Proper hydration is fundamental to safety and performance in the outdoors. Whether you’re hiking, climbing, or conducting a Search and Rescue (SAR) mission, fluid balance directly impacts your endurance, decision-making, and recovery.
According to the U.S. National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine, the recommended daily fluid intake is:
Men: approximately 15.5 cups (3.7 liters / 124 ounces)
Women: approximately 11.5 cups (2.7 liters / 92 ounces)
During moderate physical activity—such as hiking—you’ll need an additional 0.5 to 1 liter (16–32 ounces) of water per hour to maintain hydration. For a six-hour hike, that means 3 to 6 liters (100–200 ounces) of water.
For Search and Rescue personnel, physical demands are often greater, especially when carrying a litter or heavy gear. In these situations, water needs can increase even further. However, carrying more than 3 liters is often impractical, so season-specific strategies become essential.
The Sawyer Mini is compact, lightweight, and compatible with most standard threaded 1/4″ water bottles—ideal for both outdoor recreation and Everyday Carry (EDC) setups. This system provides flexibility and ensures I always have access to safe drinking water, even on extended operations.
Fall and Winter Hydration Strategy
Cold-weather hydration presents unique challenges. Even insulated hydration bladders are prone to freezing in the tubing and mouthpiece, which can quickly cut off your water supply. After experiencing this issue firsthand, I now avoid hydration bladders entirely in below-freezing temperatures.
This setup ensures reliable access to water in any conditions and allows for hot meals or morale-boosting drinks, which are invaluable in cold or high-stress environments.
Hydration and Nutritional Supplements
Maintaining hydration isn’t just about water—it’s also about electrolyte balance and nutritional support.
Throughout the year, I carry Tailwind Nutrition hydration supplements to replenish electrolytes and sustain energy. During cold-weather operations, I add Borvo Broth, which provides warmth, electrolytes, and an energy boost when fatigue or chill set in.
Both products have strong scientific backing, but more importantly, they have proven effective in real-world SAR and backcountry conditions.
Best Practices for Outdoor Hydration
To optimize hydration in the field:
Plan ahead. Estimate water needs based on duration, intensity, and temperature.
Adapt seasonally. Choose hydration systems and strategies suited to current conditions.
Use filtration. Carry a compact, reliable water filter for resupply in the field.
Monitor intake. Thirst is a late indicator—drink regularly to maintain performance.
Supplement smartly. Include electrolytes or nutrient-rich drinks to sustain energy and prevent cramps.
Conclusion
Water is life—and in the outdoors, hydration is performance. Whether you’re a recreational hiker or a professional Search and Rescue operator, having a thoughtful, adaptable hydration plan is critical for success and safety.
By tailoring your strategy to the environment and equipping yourself with the right tools, you can stay hydrated, alert, and mission-ready in any conditions.
Stay safe, stay hydrated, and I’ll see you in the mountains. — Northeast Alpine Start
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Every outdoor adventure gear list includes a first aid kit. However, possessing first aid supplies is far less important than having some level of first aid knowledge. Most search and rescue organizations either require or highly encourage their members to obtain a Wilderness First Aid (WFA) certification. Those seeking greater confidence in their ability to treat common injuries and illnesses in the backcountry should aim for a Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certification. Advanced SAR teams may also include Wilderness EMTs or AEMTs, along with ER nurses or physicians.
These courses are offered by a few organizations all over the country. If you are located in the Northeastern US I highly recommend taking one of these courses at SOLO in Conway, New Hampshire. Not only does SOLO have some of the best instructors in the outdoor emergency treatment field their campus, classrooms, and “Toad Hall” lodging have a very warm and welcoming vibe.
Image from soloschools.com
Patient care is generally the responsibility of the highest-trained team member present. But everyone starts with little or no training, and progresses from there. Before purchasing or assembling a first aid kit, I strongly recommend obtaining proper training. Not only does training clarify what should be in your kit, but it also prepares you for real emergencies. Fortunately, there are many avenues for affordable or even free first aid training options.
In the outdoor and rescue communities, CPR certification from the American Red Cross or the American Heart Association is emphasized. While CPR is often included in WFA or Wilderness First Responder courses, it can also be taken as a standalone course. That said, I believe practicing bleeding control should be prioritized more highly. In outdoor settings—and even during everyday life—the likelihood of encountering a medical emergency requiring effective bleeding management far exceeds the need for CPR skills. Car accidents, workplace incidents, household mishaps, and firearm-related injuries all demand swift, decisive action to improve outcomes.
