Optimized Figure Eight Knot: Essential Steps for Tying

The first knot most climbers learn is the “Retraced Figure Eight” knot. While a minority of climbers choose to connect the rope to their harness with a double bowline knot most of the climbing guides and instructors I have met greatly prefer to the more easily recognizable Figure Eight. Since there are a few ways to create a retraced Figure of Eight there is only one way that is becoming more known as “ideal”. When all these points are met I refer to this as the “Optimized” Figure Eight Knot.

  • Only the amount of rope needed to create the knot is used
  • The loop that has captured the harness tie-in point is no larger then the belay loop
  • All the strands are parallel with no cross overs
  • After all four strands exiting the knot are “dressed & stressed” there is only 6 inches of tail
  • The load strand entering the knot ends up on the “inside” of the knot
  • Your partner checks your knot before you start climbing

In this video I demonstrate the methods I use to tie this correctly each time.

There is a really in-depth look at this by “Hard is Easy” on YouTube here, though I use a mirror image of his method to achieve the same result. There are also some great pictures showing some of the nuances over at Alpine Savvy.

Do you tie your eight like this? Any questions or comments? Please let me know below!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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    Tech Tip: Extending From Your Anchor For Better Communicaton

    Rock Climbing Tech Tips
    “The Fairy Tale Traverse”, Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle, Huntington Ravine, Mount Washington. Photo by Peter Brandon

    Oftentimes we have anchors that are set back from the cliff edge. If we belay at these anchors communication can be hampered. In this video I demonstrate some of the methods you can use to extend yourself back to a position to improve communication (and provide better photo opportunities!).

    A question from a follower last week asked “Can I just estimate the length, clove in, and leave my belay device up at the anchor?”. While that could work, it is generally a better practice to keep your belay device within arms reach. In the event you need to lower your partner, or build a 3:1 haul system to help them, it is more easily handled when the belay device is still within reach.

    Another great way to improve communication is to climb with a pair of Rocky Talkies! These radios are incredibly rugged, lightweight, and are so much better to use than straining your vocal cords yelling “off belay” from 50 meters away. You can use promo code “AlpineStart10” at this link to get 10% off your own set of Rocky Talkies! A portion of every sale also sends money to Search & Rescue teams so I am quite proud to support this company!

    If you found this video useful please take the time to like and subscribe so that I can keep putting effort into creating instruction videos like this one! Also you have any questions or comments please let me know below!

    Gear Used In This Video:

    Mammut Crag Dry Duodess Rope, 9.5mm

    Wild Country Mosquito Pro Harness

    Edelrid HMPE Cord Sling

    CAMP USA Nimbus Locking Carabiner

    Petzl Grigri 2 Belay Device

    Clothing Worn In This Video:

    RAB VR Summit Jacket

    Salewa Puez Knit PTX Hiking Shoes

    See you in the mountains!

    Affiliate links above support the content created on this blog. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

    My Ice Climbing Kit

    While the New England ice climbing season is off to a bit of a sluggish start a follower recently asked if I had a gear list for what I take ice climbing. Thanks for the inspiration for this post Kyle! I’m going to list items in the order that I usually pack my pack.

    Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack

    Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack Review

    I’ve tested over a dozen packs specifically designed for waterfall ice climbing and this pack has held onto my #1 spot for best ice climbing pack. You can find my full review of this pack here.

    Patagonia DAS Parka

    If there is any chance of mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the reliability of a synthetic insulated belay parka, and the Patagonia DAS Parka is an industry leading choice.

    Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket

    If there is zero chance of encountering mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the warmth and packability of a down insulated belay parka, and for that the Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket is an excellent choice.

    Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket

    Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hooded Jacket Review

    If it is wicked cold out I’ve been known to pack a second light puffy so I can “double up” on my belay jackets. Conversely, if it’s really mild out I might just up for carrying a lighter puffy then the two jackets I mention above. For that the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket is a great choice. You can find my recent detailed review of this one here.

    32oz Wide Mouth Nalgene Water Bottle

    I typically only carry one 32 ounce wide mouth water bottle for most ice climbing day trips. I do not use any type of insulated parka to keep it from freezing. I just pack in above my belay jackets and close to the small of my back. In the coldest of temps I have never had it freeze when packed up against my back. If I want something with more flavor then water I reach for some of my Skratch Labs stash. If it’s a really cold mission, or a really long day, I also pack an insulated water bottle with some Borvo Broth. This stuff really tastes amazing and is an excellent mid-day energy refresher!

    AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit

    I use the AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit as my base first aid kit then I add a few things to it that just live inside the kit. Like the Petzl e+lite headlamp, a small knife, and a small Bic lighter. I also slide a SAM splint down into the back sleeve of my backpack along with a CAT tourniquet.

    Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Ice Screw Case

    Hyperlight Mountain Gear Prism Ice Pack Review

    This case is perfect for packing and protecting my ice screws. I’ve used Petzl and Black Diamond screws for over two decades of ice climbing with few complaints. This season I have swapped out almost my entire rack for a set of the new Blue Ice Aero Ice Screws. I’ll have a review out on these as soon as Mother Nature brings the ice back into condition. For sizes my typical set up is one 22cm, eight 13cm, and one 10cm. If heading to the bigger ice at Willoughby I will add four 17 to 19cm screws. I carry a Grivel Candela V-Thread Tool which conveniently nestles inside my 22cm ice screw. In the zippered pocket in the ice screw case I have some zip ties and the allen wrench for my CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools.

    Author on Black Pudding Gully, WI4 – photo by Brent Doscher

    For clipping ice screws on lead I highly prefer the Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraws. Notchless wire gate carabiners are the best, and the larger rope side carabiner on these draws is glove friendly. It’s also a better carabiner if you ever climb on a two rope system. I carry 8 of these racked on a Petzl William Screw Locking Carabiner. On this carabiner I also have a “locker draw” that I build from a Petzl Express Quickdraw Sling and two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners. There is also one “alpine draw” built with a 60cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling and two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners clipped to this large locking carabiner, a 180cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling with two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners, and a pre-tied “mini-quad“.

    The rest of my climbing hardware is all clipper to a large locking carabiner and includes two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners, my DMM Pivot Belay Device, a 16 foot length of Sterling Power Cord, a traditional 6mm cord tied into a small prussic, a 40cm Edelrid Aramid Cord, and a small carabiner knife.

    Inside my Hyperlite Prism Crampon Bag are my Petzl Dart Crampons and I often stuff a pair of Kahtoola MICROspikes in there as well.

    Next I stuff my warmer Black Diamond Guide Gloves in. It has to be heinous out there for me to end up switching into these beasts but I won’t risk not being able to keep my hands warm in the winter so these get packed even though I rarely wear them. I do most of my ice leading wearing CAMP USA Geko Ice Pro Gloves and Rab Power Stretch Pro Glove Liners.

    Inside my Petzl Sirocco Helmet (review) or Salewa Piuma 3.0 Helmet (I love both these helmets) I pack my preferred ice climbing harness which is the Petzl Sitta (my review) outfitted with three Petzl Caritools.

    Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review
    November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon

    In the top pocket of my pack I stick my Petzl IKO Core Headlamp along with some hand warmers, my snacks and food for the day. And since I know you are wondering what my favorite on mountain food choice is I’ll share that hands down the best food to take ice climbing is left over pizza from Flatbread NoCo!

    For a rope I prefer the Sterling Rope Fushion Nano IX 9mm by 60m rope. It’s a triple rated rope (single, twin, half) so it is ideal for guiding two clients on multi-pitch ice. I have two of them in the bi-pattern.

    While I already mentioned it above my ice tools of choice are the CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools. You can find my original in depth review of these tools here.

    Finally on the outside of my shoulder strap I clip my Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio. If you’ve been following me for awhile you know I’m a huge fan of these radios. They make climbing & skiing so much better than it was before. Did you know you can get ten percent off of them with code “AlpineStart10”?

    Links above are affiliate links. That means if you make a purchase from an online retailer after visiting those links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. These commissions keep this blog afloat. Thank you.

    Well that pretty much sums up what I pack for a day of ice climbing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I can go into my clothing system in another post if there is interest. Did I miss anything? What do you bring that I don’t? Got any questions about anything in my kit? Please comment below if you do have a question or if you found this post helpful in anyway. Temperatures are finally getting colder so I’m hoping to get out later this week and actually use this gear for what it is intended for!

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start

    Tech Tip: Protection From Ticks

    Protecting From Tick Borne Illness
    Image from CDC.gov

    In New Hampshire it is prudent to protect yourself from tick borne illness from April through November when recreating outdoors. There are five possible tick borne diseases that have been reported in the state:

    Lyme disease <- most common reported tick borne illness and can have lasting effects even after treatment.

    Anaplasmosis <- pretty sure I had this from a tick bite I got in southern MA a few years ago. Fever & chills but luckily a pretty mild disease that will often resolve on it’s own. My sickness only lasted 48 hours.

    Babesiosis <- Babesiosis is a disease you get from the bite of a tick infected with the parasite Babesia. It causes flu-like symptoms and can lead to severe illness.

    Powassan <- While rare reported cases are on the rise of this potentially fatal disease.

    Borrelia miyamotoi <- Very similar to Lyme disease.

