chance of mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the reliability of a synthetic insulated belay parka, and the Patagonia DAS Parka is an industry leading choice.

Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket

If there is zero chance of encountering mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the warmth and packability of a down insulated belay parka, and for that the Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket is an excellent choice.

Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hooded Jacket Review

If it is wicked cold out I’ve been known to pack a second light puffy so I can “double up” on my belay jackets. Conversely, if it’s really mild out I might just up for carrying a lighter puffy then the two jackets I mention above. For that the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket is a great choice. You can find my recent detailed review of this one here.

32oz Wide Mouth Nalgene Water Bottle

I typically only carry one 32 ounce wide mouth water bottle for most ice climbing day trips. I do not use any type of insulated parka to keep it from freezing. I just pack in above my belay jackets and close to the small of my back. In the coldest of temps I have never had it freeze when packed up against my back. If I want something with more flavor then water I reach for some of my Skratch Labs stash. If it’s a really cold mission, or a really long day, I also pack an insulated water bottle with some Borvo Broth. This stuff really tastes amazing and is an excellent mid-day energy refresher!

AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit

I use the AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit as my base first aid kit then I add a few things to it that just live inside the kit. Like the Petzl e+lite headlamp, a small knife, and a small Bic lighter. I also slide a SAM splint down into the back sleeve of my backpack along with a CAT tourniquet.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Ice Screw Case

Hyperlight Mountain Gear Prism Ice Pack Review

This case is perfect for packing and protecting my ice screws. I’ve used Petzl and Black Diamond screws for over two decades of ice climbing with few complaints. This season I have swapped out almost my entire rack for a set of the new Blue Ice Aero Ice Screws. I’ll have a review out on these as soon as Mother Nature brings the ice back into condition. For sizes my typical set up is one 22cm, eight 13cm, and one 10cm. If heading to the bigger ice at Willoughby I will add four 17 to 19cm screws. I carry a Grivel Candela V-Thread Tool which conveniently nestles inside my 22cm ice screw. In the zippered pocket in the ice screw case I have some zip ties and the allen wrench for my CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools.

Author on Black Pudding Gully, WI4 – photo by Brent Doscher

For clipping ice screws on lead I highly prefer the Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraws. Notchless wire gate carabiners are the best, and the larger rope side carabiner on these draws is glove friendly. It’s also a better carabiner if you ever climb on a two rope system. I carry 8 of these racked on a Petzl William Screw Locking Carabiner. On this carabiner I also have a “locker draw” that I build from a Petzl Express Quickdraw Sling and two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners. There is also one “alpine draw” built with a 60cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling and two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners clipped to this large locking carabiner, a 180cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling with two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners, and a pre-tied “mini-quad“.

The rest of my climbing hardware is all clipper to a large locking carabiner and includes two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners, my DMM Pivot Belay Device, a 16 foot length of Sterling Power Cord, a traditional 6mm cord tied into a small prussic, a 40cm Edelrid Aramid Cord, and a small carabiner knife.

Inside my Hyperlite Prism Crampon Bag are my Petzl Dart Crampons and I often stuff a pair of Kahtoola MICROspikes in there as well.

Next I stuff my warmer Black Diamond Guide Gloves in. It has to be heinous out there for me to end up switching into these beasts but I won’t risk not being able to keep my hands warm in the winter so these get packed even though I rarely wear them. I do most of my ice leading wearing CAMP USA Geko Ice Pro Gloves and Rab Power Stretch Pro Glove Liners.

Inside my Petzl Sirocco Helmet (review) or Salewa Piuma 3.0 Helmet (I love both these helmets) I pack my preferred ice climbing harness which is the Petzl Sitta (my review) outfitted with three Petzl Caritools.

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon

In the top pocket of my pack I stick my Petzl IKO Core Headlamp along with some hand warmers, my snacks and food for the day. And since I know you are wondering what my favorite on mountain food choice is I’ll share that hands down the best food to take ice climbing is left over pizza from Flatbread NoCo!

For a rope I prefer the Sterling Rope Fushion Nano IX 9mm by 60m rope. It’s a triple rated rope (single, twin, half) so it is ideal for guiding two clients on multi-pitch ice. I have two of them in the bi-pattern.

While I already mentioned it above my ice tools of choice are the CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools. You can find my original in depth review of these tools here.

Finally on the outside of my shoulder strap I clip my Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio. If you’ve been following me for awhile you know I’m a huge fan of these radios. They make climbing & skiing so much better than it was before. Did you know you can get ten percent off of them with code “AlpineStart10”?

Links above are affiliate links. That means if you make a purchase from an online retailer after visiting those links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. These commissions keep this blog afloat. Thank you.

Well that pretty much sums up what I pack for a day of ice climbing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I can go into my clothing system in another post if there is interest. Did I miss anything? What do you bring that I don’t? Got any questions about anything in my kit? Please comment below if you do have a question or if you found this post helpful in anyway. Temperatures are finally getting colder so I’m hoping to get out later this week and actually use this gear for what it is intended for!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Common Use FRS Zone Channels in the White Mountains

With the welcomed increase of backcountry travelers using FRS and GMRS radios for internal group communication it is time we utilize a “Common Use Zone” system to improve group to group communication in the most popular zones of our region.

