The first knot most climbers learn is the “Retraced Figure Eight” knot. While a minority of climbers choose to connect the rope to their harness with a double bowline knot most of the climbing guides and instructors I have met greatly prefer to the more easily recognizable Figure Eight. Since there are a few ways to create a retraced Figure of Eight there is only one way that is becoming more known as “ideal”. When all these points are met I refer to this as the “Optimized” Figure Eight Knot.
Only the amount of rope needed to create the knot is used
The loop that has captured the harness tie-in point is no larger then the belay loop
All the strands are parallel with no cross overs
After all four strands exiting the knot are “dressed & stressed” there is only 6 inches of tail
The load strand entering the knot ends up on the “inside” of the knot
Your partner checks your knot before you start climbing
In this video I demonstrate the methods I use to tie this correctly each time.
There is a really in-depth look at this by “Hard is Easy” on YouTube here, though I use a mirror image of his method to achieve the same result. There are also some great pictures showing some of the nuances over at Alpine Savvy.
Do you tie your eight like this? Any questions or comments? Please let me know below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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“The Fairy Tale Traverse”, Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle, Huntington Ravine, Mount Washington. Photo by Peter Brandon
Oftentimes we have anchors that are set back from the cliff edge. If we belay at these anchors communication can be hampered. In this video I demonstrate some of the methods you can use to extend yourself back to a position to improve communication (and provide better photo opportunities!).
A question from a follower last week asked “Can I just estimate the length, clove in, and leave my belay device up at the anchor?”. While that could work, it is generally a better practice to keep your belay device within arms reach. In the event you need to lower your partner, or build a 3:1 haul system to help them, it is more easily handled when the belay device is still within reach.
Another great way to improve communication is to climb with a pair of Rocky Talkies! These radios are incredibly rugged, lightweight, and are so much better to use than straining your vocal cords yelling “off belay” from 50 meters away. You can use promo code “AlpineStart10” at this link to get 10% off your own set of Rocky Talkies! A portion of every sale also sends money to Search & Rescue teams so I am quite proud to support this company!
If you found this video useful please take the time to like and subscribe so that I can keep putting effort into creating instruction videos like this one! Also you have any questions or comments please let me know below!
Affiliate links above support the content created on this blog. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
While the New England ice climbing season is off to a bit of a sluggish start a follower recently asked if I had a gear list for what I take ice climbing. Thanks for the inspiration for this post Kyle! I’m going to list items in the order that I usually pack my pack.
I’ve tested over a dozen packs specifically designed for waterfall ice climbing and this pack has held onto my #1 spot for best ice climbing pack. You can find my full review of this pack here.
If there is any chance of mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the reliability of a synthetic insulated belay parka, and the Patagonia DAS Parka is an industry leading choice.
If there is zero chance of encountering mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the warmth and packability of a down insulated belay parka, and for that the Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket is an excellent choice.
If it is wicked cold out I’ve been known to pack a second light puffy so I can “double up” on my belay jackets. Conversely, if it’s really mild out I might just up for carrying a lighter puffy then the two jackets I mention above. For that the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket is a great choice. You can find my recent detailed review of this one here.
I typically only carry one 32 ounce wide mouth water bottle for most ice climbing day trips. I do not use any type of insulated parka to keep it from freezing. I just pack in above my belay jackets and close to the small of my back. In the coldest of temps I have never had it freeze when packed up against my back. If I want something with more flavor then water I reach for some of my Skratch Labs stash. If it’s a really cold mission, or a really long day, I also pack an insulated water bottle with some Borvo Broth. This stuff really tastes amazing and is an excellent mid-day energy refresher!
This case is perfect for packing and protecting my ice screws. I’ve used Petzl and Black Diamond screws for over two decades of ice climbing with few complaints. This season I have swapped out almost my entire rack for a set of the new Blue Ice Aero Ice Screws. I’ll have a review out on these as soon as Mother Nature brings the ice back into condition. For sizes my typical set up is one 22cm, eight 13cm, and one 10cm. If heading to the bigger ice at Willoughby I will add four 17 to 19cm screws. I carry a Grivel Candela V-Thread Tool which conveniently nestles inside my 22cm ice screw. In the zippered pocket in the ice screw case I have some zip ties and the allen wrench for my CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools.
Author on Black Pudding Gully, WI4 – photo by Brent Doscher
Next I stuff my warmer Black Diamond Guide Gloves in. It has to be heinous out there for me to end up switching into these beasts but I won’t risk not being able to keep my hands warm in the winter so these get packed even though I rarely wear them. I do most of my ice leading wearing CAMP USA Geko Ice Pro Gloves and Rab Power Stretch Pro Glove Liners.
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon
In the top pocket of my pack I stick my Petzl IKO Core Headlamp along with some hand warmers, my snacks and food for the day. And since I know you are wondering what my favorite on mountain food choice is I’ll share that hands down the best food to take ice climbing is left over pizza from Flatbread NoCo!
For a rope I prefer the Sterling Rope Fushion Nano IX 9mm by 60m rope. It’s a triple rated rope (single, twin, half) so it is ideal for guiding two clients on multi-pitch ice. I have two of them in the bi-pattern.
While I already mentioned it above my ice tools of choice are the CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools. You can find my original in depth review of these tools here.
