Earlier this year I received a sweet duffle bag and backpack from Free Range Equipment. This small brother & sister company with its roots in the Cascades has partnered with two dozen artists to create an assortment of visually stunning canvas packs. I received the Picket Range Duffel with art by Nikki Frumkin and the Dusk at Shuksan Pack with art by Gianna Andrews. I selected these two packs as I climbed Shuksan in 2017 as my first Cascade summit and during that same trip climbed Rainier and Forbidden Peak which isn’t too far from the Picket Range. I’ve wanted to get back to the Cascades for another climbing trip and the artwork on both these will keep reminding me I need to make a return trip soon!
I don’t usually review non-technical packs and these are designed more for travel and day-to-day type use, but I feel I’ve used them enough to share some opinions on them. The craftmanship of both is easily apparent even to the untrained eye. The canvas is thick and rugged, the zippers and stitch work are obviously high quality. The duffle is listed as 55 liters which makes it useful for for everything from a crag bag to regular travel luggage. A concealed backpack system is so concealed I didn’t even realize it was there until my second trip with the pack!
The smaller backpack is listed at 25 liters. It’s a perfect size for a gym or commuter bag and can easily hold my harness, climbing shoes, laptop, water and snacks for a trip to the local park, coffee shop, or climbing gym! It’s got a nice sized internal mesh pocket, a top pocket, etc, but there isn’t to much more for me to comment on with these packs, other than they are eye catching in the best way. I admit I’ve never been artistically talented but I love the style of both these artists and if you take a minute to look through all the offerings on the Free Range website you’ll likely find something that catches your eye.
EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNT! Get 10% off with promo code “AlpineStart10” during checkout!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Media samples were provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you.
This winter I was introduced to a company that specializes in handmade sustainable Alpaca clothing, Paka Apparel. To experience the brand I received “The Hoodie” and a pair of their new Sebastian Ski Socks. While I usually review more technical clothing I was pretty excited to be exposed to a brand that has made some very positive impacts on a country I love, Peru. You can read the origin story here but I will just some it up that this company is incredibly environmentally conscious and ethical, paying their native workers more than live-able wages and providing university scholarships for many Peruvian women.
The Hoodie has quickly become my most worn non-technical piece of clothing this winter. It is the softest hoody I’ve ever owned and after ice climbing or backcountry skiing all day slipping into this hoodie is a joy. The material is so soft and thermoregulating I have found it is really comfortable for extended wear and I even find it great to sleep in. I prefer to sleep at a cooler room temperature then most (64 degrees) and the cozy warmth of this with the hood up definitely has led to some quality sleep. It’s a casual fit and a size large was perfect for my 5′ 9″ 185 LB 42 inch chest build.
The Sebastian Ski Socks fit great and the full length compression was welcomed on long tours. The size medium was perfect for my US size 9 feet.
If you are a fan of sustainable natural apparel from a company with solid ethics and practices take a look at Paka Apparel. They offer a full like of clothing from casual t-shirts to newly released insulated outer wear jackets underwear and more!
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through one of these links earns the author a small commission at no cost to you. Samples were provided to the author for purpose of review.
In the rolling hills of western New Hampshire in the small township of Pike, a unique and inviting new lodging property has opened on the slopes of Iron Mountain. The Innstead Mountain Getaway is exactly what its name implies. In our three day, two night stay we experienced the hospitality expected from a charming New England Inn coupled with a space artfully designed to help your family unplug and unwind.
Reservation Process:
Currently there are three options available to book on the property. Upper and Lower Guest House, both of which can accommodate up to four guests, and the larger “Pike Station” which can sleep six. For our visit we stayed in the contemporary designed accessible (no stairs) Lower Guest House. A few days before our arrival we received helpful emails from Bill and Siobhan, the hosts and general managers, with information on the self check-in process, nearby attractions, property maps highlighting the extensive trail network on site, and more.
Our Experience:
When we arrived in the later afternoon (check-in time is anytime after 3pm) we saw Bill and his children ice skating on the pond just a couple hundred feet from our car. Bill greeted us and we learned he had just confirmed the depth of the ice and cleared off the snow from the areas thick enough to skate on. They kids were having a blast and I made a note we would be bringing ice skates next time we visit.
My son, age 12, and my daughter, age 8, ran to the door of our rental excited as always to see where we would be staying for a few days. Upon entering my daughter made the observation that there was no TV! We let her know that was by design, because the interior and exterior area of The Innstead are created to help families reconnect away from the digital distractions of our time. With that in mind there is still ample WiFi on the property so if you need to stay connected to work you can. Our unit had plenty to keep our family involved during our indoor time including chess, Scrabble, Mancala, Uno, and our own North Conway version of Monopoly we brought from home!
Before settling in for the evening we walked over to “The Doghouse”. This common building is a place to hangout with other guests, grab a complimentary snack or seltzer, and get some coffee and light baked goods and fresh fruit in the mornings. A short patio path from here leads to a fire pit where nightly Smore’s are made available (weather permitting).