    Step 1: Treat Your Clothing & Shoes

    The single most effective defense against ticks is to purchase pretreated clothes or treat your clothing at home with Permethrin. This pesticide is intended to treat clothing and gear (hiking shoes) and is not for direct skin application. The directions indicate to spray your clothing while you are not wearing it and let it dry completely. Once the pesticide dries there is no toxic risk to humans and it doesn’t get absorbed into your skin even if you are sweating. The protection lasts for weeks and even after washing the clothes. I treat two pairs of pants and two sun hoodies, like this Florence Marine Sun Pro Stratus, at the beginning of bug season and the protection pretty much lasts through the hiking season. I also treat two pairs of hiking shoes. The effectiveness of this product is remarkable. When I am dressed in my treated clothes and wearing my treated shoes I can wade through a tick infested tall field of grass and come out tick free on the other side. If a tick is brave enough to try to crawl up my shoes and pants it will just die and fall off. Another bonus to this tactic is this pesticide is also effective at repelling black flies, gnats, and mosquitos, so when I where these treated clothes I can often skip applying any type of topical bug repellent which feels like an overall healthier choice. While the research shows there are no long term negative health effects it should be mentioned that before this pesticide dries it is very dangerous to cats. Neurologically something bad can happen if cats get exposed to this before it dries, so cat people be sure to treat your clothes far away from any felines!

    Step 2: Carry a Topical Repellent

    While I find Permethrin gives me the protection I need 95% of the time I still carry a small bottle of repellent for when the mosquitoes are fierce (often dusk or dawn). In my experience natural herbal repellents only last for mere minutes after application and require constant reapplication to have any effectiveness. That leaves me with only two other options that are effective, and I strongly prefer one over the other.

    DEET– While I used this for years and can attest to its effectiveness I never liked applying this to my skin. The 100% formulas are so strong (and toxic) that they would keep working even after bathing. The chemical can literally melt through plastic and nylon making it a poor choice for backpackers, hikers, and climbers who often have gear made from these materials. If it’s all you have and you need protection I would use sparingly and according to directions. Luckily a relatively new option has come to market that I am a huge fan off…

    Picardin– This repellent has been approved by the EPA since 2005 but I still find many outdoor enthusiasts have not learned about it’s effectiveness when compared to DEET. In my experience it is just as effective as DEET but with out all the concern around synthetic materials. It doesn’t melt through plastic and it doesn’t feel like it’s still on my skin after bathing. I carry a small bottle of it in my pack for times when either I’m not wearing my treated clothing or the mosquitos are just in full on feeding mode.

    Step 3: Head Net

    For less than two ounces and a few bucks I have a Sea to Summit Head Net stuffed away in my backpack for one more physical barrier between me and the biting things. This head net is pretreated with Permethrin. You can find all the clothes REI has that are pretreated with Permethrin at this link. You can find all the clothes at BACKCOUNTRY that are pretreated with Permethrin at this link.

    Step 4: Tick Checks

    Finally, the last thing you can do to protect yourself from tick borne illness is a quality “tick check” when you get back home from your adventure. The good news is it takes time for ticks to transmit disease after biting you. The CDC actually states it takes 36 to 48 hours for an attached tick to transmit Lyme. Some of the other diseases can transmit faster though so best practice is to do a tick check every night before bed if you’ve been out playing in the mountains. Ticks will often prefer attaching in hidden crevices and areas with hair. This means your tick check will be quite personal. A small mirror can help you check places you can’t easily see. If you find an attached tick don’t panic, they are usually not to hard to remove but you want to take care that you keep the tick whole. Pinch with fingernails or small tweezers at the very base of the tick and apply steady pulling pressure until it comes out. Wash the bite area with soap and water. If concerned that the tick was attached for more than 36 hours you could send it in to testing using this form.

    Protecting From Tick Borne Illness
    Image from CDC.gov

    Summary

    Unfortunately ticks and associates tick borne disease are on the rise. Hopefully some of the tips and suggestions I’ve shared above can help you create your own line of defense against these nasty little parasites.

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start

    Buy Insect Clothing from REI

    Buy Permethrin from REI

    Buy Insect Shield Clothing from Backcountry

    Buy Permethrin on Amazon

    Buy Picaridin on Amazon

    Buy Insect Shield Clothing on Amazon

    Affiliate links above support the content created on this blog. Thank you.

    Gear Review- AKU Rock DFS Approach Shoes

    It’s no secret I have a thing for approach shoes. I’m lucky that I get to demo so many models each year. Occasionally a pair really stick out to me as a well designed high performing standout. The Italian made AKU Rock DFS Approach Shoes are this season’s stand out and I’m excited to finally share my experiences and thoughts on this shoe and brand!

    Let’s start with how I tested:

    Test period: Early May – Late August

    Use: Day hiking in the White Mountains, approx. 50 miles and 16,000 feet of elevation gain/loss. Summited Mount Washington, Cardigan, Jackson, and Mount Chocorua wearing these.

    AKU Rock DFS Approach Shoes Review

    Manufacturer Description:

    The DFS Rock collection uses a ground breaking Dual Fit System (“DFS”) to give you both maximum comfort during your approach and high performance fit while climbing and scrambling. The Rock DFS has two separate lace zones that utilize lightweight webbing that wraps around and under your foot which enables you to customize your shoe for the fit you want. The Rock DFS midsole incorporates a lightweight EVA foam for cushioning and a polyurethane heel for durability and support. The midsole is then wrapped with sticky climbing rubber to protect your shoe and to provide extra grip. Together with a Vibram Approcciosa sole with Megagrip, the resulting Rock DFS offers a high-performance approach shoe for all day comfort.