To that end, I highly recommend completing the free online Stop The Bleed course offered by the American College of Surgeons. It takes less than an hour, and while online-only training lacks hands-on practice, the knowledge gained provides a solid foundation. After completing this program or an equivalent, the next step is to add a quality tourniquet to your everyday carry (EDC). A tourniquet is your best chance at stopping life-threatening bleeding before the patient can reach advanced medical care. Keep one in each vehicle, as car accidents frequently cause injuries requiring tourniquet application. If you work with firearms—whether in law enforcement, hunting, or self-defense—it’s wise to carry a tourniquet on your person at all times.
Be cautious of cheap tourniquets sold on Amazon; I’ve heard too many stories of handles breaking during application. I recommend the CAT Gen 7 Tourniquet by North American Rescue, which I keep in my range bag, vehicles, rescue pack, and emergency sling pack. I also carry the RATS Tourniquet, especially useful for small children, as it reportedly performs better on them.
Once you’ve completed the Stop The Bleed course, explore other free online first aid trainings through a simple Google search. Ideally, you’ll find time to attend in-person Wilderness First Aid or Wilderness First Responder courses, which offer invaluable hands-on experience and help you fine-tune your kit. While some prefer to assemble their first aid kits from scratch for cost savings, I recommend starting with a high-quality commercial kit and supplementing it with additional supplies. Two reputable brands I’ve used are Adventure Medical Kits and My Medic.
You can also learn by following some medical related Instagram/YouTube channels. I recommend following North American Rescue and Medical Talks on Instagram. <- Graphic Sensitive Content Warning! Both these account show graphic injuries quite often.
Summary: While a small first aid kit suffices for recreational hikes, SAR team members often respond to injuries or accidents requiring more advanced supplies and skills. As such, your kit should be more comprehensive than a typical hiking first aid kit. I hope this guidance helps you acquire the training and equipment necessary to treat minor injuries effectively and, in critical situations, potentially save a life.**
Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue
Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:
While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.
Comments? Questions?
Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to first aid kits or training or my suggestions.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: The author is not a doctor and this post is not intended to provide medical advice. The opinions above come from the author’s experience as a Wilderness First Responder and Search & Rescue Team member. Seek proper instruction from qualified trainers. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of these links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!
In my last post I shared my opinions on why carrying a physical mirrored compass while hiking is still relevant. Physical compasses are important in both outdoor recreation and professional SAR despite modern smartphone technology. In this post will show my preference for digital mapping over physical maps.
There are some disclaimers and caveats to get out of the way here. Relying on only a cell phone app with no foundation of true navigational skills with traditional map & compass is really a gamble. At some point your cell phone battery will die. It will be too cold for your cell phone to function. You’ll drop your phone in a raging current or deep powder snow and have to go without. I’ll say it one more time…
DO NOT rely on smartphone navigation as your ONLY source of navigation.
But can it be your primary source of navigation? Heck yeah! It’s been 10 years since I wrote this article, Should you use a Smartphone for Wilderness Navigation? in which I make a strong case for the use of smartphone apps for navigation.
Ten years later I still stand behind my arguments in this opinion piece. Even better smartphone batteries have made large advancements in how much juice they can store. Digital displays have improved in resolution, brightness, and color. When I first wrote that piece I was using the iPhone 6 model! Today my iPhone 13 Pro is my main digital navigation tool with some apps I will get into below.
I still do not own a stand alone GPS unit. However, they still have a place in the outdoor recreation and rescue industry. They have a few advantages of smartphone GPS apps for navigation.
Much more durable. Quality handheld GPS units are typically waterproof to at least 30 feet. They can withstand significant impacts that would destroy a smartphone.
Much longer battery life. Most models can run full tracking for over 150 hours without being recharged.
The best models can double as a two-way satellite communication device. This point is less important if your smartphone has satellite communication ability as well.
I would invest in a standalone GPS device if I often embarked on extended trips (a week or longer). This device would serve as a backup communication device in remote parts of the world. After looking at the current market of these devices, I would lean toward the Garmin GPSMap67i. It is a well-reviewed high-end choice in the field of GPS navigation devices with satellite communication feature.
