Short Review: Paka “The Hoodie” and Sebastian Ski Socks

Paka Apparel Review

This winter I was introduced to a company that specializes in handmade sustainable Alpaca clothing, Paka Apparel. To experience the brand I received “The Hoodie” and a pair of their new Sebastian Ski Socks. While I usually review more technical clothing I was pretty excited to be exposed to a brand that has made some very positive impacts on a country I love, Peru. You can read the origin story here but I will just some it up that this company is incredibly environmentally conscious and ethical, paying their native workers more than live-able wages and providing university scholarships for many Peruvian women.

The Hoodie has quickly become my most worn non-technical piece of clothing this winter. It is the softest hoody I’ve ever owned and after ice climbing or backcountry skiing all day slipping into this hoodie is a joy. The material is so soft and thermoregulating I have found it is really comfortable for extended wear and I even find it great to sleep in. I prefer to sleep at a cooler room temperature then most (64 degrees) and the cozy warmth of this with the hood up definitely has led to some quality sleep. It’s a casual fit and a size large was perfect for my 5′ 9″ 185 LB 42 inch chest build.

The Sebastian Ski Socks fit great and the full length compression was welcomed on long tours. The size medium was perfect for my US size 9 feet.

If you are a fan of sustainable natural apparel from a company with solid ethics and practices take a look at Paka Apparel. They offer a full like of clothing from casual t-shirts to newly released insulated outer wear jackets underwear and more!

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through one of these links earns the author a small commission at no cost to you. Samples were provided to the author for purpose of review.

My Ice Climbing Kit

While the New England ice climbing season is off to a bit of a sluggish start a follower recently asked if I had a gear list for what I take ice climbing. Thanks for the inspiration for this post Kyle! I’m going to list items in the order that I usually pack my pack.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack Review

I’ve tested over a dozen packs specifically designed for waterfall ice climbing and this pack has held onto my #1 spot for best ice climbing pack. You can find my full review of this pack here.

Patagonia DAS Parka

If there is any chance of mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the reliability of a synthetic insulated belay parka, and the Patagonia DAS Parka is an industry leading choice.

Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket

If there is zero chance of encountering mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the warmth and packability of a down insulated belay parka, and for that the Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket is an excellent choice.

Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hooded Jacket Review

If it is wicked cold out I’ve been known to pack a second light puffy so I can “double up” on my belay jackets. Conversely, if it’s really mild out I might just up for carrying a lighter puffy then the two jackets I mention above. For that the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket is a great choice. You can find my recent detailed review of this one here.

32oz Wide Mouth Nalgene Water Bottle

I typically only carry one 32 ounce wide mouth water bottle for most ice climbing day trips. I do not use any type of insulated parka to keep it from freezing. I just pack in above my belay jackets and close to the small of my back. In the coldest of temps I have never had it freeze when packed up against my back. If I want something with more flavor then water I reach for some of my Skratch Labs stash. If it’s a really cold mission, or a really long day, I also pack an insulated water bottle with some Borvo Broth. This stuff really tastes amazing and is an excellent mid-day energy refresher!

AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit

I use the AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit as my base first aid kit then I add a few things to it that just live inside the kit. Like the Petzl e+lite headlamp, a small knife, and a small Bic lighter. I also slide a SAM splint down into the back sleeve of my backpack along with a CAT tourniquet.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Ice Screw Case

Hyperlight Mountain Gear Prism Ice Pack Review

This case is perfect for packing and protecting my ice screws. I’ve used Petzl and Black Diamond screws for over two decades of ice climbing with few complaints. This season I have swapped out almost my entire rack for a set of the new Blue Ice Aero Ice Screws. I’ll have a review out on these as soon as Mother Nature brings the ice back into condition. For sizes my typical set up is one 22cm, eight 13cm, and one 10cm. If heading to the bigger ice at Willoughby I will add four 17 to 19cm screws. I carry a Grivel Candela V-Thread Tool which conveniently nestles inside my 22cm ice screw. In the zippered pocket in the ice screw case I have some zip ties and the allen wrench for my CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools.

