Testing the Petzl Neox: Efficiency in Hauling & Ascension Systems

I’ve now had the Petzl Neox for about two weeks and have been able to form some opinions and test it in applications I’m most interested in. The most recent day I spent at the cliff with it was focused on seeing how it performed as a progress capture in an improvised hauling system and in a rope ascension system. Both these uses are important to me for assisting a seconding climber or rescuing an injured lead climber, and places where I would traditionally be using a Petzl GriGri. Here is some raw footage of this round of testing and some of my thoughts.

I assumed the Petzl Neox would work great for progress capture in this systems due to the spinning internal cog wheel and it definitely felt efficient in both the hauling scenario and the rope climbing scenario. I will be doing another round of comparisons with a more realistic full body weight load on the system but the fact the wheel still spun in my rope ascension test leads me to think it will still spin with a full load in a hauling system. This took me a little while to wrap my head around because you can seen when the device sees a full load while single strand rappelling the cam rotates, the wheel stops spinning, and you control your descent with the friction of the rope moving through the created bend. Why wouldn’t the wheel rotate and lock like that while using it as a progress capture?

The answer comes down to physics and while not having anything close to a degree in physics I can see how the device isn’t getting the full load in these scenarios. The full load is on the “tractor”, or friction hitch, or the Petzl Tibloc. When you go to pull slack through the Petzl Neox at that part of the cycle there is almost no weight on the device so the cam does not engage and the wheel spins freely reducing effort in hauling and ascending. When you relax during the hauling process all the load goes back to the Petzl Neox and the cam engages. Same with ascending, when you transfer your weight from your foot loop back to your harness the necessary threshold is exceeded and the cam engages. When you put your weight into your foot loop to progress the weight comes off the device and it is easier to pull the slack through the device then the Petzl GriGri.

Summary

It is still early in our broader exposure to this new belay device but the videos have been pouring out from influencers, highly certified guides, and rock star YouTuber’s. My opinion will likely evolve over the course of the summer as I put more days on the device, and expose more beginner climbers to it. For now I will re-iterate that I really like how easy it is to pull slack while belaying from above, and the more I think about it I do think this device may be in someways safer for a newer belayer as the instructions basically encourage you to not tough the device while paying out slack. This device may help prevent the holding open of the cam at risky moments which was likely part of the motivation of the anti-panic feature that came with the Petzl GriGri+.

Exclusive Discount with HowNot2.com!

I am really excited to announce I’ve partnered with HowNot2.com and can now offer my followers a 10% discount on anything you purchase at hownot2.com and support what I am doing with discount code “NEAlpineStart” <- capitalization does not matter!

See you in the mountains!

I hope this information is helpful for your to make an informed decision. While Petzl supplied me with a Neox to review this is not a sponsored post. Affiliate links above help me continue to spend time creating these videos and posts and I thank you for your support!

Petzl Neox Assisted Blocking Belay Device: Initial Look

Today I was able to get out to the cliff for a short bit to check out the newly released assisted blocking belay device, the Petzl Neox.

This is not a full in-depth review. It is a preliminary look at this new option in assisted blocking belay devices and I try to distinguish some of the obvious differences in the Petzl Neox, the Petzl GriGri, and the Petzl GriGri+. As time allows I will be diving more deeply into the topics I mention in the video. In the meantime please check out my initial thoughts and if you haven’t already please subscribe to the YouTube channel so I can keep sharing this type of content with all of you!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no addition cost to you. Thank you!

The Munter Hitch: History, Formation, and Applications

The Munter Hitch is one of the most valuable knots used in climbing and every climber should become familiar with this versatile hitch. While Werner Munter didn’t invent the hitch, a few Italian’s did in the 1950s, he was the one who popularized it in the 1970s and why it bears his name. This hitch works best on a large pear shaped locking HMS style carabiner like a Petzl Attach or Petzl William Screwlock Carabiner. Fun fact, the “HMS” is a German abbreviated for “Halbmastwurfsicherung” which translated means roughly “half a clove hitch” which describes the structure of this hitch. You can read more on this history of the hitch here.

