Black Diamond Beta Light 45L Backpack Review: The Ultimate Ultralight Solution

Black Diamond Beta Light 45 Backpack Review

The last few months I’ve been testing out Black Diamond’s newest addition to the ultralight backpack market, the Black Diamond Beta Light 45. I’ve primarily been using it to haul 20 to 30 pounds of climbing gear while running over a dozen climbing trips in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I’ve also carried it with an overnight load on a few search and rescue missions. With over 100 miles of trail use I’m ready to share my thoughts on this pack! First the manufacturer descriptions and technical specifications:

Manufacturer Description

The Beta Light 45L is our answer to the ultralight backpacking revolution. Inspired by our athletes and utilizing a running-vest style suspension harness system from our distance running series packs, the Beta Light 45L is simply built for moving fast on overnight adventures in the backcountry. Whether you’re spending months on the PCT or making the most of a two-week trip, the Beta Light 45L carries all the essentials in a weatherproof, sleek design that doesn’t sacrifice comfort.

Built for moving fast and covering long distances, the Beta Light UL 45 is the ultimate blend of durability, lightweight construction and load carrying comfort. We partnered with Challenge Sailcloth to bring their Ultra 200 body fabric to our Beta Light series to create one of the lightest yet most durable packs on the trail. This durable fabric, combined with taped seams and a roll-top closure, make the pack weatherproof and able to stand up to day-in-day-out use. A simple, Power Mesh stretch pocket and two side pockets provide plenty of external storage options, while the pack’s running-vest inspired shoulder strap harness system provides support and comfort with additional snack pockets and water bottle storage options. A removable hip belt, lightweight aluminum frame, and removable foam back panel provide options for reducing weight even more.

Product Features

  • Challenge Sailcloth Ultra 200 body fabric is lightweight, tear resistant and extremely durable
  • Running vest-inspired shoulder straps with extra storage pockets makes for comfortable and dynamic carrying system
  • Roll-top closure, taped seams and waterproof fabric create weatherproof pack body
  • Removable frame pad gives structure with minimal weight penalty
  • External Power Mesh stretch outer pocket and two oversized ripstop side pockets
  • Removable hip belt system can reduce weight or allow for user modification
  • Four adjustable and removable Dynex core compression straps secure the pack and allow for alternative adjustment and lashing systems
  • Internal sleeve is hydration bladder compatible
  • Modular Design allows quick and secure attachment of the Beta Light Satellite 4L Bag for additional storage
Black Diamond Beta Light 45 Backpack Review

Opinions

Not considering myself a “trail runner” the first thing I noticed when unboxing this pack was the “running-vest” style shoulder strap system. This was the first time I would be using this style suspension system on a pack of this size. I’ll be honest, I was skeptical. For a pack that claims to be able to carry up to 40 pounds how could this style of shoulder strap work out for me? Being open minded helps, and I came to realize you can substitute area for padding of traditional shoulder strap systems and still have quite a comfortable carry. If you’ve never used a running vest style shoulder strap system it may seem weird for a minute. After the first dozen of miles of carrying 30+ loads I saw how these wide contoured thin shoulder straps efficiently distributed the weight in a comfortable manner.

The next aspect of this pack that got my attention is the extremely rugged and light “Ultra 200 Sail Cloth”. It feels like flexible invincible steel. With taped seams and 400 weight on the bottom of the pack I have a lot of confidence in the miles and abuse this pack will handle before any wear is shown. Like many packs of this category they are just made of something different then the old school Nylon Cordura products that had a sub-decade type lifetime. This pack is built to last for more than a decade of adventures, and I’ve been saying it for over a decade consider that when price comparing packs made from less impressive fabrics.

The third standout feature in my opinion is the huge stretchy external back pocket. I used this most often for my chalk bag and my rain jacket, but there’s so much more room here if needed! On a recent SAR mission it easily accepted my full length rolled sleeping pad. The oversized side pockets with angled top designs easily secure traditional 32 ounce wide mount Nalgenes.