Back in our room we settled in for an early evening with plans to go skiing at the Dartmouth Skiway the next morning. The Lower Guesthouse has a queen size bed in a small bedroom separated by the main living area by curtain. The sofa had a pullout queen sized bed that the kids took command of. We all slept great thanks to the quality mattresses and linens provided. We also appreciated the climate control of the Mini Split air conditioners.
Through a partnership with the Dartmouth Skiway we were able to purchase discounted lift tickets directly from The Innstead for only $30 per person (vs. $60 weekend window rates). It’s only about a 35 minute scenic drive to the Dartmouth Skiway and we enjoyed the scenic rolling farmland and the impressive Peaked Mountain that dramatically came into view around a corner.
I’ll save our experience at the Dartmouth Skiway for another post but will just mention that we had an excellent time there due to the quality snow making, grooming, terrain, and small mountain vibe. Other ski mountains within easy day tripping distance of The Innstead include:
We returned to the property around 3:30pm and after checking local sunset time I decided to get ambitious and try to skin up Iron Mountain to check out one of the newest glade zones to be added to the Granite Backcountry Alliance. The rest of the family settled down for a little siesta while I put skins to skis and started up the well marked Joan Wolter trail from essentially the door of our lodging. This was an 1,100 foot climb over 1.6 miles long. Since I was hoping to beat sunset I kept a 20 minute/mile pace up the average 10% grade and I reached the summit in just under 50 minutes. Along the way I noted how much work has been done by The Pike Glades to artfully glade some steeper zones on the hillside along with some beautiful looking open fields that would be perfect for the beginner backcountry enthusiast to enjoy the sport.
Just below the geographic summit I took 10 minutes on the porch of a small rustic cabin charmingly called, “The Shire” on my CalTopo map to savor the views east of the frosted Mount Moosilauke, one of the most popular NH 4000 Footers, this one standing tall at 4,802 in elevation, the highest point between the Connecticut River Valley and the I93 corridor to the east. To the west I caught the last glimpses of sun and being unfamiliar with the vantage tried to see if I could spot Camel’s Hump in Vermont but couldn’t locate it given the visibility and possibly not having enough altitude.
Since light would wane quickly, I was solo, and the snow conditions were pretty thin for true glade skiing, I made the conservative choice to descend via the John Wolter Trail whose trailhead is the public access point for this Granite Backcountry Alliance zone off our NH Route 25, East Haverhill, and is basically the uphill skin route from that parking lot. This would also let me almost completely circumnavigate the whole area and make for a fun loop trip. During the descent I briefly stopped at “The Warrior’s Cabin”, which had a moving tribute to those who have fought for our freedoms. The former Marine in me let out a little “ooh-ra” before I continued my descent choosing lower “O’Brien Way” and “Yahoo/Yahoo Cutoff” to cut back over to The Innstead and avoid any road walking. With just a couple sections of flatter terrain and some herring-bone I was carving the last couple of turns right down to our cozy lodging an hour and a half after departing.
Bill greeted me in the parking lot to inquire on the conditions I found and the route I took. An AMC led tour group was coming the next day and he had plans to connect with them out on the trails. After a quick shower (excellent bathroom with quality organic soaps, shampoos, and towels) the family, mostly recovered from 4 hours of lift service and one slightly tired from one hot backcountry lap, jumped in the family van and headed to Bradford, VT, just 20 minutes away for a fantastic dinner at the Italian eatery, Colatina Exit. Call ahead for this place, the food and service makes it a hot spot. We were very happy with our meals and will definitely return if we are in the area again. Side tip, the GPS route to Bradford, VT from The Innstead is pretty much equidistant if you head south on Route 10 to the Piermont Bridge crossing, or travel north on Route 10 to the Newbury Crossing Road bridge. Because of that we recommend if visiting Bradbury to make it a loop trip so you can cross both state-line bridges and see more of the countryside!
Sidenote: Quietude
Coming from the bustling tourist area of Mount Washington Valley it was nice to be in an area with an old NH/VT feel. There is no Uber or Door Dash available here. Plan accordingly. Confirmation emails list the closest grocery stores based on what direction you are coming from. The Innstead room kitchens are fully equipped with brand new quality appliances. You could certainly save some money and just cook on site during your visit. We chose to spend some money in the surrounding towns and didn’t regret a single meal we had.
As we returned to The Innstead with full bellies and tired legs we caught sight of the lit up “Doghouse” up on the hillside just before turning up the long driveway. Even though we had only been guests for two days it felt like we were coming home in a way. While we had stayed out past the traditional Smore’s time the embers were still burning and even though we got our kiddos quickly into their PJ’s the Smore’s supplies were still out in the Doghouse and after chatting with Bill a bit about the inspiring growth and vision he and his wife have for the property I turned in for the evening and surprised both kiddos with a late night Smore treat… then made them brush their teeth again.
On the final morning we made one more stop at the beautiful Doghouse for some great coffee and home baked goods (Gramma Higgins coffee cake, handed down to Bill from his maternal grandmother!) before leaving for home. Siobhan and Bill joined us for some conversation regarding the current and future plans for their impressive property while my kiddos got to work making bead bracelets and necklaces with their own young daughters.
