For this review I asked my friend and colleague Dominic Torro to take this Hyperlite Mountain Gear Crux 40 Backpack and run it through the ringer. Over the last year he has tested it across the Beartooth Mountains (MT), Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, 14,000-15,000 foot peaks in Chile, ice climbing, and winter ski mountaineering!
All thoughts and images are courtesy of Dominic. Enjoy!
Overview
The Hyperlite Crux 40 is a lightweight, winter-specific alpine pack built for ski mountaineering, ice climbing, and technical mountain travel. After extended use across a wide range of environments and conditions, it has proven to be comfortable, durable, and thoughtfully designed—though not without a few notable limitations.
Carry & Fit
The Crux 40 carries extremely well and conforms closely to the natural curvature of the spine. Even with heavier winter loads, the pack remains stable and comfortable over long days in technical terrain. For a 40-liter pack, usable volume is excellent, especially when run without the top lid.
External Features
Mesh Shove-It Pocket
The external mesh pocket is one of the standout features of the pack. It’s ideal for quickly stashing layers, gloves, or other frequently accessed items while on the move.
Ski Carry
The A-frame ski carry system works reliably and has performed well in real-world use. A diagonal ski carry option exists but feels secondary and would benefit from further refinement or inclusion as a standard feature.
Rear Entry
Rear-panel access is useful in winter conditions and allows for quick access to gear without fully unpacking the bag. That said, the opening could be slightly larger to improve usability.
Ice Axe Carry System
The ice axe carry system was designed very well with two clips securing the axe heads and a bungee to secure the handle/shaft.
Top Lid (Brain)
The removable top lid is the weakest element of the pack’s design. When the pack is not fully stuffed, the brain does not remain securely attached—even when the straps are fully cinched. On shorter ski missions, the lid has unclipped and fallen off while skiing. As a result, the pack is most often used without the brain, relying instead on the roll-top closure.
Internal Organization & Avalanche Tools
The internal avalanche-tool pockets function well overall and provide efficient, organized access. However, the shovel pocket can interfere with loading a helmet into the top of the main compartment, reducing flexibility in gear configuration.
Durability & Weather Resistance
Durability aligns with expectations from Hyperlite Mountain Gear. The materials are highly abrasion-resistant and effectively waterproof in most conditions. One limitation is the bottom panel: if the pack is left sitting on snow or wet ground for extended periods, moisture can slowly soak through and affect items packed low in the bag, such as insulated layers.
Additional Design Notes
A hydration-port opening is included at the top of the pack. For a winter-focused design, this feature feels unnecessary and can allow snow intrusion when the pack is used in roll-top mode. Perhaps it is meant for an external radio mic like the ones available on Rocky Talkies. The hip belt pocket sits a little too far back, making it difficult to reach without removing the pack. A more forward placement and increased depth would improve accessibility.
Bottom Line
The Hyperlite Mountain Gear Crux 40 Backpack is a capable and well-executed alpine pack with excellent carry comfort, durability, and functional external storage. While the core design is strong, improvements to the top lid security, hip belt pocket placement, avalanche-tool layout, and diagonal ski carry would meaningfully enhance performance. EDITORS NOTE: An optional Diagonal Ski Carry Kit exists but is currently out of stock. It is best suited for users who prefer running the pack without the top lid and want a clean, technical winter platform.
About the Author
Dominic Torro is a backcountry skier and ski mountaineer who grew up in New Hampshire. He has skied across the western United States and internationally, pursuing big-mountain objectives. Dominic is a guide and instructor with Redline Guiding in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, as well as in Vermont and Maine.
Gallery
Disclaimer: A media sample was provided for purpose of review. All opinions are that of the author. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of these links the owner of this website earns a small commission at not addition cost to you. Thank you!
Proper hydration is fundamental to safety and performance in the outdoors. Whether you’re hiking, climbing, or conducting a Search and Rescue (SAR) mission, fluid balance directly impacts your endurance, decision-making, and recovery.
According to the U.S. National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine, the recommended daily fluid intake is:
Men: approximately 15.5 cups (3.7 liters / 124 ounces)
Women: approximately 11.5 cups (2.7 liters / 92 ounces)
During moderate physical activity—such as hiking—you’ll need an additional 0.5 to 1 liter (16–32 ounces) of water per hour to maintain hydration. For a six-hour hike, that means 3 to 6 liters (100–200 ounces) of water.
For Search and Rescue personnel, physical demands are often greater, especially when carrying a litter or heavy gear. In these situations, water needs can increase even further. However, carrying more than 3 liters is often impractical, so season-specific strategies become essential.
The Sawyer Mini is compact, lightweight, and compatible with most standard threaded 1/4″ water bottles—ideal for both outdoor recreation and Everyday Carry (EDC) setups. This system provides flexibility and ensures I always have access to safe drinking water, even on extended operations.
Fall and Winter Hydration Strategy
Cold-weather hydration presents unique challenges. Even insulated hydration bladders are prone to freezing in the tubing and mouthpiece, which can quickly cut off your water supply. After experiencing this issue firsthand, I now avoid hydration bladders entirely in below-freezing temperatures.
This setup ensures reliable access to water in any conditions and allows for hot meals or morale-boosting drinks, which are invaluable in cold or high-stress environments.