As I work my way down the features of this pack I have to appreciate the large roll top opening that lets me dump whole racks of traditional climbing gear, a 60 meter climbing rope, and everything else I need for a day of multi-pitch rock climbing. The roll top closure combined with this fabric makes the pack feel quite water and weather resistant. With limited experience with running style shoulder straps I really liked the stretchy pockets on both shoulder straps using the left side open one to keep my iPhone 13Pro Max secure and accessible and the zippered pocket on the right to stash an assortment of on-the-go snacks.

Summary

While I have a lot of experience testing ultralight backpacks this was the first larger model I’ve tested with a running style shoulder strap system and I can see the merits of this design. Loads up to 30 pounds were quite comfortable to carry and I liked the stream line design of the pack without really any extraneous additions. The pack is made of incredibly robust yet super light fabric and I have no doubt it will hold up well to thousands of miles of adventure. This pack is well designed for Thru-hikers, ultralight backpackers, rock climbers, and mountaineers. If you are interested in shaving some ounces off your 45 liter size backpack while maintaining a comfortable carry and durable design the Black Diamond Beta Light 45 should be on your radar!

Buy Direct From Black Diamond

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See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

A media sample of this backpack was provided at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

Mammut Trion 38 Backpack: Features, Performance & Opinions

The Mammut Trion 38 backpack is versatile 4 season backpack suitable for summer backpacking trip, winter mountaineering trips, ice climbing and backcountry skiing. If you are looking for a backpack that can perform well in any of these adventures the Mammut Trion 38 deserves a look especially at a sub $200 MRSP!

Let’s start with the manufacturer description and then get into some details and opinions!

Manufacturer Description

The ideal partner for climbing, ski tours, and mountaineering, this versatile pack serves up lightweight comfort and exceptional durability for year-round alpine pursuits. Water-repellent and abrasion-resistant, our full Trion line was developed with pro alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Nico Hojac to optimize every last detail. Made of primarily recycled materials, the Trion 38 offers a host of practical features, including ice axe attachments, quick side access to the main compartment, and a designated avalanche equipment compartment. Complete with contact back system for optimal load transfer, you can stay fully focused on the next move ahead.

Suggested Activities

According to Mammut this pack was designed with these activities in mind. While I like this graphic visual I think it misses “ice climbing” and “cragging” as great uses for this pack, and I’m not even sure what one looks for in a Via Ferrata pack?

Features

  • Rolltop closure with zipper
  • Two ice axe attachments
  • Zippered side access to main compartment
  • Compartment for avalanche equipment
  • Elasticated chest strap for optimum comfort and a perfect fit
  • Large mesh pockets on the shoulder strap
  • Reinforced side ski attachment
  • Trekking pole carrier
  • Hydration system-compatible
  • Rope attachment on flap
  • Compression straps can be tensioned at side and front
  • Comfortable thanks to the anatomically shaped, soft padded hip belt and shoulder straps
  • Robust, abrasion-proof outer material
  • Flap with external and internal pockets with key pocket
Mammut Trion 38 Backpack Review

How I Tested

I tested this pack from mid-March 2024 to June 2024 while leading winter hiking trips above tree line in the White Mountains, teaching avalanche courses, and sneaking in some late season waterfall ice climbing in Dixville Notch. I’ve also taken it one some Spring hiking and climbing trips with loads up to 30 pounds.

Performance & Opinions

On the first day of use I appreciated the roll top with stiffener zippered closure for the main top access. This type of access allows you to really open the top of the pack up to make loading it with a gear quick and easy. With 38 liters (2,400 cubic inches) of space the pack easily swallowed my extra clothes, a 60 meter climbing rope, a full traditional climbing rack, and everything else one needs for a day of adventuring. My 70 ounce hydration bladder slid smoothly into the internal mesh sleeve and the one side zipper access point let me dig out my first aid kit to grab a blister bandage when my hiking partner developed a bit of a hot spot.

While priced closer to a general backpacking pack the Mammut Trion 38 has all the features of high end mountaineering packs. Things like dual ice axe loops that also have the elastic T-shaped pieces to accomodate any type of waterfall or general mountaineering ice axes. Side compression straps that can allow you to securely carry your backcountry skis in an “A-frame” style carry. A large removable top lid with both internal and external pockets.