Finally on the outside of my shoulder strap I clip my Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio. If you’ve been following me for awhile you know I’m a huge fan of these radios. They make climbing & skiing so much better than it was before. Did you know you can get ten percent off of them with code “AlpineStart10”?
Links above are affiliate links. That means if you make a purchase from an online retailer after visiting those links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. These commissions keep this blog afloat. Thank you.
Well that pretty much sums up what I pack for a day of ice climbing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I can go into my clothing system in another post if there is interest. Did I miss anything? What do you bring that I don’t? Got any questions about anything in my kit? Please comment below if you do have a question or if you found this post helpful in anyway. Temperatures are finally getting colder so I’m hoping to get out later this week and actually use this gear for what it is intended for!
With the welcomed increase of backcountry travelers using FRS and GMRS radios for internal group communication it is time we utilize a “Common Use Zone” system to improve group to group communication in the most popular zones of our region.
Modeled after the Utah Avalanche Center’s “Group to Group Radio Channel Initiative” this system would be for these intended uses:
Intended Uses & Radio Protocols:
A way for riders to communicate with people within their party and more importantly communicate with potential groups below and above you and your group.
To send a distress call to your group and other parties to aid in self rescue and to alert of potential threatening avalanche hazards.
To ask for someone to call 911 to mount an organized rescue, when 911 can’t be reached directly on your own.
Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area
Radio Communication between you and your group:
Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area
General communication
Radio Communication between multiple groups:
Route selection and timing to avoid riding directly above other groups
Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
Radio communication when your group is clear of a given line or area, alerting other groups of a clear run-out zone
General communication
Here are some examples of the types of communication you might share or hear on these common use zone channels:
“This is Sarah on channel 21 reaching the ridge via the south snowfields. With no signs of instability and inconclusive hand shears our party of three is heading over to the top of Main Gully”
“This is Mark on channel 20, we just pulled out a small wind slab on our approach into Left Gully. Due to poor visibility we are transitioning here and dropping the bottom third of Left in a few minutes.”
“Mayday, mayday, mayday. This is Lisa on channel 19, we have a medical emergency near the base of Yale Gully. We are unable to raise 911. Does any one copy?”
The use of these radios does not take the place of solid decision making and carrying a Personal Locator Beacon like the Garmin inReach Mini 2 that can initiate a rescue if outside of both cell phone service and the limited range of FRS/GMRS radios.
It’s important to understand that most FRS radios are single channel monitoring. Some GMRS radios can monitor two channels simultaneously but may require a license.
The Common Use Zone Channel List*
Tuckerman Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 22
Gulf of Slides
FRS/GMRS Channel 21
East Snowfields & Raymond Cataract
FRS/GMRS Channel 20
Huntington Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 19
Great Gulf
FRS/GMRS Channel 18
Burt Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 17
Ammonoosuc Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 16
Oakes Gulf/Dry River
FRS/GMRS Channel 15
Crawford Notch
FRS/GMRS Channel 14
Franconia Notch
FRS/GMRS Channel 13
Evans Notch
FRS/GMRS Channel 12
GBA Glades
FRS/GMRS Channel 11
*No CT or Privacy Codes (0)
In order to send and receive traffic on these channels from other groups you must ensure your radio is not using a CT/DTS privacy code. Check your radio’s user manual on how to turn these privacy codes off (or set to zero).
Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio My pick for professional mountain guides, avalanche course instructors, search & rescue teams 10% off with “ALPINESTART10”
*Due to using over 2 watts of power of the Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio requires licensing with the FCC. The process is quite simple online, took me about 30 minutes to complete, and cost $35. Detailed instructions how how to obtain a license can be found here. The above links are affiliate links which means if you purchase a radio through these links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.
I’m hoping this suggestion becomes widely adapted by our backcountry community. Since a growing percentage of backcountry travelers are already carrying radios it makes good sense that we improve the overall communities safety by adapting a common use zone list like this.
ZONE MAP STICKERS! $2 each!
3 x 3 inch stickers of the zone map pictured above are available! Put one in your field book and on your skis or board! $2ea., free pickup in Conway, NH, or $1 S&H. Venmo preferred. Please include local pickup or shipping address with payment.
Yesterday I posed the question, “What are the conditions that promote the growth of Surface Hoar”. There were many correct answers. Let’s dive a little deeper into the conditions and take it beyond the level 1 understanding.
In my AIARE 1 avalanche courses I teach students to remember the three “C’s” that promote the growth of surface hoar.
Cold- Unsurprisingly it needs to be below freezing (32°F, 0ºC) for surface hoar to form.
Clear- The mechanisms that drive the growth of surface hoar require rapid radiative heat loss from the snowpack. This only occurs on clear nights. Cloud cover has an insulating effect on the earth and pretty much prevents the type of heat loss needed for this process to occur.
Calm- Surface hoar crystals, once formed, are vulnerable to moderate wind speeds. The ice forms have very little horizontal strength, and if you find a pocket of decent sized surface hoar you can test this easily by getting close to the crystals and giving them a hearty blow of air from your own lungs.
That is pretty much the level 1 type knowledge I instill in my students. Now let’s dive deeper into other important considerations that contribute to the snowpack’s ability to form surface hoar.
Humidity & Dewpoint– Basically surface hoar is winter’s equivalent of “dew”. There must be a high level of humidity (over 70%) in the air right at ground level.