If you are looking for a place to unwind and unplug, to enjoy the natural world and its variety of weather conditions and lighting, somewhere with excellent hiking trails but not a lot of traffic, a vibe and energy that help you leave your phone in “Do Not Disturb” mode even though there is WiFi available, you should look at booking a stay at The Innstead Mountain Getaway.
Discount for Northeast Alpine Start Followers!
From now until the end of May my readers can get 15% off their stay at The Innstead with promo code “AlpineStart15“! There is a 2-night minimum stay but otherwise no restrictions!
Disclaimer: The author and his family were compensated a two night stay at this lodging in exchange for sharing their experience. No other compensation was made and all opinions stated are that of the author.
While the New England ice climbing season is off to a bit of a sluggish start a follower recently asked if I had a gear list for what I take ice climbing. Thanks for the inspiration for this post Kyle! I’m going to list items in the order that I usually pack my pack.
I’ve tested over a dozen packs specifically designed for waterfall ice climbing and this pack has held onto my #1 spot for best ice climbing pack. You can find my full review of this pack here.
If there is any chance of mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the reliability of a synthetic insulated belay parka, and the Patagonia DAS Parka is an industry leading choice.
If there is zero chance of encountering mixed or liquid precipitation I prefer the warmth and packability of a down insulated belay parka, and for that the Rab Mythic Ultra Jacket is an excellent choice.
If it is wicked cold out I’ve been known to pack a second light puffy so I can “double up” on my belay jackets. Conversely, if it’s really mild out I might just up for carrying a lighter puffy then the two jackets I mention above. For that the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hooded Jacket is a great choice. You can find my recent detailed review of this one here.
I typically only carry one 32 ounce wide mouth water bottle for most ice climbing day trips. I do not use any type of insulated parka to keep it from freezing. I just pack in above my belay jackets and close to the small of my back. In the coldest of temps I have never had it freeze when packed up against my back. If I want something with more flavor then water I reach for some of my Skratch Labs stash. If it’s a really cold mission, or a really long day, I also pack an insulated water bottle with some Borvo Broth. This stuff really tastes amazing and is an excellent mid-day energy refresher!
This case is perfect for packing and protecting my ice screws. I’ve used Petzl and Black Diamond screws for over two decades of ice climbing with few complaints. This season I have swapped out almost my entire rack for a set of the new Blue Ice Aero Ice Screws. I’ll have a review out on these as soon as Mother Nature brings the ice back into condition. For sizes my typical set up is one 22cm, eight 13cm, and one 10cm. If heading to the bigger ice at Willoughby I will add four 17 to 19cm screws. I carry a Grivel Candela V-Thread Tool which conveniently nestles inside my 22cm ice screw. In the zippered pocket in the ice screw case I have some zip ties and the allen wrench for my CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools.
Author on Black Pudding Gully, WI4 – photo by Brent Doscher
Next I stuff my warmer Black Diamond Guide Gloves in. It has to be heinous out there for me to end up switching into these beasts but I won’t risk not being able to keep my hands warm in the winter so these get packed even though I rarely wear them. I do most of my ice leading wearing CAMP USA Geko Ice Pro Gloves and Rab Power Stretch Pro Glove Liners.
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon
In the top pocket of my pack I stick my Petzl IKO Core Headlamp along with some hand warmers, my snacks and food for the day. And since I know you are wondering what my favorite on mountain food choice is I’ll share that hands down the best food to take ice climbing is left over pizza from Flatbread NoCo!
For a rope I prefer the Sterling Rope Fushion Nano IX 9mm by 60m rope. It’s a triple rated rope (single, twin, half) so it is ideal for guiding two clients on multi-pitch ice. I have two of them in the bi-pattern.
While I already mentioned it above my ice tools of choice are the CAMP USA X-Dream Alpine Ice Tools. You can find my original in depth review of these tools here.
Finally on the outside of my shoulder strap I clip my Rocky Talkie Mountain Radio. If you’ve been following me for awhile you know I’m a huge fan of these radios. They make climbing & skiing so much better than it was before. Did you know you can get ten percent off of them with code “AlpineStart10”?
Links above are affiliate links. That means if you make a purchase from an online retailer after visiting those links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. These commissions keep this blog afloat. Thank you.
Well that pretty much sums up what I pack for a day of ice climbing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I can go into my clothing system in another post if there is interest. Did I miss anything? What do you bring that I don’t? Got any questions about anything in my kit? Please comment below if you do have a question or if you found this post helpful in anyway. Temperatures are finally getting colder so I’m hoping to get out later this week and actually use this gear for what it is intended for!
With the welcomed increase of backcountry travelers using FRS and GMRS radios for internal group communication it is time we utilize a “Common Use Zone” system to improve group to group communication in the most popular zones of our region.