Modeled after the Utah Avalanche Center’s “Group to Group Radio Channel Initiative” this system would be for these intended uses:

Intended Uses & Radio Protocols:
  • A way for riders to communicate with people within their party and more importantly communicate with potential groups below and above you and your group.
  • To send a distress call to your group and other parties to aid in self rescue and to alert of potential threatening avalanche hazards.
  • To ask for someone to call 911 to mount an organized rescue, when 911 can’t be reached directly on your own.
  • Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
  • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
  • Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area

Radio Communication between you and your group:
  • Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
  • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
  • Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area
  • General communication

Radio Communication between multiple groups:
  • Route selection and timing to avoid riding directly above other groups
  • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
  • Radio communication when your group is clear of a given line or area, alerting other groups of a clear run-out zone
  • General communication

Here are some examples of the types of communication you might share or hear on these common use zone channels:

“This is Sarah on channel 21 reaching the ridge via the south snowfields. With no signs of instability and inconclusive hand shears our party of three is heading over to the top of Main Gully”

“This is Mark on channel 20, we just pulled out a small wind slab on our approach into Left Gully. Due to poor visibility we are transitioning here and dropping the bottom third of Left in a few minutes.”

“Mayday, mayday, mayday. This is Lisa on channel 19, we have a medical emergency near the base of Yale Gully. We are unable to raise 911. Does any one copy?”

The use of these radios does not take the place of solid decision making and carrying a Personal Locator Beacon like the Garmin inReach Mini 2 that can initiate a rescue if outside of both cell phone service and the limited range of FRS/GMRS radios.

It’s important to understand that most FRS radios are single channel monitoring. Some GMRS radios can monitor two channels simultaneously but may require a license.

The Common Use Zone Channel List*

Tuckerman RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 22
Gulf of SlidesFRS/GMRS Channel 21
East Snowfields & Raymond CataractFRS/GMRS Channel 20
Huntington RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 19
Great GulfFRS/GMRS Channel 18
Burt RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 17
Ammonoosuc RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 16
Oakes Gulf/Dry RiverFRS/GMRS Channel 15
Crawford NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 14
Franconia NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 13
Evans NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 12
GBA GladesFRS/GMRS Channel 11

*No CT or Privacy Codes (0)

In order to send and receive traffic on these channels from other groups you must ensure your radio is not using a CT/DTS privacy code. Check your radio’s user manual on how to turn these privacy codes off (or set to zero).

Recommended Radios

Common Use FRS Zone Channels
The author touring a slide path in Burt Ravine (Channel 17) with his Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio

Rocky Talkie Mountain FRS Radio <- My pick for 95% of people 10% off with “ALPINESTART10”

Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio My pick for professional mountain guides, avalanche course instructors, search & rescue teams 10% off with “ALPINESTART10”

Backcountry Access BC Link 2.0 FRS Radio

Backcountry Access BC Link Mini FRS Radio

Motorola Talkabout T600 H20 2-Way FRS Radios

*Due to using over 2 watts of power of the Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio requires licensing with the FCC. The process is quite simple online, took me about 30 minutes to complete, and cost $35. Detailed instructions how how to obtain a license can be found here. The above links are affiliate links which means if you purchase a radio through these links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

I’m hoping this suggestion becomes widely adapted by our backcountry community. Since a growing percentage of backcountry travelers are already carrying radios it makes good sense that we improve the overall communities safety by adapting a common use zone list like this.

ZONE MAP STICKERS! $2 each!

Common Use FRS Zone Channel Map

3 x 3 inch stickers of the zone map pictured above are available! Put one in your field book and on your skis or board! $2ea., free pickup in Conway, NH, or $1 S&H. Venmo preferred. Please include local pickup or shipping address with payment.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

References

https://utahavalanchecenter.org/education/group-group-radio-channel-initiative

UTILIZING COMMON RADIO CHANNELS IN HIGH-USE AVALANCHE TERRAIN

Rocky Talkie List of Community Channels by State

Affiliate links above support this blog

Conditions That Promote the Growth of Surface Hoar (And SnowVisa Giveaway!)

Yesterday I posed the question, “What are the conditions that promote the growth of Surface Hoar”. There were many correct answers. Let’s dive a little deeper into the conditions and take it beyond the level 1 understanding.

In my AIARE 1 avalanche courses I teach students to remember the three “C’s” that promote the growth of surface hoar.

Cold- Unsurprisingly it needs to be below freezing (32°F, 0ºC) for surface hoar to form.

Clear- The mechanisms that drive the growth of surface hoar require rapid radiative heat loss from the snowpack. This only occurs on clear nights. Cloud cover has an insulating effect on the earth and pretty much prevents the type of heat loss needed for this process to occur.