Air movement– Since the crystal growth of surface hoar is removing vapor (moisture) from the air as it grows that moisture must be replaced for the crystals to keep growing. The air movement required is so light that an observer would record “calm” for wind speed.
Temperature Inversion/Gradient– A strong inverted temperature gradient is needed right at the snow surface. This gradient is best achieved by the rapid radiative heat loss scenario promoted by cold clear nights. Even a light breeze will remove this ground level inversion and inhibit growth.
Now that we’ve gotten the sciencey weather stuff out of the way let’s get into some practical terrain considerations for the topic.
Sheltered/Lee– Since we know any noticeable wind inhibits surface hoar growth we can expect to find it in areas protected from the wind, i.e. lee.
Canopy– Because surface hoar requires rapid radiative heat loss any tree canopy will inhibit growth. Surface hoar is often found in clearings that are not obstructed by any tree cover.
Aspect– It is reasonable to assume northern aspects may be more likely to grow surface hoar as they are colder aspects. In areas with predominant west winds (White Mountains) you may have more luck finding surface hoar on your North to East aspects.
Elevation– Since above treeline conditions rarely promote the growth of surface hoar this weak layer is more common below treeline, and in the right conditions middle elevations.
Slope Angle– Surface hoar has what is called “anisotropic” structure. What this basically means is it is strong on the vertical axis and very weak on the horizontal axis. This property is the main reason it is such a reactive weak layer when buried by new snow. Its ability to withstand gradual increases in load until it reaches its breaking point is why in certain snow climates it’s the primary issue for human triggered avalanches. It is also why you would not expect this in steeper start zones. In the rare case of this forming on a 40 degree start zone of an alpine gully any cohesive snow that falls on top of it will quickly overwhelm its horizontal strength. Field observations show this is a common layer for remotely triggering avalanches on flat terrain. Twenty five degree rollovers are also commonly triggered on surface hoar.
Slope Shape– Research shows that concave slopes inhibit growth. This is due to the reduced radiative heat loss on concave slopes. Conversely, convex slopes may see more progressive growth as they can accelerate rapid radiative heat loss and a stronger surface left temperature gradient. Yet another reason convexities on a slope are common trigger points.
Proximity to Water– Because the ground level humidity needs replenishment you can often find this growing next to creeks, streams, and steam “vents”. These “vents” are pretty cool, even on a negative temperature day if you stick your thermometer in one of them you’ll find the air temp hovering around freezing (32°F, 0ºC).
Snow Climate– The prior mentioned weather conditions are most common in Continental (Rocky Mountain) snow climates. Surface hoar can, and does, form in any snow climate, but it’s most prevalent in Continental snow climates.
Local Examples– I have found a few places in Mount Washington Valley that I consider “surface hoar farms”.
The most reliable spot I have found is just south of the trestle cut at the top of Crawford Notch where some sheltered steam vents on the west side of the tracks often have surface hoar crystals around them. Unfortunately the railroad is active this winter and no trespassing signs are posted so I don’t recommend heading there.
The field just outside the AMC Highland Center has had some brilliant surface hoar displays over the years through they are usually short lived as calm clear weather doesn’t last long at the top of the notch.
The base of the Cog Railway has small slopes that have produced some of the largest surface hoar crystals I have ever seen in person, some up to 4 centimeters in size!
I’ll often find small pockets on the sides of the Tuckerman Ravine Trail but the spot on the east side of Mount Washington I’ve had the most luck is on the Summer Lion Head trail, right as the trail steepens and crosses an old avalanche path there are a couple small steam vents on the left side that have a clear view of the sky (thanks to old avalanche activity).
Summary– Well that’s about it for my brain dump on surface hoar. Hope you’ve learned something new about what is likely my favorite type of ice formation. For more reading you can check out The Avalanche Handbook. It’s where most of my information is derived and a great resource for those who really want to dive into the minutiae of avalanche formation.
Learn more about this innovative snow safety tool here and enter to win one for free by clicking this link! Contest ends on at 8PM EST on 12/24/2023!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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I’ve been testing the new Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody since early October and after a half dozen trips into the alpine with it I’m ready to share my thoughts.
TLDR Version: This is an outstanding addition to the “light puffy” market and I’m stoked to have this in my current rotation of outdoor clothes.
How I Tested: Two ice climbing trips to Mount Willard, an ice climbing trip into Tuckerman Ravine, two Mount Washington attempts (one successful summit, one bail at Lion Head due to very poor visibility and extreme winds higher)
Before I get into my personal opinions on this jacket let’s look at the manufacturer description and specifications:
Manufacturer Description:
The perfect layer for backcountry rock walls, big alpine faces, and frigid weekend ski tours, the Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody is the ultimate in dynamic four-season insulation that breathes efficiently and stretches with your every movement. The jacket packed with migration-resistant Primaloft Gold Active, maintaining breathability during even the most intense high-output pursuits. The 20D nylon ripstop face fabric and stretch liner resists weather and encourages full range of motion, while remaining incredibly durable through rugged talus, brushy approaches and daily use. Additional features include an adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood, a low-profile, single-adjust hem and a highly packable design that stuffs into the internal stretch mesh pocket and clips onto your harness, all your needs are covered. Fit and overall design has been entirely overhauled for 2023.