Hydration and Nutritional Supplements
Maintaining hydration isn’t just about water—it’s also about electrolyte balance and nutritional support.
Throughout the year, I carry Tailwind Nutrition hydration supplements to replenish electrolytes and sustain energy. During cold-weather operations, I add Borvo Broth, which provides warmth, electrolytes, and an energy boost when fatigue or chill set in.
Both products have strong scientific backing, but more importantly, they have proven effective in real-world SAR and backcountry conditions.
Best Practices for Outdoor Hydration
To optimize hydration in the field:
Plan ahead. Estimate water needs based on duration, intensity, and temperature.
Adapt seasonally. Choose hydration systems and strategies suited to current conditions.
Use filtration. Carry a compact, reliable water filter for resupply in the field.
Monitor intake. Thirst is a late indicator—drink regularly to maintain performance.
Supplement smartly. Include electrolytes or nutrient-rich drinks to sustain energy and prevent cramps.
Conclusion
Water is life—and in the outdoors, hydration is performance. Whether you’re a recreational hiker or a professional Search and Rescue operator, having a thoughtful, adaptable hydration plan is critical for success and safety.
By tailoring your strategy to the environment and equipping yourself with the right tools, you can stay hydrated, alert, and mission-ready in any conditions.
Stay safe, stay hydrated, and I’ll see you in the mountains. — Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!
Every outdoor adventure gear list includes a first aid kit. However, possessing first aid supplies is far less important than having some level of first aid knowledge. Most search and rescue organizations either require or highly encourage their members to obtain a Wilderness First Aid (WFA) certification. Those seeking greater confidence in their ability to treat common injuries and illnesses in the backcountry should aim for a Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certification. Advanced SAR teams may also include Wilderness EMTs or AEMTs, along with ER nurses or physicians.
These courses are offered by a few organizations all over the country. If you are located in the Northeastern US I highly recommend taking one of these courses at SOLO in Conway, New Hampshire. Not only does SOLO have some of the best instructors in the outdoor emergency treatment field their campus, classrooms, and “Toad Hall” lodging have a very warm and welcoming vibe.
Image from soloschools.com
Patient care is generally the responsibility of the highest-trained team member present. But everyone starts with little or no training, and progresses from there. Before purchasing or assembling a first aid kit, I strongly recommend obtaining proper training. Not only does training clarify what should be in your kit, but it also prepares you for real emergencies. Fortunately, there are many avenues for affordable or even free first aid training options.
In the outdoor and rescue communities, CPR certification from the American Red Cross or the American Heart Association is emphasized. While CPR is often included in WFA or Wilderness First Responder courses, it can also be taken as a standalone course. That said, I believe practicing bleeding control should be prioritized more highly. In outdoor settings—and even during everyday life—the likelihood of encountering a medical emergency requiring effective bleeding management far exceeds the need for CPR skills. Car accidents, workplace incidents, household mishaps, and firearm-related injuries all demand swift, decisive action to improve outcomes.
To that end, I highly recommend completing the free online Stop The Bleed course offered by the American College of Surgeons. It takes less than an hour, and while online-only training lacks hands-on practice, the knowledge gained provides a solid foundation. After completing this program or an equivalent, the next step is to add a quality tourniquet to your everyday carry (EDC). A tourniquet is your best chance at stopping life-threatening bleeding before the patient can reach advanced medical care. Keep one in each vehicle, as car accidents frequently cause injuries requiring tourniquet application. If you work with firearms—whether in law enforcement, hunting, or self-defense—it’s wise to carry a tourniquet on your person at all times.
Be cautious of cheap tourniquets sold on Amazon; I’ve heard too many stories of handles breaking during application. I recommend the CAT Gen 7 Tourniquet by North American Rescue, which I keep in my range bag, vehicles, rescue pack, and emergency sling pack. I also carry the RATS Tourniquet, especially useful for small children, as it reportedly performs better on them.
Once you’ve completed the Stop The Bleed course, explore other free online first aid trainings through a simple Google search. Ideally, you’ll find time to attend in-person Wilderness First Aid or Wilderness First Responder courses, which offer invaluable hands-on experience and help you fine-tune your kit. While some prefer to assemble their first aid kits from scratch for cost savings, I recommend starting with a high-quality commercial kit and supplementing it with additional supplies. Two reputable brands I’ve used are Adventure Medical Kits and My Medic.
You can also learn by following some medical related Instagram/YouTube channels. I recommend following North American Rescue and Medical Talks on Instagram. <- Graphic Sensitive Content Warning! Both these account show graphic injuries quite often.
Summary: While a small first aid kit suffices for recreational hikes, SAR team members often respond to injuries or accidents requiring more advanced supplies and skills. As such, your kit should be more comprehensive than a typical hiking first aid kit. I hope this guidance helps you acquire the training and equipment necessary to treat minor injuries effectively and, in critical situations, potentially save a life.**
Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue
Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:
While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.
Comments? Questions?
Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to first aid kits or training or my suggestions.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: The author is not a doctor and this post is not intended to provide medical advice. The opinions above come from the author’s experience as a Wilderness First Responder and Search & Rescue Team member. Seek proper instruction from qualified trainers. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of these links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!
With over twenty years of service on multiple Search and Rescue teams in the White Mountains of New Hampshire I’ve had plenty of time to dial in what I carry on missions. My rescue pack is different from my typical guiding pack in a couple ways.
