Whitehorse Ledge and Self-Rescue

I spent the last two days with Katie and Chris, a couple from Mass who are quickly becoming more and more proficient in their climbing. Earlier this summer we spent a day together working on building quality top-rope anchors so that they could hit their local MA crags in style and this weekend they returned … Continue reading Whitehorse Ledge and Self-Rescue

Rumney, Whitney-Gilman, Pinnacle!

I hope everyone is out there enjoying the best rock climbing weather of the year! Yesterday I finished three solid days of guiding for Northeast Mountaineering starting with a fun Friday at Rumney Rocks with Jennifer. Rumney Rocks Jennifer used to rock and ice climb all over the west before moving East and focusing on … Continue reading Rumney, Whitney-Gilman, Pinnacle!

Improved Belay Check

A tragic rock climber fatality this past weekend at a crag in Vermont has motivated this post. The exact events leading up to the accident are still not public but what is clear is the young woman fell 90 feet while trying to descend, presumably while being lowered. UPDATE 9/22/2017: An official summary of the … Continue reading Improved Belay Check

Part 3: Disappointment Cleaver, Mount Rainier

Part 3 of this three part Cascade climbing series will cover climbing the Disappointment Cleaver Route on Mount Rainier. Part 3: The Disappointment Cleaver, Mount Rainier Part 1: Fisher Chimney’s, Mount Shuksan Part 2: The West Ridge, Forbidden Peak Part 3: Disappointment Cleaver, Mount Rainier Getting There/Lodging To finish off our hat trick of Cascade … Continue reading Part 3: Disappointment Cleaver, Mount Rainier

Gear Review- Mountain Tools Slipstream Pack

I've been hoping to test a Mountain Tools pack for a couple of years now and early this summer I finally got my hands on one of this California companies new models, the ultra-light sleek and streamlined Mountain Tools Slipstream Pack. After multiple cragging days on Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges, some fast & light missions … Continue reading Gear Review- Mountain Tools Slipstream Pack

16 pitches on Cathedral Ledge!

Yesterday I met Antonio from Madrid, Spain at the Northeast Mountaineering Bunkhouse close to Jackson, NH. Antonio had decades of climbing experience from Yosemite to the Andes & Alps and was super excited to sample some of the granite climbing of New Hampshire. The weather forecast called for rain by 2pm so we wasted no … Continue reading 16 pitches on Cathedral Ledge!

Mountain Guide Manual Clinic

Since my copy arrived this past May I've been steadily devouring the massive amount of information contained in Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppolillo's recently published book, The Mountain Guide Manual: The Comprehensive Reference- From Belaying to Rope Systems and Self-Rescue. This past Wednesday I attended one of Marc Chauvin's Mountain Guide Manual Clinic's; the first of three … Continue reading Mountain Guide Manual Clinic