    DUAL FIT SYSTEM
    AKU’s DFS collection of approach shoes allows for optimum enjoyment and maximum confidence over the most demanding terrain. Whether you’re on flat trails or going vertical, AKU DFS shoes will take you there in comfort.

    VIBRAM APPROACH
    The VIBRAM Approach sole is designed to make quick work of trails while giving also giving you the confidence to edge and smear on your climb.

    AKU ELICA TECHNOLOGY
    ELICA Technology ensures an anatomical fit to provide better stability and weight distribution across your boot sole to reduce pressure points and encourage better hiking form.

    • Upper: 1.6mm Suede Leather, Air 8000 & Microfiber
    • Lasting board (stiffness): Soft Flex
    • Footbed: Ortholite Hybrid
    • Midsole: Dual Density EVA & PU
    • Outsole: VIBRAM® Approach
    • Upper protection: Rubber Rand
    • Weight Per Shoe: 380 Grams

    AKU Rock DFS Approach Shoes Review

    Opinions:

    It is hard for me to pick the attribute I liked the most out of these shoes so I’ll randomly start with…

    Comfort

    Out of the box these fit my feet perfectly. AKU suggests to order a half size smaller than your “normal AKU boot size” for a “performance fit”. I’ve never worn an AKU boot before so this suggestion wouldn’t help me. I went with my normal US 8.5, EUR 42 that works well for me for LaSportiva boots and shoes and the fit was perfect. The toe box had plently of room while still maintaining a slim profile, and the heel cup was shaped perfect for my feet with zero slippage while ascending granite slabs. The footbed and midsoles offer great cushioning over our rocky and root ridden trails. The soft flex lasting board also kept my feet from feeling sore after many above tree line miles.

    Advanced Lacing

    The two separate “lace zones” definitely helps these shoes standout in the category. There is a typical toe to top of ankle style lacing system then a shorter quick lace system on top of the lower part of the foot. The idea is you can have them laced comfortably for a long approach and then crank the quick pull system tight for more technical scrambling. While it might sound gimmicky at first in reality this system works great! I wore them comfortably laced up the famous Huntington Ravine Trail (often referred to as the most dangerous hiking trail in the White Mountains) then tightened the secondary lacing system for the 1000 foot semi-technical scramble out of the ravine. The snug more precise fit was comforting both on these section and while technical rock climbing YDS 5.5 face climbing across the road at Square Ledge.

    Traction/Grip

    AKU Rock DFS Approach Shoes Review

    AKU uses a Vibram Approcciosa sole with Megagrip and with a “soft flex” lasting board I found the traction of these to be excellent. I tested them on wet rock slabs and steep muddy trails around Ripley Falls. The performance in this category is excellent.

    Durability

    The thickness of the outsole combined with the full circumference rubber toe rand gives me confidence in the overall durability of these. It is sometimes difficult to talk about durability after just a few months of use but close inspection of these inspires confidence in all levels of construction. They truly look and feel “Italian” made and I would predict these easily lasting over 1k miles.

    Company Values/History

    Liking a product a company makes is already a bonus for me, but when that company is authentic and socially responsible that’s icing on my cake! If you’d like to learn a little more about AKU’s history and philosophies check out this five minute YouTube video:

    Summary

    This is the first AKU shoe I have ever demo’d and I’m highly impressed with the brand after this experience. I’ll definitely be trying one of their mountaineering boots, hopefully this winter. If you are shopping for a new pair of approach shoes or a great below the ankle day hiker this is an Italian made model that performs as advertised and doesn’t break the bank. I plan on summiting many more of New Hampshire’s 4000 footers in these (between finding time to test other brands/models). I highly recommend trying a pair of these.

    Purchase: You can purchase these directly from AKU. The men’s models come in both the regular version and a Goretex model, as well as a Mid version for those who desire more ankle support. The women’s model is currently only available in the Goretex version.

    The author purchased these for purpose of review. Affiliate links above help support the content created on Northeast Alpine Start. Thank you.

    Gear Review- Osprey Poco Kid Carrier

    This is a different kind of “review” than I normally post as both my kids have now outgrown our beloved Osprey Poco Premium Kid Carrier that we used for over 7 years and close to 250 trail miles in the White Mountains. In fact this item was probably the most important item I owned when I first started blogging with my “Adventure With Alex” blog… a father/son hiking journal… If you scroll through some of those older posts of the now suspended blog you’ll see this iconic backpack all over the place, including probably our most memorable which was Alex’s first 4000 footer, Mount Washington!

    Plus

    While our days using this pack have ended seeing Osprey continue to improve the design and create what I felt was the best kid carrier on the market 10 years ago, including a new “LT” model that is about 3 pounds lighter than our older “Premium” model, has inspired me to share this with other newer adventurous parents who might follow me!