Calm- Surface hoar crystals, once formed, are vulnerable to moderate wind speeds. The ice forms have very little horizontal strength, and if you find a pocket of decent sized surface hoar you can test this easily by getting close to the crystals and giving them a hearty blow of air from your own lungs.

That is pretty much the level 1 type knowledge I instill in my students. Now let’s dive deeper into other important considerations that contribute to the snowpack’s ability to form surface hoar.

Humidity & Dewpoint– Basically surface hoar is winter’s equivalent of “dew”. There must be a high level of humidity (over 70%) in the air right at ground level.

Air movement– Since the crystal growth of surface hoar is removing vapor (moisture) from the air as it grows that moisture must be replaced for the crystals to keep growing. The air movement required is so light that an observer would record “calm” for wind speed.

Temperature Inversion/Gradient– A strong inverted temperature gradient is needed right at the snow surface. This gradient is best achieved by the rapid radiative heat loss scenario promoted by cold clear nights. Even a light breeze will remove this ground level inversion and inhibit growth.

Now that we’ve gotten the sciencey weather stuff out of the way let’s get into some practical terrain considerations for the topic.

Sheltered/Lee– Since we know any noticeable wind inhibits surface hoar growth we can expect to find it in areas protected from the wind, i.e. lee.

Canopy– Because surface hoar requires rapid radiative heat loss any tree canopy will inhibit growth. Surface hoar is often found in clearings that are not obstructed by any tree cover.

Aspect– It is reasonable to assume northern aspects may be more likely to grow surface hoar as they are colder aspects. In areas with predominant west winds (White Mountains) you may have more luck finding surface hoar on your North to East aspects.

Elevation– Since above treeline conditions rarely promote the growth of surface hoar this weak layer is more common below treeline, and in the right conditions middle elevations.

Slope Angle– Surface hoar has what is called “anisotropic” structure. What this basically means is it is strong on the vertical axis and very weak on the horizontal axis. This property is the main reason it is such a reactive weak layer when buried by new snow. Its ability to withstand gradual increases in load until it reaches its breaking point is why in certain snow climates it’s the primary issue for human triggered avalanches. It is also why you would not expect this in steeper start zones. In the rare case of this forming on a 40 degree start zone of an alpine gully any cohesive snow that falls on top of it will quickly overwhelm its horizontal strength. Field observations show this is a common layer for remotely triggering avalanches on flat terrain. Twenty five degree rollovers are also commonly triggered on surface hoar.

Slope Shape– Research shows that concave slopes inhibit growth. This is due to the reduced radiative heat loss on concave slopes. Conversely, convex slopes may see more progressive growth as they can accelerate rapid radiative heat loss and a stronger surface left temperature gradient. Yet another reason convexities on a slope are common trigger points.

Proximity to Water– Because the ground level humidity needs replenishment you can often find this growing next to creeks, streams, and steam “vents”. These “vents” are pretty cool, even on a negative temperature day if you stick your thermometer in one of them you’ll find the air temp hovering around freezing (32°F, 0ºC).

Snow Climate– The prior mentioned weather conditions are most common in Continental (Rocky Mountain) snow climates. Surface hoar can, and does, form in any snow climate, but it’s most prevalent in Continental snow climates.

Local Examples– I have found a few places in Mount Washington Valley that I consider “surface hoar farms”.

The most reliable spot I have found is just south of the trestle cut at the top of Crawford Notch where some sheltered steam vents on the west side of the tracks often have surface hoar crystals around them. Unfortunately the railroad is active this winter and no trespassing signs are posted so I don’t recommend heading there.

The field just outside the AMC Highland Center has had some brilliant surface hoar displays over the years through they are usually short lived as calm clear weather doesn’t last long at the top of the notch.

The base of the Cog Railway has small slopes that have produced some of the largest surface hoar crystals I have ever seen in person, some up to 4 centimeters in size!

I’ll often find small pockets on the sides of the Tuckerman Ravine Trail but the spot on the east side of Mount Washington I’ve had the most luck is on the Summer Lion Head trail, right as the trail steepens and crosses an old avalanche path there are a couple small steam vents on the left side that have a clear view of the sky (thanks to old avalanche activity).

Summary– Well that’s about it for my brain dump on surface hoar. Hope you’ve learned something new about what is likely my favorite type of ice formation. For more reading you can check out The Avalanche Handbook. It’s where most of my information is derived and a great resource for those who really want to dive into the minutiae of avalanche formation.

Snow Visa Giveaway

Snow Visa Sticker Avalanche Safety Avalanche Education

Learn more about this innovative snow safety tool here and enter to win one for free by clicking this link! Contest ends on at 8PM EST on 12/24/2023!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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Gear Review: Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody

I’ve been testing the new Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody since early October and after a half dozen trips into the alpine with it I’m ready to share my thoughts.

TLDR Version: This is an outstanding addition to the “light puffy” market and I’m stoked to have this in my current rotation of outdoor clothes.

