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What’s in a Rescuer’s Pack Series- Part 1 Physical Mirrored Compass

David Lottmann adventure travel, Avalanche Courses, Backcountry Skiing, backpacking, Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, hiking, Land Navigation, Misc Reviews, Mountaineering, Tech Tips, Tech Tips, Wilderness Medicine, Wilderness Navigation, Wilderness Survival , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Best Compass For Hiking and Search and Rescue

Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass

Part 2- Digital Map (and maybe a physical backup)

Part 3- Headlamps… plural!

Part 4- First Aid Kit & Training!

Part 5- Water and Water Treatment

With over twenty years of service on multiple Search and Rescue teams in the White Mountains of New Hampshire I’ve had plenty of time to dial in what I carry on missions. My rescue pack is different from my typical guiding pack in a couple ways.

First, I carry more tools for off trail navigation than what I pack for guiding trade routes that I have traveled hundreds of times.

Second, I carry the gear I need to comfortably spend a night out in the woods if need be. In this series I’m going to break down every item in my pack and go into detail about each item, its purpose, and make brand and model recommendations for each piece.

Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass

Despite my affinity for digital GPS navigation I do still carry a quality liquid filled magnetic compass. My requirements for a compass are accuracy, durability, and dependability. For over two decades I’ve relied on the Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass.

This compass checks all my boxes.

Accurate?

The manufacturer claimed accuracy is to 2 degrees and the resolution is also 2 degrees. With the sighting mirror and dual elevation sight-notches I can take very precise bearings in the field. The full length compass when opened supports accurate single point and dual point resection. In practice I’ve covered a few miles of off trail travel, both dense forest areas and barren alpine zones, and found my objective every time with this compass.

Durable?

In twenty years I’ve never broken on of these compasses. They are rugged. I’ve only replaced it once when it went missing during one of the avalanche courses I was teaching. I’m pretty sure a student accidentally took it home after a field session. Speaking of avalanche safety this compass has a built in clinometer which measures slope angle.

Measuring slope angle with the built in clinometer on the Suunto MC-2 Compass to make better decisions in avalanche terrain

Not only is this ability crucial for avalanche safety but it’s helpful with navigation as well. If you’re trying to determine if a nearby peak is higher or lower than your current location a clinometer can accurately answer that for you.

Best Compass For Hiking and Search and Rescue

(The back arrow above indicates a 35 degree slope along the top or bottom edge of the clear base plate)

Dependable?

One of the biggest reasons I still carry a physical mirrored compass is because of how often I work in cold weather conditions. Smartphones are very susceptible to the kind of temperature I both recreate in, and serve in when on a SAR mission. Even keeping my iPhone warm in an inner chest pocket I have seen the screen stop working in mere seconds when exposed to below freezing temperatures. I have used my mirrored compass during above tree-line searches in sub-zero temperatures. Suunto claims the liquid used will not freeze until -30° C / -22° F.

For occasional recreational use this compass may be a bit more than you need. For light recreational use I recommend my students purchase a model like the Suunto A-10 NH Compass or better if their budget can afford it.

The Suunto M-3 NH Compass is a good mid-range choice. For professional level use for someone who plans to spend a fair amount of time traveling off the beaten paths I highly recommend the added accuracy of a mirrored compass.

I’ve always found success with Suunto compasses but I have a friend and colleague who teaches Wilderness Survival and Wilderness First Responder Courses and he is a big fan of Brunton, so with his trusted endorsement I am including that brand as well below with some general comments on each high end model.

Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass – If you travel internationally this is the model to get as the patented global needle will work anywhere in the world.

Suunto MC-2 NH Mirrored Compass – If your adventures are contained to the Northern Hemisphere this is the model for you. Took me a hot minute to figure out that “NH” didn’t stand for my beloved state of New Hampshire, but for “Northern Hemisphere”. The needle is designed to float freely anywhere north of the Equator.

Brunton Truarc15 Luminescent Compass– My colleague, who probably spends more time then most traveling through the woods in the dark, is a fan of this compass. It certainly looks to me to be a very solid choice for a professional level compass.

Summary

While this series will likely cover the rest of the “ten essentials” soon I purposely started with the compass before the map. If I had to pick between navigating with only a compass or a map, I would choose a compass. While my improvised/survival navigation skills are quite sharp, a compass lets me follow a very specific bearing into trail-less wilderness in darkness or fog for a few miles, and return back my starting point often within a few dozen feet. This type of competent navigation is only gained through dedicated practice in the field and would be impossible with just a map and no compass.

Get Skilled

Best Compass For Hiking and Search and Rescue

If terms like “declination” and “resection” are not familiar to you I would highly suggest seeking out a quality course in Wilderness Navigation. There are many options from free clinics offered by hiking clubs to high level courses. I actually developed my own 8 hour course after not finding a course anywhere that offered the type of classroom/field session lessons I think are effective. Feel free to reach out if you’d like to book a Wilderness Navigation Course with me! I also have a small selection of YouTube videos covering some compass topics you can check out here!

Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue

Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:

Androscroggin Valley Search and Rescue Donations

Lakes Region Search and Rescue Donations

While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.

Best Compass for Hiking and Search and Rescue

Comments? Questions?

Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to compasses or my suggestions. Let me know what your favorite compass model is! Do you feel competent with compass navigation? Have you practiced recently?

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to the reader. Thank you!