Author on Black Pudding Gully, WI4 – photo by Brent Doscher

For clipping ice screws on lead I highly prefer the Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraws. Notchless wire gate carabiners are the best, and the larger rope side carabiner on these draws is glove friendly. It’s also a better carabiner if you ever climb on a two rope system. I carry 8 of these racked on a Petzl William Screw Locking Carabiner. On this carabiner I also have a “locker draw” that I build from a Petzl Express Quickdraw Sling and two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners. There is also one “alpine draw” built with a 60cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling and two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners clipped to this large locking carabiner, a 180cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling with two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners, and a pre-tied “mini-quad“.

The rest of my climbing hardware is all clipper to a large locking carabiner and includes two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners, my DMM Pivot Belay Device, a 16 foot length of Sterling Power Cord, a traditional 6mm cord tied into a small prussic, a 40cm Edelrid Aramid Cord, and a small carabiner knife.

Inside my Hyperlite Prism Crampon Bag are my Petzl Dart Crampons and I often stuff a pair of Kahtoola MICROspikes in there as well.

Next I stuff my warmer Black Diamond Guide Gloves in. It has to be heinous out there for me to end up switching into these beasts but I won’t risk not being able to keep my hands warm in the winter so these get packed even though I rarely wear them. I do most of my ice leading wearing CAMP USA Geko Ice Pro Gloves and Rab Power Stretch Pro Glove Liners.

Inside my Petzl Sirocco Helmet (review) or Salewa Piuma 3.0 Helmet (I love both these helmets) I pack my preferred ice climbing harness which is the Petzl Sitta (my review) outfitted with three Petzl Caritools.

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon

In the top pocket of my pack I stick my Petzl IKO Core Headlamp along with some hand warmers, my snacks and food for the day. And since I know you are wondering what my favorite on mountain food choice is I’ll share that hands down the best food to take ice climbing is left over pizza from Flatbread NoCo!

For a rope I prefer the Sterling Rope Fushion Nano IX 9mm by 60m rope. It’s a triple rated rope (single, twin, half) so it is ideal for guiding two clients on multi-pitch ice. I have two of them in the bi-pattern.

While I already mentioned it above my ice tools of choice are the CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools. You can find my original in depth review of these tools here.

Finally on the outside of my shoulder strap I clip my Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio. If you’ve been following me for awhile you know I’m a huge fan of these radios. They make climbing & skiing so much better than it was before. Did you know you can get ten percent off of them with code “AlpineStart10”?

Links above are affiliate links. That means if you make a purchase from an online retailer after visiting those links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. These commissions keep this blog afloat. Thank you.

Well that pretty much sums up what I pack for a day of ice climbing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I can go into my clothing system in another post if there is interest. Did I miss anything? What do you bring that I don’t? Got any questions about anything in my kit? Please comment below if you do have a question or if you found this post helpful in anyway. Temperatures are finally getting colder so I’m hoping to get out later this week and actually use this gear for what it is intended for!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Gear Review: Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody

I’ve been testing the new Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody since early October and after a half dozen trips into the alpine with it I’m ready to share my thoughts.

TLDR Version: This is an outstanding addition to the “light puffy” market and I’m stoked to have this in my current rotation of outdoor clothes.

How I Tested: Two ice climbing trips to Mount Willard, an ice climbing trip into Tuckerman Ravine, two Mount Washington attempts (one successful summit, one bail at Lion Head due to very poor visibility and extreme winds higher)

Before I get into my personal opinions on this jacket let’s look at the manufacturer description and specifications:

Manufacturer Description:

The perfect layer for backcountry rock walls, big alpine faces, and frigid weekend ski tours, the Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody is the ultimate in dynamic four-season insulation that breathes efficiently and stretches with your every movement. The jacket packed with migration-resistant Primaloft Gold Active, maintaining breathability during even the most intense high-output pursuits. The 20D nylon ripstop face fabric and stretch liner resists weather and encourages full range of motion, while remaining incredibly durable through rugged talus, brushy approaches and daily use. Additional features include an adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood, a low-profile, single-adjust hem and a highly packable design that stuffs into the internal stretch mesh pocket and clips onto your harness, all your needs are covered. Fit and overall design has been entirely overhauled for 2023.