How I Tested: Two ice climbing trips to Mount Willard, an ice climbing trip into Tuckerman Ravine, two Mount Washington attempts (one successful summit, one bail at Lion Head due to very poor visibility and extreme winds higher)

Before I get into my personal opinions on this jacket let’s look at the manufacturer description and specifications:

Manufacturer Description:

The perfect layer for backcountry rock walls, big alpine faces, and frigid weekend ski tours, the Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody is the ultimate in dynamic four-season insulation that breathes efficiently and stretches with your every movement. The jacket packed with migration-resistant Primaloft Gold Active, maintaining breathability during even the most intense high-output pursuits. The 20D nylon ripstop face fabric and stretch liner resists weather and encourages full range of motion, while remaining incredibly durable through rugged talus, brushy approaches and daily use. Additional features include an adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood, a low-profile, single-adjust hem and a highly packable design that stuffs into the internal stretch mesh pocket and clips onto your harness, all your needs are covered. Fit and overall design has been entirely overhauled for 2023.

PRODUCT FEATURES

  • Migration-resistant PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation
  • 20D nylon ripstop face fabric with PFC-free DWR Technology
  • Lightweight, stretch lining for added breathability
  • Mapped insulation throughout body, shoulders, and arms
  • Adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood with drawcord adjustment
  • Underarm gussets for added range of motion
  • Low-profile, single-adjust hem
  • Stows in internal left hand pocket with carabiner clip loop
  • Two concealed-zip hand pockets
  • Primary fabric is Bluesign approved
  • ECO Label Status
  • Fit: Regular
  • Claimed Weight: 14.29 ounces
Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon

Personal Opinions:

The “light puffy” has become a staple in my winter outdoor clothing scheme. My biggest requirements in a quality piece are; high warmth to weight ratio, high breathability, high packability, decent water resistance, wind proof, well fitting. The Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody checks all the boxes!

High Warmth to Weight Ratio: Black Diamond uses mapped PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation. Primaloft® Gold is one of the best synthetic insulators available with a CLO value of 0.92, which is roughly equivalent to the warmth of 500 or 550 fill-power down and achieves 98% thermal efficiency (and still retains heat if it gets wet, unlike down). The nylon shell fabric is lightweight and soft to the touch, allowing for the whole jacket to weight less than a pound. For a synthetic insulated hooded jacket this is quite impressive, so I give this a 5/5 in the warmth to weight ration category!

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review

High Breathability: The biggest test of the breathability of this jacket came yesterday as I was breaking trail in thigh deep new snow from tree line to the summit cone on Mount Washington. Temps were 6 degrees Fahrenheit (-14 Celcius), winds were around 40 mph (64 Kph), and the wind chill was about -23 Fahrenheit (-30 Celcius). The uphill battle was slow going and a bit exhausting. I needed more than my base layers and soft shell jacket to stay comfortable but I was working pretty hard. I pulled this on over my soft shell and kept working uphill thinking I’d likely start to overheat soon and need to take it off. That didn’t happen and I reached the summit with it still on. So it is definitely breathable. I didn’t take it off until I was back to tree line and out of the wind for the quick walk back to the trailhead.

High Packability: While similar down jackets can pack smaller I prefer the extra insurance of synthetic for my light puffy jackets and only have one big down parka these days that is always in my pack for the most arctic of trips. Despite being a synthetic hooded jacket I am impressed with the Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody ability to get small. Without much coaching it will pack into it’s own zipper right side hand pocket at takes up just a little more space then your standard wide mouth Nalgene water bottle.

Decent Water Resistance: Black Diamond uses pretty standard PFC-free DWR Technology to give this jacket some water resistance. I was only exposed to a little dripping water on a warmish ascent of Hitchcock Gully earlier this year and as expected any drops that hit me just rolled off the fabric. Since it is a synthetic and not down I’m less concerned about how water resistant a light synthetic puffy is as I will still pack a hardshell if there is a significant chance of liquid precipitation on my trip.

Wind Proof: 100% this jacket is indeed windproof as I tested it in those 40+mph conditions I mentioned above. All I can really add here is I am impressed with how windproof the jacket seems while being so breathable at the same time. Must be the 20 denier fabric that Black Diamond used for the shell fabric, it just strikes the right balance in this regard.

Well Fitting: Ok I kind of saved the best for last here. I love the way this jacket fits and movies. Black Diamond says it’s a “regular” fit and while that means it isn’t supposed to fit like your tapered skinny jeans I don’t find the fit to be too bulky at all either. For my 5’9″ 185 pound frame the large fits over my skin layers and soft shell jacket perfectly. The length is perfect for tucking in under my climbing harness, and the stretchy panels under the arms keep in tucked in while I’m ice climbing and raising my hands far above my head often. The insulated hood is comfortable and well fitting with or without a climbing helmet on thanks to the drawcord adjustment. The fit is somehow technical while casual as I’ve found myself grabbing this jacket for everyday where and not just saving it for mountain missions.