PRODUCT FEATURES
Migration-resistant PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation
20D nylon ripstop face fabric with PFC-free DWR Technology
Lightweight, stretch lining for added breathability
Mapped insulation throughout body, shoulders, and arms
Adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood with drawcord adjustment
Underarm gussets for added range of motion
Low-profile, single-adjust hem
Stows in internal left hand pocket with carabiner clip loop
Two concealed-zip hand pockets
Primary fabric is Bluesign approved
ECO Label Status
Fit: Regular
Claimed Weight: 14.29 ounces
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon
Personal Opinions:
The “light puffy” has become a staple in my winter outdoor clothing scheme. My biggest requirements in a quality piece are; high warmth to weight ratio, high breathability, high packability, decent water resistance, wind proof, well fitting. The Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody checks all the boxes!
High Warmth to Weight Ratio: Black Diamond uses mapped PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation. Primaloft® Gold is one of the best synthetic insulators available with a CLO value of 0.92, which is roughly equivalent to the warmth of 500 or 550 fill-power down and achieves 98% thermal efficiency (and still retains heat if it gets wet, unlike down). The nylon shell fabric is lightweight and soft to the touch, allowing for the whole jacket to weight less than a pound. For a synthetic insulated hooded jacket this is quite impressive, so I give this a 5/5 in the warmth to weight ration category!
High Breathability: The biggest test of the breathability of this jacket came yesterday as I was breaking trail in thigh deep new snow from tree line to the summit cone on Mount Washington. Temps were 6 degrees Fahrenheit (-14 Celcius), winds were around 40 mph (64 Kph), and the wind chill was about -23 Fahrenheit (-30 Celcius). The uphill battle was slow going and a bit exhausting. I needed more than my base layers and soft shell jacket to stay comfortable but I was working pretty hard. I pulled this on over my soft shell and kept working uphill thinking I’d likely start to overheat soon and need to take it off. That didn’t happen and I reached the summit with it still on. So it is definitely breathable. I didn’t take it off until I was back to tree line and out of the wind for the quick walk back to the trailhead.
High Packability: While similar down jackets can pack smaller I prefer the extra insurance of synthetic for my light puffy jackets and only have one big down parka these days that is always in my pack for the most arctic of trips. Despite being a synthetic hooded jacket I am impressed with the Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody ability to get small. Without much coaching it will pack into it’s own zipper right side hand pocket at takes up just a little more space then your standard wide mouth Nalgene water bottle.
Decent Water Resistance: Black Diamond uses pretty standard PFC-free DWR Technology to give this jacket some water resistance. I was only exposed to a little dripping water on a warmish ascent of Hitchcock Gully earlier this year and as expected any drops that hit me just rolled off the fabric. Since it is a synthetic and not down I’m less concerned about how water resistant a light synthetic puffy is as I will still pack a hardshell if there is a significant chance of liquid precipitation on my trip.
Wind Proof: 100% this jacket is indeed windproof as I tested it in those 40+mph conditions I mentioned above. All I can really add here is I am impressed with how windproof the jacket seems while being so breathable at the same time. Must be the 20 denier fabric that Black Diamond used for the shell fabric, it just strikes the right balance in this regard.
Well Fitting: Ok I kind of saved the best for last here. I love the way this jacket fits and movies. Black Diamond says it’s a “regular” fit and while that means it isn’t supposed to fit like your tapered skinny jeans I don’t find the fit to be too bulky at all either. For my 5’9″ 185 pound frame the large fits over my skin layers and soft shell jacket perfectly. The length is perfect for tucking in under my climbing harness, and the stretchy panels under the arms keep in tucked in while I’m ice climbing and raising my hands far above my head often. The insulated hood is comfortable and well fitting with or without a climbing helmet on thanks to the drawcord adjustment. The fit is somehow technical while casual as I’ve found myself grabbing this jacket for everyday where and not just saving it for mountain missions.
Summary: The synthetic light weight hooded jacket is one of my favorite categories of gear to test. You can find many of my reviews of this style of jacket over the years on my review page. If your “light puffy” is ready for replacement or upgrade, or you have yet to add the “light puffy” to your outdoor wardrobe, I highly suggest you check the Black Diamond First Light Hooded Jacket out!
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This winter the Conway Scenic Railroad will be running trains through Crawford Notch State Park. Despite a long history climbers being able to access the ice climbing in the area by conveniently walking along the train tracks this may change. Here is what you should know.
These signs refer to the state law regarding traveling on an active railroad. Specifically:
381:14 Criminal Trespass on Railroad Property. – Any person who enters or remains in a railroad station, upon the platform or grounds adjacent to a station, or upon any property of a railroad knowingly without license or privilege to do so, or a person who enters or remains upon or returns to said property in defiance of an order of a station agent or any police officer shall be guilty of criminal trespass as provided in RSA 635:2.
Simply put, you could be charged with a misdemeanor and end up with a fine.
I have heard talks will be happening between parties who this would effect, likely guide services, snowmobile rental companies, and the NH DOT and NH Department of Tourism to see if a solution could be worked out that is amicable to all parties involved, including recreationalists. Whether this speculation works out or not is to be determined.
In the meantime I have some advice on how we, as a climbing community, can not do damage to the efforts that are being started to protect our access to one of the greatest ice climbing destinations in the world.