Mammut Trion 38 Backpack Review

For comfort the Mammut Trion 38 has a “Motion V Frame” back panel that is lightly padded, breathable, and very form fitting. Unique to a pack this size, in my experience, are the running vest style shoulder straps. I appreciated how wide and distributive the shoulder straps are once I got them properly adjusted and loved the convenience of carrying my iPhone 13 ProMax in the stretchy shoulder strap pockets that I think are more often used by trail runners to carry small bottles of water or energy gels.

Summary

Overall I was impressed with the features, design, and quality of a backpack of this size that retails for less the $200. My only negative was I dislike all black backpacks, but fortunately this pack comes in a nice high visible orange and the brand recognizable white & black. It feels quite spacious at 38 liters and I think there is more then enough carrying capacity for 3-4 day backpacking trips. If you are in the market for a solid all around backpack that can handle a pretty wide array of adventures take a close look at this one. Mammut also has an outstanding warranty and repair program should your pack ever need some TLC!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Get 10% off Rocky Talkies with Promo Code “AlpineStart10” HERE!

A media sample was provided by Mammut for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!

Testing the Petzl Neox: Efficiency in Hauling & Ascension Systems

I’ve now had the Petzl Neox for about two weeks and have been able to form some opinions and test it in applications I’m most interested in. The most recent day I spent at the cliff with it was focused on seeing how it performed as a progress capture in an improvised hauling system and in a rope ascension system. Both these uses are important to me for assisting a seconding climber or rescuing an injured lead climber, and places where I would traditionally be using a Petzl GriGri. Here is some raw footage of this round of testing and some of my thoughts.

I assumed the Petzl Neox would work great for progress capture in this systems due to the spinning internal cog wheel and it definitely felt efficient in both the hauling scenario and the rope climbing scenario. I will be doing another round of comparisons with a more realistic full body weight load on the system but the fact the wheel still spun in my rope ascension test leads me to think it will still spin with a full load in a hauling system. This took me a little while to wrap my head around because you can seen when the device sees a full load while single strand rappelling the cam rotates, the wheel stops spinning, and you control your descent with the friction of the rope moving through the created bend. Why wouldn’t the wheel rotate and lock like that while using it as a progress capture?

The answer comes down to physics and while not having anything close to a degree in physics I can see how the device isn’t getting the full load in these scenarios. The full load is on the “tractor”, or friction hitch, or the Petzl Tibloc. When you go to pull slack through the Petzl Neox at that part of the cycle there is almost no weight on the device so the cam does not engage and the wheel spins freely reducing effort in hauling and ascending. When you relax during the hauling process all the load goes back to the Petzl Neox and the cam engages. Same with ascending, when you transfer your weight from your foot loop back to your harness the necessary threshold is exceeded and the cam engages. When you put your weight into your foot loop to progress the weight comes off the device and it is easier to pull the slack through the device then the Petzl GriGri.

Summary

It is still early in our broader exposure to this new belay device but the videos have been pouring out from influencers, highly certified guides, and rock star YouTuber’s. My opinion will likely evolve over the course of the summer as I put more days on the device, and expose more beginner climbers to it. For now I will re-iterate that I really like how easy it is to pull slack while belaying from above, and the more I think about it I do think this device may be in someways safer for a newer belayer as the instructions basically encourage you to not tough the device while paying out slack. This device may help prevent the holding open of the cam at risky moments which was likely part of the motivation of the anti-panic feature that came with the Petzl GriGri+.

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I am really excited to announce I’ve partnered with HowNot2.com and can now offer my followers a 10% discount on anything you purchase at hownot2.com and support what I am doing with discount code “NEAlpineStart” <- capitalization does not matter!

See you in the mountains!

I hope this information is helpful for your to make an informed decision. While Petzl supplied me with a Neox to review this is not a sponsored post. Affiliate links above help me continue to spend time creating these videos and posts and I thank you for your support!