    If you’re looking for the best kid carrier backpack available consider one of these three models…

    Osprey Poco

    Osprey Poco LT <- lightest and most affordable

    Osprey Poco Plus <- deluxe with removable kid sized day pack and most storage

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start

    How to Prepare for a Winter Hike in the White Mountains

    Winter Hiking Tips White Mountains

    A quick look at hiking forums online confirms what I am expecting… unprecedented new winter hikers will be visiting the White Mountains this winter. In order to help these newcomers more safely enter the sport of winter hiking I’ve compiled a list of resources and advice below.

    Weather

    Likely the single most over-looked piece of information prior for a first winter hike is obtaining an accurate regionally specific weather forecast. If you are planning a winter hike in the White Mountains you should consult the Higher Summits Forecast for a few days before your planned hike and the morning of! Things change fast in the mountains and the forecast is published around 4am which should be in time for you to get an accurate update before you leave the car.

    Gear

    The second most likely mistake to make is not bringing the right equipment. Every one on the hike should at a minimum carry “The Ten Essentials“. I’ll list some of my personal recommendations below and add some opinions/advice.

    Cell Phone– While this one isn’t officially on the list it should be. The mistake is thinking this can replace any of the other 10 essential items. You should not rely on having service or any battery life left. A mapping app does not replace a physical map. The phone’s flashlight does not replace a real headlamp. Cell phones are susceptible to cold weather, so they should be kept warm, inside a chest or thigh pocket. Most importantly, leave the car with a fully charged phone and immediately put the phone on AIRPLANE mode! While on airplane mode you can still take pictures and use the phone’s GPS chip to track your hike if you are using pre-downloaded mapping apps. If you are not on airplane mode your battery we die quickly as your phone searches for a signal in out of service areas.

    Personal Locator Beacon– With cell phone service not guaranteed many experienced hikers are choosing to invest in a personal locator beacon (PLB). While a bit expensive (what insurance isn’t) a PLB works through a satellite network so you can request help, or let worried family know you are just running a little late, from virtually anywhere. The best kind of PLB’s allow for two way communication and custom messaging. It’s much easier for search and rescue to respond when we have a message about what the actual emergency is. One of the most popular models on the market that can do that right now is the Garmin InReach Mini.

    Headlamp– You might think you can finish the hike before dark but everyone in the group should carry their own headlamp. For serious winter hiking I like headlamps that can really throw some light and perform well in the cold, like the Petzl Swift RL Headlamp. A more budget friendly option would be the Petzl Actik Headlamp. I actually stuff a Petzl Zipka Headlamp into my first aid kit as a back-up headlamp for when someone forgets theirs. I also use lithium batteries in all my headlamps for long life and excellent cold weather performance.

    Map– The AMC publishes 6 great maps that cover the entire White Mountain National Forest. You could also learn how to make your own custom maps for free on a website like CalTopo.com, if you have your own quality color printer (or have UPS Store/Staples print them for you). Do not solely rely on your cell phone app to keep you from getting lost. Battery life can quickly drain in cold temps and we do reach temperatures below the operating range of the phone display’s.

    Compass– Figuring out direction is the most basic part of wilderness navigation and there is no better way to do that than to use a compass. A solid basic model is the Suunto A-30L Compass. My personal all-time favorite professional grade compass is the Suunto MC-2 Pro Compass. Don’t know how to use a map & compass together to properly navigate? Take a quality Wilderness Navigation Course and/or get a good book on the topic!

    First Aid Kit– There are lots of commercial first aid kits of various sizes and quality. For the last two decades I’ve started with the Adventure Medical Kit Ultralight and Watertight Series, the .7 size, and supplemented it a little. I’m also happy with a new My Medic Solo First Aid Kit I’ve started carrying. Any first aid kit I grab I usually stuff some extra medications in it, a spare Petzl Zipka Headlamp, a small knife, a fire-starter, and some chemical hand warmers.

    The rest of the list includes; extra clothes, food, water, sun protection, etc.

    Timing

    Many rescues, accidents, and near misses share something in common… late start times. Darkness comes quick in the winter months so an early start increases your overall safety and leave wider margins for unexpected mishaps. Many experienced winter hikers prefer to hit the trail right at dawn. Starting a 4000 footer at 11am is riskier than starting a 4000 footer at 7am.

    Knowing when to turn back

    One of the hardest skills to develop as a new winter hiker is determining when to turn it around and head back towards safety. We want to be challenged and meet success on our hiking trips but we must be careful to always balance the delicate risk vs reward scale. Many books and articles have been written on the topic of lost life in the Presidential Range and greater White Mountain Region. You can learn from these tragedies and remember to stay humble… we are all prone to making mistakes. Some books on the topic worth checking out:

    Not Without Peril

    Where You’ll Find Me <- my short blog post about this event is here

    The Last Traverse <- currently reading to review

    Guided Instruction

    For many the best way to get into winter hiking is to do so with people who are already experienced at winter hiking. The Appalachian Mountain Club has a very long history of helping people learn to recreate in the mountains safely and responsibly. They have tons of courses and guided hikes designed for the aspiring new winter hiker.