First, I carry more tools for off trail navigation than what I pack for guiding trade routes that I have traveled hundreds of times.
Second, I carry the gear I need to comfortably spend a night out in the woods if need be. In this series I’m going to break down every item in my pack and go into detail about each item, its purpose, and make brand and model recommendations for each piece.
Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass
Despite my affinity for digital GPS navigation I do still carry a quality liquid filled magnetic compass. My requirements for a compass are accuracy, durability, and dependability. For over two decades I’ve relied on the Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass.
This compass checks all my boxes.
Accurate?
The manufacturer claimed accuracy is to 2 degrees and the resolution is also 2 degrees. With the sighting mirror and dual elevation sight-notches I can take very precise bearings in the field. The full length compass when opened supports accurate single point and dual point resection. In practice I’ve covered a few miles of off trail travel, both dense forest areas and barren alpine zones, and found my objective every time with this compass.
Durable?
In twenty years I’ve never broken on of these compasses. They are rugged. I’ve only replaced it once when it went missing during one of the avalanche courses I was teaching. I’m pretty sure a student accidentally took it home after a field session. Speaking of avalanche safety this compass has a built in clinometer which measures slope angle.
Not only is this ability crucial for avalanche safety but it’s helpful with navigation as well. If you’re trying to determine if a nearby peak is higher or lower than your current location a clinometer can accurately answer that for you.
(The back arrow above indicates a 35 degree slope along the top or bottom edge of the clear base plate)
Dependable?
One of the biggest reasons I still carry a physical mirrored compass is because of how often I work in cold weather conditions. Smartphones are very susceptible to the kind of temperature I both recreate in, and serve in when on a SAR mission. Even keeping my iPhone warm in an inner chest pocket I have seen the screen stop working in mere seconds when exposed to below freezing temperatures. I have used my mirrored compass during above tree-line searches in sub-zero temperatures. Suunto claims the liquid used will not freeze until -30° C / -22° F.
For occasional recreational use this compass may be a bit more than you need. For light recreational use I recommend my students purchase a model like the Suunto A-10 NH Compass or better if their budget can afford it.
The Suunto M-3 NH Compass is a good mid-range choice. For professional level use for someone who plans to spend a fair amount of time traveling off the beaten paths I highly recommend the added accuracy of a mirrored compass.
I’ve always found success with Suunto compasses but I have a friend and colleague who teaches Wilderness Survival and Wilderness First Responder Courses and he is a big fan of Brunton, so with his trusted endorsement I am including that brand as well below with some general comments on each high end model.
Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass – If you travel internationally this is the model to get as the patented global needle will work anywhere in the world.
Suunto MC-2 NH Mirrored Compass – If your adventures are contained to the Northern Hemisphere this is the model for you. Took me a hot minute to figure out that “NH” didn’t stand for my beloved state of New Hampshire, but for “Northern Hemisphere”. The needle is designed to float freely anywhere north of the Equator.
Brunton Truarc15 Luminescent Compass– My colleague, who probably spends more time then most traveling through the woods in the dark, is a fan of this compass. It certainly looks to me to be a very solid choice for a professional level compass.
Summary
While this series will likely cover the rest of the “ten essentials” soon I purposely started with the compass before the map. If I had to pick between navigating with only a compass or a map, I would choose a compass. While my improvised/survival navigation skills are quite sharp, a compass lets me follow a very specific bearing into trail-less wilderness in darkness or fog for a few miles, and return back my starting point often within a few dozen feet. This type of competent navigation is only gained through dedicated practice in the field and would be impossible with just a map and no compass.
Get Skilled
If terms like “declination” and “resection” are not familiar to you I would highly suggest seeking out a quality course in Wilderness Navigation. There are many options from free clinics offered by hiking clubs to high level courses. I actually developed my own 8 hour course after not finding a course anywhere that offered the type of classroom/field session lessons I think are effective. Feel free to reach out if you’d like to book a Wilderness Navigation Course with me! I also have a small selection of YouTube videos covering some compass topics you can check out here!
Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue
Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:
While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.
Comments? Questions?
Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to compasses or my suggestions. Let me know what your favorite compass model is! Do you feel competent with compass navigation? Have you practiced recently?
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to the reader. Thank you!
This winter I have been using the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe for guiding winter Mount Washington ascents. I have also been using it for teaching mountaineering skills courses. The bottom line? This is a solid choice for a general mountaineering axe with some nice features. I chose the 68 centimeter size for my 5’9″ height. The axe is also available in 50, 60, and 75 centimeter lengths. The 68 centimeter size weighs 365 grams.
The head of the axe has a classic shaped pick which is most effective for self-arrest. The sharper and more aggressive tip of the pick is suitable for overcoming the occasional ice bulge. The adze is wider than most similar style axes. It provides a comfortable grip when using the traveling hand position (piolet panne). The small concave dip at the top of the shaft adds comfort for the self-arrest grip. The tool comes with the “LINKIN” removable leash, a $20 value. Personally I don’t like to use leashes on my ice tools so I did remove it before testing.
A removable pick protector is included. For casual climbs without much fall hazard I think it makes sense to leave the tip protector on. As your route becomes more technical with occasional ice bulges and more exposure to long sliding falls I would choose to leave the protector at home or in the car at the trail-head.