Modeled after the Utah Avalanche Center’s “Group to Group Radio Channel Initiative” this system would be for these intended uses:
Intended Uses & Radio Protocols:
A way for riders to communicate with people within their party and more importantly communicate with potential groups below and above you and your group.
To send a distress call to your group and other parties to aid in self rescue and to alert of potential threatening avalanche hazards.
To ask for someone to call 911 to mount an organized rescue, when 911 can’t be reached directly on your own.
Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area
Radio Communication between you and your group:
Radio communication between partners at areas of safety
Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
Radio communication when you and your group are clear of a given line or area
General communication
Radio Communication between multiple groups:
Route selection and timing to avoid riding directly above other groups
Radio communication regarding potential hazards, snow and avalanche information
Radio communication when your group is clear of a given line or area, alerting other groups of a clear run-out zone
General communication
Here are some examples of the types of communication you might share or hear on these common use zone channels:
“This is Sarah on channel 21 reaching the ridge via the south snowfields. With no signs of instability and inconclusive hand shears our party of three is heading over to the top of Main Gully”
“This is Mark on channel 20, we just pulled out a small wind slab on our approach into Left Gully. Due to poor visibility we are transitioning here and dropping the bottom third of Left in a few minutes.”
“Mayday, mayday, mayday. This is Lisa on channel 19, we have a medical emergency near the base of Yale Gully. We are unable to raise 911. Does any one copy?”
The use of these radios does not take the place of solid decision making and carrying a Personal Locator Beacon like the Garmin inReach Mini 2 that can initiate a rescue if outside of both cell phone service and the limited range of FRS/GMRS radios.
It’s important to understand that most FRS radios are single channel monitoring. Some GMRS radios can monitor two channels simultaneously but may require a license.
The Common Use Zone Channel List*
Tuckerman Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 22
Gulf of Slides
FRS/GMRS Channel 21
East Snowfields & Raymond Cataract
FRS/GMRS Channel 20
Huntington Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 19
Great Gulf
FRS/GMRS Channel 18
Burt Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 17
Ammonoosuc Ravine
FRS/GMRS Channel 16
Oakes Gulf/Dry River
FRS/GMRS Channel 15
Crawford Notch
FRS/GMRS Channel 14
Franconia Notch
FRS/GMRS Channel 13
Evans Notch
FRS/GMRS Channel 12
GBA Glades
FRS/GMRS Channel 11
*No CT or Privacy Codes (0)
In order to send and receive traffic on these channels from other groups you must ensure your radio is not using a CT/DTS privacy code. Check your radio’s user manual on how to turn these privacy codes off (or set to zero).
Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio My pick for professional mountain guides, avalanche course instructors, search & rescue teams 10% off with “ALPINESTART10”
*Due to using over 2 watts of power of the Rocky Talkie 5-Watt* FRS/GMRS Radio requires licensing with the FCC. The process is quite simple online, took me about 30 minutes to complete, and cost $35. Detailed instructions how how to obtain a license can be found here. The above links are affiliate links which means if you purchase a radio through these links I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.
I’m hoping this suggestion becomes widely adapted by our backcountry community. Since a growing percentage of backcountry travelers are already carrying radios it makes good sense that we improve the overall communities safety by adapting a common use zone list like this.
ZONE MAP STICKERS! $2 each!
3 x 3 inch stickers of the zone map pictured above are available! Put one in your field book and on your skis or board! $2ea., free pickup in Conway, NH, or $1 S&H. Venmo preferred. Please include local pickup or shipping address with payment.
Today only, Monday, November 27th, 2023, you can book an adventure or course with Northeast Mountaineering and save some serious moo-lah! Basically if you book one of these adventures today you get to bring a friend for free! I’m going to share exactly what programs are eligible and what the out of pocket cost per person would be if you decide to split this adventure with your adventure buddy, starting with the absolute best deal of them all!
AIARE 1 Avalanche Course $550 ($275pp)
Photo courtesy of Alexander Robert
This is by far the most affordable way this season to get this essential course for anyone looking to spend time in avalanche terrain touring, ice climbing, or mountaineering. It’s a three day course that covers a semester worth of information in a mix of class room and field sessions. This education hasn’t been this affordable since I took my first avalanche course two decades ago. Grab your touring partner and sign up for this today while we still have many dates available! Sign up here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM” to be able to bring your friend for free! Discount lodging at the NEM Bunkhouse is also available!
AIARE Avalanche Rescue Course $195 ($97.50pp)
Buried to my waist in an avalanche I remotely triggered… this rescue went smoothly
This 8 hour course is for anyone who might venture into avalanche terrain. It is designed for anyone who has yet to take a formal avalanche course like the AIARE 1 mentioned above, anyone looking to take their AIARE 2 course listed below, or anyone who hasn’t refreshed their avalanche rescue skills in awhile. A little bit of classroom followed by a lot of in the field realistic avalanche rescue practice. Time and money well spent! We only have two dates open this season so don’t delay grabbing a spot for you and your partner here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”. Discount lodging at the NEM Bunkhouse is also available!