PRODUCT FEATURES

  • Migration-resistant PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation
  • 20D nylon ripstop face fabric with PFC-free DWR Technology
  • Lightweight, stretch lining for added breathability
  • Mapped insulation throughout body, shoulders, and arms
  • Adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood with drawcord adjustment
  • Underarm gussets for added range of motion
  • Low-profile, single-adjust hem
  • Stows in internal left hand pocket with carabiner clip loop
  • Two concealed-zip hand pockets
  • Primary fabric is Bluesign approved
  • ECO Label Status
  • Fit: Regular
  • Claimed Weight: 14.29 ounces
Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon

Personal Opinions:

The “light puffy” has become a staple in my winter outdoor clothing scheme. My biggest requirements in a quality piece are; high warmth to weight ratio, high breathability, high packability, decent water resistance, wind proof, well fitting. The Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody checks all the boxes!

High Warmth to Weight Ratio: Black Diamond uses mapped PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation. Primaloft® Gold is one of the best synthetic insulators available with a CLO value of 0.92, which is roughly equivalent to the warmth of 500 or 550 fill-power down and achieves 98% thermal efficiency (and still retains heat if it gets wet, unlike down). The nylon shell fabric is lightweight and soft to the touch, allowing for the whole jacket to weight less than a pound. For a synthetic insulated hooded jacket this is quite impressive, so I give this a 5/5 in the warmth to weight ration category!

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review

High Breathability: The biggest test of the breathability of this jacket came yesterday as I was breaking trail in thigh deep new snow from tree line to the summit cone on Mount Washington. Temps were 6 degrees Fahrenheit (-14 Celcius), winds were around 40 mph (64 Kph), and the wind chill was about -23 Fahrenheit (-30 Celcius). The uphill battle was slow going and a bit exhausting. I needed more than my base layers and soft shell jacket to stay comfortable but I was working pretty hard. I pulled this on over my soft shell and kept working uphill thinking I’d likely start to overheat soon and need to take it off. That didn’t happen and I reached the summit with it still on. So it is definitely breathable. I didn’t take it off until I was back to tree line and out of the wind for the quick walk back to the trailhead.

High Packability: While similar down jackets can pack smaller I prefer the extra insurance of synthetic for my light puffy jackets and only have one big down parka these days that is always in my pack for the most arctic of trips. Despite being a synthetic hooded jacket I am impressed with the Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody ability to get small. Without much coaching it will pack into it’s own zipper right side hand pocket at takes up just a little more space then your standard wide mouth Nalgene water bottle.

Decent Water Resistance: Black Diamond uses pretty standard PFC-free DWR Technology to give this jacket some water resistance. I was only exposed to a little dripping water on a warmish ascent of Hitchcock Gully earlier this year and as expected any drops that hit me just rolled off the fabric. Since it is a synthetic and not down I’m less concerned about how water resistant a light synthetic puffy is as I will still pack a hardshell if there is a significant chance of liquid precipitation on my trip.

Wind Proof: 100% this jacket is indeed windproof as I tested it in those 40+mph conditions I mentioned above. All I can really add here is I am impressed with how windproof the jacket seems while being so breathable at the same time. Must be the 20 denier fabric that Black Diamond used for the shell fabric, it just strikes the right balance in this regard.

Well Fitting: Ok I kind of saved the best for last here. I love the way this jacket fits and movies. Black Diamond says it’s a “regular” fit and while that means it isn’t supposed to fit like your tapered skinny jeans I don’t find the fit to be too bulky at all either. For my 5’9″ 185 pound frame the large fits over my skin layers and soft shell jacket perfectly. The length is perfect for tucking in under my climbing harness, and the stretchy panels under the arms keep in tucked in while I’m ice climbing and raising my hands far above my head often. The insulated hood is comfortable and well fitting with or without a climbing helmet on thanks to the drawcord adjustment. The fit is somehow technical while casual as I’ve found myself grabbing this jacket for everyday where and not just saving it for mountain missions.