Petzl Neox Assisted Blocking Belay Device: Initial Look

Today I was able to get out to the cliff for a short bit to check out the newly released assisted blocking belay device, the Petzl Neox.

This is not a full in-depth review. It is a preliminary look at this new option in assisted blocking belay devices and I try to distinguish some of the obvious differences in the Petzl Neox, the Petzl GriGri, and the Petzl GriGri+. As time allows I will be diving more deeply into the topics I mention in the video. In the meantime please check out my initial thoughts and if you haven’t already please subscribe to the YouTube channel so I can keep sharing this type of content with all of you!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no addition cost to you. Thank you!

Free Range Equipment Canvas Packs: A Visual Delight for Climbers and Commuters

Earlier this year I received a sweet duffle bag and backpack from Free Range Equipment. This small brother & sister company with its roots in the Cascades has partnered with two dozen artists to create an assortment of visually stunning canvas packs. I received the Picket Range Duffel with art by Nikki Frumkin and the Dusk at Shuksan Pack with art by Gianna Andrews. I selected these two packs as I climbed Shuksan in 2017 as my first Cascade summit and during that same trip climbed Rainier and Forbidden Peak which isn’t too far from the Picket Range. I’ve wanted to get back to the Cascades for another climbing trip and the artwork on both these will keep reminding me I need to make a return trip soon!

Free Range Equipment Packs Review

I don’t usually review non-technical packs and these are designed more for travel and day-to-day type use, but I feel I’ve used them enough to share some opinions on them. The craftmanship of both is easily apparent even to the untrained eye. The canvas is thick and rugged, the zippers and stitch work are obviously high quality. The duffle is listed as 55 liters which makes it useful for for everything from a crag bag to regular travel luggage. A concealed backpack system is so concealed I didn’t even realize it was there until my second trip with the pack!

The smaller backpack is listed at 25 liters. It’s a perfect size for a gym or commuter bag and can easily hold my harness, climbing shoes, laptop, water and snacks for a trip to the local park, coffee shop, or climbing gym! It’s got a nice sized internal mesh pocket, a top pocket, etc, but there isn’t to much more for me to comment on with these packs, other than they are eye catching in the best way. I admit I’ve never been artistically talented but I love the style of both these artists and if you take a minute to look through all the offerings on the Free Range website you’ll likely find something that catches your eye.

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See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Media samples were provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you.

Tech Tip: Extending From Your Anchor For Better Communicaton

Rock Climbing Tech Tips
“The Fairy Tale Traverse”, Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle, Huntington Ravine, Mount Washington. Photo by Peter Brandon

Oftentimes we have anchors that are set back from the cliff edge. If we belay at these anchors communication can be hampered. In this video I demonstrate some of the methods you can use to extend yourself back to a position to improve communication (and provide better photo opportunities!).

A question from a follower last week asked “Can I just estimate the length, clove in, and leave my belay device up at the anchor?”. While that could work, it is generally a better practice to keep your belay device within arms reach. In the event you need to lower your partner, or build a 3:1 haul system to help them, it is more easily handled when the belay device is still within reach.

Another great way to improve communication is to climb with a pair of Rocky Talkies! These radios are incredibly rugged, lightweight, and are so much better to use than straining your vocal cords yelling “off belay” from 50 meters away. You can use promo code “AlpineStart10” at this link to get 10% off your own set of Rocky Talkies! A portion of every sale also sends money to Search & Rescue teams so I am quite proud to support this company!

If you found this video useful please take the time to like and subscribe so that I can keep putting effort into creating instruction videos like this one! Also you have any questions or comments please let me know below!

Gear Used In This Video:

Mammut Crag Dry Duodess Rope, 9.5mm

Wild Country Mosquito Pro Harness

Edelrid HMPE Cord Sling

CAMP USA Nimbus Locking Carabiner

Petzl Grigri 2 Belay Device

Clothing Worn In This Video:

RAB VR Summit Jacket

Salewa Puez Knit PTX Hiking Shoes

See you in the mountains!