A removable spike protector is included as well. I liked how I could slide this up the tool during a casual ascent. This way, it would not interfere with proper “piolet canne” technique. After the axe was put back on my pack and I took my trekking poles out it was quick and easy to cover the sharp spike.
After a half dozen trips into the mountains with the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe, I can easily recommend it. It is suitable for anyone shopping for a well-designed general mountaineering axe. More important than what axe you buy though is that you seek out the training in its proper use. Consider taking a Mountaineering Skills Course so that you can learn proper crampon and ice axe technique before relying on this equipment to protect you. You can use the contact page here to check my availability if you would like to request me as your guide.
Here is a quick video we shot yesterday after a successful summit of Mount Washington where I point out basic nomenclature of a mountaineering axe.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
In the rolling hills of western New Hampshire in the small township of Pike, a unique and inviting new lodging property has opened on the slopes of Iron Mountain. The Innstead Mountain Getaway is exactly what its name implies. In our three day, two night stay we experienced the hospitality expected from a charming New England Inn coupled with a space artfully designed to help your family unplug and unwind.
Reservation Process:
Currently there are three options available to book on the property. Upper and Lower Guest House, both of which can accommodate up to four guests, and the larger “Pike Station” which can sleep six. For our visit we stayed in the contemporary designed accessible (no stairs) Lower Guest House. A few days before our arrival we received helpful emails from Bill and Siobhan, the hosts and general managers, with information on the self check-in process, nearby attractions, property maps highlighting the extensive trail network on site, and more.
Our Experience:
When we arrived in the later afternoon (check-in time is anytime after 3pm) we saw Bill and his children ice skating on the pond just a couple hundred feet from our car. Bill greeted us and we learned he had just confirmed the depth of the ice and cleared off the snow from the areas thick enough to skate on. They kids were having a blast and I made a note we would be bringing ice skates next time we visit.
My son, age 12, and my daughter, age 8, ran to the door of our rental excited as always to see where we would be staying for a few days. Upon entering my daughter made the observation that there was no TV! We let her know that was by design, because the interior and exterior area of The Innstead are created to help families reconnect away from the digital distractions of our time. With that in mind there is still ample WiFi on the property so if you need to stay connected to work you can. Our unit had plenty to keep our family involved during our indoor time including chess, Scrabble, Mancala, Uno, and our own North Conway version of Monopoly we brought from home!
Before settling in for the evening we walked over to “The Doghouse”. This common building is a place to hangout with other guests, grab a complimentary snack or seltzer, and get some coffee and light baked goods and fresh fruit in the mornings. A short patio path from here leads to a fire pit where nightly Smore’s are made available (weather permitting).
Back in our room we settled in for an early evening with plans to go skiing at the Dartmouth Skiway the next morning. The Lower Guesthouse has a queen size bed in a small bedroom separated by the main living area by curtain. The sofa had a pullout queen sized bed that the kids took command of. We all slept great thanks to the quality mattresses and linens provided. We also appreciated the climate control of the Mini Split air conditioners.
Through a partnership with the Dartmouth Skiway we were able to purchase discounted lift tickets directly from The Innstead for only $30 per person (vs. $60 weekend window rates). It’s only about a 35 minute scenic drive to the Dartmouth Skiway and we enjoyed the scenic rolling farmland and the impressive Peaked Mountain that dramatically came into view around a corner.
I’ll save our experience at the Dartmouth Skiway for another post but will just mention that we had an excellent time there due to the quality snow making, grooming, terrain, and small mountain vibe. Other ski mountains within easy day tripping distance of The Innstead include:
We returned to the property around 3:30pm and after checking local sunset time I decided to get ambitious and try to skin up Iron Mountain to check out one of the newest glade zones to be added to the Granite Backcountry Alliance. The rest of the family settled down for a little siesta while I put skins to skis and started up the well marked Joan Wolter trail from essentially the door of our lodging. This was an 1,100 foot climb over 1.6 miles long. Since I was hoping to beat sunset I kept a 20 minute/mile pace up the average 10% grade and I reached the summit in just under 50 minutes. Along the way I noted how much work has been done by The Pike Glades to artfully glade some steeper zones on the hillside along with some beautiful looking open fields that would be perfect for the beginner backcountry enthusiast to enjoy the sport.
Just below the geographic summit I took 10 minutes on the porch of a small rustic cabin charmingly called, “The Shire” on my CalTopo map to savor the views east of the frosted Mount Moosilauke, one of the most popular NH 4000 Footers, this one standing tall at 4,802 in elevation, the highest point between the Connecticut River Valley and the I93 corridor to the east. To the west I caught the last glimpses of sun and being unfamiliar with the vantage tried to see if I could spot Camel’s Hump in Vermont but couldn’t locate it given the visibility and possibly not having enough altitude.