Summary: The synthetic light weight hooded jacket is one of my favorite categories of gear to test. You can find many of my reviews of this style of jacket over the years on my review page. If your “light puffy” is ready for replacement or upgrade, or you have yet to add the “light puffy” to your outdoor wardrobe, I highly suggest you check the Black Diamond First Light Hooded Jacket out!

Buy Directly from Black Diamond

Buy from Moosejaw.com

Buy from Backcountry.com

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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My Glove Game

outdoor gloves review

Every fall I do an inventory of my hand wear to be sure I’m ready for the upcoming backcountry touring, winter mountaineering, and waterfall ice climbing season. This year I figured I’d share my current collection and explain a bit about why I need 24 pairs of gloves/mittens. That’s right… 24 pairs!

Bike Gloves– I have two pairs, a fingerless pair for warm weather and a pair of full bike gloves for cooler riding.

Glove Liners– I wear glove liners on almost outdoor adventure. I make sure I have two pairs of serviceable glove liners year round. With all the sharp points related to ice climbing and mountaineering (and sharp ski edges) I expect to trash at least one pair of liners each year, so it’s good they are affordable! I was in need of a replacement pair this season so last week I picked up a pair of the Rab Merino 160 Glove Liners. This pair joins my Black Diamond Lightweight GridTech Liner Gloves and a pair of Ortovox 185 Rock’N’Wool Glove Liners to complete my glove liner inventory.

Technical Waterfall Ice Climbing Gloves– I prefer very dextrous perfectly fitting grippy gloves when leading waterfall ice. Handling ropes, placing ice screws, adjusting crampons… these tasks are more easily accomplished in specialized thin gloves. Currently I am rotating between the Outdoor Research Alibi 2 Gloves, the Black Diamond Torque Gloves, the RAB Infinium Axis Gloves, and the Ortovox Tour Light Gloves. To the surprise of many of my clients I actually wear one of the liners listed above under these snug fitting gloves. It improves the comfort especially with models like the Black Diamond Torque Gloves which can feel a little clammy without a liner.

Uphill Touring Gloves– For high output cold weather uphill skinning or hiking I prefer super breathable soft shell type gloves. My current favorite pair are the Camp USA G Comp Warm Gloves. What makes these so great is they have a built in insulated overmitt that is stored in a small pocket above the wrist. So they are super breathable and comfy on the up track and if you transition a little faster then the rest of your group you can hang out with the overmitts on to keep the tips of your fingers from going numb. I’m excited Ortovox has followed this design and I picked up a pair of Ortovox Tour Pro Cover Gloves for this season which join the couple pairs of Ortovox Tour Gloves I already have.

Downhill Touring Gloves– When it’s really cold and snowy out and you’re done burning calories on the ascent it’s time for the warm gloves to come out of the pack. I switch into these gloves for most descents, teaching avalanche courses about snowpack observations, practicing avalanche rescue skills, and occasionally snow blowing the driveway. I have two pairs of the surprisingly affordable Flylow Tough Guy Gloves. My fanciest pair of gloves are my Ortovox Merino Freeride Gloves. I also love the style and quality of the Wyoming based 4-Season Give’R Gloves. New to my inventory for this season is also a pair of the Ortovox Full Leather Gloves which fit and feel amazing!

Real Cold Ice Climbing & Mountaineering Gloves– For technical ice climbing and mountaineering on the coldest days I have two pairs of the Black Diamond Guide Gloves. As an emergency item and something I pack in my Search & Rescue pack I have some old thick fleece mittens and and old Goretex over mitts. I will likely update these with something like the Black Diamond Mercury Mitts soon. A stylish pair of toasty Give’R Leather Mittens rounds out my hand wear assortment.

Well that’s it for my current glove assortment. Do you have any of these? Any favorites of yours I should check out? Let me know in the comments!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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Quick Look: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody

Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody Review

“Isolated showers are expected to spread in around midday while temperatures for most elevations will remain above freezing, breezy” – from yesterday’s Mount Washington Observatory Higher Summits. Perfect for a follow up look of the updated Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody I recently received. I gave this piece a very detailed positive review back in 2016 and I’m happy to say that the original jacket is still in great condition despite 7 years of regular use!

Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody Review
Light rain and wind from neighboring Mount Washington arrives early afternoon and the Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody comes out…

Black Diamond upgraded the original material to a newer Schoeller Eco-Repel Bio® PFC-free DWR Technology which seemed to shed light rain longer then my original hoody. There’s more stretch in this material which not only allows more freedom of movement but when combined with the new drop hem around the bottom the jacket stays tucked under my harness while making long reaches.

Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody Review
DWR doing what DWR does…

This is one of the best ultralight active shell jackets there is! Weighing around 7 ounces there’s rarely a mission I don’t find it wise to toss this in the pack. While it is a highly water resistent windbreaker I find it even more flexible with my layering system. For example, in summer this has doubled as a sun hoody on hot day as mentioned in my 2016 review. It’s more than enough breathable for higher output activities like mountain biking. For multi-pitch traditional rock climbing this clips to the back of my harness for those mid-climb unexpected changes in weather. As it gets colder it fits well over my Merino wool hoodies. In very cold weather while backcountry touring it is a perfect wind shell piece that fits well under any of my light puffy jackets. For such a quality versatile piece I can’t think of who wouldn’t find a spot for this in their active outdoor clothing system!

Buy from Backcountry (men’s and women’s available)

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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Gear Review: KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL™ Men’s Hoody

KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL™ Men's Hoody Review

I think most people who follow me know I have a thing for “sun-hoodies”. They are literally my favorite type of active outdoor clothing and I’ve had the opportunity to review quite a few different brands. When I saw the KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL™ Men’s Hoody I immediately placed an order. For those who are not aware of what a “sun-hoody” is it’s basically the best thing to happen to outdoor clothing since the use of synthetics! It is by far the BEST protection from both sun/UV and the incoming mosquito/black fly season! Every outdoors-person should own at least one (I won’t disclose how many I currently have in my gear closet).

Let’s start with…

Manufacturer Description:

Incredibly soft with superior moisture management and breathability, KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL Men’s Hoody displays excellent abrasion and snag resistance for increased durability. Maximum sun protection (UPF 50+) paired with odor resistant properties keep you fresh and confident throughout the day.

KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL™ Men's Hoody Review
I also have one in this “Sea Breeze” color! Photo from Kuhl.com

ADVANCED FABRICS

  • Fabric: 85% Ultra-soft premium Polyester 15% Spandex | 147 GSM

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

  • Machine wash cold
  • Do not bleach
  • Tumble dry low

DIFFERENT BY DESIGN

  • Saddle-stitched seams for less bulk
  • Elastic binding at hood opening and sleeves
  • Five-panel hood constructed to lay flat without bulk when not in use
  • Featuring the original thumb loop

DIFFERENT BY CONSTRUCTION

  • High moisture-wicking
  • Open-air construction for advanced breathability
  • Odor-resistant infused fabric keeps you fresh longer so you can wash less and wear more
  • Abrasion-resistant/snag-resistant
  • UPF 50+ sun protection

Performance

KÜHL’s AIRKÜHL™ Men's Hoody Review

Sun-hoodie season is from the end of April to the late September so I spend a lot of days wearing one of these! I can tell from the weight of the fabric KÜHL has found a great balance in lightweight comfort and durability. I’ve worn mine for about 20 days so far this season without washing so I can attest to the “odor-resistant” technology. My wife would let me know right? The weave is somehow a bit tighter than other models which reduces snagging but is still super soft and breathable. Using the size chart I went for a size large and it fits great, just slightly snug in the forearms.

Summary

If you have already joined the sun-hoodie movement then you already know how great these are! KÜHL has joined a few other top-of-the-line companies in producing a seriously excellent sun-hoodie and this one is available and in-stock in 4 different colors (I’m really partial to the two lighter colors, Sea Breeze and Cloud Gray). A slightly different model is offered in womens, the KÜHL ENGINEERED HOODY. A great addition to any outdoor wardrobe made by an ethical company! A couple more KUHL reviews will be coming soon!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: The author purchased this item with his own money. Affiliate links help support this blog! Thank you.