Affiliate links above support the content created on this blog. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

Short Review: Paka “The Hoodie” and Sebastian Ski Socks

Paka Apparel Review

This winter I was introduced to a company that specializes in handmade sustainable Alpaca clothing, Paka Apparel. To experience the brand I received “The Hoodie” and a pair of their new Sebastian Ski Socks. While I usually review more technical clothing I was pretty excited to be exposed to a brand that has made some very positive impacts on a country I love, Peru. You can read the origin story here but I will just some it up that this company is incredibly environmentally conscious and ethical, paying their native workers more than live-able wages and providing university scholarships for many Peruvian women.

The Hoodie has quickly become my most worn non-technical piece of clothing this winter. It is the softest hoody I’ve ever owned and after ice climbing or backcountry skiing all day slipping into this hoodie is a joy. The material is so soft and thermoregulating I have found it is really comfortable for extended wear and I even find it great to sleep in. I prefer to sleep at a cooler room temperature then most (64 degrees) and the cozy warmth of this with the hood up definitely has led to some quality sleep. It’s a casual fit and a size large was perfect for my 5′ 9″ 185 LB 42 inch chest build.

The Sebastian Ski Socks fit great and the full length compression was welcomed on long tours. The size medium was perfect for my US size 9 feet.

If you are a fan of sustainable natural apparel from a company with solid ethics and practices take a look at Paka Apparel. They offer a full like of clothing from casual t-shirts to newly released insulated outer wear jackets underwear and more!

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through one of these links earns the author a small commission at no cost to you. Samples were provided to the author for purpose of review.

My Ice Climbing Kit

While the New England ice climbing season is off to a bit of a sluggish start a follower recently asked if I had a gear list for what I take ice climbing. Thanks for the inspiration for this post Kyle! I’m going to list items in the order that I usually pack my pack.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack Review

I’ve tested over a dozen packs specifically designed for waterfall ice climbing and this pack has held onto my #1 spot for best ice climbing pack. You can find my full review of this pack here.

Patagonia DAS Parka

If there is any chance of mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the reliability of a synthetic insulated belay parka, and the Patagonia DAS Parka is an industry leading choice.

Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket

If there is zero chance of encountering mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the warmth and packability of a down insulated belay parka, and for that the Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket is an excellent choice.

Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hooded Jacket Review

If it is wicked cold out I’ve been known to pack a second light puffy so I can “double up” on my belay jackets. Conversely, if it’s really mild out I might just up for carrying a lighter puffy then the two jackets I mention above. For that the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket is a great choice. You can find my recent detailed review of this one here.

32oz Wide Mouth Nalgene Water Bottle

I typically only carry one 32 ounce wide mouth water bottle for most ice climbing day trips. I do not use any type of insulated parka to keep it from freezing. I just pack in above my belay jackets and close to the small of my back. In the coldest of temps I have never had it freeze when packed up against my back. If I want something with more flavor then water I reach for some of my Skratch Labs stash. If it’s a really cold mission, or a really long day, I also pack an insulated water bottle with some Borvo Broth. This stuff really tastes amazing and is an excellent mid-day energy refresher!

AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit

I use the AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit as my base first aid kit then I add a few things to it that just live inside the kit. Like the Petzl e+lite headlamp, a small knife, and a small Bic lighter. I also slide a SAM splint down into the back sleeve of my backpack along with a CAT tourniquet.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Ice Screw Case

Hyperlight Mountain Gear Prism Ice Pack Review

This case is perfect for packing and protecting my ice screws. I’ve used Petzl and Black Diamond screws for over two decades of ice climbing with few complaints. This season I have swapped out almost my entire rack for a set of the new Blue Ice Aero Ice Screws. I’ll have a review out on these as soon as Mother Nature brings the ice back into condition. For sizes my typical set up is one 22cm, eight 13cm, and one 10cm. If heading to the bigger ice at Willoughby I will add four 17 to 19cm screws. I carry a Grivel Candela V-Thread Tool which conveniently nestles inside my 22cm ice screw. In the zippered pocket in the ice screw case I have some zip ties and the allen wrench for my CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools.

