Whitehorse Ledge and Self-Rescue

I spent the last two days with Katie and Chris, a couple from Mass who are quickly becoming more and more proficient in their climbing. Earlier this summer we spent a day together working on building quality top-rope anchors so that they could hit their local MA crags in style and this weekend they returned … Continue reading Whitehorse Ledge and Self-Rescue

Mountain Guide Manual Clinic

Since my copy arrived this past May I've been steadily devouring the massive amount of information contained in Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppolillo's recently published book, The Mountain Guide Manual: The Comprehensive Reference- From Belaying to Rope Systems and Self-Rescue. This past Wednesday I attended one of Marc Chauvin's Mountain Guide Manual Clinic's; the first of three … Continue reading Mountain Guide Manual Clinic

Top Ten Climbing Instruction Books

I recently saw a fellow guide post a picture of his climbing book library and thought it might be helpful to share some of my favorite books in my own personal collection. Early on in my climbing career I simply could not read enough about climbing. Not only did I read every book I could … Continue reading Top Ten Climbing Instruction Books

Eastern Snow Avalanche Workshop, Instructor Refresher Course, and the first signs of winter

Last week I attended two annual events that always get me stoked on the upcoming winter season. The first was the sixth annual Eastern Snow and Avalanche Workshop. I haven't missed one yet and although this one wasn't held at the grand Omni Mount Washington Resort like last year the venue was quite nice (and a lot … Continue reading Eastern Snow Avalanche Workshop, Instructor Refresher Course, and the first signs of winter

AAC- Universal Belay Standard

The American Alpine Club recently released this video in relation to a "Universal Belay Standard". It is really well done and will be included in my new "Skill Zone". If you are a new or experienced climber it's worth a quick watch. Regarding the American Alpine Club I've been a member since 2004. A very worthwhile … Continue reading AAC- Universal Belay Standard

AIARE 2 Avalanche Course

Yesterday concluded our first AIARE 2 Avalanche Course of the season. Despite less than optimal field conditions the course was super productive in large part to the considerable amount of experience brought to the classroom discussions by the varied participants. We were fortunate to have 8000m veteran expeditionary leader Phil Crampton, owner and operator of … Continue reading AIARE 2 Avalanche Course

Champney Fall Ice Climbing 2/9/16

Yesterday I had the opportunity to re-visit an area I haven't been to in quite a few years. Champney Falls, (Pg 138, An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England, 3rd Edition), a beautiful if not somewhat overly crowded top-rope area at times. On a Tuesday, after a busy IceFest weekend, we found some solitude … Continue reading Champney Fall Ice Climbing 2/9/16

Geo-spatial PDF’s, CalTopo, and pre-winter training!

My head is still spinning from some of the info I've been able to pick up this past weekend. It all started Saturday morning with Marc Chauvin's, of Chauvin Guides, informative presentation on creating geo-spatial PDF's that can be uploaded into a smartphone GPS app to supplement your outdoor navigation capabilities. This somewhat esoteric topic is … Continue reading Geo-spatial PDF’s, CalTopo, and pre-winter training!

Sterling Rope Factory Tour

Ever wonder what goes into making your climbing rope? Yesterday I had the opportunity to head over to Sterling Rope in Biddeford, ME with 6 other EMS Guides for a tour of their factory. It is one thing to read a companies credo in a catalog or on their website. It's quite another to experience it … Continue reading Sterling Rope Factory Tour

Wilderness Navigation Course- AMC Pinkham Notch

If you are a regular reader you will have noticed my last post indicated a speed ascent of the Northeast Ridge Pinnacle the following day, followed by two weeks of silence. The reason? My beautiful daughter decided to arrive a couple days early! Madalena Ann Lottmann was born at 7:56pm on August 28th. We are adjusting … Continue reading Wilderness Navigation Course- AMC Pinkham Notch