Gear Review: Petzl Glacier Mountaineering Axe

David Lottmann adventure travel, Backcountry Skiing, cascades climbing, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Misc Reviews, Mountaineering, Tech Tips, Wilderness Survival , , , , , ,
Petzl Glacier Mountaineering Axe Review

This winter I have been using the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe for guiding winter Mount Washington ascents. I have also been using it for teaching mountaineering skills courses. The bottom line? This is a solid choice for a general mountaineering axe with some nice features. I chose the 68 centimeter size for my 5’9″ height. The axe is also available in 50, 60, and 75 centimeter lengths. The 68 centimeter size weighs 365 grams.

Petzl Glacier Axe Review

The head of the axe has a classic shaped pick which is most effective for self-arrest. The sharper and more aggressive tip of the pick is suitable for overcoming the occasional ice bulge. The adze is wider than most similar style axes. It provides a comfortable grip when using the traveling hand position (piolet panne). The small concave dip at the top of the shaft adds comfort for the self-arrest grip. The tool comes with the “LINKIN” removable leash, a $20 value. Personally I don’t like to use leashes on my ice tools so I did remove it before testing.

Petzl Glacier Axe Review

A removable pick protector is included. For casual climbs without much fall hazard I think it makes sense to leave the tip protector on. As your route becomes more technical with occasional ice bulges and more exposure to long sliding falls I would choose to leave the protector at home or in the car at the trail-head.

Petzl Glacier Axe Review

A removable spike protector is included as well. I liked how I could slide this up the tool during a casual ascent. This way, it would not interfere with proper “piolet canne” technique. After the axe was put back on my pack and I took my trekking poles out it was quick and easy to cover the sharp spike.

Petzl Glacier Axe Review

After a half dozen trips into the mountains with the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe, I can easily recommend it. It is suitable for anyone shopping for a well-designed general mountaineering axe. More important than what axe you buy though is that you seek out the training in its proper use. Consider taking a Mountaineering Skills Course so that you can learn proper crampon and ice axe technique before relying on this equipment to protect you. You can use the contact page here to check my availability if you would like to request me as your guide.

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Thank you for your response. ✨

Here is a quick video we shot yesterday after a successful summit of Mount Washington where I point out basic nomenclature of a mountaineering axe.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

Comparing Petzl Neox and Edelrid Pinch for Climbing

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , , , , , , , , , ,

The Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch are the two biggest additions to the growing market of Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs). Many of you might be wondering which device is the right one for you.

In this video, I will show the key differences between each device. This will help you make an informed decision on which device is best for you. This is not an in-depth review of either device. More in-depth reviews of each device will be linked below in the description as they are published. Below the video is a transcript with greater detail than what I had time to convey in the video. Feel free to skip to any section you would like more information on!

  • COST

To start our comparison let’s look at retail cost. The manufacturer suggested retail price of the Petzl Neox is $149.95 USD ($€29 Euros) and the Edelrid Pinch is $119.95 USD (€99.95). The difference of $30 USD is not insignificant. The Petzl Neox must be paired with a locking carabiner to function. In contrast, the Edelrid Pinch can be used without a locking carabiner. For comparison the recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner is $18.95 USD.

  • WEIGHT

Next let’s look at the difference in weight. The Petzl Neox claimed weight is 235 grams. The Edelrid Pinch claimed weight is 234 grams. That’s only 1 gram difference so even Steven right? Well not quite. You see the Edelrid Pinch is designed to be usable without a locking carabiner. It has a secure locking attachment point. You can connect it to any belay loop or master point that is a minimum of 10mm in width. I’ve seen some guides on social media adding a locking carabiner as a sort of “double” lock on the setup. While there isn’t really anything wrong with being “extra” safe, I haven’t seen any reason for concern. This is true when the device is installed properly without using an extra locking carabiner. So, for comparison reasons, the Edelrid Pinch is one locking carabiner lighter. This makes it lighter than a usable Petzl Neox. The recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner weighs 46 grams for comparison.

Petzl Neox vs Edelrid Pinch
  • SIZE

Size wise they are pretty similar. The Petzl Neox is about 4 ¼ inches (10.76 cm) long and 2 ½ inches (6.35 cm) wide and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The Edelrid Pinch is 5 ½ inches (14 cm) long and 2 ¾ inches (7 cm) and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The difference in dimensions is quite minimal. However, you could factor in the additional size of a locking carabiner for the Petzl Neox to function. This may not matter much from a pack-ability standpoint. We will discuss later how having the Edelrid Pinch connected directly to your harness belay loop might be more efficient. It could also be attached to the anchor master point during belays for added efficiency.

  • ROPE SIZE

The Petzl Neox is approved to be used with single rated climbing ropes between 8.5 and 11 millimeters. The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used with single rated dynamic ropes between 8.5 and 10.5 millimeters and static ropes between 10 to 10.5 millimeters. I haven’t climbed on a single rated rope thicker than 10.5 millimeters in a couple of decades so I don’t think this difference is very notable. It is interesting that the usable threshold for static rope is mentioned to be smaller. I’m not sure exactly why that is. This answer probably is not very relevant to most potential users. Most static ropes likely fall within the 10 to 10.5 millimeter range.

  • LEAD BELAY FUNCTION

There are some pretty noticeable differences when belaying a leader with the Edelrid Pinch versus the Petzl Neox.

First, the real stand out feature of the Petzl Neox is the smoothness of adding slack quickly to the system. The intuitiveness is also exceptional. The spinning wheel inside the housing simplifies keeping up with a quickly moving climber. This is true even when they make a big reach clip. With the Petzl Neox, it is less likely that a belayer will accidentally “short rope” a lead climber. It is also less likely that the device will unintentionally lock up while trying to add slack to the system.

