Do you need to back-up your tie-in knot?

The short answer is no. I recall reading an article in a popular climbing magazine about a decade ago where an IMFGA guide was encouraging climbers to stop "backing up" their tie-in knot. While the logic in the article was quite sound tying "back-up" knots above your standard Figure Eight Follow Through is still somewhat … Continue reading Do you need to back-up your tie-in knot?

Gear for Top Rope Climbing

After teaching an anchor building clinic last week my guest started an email chain with me looking for some specific recommendations on improving his top-rope "kit". After making a few suggestions I realized I get these questions a few times a year and there are probably others out wondering what an optimized top-rope kit looks … Continue reading Gear for Top Rope Climbing

Safety Academy Lab Rock- A free digital training platform for alpine climbing

This is my second year on the Ortovox Athlete Team and it has been so awesome representing such a top tier outdoor clothing and gear company. As an avalanche educator I've relied on Ortovox beacons and shovels for almost a decade and over the last two years I've discovered the difference between run-of-the-mill outdoor clothing … Continue reading Safety Academy Lab Rock- A free digital training platform for alpine climbing

How to: Survive Bug Biting Season (and Giveaway)

Spring in the White Mountains is here! After a long snowy winter many climbers and hikers are chomping at the chance to get on some dry rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, and trail running. Unfortunately in a couple more weeks many insects will be chomping at the chance to chomp on us! Get your bug … Continue reading How to: Survive Bug Biting Season (and Giveaway)

Tech Tip- How Not to Fall while Skiing Tuckerman Ravine

With the arrival of April the Spring skiing (and falling) season has started in Tuckerman Ravine. After watching a couple tumble almost 500 feet down "The Lip" yesterday I thought some advice on fall prevention might be prudent. First tip... Timing The snow conditions in Tuckerman Ravine vary greatly this time of year from day … Continue reading Tech Tip- How Not to Fall while Skiing Tuckerman Ravine

How To: “Belaying in the Gym” by PETZL

Petzl is a well known industry leader in climbing gear and safety. When I first started climbing over 20 years ago I looked forward to each annual Petzl catalog for the wealth of technical information they would include, along with some of the most stunning and inspirational photos! I probably learned as much about climbing … Continue reading How To: “Belaying in the Gym” by PETZL

Tech Tip- Alpine Draws vs Sport Draws for Ice Climbing

I recently conducted an informal survey on a climbing focused Facebook page to determine if what gear I perceive out on our frozen cliffs is an accurate representation of what people are actually carrying. I wasn't too surprised to see the overwhelming majority was using alpine draws (two carabiners and a thin style Dyneema sling … Continue reading Tech Tip- Alpine Draws vs Sport Draws for Ice Climbing

Wilderness Navigation

Today I finished a Wilderness Navigation Course I ran for the MWV Career and Technical Center adult education series. This was the first time I've run this 8 hour course as a multi-day course by having two 2 hour evening classroom sessions followed by a 4 hour field session. Despite a slight scheduling conflict within … Continue reading Wilderness Navigation

Getting Ready for the Ice Climbing Season

Ice season is coming and while it is taking a little longer to get here than last year that gives you a little more time to get your kit together! Here's some content I've previously posted to help you do just that! A little stoke video from my season last winter!   Gear Need to … Continue reading Getting Ready for the Ice Climbing Season

Tech Tip- The Mini-Quad

Originally introduced in the 2006 version of John Long's Climbing Anchors book the "Quad" took a few years to start being adapted by both guides and recreational climbers alike. Now, ten years later, it has really started to gain widespread popularity for the simplified way it can create ERNEST* anchors, especially when building anchors on two … Continue reading Tech Tip- The Mini-Quad