Ice Climbing $325 ($162.50pp)
Author on Drool of the Beast (Grade 5), photo courtesy of Brent Doscher
Been curious about expanding your climbing season to the frozen months? Use this Cyber Monday deal to make it attainable! Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.
Introduction to Backcountry Skiing $325 ($162.50pp)
Photo courtesy of Erik Howes
Are you an expert skier at the resorts and looking to take adventure to the next level? Our backcountry ski skills course is jammed packed with necessary skills to get your shredding the pow out of bounds and away from the lines. Skiing the backcountry is about freedom and adventure. Out here, you earn your turns – but as you will discover the uphill travel is just as rewarding as the downhill descent.
Participants need to be competent skiing intermediate [blue] terrain at their local ski hill. The outdoor portion of this course may be held at Pinkham Notch or in Crawford Notch if condition allow it may also be held at one of the local ski hills with an uphill policy.
Backcountry Ski Touring $325 ($162.50pp)
Photo courtesy of Corey Fitzgerald
Already have your basic backcountry ski skills dialed and looking to expand your skill set? This course is designed to get you into more involved terrain like the more advanced Granite Backcountry Alliance glades and areas like Gulf of Slides, Tuckerman Ravine, Burt Ravine, etc.
This course is for the proficient backcountry tourer who wants to work on some more technical skills like snow anchors, roped/glacier movement, rappelling, and more to access the most difficult of ski terrain.
One Day Mountaineering Skills Course $295 ($147.50pp)
If you’ve never worn mountaineering boots or practiced “self-arrest” with an ice axe this is the course for you. Learn the foundation of skills that will help you travel in the mountains during winter more safely and comfortably. This is an excellent course for those pursuing the winter 4000 footers!
Have some bigger mountains on your bucket list? You don’t need to travel out west to hone the skills needed to do so safely and efficiently. This course covers the rope skills used to manage risk on glaciers and includes learning about improvised hauling systems, mechanical rope ascension, and crevasse recognition and avoidance.
Ready to attempt the biggest peak in the northeast in winter? This summit attempt is more than just a climb of the peak. Along the way your guide will teach you about proper preparation, common cold weather injuries and prevention, avalanche awareness, navigation, and more. No prior winter hiking experience is necessary but good fitness is key. The one day Winter Mountaineering Skills course above is often booked before this course if you want to feel best prepared for the day!
There isn’t much! Just book at the direct links I provided today before midnight PST (3am Tuesday EST). Make sure you put “DAVIDNEM” in the promo code to receive the special deal. Booking through the website does not guarantee I will be your guide for the chosen adventure, though if I am available on that date I will be your assigned guide. You can reach out to me at the contact info below with your requested dates and I will get back to you by this evening. My winter season is pretty well booked so far but I do have some mid-week availability still.
This is the single biggest sale I have seen a guide service offer in recent years, so if you’ve been looking for a bargain on quality experiences and education, this… is… it!
CONTACT INFO: You can use the contact form at the bottom of this page to send me a message, or email me at nealpinestart@gmail.com, or message me through my Instagram
“Isolated showers are expected to spread in around midday while temperatures for most elevations will remain above freezing, breezy” – from yesterday’s Mount Washington Observatory Higher Summits. Perfect for a follow up look of the updated Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody I recently received. I gave this piece a very detailed positive review back in 2016 and I’m happy to say that the original jacket is still in great condition despite 7 years of regular use!
Light rain and wind from neighboring Mount Washington arrives early afternoon and the Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody comes out…
Black Diamond upgraded the original material to a newer Schoeller Eco-Repel Bio® PFC-free DWR Technology which seemed to shed light rain longer then my original hoody. There’s more stretch in this material which not only allows more freedom of movement but when combined with the new drop hem around the bottom the jacket stays tucked under my harness while making long reaches.
DWR doing what DWR does…
This is one of the best ultralight active shell jackets there is! Weighing around 7 ounces there’s rarely a mission I don’t find it wise to toss this in the pack. While it is a highly water resistent windbreaker I find it even more flexible with my layering system. For example, in summer this has doubled as a sun hoody on hot day as mentioned in my 2016 review. It’s more than enough breathable for higher output activities like mountain biking. For multi-pitch traditional rock climbing this clips to the back of my harness for those mid-climb unexpected changes in weather. As it gets colder it fits well over my Merino wool hoodies. In very cold weather while backcountry touring it is a perfect wind shell piece that fits well under any of my light puffy jackets. For such a quality versatile piece I can’t think of who wouldn’t find a spot for this in their active outdoor clothing system!
In the summer of 1994 a reluctant long-haired 15 year old camper at Horton Center was tied into a climbing rope at the base of Chapel Rock and coached up his first rock climb, a 60-foot moderate with expansive views of Pinkham and Carter Notch (though he didn’t know the name of these notches at the time). About halfway up the climb, he looked to the right and noted the contrast of rugged green mountains, crystal blue sky, and vertically displayed granite. Something in his adolescent mind clicked, and he went on to pursue a lifetime of climbing and guiding around New England, out west, and abroad.