Second, there is no need for a special hand position when feeding slack with the Petzl Neox. This means the device is easily mastered by anyone who can belay well with a standard tube style belay device.

Lead belaying with the Edelrid Pinch feels much more similar to belaying with a Petzl GriGri. Many seasoned climbers are quite familiar with this. The cam can engage when quickly paying out slack. Make sure to use care. The technical details and instructions illustrate a “quick slack” grip method. An advantage of the Edelrid Pinch is its versatility. You can perform the quick slack method whether you are right handed or left handed. This method takes a little practice to do well but isn’t hard to master with some time. The Petzl Neox essentially has a slightly faster learning curve in the hands of a new belayer.

Finally, one notable difference here is the Edelrid Pinch can be connected directly to your belay loop. You do not need a locking carabiner. This keeps the device about 4 inches (10 cm) to your body. This means you can pay out a little more rope with each arm motion. I need to spend more time belaying lead climbers with both of these devices. This will help me decide if this difference is truly noteworthy.

  • DIRECT ANCHOR BELAY FUNCTION

Both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch can belay a second directly off an anchor. This applies in either a single pitch or multi-pitch setting. There are some differences between the two devices to discuss here.

First, taking slack in with the Petzl Neox is extremely easy thanks to the spinning wheel in the housing. When using a hand on both the load and belay line, the rope pulls through the device like a high efficiency pulley. There is very little noticeable friction. This is a blessing for anyone with a bit of elbow tendinitis. Also with the Petzl Neox rope diameter really doesn’t change the amount of effort pulling slack through the device requires.

The Edelrid Pinch feels quite similar in effort to pulling slack with a Petzl GriGri. Thinner ropes will pull easier than thicker ropes.

They cam almost instantly when presented with a load. This is true, for example, when a seconding climber falls. A brake hand must be properly on the rope to provide some resistance on the other side of the device. There have been some dramatic social media videos shared that how the Petzl Neox will not cam for quite some time in the event of a missing brake hand.

Perhaps the Edelrid Pinch will make some climbers feel a little more secure. It does seem to cam more quickly when a brake hand is absent. However, both devices clearly state in their instructions that a brake hand MUST be present. It must be in the correct position to provide resistance on the brake strand side of the device. Neither of these devices are considered “hands free” in any mode of use!

  • FIXED POINT BELAY OF LEAD CLIMBER!

The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used in a Fixed Point Belay orientation. This technique of belaying a leader offers advantages in certain situations. It is the first device I know of that the manufacturer actually approves for this use. I will likely experiment more with this option this winter while testing the Edelrid Pinch ice climbing.

  • LOWERING DIRECTLY FROM ANCHOR

Both devices are capable of lowering smoothly directly from the anchor. Likely the biggest difference here is the Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” feature. This feature is very similar to what Petzl introduced when they released the Petzl GriGri+. By design, if the release lever is pulled too far when lowering, the cam will re-engage. This can happen when lowering from top-rope or directly from the anchor. To continue lowering, the user needs to release the handle back to the start position. Then, pull the handle back down to resume the lower. Alternatively, pull the handle harder to get past the “anti-panic” zone. The latter option is considered “advanced”.

While this “anti-panic” feature is probably good for less experience belayer it might be off-putting to more advanced users. Well Edelrid probably thought of that. They included a small screw. It can be inserted in the device to disable the anti-panic feature. I haven’t disabled the feature yet. I want a little more hands-on experience. This will help me better compare it to the anti-panic feature of the Petzl GriGri+ for a future video.

With either device follow the instructions and redirect your brake strand for a smooth and secure lower.

  • IMPROVISED HAULING FUNCTION

Both devices function almost identical in a hauling set up. As I mentioned in my detailed video on the Petzl Neox, I initially thought the spinning wheel might add efficiency. I was referring to its use in an improvised haul. However, I later realized the wheel is locked when the device is under tension. Therefore, there is no advantage of hauling with a Petzl Neox over a Petzl GriGri or the Edelrid Pinch. They both function well as progress captures and reduce friction efficiency in the hauling system at about the same level. One last minute detail is the Edelrid Pinch can be attached directly to the anchor without a locking carabiner. This saves you about 4 inches (10 cm) of more efficiency. You have fewer resets in your improvised hauling system.

  • SINGLE STRAND RAPPELLING (ABSEILING) FUNCTION

Both devices can be used for a single strand rappel. The big difference between the two is similar to the difference mentioned above in the lowering section. The Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” function which is probably most noticeable during a rappel. If you plan to do a lot of rappelling on a single strand, you might want to disable the anti-panic feature. Consider doing this at some point with the Edelrid Pinch. I recommend keeping it engaged for a few rappels first. This will allow you to see which you would prefer more.

  • ROPE ASCENSION

There is a notable difference in the use of these two devices when ascending a fixed rope. For the most part the Edelrid Pinch feels like a Petzl GriGri as a progress capture during rope ascension. The Petzl Neox makes it noticeably easier to pull rope through the device while standing in your leg loop. This is because the device is not loaded, unlike a haul system, and the wheel spins during that action. On a long rope climb, you will save a little energy with the Petzl Neox. However, exactly how much energy you save is debatable.

  • SUMMARY

Now for the hard part… which device is best for you? The crowning achievement of the Petzl Neox is the device’s ability to efficiently pay out slack. It can also take in slack as if the rope is just traveling through a pulley. The Petzl Neox is extremely beginner friendly requiring no special hand techniques other than quality PBUS belay technique.