Since light would wane quickly, I was solo, and the snow conditions were pretty thin for true glade skiing, I made the conservative choice to descend via the John Wolter Trail whose trailhead is the public access point for this Granite Backcountry Alliance zone off our NH Route 25, East Haverhill, and is basically the uphill skin route from that parking lot. This would also let me almost completely circumnavigate the whole area and make for a fun loop trip. During the descent I briefly stopped at “The Warrior’s Cabin”, which had a moving tribute to those who have fought for our freedoms. The former Marine in me let out a little “ooh-ra” before I continued my descent choosing lower “O’Brien Way” and “Yahoo/Yahoo Cutoff” to cut back over to The Innstead and avoid any road walking. With just a couple sections of flatter terrain and some herring-bone I was carving the last couple of turns right down to our cozy lodging an hour and a half after departing.
Bill greeted me in the parking lot to inquire on the conditions I found and the route I took. An AMC led tour group was coming the next day and he had plans to connect with them out on the trails. After a quick shower (excellent bathroom with quality organic soaps, shampoos, and towels) the family, mostly recovered from 4 hours of lift service and one slightly tired from one hot backcountry lap, jumped in the family van and headed to Bradford, VT, just 20 minutes away for a fantastic dinner at the Italian eatery, Colatina Exit. Call ahead for this place, the food and service makes it a hot spot. We were very happy with our meals and will definitely return if we are in the area again. Side tip, the GPS route to Bradford, VT from The Innstead is pretty much equidistant if you head south on Route 10 to the Piermont Bridge crossing, or travel north on Route 10 to the Newbury Crossing Road bridge. Because of that we recommend if visiting Bradbury to make it a loop trip so you can cross both state-line bridges and see more of the countryside!
Sidenote: Quietude
Coming from the bustling tourist area of Mount Washington Valley it was nice to be in an area with an old NH/VT feel. There is no Uber or Door Dash available here. Plan accordingly. Confirmation emails list the closest grocery stores based on what direction you are coming from. The Innstead room kitchens are fully equipped with brand new quality appliances. You could certainly save some money and just cook on site during your visit. We chose to spend some money in the surrounding towns and didn’t regret a single meal we had.
As we returned to The Innstead with full bellies and tired legs we caught sight of the lit up “Doghouse” up on the hillside just before turning up the long driveway. Even though we had only been guests for two days it felt like we were coming home in a way. While we had stayed out past the traditional Smore’s time the embers were still burning and even though we got our kiddos quickly into their PJ’s the Smore’s supplies were still out in the Doghouse and after chatting with Bill a bit about the inspiring growth and vision he and his wife have for the property I turned in for the evening and surprised both kiddos with a late night Smore treat… then made them brush their teeth again.
On the final morning we made one more stop at the beautiful Doghouse for some great coffee and home baked goods (Gramma Higgins coffee cake, handed down to Bill from his maternal grandmother!) before leaving for home. Siobhan and Bill joined us for some conversation regarding the current and future plans for their impressive property while my kiddos got to work making bead bracelets and necklaces with their own young daughters.
If you are looking for a place to unwind and unplug, to enjoy the natural world and its variety of weather conditions and lighting, somewhere with excellent hiking trails but not a lot of traffic, a vibe and energy that help you leave your phone in “Do Not Disturb” mode even though there is WiFi available, you should look at booking a stay at The Innstead Mountain Getaway.
Discount for Northeast Alpine Start Followers!
From now until the end of May my readers can get 15% off their stay at The Innstead with promo code “AlpineStart15“! There is a 2-night minimum stay but otherwise no restrictions!
Disclaimer: The author and his family were compensated a two night stay at this lodging in exchange for sharing their experience. No other compensation was made and all opinions stated are that of the author.
While the New England ice climbing season is off to a bit of a sluggish start a follower recently asked if I had a gear list for what I take ice climbing. Thanks for the inspiration for this post Kyle! I’m going to list items in the order that I usually pack my pack.
I’ve tested over a dozen packs specifically designed for waterfall ice climbing and this pack has held onto my #1 spot for best ice climbing pack. You can find my full review of this pack here.
If there is any chance of mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the reliability of a synthetic insulated belay parka, and the Patagonia DAS Parka is an industry leading choice.
If there is zero chance of encountering mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the warmth and packability of a down insulated belay parka, and for that the Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket is an excellent choice.
If it is wicked cold out I’ve been known to pack a second light puffy so I can “double up” on my belay jackets. Conversely, if it’s really mild out I might just up for carrying a lighter puffy then the two jackets I mention above. For that the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket is a great choice. You can find my recent detailed review of this one here.
I typically only carry one 32 ounce wide mouth water bottle for most ice climbing day trips. I do not use any type of insulated parka to keep it from freezing. I just pack in above my belay jackets and close to the small of my back. In the coldest of temps I have never had it freeze when packed up against my back. If I want something with more flavor then water I reach for some of my Skratch Labs stash. If it’s a really cold mission, or a really long day, I also pack an insulated water bottle with some Borvo Broth. This stuff really tastes amazing and is an excellent mid-day energy refresher!
This case is perfect for packing and protecting my ice screws. I’ve used Petzl and Black Diamond screws for over two decades of ice climbing with few complaints. This season I have swapped out almost my entire rack for a set of the new Blue Ice Aero Ice Screws. I’ll have a review out on these as soon as Mother Nature brings the ice back into condition. For sizes my typical set up is one 22cm, eight 13cm, and one 10cm. If heading to the bigger ice at Willoughby I will add four 17 to 19cm screws. I carry a Grivel Candela V-Thread Tool which conveniently nestles inside my 22cm ice screw. In the zippered pocket in the ice screw case I have some zip ties and the allen wrench for my CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools.