Author on Black Pudding Gully, WI4 – photo by Brent Doscher

For clipping ice screws on lead I highly prefer the Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraws. Notchless wire gate carabiners are the best, and the larger rope side carabiner on these draws is glove friendly. It’s also a better carabiner if you ever climb on a two rope system. I carry 8 of these racked on a Petzl William Screw Locking Carabiner. On this carabiner I also have a “locker draw” that I build from a Petzl Express Quickdraw Sling and two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners. There is also one “alpine draw” built with a 60cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling and two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners clipped to this large locking carabiner, a 180cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling with two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners, and a pre-tied “mini-quad“.

The rest of my climbing hardware is all clipper to a large locking carabiner and includes two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners, my DMM Pivot Belay Device, a 16 foot length of Sterling Power Cord, a traditional 6mm cord tied into a small prussic, a 40cm Edelrid Aramid Cord, and a small carabiner knife.

Inside my Hyperlite Prism Crampon Bag are my Petzl Dart Crampons and I often stuff a pair of Kahtoola MICROspikes in there as well.

Next I stuff my warmer Black Diamond Guide Gloves in. It has to be heinous out there for me to end up switching into these beasts but I won’t risk not being able to keep my hands warm in the winter so these get packed even though I rarely wear them. I do most of my ice leading wearing CAMP USA Geko Ice Pro Gloves and Rab Power Stretch Pro Glove Liners.

Inside my Petzl Sirocco Helmet (review) or Salewa Piuma 3.0 Helmet (I love both these helmets) I pack my preferred ice climbing harness which is the Petzl Sitta (my review) outfitted with three Petzl Caritools.

Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon

In the top pocket of my pack I stick my Petzl IKO Core Headlamp along with some hand warmers, my snacks and food for the day. And since I know you are wondering what my favorite on mountain food choice is I’ll share that hands down the best food to take ice climbing is left over pizza from Flatbread NoCo!

For a rope I prefer the Sterling Rope Fushion Nano IX 9mm by 60m rope. It’s a triple rated rope (single, twin, half) so it is ideal for guiding two clients on multi-pitch ice. I have two of them in the bi-pattern.

While I already mentioned it above my ice tools of choice are the CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools. You can find my original in depth review of these tools here.

Finally on the outside of my shoulder strap I clip my Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio. If you’ve been following me for awhile you know I’m a huge fan of these radios. They make climbing & skiing so much better than it was before. Did you know you can get ten percent off of them with code “AlpineStart10”?

Links above are affiliate links. That means if you make a purchase from an online retailer after visiting those links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. These commissions keep this blog afloat. Thank you.

Well that pretty much sums up what I pack for a day of ice climbing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I can go into my clothing system in another post if there is interest. Did I miss anything? What do you bring that I don’t? Got any questions about anything in my kit? Please comment below if you do have a question or if you found this post helpful in anyway. Temperatures are finally getting colder so I’m hoping to get out later this week and actually use this gear for what it is intended for!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Common Use FRS Zone Channels in the White Mountains

With the welcomed increase of backcountry travelers using FRS and GMRS radios for internal group communication it is time we utilize a “Common Use Zone” system to improve group to group communication in the most popular zones of our region.

Modeled after the Utah Avalanche Center’s “Group to Group Radio Channel Initiative” this system would be for these intended uses:

Intended Uses & Radio Protocols:
  • A way for riders to communicate with people within their party and more importantly communicate with potential groups below and above you and your group.
  • To send a distress call to your group and other parties to aid in self rescue and to alert of potential threatening avalanche hazards.
  • To ask for someone to call 911 to mount an organized rescue, when 911 can’t be reached directly on your own.
  • Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
  • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
  • Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area

Radio Communication between you and your group:
  • Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
  • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
  • Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area
  • General communication

Radio Communication between multiple groups:
  • Route selection and timing to avoid riding directly above other groups
  • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
  • Radio communication when your group is clear of a given line or area, alerting other groups of a clear run-out zone
  • General communication

Here are some examples of the types of communication you might share or hear on these common use zone channels:

“This is Sarah on channel 21 reaching the ridge via the south snowfields. With no signs of instability and inconclusive hand shears our party of three is heading over to the top of Main Gully”

“This is Mark on channel 20, we just pulled out a small wind slab on our approach into Left Gully. Due to poor visibility we are transitioning here and dropping the bottom third of Left in a few minutes.”