The Edelrid Pinch is kind of breaking the mold here being the first Assisted Braking Device that can attach to the anchor point autonomously. This is a very intriguing design choice. It can be backed up easily with a separate locking carabiner if that is desired. Its function is quite similar to the long-time standard Petzl GriGri. It has an anti-panic feature that the user can decide to disable. It also has a really competitive suggested retail price when compared to any other device in this category.

You are probably already considering these two devices. They are likely options if you are in the market for a new Assisted Braking Device. I hope this comparison video has been informative. It has shown you some of the differences, some which are significant and some which are subtle. If you enjoyed this video, please like, share, and subscribe. Your support helps me cover new climbing gear, clothing, and equipment. It will help you get out into the mountains for some adventure!

  • Questions?

Let me know in the comments below and I will do my best to respond in a timely manner!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

A media sample of both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch were provided to the author at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!

Tech Tip: Progress Capture Device (PCD) Belaying Techniques for Recreational Climbers

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , ,

Disclaimer: Some of the techniques discussed in this post require advanced knowledge of technical rope systems in a vertical environment. Subtleties and nuances abound. Seek qualified instruction from an AMGA certified guide or experienced mentor. Climbing is inherently dangerous, you do so at your own risk. Affiliate links below support this blog.

Belaying a Second with a PCD
Using a Petzl Nano Traxion Progress Capture Device to belay my second on low fifth class slab terrain.

For over a year I have caught a few social media posts of highly certified guides belaying their clients non-traditionally with a Progress Capture Device or “PCD”. This technique has crept into the recreational climbers tool kit and for good reason, it has some real real advantages over belaying with a more traditional plaquette (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) or the common Assisted Braking Devices “ABDs” the Petzl Gri Gri 2, Petzl Gri Gri+, the new Petzl Neox.

Choosing to belay with a PCD should be an informed and conscious decision and I hope this post will give you some of the information you should consider when making that decision. The biggest piece of this puzzle simply comes down to appropriate terrain.

  • Terrain– This technique is most suitable of belaying a second in 4th and easy 5th class terrain where the probability of a fall is low and the climber is moving at a higher rate of speed. Basically if the second isn’t moving faster then 1 meter a second (3 feet a second) you likely should belay with a more traditional method like a plaquette or ABD.
Belaying a Second with PCD
This low 5th class slab climbing terrain is one example of where belaying with a PCD might be a good choice
  • Manage Slack– It is imperative with any “toothed” PCD to have minimal slack in the system as the second is climbing. This should be manageable given the lack of resistance when pulling rope, especially through the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Micro Traxion. All three of the PCDs I link below have technical documentation that indicate a load over 4kN or more will lead to sheath damage. If slack is removed while the second climbs, especially towards the end of the pitch when there is less dynamic rope in the system, it should be easy to avoid a 4kN load on the PCD.
Belaying a Second with a PCD
Image from Petzl.com
  • Have Improvised Rescue Skills– This point is well illustrated by the amount of climbers who use plaquette style devices (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) but have yet to practice lowering from a loaded device. As mentioned earlier using a PCD to belay a second should be in terrain where a fall or lower is not expected. If either of those two things could be needed I would likely choose a different belay technique, however, unexpected does happen. If you are experienced enough to belay your second with a PCD you should have a solid understanding of release-able load transfers. You should have the skills to swap a loaded PCD with something that would allow a smooth lower (Munter Hitch, LSD, Gri Gri, etc). Making this transition safely and smoothly is something best learned from a qualified guide or instructor. (These skills are covered and practiced in my custom Self Rescue Course, send a message if interested in that curriculum).
Practicing rock rescue skills
Practicing rock rescue skills

A Comparison Look at Three PCDs

Petzl Tibloc, Nano Traxion, Micro Traxion Comparison
DevicePriceWeightRope Diameter
Petzl Tibloc$54.9536 grams8 – 11mm*
Petzl Nano Traxion$114.9553 grams7 – 11mm*
Petzl Micro Traxion$144.9585 grams7 – 11mm*

* Compatible with the PUR’LINE 6 MM cord only for hauling a pack

* Compatible with the RAD LINE 6 MM cord (more information in the Instructions for Use at http://www.petzl.com)

Petzl Tibloc Climbing Tips

The Petzl Tibloc is obviously the lightest and most affordable of the three Petzl PCDs I’m comparing here. It is well established as an excellent ultralight weight device for glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and improvised rescue. The addition of the spring loaded mechanism to initiate capture on the newest model of the Petzl Tibloc means it can work as a belay for a second, however, the lack of a pulley means you will feel noticeable more resistance when pulling slack through the system. For this reason alone I think it is worth considering one of the other two options from Petzl, especially now that there is a choice that weights only 16 grams more. Additionally, care needs to be used when installing the Petzl Tibloc to insure the rope passes through the locking carabiner and not just the device!

Belaying a Second with a PCD
Image from Petzl.com
Petzl Nano Traxion Climbing Tips

The Petzl Nano Traxion, while costing twice as much as the Petzl Tibloc, has a lot going for it. First, it incorporates a highly efficient (91%) pulley, which makes pulling in slack, regardless of diameter, quite effortless. At only 53 grams it is the lightest PCD + Pulley I have ever tested. Paired with a Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner and a home tied keeper cord this set up has become the newest edition to the back gear loop on my harness.

Belaying a Second with a PCD
Image from Petzl.com
Petzl Micro Traxion Climbing Tips

The Petzl Micro Traxion is the most expensive and heaviest of these options. The only real advantage of this model is the added mechanism that allows you to lock the cam in the open position so you can use the device as a simple pulley. It’s a pretty small addition to justify the additional cost and weight over the Petzl Nano Traxion.