You can rely on your smartphone for navigation like I do. You can find success if you follow a few key tenets. Here are my 8 commandments.
Thou shalt use a proper mapping navigation app (NOT AllTrails).
Thou shall pre-download maps and topographical data while connected to a WIFI or Data network. Do this before leaving civilization.
Thou shall start the hike with a smartphone charged to 100% when you leave the trail head
Thou shall close all unneeded apps. Turn off WiFi and Bluetooth manually. Turn on Airplane Mode. Turn down screen brightness to the lowest usable level.
Thou shall keep your smartphone warm.
Thou shall carry battery backup on extended trips.
Thou shall use Bluetooth headphones if one must listen to music
Thou shall still be capable of navigating should thou smartphone unexpectedly stop working
For more than ten years I’ve been using CalTopo.com on my laptop to create custom maps for both recreational hiking, guiding, and search and rescue missions. I then download the created geospatial PDF’s into the free Avenza app for off-grid use in the field. CalTopo does have an excellent app that you can use. However, I still find it more efficient to create the detailed maps I want on a laptop or desktop platform. It is easier than doing it on a smartphone app.
Geospatial PDF created on CalTopo.com of a fictional Search & Rescue Mission
One of the coolest newer features of the CalTopo software is the ability for SAR teams to enable live tracking. Any group who purchases a “Teams” account can do this for everyone on the team. This feature can allow team members and rescue commanders to see real time locations of members of the search team. Members must be connected to the network by either cellular data. Alternatively, they can link a GPS device like the Garmin inReach Mini 2. This is a powerful tool that rescue commanders can use to track dozens of search teams over large geographic areas!
Image from CalTopo.com
Other apps worth looking at are MilGPS, Gaia GPS, PeakFinder, and Theodolite. I will do a more detailed breakdown of these apps in a future post.
MilGPS app
MilGPS app
Smartphone apps are complex. They could be using a lot of power in the background. The safe bet is just to close all apps you are not using. I pretty much only have Avenza/CalTopo, Strava, and the Camera app occasionally running during my trips.
Peak Finder app
While Airplane mode should turn off WiFi and Bluetooth, these can both be turned back on while in Airplane mode. I think it is best to turn them both off individually. This way, if you come out of Airplane mode to make an emergency call, you don’t accidentally leave WiFi on. You don’t accidentally leave Bluetooth running. This also applies to an “I’m running late” call when you don’t need those connections.
Screen brightness probably has a smaller effect on battery life but every bit can help.
Cold can drain cell phone batteries even if the phone is powered down. Do not carry your smartphone in the top pocket of your backpack in cold conditions. I prefer a hip pocket or chest pocket for winter conditions.
If I’m expected to be out for more than 48 hours, I will pack a backup charger. I prefer options like the Anker Portable 325 PowerBank. There are dozens of other options out there but I would look for store at least 20000mAh of juice!
If you need to listen to music or podcasts while hiking, Bluetooth headphones are a great choice. They will save your phone a lot of battery. This is especially true compared to using the smartphone’s external speakers. The same applies if you’re sleeping in a tent during windy conditions or in a crowded, snoring bunkhouse.
Having a backup paper map is easy insurance against a smartphone failure. I will be honest and say I do not always carry a paper back up with me. I justify this by being very diligent with conserving my battery life. I keep my phone warm in cold environments. I also keep it secure in either a zippered pocket. In a more vertical environment, I tether it to my body with a retractable lanyard.
If you have access to a quality color printer you can print very detailed custom maps directly from CalTopo. If I have the time, I often send the Geospatial PDF’s I’ve created to the local UPS Store. Sometimes, I send them to Staples for laminated color copies. For a SAR mission that is likely short, I rarely carry a detailed paper map. These missions usually conclude in less than 24 hours. I will have the regional AMC White Mountain National Forest Maps for the area I will be in. This way, I can perform resection from any vantage points along my route. I will do this if my digital tools are failing.
Get Skilled
There are some great, and not so great, books on navigation you can learn from. A couple of my favorites:
If you would like to work with me directly, I have a custom 8-hour Wilderness Navigation Course. This course covers everything from Survival/Improvised Navigation to creating detailed “White-Out” navigation plans. It also includes using modern smartphone apps. It’s a couple hours of morning classroom followed by real life field practice of all skills. Reach out if you’d like to learn more!