Author on Black Pudding Gully, WI4 – photo by Brent Doscher
Next I stuff my warmer Black Diamond Guide Gloves in. It has to be heinous out there for me to end up switching into these beasts but I won’t risk not being able to keep my hands warm in the winter so these get packed even though I rarely wear them. I do most of my ice leading wearing CAMP USA Geko Ice Pro Gloves and Rab Power Stretch Pro Glove Liners.
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon
In the top pocket of my pack I stick my Petzl IKO Core Headlamp along with some hand warmers, my snacks and food for the day. And since I know you are wondering what my favorite on mountain food choice is I’ll share that hands down the best food to take ice climbing is left over pizza from Flatbread NoCo!
For a rope I prefer the Sterling Rope Fushion Nano IX 9mm by 60m rope. It’s a triple rated rope (single, twin, half) so it is ideal for guiding two clients on multi-pitch ice. I have two of them in the bi-pattern.
While I already mentioned it above my ice tools of choice are the CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools. You can find my original in depth review of these tools here.
Finally on the outside of my shoulder strap I clip my Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio. If you’ve been following me for awhile you know I’m a huge fan of these radios. They make climbing & skiing so much better than it was before. Did you know you can get ten percent off of them with code “AlpineStart10”?
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Well that pretty much sums up what I pack for a day of ice climbing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I can go into my clothing system in another post if there is interest. Did I miss anything? What do you bring that I don’t? Got any questions about anything in my kit? Please comment below if you do have a question or if you found this post helpful in anyway. Temperatures are finally getting colder so I’m hoping to get out later this week and actually use this gear for what it is intended for!
With the welcomed increase of backcountry travelers using FRS and GMRS radios for internal group communication it is time we utilize a “Common Use Zone” system to improve group to group communication in the most popular zones of our region.
Modeled after the Utah Avalanche Center’s “Group to Group Radio Channel Initiative” this system would be for these intended uses:
Intended Uses & Radio Protocols:
A way for riders to communicate with people within their party and more importantly communicate with potential groups below and above you and your group.
To send a distress call to your group and other parties to aid in self rescue and to alert of potential threatening avalanche hazards.
To ask for someone to call 911 to mount an organized rescue, when 911 can’t be reached directly on your own.
Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area
Radio Communication between you and your group:
Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area
General communication
Radio Communication between multiple groups:
Route selection and timing to avoid riding directly above other groups
Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
Radio communication when your group is clear of a given line or area, alerting other groups of a clear run-out zone
General communication
Here are some examples of the types of communication you might share or hear on these common use zone channels:
“This is Sarah on channel 21 reaching the ridge via the south snowfields. With no signs of instability and inconclusive hand shears our party of three is heading over to the top of Main Gully”
“This is Mark on channel 20, we just pulled out a small wind slab on our approach into Left Gully. Due to poor visibility we are transitioning here and dropping the bottom third of Left in a few minutes.”
“Mayday, mayday, mayday. This is Lisa on channel 19, we have a medical emergency near the base of Yale Gully. We are unable to raise 911. Does any one copy?”
The use of these radios does not take the place of solid decision making and carrying a Personal Locator Beacon like the Garmin inReach Mini 2 that can initiate a rescue if outside of both cell phone service and the limited range of FRS/GMRS radios.
It’s important to understand that most FRS radios are single channel monitoring. Some GMRS radios can monitor two channels simultaneously but may require a license.
The Common Use Zone Channel List*
Tuckerman Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 22
Gulf of Slides
FRS/GMRS Channel 21
East Snowfields & Raymond Cataract
FRS/GMRS Channel 20
Huntington Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 19
Great Gulf
FRS/GMRS Channel 18
Burt Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 17
Ammonoosuc Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 16
Oakes Gulf/Dry River
FRS/GMRS Channel 15
Crawford Notch
FRS/GMRS Channel 14
Franconia Notch
FRS/GMRS Channel 13
Evans Notch
FRS/GMRS Channel 12
GBA Glades
FRS/GMRS Channel 11
*No CT or Privacy Codes (0)
In order to send and receive traffic on these channels from other groups you must ensure your radio is not using a CT/DTS privacy code. Check your radio’s user manual on how to turn these privacy codes off (or set to zero).
Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio My pick for professional mountain guides, avalanche course instructors, search & rescue teams 10% off with “ALPINESTART10”
*Due to using over 2 watts of power of the Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio requires licensing with the FCC. The process is quite simple online, took me about 30 minutes to complete, and cost $35. Detailed instructions how how to obtain a license can be found here. The above links are affiliate links which means if you purchase a radio through these links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.
I’m hoping this suggestion becomes widely adapted by our backcountry community. Since a growing percentage of backcountry travelers are already carrying radios it makes good sense that we improve the overall communities safety by adapting a common use zone list like this.
ZONE MAP STICKERS! $2 each!
3 x 3 inch stickers of the zone map pictured above are available! Put one in your field book and on your skis or board! $2ea., free pickup in Conway, NH, or $1 S&H. Venmo preferred. Please include local pickup or shipping address with payment.
Yesterday I posed the question, “What are the conditions that promote the growth of Surface Hoar”. There were many correct answers. Let’s dive a little deeper into the conditions and take it beyond the level 1 understanding.