Belaying a Second with a PCD
Context matters. Here I am belaying two fast moving seconds on a YDS 5.1 180 foot long slab pitch. This set up allowed me to keep up with both of them as they climbed the pitch in under 3 minutes.

Compatible Carabiners

My favorite carabiner for all three of these PCDs is the Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner. This small lightweight locking carabiner features a red indicator that aids in visually confirming if it is locked or not and a small hole for attaching a keeper cord to any of these devices. I’m also a fan of the Petzl OK Triact Auto Locking Carabiner and the Petzl OK Ball-Lock Carabiner especially when matched with the Petzl Tibloc.

Deal Alert

Pretty much every product I have linked to in this post is 25% off right now at Backcountry. If you do decide to purchase anything based off the information in this post I really appreciate you using those links. Your support will keep this content coming!

Summary

Climbing techniques continue to evolve with advances in methodology often happening at the highest levels of the sport (certified climbing guides and accredited organizations) and then disseminate to the more general practioners. Belaying with a PCD can lead to efficiency and increased safety in certain climbing situations. Keep in mind the choice should be well informed and consider; terrain, managed slack, and your ability to problem solve unlikely scenarios like needing to transition to an unexpected lower. If you do find yourself in situations where this technique would work for you consider adding the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner to your kit. After 1400 feet of moderate slab climbing this past weekend with two of my friends my elbows were quite happy I was familiar with this option!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created at this blog. Making a purchase after visiting one of the links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!

Black Diamond Beta Light 45L Backpack Review: The Ultimate Ultralight Solution

David Lottmann adventure travel, Backpack Reviews, backpacking, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, hiking, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Wilderness Survival, winter hiking , , , ,
Black Diamond Beta Light 45 Backpack Review

The last few months I’ve been testing out Black Diamond’s newest addition to the ultralight backpack market, the Black Diamond Beta Light 45. I’ve primarily been using it to haul 20 to 30 pounds of climbing gear while running over a dozen climbing trips in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I’ve also carried it with an overnight load on a few search and rescue missions. With over 100 miles of trail use I’m ready to share my thoughts on this pack! First the manufacturer descriptions and technical specifications:

Manufacturer Description

The Beta Light 45L is our answer to the ultralight backpacking revolution. Inspired by our athletes and utilizing a running-vest style suspension harness system from our distance running series packs, the Beta Light 45L is simply built for moving fast on overnight adventures in the backcountry. Whether you’re spending months on the PCT or making the most of a two-week trip, the Beta Light 45L carries all the essentials in a weatherproof, sleek design that doesn’t sacrifice comfort.

Built for moving fast and covering long distances, the Beta Light UL 45 is the ultimate blend of durability, lightweight construction and load carrying comfort. We partnered with Challenge Sailcloth to bring their Ultra 200 body fabric to our Beta Light series to create one of the lightest yet most durable packs on the trail. This durable fabric, combined with taped seams and a roll-top closure, make the pack weatherproof and able to stand up to day-in-day-out use. A simple, Power Mesh stretch pocket and two side pockets provide plenty of external storage options, while the pack’s running-vest inspired shoulder strap harness system provides support and comfort with additional snack pockets and water bottle storage options. A removable hip belt, lightweight aluminum frame, and removable foam back panel provide options for reducing weight even more.

Product Features

  • Challenge Sailcloth Ultra 200 body fabric is lightweight, tear resistant and extremely durable
  • Running vest-inspired shoulder straps with extra storage pockets makes for comfortable and dynamic carrying system
  • Roll-top closure, taped seams and waterproof fabric create weatherproof pack body
  • Removable frame pad gives structure with minimal weight penalty
  • External Power Mesh stretch outer pocket and two oversized ripstop side pockets
  • Removable hip belt system can reduce weight or allow for user modification
  • Four adjustable and removable Dynex core compression straps secure the pack and allow for alternative adjustment and lashing systems
  • Internal sleeve is hydration bladder compatible
  • Modular Design allows quick and secure attachment of the Beta Light Satellite 4L Bag for additional storage
Black Diamond Beta Light 45 Backpack Review

Opinions

Not considering myself a “trail runner” the first thing I noticed when unboxing this pack was the “running-vest” style shoulder strap system. This was the first time I would be using this style suspension system on a pack of this size. I’ll be honest, I was skeptical. For a pack that claims to be able to carry up to 40 pounds how could this style of shoulder strap work out for me? Being open minded helps, and I came to realize you can substitute area for padding of traditional shoulder strap systems and still have quite a comfortable carry. If you’ve never used a running vest style shoulder strap system it may seem weird for a minute. After the first dozen of miles of carrying 30+ loads I saw how these wide contoured thin shoulder straps efficiently distributed the weight in a comfortable manner.

The next aspect of this pack that got my attention is the extremely rugged and light “Ultra 200 Sail Cloth”. It feels like flexible invincible steel. With taped seams and 400 weight on the bottom of the pack I have a lot of confidence in the miles and abuse this pack will handle before any wear is shown. Like many packs of this category they are just made of something different then the old school Nylon Cordura products that had a sub-decade type lifetime. This pack is built to last for more than a decade of adventures, and I’ve been saying it for over a decade consider that when price comparing packs made from less impressive fabrics.

The third standout feature in my opinion is the huge stretchy external back pocket. I used this most often for my chalk bag and my rain jacket, but there’s so much more room here if needed! On a recent SAR mission it easily accepted my full length rolled sleeping pad. The oversized side pockets with angled top designs easily secure traditional 32 ounce wide mount Nalgenes.