Gear Review: KÜHL® THE LAW™ Pants Review

I rarely shop for non-technical casual pants but when a marketing email from KÜHL® came across my desk for the KÜHL® THE LAW™ Pants I decided to pull the trigger on purchasing a new pair of casual work pants. After a couple of months of wear not only am I really happy with the purchase I’m also motivated to write a short review for these comfy rugged canvas pants!

KÜHL® THE LAW™ Pants Review

Fit/Comfort

The fit of these pants is excellent in part because KÜHL® offers them in multiple inseam lengths and waist combinations and actually has most options in stock!

KÜHL’s THE LAW™ Men’s Pant Review
Available colors, waist sizes, and inseam lengths

The KÜHL® THE LAW™ Pants are a “Full” style which is wide through the knee and leg opening. I went for a 34 Waist, 30 Inseam for my build and they hit the spot like no pair of cargo pants or jeans I’ve ever worn!

KÜHL’s THE LAW™ Men’s Pant Review
The KÜHL’s THE LAW™ Men’s Pant are “Full” fit

The KÜHL® THE LAW™ Pants are based on the “Full” style which definitely makes them feel like a casual work pant vs. a more technical hiking/climbing pant that I usually review. The material is 98% cotton, 2% Spandex, and while a rugged “canvas” type pant they feel soft and breathable for daily casual wear.

Function

These have become my favorite pair of every day wear pants. Manufacturer listed features are:

  • Two side pockets; one zip for security
  • Gusseted crotch for freedom of movement
  • French fly interior button closure
  • Articulated knees
  • Double ply front
  • Scuff guards

My favorite feature of these pants, other than how well they fit, is the side zippered pocket which fits my Flowfold Minimalist Wallet and passport easily… these were the only pair of non-technical pants I wore to travel internationally last month and the size and added security of that side zippered pocket was perfect. Both that zippered pocket along with a non-zipper side pocket on the right side is suitable for EDC items.

KÜHL® THE LAW™ Pants Review

Summary

I’m not accustomed to reviewing pants not designed for ice climbing or backcountry skiing but I like these pants so much I felt they deserve some attention! If you are in need of a rugged but comfy pair of casual work pants you can’t go wrong with the KÜHL® THE LAW™ Pants! I also have some other great KÜHL® items, including an amazing sun hoody, I’ll be reviewing shortly!

See you in the mountains!

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: I purchased these pants with my own money. Affiliate links above support the content created here. Thank you.

Gear Review- Arc’teryx IS Jacket

This winter I have been testing the Arc’teryx IS Jacket and I’ll sum up my experience with two words. Bombproof Furnace! In the category of synthetic belay jackets this one is a beast. Let’s look at the manufacturer description and specs then I’ll jump into some of the finer details and my opinion on the model!

Manufacturer Description

Created for alpine, ice and expedition climbing, the Alpha IS is the single-layer solution for severe alpine environments. The GORE-TEX outer delivers durable waterproof, windproof, breathable protection. Thermatek™, a DWR treated continuous filament synthetic, insulates without absorbing moisture. The combination results in a jacket providing comprehensive weather and thermal protection at a weight 18% lighter than the equivalent midlayer and hardshell system.

Specifications

Weight 610 g / 1 lb 5.5 oz

Fit Regular Fit, Hip Length

Centre back length: 78 cm / 30.75 in

Men’s Top Sizing Chart

Activity Ice Climbing / Alpine Climbing / Expedition

How I Tested

I used this jacket for about a dozen day trips this winter including summiting Mount Washington with wind chills around -30f to -40f, alpine ice climbing on Mount Willard with ambient air temps around 10f, top-rope guiding at Cathedral Ledge, and while standing in snow pits teaching avalanche courses in Tuckerman Ravine during mixed precipitation weather.

Performance

As I mentioned in the introduction the Arc’teryx IS Jacket is a FURNACE! This is thanks to the exclusive “Thermatek” syntheric insulation which has amazing heat retention properties while being so light and packable. From Acr’teryx:

Exclusive to Arc’teryx, ThermaTek™ is a continuous filament, synthetic insulation that is treated with DWR (Durable Water Repellent) to make it highly hydrophobic, which means that it repels moisture very efficiently. The lofty insulation is then laminated to a backing fabric to ensure an even distribution and insulation.

