Tech Tip- The Mini-Quad

Originally introduced in the 2006 version of John Long's Climbing Anchors book the "Quad" took a few years to start being adapted by both guides and recreational climbers alike. Now, ten years later, it has really started to gain widespread popularity for the simplified way it can create ERNEST* anchors, especially when building anchors on two … Continue reading Tech Tip- The Mini-Quad

Whitehorse Ledge and Self-Rescue

I spent the last two days with Katie and Chris, a couple from Mass who are quickly becoming more and more proficient in their climbing. Earlier this summer we spent a day together working on building quality top-rope anchors so that they could hit their local MA crags in style and this weekend they returned … Continue reading Whitehorse Ledge and Self-Rescue

Family Rock Climbing

Yesterday was one of the most fun guiding days as I got to introduce 3 amazing kiddos to their first outdoor rock climbing experience. David, their father, had considerable previous climbing experience but was coming off a long hiatus and thought a guided trip might be the best way to get the kiddos climbing on … Continue reading Family Rock Climbing

Rumney, Whitney-Gilman, Pinnacle!

I hope everyone is out there enjoying the best rock climbing weather of the year! Yesterday I finished three solid days of guiding for Northeast Mountaineering starting with a fun Friday at Rumney Rocks with Jennifer. Rumney Rocks Jennifer used to rock and ice climb all over the west before moving East and focusing on … Continue reading Rumney, Whitney-Gilman, Pinnacle!

Improved Belay Check

A tragic rock climber fatality this past weekend at a crag in Vermont has motivated this post. The exact events leading up to the accident are still not public but what is clear is the young woman fell 90 feet while trying to descend, presumably while being lowered. UPDATE 9/22/2017: An official summary of the … Continue reading Improved Belay Check

Part 2: The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak

Part 2 of this three part Cascade climbing series will cover The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Part 2: The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak Part 1: Fisher Chimney’s, Mount Shuksan Part 2: The West Ridge, Forbidden Peak Part 3: Disappointment Cleaver, Mount Rainier After our successful summit of Mount Shuksan via the Fisher Chimney's … Continue reading Part 2: The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak

Whitehorse and Cathedral Ledge Rock Climbing

Yesterday I had the pleasure of introducing David and his daughter Nicole to rock climbing in Echo Lake State Park. We started our morning over at the sweeping granite slabs of Whitehorse Ledge. After some ground school we climbed 4 pitches to Lunch Ledge then rappelled back to the deck. After a scenic lunch a … Continue reading Whitehorse and Cathedral Ledge Rock Climbing