As I work my way down the features of this pack I have to appreciate the large roll top opening that lets me dump whole racks of traditional climbing gear, a 60 meter climbing rope, and everything else I need for a day of multi-pitch rock climbing. The roll top closure combined with this fabric makes the pack feel quite water and weather resistant. With limited experience with running style shoulder straps I really liked the stretchy pockets on both shoulder straps using the left side open one to keep my iPhone 13Pro Max secure and accessible and the zippered pocket on the right to stash an assortment of on-the-go snacks.

Summary

While I have a lot of experience testing ultralight backpacks this was the first larger model I’ve tested with a running style shoulder strap system and I can see the merits of this design. Loads up to 30 pounds were quite comfortable to carry and I liked the stream line design of the pack without really any extraneous additions. The pack is made of incredibly robust yet super light fabric and I have no doubt it will hold up well to thousands of miles of adventure. This pack is well designed for Thru-hikers, ultralight backpackers, rock climbers, and mountaineers. If you are interested in shaving some ounces off your 45 liter size backpack while maintaining a comfortable carry and durable design the Black Diamond Beta Light 45 should be on your radar!

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See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

A media sample of this backpack was provided at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

Testing the Petzl Neox: Efficiency in Hauling & Ascension Systems

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips , , , , , , ,

I’ve now had the Petzl Neox for about two weeks and have been able to form some opinions and test it in applications I’m most interested in. The most recent day I spent at the cliff with it was focused on seeing how it performed as a progress capture in an improvised hauling system and in a rope ascension system. Both these uses are important to me for assisting a seconding climber or rescuing an injured lead climber, and places where I would traditionally be using a Petzl GriGri. Here is some raw footage of this round of testing and some of my thoughts.

I assumed the Petzl Neox would work great for progress capture in this systems due to the spinning internal cog wheel and it definitely felt efficient in both the hauling scenario and the rope climbing scenario. I will be doing another round of comparisons with a more realistic full body weight load on the system but the fact the wheel still spun in my rope ascension test leads me to think it will still spin with a full load in a hauling system. This took me a little while to wrap my head around because you can seen when the device sees a full load while single strand rappelling the cam rotates, the wheel stops spinning, and you control your descent with the friction of the rope moving through the created bend. Why wouldn’t the wheel rotate and lock like that while using it as a progress capture?

The answer comes down to physics and while not having anything close to a degree in physics I can see how the device isn’t getting the full load in these scenarios. The full load is on the “tractor”, or friction hitch, or the Petzl Tibloc. When you go to pull slack through the Petzl Neox at that part of the cycle there is almost no weight on the device so the cam does not engage and the wheel spins freely reducing effort in hauling and ascending. When you relax during the hauling process all the load goes back to the Petzl Neox and the cam engages. Same with ascending, when you transfer your weight from your foot loop back to your harness the necessary threshold is exceeded and the cam engages. When you put your weight into your foot loop to progress the weight comes off the device and it is easier to pull the slack through the device then the Petzl GriGri.

Summary

It is still early in our broader exposure to this new belay device but the videos have been pouring out from influencers, highly certified guides, and rock star YouTuber’s. My opinion will likely evolve over the course of the summer as I put more days on the device, and expose more beginner climbers to it. For now I will re-iterate that I really like how easy it is to pull slack while belaying from above, and the more I think about it I do think this device may be in someways safer for a newer belayer as the instructions basically encourage you to not tough the device while paying out slack. This device may help prevent the holding open of the cam at risky moments which was likely part of the motivation of the anti-panic feature that came with the Petzl GriGri+.

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See you in the mountains!

I hope this information is helpful for your to make an informed decision. While Petzl supplied me with a Neox to review this is not a sponsored post. Affiliate links above help me continue to spend time creating these videos and posts and I thank you for your support!

Petzl Neox Assisted Blocking Belay Device: Initial Look

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips , , , , , ,

Today I was able to get out to the cliff for a short bit to check out the newly released assisted blocking belay device, the Petzl Neox.

This is not a full in-depth review. It is a preliminary look at this new option in assisted blocking belay devices and I try to distinguish some of the obvious differences in the Petzl Neox, the Petzl GriGri, and the Petzl GriGri+. As time allows I will be diving more deeply into the topics I mention in the video. In the meantime please check out my initial thoughts and if you haven’t already please subscribe to the YouTube channel so I can keep sharing this type of content with all of you!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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Free Range Equipment Canvas Packs: A Visual Delight for Climbers and Commuters

David Lottmann adventure travel, Backpack Reviews, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Family Travel, Gear Reviews, hiking, hiking, Misc Reviews , , , , , ,

Earlier this year I received a sweet duffle bag and backpack from Free Range Equipment. This small brother & sister company with its roots in the Cascades has partnered with two dozen artists to create an assortment of visually stunning canvas packs. I received the Picket Range Duffel with art by Nikki Frumkin and the Dusk at Shuksan Pack with art by Gianna Andrews. I selected these two packs as I climbed Shuksan in 2017 as my first Cascade summit and during that same trip climbed Rainier and Forbidden Peak which isn’t too far from the Picket Range. I’ve wanted to get back to the Cascades for another climbing trip and the artwork on both these will keep reminding me I need to make a return trip soon!

Free Range Equipment Packs Review

I don’t usually review non-technical packs and these are designed more for travel and day-to-day type use, but I feel I’ve used them enough to share some opinions on them. The craftmanship of both is easily apparent even to the untrained eye. The canvas is thick and rugged, the zippers and stitch work are obviously high quality. The duffle is listed as 55 liters which makes it useful for for everything from a crag bag to regular travel luggage. A concealed backpack system is so concealed I didn’t even realize it was there until my second trip with the pack!