  • Formation

To tie the Munter Hitch you form a twist in the rope similar to the Clove Hitch and drop a strand into the carabiner as well. It is really easy when learning this hitch to remove the twist when you add the second strand which leaves you with the rope just double looped through the carabiner which should be obviously incorrect. Watching a few videos of how to tie it along with plenty of practice tying it inside your home or on the ground should proceed you tying it for real life application.

One of the cool aspects of the Munter Hitch is that it is “reversible”, meaning it will flip through the carabiner into a different orientation depending on which strand is being loaded. During instruction we use the terms “load” strand and “brake” strand. If you only apply load to the “load” strand the hitch will end up in what is referred to as the “lowering” orientation. If we only apply load, or more commonly pull in slack while belaying, the hitch will flip through the carabiner into what is referred to as “belay” orientation. Generally when creating the Munter Hitch it is common to create an “air” hitch like demonstrated in the above video and then install it onto the carabiner. With a little practice it becomes efficient to tie the hitch directly onto the carabiner.

  • Advanced Formation

For those with a strong grasp on the basic ways to form the hitch it can be useful to learn how to tie the hitch onto the carabiner in the orientation it will first be operated. For example tying it so it is already in belay orientation, or tying it is it is already in lowering orientation. These methods can add efficiency especially when progressing to advanced self-rescue skills and for those seeking out guiding certifications in rock and alpine guiding.

  • Application
  • Belaying– The most common use for the Munter Hitch is an alternative to a plaquette style belay device like a Petzl Reverso or Black Diamond ATC Guide when belaying a second directly from the anchor. This choice may be because of a dropped belay device, or it may be for speed and efficiency, or it may be out of necessity (ice’d up frozen ropes while ice climbing can work better in this hitch and be near impossible to install into a plaquette).
  • Lowering– The smoothest way to lower a climber directly from above is by using a Munter Hitch and lowering directly from an anchor. A common misconception is this method will twist your rope up and/or greatly wear your rope as the hitch rubs on itself. Both of these conceptions are false with proper use of the hitch, which primarily means keeping the orientation of the BRAKE strand PARALLEL to the LOAD strand while lowering. Doing so will prevent any twisting of rope. The second consideration is conducting a smooth, steady, non-high speed lower. This will not damage the rope and modern rope have sheaths that can easily handle the minimal wear using this hitch hundreds of times will put on your rope. It is a good practice to use a “third hand” friction hitch on the brake side of the hitch connected to your belay loop while conducting anything but the shortest and simplest of lowers.
  • Rappelling– While it is possible to rappel short distances with the Munter Hitch attached to a locking carabiner on your belay loop it is a bit awkward to do so and the dramatic difference in angle that the two strands leave the hitch leads to massive rope twisting (and where this hitch probably got a misguided bad-wrap). In truth if you rappel by holding your brake strand parallel to the rope you can manage this without twisting your rope but this practice is very unintuitive to other modes of rappelling and I would only use it as a last resort.

Summary

The Munter Hitch should be in your top five familiar climbing knots. From belaying to lowering it has a lot of applications in climbing, especially in the self-rescue world when we start looking at tension releasable solutions (coming soon). If you haven’t used this hitch in your climbing take sometime to build it at home and see how it operates. Even with all the advanced and great belay devices on the market it is wise to have a fall back plan that only requires a single locking carabiner.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through on of those links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!

Preventing Rappelling Accidents: How to Safely Use Girth Hitched Rappel Rings

On April 28th, 2024 a climber fell almost 400 feet sustaining serious injuries when their rappel system failed. The suspected mechanism of failure was an improperly threaded girth hitched rappel ring. In this video I demonstrate how this occurrence is possible.

Some key take home points;

  • For better and/or worse we are seeing girth hitched rappel rings on fixed rappel anchors
  • Careful inspection of the hitch and proper placement of your threaded rope is CRITICAL
  • Best practice is to ALWAYS stress test your rappel connection BEFORE you remove your lanyard from the anchor.

    Alpine Savvy also has a nice post with more information and some opinions on this situation here.

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start

    Psst… You can get 10% off Rocky Talkies with “AlpineStart10” at this link!

    Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of these links the author receives a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

    Mastering the Clove Hitch: Essential Knot Tying Techniques

    The Clove Hitch is the most common knot used to secure oneself to an anchor and in this video I share the multiple ways I have learned to tie this excellent hitch.