Almost thirty years later an alumni of Horton Center reached out to this former camper having found an old blog post he wrote about some of the climbing on the nearby East Face of Pine Mountain and extended an invitation to revisit the area in an effort to open up new climbing possibilities for the campers.
Of course the former camper was excited to revisit and contribute to this beautiful White Mountain crag that sits just below the North Peak of Pine Mountain. After a few weeks of research it is with great pleasure that I present this info on the climbing at Chapel Rock, 30 years after my first time climbing this crag, and invite you to come enjoy this scenic cliff.
History
Climbing at Chapel Rock (also known as the North Peak of Pine Mountain) possibly started as early as the 1940s and 1950s with the formation of the 10th Mountain Division and the need to train soldiers in the art of technical climbing in order to effectively fight in the World War II European theater. A hand-illustrated book by Dwight Bradley and Tad Pfeffer (Obscure Crags Guide- A Guide to Obscure Cliffs in New Hampshire, and Some in Maine and Vermont), publication date 1972 or 19731, offers this description:
“This small cliff could easily quality [sic] as a one pitch roadside practice rock if it wasn’t for the fact that the road is closed to the public. The small size of the cliff makes it almost not worth the relatively long approach: the cliff is 60’ or 70’ and the walk in is about two miles. It is a really solid, pretty little piece of rock, though loaded with cracks and corners and almost dirt-free. The vertically jointed rock is quartz schist of the Littleton formation.
The climbs are numbered. Seriously. Numbers have been painted on the rock. For instance, numbers one and two are parallel low angle flakes which may be laybacked no hands, and number four is a clean dihedral. The story behind these numbers is that the Green Berets train here (as well as at the E. Face of Pine) during their annual June war games. The rock is studded with rusty Army pins. Those guys must aid everything. To make matters worse, somebody found the time to place a bolt right next to a perfect MOAC placement on the summit.
To get there, take the WMNF Pine Mtn. Tr., which is a road (closed to cars), all the way to its end at the Channel 10 TV tower. From the broadcasting station, a set of powerlines leads E, passing the cliff’s base in about 100 yards. A small trail leads down from the summit, which is occupied by an old rugged cross, making for a quick descent.”
Paul Cormier, who was a camper at Horton Center in the 1960s, recalls the military using the cliffs for training and has shared interesting photos of him performing a Dufersitz rappel and nailing out the impressive looking central nose feature (see photo section). He estimates that Ian Turnbell placed a few of the current bolted anchors about 15 years ago (around 2008?).
(Paul Cormier using the Dülfersitz rappel method at Chapel Rock, circa. 1968)
(Paul Cormier aid climbing the thin seam that comes out the right side of the impressive central “nose”. A keen eye can find the pin scars today from this ascent)
(Paul turning the corner of the roof. Note his brother with the attentive hip belay)
Ian Turnbell, the brother-in-law of Tad Pferrer, co-author of the guidebook mentioned above, also climbed here in the late 1970s and early 1990s. He recalls placing 4 or 5 of the anchors in the late 1980s but isn’t quite sure of the exact dates. He clearly recalls the anchor above Storybook getting moved and I can confirm this was the situation when I checked the site in Fall 2023. There are two bolts without hangers to the right of the current three bolt Storybook anchor.
In 1997 Al Simons and Steve Buck placed or replaced the bolted anchors on Storybook and Easy Rider, which is probably when the Storybook anchor was moved. Other anchors that were probably placed (or replaced) at that time are a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of “The Flake”. A two bolt anchor at the top of “Whistling in the Dark” which is set a bit far back from the edge and has no chains. This will be one of the first anchors I try to replace with a modern glue-in anchor that is below the lip of the cliff. Another two-bolt anchor with chains is at the top of Easy Rider. It should be noted that the camp leaves locking carabiners on these chains during the camp season to facilitate their climbing program. If you find any locking carabiners on any of the fixed anchors at this privately-owned crag please leave them in place. There may also be fixed ropes above these bolted anchors that counselors leave in place to help with accessing these anchors during the camp season. These should also be left in-place.
Access
This entire area is on the private property of the Horton Center and access to the climbing area is only permitted outside of the summer camp season. Climbing here is NOT PERMITTED from June 10th through August 15th. The climbing area is very close to the Camp facilities so please follow the approach directions carefully so as to not trespass on the area of the Camp that is off limits (essentially all buildings and grounds past the Pine Mountain Loop Trail, see directions and beta photos below).
Getting There
From Route 16 north of Pinkham Notch and south of Gorham take Dolly Copp Road (not maintained in winter) 1.9 miles to the parking lot for Pine Link Trail (19T 032216E, 4913606N 1646 elev.). From Route 2 in Randolph take Pinkham B Road (not maintained in winter) 2.5 miles to the parking lot for Pine Link Trail (19T 032216E, 4913606N 1646 elev.).