The smaller backpack is listed at 25 liters. It’s a perfect size for a gym or commuter bag and can easily hold my harness, climbing shoes, laptop, water and snacks for a trip to the local park, coffee shop, or climbing gym! It’s got a nice sized internal mesh pocket, a top pocket, etc, but there isn’t to much more for me to comment on with these packs, other than they are eye catching in the best way. I admit I’ve never been artistically talented but I love the style of both these artists and if you take a minute to look through all the offerings on the Free Range website you’ll likely find something that catches your eye.

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See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Media samples were provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you.

My Ice Climbing Kit

David Lottmann adventure travel, Avalanche Courses, Avalanche Gear Reviews, Backcountry Skiing, Backpack Reviews, backpacking, Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Clothing Reviews, Deals on gear!, Electronic Reviews, Footwear Reviews, Gear Reviews, Glove Reviews, hiking, hiking, Ice Climbing, Misc Reviews, Mountaineering, Self-Rescue, Ski Gear Reviews, Tech Tips, Tech Tips, Wilderness Medicine, Wilderness Navigation, Wilderness Survival, winter hiking , , , , , , , ,

While the New England ice climbing season is off to a bit of a sluggish start a follower recently asked if I had a gear list for what I take ice climbing. Thanks for the inspiration for this post Kyle! I’m going to list items in the order that I usually pack my pack.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack Review

I’ve tested over a dozen packs specifically designed for waterfall ice climbing and this pack has held onto my #1 spot for best ice climbing pack. You can find my full review of this pack here.

Patagonia DAS Parka

If there is any chance of mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the reliability of a synthetic insulated belay parka, and the Patagonia DAS Parka is an industry leading choice.

Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket

If there is zero chance of encountering mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the warmth and packability of a down insulated belay parka, and for that the Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket is an excellent choice.

Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hooded Jacket Review

If it is wicked cold out I’ve been known to pack a second light puffy so I can “double up” on my belay jackets. Conversely, if it’s really mild out I might just up for carrying a lighter puffy then the two jackets I mention above. For that the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket is a great choice. You can find my recent detailed review of this one here.

32oz Wide Mouth Nalgene Water Bottle

I typically only carry one 32 ounce wide mouth water bottle for most ice climbing day trips. I do not use any type of insulated parka to keep it from freezing. I just pack in above my belay jackets and close to the small of my back. In the coldest of temps I have never had it freeze when packed up against my back. If I want something with more flavor then water I reach for some of my Skratch Labs stash. If it’s a really cold mission, or a really long day, I also pack an insulated water bottle with some Borvo Broth. This stuff really tastes amazing and is an excellent mid-day energy refresher!

AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit

I use the AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit as my base first aid kit then I add a few things to it that just live inside the kit. Like the Petzl e+lite headlamp, a small knife, and a small Bic lighter. I also slide a SAM splint down into the back sleeve of my backpack along with a CAT tourniquet.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Ice Screw Case

Hyperlight Mountain Gear Prism Ice Pack Review

This case is perfect for packing and protecting my ice screws. I’ve used Petzl and Black Diamond screws for over two decades of ice climbing with few complaints. This season I have swapped out almost my entire rack for a set of the new Blue Ice Aero Ice Screws. I’ll have a review out on these as soon as Mother Nature brings the ice back into condition. For sizes my typical set up is one 22cm, eight 13cm, and one 10cm. If heading to the bigger ice at Willoughby I will add four 17 to 19cm screws. I carry a Grivel Candela V-Thread Tool which conveniently nestles inside my 22cm ice screw. In the zippered pocket in the ice screw case I have some zip ties and the allen wrench for my CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools.

Author on Black Pudding Gully, WI4 – photo by Brent Doscher

For clipping ice screws on lead I highly prefer the Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraws. Notchless wire gate carabiners are the best, and the larger rope side carabiner on these draws is glove friendly. It’s also a better carabiner if you ever climb on a two rope system. I carry 8 of these racked on a Petzl William Screw Locking Carabiner. On this carabiner I also have a “locker draw” that I build from a Petzl Express Quickdraw Sling and two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners. There is also one “alpine draw” built with a 60cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling and two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners clipped to this large locking carabiner, a 180cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling with two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners, and a pre-tied “mini-quad“.

The rest of my climbing hardware is all clipper to a large locking carabiner and includes two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners, my DMM Pivot Belay Device, a 16 foot length of Sterling Power Cord, a traditional 6mm cord tied into a small prussic, a 40cm Edelrid Aramid Cord, and a small carabiner knife.

Inside my Hyperlite Prism Crampon Bag are my Petzl Dart Crampons and I often stuff a pair of Kahtoola MICROspikes in there as well.

Next I stuff my warmer Black Diamond Guide Gloves in. It has to be heinous out there for me to end up switching into these beasts but I won’t risk not being able to keep my hands warm in the winter so these get packed even though I rarely wear them. I do most of my ice leading wearing CAMP USA Geko Ice Pro Gloves and Rab Power Stretch Pro Glove Liners.

Inside my Petzl Sirocco Helmet (review) or Salewa Piuma 3.0 Helmet (I love both these helmets) I pack my preferred ice climbing harness which is the Petzl Sitta (my review) outfitted with three Petzl Caritools.

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon

In the top pocket of my pack I stick my Petzl IKO Core Headlamp along with some hand warmers, my snacks and food for the day. And since I know you are wondering what my favorite on mountain food choice is I’ll share that hands down the best food to take ice climbing is left over pizza from Flatbread NoCo!