    The first method I learned was to create the two asymmetrical loops and then “slide” the loops in front or behind each other. Then I learned the “crossed” hands method which takes a little practice but once you get it dialed it is a very fast way to form the hitch. The one-handed clove hitch is a bit of a party trick but still fun to learn. Finally learning to tie the clove hitch directly onto a carabiner with one hand is a worthwhile skill to master as you can increase your security on a small stance by holding onto the anchor with your off hand. I use this method most often while ice climbing but it’s useful in any climbing context.

    One tip to assist learning how to tie the clove onto a carabiner is to just start with a clove hitch already on the carabiner, and then slowly “deconstruct” the hitch only strand at a time. Then build the hitch again, and deconstruct again, and repeat until the muscle memory is gained!

    While you can also tie a clove hitch around a solid object, like a tree, I’ve never found a practical use for that method in the climbing world, so I do not demonstrate it here.

    How do you like to tie your clove hitch? Know any other methods that I haven’t listed here?

    Gear Used In This Video:

    Mammut Crag Dry Duodess Rope, 9.5mm

    Wild Country Mosquito Pro Harness

    Edelrid HMPE Cord Sling

    CAMP USA Nimbus Locking Carabiner

    Clothing Worn In This Video:

    Black Diamond Alpine Pants

    Ortovox Windbreaker Jacket

    Salewa Puez Knit PTX Hiking Shoes

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start

    Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through one of those links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

    Tech Tip: Extending From Your Anchor For Better Communicaton

    Rock Climbing Tech Tips
    “The Fairy Tale Traverse”, Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle, Huntington Ravine, Mount Washington. Photo by Peter Brandon

    Oftentimes we have anchors that are set back from the cliff edge. If we belay at these anchors communication can be hampered. In this video I demonstrate some of the methods you can use to extend yourself back to a position to improve communication (and provide better photo opportunities!).

    A question from a follower last week asked “Can I just estimate the length, clove in, and leave my belay device up at the anchor?”. While that could work, it is generally a better practice to keep your belay device within arms reach. In the event you need to lower your partner, or build a 3:1 haul system to help them, it is more easily handled when the belay device is still within reach.

    Another great way to improve communication is to climb with a pair of Rocky Talkies! These radios are incredibly rugged, lightweight, and are so much better to use than straining your vocal cords yelling “off belay” from 50 meters away. You can use promo code “AlpineStart10” at this link to get 10% off your own set of Rocky Talkies! A portion of every sale also sends money to Search & Rescue teams so I am quite proud to support this company!

    If you found this video useful please take the time to like and subscribe so that I can keep putting effort into creating instruction videos like this one! Also you have any questions or comments please let me know below!

    Gear Used In This Video:

    Mammut Crag Dry Duodess Rope, 9.5mm

    Wild Country Mosquito Pro Harness

    Edelrid HMPE Cord Sling

    CAMP USA Nimbus Locking Carabiner

    Petzl Grigri 2 Belay Device

    Clothing Worn In This Video:

    RAB VR Summit Jacket

    Salewa Puez Knit PTX Hiking Shoes

    See you in the mountains!

    Affiliate links above support the content created on this blog. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

    My Ice Climbing Kit

    While the New England ice climbing season is off to a bit of a sluggish start a follower recently asked if I had a gear list for what I take ice climbing. Thanks for the inspiration for this post Kyle! I’m going to list items in the order that I usually pack my pack.

    Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack

    Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack Review

    I’ve tested over a dozen packs specifically designed for waterfall ice climbing and this pack has held onto my #1 spot for best ice climbing pack. You can find my full review of this pack here.

    Patagonia DAS Parka

    If there is any chance of mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the reliability of a synthetic insulated belay parka, and the Patagonia DAS Parka is an industry leading choice.

    Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket

    If there is zero chance of encountering mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the warmth and packability of a down insulated belay parka, and for that the Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket is an excellent choice.

    Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket

    Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hooded Jacket Review

    If it is wicked cold out I’ve been known to pack a second light puffy so I can “double up” on my belay jackets. Conversely, if it’s really mild out I might just up for carrying a lighter puffy then the two jackets I mention above. For that the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket is a great choice. You can find my recent detailed review of this one here.