Summary: The synthetic light weight hooded jacket is one of my favorite categories of gear to test. You can find many of my reviews of this style of jacket over the years on my review page. If your “light puffy” is ready for replacement or upgrade, or you have yet to add the “light puffy” to your outdoor wardrobe, I highly suggest you check the Black Diamond First Light Hooded Jacket out!

Buy Directly from Black Diamond

Buy from Moosejaw.com

Buy from Backcountry.com

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above help support this blog. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional charge to you. Thank you.

Cyber Monday Guided Adventure & Education Sale

Today only, Monday, November 27th, 2023, you can book an adventure or course with Northeast Mountaineering and save some serious moo-lah! Basically if you book one of these adventures today you get to bring a friend for free! I’m going to share exactly what programs are eligible and what the out of pocket cost per person would be if you decide to split this adventure with your adventure buddy, starting with the absolute best deal of them all!

AIARE 1 Avalanche Course $550 ($275pp)

Avalanche Courses Mount Washington
Photo courtesy of Alexander Robert

This is by far the most affordable way this season to get this essential course for anyone looking to spend time in avalanche terrain touring, ice climbing, or mountaineering. It’s a three day course that covers a semester worth of information in a mix of class room and field sessions. This education hasn’t been this affordable since I took my first avalanche course two decades ago. Grab your touring partner and sign up for this today while we still have many dates available! Sign up here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM” to be able to bring your friend for free! Discount lodging at the NEM Bunkhouse is also available!

AIARE Avalanche Rescue Course $195 ($97.50pp)

Avalanche Courses Mount Washington
Buried to my waist in an avalanche I remotely triggered… this rescue went smoothly

This 8 hour course is for anyone who might venture into avalanche terrain. It is designed for anyone who has yet to take a formal avalanche course like the AIARE 1 mentioned above, anyone looking to take their AIARE 2 course listed below, or anyone who hasn’t refreshed their avalanche rescue skills in awhile. A little bit of classroom followed by a lot of in the field realistic avalanche rescue practice. Time and money well spent! We only have two dates open this season so don’t delay grabbing a spot for you and your partner here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”. Discount lodging at the NEM Bunkhouse is also available!

Ice Climbing $325 ($162.50pp)

Ice Climbing White Mountains
Author on Drool of the Beast (Grade 5), photo courtesy of Brent Doscher

Been curious about expanding your climbing season to the frozen months? Use this Cyber Monday deal to make it attainable! Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

Introduction to Backcountry Skiing $325 ($162.50pp)

Backcountry Skiing Mount Washington
Photo courtesy of Erik Howes

Are you an expert skier at the resorts and looking to take adventure to the next level? Our backcountry ski skills course is jammed packed with necessary skills to get your shredding the pow out of bounds and away from the lines. Skiing the backcountry is about freedom and adventure. Out here, you earn your turns – but as you will discover the uphill travel is just as rewarding as the downhill descent.

Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

Participants need to be competent skiing intermediate [blue] terrain at their local ski hill. The outdoor portion of this course may be held at Pinkham Notch or in Crawford Notch if condition allow it may also be held at one of the local ski hills with an uphill policy.

Backcountry Ski Touring $325 ($162.50pp)

Backcountry Skiing Mount Washington
Photo courtesy of Corey Fitzgerald

Already have your basic backcountry ski skills dialed and looking to expand your skill set? This course is designed to get you into more involved terrain like the more advanced Granite Backcountry Alliance glades and areas like Gulf of Slides, Tuckerman Ravine, Burt Ravine, etc.

Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

Ski Mountaineering $325 ($162.50pp)

This course is for the proficient backcountry tourer who wants to work on some more technical skills like snow anchors, roped/glacier movement, rappelling, and more to access the most difficult of ski terrain.

Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

One Day Mountaineering Skills Course $295 ($147.50pp)

If you’ve never worn mountaineering boots or practiced “self-arrest” with an ice axe this is the course for you. Learn the foundation of skills that will help you travel in the mountains during winter more safely and comfortably. This is an excellent course for those pursuing the winter 4000 footers!

Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue $325 ($162.50pp)

Crevasse Rescue Course
Photo courtesy of Northeast Mountaineering

Have some bigger mountains on your bucket list? You don’t need to travel out west to hone the skills needed to do so safely and efficiently. This course covers the rope skills used to manage risk on glaciers and includes learning about improvised hauling systems, mechanical rope ascension, and crevasse recognition and avoidance.

Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

Guided Mount Washington Climb $325 ($162.50pp)

Guided Winter Mount Washington

Ready to attempt the biggest peak in the northeast in winter? This summit attempt is more than just a climb of the peak. Along the way your guide will teach you about proper preparation, common cold weather injuries and prevention, avalanche awareness, navigation, and more. No prior winter hiking experience is necessary but good fitness is key. The one day Winter Mountaineering Skills course above is often booked before this course if you want to feel best prepared for the day!

Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

The Fine Print

There isn’t much! Just book at the direct links I provided today before midnight PST (3am Tuesday EST). Make sure you put “DAVIDNEM” in the promo code to receive the special deal. Booking through the website does not guarantee I will be your guide for the chosen adventure, though if I am available on that date I will be your assigned guide. You can reach out to me at the contact info below with your requested dates and I will get back to you by this evening. My winter season is pretty well booked so far but I do have some mid-week availability still.