Summary
This topic is slightly controversial. Almost any hiking authority will urge you to carry a paper map at all times. I’m not arguing against that. From a search and rescue team member’s experience, I think back on the dozens of missions I’ve been involved in. I struggle to recall pulling out my paper map at any point during a search. I always have very detailed pre-downloaded topographic data in a smartphone. I carefully conserve power and keep a backup. This combination has always gotten me to my next checkpoint. I continue practicing following a compass bearing through thick woods to a target. I do this because I want that skill to stay sharp and support the existing technology I’ve decided to embrace. I hope sharing this mindset with you encourages you to evaluate your own capabilities.
Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue
Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:
While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.
Comments? Questions?
Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to digital navigation, maps, or my suggestions. Let me know what your favorite mapping app is! Do you feel competent with digital mapping navigation?
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting on of these links the author earns a small commission on no additional cost to you. Thank you!
Disclaimer: The Reepschnur Rappel is an advanced climbing technique. Like all technical climbing techniques, misunderstanding or misapplication can lead to serious bodily injury or death. Seek qualified in-person instruction on this technique from an AMGA certified guide or a seasoned and vetted mentor. You take all responsibility in attempting any climbing technique you learn from the internet.
Last week my partner Foster and I found ourselves at the top of the second pitch of the classic Wanderlust route on Humprey’s Ledge, North Conway NH. We were climbing with a single 70 meter Mammut Alpine Dry Climbing Rope.
Comments on Mountain Project indicated a 70m double rappel would just barely reach the ground. I chose instead to conduct a Reepschur Rappel. I had read about this technique in a couple of different climbing texts. I felt it would be a good choice for the situation we were in. In fact if you are not sure your ropes will reach the next anchor or the ground this is a great method to understand.
To begin, I tethered into the anchor. This allowed me to untie from my rope end. Then I fed a little more than half the rope through the fixed anchor rings. I then lowered Foster directly from the anchor with a Munter hitch and a third hand friction hitch backup. There are many ways you could lower your partner like a redirected plate. The advantage of lowering your partner is clear. You can measure accurately how far you need to go to reach the next anchor. In our case, it meant reaching the ground. The middle mark of the rope passed through my lowering system. It traveled about 20 feet down the cliff. Then Foster reached the ground.
At this point, I tied an overhand on a bight on the brake side of the lowering system. I then clipped it with a locking carabiner to the strand I had lowered Foster on. This essentially creates what some folks call a “GriGri Rappel.” You can now conduct a single strand rappel on this strand with any appropriate device. A blocked “GriGri rappel” is pretty simple. The challenge is how to recover your rope when the “pull” side does not reach the ground.
The solution here is pretty simple. When you reach the end of the “pull” side of the rope, attach enough material to it. This way, you can finish your rappel and still have a connection to the pull side for rope recovery. What you attach to this side can be anything. You could untie a 20 foot cordelette. This is especially true if your joining knot is a Flat Overhand Bend. You could chain all of your quick-draws together. You could literally use shoelaces if you needed to. Use whatever you need to finish your single strand blocked rappel and still have a connection to the “pull” side. Once you are secure, either at the next anchor or the ground, you can pull your chain of connection. This will allow you to recover your rope.
This technique really opens up the potential of climbing with “pull cords” which can be insanely light and pack-able. The Petzl Purline is an industry favorite. It is ideal if the climbing party only wants to carry one fully rated dynamic climbing rope. Climbers can still conduct full rope length rappels.
Dangers!
If you unintentionally install your device on the pull side of this blocked rappel it would end in tragedy. Be paranoid of this error and don’t make it!
If your rope gets stuck while pulling your pull cord, you likely won’t have any rated climbing rope. This means that you can’t “lead back up.” You can’t fix the problem like you would in a more traditional double rope rappel system.
Skinny pull cords can be hard to grasp and pull especially if there is a lot of friction above. I fondly remember trying to rappel with a pull cord. It was 60 meters of 5mm accessory cord on Cathedral Ledge. This was almost two decades ago. We read about the technique in “Climbing Magazine.” In moderate winds, our pull cord wrapped itself around our main climbing line dozens of times. We got down with only mild hypothermia. We had to build an improvised 9:1 haul system to actually pull the rope down.