For a rope I prefer the Sterling Rope Fushion Nano IX 9mm by 60m rope. It’s a triple rated rope (single, twin, half) so it is ideal for guiding two clients on multi-pitch ice. I have two of them in the bi-pattern.

While I already mentioned it above my ice tools of choice are the CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools. You can find my original in depth review of these tools here.

Finally on the outside of my shoulder strap I clip my Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio. If you’ve been following me for awhile you know I’m a huge fan of these radios. They make climbing & skiing so much better than it was before. Did you know you can get ten percent off of them with code “AlpineStart10”?

Links above are affiliate links. That means if you make a purchase from an online retailer after visiting those links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. These commissions keep this blog afloat. Thank you.

Well that pretty much sums up what I pack for a day of ice climbing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I can go into my clothing system in another post if there is interest. Did I miss anything? What do you bring that I don’t? Got any questions about anything in my kit? Please comment below if you do have a question or if you found this post helpful in anyway. Temperatures are finally getting colder so I’m hoping to get out later this week and actually use this gear for what it is intended for!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Common Use FRS Zone Channels in the White Mountains

David Lottmann adventure travel, Avalanche Courses, Avalanche Gear Reviews, Backcountry Skiing, Climbing Education, Deals on gear!, Electronic Reviews, Gear Reviews, Holiday Gift Guides, Ice Climbing, Misc Reviews, Mountaineering, Self-Rescue, Ski Gear Reviews, Tech Tips, Wilderness Navigation, Wilderness Survival, winter hiking , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

With the welcomed increase of backcountry travelers using FRS and GMRS radios for internal group communication it is time we utilize a “Common Use Zone” system to improve group to group communication in the most popular zones of our region.

Modeled after the Utah Avalanche Center’s “Group to Group Radio Channel Initiative” this system would be for these intended uses:

Intended Uses & Radio Protocols:
  • A way for riders to communicate with people within their party and more importantly communicate with potential groups below and above you and your group.
  • To send a distress call to your group and other parties to aid in self rescue and to alert of potential threatening avalanche hazards.
  • To ask for someone to call 911 to mount an organized rescue, when 911 can’t be reached directly on your own.
  • Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
  • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
  • Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area
Radio Communication between you and your group:
  • Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
  • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
  • Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area
  • General communication
Radio Communication between multiple groups:
  • Route selection and timing to avoid riding directly above other groups
  • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
  • Radio communication when your group is clear of a given line or area, alerting other groups of a clear run-out zone
  • General communication

Here are some examples of the types of communication you might share or hear on these common use zone channels:

“This is Sarah on channel 21 reaching the ridge via the south snowfields. With no signs of instability and inconclusive hand shears our party of three is heading over to the top of Main Gully”

“This is Mark on channel 20, we just pulled out a small wind slab on our approach into Left Gully. Due to poor visibility we are transitioning here and dropping the bottom third of Left in a few minutes.”

“Mayday, mayday, mayday. This is Lisa on channel 19, we have a medical emergency near the base of Yale Gully. We are unable to raise 911. Does any one copy?”

The use of these radios does not take the place of solid decision making and carrying a Personal Locator Beacon like the Garmin inReach Mini 2 that can initiate a rescue if outside of both cell phone service and the limited range of FRS/GMRS radios.

It’s important to understand that most FRS radios are single channel monitoring. Some GMRS radios can monitor two channels simultaneously but may require a license.

The Common Use Zone Channel List*

Tuckerman RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 22
Gulf of SlidesFRS/GMRS Channel 21
East Snowfields & Raymond CataractFRS/GMRS Channel 20
Huntington RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 19
Great GulfFRS/GMRS Channel 18
Burt RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 17
Ammonoosuc RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 16
Oakes Gulf/Dry RiverFRS/GMRS Channel 15
Crawford NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 14
Franconia NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 13
Evans NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 12
GBA GladesFRS/GMRS Channel 11

*No CT or Privacy Codes (0)

In order to send and receive traffic on these channels from other groups you must ensure your radio is not using a CT/DTS privacy code. Check your radio’s user manual on how to turn these privacy codes off (or set to zero).

Recommended Radios

Common Use FRS Zone Channels
The author touring a slide path in Burt Ravine (Channel 17) with his Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio

Rocky Talkie Mountain FRS Radio <- My pick for 95% of people 10% off with “ALPINESTART10”

Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio My pick for professional mountain guides, avalanche course instructors, search & rescue teams 10% off with “ALPINESTART10”

Backcountry Access BC Link 2.0 FRS Radio

Backcountry Access BC Link Mini FRS Radio

Motorola Talkabout T600 H20 2-Way FRS Radios

*Due to using over 2 watts of power of the Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio requires licensing with the FCC. The process is quite simple online, took me about 30 minutes to complete, and cost $35. Detailed instructions how how to obtain a license can be found here. The above links are affiliate links which means if you purchase a radio through these links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

I’m hoping this suggestion becomes widely adapted by our backcountry community. Since a growing percentage of backcountry travelers are already carrying radios it makes good sense that we improve the overall communities safety by adapting a common use zone list like this.

ZONE MAP STICKERS! $2 each!

Common Use FRS Zone Channel Map

3 x 3 inch stickers of the zone map pictured above are available! Put one in your field book and on your skis or board! $2ea., free pickup in Conway, NH, or $1 S&H. Venmo preferred. Please include local pickup or shipping address with payment.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

References

https://utahavalanchecenter.org/education/group-group-radio-channel-initiative

UTILIZING COMMON RADIO CHANNELS IN HIGH-USE AVALANCHE TERRAIN

Rocky Talkie List of Community Channels by State

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