This is the single biggest sale I have seen a guide service offer in recent years, so if you’ve been looking for a bargain on quality experiences and education, this… is… it!

CONTACT INFO: You can use the contact form at the bottom of this page to send me a message, or email me at nealpinestart@gmail.com, or message me through my Instagram

See you on the mountain,

Northeast Alpine Start

My Glove Game

outdoor gloves review

Every fall I do an inventory of my hand wear to be sure I’m ready for the upcoming backcountry touring, winter mountaineering, and waterfall ice climbing season. This year I figured I’d share my current collection and explain a bit about why I need 24 pairs of gloves/mittens. That’s right… 24 pairs!

Bike Gloves– I have two pairs, a fingerless pair for warm weather and a pair of full bike gloves for cooler riding.

Glove Liners– I wear glove liners on almost outdoor adventure. I make sure I have two pairs of serviceable glove liners year round. With all the sharp points related to ice climbing and mountaineering (and sharp ski edges) I expect to trash at least one pair of liners each year, so it’s good they are affordable! I was in need of a replacement pair this season so last week I picked up a pair of the Rab Merino 160 Glove Liners. This pair joins my Black Diamond Lightweight GridTech Liner Gloves and a pair of Ortovox 185 Rock’N’Wool Glove Liners to complete my glove liner inventory.

Technical Waterfall Ice Climbing Gloves– I prefer very dextrous perfectly fitting grippy gloves when leading waterfall ice. Handling ropes, placing ice screws, adjusting crampons… these tasks are more easily accomplished in specialized thin gloves. Currently I am rotating between the Outdoor Research Alibi 2 Gloves, the Black Diamond Torque Gloves, the RAB Infinium Axis Gloves, and the Ortovox Tour Light Gloves. To the surprise of many of my clients I actually wear one of the liners listed above under these snug fitting gloves. It improves the comfort especially with models like the Black Diamond Torque Gloves which can feel a little clammy without a liner.

Uphill Touring Gloves– For high output cold weather uphill skinning or hiking I prefer super breathable soft shell type gloves. My current favorite pair are the Camp USA G Comp Warm Gloves. What makes these so great is they have a built in insulated overmitt that is stored in a small pocket above the wrist. So they are super breathable and comfy on the up track and if you transition a little faster then the rest of your group you can hang out with the overmitts on to keep the tips of your fingers from going numb. I’m excited Ortovox has followed this design and I picked up a pair of Ortovox Tour Pro Cover Gloves for this season which join the couple pairs of Ortovox Tour Gloves I already have.

Downhill Touring Gloves– When it’s really cold and snowy out and you’re done burning calories on the ascent it’s time for the warm gloves to come out of the pack. I switch into these gloves for most descents, teaching avalanche courses about snowpack observations, practicing avalanche rescue skills, and occasionally snow blowing the driveway. I have two pairs of the surprisingly affordable Flylow Tough Guy Gloves. My fanciest pair of gloves are my Ortovox Merino Freeride Gloves. I also love the style and quality of the Wyoming based 4-Season Give’R Gloves. New to my inventory for this season is also a pair of the Ortovox Full Leather Gloves which fit and feel amazing!

Real Cold Ice Climbing & Mountaineering Gloves– For technical ice climbing and mountaineering on the coldest days I have two pairs of the Black Diamond Guide Gloves. As an emergency item and something I pack in my Search & Rescue pack I have some old thick fleece mittens and and old Goretex over mitts. I will likely update these with something like the Black Diamond Mercury Mitts soon. A stylish pair of toasty Give’R Leather Mittens rounds out my hand wear assortment.

Well that’s it for my current glove assortment. Do you have any of these? Any favorites of yours I should check out? Let me know in the comments!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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Tech Tip: Protection From Ticks

Protecting From Tick Borne Illness
Image from CDC.gov

In New Hampshire it is prudent to protect yourself from tick borne illness from April through November when recreating outdoors. There are five possible tick borne diseases that have been reported in the state:

Lyme disease <- most common reported tick borne illness and can have lasting effects even after treatment.

Anaplasmosis <- pretty sure I had this from a tick bite I got in southern MA a few years ago. Fever & chills but luckily a pretty mild disease that will often resolve on it’s own. My sickness only lasted 48 hours.

Babesiosis <- Babesiosis is a disease you get from the bite of a tick infected with the parasite Babesia. It causes flu-like symptoms and can lead to severe illness.

Powassan <- While rare reported cases are on the rise of this potentially fatal disease.

Borrelia miyamotoi <- Very similar to Lyme disease.