In my AIARE 1 avalanche courses I teach students to remember the three “C’s” that promote the growth of surface hoar.
Cold- Unsurprisingly it needs to be below freezing (32°F, 0ºC) for surface hoar to form.
Clear- The mechanisms that drive the growth of surface hoar require rapid radiative heat loss from the snowpack. This only occurs on clear nights. Cloud cover has an insulating effect on the earth and pretty much prevents the type of heat loss needed for this process to occur.
Calm- Surface hoar crystals, once formed, are vulnerable to moderate wind speeds. The ice forms have very little horizontal strength, and if you find a pocket of decent sized surface hoar you can test this easily by getting close to the crystals and giving them a hearty blow of air from your own lungs.
That is pretty much the level 1 type knowledge I instill in my students. Now let’s dive deeper into other important considerations that contribute to the snowpack’s ability to form surface hoar.
Humidity & Dewpoint– Basically surface hoar is winter’s equivalent of “dew”. There must be a high level of humidity (over 70%) in the air right at ground level.
Air movement– Since the crystal growth of surface hoar is removing vapor (moisture) from the air as it grows that moisture must be replaced for the crystals to keep growing. The air movement required is so light that an observer would record “calm” for wind speed.
Temperature Inversion/Gradient– A strong inverted temperature gradient is needed right at the snow surface. This gradient is best achieved by the rapid radiative heat loss scenario promoted by cold clear nights. Even a light breeze will remove this ground level inversion and inhibit growth.
Now that we’ve gotten the sciencey weather stuff out of the way let’s get into some practical terrain considerations for the topic.
Sheltered/Lee– Since we know any noticeable wind inhibits surface hoar growth we can expect to find it in areas protected from the wind, i.e. lee.
Canopy– Because surface hoar requires rapid radiative heat loss any tree canopy will inhibit growth. Surface hoar is often found in clearings that are not obstructed by any tree cover.
Aspect– It is reasonable to assume northern aspects may be more likely to grow surface hoar as they are colder aspects. In areas with predominant west winds (White Mountains) you may have more luck finding surface hoar on your North to East aspects.
Elevation– Since above treeline conditions rarely promote the growth of surface hoar this weak layer is more common below treeline, and in the right conditions middle elevations.
Slope Angle– Surface hoar has what is called “anisotropic” structure. What this basically means is it is strong on the vertical axis and very weak on the horizontal axis. This property is the main reason it is such a reactive weak layer when buried by new snow. Its ability to withstand gradual increases in load until it reaches its breaking point is why in certain snow climates it’s the primary issue for human triggered avalanches. It is also why you would not expect this in steeper start zones. In the rare case of this forming on a 40 degree start zone of an alpine gully any cohesive snow that falls on top of it will quickly overwhelm its horizontal strength. Field observations show this is a common layer for remotely triggering avalanches on flat terrain. Twenty five degree rollovers are also commonly triggered on surface hoar.
Slope Shape– Research shows that concave slopes inhibit growth. This is due to the reduced radiative heat loss on concave slopes. Conversely, convex slopes may see more progressive growth as they can accelerate rapid radiative heat loss and a stronger surface left temperature gradient. Yet another reason convexities on a slope are common trigger points.
Proximity to Water– Because the ground level humidity needs replenishment you can often find this growing next to creeks, streams, and steam “vents”. These “vents” are pretty cool, even on a negative temperature day if you stick your thermometer in one of them you’ll find the air temp hovering around freezing (32°F, 0ºC).
Snow Climate– The prior mentioned weather conditions are most common in Continental (Rocky Mountain) snow climates. Surface hoar can, and does, form in any snow climate, but it’s most prevalent in Continental snow climates.
Local Examples– I have found a few places in Mount Washington Valley that I consider “surface hoar farms”.
The most reliable spot I have found is just south of the trestle cut at the top of Crawford Notch where some sheltered steam vents on the west side of the tracks often have surface hoar crystals around them. Unfortunately the railroad is active this winter and no trespassing signs are posted so I don’t recommend heading there.
The field just outside the AMC Highland Center has had some brilliant surface hoar displays over the years through they are usually short lived as calm clear weather doesn’t last long at the top of the notch.
The base of the Cog Railway has small slopes that have produced some of the largest surface hoar crystals I have ever seen in person, some up to 4 centimeters in size!
I’ll often find small pockets on the sides of the Tuckerman Ravine Trail but the spot on the east side of Mount Washington I’ve had the most luck is on the Summer Lion Head trail, right as the trail steepens and crosses an old avalanche path there are a couple small steam vents on the left side that have a clear view of the sky (thanks to old avalanche activity).
Summary– Well that’s about it for my brain dump on surface hoar. Hope you’ve learned something new about what is likely my favorite type of ice formation. For more reading you can check out The Avalanche Handbook. It’s where most of my information is derived and a great resource for those who really want to dive into the minutiae of avalanche formation.
Learn more about this innovative snow safety tool here and enter to win one for free by clicking this link! Contest ends on at 8PM EST on 12/24/2023!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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I’ve been testing the new Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody since early October and after a half dozen trips into the alpine with it I’m ready to share my thoughts.
TLDR Version: This is an outstanding addition to the “light puffy” market and I’m stoked to have this in my current rotation of outdoor clothes.