    If you’re goal is to travel above treeline in the winter there are a host of well established guide services that offer quality programs and can rent you the specialized equipment you might not want to purchase yet as you’re just dipping your toes into the sport of winter hiking (like plastic mountaineering boots, crampons, mountaineering axe, etc). Better yet their guides will teach you how to properly pack, adjust layers during the day, walk with crampons on, self arrest, with an axe, etc).

    Here’s is a list of some of the most known companies that run trips in the White Mountains;

    Northeast Mountaineering <- disclaimer I work for this company

    EMS Schools

    International Mountain Climbing School

    Ragged Mountain Guides

    Synnott Mountain Guides

    Redline Guiding

    Chauvin Guides

    Acadia Mountain Guides

    REI Adventures

    (if you are a guide service that leads winter hikes in the White Mountains and were not included in the above list please contact me to be added)

    Get Educated

    Other than the knowledge you can gain from the above guided experiences there are two skills every hiker should obtain early on in their hiking career, Wilderness Navigation Skills and Wilderness First Aid Skills. While you can learn some of these skills from sources like YouTube nothing beats hands on training with quality instructors.

    More Info

    Check out the Hike Safe website. It has great information to help you plan your hike including “The Code“. Also please consider purchasing a Hike Safe Card from New Hampshire Fish and Game. This purchase adds crucial funding to a very tight budget for search and rescue in NH and might help you avoid incurring the cost of a rescue should you need one.

    From NHFG website:

    It is important to note that people may still be liable for response expenses, if they are deemed to be reckless or to have intentionally created a situation requiring an emergency response.

    Summary

    Winter hiking is an amazing sport and one I have enjoyed for over thirty years. It can be magical, beautiful, spiritual, exhilarating, and grandiose. It can also go from a fun outing to dangerous and deadly quite quickly. My best advice is to start off slow, read some books or articles on it, seek advice from quality outdoor retailers, join a hiking group, start with smaller hikes and save Mount Washington or the Franconia Ridge for when you’ve got some experience under your belt. Maybe hire a guide or instructor and take a formalized course. Most importantly though… please come home at the end of your hike.

    Winter Hiking Tips White Mountains
    The author enjoying a cold day up on Mount Washington a few winters ago

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start

    Disclaimer: Affiliate links above support the content created on this blog. If you make a purchase through one of them the author receives a small commission at no additional cost to you. The author is also a guide who works for Northeast Mountaineering, which was listed alongside other guide services in the area. You are responsible for your own safety. The use of any information in this post is at your own risk.

    Gear Review: Hoka One One Sky Arkali Hiking Shoe (and GIVEAWAY!)

    Hoka One One Sky Arkali ReviewHoka One One (pronounced Hoka oh-nay oh-nay) released their new multi-use hiking shoe, the Sky Arkali, back in March of 2019. Over the last few months I’ve hiked a few dozen miles in the White Mountains with them and I’m ready to share the results!


    Buy on Backcountry (Men’s and Women’s)

    Buy on REI (Just Men’s)

    Buy on Moosejaw (Just Men’s)


    First here is the manufacturer’s description of the shoe:

    The Arkali continues to challenge what’s possible in a hiking shoe. There’s off-road, offtrail and then there’s off the map. HOKA ONE ONE® has just gone vertical with the Arkali. A combination of running shoe innovation (light and comfortable), climbing shoe technology (exceptional grip and traction) and hiking boot engineering (rugged and protective), the Arkali looks ready for anything. And with a MATRYX® upper, high-abrasion toe cap and adjustable heel and ankle straps, it is. It features a PROFLY™ midsole, which has a softer heel and more responsive toe-off, plus 5mm multidirectional Vibram® Megagrip rubber lugs. The Arkali is waiting to take you to the top of the world.

    FEATURES

    • MATRYX® upper featuring high-tensile synthetic fiber strands across the midfoot for unparalleled strength and durability at minimal weight
    • High-abrasion rubber toe cap extends to the midfoot for increased protection
    • Ankle and heel straps offer structural and proprioceptive support on uneventerrain
    • PROFLY™ midsole for a cushioned landing and propulsive toe-off
    • EVA top midsole for running shoe cushion at an incredibly light weight
    • Rangi™ bottom foam offers durable cushioning and a responsive feel
    • Vibram® Megagrip hi-traction outsole with 5mm lugs
    • Multidirectional lugs for supreme grip
    • 100% Vegan
    • RN 88276

    Hoka One One Sky Arkali Review

    Now let’s get into how they performed!