First, BE COOL. I’ve already seen knee-jerk statements being made on social media. We don’t need to use language like “this battle”. It’s not there yet and hopefully won’t ever be. Don’t feel ENTITLED. Regardless of “what you’ve done for 10+ years”, NH has laws protecting private property owners rights. That’s life. Don’t blame it all on a land/business owner. There are state laws that supersede any decision a business owner might make about running their business.
Use approaches that minimize or eliminate any travel on the tracks
To that end I offer these maps to help you figure out the best way to get to the climbs you are trying to get to. First, for the southern area of Frankenstein (basically the Amphitheater and Lost in the Woods area) use the Frankenstein Cliff Hiking Trail, accessible from both the upper and lower parking lots.
DO NOT climb in the Trestle Cut Flows area this winter. These climbs are just too close to the tracks.
For accessing the northern climbs at Frankenstein (Hanging Gardens, Dracula, Standard Route) use the alternate northern approach shown on this map.
This approach, while you have to climb about 170 feet in elevation from the road, is actually quite a bit faster then the tradition approach along the tracks. It only takes about 15 minutes and puts you within .2 miles of the base of Standard Route. As soon as you can get off the tracks do so. For example, if heading to Standard Route take the approach up towards Hanging Gardens, then follow the climber’s path under Dropline, Penguin, and over to Standard.
DO NOT leave backpacks at the base of Standard Route. Ok, I’m going to climb up on a little soap box for a moment on this one. Why do people leave their backpacks at the bottom of a three pitch ice climb with a walk off? It has never made sense to me. After racking up for multi-pitch ice what is left in my backpack? My belay jacket. My food and water. My first aid kit. My headlamp. My extra gloves. Why would I leave this less-then ten pound backpack on the ground while I leave on a 2 hour adventure? You can climb Grade 3 ice with a backpack on. Trust me.
Ok, off my soap box and on to Mount Willard. This area is much harder to access without using the tracks. For the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and Cinema Gully, use the Hattie Trail approach shown on the map below. Like the northern approach at Frankenstein this is actually faster then the traditional approach from the climber’s parking lot at the top of the notch. You’ll have to gain about 300 feet of elevation from the road but it takes about 20 minutes and puts you within 700 feet of the base of Cinema.
The harder to reach climbs are unfortunately the most popular on Willard, Hitchcock Gully and Left Hand Monkey Wrench. There is just no real alternative to getting to these routes without significant time traveling along the tracks.
The purpose of this post is not stir any controversy or debate but to inform the reader of alternate options and behaviors that will hopefully reduce the possibility of any negative encounters with the railroad employees and climbers. My personal hope is that the railroad comes to see the sight of ice climbers scaling frozen waterfalls near the train as a selling feature for their passengers, something that adds value to the tickets they purchased. Just think about that 8 year kid with his face plastered to the train window when he spots a climber high up on Standard Route as the train passes through… he might just get inspired and grow up to become the next Zac St Jules.
Finally, the last thing we can all do this season is maybe spend a bit more time visiting OTHER climbing areas that don’t require legally questionable approaches. I know it’s been awhile since I’ve been out to Texaco Amphitheater and Arethusa Falls, both close by. I have never been out to Mount Avalon but I have friends that go there ever year. This is my winter to check that place out. The North End of Cathedral is often swamped but the nearby Barking Dog area just past Humphrey’s Ledge is pretty cool. Silver Cascade and The Flume are right across the street from Willard and offer lots of fun pitches of snow & ice climbing. I haven’t been to Grafton Notch yet either so I’m adding that to my list this year.
If you do choose to travel on the tracks do so informed that technically, it is illegal. Whether that will start being enforced or changed could largely be up to how any interactions occur between climbers and train employees. Smiles, waves, and politeness can possibly see us through this uncertain time while those who have a bigger seat at the table look for solutions. Patience and kindness. I hope this info helps.
Today only, Monday, November 27th, 2023, you can book an adventure or course with Northeast Mountaineering and save some serious moo-lah! Basically if you book one of these adventures today you get to bring a friend for free! I’m going to share exactly what programs are eligible and what the out of pocket cost per person would be if you decide to split this adventure with your adventure buddy, starting with the absolute best deal of them all!
AIARE 1 Avalanche Course $550 ($275pp)
Photo courtesy of Alexander Robert
This is by far the most affordable way this season to get this essential course for anyone looking to spend time in avalanche terrain touring, ice climbing, or mountaineering. It’s a three day course that covers a semester worth of information in a mix of class room and field sessions. This education hasn’t been this affordable since I took my first avalanche course two decades ago. Grab your touring partner and sign up for this today while we still have many dates available! Sign up here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM” to be able to bring your friend for free! Discount lodging at the NEM Bunkhouse is also available!
AIARE Avalanche Rescue Course $195 ($97.50pp)
Buried to my waist in an avalanche I remotely triggered… this rescue went smoothly
This 8 hour course is for anyone who might venture into avalanche terrain. It is designed for anyone who has yet to take a formal avalanche course like the AIARE 1 mentioned above, anyone looking to take their AIARE 2 course listed below, or anyone who hasn’t refreshed their avalanche rescue skills in awhile. A little bit of classroom followed by a lot of in the field realistic avalanche rescue practice. Time and money well spent! We only have two dates open this season so don’t delay grabbing a spot for you and your partner here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”. Discount lodging at the NEM Bunkhouse is also available!