Key Advantages

  • Arc’teryx’s most efficient insulation when used in humid and wet conditions
  • Very resilient and durable
  • The fastest drying fill insulation in our collection

While I am not a fan of this color (it is also available in a much more visible “Magma” color), I found the black color to be even warmer if the belay stance was in the sun.

I also said this jacket is BOMBPROOF, both against all forms of precipitation and winds but also against abrasion. The weather protection comes from the N40p-X 2L GORE-TEX membrane. water-tight zippers, and DWR treatment. The abrasion resistance is thanks rugged shell fabric and fully taped seams.

Weight/Packability

Manufacturer listed weight is 610 grams, 1 pound and 5.5 ounces. My home scale weighed my size large sample with the storage sack at 680 grams, 1 pound and eight ounces. The jacket easily stuffed into the included stuff sack with measures about 10 x 6 x 6 inches and could be compressed further.

Sizing/Fit

Despite my measurements being a little closer to a medium I went with the large size so it would easily fit over my other layers including a light weight puffy. The sleeve length was perfect and I choose to wear this over my harness at belays. To be honest I don’t know how Will Gadd was leading steep ice while wearing this jacket… it’s too warm! The hood is generously sized enough to easily fit over my helmet.

Features

There are a lot of small design features I liked in this jacket. The elasticized cuffs easily kept snow out and warmth in. The large internal drop pocket kept my water warm and handy while hanging around ice cragging. The stiffened visor kept freezing rain off my face while explaining the Alpha angle to students in an avalanche class in Tuckerman Ravine. The “almost” waterproof chest pocket kept my iPhone protected during moderate rain over the Christmas vacation week. The hood easily fits comfortably over my climbing helmet.

Improvements

There isn’t much I would change with this piece. A softer piece of material in the “chin” area might be nice but most the time I was wearing this jacket with a buff on anyways. The shell and internal fabric is a bit on the “noisy” side, but that’s such a minor observation I don’t think anyone would notice unless you were trying to stalk a deer or something. And as mentioned, I’d like this more in the Magma color as I prefer high visibility colors for winter mountaineering and ice climbing!

Summary

The Arc’teryx IS Jacket is basically the brand’s highest end synthetic belay parka and hard shell jacket in one piece. With a high level of heat retention and protection from wind and rain this really is designed for harsh conditions. I would be hard pressed to find a synthetic puffy and hardshell combo and stay this far under two pounds! Granted the jacket commands I high retail price, but when you consider the price of a separate belay parka and hardshell of this quality I can start to see why it comes in where it does. If you climb in warmer, less harsh, conditions than our local Mount Washington, you might prefer to keep the “puffy” and hard shell as two separate pieces for more versatility, but if you are looking to simplify your clothing system for extreme cold or wet conditions this would be a piece worth looking at!

Arc'teryx IS Jacket Review
Arc’teryx IS Jacket Review

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

A media sample was provided for review. Affiliate links above help support this blog at no cost to you.

Gear Review: Sierra Designs Cold Canyon Hoodie

Sierra Designs Cold Canyon Hoodie Review

The Sierra Designs Cold Canyon Hoodie is a versatile mid-layer that can function as a stand-alone outer layer during high output activities during dry conditions. I’ve been testing on all Fall and I’m ready to share my opinions on the piece. First, the description from the Sierra Designs and the manufacturer specs:

The Cold Canyon Hoodie gives you stretch grid fleece that moves with you and vents heat with ease. Thumb loops allow for easy layering as a mid-layer, while a nylon wind breaker front sustains heat when moving quickly, allowing flow everywhere else.