    32oz Wide Mouth Nalgene Water Bottle

    I typically only carry one 32 ounce wide mouth water bottle for most ice climbing day trips. I do not use any type of insulated parka to keep it from freezing. I just pack in above my belay jackets and close to the small of my back. In the coldest of temps I have never had it freeze when packed up against my back. If I want something with more flavor then water I reach for some of my Skratch Labs stash. If it’s a really cold mission, or a really long day, I also pack an insulated water bottle with some Borvo Broth. This stuff really tastes amazing and is an excellent mid-day energy refresher!

    AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit

    I use the AMK Ultra 0.7 Scout First Aid Kit as my base first aid kit then I add a few things to it that just live inside the kit. Like the Petzl e+lite headlamp, a small knife, and a small Bic lighter. I also slide a SAM splint down into the back sleeve of my backpack along with a CAT tourniquet.

    Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Ice Screw Case

    Hyperlight Mountain Gear Prism Ice Pack Review

    This case is perfect for packing and protecting my ice screws. I’ve used Petzl and Black Diamond screws for over two decades of ice climbing with few complaints. This season I have swapped out almost my entire rack for a set of the new Blue Ice Aero Ice Screws. I’ll have a review out on these as soon as Mother Nature brings the ice back into condition. For sizes my typical set up is one 22cm, eight 13cm, and one 10cm. If heading to the bigger ice at Willoughby I will add four 17 to 19cm screws. I carry a Grivel Candela V-Thread Tool which conveniently nestles inside my 22cm ice screw. In the zippered pocket in the ice screw case I have some zip ties and the allen wrench for my CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools.

    Author on Black Pudding Gully, WI4 – photo by Brent Doscher

    For clipping ice screws on lead I highly prefer the Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraws. Notchless wire gate carabiners are the best, and the larger rope side carabiner on these draws is glove friendly. It’s also a better carabiner if you ever climb on a two rope system. I carry 8 of these racked on a Petzl William Screw Locking Carabiner. On this carabiner I also have a “locker draw” that I build from a Petzl Express Quickdraw Sling and two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners. There is also one “alpine draw” built with a 60cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling and two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners clipped to this large locking carabiner, a 180cm Mammut Dyneema 8mm Contact Sling with two Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiners, and a pre-tied “mini-quad“.

    The rest of my climbing hardware is all clipper to a large locking carabiner and includes two Petzl Attache Locking Carabiners, my DMM Pivot Belay Device, a 16 foot length of Sterling Power Cord, a traditional 6mm cord tied into a small prussic, a 40cm Edelrid Aramid Cord, and a small carabiner knife.

    Inside my Hyperlite Prism Crampon Bag are my Petzl Dart Crampons and I often stuff a pair of Kahtoola MICROspikes in there as well.

    Next I stuff my warmer Black Diamond Guide Gloves in. It has to be heinous out there for me to end up switching into these beasts but I won’t risk not being able to keep my hands warm in the winter so these get packed even though I rarely wear them. I do most of my ice leading wearing CAMP USA Geko Ice Pro Gloves and Rab Power Stretch Pro Glove Liners.

    Inside my Petzl Sirocco Helmet (review) or Salewa Piuma 3.0 Helmet (I love both these helmets) I pack my preferred ice climbing harness which is the Petzl Sitta (my review) outfitted with three Petzl Caritools.

    Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody Review
    November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon

    In the top pocket of my pack I stick my Petzl IKO Core Headlamp along with some hand warmers, my snacks and food for the day. And since I know you are wondering what my favorite on mountain food choice is I’ll share that hands down the best food to take ice climbing is left over pizza from Flatbread NoCo!

    For a rope I prefer the Sterling Rope Fushion Nano IX 9mm by 60m rope. It’s a triple rated rope (single, twin, half) so it is ideal for guiding two clients on multi-pitch ice. I have two of them in the bi-pattern.

    While I already mentioned it above my ice tools of choice are the CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools. You can find my original in depth review of these tools here.

    Finally on the outside of my shoulder strap I clip my Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio. If you’ve been following me for awhile you know I’m a huge fan of these radios. They make climbing & skiing so much better than it was before. Did you know you can get ten percent off of them with code “AlpineStart10”?