    Out of the box the first thing I noticed was these are much more of a shoe then the ultra-light approach type shoes I typically review. I had heard a lot about the comfort of Hoka One One shoes and was looking forward to seeing what all the hype was about. The most obvious characteristic of the brand is the noticeable amount of “cushion” these shoes employ. From out-sole to insole I measure a full 1.75 inches of cushion. This is easily double the amount of cushioning in all other brands of hiking and approach shoes I have reviewed and a brand trait that has made Hoka One One quite popular in the running world.

    Despite the bulk of the shoe I was impressed to see that Hoka was able to keep the weight down to just shy of a pound per shoe. I will mention that Hoka does not specify on their website that they are not listing the “per pair” weight, but actually listing “per shoe” weight. That’s a little odd in my opinion as almost all shoe manufacturers list weight “per pair”. Regardless, the shoe is noticeably lighter than many hiking boots on the market especially when considering the amount of comfort and support I will get into in more detail below. But first let’s go over fit and sizing…


    Fit and Sizing

    Hoka One One Sky Arkali Review

    I wear between a US men’s size 8.5 and size 9 depending on the brand and for these I went with the 8.5. I have a medium width foot with a slight Morton’s tow and average arch. These fit my feet quite well with plenty of width if my foot was a little on the wider side. The approach shoe style lacing made it easy to snug them up for a semi-technical descent and I had plenty of wiggle room on the spacious toe box. The lacing and Velcro system easily held my feet in place while descending so I had no issue with “toe bang” while moving fast downhill. To help with sizing Hoka has collected this feedback from purchaser’s:

    Hoka One One Sky Arkali Review


    Comfort

    Hoka One One Sky Arkali Review

    While the fit was great the true test came on a rugged and heavily rooted trail on Mount Chocorua. After each mile I became aware of how well the extra padding in these shoes was keeping the bottom of my feet for getting the least bit tender. When I test thinner approach style shoes I often search for smoother surfaces while hiking to avoid late day foot soreness but these hiking shoes are so protective under foot that I stopped looking for the ideal foot placements and just cruised along.

    Hoka One One Sky Arkali Review

    They are not waterproof, which doesn’t bother me at all as I prefer breath-ability over waterproof for all my non-winter adventuring. That said they did feel a little on the warm side, which was perfect for the crisp Fall hikes I’ve been using them on but they did feel like they might be a little warm for hot weather trips.


    Traction

    Hoka One One Sky Arkali Review

    The Hoka One One Sky Arkali boosts one of the most aggressive soles I’ve tested in this category. 5mm Vibram® Megagrip rubber lugs tore up and down multiple wooded trails and performed well on low angle wet and dry slab. I would not push these into low 5th class terrain like some truly dedicated approach shoes as the amount of space between your foot and the footholds, along with the style of out-sole, do not inspire confidence in technical terrain. For 95% off the White Mountain trail system these have more than enough traction!


    Summary

    My first test run of a Hoka One One shoe went quite well. I can see how adding a bit more cushioning might remove some of the sensitivity of the shoe but it goes a long way at keeping your feet happy after pounding down a dozen miles of rough trail. So who are these for? They are a bit bulky for rock climbers to use as an approach shoe. I think these are a great choice for day hiking, fast hiking, and trail running if your prefer more padding over saving a few ounces. Long distance ultra-light backpackers will find this a solid choice as well. Ultimately anyone who has ever had sore feet after a long hike might benefit from trying the Hoka One One brand, and the Sky Arkali is a great place to start!

    Buy on Backcountry (Men’s and Women’s)

    Buy on REI (Just Men’s)

    Buy on Moosejaw (Just Men’s)


    Friendly Foot Giveaway!

    Hoka One One Sky Arkali Review

    Thanks to my friends at Friendly Foot every footwear review I do this year will include a chance to win a two bottles of the best damn foot deodorizer on the planet! I seriously use this stuff daily and my wife reminds me if I forget (my feet used to stink really bad). There are multiple ways to earn entries so just click the Rafflecopter link below and good luck!

    a Rafflecopter giveaway

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start



    A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above help support the content created here.

    Gear Review- Mammut Saentis Low Hiking Shoes (And Friendly Foot Giveaway!)

    Mammut Saentis Low Review

    A few months ago I received a pair of Mammut Saentis Low Hiking Shoes to review. I’ve since logged over 100 miles of White Mountain mileage in them and am ready to share my thoughts in a review. Let’s start with the manufacture claims then get into how they faired on the trail!


    Manufacturer Description:

    Extremely light and flexible: the Saentis Low Men is a reliable multipurpose shoe for a range of applications. It performs excellently on fast-paced narrow forest trails but will also be an essential favorite lightweight shoe for the mountains. Its Michelin® sole gives it excellent grip and an optimum sure-footed step on uneven terrain. The outer material impresses with an extremely breathable mesh as well as robust properties for pleasant comfort and durability. From ascent to descent – the Saentis Low Men will take every situation in its stride and prove its great versatility.