“Mayday, mayday, mayday. This is Lisa on channel 19, we have a medical emergency near the base of Yale Gully. We are unable to raise 911. Does any one copy?”

The use of these radios does not take the place of solid decision making and carrying a Personal Locator Beacon like the Garmin inReach Mini 2 that can initiate a rescue if outside of both cell phone service and the limited range of FRS/GMRS radios.

It’s important to understand that most FRS radios are single channel monitoring. Some GMRS radios can monitor two channels simultaneously but may require a license.

The Common Use Zone Channel List*

Tuckerman RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 22
Gulf of SlidesFRS/GMRS Channel 21
East Snowfields & Raymond CataractFRS/GMRS Channel 20
Huntington RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 19
Great GulfFRS/GMRS Channel 18
Burt RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 17
Ammonoosuc RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 16
Oakes Gulf/Dry RiverFRS/GMRS Channel 15
Crawford NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 14
Franconia NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 13
Evans NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 12
GBA GladesFRS/GMRS Channel 11

*No CT or Privacy Codes (0)

In order to send and receive traffic on these channels from other groups you must ensure your radio is not using a CT/DTS privacy code. Check your radio’s user manual on how to turn these privacy codes off (or set to zero).

Recommended Radios

Common Use FRS Zone Channels
The author touring a slide path in Burt Ravine (Channel 17) with his Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio

Rocky Talkie Mountain FRS Radio <- My pick for 95% of people 10% off with “ALPINESTART10”

Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio My pick for professional mountain guides, avalanche course instructors, search & rescue teams 10% off with “ALPINESTART10”

Backcountry Access BC Link 2.0 FRS Radio

Backcountry Access BC Link Mini FRS Radio

Motorola Talkabout T600 H20 2-Way FRS Radios

*Due to using over 2 watts of power of the Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio requires licensing with the FCC. The process is quite simple online, took me about 30 minutes to complete, and cost $35. Detailed instructions how how to obtain a license can be found here. The above links are affiliate links which means if you purchase a radio through these links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

I’m hoping this suggestion becomes widely adapted by our backcountry community. Since a growing percentage of backcountry travelers are already carrying radios it makes good sense that we improve the overall communities safety by adapting a common use zone list like this.

ZONE MAP STICKERS! $2 each!

Common Use FRS Zone Channel Map

3 x 3 inch stickers of the zone map pictured above are available! Put one in your field book and on your skis or board! $2ea., free pickup in Conway, NH, or $1 S&H. Venmo preferred. Please include local pickup or shipping address with payment.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

References

https://utahavalanchecenter.org/education/group-group-radio-channel-initiative

UTILIZING COMMON RADIO CHANNELS IN HIGH-USE AVALANCHE TERRAIN

Rocky Talkie List of Community Channels by State

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Conditions That Promote the Growth of Surface Hoar (And SnowVisa Giveaway!)

Yesterday I posed the question, “What are the conditions that promote the growth of Surface Hoar”. There were many correct answers. Let’s dive a little deeper into the conditions and take it beyond the level 1 understanding.

In my AIARE 1 avalanche courses I teach students to remember the three “C’s” that promote the growth of surface hoar.

Cold- Unsurprisingly it needs to be below freezing (32°F, 0ºC) for surface hoar to form.

Clear- The mechanisms that drive the growth of surface hoar require rapid radiative heat loss from the snowpack. This only occurs on clear nights. Cloud cover has an insulating effect on the earth and pretty much prevents the type of heat loss needed for this process to occur.

Calm- Surface hoar crystals, once formed, are vulnerable to moderate wind speeds. The ice forms have very little horizontal strength, and if you find a pocket of decent sized surface hoar you can test this easily by getting close to the crystals and giving them a hearty blow of air from your own lungs.

That is pretty much the level 1 type knowledge I instill in my students. Now let’s dive deeper into other important considerations that contribute to the snowpack’s ability to form surface hoar.

