gear

Mammut Trion 38 Backpack: Features, Performance & Opinions

David Lottmann Backpack Reviews, Gear Reviews, hiking, hiking, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Wilderness Survival, winter hiking , , , , , , , , , ,

The Mammut Trion 38 backpack is versatile 4 season backpack suitable for summer backpacking trip, winter mountaineering trips, ice climbing and backcountry skiing. If you are looking for a backpack that can perform well in any of these adventures the Mammut Trion 38 deserves a look especially at a sub $200 MRSP!

Let’s start with the manufacturer description and then get into some details and opinions!

Manufacturer Description

The ideal partner for climbing, ski tours, and mountaineering, this versatile pack serves up lightweight comfort and exceptional durability for year-round alpine pursuits. Water-repellent and abrasion-resistant, our full Trion line was developed with pro alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Nico Hojac to optimize every last detail. Made of primarily recycled materials, the Trion 38 offers a host of practical features, including ice axe attachments, quick side access to the main compartment, and a designated avalanche equipment compartment. Complete with contact back system for optimal load transfer, you can stay fully focused on the next move ahead.

Suggested Activities

According to Mammut this pack was designed with these activities in mind. While I like this graphic visual I think it misses “ice climbing” and “cragging” as great uses for this pack, and I’m not even sure what one looks for in a Via Ferrata pack?

Features

  • Rolltop closure with zipper
  • Two ice axe attachments
  • Zippered side access to main compartment
  • Compartment for avalanche equipment
  • Elasticated chest strap for optimum comfort and a perfect fit
  • Large mesh pockets on the shoulder strap
  • Reinforced side ski attachment
  • Trekking pole carrier
  • Hydration system-compatible
  • Rope attachment on flap
  • Compression straps can be tensioned at side and front
  • Comfortable thanks to the anatomically shaped, soft padded hip belt and shoulder straps
  • Robust, abrasion-proof outer material
  • Flap with external and internal pockets with key pocket
Mammut Trion 38 Backpack Review

How I Tested

I tested this pack from mid-March 2024 to June 2024 while leading winter hiking trips above tree line in the White Mountains, teaching avalanche courses, and sneaking in some late season waterfall ice climbing in Dixville Notch. I’ve also taken it one some Spring hiking and climbing trips with loads up to 30 pounds.

Performance & Opinions

On the first day of use I appreciated the roll top with stiffener zippered closure for the main top access. This type of access allows you to really open the top of the pack up to make loading it with a gear quick and easy. With 38 liters (2,400 cubic inches) of space the pack easily swallowed my extra clothes, a 60 meter climbing rope, a full traditional climbing rack, and everything else one needs for a day of adventuring. My 70 ounce hydration bladder slid smoothly into the internal mesh sleeve and the one side zipper access point let me dig out my first aid kit to grab a blister bandage when my hiking partner developed a bit of a hot spot.

While priced closer to a general backpacking pack the Mammut Trion 38 has all the features of high end mountaineering packs. Things like dual ice axe loops that also have the elastic T-shaped pieces to accomodate any type of waterfall or general mountaineering ice axes. Side compression straps that can allow you to securely carry your backcountry skis in an “A-frame” style carry. A large removable top lid with both internal and external pockets.

Mammut Trion 38 Backpack Review

For comfort the Mammut Trion 38 has a “Motion V Frame” back panel that is lightly padded, breathable, and very form fitting. Unique to a pack this size, in my experience, are the running vest style shoulder straps. I appreciated how wide and distributive the shoulder straps are once I got them properly adjusted and loved the convenience of carrying my iPhone 13 ProMax in the stretchy shoulder strap pockets that I think are more often used by trail runners to carry small bottles of water or energy gels.

Summary

Overall I was impressed with the features, design, and quality of a backpack of this size that retails for less the $200. My only negative was I dislike all black backpacks, but fortunately this pack comes in a nice high visible orange and the brand recognizable white & black. It feels quite spacious at 38 liters and I think there is more then enough carrying capacity for 3-4 day backpacking trips. If you are in the market for a solid all around backpack that can handle a pretty wide array of adventures take a close look at this one. Mammut also has an outstanding warranty and repair program should your pack ever need some TLC!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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A media sample was provided by Mammut for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!

Testing the Petzl Neox: Efficiency in Hauling & Ascension Systems

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips , , , , , , ,

I’ve now had the Petzl Neox for about two weeks and have been able to form some opinions and test it in applications I’m most interested in. The most recent day I spent at the cliff with it was focused on seeing how it performed as a progress capture in an improvised hauling system and in a rope ascension system. Both these uses are important to me for assisting a seconding climber or rescuing an injured lead climber, and places where I would traditionally be using a Petzl GriGri. Here is some raw footage of this round of testing and some of my thoughts.