Take Pine Mountain Road. 700 feet from the parking lot the road may be gated. If it is, park at the Pine Link Trail parking lot and walk the 1.3 miles (560+ elev.) to the Pine Mountain Loop Trail (19T 0323413E, 4915203N 2180 elev.) If the road is not gated you may drive this approach carefully. The road is narrow in spots and there may be a vehicle coming the other direction. Park in one of the small pull offs close to the Pine Mountain Loop Trail before you reach the Horton Center Camp.
(The pulloff just past this sign is the last parking spot the public may use to access this climbing area if the gate is open. Do not drive past the yellow sign)
Hike the Pine Loop Trail .3 miles (95+ elev.) to the base of the climbing area (19T 0323769E, 4915255N 2220 elev.)
The Climbs
From left to right the established routes are as follows:
The Flake (5.3)
The most left route at the crag, history says that this route was often solo climbed by the more adventurous counselors at the nearby summer camp. It is a striking feature and while only 5.3 in difficulty you won’t find protection until about 20 feet up unless you carry a Black Diamond #5 cam or larger. The crux is the first few moves though and you’ll soon be able to get your leg behind the flake if need be and start finding protection higher up as the crack narrows. A two bolt anchor with chains is about 60 feet from the ground.
Lost and Found (5.9+)
A bouldery direct start gets you up to the stellar 5.5ish finger crack if you don’t use the pine tree at about 5.9+. An alternate start just to the right that utilizes the tree is probably around 5.7 though difficult to protect on lead. Once pulling the last tricky move to gain the lower angle crack above you’re in for some of the best 5.4-5.5 finger crack jamming you’ve ever done in NH. At the end of the crack a new two bolt anchor with rap rings was installed on September 4th, 2023 by Bob Ahern and David Lottmann.
(After getting through the initial tricky start of Lost and Found you are rewarded with this stellar 5.5ish finger crack)
Storybook (5.5)
A very interesting chimney system with ample protection, fun stemming, and some cool views into a deep chasm into the cliff mid-route. At the top is a three bolt anchor with chains set up on two of the bolts.
The Nose (A1?)
This was actually done as an aid climb by Paul Cormier around 1968, (see photo in history section).
Whistlin’ in the Dark (5.9)
The steep left face of Easy Rider, great jamming and movement with good protection. History says that the counselors at the nearby camp could not claim they had climbed this route unless they did it under a full moon. The two bolt anchor at the top is not in a great spot and will hopefully be updated and moved over the edge in the near future.
Easy Rider (5.6)
An aesthetic line (where the rope is) up the left facing dihedral. You can stay in the original corner for a bit to up it to 5.7ish or look to get into the right side crack early to keep the grade at 5.6. Fun moves with amazing views of the Imp Face, Cartner Notch, and Pinkham Notch over your right shoulder. And is that Mount Madison behind you at the top? Why yes, it is. The route ends at a two bolt anchor with long chains.
Note: Above these climbs are some fixed ropes that the camp staff utilize to set up top-ropes for their climbing program. Please do not alter/remove the ropes or locking carabiners that may be there when you visit.
Descent
All of these climbs (except Whistlin’) have easy-to-use fixed anchors for descending. There are plans to upgrade these anchors to glue-in style anchors with ramheads or mussey hooks in the not-too-distant future. If you decide to top out it is a short scramble to the scenic “Chapel Rock” lookout where a cross and natural pulpit reside. During camp season this ledge was a fond memory as the camp conducts “Evening Vespers” here… and I would stare off at the distant mountains as the sun set and spark a lifetime passion for time spent in the mountains. A short walk back down a nice path brings you back to the bog boardwalk that leads you back to the base of the cliff. Please be mindful of the signage that will keep you from entering the camp proper.
Support Public Access to Chapel Rock
Public access to Chapel Rock is NOT guaranteed. When climbing here be the best stewards you can possibly be. Horton Center does have the right to restrict access at any time of year if they have an event, so if you are asked to leave by staff please comply with a smile. You can support the mission of Horton Center and thank them for allowing access with a donation here.
1 From phone interview with Tad Pfeffer on 9/16/2023
In New Hampshire it is prudent to protect yourself from tick borne illness from April through November when recreating outdoors. There are five possible tick borne diseases that have been reported in the state:
Lyme disease <- most common reported tick borne illness and can have lasting effects even after treatment.
Anaplasmosis <- pretty sure I had this from a tick bite I got in southern MA a few years ago. Fever & chills but luckily a pretty mild disease that will often resolve on it’s own. My sickness only lasted 48 hours.
Babesiosis <- Babesiosis is a disease you get from the bite of a tick infected with the parasite Babesia. It causes flu-like symptoms and can lead to severe illness.
Powassan <- While rare reported cases are on the rise of this potentially fatal disease.
