For many breaking into the multi-pitch rock climbing world swing leading seems to still be the default method of moving the rope up a climb when the two climbing partners are of relatively similar experience. Indeed this was my go-to option for my first decade of multi-pitch experience. It was in 2006 that I picked … Continue reading Swing leading or leading in blocks?(And Giveaway)
I've been seeing this climb pop up on my social media feeds a few times this season and have been looking for a chance to get up to Dixville Notch and check it out. Today was the day so last night while searching for a partner I connected with my friend AJ. He was planning … Continue reading Trip Report- Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch State Park, 3-6-18
I hope you have all been having a great winter so far. For me the early season ice climbing was great with a couple Black Dike ascents getting it off to a good start. Then we got 82 inches of snow in December followed by another foot the first week of January and it appeared … Continue reading Mid Winter Season Check-in
I recently conducted an informal survey on a climbing focused Facebook page to determine if what gear I perceive out on our frozen cliffs is an accurate representation of what people are actually carrying. I wasn't too surprised to see the overwhelming majority was using alpine draws (two carabiners and a thin style Dyneema sling … Continue reading Tech Tip- Alpine Draws vs Sport Draws for Ice Climbing
While I'm not super excited about how commercialized our holidays have become I do get stoked on seeing big discounts on gear that I own and love. I subscribe to quite a few gear companies emails and I'm combing them all for the best upcoming sales on specific items I have either reviewed or would … Continue reading Best Gear Deals for Climbers (Backcountry)
The official start to winter may be over a month away but for many of us in the Northeast the proverbial snowball is rolling now! This past weekend is when I flip the switch from Fall rock climbing to thinking a lot about snow and ice starting with attending the 7th annual Eastern Snow and … Continue reading ESAW re-cap and Ice Season has started!
The leaves are starting to turn high in our notches so I find myself starting to anticipate another great ice climbing season in the Northeast. Last season I had the opportunity to demo the CAMP/Cassin X-Dream Ice Axes and while I shared my positive impressions of them with dozens of climbing partners I never got … Continue reading Gear Review: Cassin X-Dream Ice Axe
Continuing my almost weekly Tuesday (not always Tuesday) Tech Tip series this week I'm sharing how to build the Auto-Locking Munter (ALM) hitch. In last weeks post I shared how to tie a Munter Hitch (MH) directly onto a carabiner, a skill useful for any climber. This skill is a little more specialized and its … Continue reading Tying an Auto-Locking Munter Hitch
I recently saw a fellow guide post a picture of his climbing book library and thought it might be helpful to share some of my favorite books in my own personal collection. Early on in my climbing career I simply could not read enough about climbing. Not only did I read every book I could … Continue reading Top Ten Climbing Instruction Books
What a week it has been! This time last Wednesday I was just topping out the classic hard line Repentance on Cathedral Ledge with my old friend Tom and new friend and fellow Northeast Mountaineering guide Jordan. The route was in excellent shape and felt a few degrees easier than when I first climbed it … Continue reading Repentance, Black Dike, Ice Fest, Avy Course!