Step 1: Treat Your Clothing & Shoes

The single most effective defense against ticks is to purchase pretreated clothes or treat your clothing at home with Permethrin. This pesticide is intended to treat clothing and gear (hiking shoes) and is not for direct skin application. The directions indicate to spray your clothing while you are not wearing it and let it dry completely. Once the pesticide dries there is no toxic risk to humans and it doesn’t get absorbed into your skin even if you are sweating. The protection lasts for weeks and even after washing the clothes. I treat two pairs of pants and two sun hoodies, like this Florence Marine Sun Pro Stratus, at the beginning of bug season and the protection pretty much lasts through the hiking season. I also treat two pairs of hiking shoes. The effectiveness of this product is remarkable. When I am dressed in my treated clothes and wearing my treated shoes I can wade through a tick infested tall field of grass and come out tick free on the other side. If a tick is brave enough to try to crawl up my shoes and pants it will just die and fall off. Another bonus to this tactic is this pesticide is also effective at repelling black flies, gnats, and mosquitos, so when I where these treated clothes I can often skip applying any type of topical bug repellent which feels like an overall healthier choice. While the research shows there are no long term negative health effects it should be mentioned that before this pesticide dries it is very dangerous to cats. Neurologically something bad can happen if cats get exposed to this before it dries, so cat people be sure to treat your clothes far away from any felines!

Step 2: Carry a Topical Repellent

While I find Permethrin gives me the protection I need 95% of the time I still carry a small bottle of repellent for when the mosquitoes are fierce (often dusk or dawn). In my experience natural herbal repellents only last for mere minutes after application and require constant reapplication to have any effectiveness. That leaves me with only two other options that are effective, and I strongly prefer one over the other.

DEET– While I used this for years and can attest to its effectiveness I never liked applying this to my skin. The 100% formulas are so strong (and toxic) that they would keep working even after bathing. The chemical can literally melt through plastic and nylon making it a poor choice for backpackers, hikers, and climbers who often have gear made from these materials. If it’s all you have and you need protection I would use sparingly and according to directions. Luckily a relatively new option has come to market that I am a huge fan off…

Picardin– This repellent has been approved by the EPA since 2005 but I still find many outdoor enthusiasts have not learned about it’s effectiveness when compared to DEET. In my experience it is just as effective as DEET but with out all the concern around synthetic materials. It doesn’t melt through plastic and it doesn’t feel like it’s still on my skin after bathing. I carry a small bottle of it in my pack for times when either I’m not wearing my treated clothing or the mosquitos are just in full on feeding mode.

Step 3: Head Net

For less than two ounces and a few bucks I have a Sea to Summit Head Net stuffed away in my backpack for one more physical barrier between me and the biting things. This head net is pretreated with Permethrin. You can find all the clothes REI has that are pretreated with Permethrin at this link. You can find all the clothes at BACKCOUNTRY that are pretreated with Permethrin at this link.

Step 4: Tick Checks

Finally, the last thing you can do to protect yourself from tick borne illness is a quality “tick check” when you get back home from your adventure. The good news is it takes time for ticks to transmit disease after biting you. The CDC actually states it takes 36 to 48 hours for an attached tick to transmit Lyme. Some of the other diseases can transmit faster though so best practice is to do a tick check every night before bed if you’ve been out playing in the mountains. Ticks will often prefer attaching in hidden crevices and areas with hair. This means your tick check will be quite personal. A small mirror can help you check places you can’t easily see. If you find an attached tick don’t panic, they are usually not to hard to remove but you want to take care that you keep the tick whole. Pinch with fingernails or small tweezers at the very base of the tick and apply steady pulling pressure until it comes out. Wash the bite area with soap and water. If concerned that the tick was attached for more than 36 hours you could send it in to testing using this form.

Protecting From Tick Borne Illness
Image from CDC.gov

Summary

Unfortunately ticks and associates tick borne disease are on the rise. Hopefully some of the tips and suggestions I’ve shared above can help you create your own line of defense against these nasty little parasites.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Buy Insect Clothing from REI

Buy Permethrin from REI

Buy Insect Shield Clothing from Backcountry

Buy Permethrin on Amazon

Buy Picaridin on Amazon

Buy Insect Shield Clothing on Amazon

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Annual Holiday Gift Guide 2022

Around this time every year I share my own personally curated gifts for the outdoorsy people on your shopping list. These are items and brands that I personally endorse and they should all be a welcome gift for anyone who spends time in the mountains on your holiday shopping list! This year I’m only listing a half dozen ideas. I hope they help you find something for someone on your list!

Darn Tough Socks

I’ve been a Darn Tough sock fan for over a decade! Made in Vermont these are some of the best outdoor socks you’ll have in your drawer! With fun holiday patterns, quality craftmanship, and a Lifetime Guarantee you can’t go wrong with Darn Tough! This winter I got one pair for each of us! Check out the Holiday Collection HERE!

Friendly Foot Powder

Friendly Foot Shoe Deodorizer

Returning to my list every year is Friendly Foot Powder. Feet that spend a lot of time in rock climbing shoes, hiking and mountaineering boots, and ski boots, need some help keeping things from becoming odoriferous. This is an excellent stocking stuffer to keep your Darn Tough socks smelling good mile after mile!