Ice Climbing $325 ($162.50pp)
Author on Drool of the Beast (Grade 5), photo courtesy of Brent Doscher
Been curious about expanding your climbing season to the frozen months? Use this Cyber Monday deal to make it attainable! Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.
Introduction to Backcountry Skiing $325 ($162.50pp)
Photo courtesy of Erik Howes
Are you an expert skier at the resorts and looking to take adventure to the next level? Our backcountry ski skills course is jammed packed with necessary skills to get your shredding the pow out of bounds and away from the lines. Skiing the backcountry is about freedom and adventure. Out here, you earn your turns – but as you will discover the uphill travel is just as rewarding as the downhill descent.
Participants need to be competent skiing intermediate [blue] terrain at their local ski hill. The outdoor portion of this course may be held at Pinkham Notch or in Crawford Notch if condition allow it may also be held at one of the local ski hills with an uphill policy.
Backcountry Ski Touring $325 ($162.50pp)
Photo courtesy of Corey Fitzgerald
Already have your basic backcountry ski skills dialed and looking to expand your skill set? This course is designed to get you into more involved terrain like the more advanced Granite Backcountry Alliance glades and areas like Gulf of Slides, Tuckerman Ravine, Burt Ravine, etc.
This course is for the proficient backcountry tourer who wants to work on some more technical skills like snow anchors, roped/glacier movement, rappelling, and more to access the most difficult of ski terrain.
One Day Mountaineering Skills Course $295 ($147.50pp)
If you’ve never worn mountaineering boots or practiced “self-arrest” with an ice axe this is the course for you. Learn the foundation of skills that will help you travel in the mountains during winter more safely and comfortably. This is an excellent course for those pursuing the winter 4000 footers!
Have some bigger mountains on your bucket list? You don’t need to travel out west to hone the skills needed to do so safely and efficiently. This course covers the rope skills used to manage risk on glaciers and includes learning about improvised hauling systems, mechanical rope ascension, and crevasse recognition and avoidance.
Ready to attempt the biggest peak in the northeast in winter? This summit attempt is more than just a climb of the peak. Along the way your guide will teach you about proper preparation, common cold weather injuries and prevention, avalanche awareness, navigation, and more. No prior winter hiking experience is necessary but good fitness is key. The one day Winter Mountaineering Skills course above is often booked before this course if you want to feel best prepared for the day!
There isn’t much! Just book at the direct links I provided today before midnight PST (3am Tuesday EST). Make sure you put “DAVIDNEM” in the promo code to receive the special deal. Booking through the website does not guarantee I will be your guide for the chosen adventure, though if I am available on that date I will be your assigned guide. You can reach out to me at the contact info below with your requested dates and I will get back to you by this evening. My winter season is pretty well booked so far but I do have some mid-week availability still.
This is the single biggest sale I have seen a guide service offer in recent years, so if you’ve been looking for a bargain on quality experiences and education, this… is… it!
CONTACT INFO: You can use the contact form at the bottom of this page to send me a message, or email me at nealpinestart@gmail.com, or message me through my Instagram
In the summer of 1994 a reluctant long-haired 15 year old camper at Horton Center was tied into a climbing rope at the base of Chapel Rock and coached up his first rock climb, a 60-foot moderate with expansive views of Pinkham and Carter Notch (though he didn’t know the name of these notches at the time). About halfway up the climb, he looked to the right and noted the contrast of rugged green mountains, crystal blue sky, and vertically displayed granite. Something in his adolescent mind clicked, and he went on to pursue a lifetime of climbing and guiding around New England, out west, and abroad.
Almost thirty years later an alumni of Horton Center reached out to this former camper having found an old blog post he wrote about some of the climbing on the nearby East Face of Pine Mountain and extended an invitation to revisit the area in an effort to open up new climbing possibilities for the campers.
Of course the former camper was excited to revisit and contribute to this beautiful White Mountain crag that sits just below the North Peak of Pine Mountain. After a few weeks of research it is with great pleasure that I present this info on the climbing at Chapel Rock, 30 years after my first time climbing this crag, and invite you to come enjoy this scenic cliff.
History
Climbing at Chapel Rock (also known as the North Peak of Pine Mountain) possibly started as early as the 1940s and 1950s with the formation of the 10th Mountain Division and the need to train soldiers in the art of technical climbing in order to effectively fight in the World War II European theater. A hand-illustrated book by Dwight Bradley and Tad Pfeffer (Obscure Crags Guide- A Guide to Obscure Cliffs in New Hampshire, and Some in Maine and Vermont), publication date 1972 or 19731, offers this description:
“This small cliff could easily quality [sic] as a one pitch roadside practice rock if it wasn’t for the fact that the road is closed to the public. The small size of the cliff makes it almost not worth the relatively long approach: the cliff is 60’ or 70’ and the walk in is about two miles. It is a really solid, pretty little piece of rock, though loaded with cracks and corners and almost dirt-free. The vertically jointed rock is quartz schist of the Littleton formation.
The climbs are numbered. Seriously. Numbers have been painted on the rock. For instance, numbers one and two are parallel low angle flakes which may be laybacked no hands, and number four is a clean dihedral. The story behind these numbers is that the Green Berets train here (as well as at the E. Face of Pine) during their annual June war games. The rock is studded with rusty Army pins. Those guys must aid everything. To make matters worse, somebody found the time to place a bolt right next to a perfect MOAC placement on the summit.