    Mammut Saentis Hiking Shoes Review

    Features:

    • Last index: mtrTech
    • Flex index: A4
    • Vent Mesh
    • Hybrid Shell: Blend of supple inner and tough outer materials for enhanced comfort and good adaptability.
    • Pre-shaped tongue construction
    • TPU toe cap
    • Cushioning Strobel construction
    • Michelin® rubber compound
    • Weight (UK 8.5) [g]340 <- my home scale put a pair of size UK 8 at 694 grams
    • Cut Basic

    Sizing/Fit

    I went with a men’s US 9, EUR 42, UK 8. This size fit my feet perfectly with more room in the toe box than I am accustomed to since I most often wear more technical approach shoes. The heel cup and forefoot width felt perfect with plenty of stretch to accommodate a wider foot. These might not be ideal for someone with a very narrow foot.

    Mammut Saentis Hiking Shoes Review

    Mammut Saentis Hiking Shoes Review


    Performance

    • Breathability– The feature I most noticed during testing was the extreme breathability of these shoes. I wore them on multiple hot and humid hikes through July and August and my typically hot feet stayed much cooler than some other shoes I’ve tested in this category recently. While the vent mesh is super breathable this is not a water resistant shoe so you should hop over those puddles rather than plow through! If you do get them wet they dry quite quickly!

    • Traction– The Michelin® sole on these performed extremely well on dirt, mud, sand, and typical forest duff. On wet rock traction performance was a bit diminished over some softer approach shoe soles but still better than the types of soles found on most hiking boots.

    • Comfort– As I mentioned earlier these fit my feet quite perfectly. The stretch mesh lining would easily accommodate a wider foot but my medium width feet stayed secure while traversing low angle slopes and the lacing system was very sufficient at keeping my feet from sliding forward during descents. The midsoles have plenty of cushioning for long days on the trail and the excellent breath-ability made wearing them a pleasure on multiple warm/hot hikes!

    • Durability– While I can’t comment too much on durability after just 100 or so miles I can attest that the appear to be holding up quite well. Close inspection of the stitching and junctions of the outer materials reveals these are crafted with the attention to detail Mammut is well known for! I have no doubt these could last for 800-1000 miles!

    Mammut Saentis Hiking Shoes Review


    Summary

    Mammut Saentis Hiking Shoe Review

    These are a great choice for trail running, hiking, and ultra-light backpacking. At $129 MRSP they offer an excellent value in a high quality hiking shoe. If you put a high priority on breath-ability, low weight, and comfort you should take a look at these!

    Buy from Mammut

    Buy on Backcountry

    Buy on Moosejaw

    Buy on Amazon


    Friendly Foot Giveaway!

    Friendly Foot Shoe Deodorizer
    Friendly Foot Shoe Deodorizer

    Thanks to my friends at Friendly Foot I’ll be giving away two bottles of the best foot deodorizer ever made! I’m not kidding my wife notices right away if I haven’t been using my Friendly Foot powder! See for yourself how you and your loved ones need not suffer smelly feet by entering to win a bottle of the powder and the spray at the RaffleCopter link below!

    Rafflecopter Giveaway!

    Comment below!

    What’s your favorite hiking trail or trail run? Let me know in the comments below for an extra entry into the giveaway!

    See you in the mountains!

    Northeast Alpine Start

    A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links support the content created at Northeast Alpine Start. 

    Personal Gear List

    I often get asked what gear I personally use so I’m creating a more permanent post that I will update when ever I upgrade something in my kit.

    The Essentials

    Hydration: My standard day trip hydration strategy starts with a 32 ounce wide mouth Nalgene bottle. I will occasionally supplement with some Nuun Electrolytes + Caffeine tablets and often add a 25 ounce Thermos filled with hot tea or an espresso style drink.

    Nutrition: Left over pizza from Flatbread Company is hands down my favorite food to carry in the mountains but can strain the food dollars a bit. GrandyOats is the best granola I’ve ever tried and is almost always in my pack. I’m currently reviewing some tasty offerings from Patagonia Provisions and will share that experience soon! I also occasionally carry some soup or homemade chili in a Hydroflask Food Flask.

    Navigation: I make my own custom maps using CalTopo and import them into the Avenza app on my iPhone. I’ll also print a hard copy to use in the field and carry the Suunto MC-2 Compass. I currently use the Garmin 3 HR Watch but wish to upgrade to the Garmin Fenix 5X Sapphire GPS Watch.

    First Aid Kit: I start with an Adventure Medical Ultralight .7 First Aid Kit and supplement with with a few extra pairs of Nitrile gloves, extra medications, iodine tablets, and a sam splint. I also stuff my backup headlamp and knife in my first aid kit so if I have my kit the next two items are definitely with me!

    Headlamp: I currently use the Petzl Actik Core Headlamp and a Petzl Zipka Headlamp stuffed in my First Aid Kit as a back-up. I would like to get the Petzl Nao+ Headlamp for night skiing and riding.

    Knife: A simple folding knife is always in my first aid kit, like this one.

    (much more coming soon)