Humidity & Dewpoint– Basically surface hoar is winter’s equivalent of “dew”. There must be a high level of humidity (over 70%) in the air right at ground level.

Air movement– Since the crystal growth of surface hoar is removing vapor (moisture) from the air as it grows that moisture must be replaced for the crystals to keep growing. The air movement required is so light that an observer would record “calm” for wind speed.

Temperature Inversion/Gradient– A strong inverted temperature gradient is needed right at the snow surface. This gradient is best achieved by the rapid radiative heat loss scenario promoted by cold clear nights. Even a light breeze will remove this ground level inversion and inhibit growth.

Now that we’ve gotten the sciencey weather stuff out of the way let’s get into some practical terrain considerations for the topic.

Sheltered/Lee– Since we know any noticeable wind inhibits surface hoar growth we can expect to find it in areas protected from the wind, i.e. lee.

Canopy– Because surface hoar requires rapid radiative heat loss any tree canopy will inhibit growth. Surface hoar is often found in clearings that are not obstructed by any tree cover.

Aspect– It is reasonable to assume northern aspects may be more likely to grow surface hoar as they are colder aspects. In areas with predominant west winds (White Mountains) you may have more luck finding surface hoar on your North to East aspects.

Elevation– Since above treeline conditions rarely promote the growth of surface hoar this weak layer is more common below treeline, and in the right conditions middle elevations.

Slope Angle– Surface hoar has what is called “anisotropic” structure. What this basically means is it is strong on the vertical axis and very weak on the horizontal axis. This property is the main reason it is such a reactive weak layer when buried by new snow. Its ability to withstand gradual increases in load until it reaches its breaking point is why in certain snow climates it’s the primary issue for human triggered avalanches. It is also why you would not expect this in steeper start zones. In the rare case of this forming on a 40 degree start zone of an alpine gully any cohesive snow that falls on top of it will quickly overwhelm its horizontal strength. Field observations show this is a common layer for remotely triggering avalanches on flat terrain. Twenty five degree rollovers are also commonly triggered on surface hoar.

Slope Shape– Research shows that concave slopes inhibit growth. This is due to the reduced radiative heat loss on concave slopes. Conversely, convex slopes may see more progressive growth as they can accelerate rapid radiative heat loss and a stronger surface left temperature gradient. Yet another reason convexities on a slope are common trigger points.

Proximity to Water– Because the ground level humidity needs replenishment you can often find this growing next to creeks, streams, and steam “vents”. These “vents” are pretty cool, even on a negative temperature day if you stick your thermometer in one of them you’ll find the air temp hovering around freezing (32°F, 0ºC).

Snow Climate– The prior mentioned weather conditions are most common in Continental (Rocky Mountain) snow climates. Surface hoar can, and does, form in any snow climate, but it’s most prevalent in Continental snow climates.

Local Examples– I have found a few places in Mount Washington Valley that I consider “surface hoar farms”.

The most reliable spot I have found is just south of the trestle cut at the top of Crawford Notch where some sheltered steam vents on the west side of the tracks often have surface hoar crystals around them. Unfortunately the railroad is active this winter and no trespassing signs are posted so I don’t recommend heading there.

The field just outside the AMC Highland Center has had some brilliant surface hoar displays over the years through they are usually short lived as calm clear weather doesn’t last long at the top of the notch.

The base of the Cog Railway has small slopes that have produced some of the largest surface hoar crystals I have ever seen in person, some up to 4 centimeters in size!

I’ll often find small pockets on the sides of the Tuckerman Ravine Trail but the spot on the east side of Mount Washington I’ve had the most luck is on the Summer Lion Head trail, right as the trail steepens and crosses an old avalanche path there are a couple small steam vents on the left side that have a clear view of the sky (thanks to old avalanche activity).

Summary– Well that’s about it for my brain dump on surface hoar. Hope you’ve learned something new about what is likely my favorite type of ice formation. For more reading you can check out The Avalanche Handbook. It’s where most of my information is derived and a great resource for those who really want to dive into the minutiae of avalanche formation.

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See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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