To get there, take the WMNF Pine Mtn. Tr., which is a road (closed to cars), all the way to its end at the Channel 10 TV tower. From the broadcasting station, a set of powerlines leads E, passing the cliff’s base in about 100 yards. A small trail leads down from the summit, which is occupied by an old rugged cross, making for a quick descent.”
Paul Cormier, who was a camper at Horton Center in the 1960s, recalls the military using the cliffs for training and has shared interesting photos of him performing a Dufersitz rappel and nailing out the impressive looking central nose feature (see photo section). He estimates that Ian Turnbell placed a few of the current bolted anchors about 15 years ago (around 2008?).
(Paul Cormier using the Dülfersitz rappel method at Chapel Rock, circa. 1968)
(Paul Cormier aid climbing the thin seam that comes out the right side of the impressive central “nose”. A keen eye can find the pin scars today from this ascent)
(Paul turning the corner of the roof. Note his brother with the attentive hip belay)
Ian Turnbell, the brother-in-law of Tad Pferrer, co-author of the guidebook mentioned above, also climbed here in the late 1970s and early 1990s. He recalls placing 4 or 5 of the anchors in the late 1980s but isn’t quite sure of the exact dates. He clearly recalls the anchor above Storybook getting moved and I can confirm this was the situation when I checked the site in Fall 2023. There are two bolts without hangers to the right of the current three bolt Storybook anchor.
In 1997 Al Simons and Steve Buck placed or replaced the bolted anchors on Storybook and Easy Rider, which is probably when the Storybook anchor was moved. Other anchors that were probably placed (or replaced) at that time are a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of “The Flake”. A two bolt anchor at the top of “Whistling in the Dark” which is set a bit far back from the edge and has no chains. This will be one of the first anchors I try to replace with a modern glue-in anchor that is below the lip of the cliff. Another two-bolt anchor with chains is at the top of Easy Rider. It should be noted that the camp leaves locking carabiners on these chains during the camp season to facilitate their climbing program. If you find any locking carabiners on any of the fixed anchors at this privately-owned crag please leave them in place. There may also be fixed ropes above these bolted anchors that counselors leave in place to help with accessing these anchors during the camp season. These should also be left in-place.
Access
This entire area is on the private property of the Horton Center and access to the climbing area is only permitted outside of the summer camp season. Climbing here is NOT PERMITTED from June 10th through August 15th. The climbing area is very close to the Camp facilities so please follow the approach directions carefully so as to not trespass on the area of the Camp that is off limits (essentially all buildings and grounds past the Pine Mountain Loop Trail, see directions and beta photos below).
Getting There
From Route 16 north of Pinkham Notch and south of Gorham take Dolly Copp Road (not maintained in winter) 1.9 miles to the parking lot for Pine Link Trail (19T 032216E, 4913606N 1646 elev.). From Route 2 in Randolph take Pinkham B Road (not maintained in winter) 2.5 miles to the parking lot for Pine Link Trail (19T 032216E, 4913606N 1646 elev.).
Take Pine Mountain Road. 700 feet from the parking lot the road may be gated. If it is, park at the Pine Link Trail parking lot and walk the 1.3 miles (560+ elev.) to the Pine Mountain Loop Trail (19T 0323413E, 4915203N 2180 elev.) If the road is not gated you may drive this approach carefully. The road is narrow in spots and there may be a vehicle coming the other direction. Park in one of the small pull offs close to the Pine Mountain Loop Trail before you reach the Horton Center Camp.
(The pulloff just past this sign is the last parking spot the public may use to access this climbing area if the gate is open. Do not drive past the yellow sign)
Hike the Pine Loop Trail .3 miles (95+ elev.) to the base of the climbing area (19T 0323769E, 4915255N 2220 elev.)
The Climbs
From left to right the established routes are as follows:
The Flake (5.3)
The most left route at the crag, history says that this route was often solo climbed by the more adventurous counselors at the nearby summer camp. It is a striking feature and while only 5.3 in difficulty you won’t find protection until about 20 feet up unless you carry a Black Diamond #5 cam or larger. The crux is the first few moves though and you’ll soon be able to get your leg behind the flake if need be and start finding protection higher up as the crack narrows. A two bolt anchor with chains is about 60 feet from the ground.
Lost and Found (5.9+)
A bouldery direct start gets you up to the stellar 5.5ish finger crack if you don’t use the pine tree at about 5.9+. An alternate start just to the right that utilizes the tree is probably around 5.7 though difficult to protect on lead. Once pulling the last tricky move to gain the lower angle crack above you’re in for some of the best 5.4-5.5 finger crack jamming you’ve ever done in NH. At the end of the crack a new two bolt anchor with rap rings was installed on September 4th, 2023 by Bob Ahern and David Lottmann.
(After getting through the initial tricky start of Lost and Found you are rewarded with this stellar 5.5ish finger crack)
Storybook (5.5)
A very interesting chimney system with ample protection, fun stemming, and some cool views into a deep chasm into the cliff mid-route. At the top is a three bolt anchor with chains set up on two of the bolts.
The Nose (A1?)
This was actually done as an aid climb by Paul Cormier around 1968, (see photo in history section).
Whistlin’ in the Dark (5.9)
The steep left face of Easy Rider, great jamming and movement with good protection. History says that the counselors at the nearby camp could not claim they had climbed this route unless they did it under a full moon. The two bolt anchor at the top is not in a great spot and will hopefully be updated and moved over the edge in the near future.