I assumed the Petzl Neox would work great for progress capture in this systems due to the spinning internal cog wheel and it definitely felt efficient in both the hauling scenario and the rope climbing scenario. I will be doing another round of comparisons with a more realistic full body weight load on the system but the fact the wheel still spun in my rope ascension test leads me to think it will still spin with a full load in a hauling system. This took me a little while to wrap my head around because you can seen when the device sees a full load while single strand rappelling the cam rotates, the wheel stops spinning, and you control your descent with the friction of the rope moving through the created bend. Why wouldn’t the wheel rotate and lock like that while using it as a progress capture?

The answer comes down to physics and while not having anything close to a degree in physics I can see how the device isn’t getting the full load in these scenarios. The full load is on the “tractor”, or friction hitch, or the Petzl Tibloc. When you go to pull slack through the Petzl Neox at that part of the cycle there is almost no weight on the device so the cam does not engage and the wheel spins freely reducing effort in hauling and ascending. When you relax during the hauling process all the load goes back to the Petzl Neox and the cam engages. Same with ascending, when you transfer your weight from your foot loop back to your harness the necessary threshold is exceeded and the cam engages. When you put your weight into your foot loop to progress the weight comes off the device and it is easier to pull the slack through the device then the Petzl GriGri.

Summary

It is still early in our broader exposure to this new belay device but the videos have been pouring out from influencers, highly certified guides, and rock star YouTuber’s. My opinion will likely evolve over the course of the summer as I put more days on the device, and expose more beginner climbers to it. For now I will re-iterate that I really like how easy it is to pull slack while belaying from above, and the more I think about it I do think this device may be in someways safer for a newer belayer as the instructions basically encourage you to not tough the device while paying out slack. This device may help prevent the holding open of the cam at risky moments which was likely part of the motivation of the anti-panic feature that came with the Petzl GriGri+.

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See you in the mountains!

I hope this information is helpful for your to make an informed decision. While Petzl supplied me with a Neox to review this is not a sponsored post. Affiliate links above help me continue to spend time creating these videos and posts and I thank you for your support!

My Ice Climbing Kit

David Lottmann adventure travel, Avalanche Courses, Avalanche Gear Reviews, Backcountry Skiing, Backpack Reviews, backpacking, Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Clothing Reviews, Deals on gear!, Electronic Reviews, Footwear Reviews, Gear Reviews, Glove Reviews, hiking, hiking, Ice Climbing, Misc Reviews, Mountaineering, Self-Rescue, Ski Gear Reviews, Tech Tips, Tech Tips, Wilderness Medicine, Wilderness Navigation, Wilderness Survival, winter hiking , , , , , , , ,

While the New England ice climbing season is off to a bit of a sluggish start a follower recently asked if I had a gear list for what I take ice climbing. Thanks for the inspiration for this post Kyle! I’m going to list items in the order that I usually pack my pack.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack Review

I’ve tested over a dozen packs specifically designed for waterfall ice climbing and this pack has held onto my #1 spot for best ice climbing pack. You can find my full review of this pack here.

Patagonia DAS Parka

If there is any chance of mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the reliability of a synthetic insulated belay parka, and the Patagonia DAS Parka is an industry leading choice.

Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket

If there is zero chance of encountering mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the warmth and packability of a down insulated belay parka, and for that the Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket is an excellent choice.

Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hooded Jacket Review

If it is wicked cold out I’ve been known to pack a second light puffy so I can “double up” on my belay jackets. Conversely, if it’s really mild out I might just up for carrying a lighter puffy then the two jackets I mention above. For that the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket is a great choice. You can find my recent detailed review of this one here.

32oz Wide Mouth Nalgene Water Bottle

I typically only carry one 32 ounce wide mouth water bottle for most ice climbing day trips. I do not use any type of insulated parka to keep it from freezing. I just pack in above my belay jackets and close to the small of my back. In the coldest of temps I have never had it freeze when packed up against my back. If I want something with more flavor then water I reach for some of my Skratch Labs stash. If it’s a really cold mission, or a really long day, I also pack an insulated water bottle with some Borvo Broth. This stuff really tastes amazing and is an excellent mid-day energy refresher!

AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit

I use the AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit as my base first aid kit then I add a few things to it that just live inside the kit. Like the Petzl e+lite headlamp, a small knife, and a small Bic lighter. I also slide a SAM splint down into the back sleeve of my backpack along with a CAT tourniquet.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Ice Screw Case

Hyperlight Mountain Gear Prism Ice Pack Review

This case is perfect for packing and protecting my ice screws. I’ve used Petzl and Black Diamond screws for over two decades of ice climbing with few complaints. This season I have swapped out almost my entire rack for a set of the new Blue Ice Aero Ice Screws. I’ll have a review out on these as soon as Mother Nature brings the ice back into condition. For sizes my typical set up is one 22cm, eight 13cm, and one 10cm. If heading to the bigger ice at Willoughby I will add four 17 to 19cm screws. I carry a Grivel Candela V-Thread Tool which conveniently nestles inside my 22cm ice screw. In the zippered pocket in the ice screw case I have some zip ties and the allen wrench for my CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools.

Author on Black Pudding Gully, WI4 – photo by Brent Doscher

For clipping ice screws on lead I highly prefer the Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraws. Notchless wire gate carabiners are the best, and the larger rope side carabiner on these draws is glove friendly. It’s also a better carabiner if you ever climb on a two rope system. I carry 8 of these racked on a Petzl William Screw Locking Carabiner. On this carabiner I also have a “locker draw” that I build from a Petzl Express Quickdraw Sling and two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners. There is also one “alpine draw” built with a 60cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling and two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners clipped to this large locking carabiner, a 180cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling with two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners, and a pre-tied “mini-quad“.

The rest of my climbing hardware is all clipper to a large locking carabiner and includes two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners, my DMM Pivot Belay Device, a 16 foot length of Sterling Power Cord, a traditional 6mm cord tied into a small prussic, a 40cm Edelrid Aramid Cord, and a small carabiner knife.

Inside my Hyperlite Prism Crampon Bag are my Petzl Dart Crampons and I often stuff a pair of Kahtoola MICROspikes in there as well.

Next I stuff my warmer Black Diamond Guide Gloves in. It has to be heinous out there for me to end up switching into these beasts but I won’t risk not being able to keep my hands warm in the winter so these get packed even though I rarely wear them. I do most of my ice leading wearing CAMP USA Geko Ice Pro Gloves and Rab Power Stretch Pro Glove Liners.

Inside my Petzl Sirocco Helmet (review) or Salewa Piuma 3.0 Helmet (I love both these helmets) I pack my preferred ice climbing harness which is the Petzl Sitta (my review) outfitted with three Petzl Caritools.

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon

In the top pocket of my pack I stick my Petzl IKO Core Headlamp along with some hand warmers, my snacks and food for the day. And since I know you are wondering what my favorite on mountain food choice is I’ll share that hands down the best food to take ice climbing is left over pizza from Flatbread NoCo!

For a rope I prefer the Sterling Rope Fushion Nano IX 9mm by 60m rope. It’s a triple rated rope (single, twin, half) so it is ideal for guiding two clients on multi-pitch ice. I have two of them in the bi-pattern.

While I already mentioned it above my ice tools of choice are the CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools. You can find my original in depth review of these tools here.

Finally on the outside of my shoulder strap I clip my Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio. If you’ve been following me for awhile you know I’m a huge fan of these radios. They make climbing & skiing so much better than it was before. Did you know you can get ten percent off of them with code “AlpineStart10”?

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Well that pretty much sums up what I pack for a day of ice climbing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I can go into my clothing system in another post if there is interest. Did I miss anything? What do you bring that I don’t? Got any questions about anything in my kit? Please comment below if you do have a question or if you found this post helpful in anyway. Temperatures are finally getting colder so I’m hoping to get out later this week and actually use this gear for what it is intended for!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Gear Review: Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody

David Lottmann Backcountry Skiing, backpacking, Climbing Gear Reviews, Clothing Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, hiking, hiking, Holiday Gift Guides, Ice Climbing, Misc Reviews, Mountaineering, Ski Gear Reviews, Wilderness Survival, winter hiking , , , , , , , , , , , ,

I’ve been testing the new Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody since early October and after a half dozen trips into the alpine with it I’m ready to share my thoughts.

TLDR Version: This is an outstanding addition to the “light puffy” market and I’m stoked to have this in my current rotation of outdoor clothes.

How I Tested: Two ice climbing trips to Mount Willard, an ice climbing trip into Tuckerman Ravine, two Mount Washington attempts (one successful summit, one bail at Lion Head due to very poor visibility and extreme winds higher)

Before I get into my personal opinions on this jacket let’s look at the manufacturer description and specifications:

Manufacturer Description:

The perfect layer for backcountry rock walls, big alpine faces, and frigid weekend ski tours, the Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody is the ultimate in dynamic four-season insulation that breathes efficiently and stretches with your every movement. The jacket packed with migration-resistant Primaloft Gold Active, maintaining breathability during even the most intense high-output pursuits. The 20D nylon ripstop face fabric and stretch liner resists weather and encourages full range of motion, while remaining incredibly durable through rugged talus, brushy approaches and daily use. Additional features include an adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood, a low-profile, single-adjust hem and a highly packable design that stuffs into the internal stretch mesh pocket and clips onto your harness, all your needs are covered. Fit and overall design has been entirely overhauled for 2023.