Roll Recovery R8+ Deep Tissue Massage Roller

Post epic hike, climb, or ski self-care is important for recovery so you can get back out on the next adventure as soon as possible. After a knee injury last season my uninjured leg ended up having really tight quads, hamstrings, and calves as it over compensated for the injured leg. The R8+ Deep Tissue Massage Roller made it easy to stimulate blood flow and loosen tight muscles which I fully believe sped up my recovery. I now use this a couple days a week and think anyone who puts down a lot of miles in the mountains would love to find this under the tree!

MyMedic First Aid Kits

MyMedic First Aid Kits

A first aid kit is part of any outdoor persons gear list and our family has been using MyMedic kits every adventure and trip we go on. We have one in each of our cars, one I carry in my backpack while climbing, skiing, and hiking, and a large one we have at home. There are many models to choose from and some are currently up to 50% off with the Black Friday Sale!

Northeast Mountaineering Gift Certificates

There is something pretty unique about gifting someone an adventure and there’s no easier way than a gift certificate to Northeast Mountaineering! Available in multiple denomonations these can be used on any of the adventures Northeast Mountaineering offers from guided hikes, rock climbing and ice climbing instruction, waterfall rappelling, guided backcountry ski trips, and even avalanche courses!

Garmin InReach Mini

A gift that allows your adventurous friends and family stay in touch even when outside of cell phone reception. As an educator I will always promote preparedness and turning around in poor weather but there is no question Personal Locator Beacons like the Garmin inReach Mini 2 save lives!

Buy from Moosejaw

Buy from REI

The winter guiding season is here and it’s about to get super busy around my house! I may add a few more items here as I find the time. Have a gift idea for those who play in the mountains? Leave it in the comments and have a great, safe, Holiday Season!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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Gear Review: KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL™ Men’s Hoody

KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL™ Men's Hoody Review

I think most people who follow me know I have a thing for “sun-hoodies”. They are literally my favorite type of active outdoor clothing and I’ve had the opportunity to review quite a few different brands. When I saw the KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL™ Men’s Hoody I immediately placed an order. For those who are not aware of what a “sun-hoody” is it’s basically the best thing to happen to outdoor clothing since the use of synthetics! It is by far the BEST protection from both sun/UV and the incoming mosquito/black fly season! Every outdoors-person should own at least one (I won’t disclose how many I currently have in my gear closet).

Let’s start with…

Manufacturer Description:

Incredibly soft with superior moisture management and breathability, KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL Men’s Hoody displays excellent abrasion and snag resistance for increased durability. Maximum sun protection (UPF 50+) paired with odor resistant properties keep you fresh and confident throughout the day.

KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL™ Men's Hoody Review
I also have one in this “Sea Breeze” color! Photo from Kuhl.com

ADVANCED FABRICS

  • Fabric: 85% Ultra-soft premium Polyester 15% Spandex | 147 GSM

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

  • Machine wash cold
  • Do not bleach
  • Tumble dry low

DIFFERENT BY DESIGN

  • Saddle-stitched seams for less bulk
  • Elastic binding at hood opening and sleeves
  • Five-panel hood constructed to lay flat without bulk when not in use
  • Featuring the original thumb loop

DIFFERENT BY CONSTRUCTION

  • High moisture-wicking
  • Open-air construction for advanced breathability
  • Odor-resistant infused fabric keeps you fresh longer so you can wash less and wear more
  • Abrasion-resistant/snag-resistant
  • UPF 50+ sun protection

Performance

KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL™ Men's Hoody Review

Sun-hoodie season is from the end of April to the late September so I spend a lot of days wearing one of these! I can tell from the weight of the fabric KÜHL has found a great balance in lightweight comfort and durability. I’ve worn mine for about 20 days so far this season without washing so I can attest to the “odor-resistant” technology. My wife would let me know right? The weave is somehow a bit tighter than other models which reduces snagging but is still super soft and breathable. Using the size chart I went for a size large and it fits great, just slightly snug in the forearms.

Summary

If you have already joined the sun-hoodie movement then you already know how great these are! KÜHL has joined a few other top-of-the-line companies in producing a seriously excellent sun-hoodie and this one is available and in-stock in 4 different colors (I’m really partial to the two lighter colors, Sea Breeze and Cloud Gray). A slightly different model is offered in womens, the KÜHL ENGINEERED HOODY. A great addition to any outdoor wardrobe made by an ethical company! A couple more KUHL reviews will be coming soon!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: The author purchased this item with his own money. Affiliate links help support this blog! Thank you.

Deal Alert: VSSL First Aid Sale (ends 3/28)

In preparation for the Spring hiking, camping, road-tripping season VSSL is offering 20% off it’s two available First Aid models, the regular and the mini! The sale ends on Monday, March 28th so if you need a solid first aid kit for your pack, car, or kayak you should take a look here! I originally reviewed in detail the VSSL Survival Model all the way back in 2015! If you’re interested in that review you can check it out here!

VSSL First Aid Kits
Photo from VSSL

See you in the Mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start