Features

  • Heavy weight stretch grid fleece provides breathability and warmth
  • Thumb loops for easy layering
  • Nylon windbreak on chest cuts wind while moving and still vents throughout
  • Fitted hood
  • 2 zippered hand warmer pockets

Materials

  • Shell: Stretch Grid Fleece
  • Lining: Nylon

Tech Specs – Size M

  • Center Back Length: 28.5 in / 72.4 cm
  • Sleeve Length: 36.87 in / 93.66 cm
  • Weight: 18.75 oz / 531.55 g

Performance

I tested this jacket in the White Mountains from September to December while hiking a few of the 4,000 footers and rock climbing at Rumney, Cathedral, and in Huntington Ravine. All told I put about a dozen days into getting a feel for this jacket. The grid-fleece is a pretty great fabric. It is soft and brushed on the inside with a denser weave on the outside. The result is it traps a decent amount of heat for such a thin fabric and the outer weave seems to block a little bit of wind without sacrificing any breathability. When the winds do pick up the nylon chest panels provide even more protection. For a fleece mid-layer it seems pretty technical, with thumb loops ,a well sized hood, and a large sized zippered chest pocket.

Fit

I found this jacket to run pretty big. I went for a size large for my 5′ 9″, 180lb build and I think a medium would have been a better fit for me, especially in the sleeves which feel a bit too long, so consider sizing down if you want it to be a less casual fit. If you have particularly long arms you might stick with your regular size.

Summary

The Sierra Designs Cold Canyon Hoodie is definitely a nice addition to an active outdoor wardrobe. Other than running a bit big and weighing a bit more than a less technical fleece there isn’t much to complain about here. The MRSP is right around what I would have guessed in terms of value, and if you can catch it on sale this would be a great choice for a versatile mid-layer. In fact Sierra Designs is running a one-day “flash” sale for the non-hooded version of this jacket, so if you don’t need a hood and are just looking for a solid fleece mid-layer check out the Sierra Designs Cold Canyon Fleece Jacket, which is 40% off today only!

Purchase

Women’s Sierra Designs Cold Canyon Fleece <- 40% off today only

Men’s Sierra Designs Cold Canyon Fleece <- 40% off today only

Woman’s Sierra Designs Cold Canyon Hoodie

Men’s Sierra Designs Cold Canyon Hoodie

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created at this blog and when you make a purchase through them the author receives a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you.

Gear Review- Patagonia DAS Light Hoody

This year Patagonia has released a lighter version of their iconic DAS “Dead Air Space” synthetic parka and after a month of testing the Patagonia DAS Light Hoody I can honestly say it’s a amazing piece! Without a doubt you won’t find a warmer and more bomb-proof synthetic belay jacket under 12 ounces.

Patagonia DAS Light Hoody Review

For insulation Patagonia used 65 grams of down-like “PlumaFill”. This 100% recycled insulation truly feels as warm as high quality down yet has the advantage of still retaining heat should it get wet. You’ll have to go out of your way to get it wet though thanks to the almost seamless Pertex® Quantum Pro fabric with both a PU dry coating and a DWR (durable water repellent) finish. That’s about as close to waterproof as you can get while still having functional breath-ability and makes this jacket stand above the Micro and Nano Puff jackets with their sewn through quilted patterns.

A two way zipper for easy access to your belay loop, size-able chest pocket, helmet friendly hood, and two handwarmer pockets round out the features. The cut of the jacket is roomy, closer to a true belay jacket than a typical “light puffy”. I went with a size large for my 5′ 9″ 180lb frame and there was plenty of room to layer under it but it didn’t feel to baggy. My only suggestion is the left hand pocket that can be turned inside out to stuff the jacket needs to be a little bigger, it’s a bit of a challenge trying to get the jacket to stuff into that pocket.

Here’s a quick video review I did on the jacket:

Summary/Who is this for?

The Patagonia DAS Light Hoody is a pretty versatile piece. It’s an excellent choice for a fast & light ice climber/alpinist belay jacket if conditions are typical. It’s a great insurance piece for the back-country skier or rider who doesn’t plan to stop moving but wants to be prepared for any contingency and winter hikers will find it an excellent addition to their gear closet. If you’re looking for some cold weather protection this is a jacket you should be looking at!

Purchase from Backcountry <- 20% off coupon applies! Link below!

Purchase from Patagonia

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created on this blog at no additional cost to you. Thank you!