How I Tested: Two ice climbing trips to Mount Willard, an ice climbing trip into Tuckerman Ravine, two Mount Washington attempts (one successful summit, one bail at Lion Head due to very poor visibility and extreme winds higher)
Before I get into my personal opinions on this jacket let’s look at the manufacturer description and specifications:
Manufacturer Description:
The perfect layer for backcountry rock walls, big alpine faces, and frigid weekend ski tours, the Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody is the ultimate in dynamic four-season insulation that breathes efficiently and stretches with your every movement. The jacket packed with migration-resistant Primaloft Gold Active, maintaining breathability during even the most intense high-output pursuits. The 20D nylon ripstop face fabric and stretch liner resists weather and encourages full range of motion, while remaining incredibly durable through rugged talus, brushy approaches and daily use. Additional features include an adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood, a low-profile, single-adjust hem and a highly packable design that stuffs into the internal stretch mesh pocket and clips onto your harness, all your needs are covered. Fit and overall design has been entirely overhauled for 2023.
PRODUCT FEATURES
Migration-resistant PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation
20D nylon ripstop face fabric with PFC-free DWR Technology
Lightweight, stretch lining for added breathability
Mapped insulation throughout body, shoulders, and arms
Adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood with drawcord adjustment
Underarm gussets for added range of motion
Low-profile, single-adjust hem
Stows in internal left hand pocket with carabiner clip loop
Two concealed-zip hand pockets
Primary fabric is Bluesign approved
ECO Label Status
Fit: Regular
Claimed Weight: 14.29 ounces
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon
Personal Opinions:
The “light puffy” has become a staple in my winter outdoor clothing scheme. My biggest requirements in a quality piece are; high warmth to weight ratio, high breathability, high packability, decent water resistance, wind proof, well fitting. The Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody checks all the boxes!
High Warmth to Weight Ratio: Black Diamond uses mapped PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation. Primaloft® Gold is one of the best synthetic insulators available with a CLO value of 0.92, which is roughly equivalent to the warmth of 500 or 550 fill-power down and achieves 98% thermal efficiency (and still retains heat if it gets wet, unlike down). The nylon shell fabric is lightweight and soft to the touch, allowing for the whole jacket to weight less than a pound. For a synthetic insulated hooded jacket this is quite impressive, so I give this a 5/5 in the warmth to weight ration category!
High Breathability: The biggest test of the breathability of this jacket came yesterday as I was breaking trail in thigh deep new snow from tree line to the summit cone on Mount Washington. Temps were 6 degrees Fahrenheit (-14 Celcius), winds were around 40 mph (64 Kph), and the wind chill was about -23 Fahrenheit (-30 Celcius). The uphill battle was slow going and a bit exhausting. I needed more than my base layers and soft shell jacket to stay comfortable but I was working pretty hard. I pulled this on over my soft shell and kept working uphill thinking I’d likely start to overheat soon and need to take it off. That didn’t happen and I reached the summit with it still on. So it is definitely breathable. I didn’t take it off until I was back to tree line and out of the wind for the quick walk back to the trailhead.
High Packability: While similar down jackets can pack smaller I prefer the extra insurance of synthetic for my light puffy jackets and only have one big down parka these days that is always in my pack for the most arctic of trips. Despite being a synthetic hooded jacket I am impressed with the Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody ability to get small. Without much coaching it will pack into it’s own zipper right side hand pocket at takes up just a little more space then your standard wide mouth Nalgene water bottle.
Decent Water Resistance: Black Diamond uses pretty standard PFC-free DWR Technology to give this jacket some water resistance. I was only exposed to a little dripping water on a warmish ascent of Hitchcock Gully earlier this year and as expected any drops that hit me just rolled off the fabric. Since it is a synthetic and not down I’m less concerned about how water resistant a light synthetic puffy is as I will still pack a hardshell if there is a significant chance of liquid precipitation on my trip.
Wind Proof: 100% this jacket is indeed windproof as I tested it in those 40+mph conditions I mentioned above. All I can really add here is I am impressed with how windproof the jacket seems while being so breathable at the same time. Must be the 20 denier fabric that Black Diamond used for the shell fabric, it just strikes the right balance in this regard.
Well Fitting: Ok I kind of saved the best for last here. I love the way this jacket fits and movies. Black Diamond says it’s a “regular” fit and while that means it isn’t supposed to fit like your tapered skinny jeans I don’t find the fit to be too bulky at all either. For my 5’9″ 185 pound frame the large fits over my skin layers and soft shell jacket perfectly. The length is perfect for tucking in under my climbing harness, and the stretchy panels under the arms keep in tucked in while I’m ice climbing and raising my hands far above my head often. The insulated hood is comfortable and well fitting with or without a climbing helmet on thanks to the drawcord adjustment. The fit is somehow technical while casual as I’ve found myself grabbing this jacket for everyday where and not just saving it for mountain missions.
Summary: The synthetic light weight hooded jacket is one of my favorite categories of gear to test. You can find many of my reviews of this style of jacket over the years on my review page. If your “light puffy” is ready for replacement or upgrade, or you have yet to add the “light puffy” to your outdoor wardrobe, I highly suggest you check the Black Diamond First Light Hooded Jacket out!
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