Easy Rider (5.6)
An aesthetic line (where the rope is) up the left facing dihedral. You can stay in the original corner for a bit to up it to 5.7ish or look to get into the right side crack early to keep the grade at 5.6. Fun moves with amazing views of the Imp Face, Cartner Notch, and Pinkham Notch over your right shoulder. And is that Mount Madison behind you at the top? Why yes, it is. The route ends at a two bolt anchor with long chains.
Note: Above these climbs are some fixed ropes that the camp staff utilize to set up top-ropes for their climbing program. Please do not alter/remove the ropes or locking carabiners that may be there when you visit.
Descent
All of these climbs (except Whistlin’) have easy-to-use fixed anchors for descending. There are plans to upgrade these anchors to glue-in style anchors with ramheads or mussey hooks in the not-too-distant future. If you decide to top out it is a short scramble to the scenic “Chapel Rock” lookout where a cross and natural pulpit reside. During camp season this ledge was a fond memory as the camp conducts “Evening Vespers” here… and I would stare off at the distant mountains as the sun set and spark a lifetime passion for time spent in the mountains. A short walk back down a nice path brings you back to the bog boardwalk that leads you back to the base of the cliff. Please be mindful of the signage that will keep you from entering the camp proper.
Support Public Access to Chapel Rock
Public access to Chapel Rock is NOT guaranteed. When climbing here be the best stewards you can possibly be. Horton Center does have the right to restrict access at any time of year if they have an event, so if you are asked to leave by staff please comply with a smile. You can support the mission of Horton Center and thank them for allowing access with a donation here.
1 From phone interview with Tad Pfeffer on 9/16/2023
I’ve now had a couple months to test the new Salewa Ortles Guide 35 Backpack and I’m ready to publish my review!
TLDR Version: The Salewa Ortles Guide 35 Backpack is a rugged lightweight technical backpack that is an excellent pick for general mountaineering, waterfall ice climbing, and ski mountaineering.
How I Tested:
I’ve taken this pack on a half dozen trips so far. Two general winter mountaineering trips up Mount Washington, a few waterfall ice climbing trips, and on one ski mountaineering objective.
What I Really Liked:
Hard to pick my favorite feature as there are a few of them. Let’s start with the roll top closure and removable “brain”. Around the rim of the roll top Salewa added a stiffener that reminds me of those wrist snap bracelets from yonder years. This stiffener creates a great seal that makes rolling the top of the pack down easy and makes a great seal to keep snow out of the pack in inclement weather. A magnetic “over the roll” strap helps secure climbing ropes and slim the profile of the pack if I’ve decided to remove the “brain” for a more streamlined climbing pack.
Both of the two external zippers on the pack are the high end waterproof zippers I prefer, the Salewa does not claim the pack to be waterproof I found it to be one of the more “snowing hard out”-proof bags I’ve tested. The horizontal zipper near the top accesses a pocket that was big enough to carry my avalanche shovel and probe on a recent ski mountaineering mission. The diagonal side zipper gives the user another access point to reach their water bottle without having to go through the roll-top access point.
The backpack features reinforced side carry loops for A-framing your skis. The upper compression straps have a nice “separator” straps for securing any type of ice axe from mixed climbing tools to general mountaineering axes.
The “Dry-Back” back panel and molded shoulder straps felt awesome for both carrying heavier loads while ski mountaineering or while climbing vertical frozen waterfalls.
I found the 35 liters to be generous and was easily able to pack my for guide kit for a technical day of ski mountaineering (post coming soon to show that gear list).
Salewa is definitely a safety orientated company at the sternum strap whistle is the best quality I have seen for a sternum strap whistle. Beneath the removable lip is also information relating to the “Alpine Emergency Signal” which includes a diagram showing how to put an injured person into the “recovery position” and the numbers for contact emergency services in Europe and US & Canada, along with SOS morse code instructions.
Finally, I love the color. I’m a huge fan of bright colors in backpacks from both a Search & Rescue perspective and a general preference.
What Could Be Improved:
There is not too much here I would change but a few things did come to mind while testing the pack. Probably the biggest is the reinforced lower compression straps do not have releasable buckles. So if carrying a rope coiled in a single strand butterfly coil (quite common these days) you’ll need to “tuck” the rope into the ski carry loops if you want the rope fastened securely. A minor issue for sure but I do like packs where all four side compression straps can be opened.
While this pack was designed and marketed toward “ski mountaineering” vs. backcountry touring the avalanche tool pocket could use one small drain hole towards the bottom. It was also a bit tight for my super light carbon avalanche probe and shovel (what I carry on more technical tours vs. general backcountry skiing. My larger shovel and probe may not have fit in this pocket.
Summary/Who Is This For?
In summary this is a very well designed backpack made by a great company. I had way more great things to say about the pack then the couple of small nitpicks I mentioned. Who should consider purchasing this backpack? This backpack is best designed for an ice climber who occasionally goes touring or a winter above tree-line type hiker. I did not rig snowshoes to the outside of the pack but it shouldn’t be hard with a couple straps to easily fasten them to the outside. So if you are into ice climbing, winter hiking, and maybe do a little backcountry touring on the side, maybe this could be the backpack for you! You can find it in the US at these retailers:
Northeast Alpine Start 