With those considerations and warnings in mind the Reepschnur rappel likely deserves more awareness in the recreational climber’s repertoire. Like many advanced climbing techniques, we usually learn about them directly from a certified climbing guide. Alternatively, books like the Mountain Guide Manual, published with advanced users in mind also give this information. This post aims to introduce this valuable technique to a broader audience. I sincerely hope that the audience heeds the warnings of nuanced application.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of these links the author earns a small commission on no additional cost to you. Thank you!
I first learned of the “Backside of the Clove Hitch” in 2017 while reading The Mountain Guide Manual and soon after attended a clinic on its use given by Marc Chauvin, one of the authors of this impressive tome of knowledge. Adding this tool to your repertoire will give you more options and problem solving capacity while climbing, especially during transitions. From my experience while many guides use this tool it has been slower to catch on in the greater recreational climbing circles. This post hopes to bring more general awareness of this useful technique.
While the most common way to use this technique is to transition from climbing to rappelling it actually can be quite efficient in reverse. Last week my climbing partner and I rappelled down to a semi-hanging belay stance where we needed to pull the rope, then lead back out to the top of the cliff. There are a few ways to do this but utilizing the backside of the clove hitch technique had some real advantages.
One of the biggest advantages with this and the associated “Backside Rappel Feed” is that one of the two climbers can always stay tied in to one end of the rope. This ensures that the party will never drop their rope, and if a middle mark is at the anchor it eliminates the need for a “stopper” knot in the other free end of the rope. The free end will be less likely to get caught somewhere with out a stopper knot, and there is no need to remember to remove the stopper knot.
While the middle mark and being tied in to one end will prevent the potential for rappelling off the end of your rope, pre-rigging the second person to rappel will add even another layer of redundancy. In the avoidable instance where your middle mark is incorrect and you manage to rappel off the free end of your rope, with a pre-rigged partner at the anchor, you will essentially have just gone from a double strand rappel to a single strand rappel. Disaster avoided, but let’s make sure correct middle marks are used instead ok?
In its simplest form, the backside of the clove hitch technique is just using the climbing rope from “behind” the first climber’s clove hitch as a full strength completely adjustable tether. You would do the same thing with a simple overhand on a bight on that strand but the clove hitch allows you to custom the length of the attachment often leading to a more comfortable stance. I can recall many cramped rappel stations where had I known about this technique I would have quickly and easily secured my climbing partner a few feet away from me so we would not be uncomfortably on top of each other at the station.
One very important difference between using the backside of the clove hitch and the more traditional individual “tether” climbers often use is the security of the second climber relies on both clove hitches. The second climber needs to be secured by a different manner before the first climber removes their clove hitch. In the more common situation of transitioning to rappel this is simply done by the second climber pre-rigging themselves on rappel above the first climbers rappel device. Once both climbers are rigged to rappel and checks have been made, all clove hitches can be removed and the first climber can start rappelling (staying tied in on the harness to one of the rope ends).
The steps we took in the below video were intentional since we new that Bob would be leading the pitch and I was familiar with the rappel to get us on route. The most logical option in this situation was for us to set up a pretty standard single rope double strand retrievable rappel, but I would tie in with a retraced figure of eight to one end of the climbing rope and rappel first. The other free end of the rope did not need a stopper knot which reduces the chance of snags (or forgetting to remove it before pulling the rope).
I rappelled down to the belay station, built a quick anchor, and clove hitched myself to the anchor with the climbing rope. After I came off rappel and signaled to Bob he could start descending I tied another clove hitch on the strand “behind” by clove hitch and had a locking carabiner all ready to go to Bob’s belay loop when he arrived. Once he was clipped into that locker he could take himself off rappel, we could pull the free unknotted end of the rope through the top rappel anchor, stacking our rope as we pulled, and when we had the free end in hand Bob only needed to tie-in and get ready to start leading out from our station.
Summary
In recreational climbing it is beneficial to do more with less. A lot of climbers, myself included, use tools like the Petzl Connect Adjust or a sling to tether into the an anchor during a transition. Using the backside of your clove hitch to quicky create a super strong and fully adjustable tether for your parter is a solid skill to have in your tool kit. I hope this post has clearly explained the process and demonstrated some of the benefits of the technique. If you have any questions please share them below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Get 10% off Rocky Talkies with promo code “AlpineStart10”!