    Links above are affiliate links. That means if you make a purchase from an online retailer after visiting those links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. These commissions keep this blog afloat. Thank you.

    Well that pretty much sums up what I pack for a day of ice climbing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I can go into my clothing system in another post if there is interest. Did I miss anything? What do you bring that I don’t? Got any questions about anything in my kit? Please comment below if you do have a question or if you found this post helpful in anyway. Temperatures are finally getting colder so I’m hoping to get out later this week and actually use this gear for what it is intended for!

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start

    Common Use FRS Zone Channels in the White Mountains

    With the welcomed increase of backcountry travelers using FRS and GMRS radios for internal group communication it is time we utilize a “Common Use Zone” system to improve group to group communication in the most popular zones of our region.

    Modeled after the Utah Avalanche Center’s “Group to Group Radio Channel Initiative” this system would be for these intended uses:

    Intended Uses & Radio Protocols:
    • A way for riders to communicate with people within their party and more importantly communicate with potential groups below and above you and your group.
    • To send a distress call to your group and other parties to aid in self rescue and to alert of potential threatening avalanche hazards.
    • To ask for someone to call 911 to mount an organized rescue, when 911 can’t be reached directly on your own.
    • Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
    • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
    • Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area

    Radio Communication between you and your group:
    • Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
    • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
    • Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area
    • General communication

    Radio Communication between multiple groups:
    • Route selection and timing to avoid riding directly above other groups
    • Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
    • Radio communication when your group is clear of a given line or area, alerting other groups of a clear run-out zone
    • General communication

    Here are some examples of the types of communication you might share or hear on these common use zone channels:

    “This is Sarah on channel 21 reaching the ridge via the south snowfields. With no signs of instability and inconclusive hand shears our party of three is heading over to the top of Main Gully”

    “This is Mark on channel 20, we just pulled out a small wind slab on our approach into Left Gully. Due to poor visibility we are transitioning here and dropping the bottom third of Left in a few minutes.”

    “Mayday, mayday, mayday. This is Lisa on channel 19, we have a medical emergency near the base of Yale Gully. We are unable to raise 911. Does any one copy?”

    The use of these radios does not take the place of solid decision making and carrying a Personal Locator Beacon like the Garmin inReach Mini 2 that can initiate a rescue if outside of both cell phone service and the limited range of FRS/GMRS radios.

    It’s important to understand that most FRS radios are single channel monitoring. Some GMRS radios can monitor two channels simultaneously but may require a license.

    The Common Use Zone Channel List*

    Tuckerman RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 22
    Gulf of SlidesFRS/GMRS Channel 21
    East Snowfields & Raymond CataractFRS/GMRS Channel 20
    Huntington RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 19
    Great GulfFRS/GMRS Channel 18
    Burt RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 17
    Ammonoosuc RavineFRS/GMRS Channel 16
    Oakes Gulf/Dry RiverFRS/GMRS Channel 15
    Crawford NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 14
    Franconia NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 13
    Evans NotchFRS/GMRS Channel 12
    GBA GladesFRS/GMRS Channel 11

    *No CT or Privacy Codes (0)

    In order to send and receive traffic on these channels from other groups you must ensure your radio is not using a CT/DTS privacy code. Check your radio’s user manual on how to turn these privacy codes off (or set to zero).

    Recommended Radios

    Common Use FRS Zone Channels
    The author touring a slide path in Burt Ravine (Channel 17) with his Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio

    Rocky Talkie Mountain FRS Radio <- My pick for 95% of people 10% off with “ALPINESTART10”

    Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio My pick for professional mountain guides, avalanche course instructors, search & rescue teams 10% off with “ALPINESTART10”

    Backcountry Access BC Link 2.0 FRS Radio

    Backcountry Access BC Link Mini FRS Radio

    Motorola Talkabout T600 H20 2-Way FRS Radios

    *Due to using over 2 watts of power of the Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio requires licensing with the FCC. The process is quite simple online, took me about 30 minutes to complete, and cost $35. Detailed instructions how how to obtain a license can be found here. The above links are affiliate links which means if you purchase a radio through these links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

    I’m hoping this suggestion becomes widely adapted by our backcountry community. Since a growing percentage of backcountry travelers are already carrying radios it makes good sense that we improve the overall communities safety by adapting a common use zone list like this.