PRODUCT FEATURES

  • Migration-resistant PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation
  • 20D nylon ripstop face fabric with PFC-free DWR Technology
  • Lightweight, stretch lining for added breathability
  • Mapped insulation throughout body, shoulders, and arms
  • Adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood with drawcord adjustment
  • Underarm gussets for added range of motion
  • Low-profile, single-adjust hem
  • Stows in internal left hand pocket with carabiner clip loop
  • Two concealed-zip hand pockets
  • Primary fabric is Bluesign approved
  • ECO Label Status
  • Fit: Regular
  • Claimed Weight: 14.29 ounces
Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon

Personal Opinions:

The “light puffy” has become a staple in my winter outdoor clothing scheme. My biggest requirements in a quality piece are; high warmth to weight ratio, high breathability, high packability, decent water resistance, wind proof, well fitting. The Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody checks all the boxes!

High Warmth to Weight Ratio: Black Diamond uses mapped PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation. Primaloft® Gold is one of the best synthetic insulators available with a CLO value of 0.92, which is roughly equivalent to the warmth of 500 or 550 fill-power down and achieves 98% thermal efficiency (and still retains heat if it gets wet, unlike down). The nylon shell fabric is lightweight and soft to the touch, allowing for the whole jacket to weight less than a pound. For a synthetic insulated hooded jacket this is quite impressive, so I give this a 5/5 in the warmth to weight ration category!

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review

High Breathability: The biggest test of the breathability of this jacket came yesterday as I was breaking trail in thigh deep new snow from tree line to the summit cone on Mount Washington. Temps were 6 degrees Fahrenheit (-14 Celcius), winds were around 40 mph (64 Kph), and the wind chill was about -23 Fahrenheit (-30 Celcius). The uphill battle was slow going and a bit exhausting. I needed more than my base layers and soft shell jacket to stay comfortable but I was working pretty hard. I pulled this on over my soft shell and kept working uphill thinking I’d likely start to overheat soon and need to take it off. That didn’t happen and I reached the summit with it still on. So it is definitely breathable. I didn’t take it off until I was back to tree line and out of the wind for the quick walk back to the trailhead.

High Packability: While similar down jackets can pack smaller I prefer the extra insurance of synthetic for my light puffy jackets and only have one big down parka these days that is always in my pack for the most arctic of trips. Despite being a synthetic hooded jacket I am impressed with the Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody ability to get small. Without much coaching it will pack into it’s own zipper right side hand pocket at takes up just a little more space then your standard wide mouth Nalgene water bottle.

Decent Water Resistance: Black Diamond uses pretty standard PFC-free DWR Technology to give this jacket some water resistance. I was only exposed to a little dripping water on a warmish ascent of Hitchcock Gully earlier this year and as expected any drops that hit me just rolled off the fabric. Since it is a synthetic and not down I’m less concerned about how water resistant a light synthetic puffy is as I will still pack a hardshell if there is a significant chance of liquid precipitation on my trip.

Wind Proof: 100% this jacket is indeed windproof as I tested it in those 40+mph conditions I mentioned above. All I can really add here is I am impressed with how windproof the jacket seems while being so breathable at the same time. Must be the 20 denier fabric that Black Diamond used for the shell fabric, it just strikes the right balance in this regard.

Well Fitting: Ok I kind of saved the best for last here. I love the way this jacket fits and movies. Black Diamond says it’s a “regular” fit and while that means it isn’t supposed to fit like your tapered skinny jeans I don’t find the fit to be too bulky at all either. For my 5’9″ 185 pound frame the large fits over my skin layers and soft shell jacket perfectly. The length is perfect for tucking in under my climbing harness, and the stretchy panels under the arms keep in tucked in while I’m ice climbing and raising my hands far above my head often. The insulated hood is comfortable and well fitting with or without a climbing helmet on thanks to the drawcord adjustment. The fit is somehow technical while casual as I’ve found myself grabbing this jacket for everyday where and not just saving it for mountain missions.

Summary: The synthetic light weight hooded jacket is one of my favorite categories of gear to test. You can find many of my reviews of this style of jacket over the years on my review page. If your “light puffy” is ready for replacement or upgrade, or you have yet to add the “light puffy” to your outdoor wardrobe, I highly suggest you check the Black Diamond First Light Hooded Jacket out!

Buy Directly from Black Diamond

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See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above help support this blog. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional charge to you. Thank you.