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links will earn the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
Disclaimer: Some of the techniques discussed in this post require advanced knowledge of technical rope systems in a vertical environment. Subtleties and nuances abound. Seek qualified instruction from an AMGA certified guide or experienced mentor. Climbing is inherently dangerous, you do so at your own risk. Affiliate links below support this blog.
Using a Petzl Nano Traxion Progress Capture Device to belay my second on low fifth class slab terrain.
For over a year I have caught a few social media posts of highly certified guides belaying their clients non-traditionally with a Progress Capture Device or “PCD”. This technique has crept into the recreational climbers tool kit and for good reason, it has some real real advantages over belaying with a more traditional plaquette (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) or the common Assisted Braking Devices “ABDs” the Petzl Gri Gri 2, Petzl Gri Gri+, the new Petzl Neox.
Choosing to belay with a PCD should be an informed and conscious decision and I hope this post will give you some of the information you should consider when making that decision. The biggest piece of this puzzle simply comes down to appropriate terrain.
Terrain– This technique is most suitable of belaying a second in 4th and easy 5th class terrain where the probability of a fall is low and the climber is moving at a higher rate of speed. Basically if the second isn’t moving faster then 1 meter a second (3 feet a second) you likely should belay with a more traditional method like a plaquette or ABD.
This low 5th class slab climbing terrain is one example of where belaying with a PCD might be a good choice
Manage Slack– It is imperative with any “toothed” PCD to have minimal slack in the system as the second is climbing. This should be manageable given the lack of resistance when pulling rope, especially through the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Micro Traxion. All three of the PCDs I link below have technical documentation that indicate a load over 4kN or more will lead to sheath damage. If slack is removed while the second climbs, especially towards the end of the pitch when there is less dynamic rope in the system, it should be easy to avoid a 4kN load on the PCD.
Image from Petzl.com
Have Improvised Rescue Skills– This point is well illustrated by the amount of climbers who use plaquette style devices (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) but have yet to practice lowering from a loaded device. As mentioned earlier using a PCD to belay a second should be in terrain where a fall or lower is not expected. If either of those two things could be needed I would likely choose a different belay technique, however, unexpected does happen. If you are experienced enough to belay your second with a PCD you should have a solid understanding of release-able load transfers. You should have the skills to swap a loaded PCD with something that would allow a smooth lower (Munter Hitch, LSD, Gri Gri, etc). Making this transition safely and smoothly is something best learned from a qualified guide or instructor. (These skills are covered and practiced in my custom Self Rescue Course, send a message if interested in that curriculum).
* Compatible with the PUR’LINE 6 MM cord only for hauling a pack
* Compatible with the RAD LINE 6 MM cord (more information in the Instructions for Use at http://www.petzl.com)
The Petzl Tibloc is obviously the lightest and most affordable of the three Petzl PCDs I’m comparing here. It is well established as an excellent ultralight weight device for glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and improvised rescue. The addition of the spring loaded mechanism to initiate capture on the newest model of the Petzl Tibloc means it can work as a belay for a second, however, the lack of a pulley means you will feel noticeable more resistance when pulling slack through the system. For this reason alone I think it is worth considering one of the other two options from Petzl, especially now that there is a choice that weights only 16 grams more. Additionally, care needs to be used when installing the Petzl Tibloc to insure the rope passes through the locking carabiner and not just the device!
Image from Petzl.com
The Petzl Nano Traxion, while costing twice as much as the Petzl Tibloc, has a lot going for it. First, it incorporates a highly efficient (91%) pulley, which makes pulling in slack, regardless of diameter, quite effortless. At only 53 grams it is the lightest PCD + Pulley I have ever tested. Paired with a Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner and a home tied keeper cord this set up has become the newest edition to the back gear loop on my harness.
Image from Petzl.com
The Petzl Micro Traxion is the most expensive and heaviest of these options. The only real advantage of this model is the added mechanism that allows you to lock the cam in the open position so you can use the device as a simple pulley. It’s a pretty small addition to justify the additional cost and weight over the Petzl Nano Traxion.
Context matters. Here I am belaying two fast moving seconds on a YDS 5.1 180 foot long slab pitch. This set up allowed me to keep up with both of them as they climbed the pitch in under 3 minutes.