    ZONE MAP STICKERS! $2 each!

    Common Use FRS Zone Channel Map

    3 x 3 inch stickers of the zone map pictured above are available! Put one in your field book and on your skis or board! $2ea., free pickup in Conway, NH, or $1 S&H. Venmo preferred. Please include local pickup or shipping address with payment.

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start

    References

    https://utahavalanchecenter.org/education/group-group-radio-channel-initiative

    UTILIZING COMMON RADIO CHANNELS IN HIGH-USE AVALANCHE TERRAIN

    Rocky Talkie List of Community Channels by State

    Affiliate links above support this blog

    Cyber Monday Guided Adventure & Education Sale

    Today only, Monday, November 27th, 2023, you can book an adventure or course with Northeast Mountaineering and save some serious moo-lah! Basically if you book one of these adventures today you get to bring a friend for free! I’m going to share exactly what programs are eligible and what the out of pocket cost per person would be if you decide to split this adventure with your adventure buddy, starting with the absolute best deal of them all!

    AIARE 1 Avalanche Course $550 ($275pp)

    Avalanche Courses Mount Washington
    Photo courtesy of Alexander Robert

    This is by far the most affordable way this season to get this essential course for anyone looking to spend time in avalanche terrain touring, ice climbing, or mountaineering. It’s a three day course that covers a semester worth of information in a mix of class room and field sessions. This education hasn’t been this affordable since I took my first avalanche course two decades ago. Grab your touring partner and sign up for this today while we still have many dates available! Sign up here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM” to be able to bring your friend for free! Discount lodging at the NEM Bunkhouse is also available!

    AIARE Avalanche Rescue Course $195 ($97.50pp)

    Avalanche Courses Mount Washington
    Buried to my waist in an avalanche I remotely triggered… this rescue went smoothly

    This 8 hour course is for anyone who might venture into avalanche terrain. It is designed for anyone who has yet to take a formal avalanche course like the AIARE 1 mentioned above, anyone looking to take their AIARE 2 course listed below, or anyone who hasn’t refreshed their avalanche rescue skills in awhile. A little bit of classroom followed by a lot of in the field realistic avalanche rescue practice. Time and money well spent! We only have two dates open this season so don’t delay grabbing a spot for you and your partner here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”. Discount lodging at the NEM Bunkhouse is also available!

    Ice Climbing $325 ($162.50pp)

    Ice Climbing White Mountains
    Author on Drool of the Beast (Grade 5), photo courtesy of Brent Doscher

    Been curious about expanding your climbing season to the frozen months? Use this Cyber Monday deal to make it attainable! Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

    Introduction to Backcountry Skiing $325 ($162.50pp)

    Backcountry Skiing Mount Washington
    Photo courtesy of Erik Howes

    Are you an expert skier at the resorts and looking to take adventure to the next level? Our backcountry ski skills course is jammed packed with necessary skills to get your shredding the pow out of bounds and away from the lines. Skiing the backcountry is about freedom and adventure. Out here, you earn your turns – but as you will discover the uphill travel is just as rewarding as the downhill descent.

    Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

    Participants need to be competent skiing intermediate [blue] terrain at their local ski hill. The outdoor portion of this course may be held at Pinkham Notch or in Crawford Notch if condition allow it may also be held at one of the local ski hills with an uphill policy.

    Backcountry Ski Touring $325 ($162.50pp)

    Backcountry Skiing Mount Washington
    Photo courtesy of Corey Fitzgerald

    Already have your basic backcountry ski skills dialed and looking to expand your skill set? This course is designed to get you into more involved terrain like the more advanced Granite Backcountry Alliance glades and areas like Gulf of Slides, Tuckerman Ravine, Burt Ravine, etc.

    Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

    Ski Mountaineering $325 ($162.50pp)

    This course is for the proficient backcountry tourer who wants to work on some more technical skills like snow anchors, roped/glacier movement, rappelling, and more to access the most difficult of ski terrain.

    Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

    One Day Mountaineering Skills Course $295 ($147.50pp)

    If you’ve never worn mountaineering boots or practiced “self-arrest” with an ice axe this is the course for you. Learn the foundation of skills that will help you travel in the mountains during winter more safely and comfortably. This is an excellent course for those pursuing the winter 4000 footers!

    Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

    Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue $325 ($162.50pp)

    Crevasse Rescue Course
    Photo courtesy of Northeast Mountaineering

    Have some bigger mountains on your bucket list? You don’t need to travel out west to hone the skills needed to do so safely and efficiently. This course covers the rope skills used to manage risk on glaciers and includes learning about improvised hauling systems, mechanical rope ascension, and crevasse recognition and avoidance.

    Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

    Guided Mount Washington Climb $325 ($162.50pp)

    Guided Winter Mount Washington

    Ready to attempt the biggest peak in the northeast in winter? This summit attempt is more than just a climb of the peak. Along the way your guide will teach you about proper preparation, common cold weather injuries and prevention, avalanche awareness, navigation, and more. No prior winter hiking experience is necessary but good fitness is key. The one day Winter Mountaineering Skills course above is often booked before this course if you want to feel best prepared for the day!

    Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.

    The Fine Print

    There isn’t much! Just book at the direct links I provided today before midnight PST (3am Tuesday EST). Make sure you put “DAVIDNEM” in the promo code to receive the special deal. Booking through the website does not guarantee I will be your guide for the chosen adventure, though if I am available on that date I will be your assigned guide. You can reach out to me at the contact info below with your requested dates and I will get back to you by this evening. My winter season is pretty well booked so far but I do have some mid-week availability still.

    This is the single biggest sale I have seen a guide service offer in recent years, so if you’ve been looking for a bargain on quality experiences and education, this… is… it!

    CONTACT INFO: You can use the contact form at the bottom of this page to send me a message, or email me at nealpinestart@gmail.com, or message me through my Instagram

    See you on the mountain,

    Northeast Alpine Start

    The First Avalanche “Save” in the East! Angel Slides Avalanche Accident 2-12-2022

    Angels Slide Avalanche Accident 2/12/2022
    Skier 2 after being fully buried for around 15 minutes after being rescued by his partner who was also buried in the avalanche this past Saturday. Photo courtesy of Adirondack Community Avalanche Observations (adkavy.org)

    This past Saturday around 1 pm history was being made on Angel Slides in the Adirondack mountains of upstate New York. Two skiers triggered a large avalanche that partially buried one and completely buried the other. As luck would have it one of the skiers was able to free himself from the snow in about 5 minutes. Using their avalanche transceiver they located their partner, buried nearby under 4 to 5 feet of snow. Unconscious and faintly breathing he regained consciousness while his rescuer continued to extract him from the snow. Ultimately they were both uninjured and they made their way back to the trailhead under their own power and reported the incident to a park employee.

    Angel Slides Avalanche Accident
    2/15/2022 The ski pole marks the hole where the second skier was dug out, the full path crown line is visible at the top of the path. Photo courtesy of Adirondack Community Avalanche Observations (adkavy.org)

    And with that the first ever avalanche accident “save” was made in the Eastern US.

    I use the word “save” to describe an incident where an avalanche victim is completly buried by an avalanche and recovered alive (and survives). This has never happened in the East, but I knew it was coming. Before 2019 I would often point out to my avalanche course students the interesting fact that no one had ever been buried in an avalanche in the East while wearing an avalanche transceiver. I would suggest that trend would change as more backcountry travelers were carrying the right equipment and it would only be some time before one of us found ourselves in the dark under the snow. Would we have a partner nearby who would be able to get to us in time?

    The first person to be fully buried in the East with a transceiver on was Nicholas Benedix on April 11th, 2019. Nicholas survived for over two hours buried in Raymond Cataract on Mount Washington, but ultimately succumbed to hypothermia, a tragic and unique part of the history of avalanche accidents in the East. It would take less than two years before we would have a second person fully buried in an avalanche with a transceiver on. On February 1st, 2021 Ian Forgays was buried by a wind slab he triggered in Ammonoosuc Ravine, also on Mount Washington. Neither of these victims suffered trauma in their avalanches, but like Nicholas, Ian was traveling alone and therefore had no one near him to make the “save”.

    With these two recent full burial accidents I’ve been suggesting to my students it is only a matter of time before we have a save. I would have put my money on the first East Coast save occurring on Mount Washington given the terrain and amount of visitation, but this moment in avalanche education goes to Wright Peak, in the Adirondacks.

