Part 2: The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak

Part 2 of this three part Cascade climbing series will cover The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Part 2: The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak Part 1: Fisher Chimney’s, Mount Shuksan Part 2: The West Ridge, Forbidden Peak Part 3: Disappointment Cleaver, Mount Rainier After our successful summit of Mount Shuksan via the Fisher Chimney's … Continue reading Part 2: The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak

Part 1 Cascades Climbing Trip: Fisher Chimney’s, Mount Shuksan

A week ago I returned from a two week climbing trip in the Cascades of Washington State and ticked off three classic climbs. While I've had amazing climbing trips to Colorado, Nevada, and California this most recent trip has likely become my most memorable. I'll share a trip report, GPS track, detailed gear list, pics … Continue reading Part 1 Cascades Climbing Trip: Fisher Chimney’s, Mount Shuksan

Gear Review- Big Agnes Dunkley Belay Jacket

The Big Agnes Dunkley Belay Jacket is the lightest synthetic belay jacket I have tested this season that also competes well in the heat retention department. I previewed this jacket back in November and now that I have tested it above treeline on Mount Washington and while hanging at icy cold belays while ice climbing … Continue reading Gear Review- Big Agnes Dunkley Belay Jacket

Intro to Ice Climbing

This past Wednesday I had the opportunity to introduce four guests of Northeast Mountaineering to the joys of ice climbing. The North End of Cathedral is in great shape for early season climbing and we had a full day climbing on the North End Slab and the Pillars. Yesterday I got out to Frankenstein for … Continue reading Intro to Ice Climbing

Eastern Snow Avalanche Workshop

A couple weeks ago I attended the sixth annual Eastern Snow & Avalanche Workshop and wrote a brief summary of the event with a few photos. Here, with permission, is a special sneak preview of the more detailed report my friend and colleague Jonathan Shefftz has written for The Avalanche Review before it goes to … Continue reading Eastern Snow Avalanche Workshop

Petzl Hirundos Harness Review

This Spring & Summer I climbed almost exclusively in the Petzl Hirundos and would like to share my opinion on this well received harness by Petzl. The Hirundos is a solid option for any climber looking to shed a couple ounces and gain a bit of comfort. Let's have a look. Buy on Backcountry  Buy at REI Buy at … Continue reading Petzl Hirundos Harness Review

Cathedral & Whitehorse, Rumney & Huntington Ravine

This past 3 day holiday weekend had me guiding Yu Chih Chieh from Taiwan as he finished up 8 days of climbing instruction. Yu Chih, who goes by Brendan in the US, is in doctorate level program at Brown University in Rhode Island and is a die-hard botanist (and motivated aspiring alpinist). We started the morning … Continue reading Cathedral & Whitehorse, Rumney & Huntington Ravine