Compatible Carabiners
My favorite carabiner for all three of these PCDs is the Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner. This small lightweight locking carabiner features a red indicator that aids in visually confirming if it is locked or not and a small hole for attaching a keeper cord to any of these devices. I’m also a fan of the Petzl OK Triact Auto Locking Carabiner and the Petzl OK Ball-Lock Carabiner especially when matched with the Petzl Tibloc.
Deal Alert
Pretty much every product I have linked to in this post is 25% off right now at Backcountry. If you do decide to purchase anything based off the information in this post I really appreciate you using those links. Your support will keep this content coming!
Summary
Climbing techniques continue to evolve with advances in methodology often happening at the highest levels of the sport (certified climbing guides and accredited organizations) and then disseminate to the more general practioners. Belaying with a PCD can lead to efficiency and increased safety in certain climbing situations. Keep in mind the choice should be well informed and consider; terrain, managed slack, and your ability to problem solve unlikely scenarios like needing to transition to an unexpected lower. If you do find yourself in situations where this technique would work for you consider adding the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner to your kit. After 1400 feet of moderate slab climbing this past weekend with two of my friends my elbows were quite happy I was familiar with this option!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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Leave a long enough tail on your tag line attachment so that you can thread the fixed rappel station and connect your ropes before you disconnect from the tag line and undo what ever knot you used to tag the line. Zero chance of dropping your tag line is a good thing!
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The Redirected Clip-Back Lower provides a smooth lower and the rope will stay twist free if you keep the rope running inline with the belay device. This method works with any tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Verso. Don’t forget to add a third hand friction knot on off your belay loop to the brake strand and close your system!
First install the rope onto your tube style belay device as if you were about to belay your partner from your harness. Instead of attaching the belay carabiner to your belay loop, attach it to the master point of your anchor.
Redirect the brake strand through the same locking carabiner so that the brake strand is coming out of the carabiner on the same side as the load strand.
Before lowering attach a third hand fiction hitch to the brake strand and attach that to your belay loop with a locking carabiner.
Make sure the system is closed (either you are tied into the other end of the rope or it is knotted near the end). If your rope is already stacked you are now ready to lower.
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice in a safe setting and seek qualified mentors, instructors, and guides.
Questions or Comments? Please share them below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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There are many reasons why a climbing party may choose to lower a team member during a descent, for example, very windy conditions. While the Munter Hitch only requires a single HMS style locking carabiner the “Redirected Plate” method is another option that only requires a tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Verso and two locking carabiners (or one if lowering through fixed chains).
This method provides one of the smoothest lowers and is probably the easiest to make sure the rope stays twist free.
First install the rope onto your tube style belay device as if you were about to belay your partner from your harness. Instead of attaching the belay carabiner to your belay loop attach it to the master point of your anchor.
Redirect the brake strand through a locking carabiner in the master point of your anchor. It is best if this locking carabiner is slightly smaller than the belay locking carabiner.
Before lowering attach a third hand fiction hitch to the brake strand and attach that to your belay loop.
Make sure the system is closed (either you are tied into the other end of the rope or it is knotted near the end). If your rope is already stacked you are now ready to lower.
An efficient use of this technique when rappelling with a single rope is to thread the rope through the fixed gear as the redirect instead of a locking carabiner. That way when the climber reaches the ground, or the next anchor, you can pull more rope through to the middle mark of your rope, remove your tube style device, put yourself on a double strand rappel, and head on down. Or even more crafty conduct a “Reepschneur” Rappel <- upcoming tech tip!
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice this technique in a safe setting and seek qualified mentorship and instruction.
Questions or Comments? Please share them below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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The Munter Mule Overhand or “MMO” is a combination of three knots that creates a releasable-under-tension method of securing a rope or cordelette. The MMO is useful in improvised self-rescue applications most often involving load transfers. In this situation I was using it to secure one end of a typical top-rope setup so my guest could practice rope ascension on the other end of the top-rope. The context here is if the climber practicing rope ascension gets a device jammed or has trouble transitioning from ascension back to descending I can remove the overhand, carefully deconstruct the Mule, then use the Munter to lower the climber back down to the ground.
Climbing is dangerous! Be sure to seek qualified instruction and practice new skills on the ground.
Questions or Comments? Please share them below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliiate links above support the content created here. When making a purchase through these links the author earns a small commission on no additional cost to you. Thank you.