    Angel Slides, Wright Peak, Adirondack Mountains, New York

    Avalanche Accident on Angel Slides
    The accident occurred on the right most slide, which was created during hurricane Irene in 2011. Photo courtesy of Adirondack Community Avalanche Observations (adkavy.org)

    The Angel Slides are a series of three slides on the eastern flanks of Wright Peak, elevation 4,587 feet. According to The Adirondack Slide Guide: An Aerial View of The High Peaks Region, 2nd Edition by Drew Hass, Tropical Storm Irene (2011) created the far looker’s right slide path which was the path triggered during this accident. According to CalTopo.com the path is about 1,100 feet long, 170 wide, drops 608 feet with an average angle of 31 degrees and a max angle of 43 degrees, and is a North East aspect.

    Avalanche Accident, Angel Slides
    Imagery from Google Satellite via CalTopo.com

    It should be noted that the only avalanche fatality known in the Adirondacks occurred on these slides, specifically the widest of the three, during February 2000, when Toma Vracarich and three friends were caught and carried. According to the Adirondack Almanac, all three of his friends were injured in the slide. He died beneath the snow and the slides were subsequently named the “Angel” slides. He was 27 years old.

    Another reference of this accident from the American Alpine Clubs publication

    Forecasting Issues

    Unlike the Presidential Range in the White Mountains of New Hampshire the High Peaks of the Adirondacks do not have an avalanche forecasting center. The New York Department of Environmental Conservation sometimes issues an early season “avalanche warning” but it is basically just an awareness statement with some links to learning about avalanches. Occasionally the National Weather Service issues an avalanche warning for the White Mountains Region. These warnings usually occur during obvious signs of danger like huge storms that dump two to three feet of snow in a short period of time but I haven’t heard if the NWS has ever done that for the Adirondack Region. Regardless these warnings don’t take the place of mid-season monitoring of the snowpack that occurs in a forecasted area like the one covered by the Mount Washington Avalanche Center.

    To help with this information gap a couple community minded backcountry enthusiast’s have created the Adirondack Community Avalanche Observations website where backcountry travelers can submit observations made while out recreating. This is a great resource for the Adirondack community and it was just started about a month ago!

    Another contributing factor to this accident is the type of avalanche they were dealing with. The followup investigation conducted by members of the Adirondack Community Avalanche Observations Team indicate that this was a Persistent Slab avalanche problem. This type of avalanche problem is not as common in our Maritime climate as it is in our Transitional (Utah) or Continental (Colorado) climates. When you have early season snow that is exposed to prolonged cold temperatures it can become very loose, “faceted”, and basically weak in structure. Then, as winter really arrives and subsequent snow storms bury that “rotten” layer of snow it can lie in waiting for weeks, sometimes months, for a trigger (us) to come and collapse that weak layer. We’ve been hearing this happen in this season’s snowpack in Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, and New York. It’s the awe inspiring “whumpf” heard when the layer collapses. In a flat field it’s a cool part of snow science to observe. On a slope approaching 30 degrees in steepness it’s a dreaded warning, like the shrill rattle produced by a threatened rattlesnake, it is the mountain telling us it’s about to bite.

    Summary

    History has been made in the East in regards to avalanche incidents. With no one else in the area two skiers survived a near death experience. The second hand account I received of the first skier, Bryan, regaining consciousness while choking on snow and partially, or fully buried just under the surface of the snow, conjured up an image in my head of an angel reaching down and brushing just enough snow away from his face for him to regain awareness, rescue himself, and then go on to rescue his partner. Remarkably and with out injury, these two survived an experience that could have easily gone south. Angel Slides was given its name after the passing of Toma Vracarich there in 2000. Maybe Toma was the one who brushed the snow away from Bryan and gave him a second chance? Or maybe it was just luck. Either way this is a story that could not have had a better ending, and I’m grateful it’s being told.

    Disclaimer: All information above was gathered from reports the victims submitted themselves and the report linked below. I have not spoken with either of the victims so there could be errors in my reporting. If I’m able to talk with with them I will update this post with more information.

    Other Media:

    Angel Slides 2/12/2022 Incident Report prepared by Nate Trachte and Caitlin Kelly, of Adirondack Community Avalanche Observations

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