The single most effective defense against ticks is to purchase pretreated clothes or treat your clothing at home with Permethrin. This pesticide is intended to treat clothing and gear (hiking shoes) and is not for direct skin application. The directions indicate to spray your clothing while you are not wearing it and let it dry completely. Once the pesticide dries there is no toxic risk to humans and it doesn’t get absorbed into your skin even if you are sweating. The protection lasts for weeks and even after washing the clothes. I treat two pairs of pants and two sun hoodies, like this Florence Marine Sun Pro Stratus, at the beginning of bug season and the protection pretty much lasts through the hiking season. I also treat two pairs of hiking shoes. The effectiveness of this product is remarkable. When I am dressed in my treated clothes and wearing my treated shoes I can wade through a tick infested tall field of grass and come out tick free on the other side. If a tick is brave enough to try to crawl up my shoes and pants it will just die and fall off. Another bonus to this tactic is this pesticide is also effective at repelling black flies, gnats, and mosquitos, so when I where these treated clothes I can often skip applying any type of topical bug repellent which feels like an overall healthier choice. While the research shows there are no long term negative health effects it should be mentioned that before this pesticide dries it is very dangerous to cats. Neurologically something bad can happen if cats get exposed to this before it dries, so cat people be sure to treat your clothes far away from any felines!
Step 2: Carry a Topical Repellent
While I find Permethrin gives me the protection I need 95% of the time I still carry a small bottle of repellent for when the mosquitoes are fierce (often dusk or dawn). In my experience natural herbal repellents only last for mere minutes after application and require constant reapplication to have any effectiveness. That leaves me with only two other options that are effective, and I strongly prefer one over the other.
DEET– While I used this for years and can attest to its effectiveness I never liked applying this to my skin. The 100% formulas are so strong (and toxic) that they would keep working even after bathing. The chemical can literally melt through plastic and nylon making it a poor choice for backpackers, hikers, and climbers who often have gear made from these materials. If it’s all you have and you need protection I would use sparingly and according to directions. Luckily a relatively new option has come to market that I am a huge fan off…
Picardin– This repellent has been approved by the EPA since 2005 but I still find many outdoor enthusiasts have not learned about it’s effectiveness when compared to DEET. In my experience it is just as effective as DEET but with out all the concern around synthetic materials. It doesn’t melt through plastic and it doesn’t feel like it’s still on my skin after bathing. I carry a small bottle of it in my pack for times when either I’m not wearing my treated clothing or the mosquitos are just in full on feeding mode.
Step 3: Head Net
For less than two ounces and a few bucks I have a Sea to Summit Head Net stuffed away in my backpack for one more physical barrier between me and the biting things. This head net is pretreated with Permethrin. You can find all the clothes REI has that are pretreated with Permethrin at this link. You can find all the clothes at BACKCOUNTRY that are pretreated with Permethrin at this link.
Step 4: Tick Checks
Finally, the last thing you can do to protect yourself from tick borne illness is a quality “tick check” when you get back home from your adventure. The good news is it takes time for ticks to transmit disease after biting you. The CDC actually states it takes 36 to 48 hours for an attached tick to transmit Lyme. Some of the other diseases can transmit faster though so best practice is to do a tick check every night before bed if you’ve been out playing in the mountains. Ticks will often prefer attaching in hidden crevices and areas with hair. This means your tick check will be quite personal. A small mirror can help you check places you can’t easily see. If you find an attached tick don’t panic, they are usually not to hard to remove but you want to take care that you keep the tick whole. Pinch with fingernails or small tweezers at the very base of the tick and apply steady pulling pressure until it comes out. Wash the bite area with soap and water. If concerned that the tick was attached for more than 36 hours you could send it in to testing using this form.
Image from CDC.gov
Summary
Unfortunately ticks and associates tick borne disease are on the rise. Hopefully some of the tips and suggestions I’ve shared above can help you create your own line of defense against these nasty little parasites.
I’ve now had a couple months to test the new Salewa Ortles Guide 35 Backpack and I’m ready to publish my review!
TLDR Version: The Salewa Ortles Guide 35 Backpack is a rugged lightweight technical backpack that is an excellent pick for general mountaineering, waterfall ice climbing, and ski mountaineering.
How I Tested:
I’ve taken this pack on a half dozen trips so far. Two general winter mountaineering trips up Mount Washington, a few waterfall ice climbing trips, and on one ski mountaineering objective.
What I Really Liked:
Hard to pick my favorite feature as there are a few of them. Let’s start with the roll top closure and removable “brain”. Around the rim of the roll top Salewa added a stiffener that reminds me of those wrist snap bracelets from yonder years. This stiffener creates a great seal that makes rolling the top of the pack down easy and makes a great seal to keep snow out of the pack in inclement weather. A magnetic “over the roll” strap helps secure climbing ropes and slim the profile of the pack if I’ve decided to remove the “brain” for a more streamlined climbing pack.
Both of the two external zippers on the pack are the high end waterproof zippers I prefer, the Salewa does not claim the pack to be waterproof I found it to be one of the more “snowing hard out”-proof bags I’ve tested. The horizontal zipper near the top accesses a pocket that was big enough to carry my avalanche shovel and probe on a recent ski mountaineering mission. The diagonal side zipper gives the user another access point to reach their water bottle without having to go through the roll-top access point.
The backpack features reinforced side carry loops for A-framing your skis. The upper compression straps have a nice “separator” straps for securing any type of ice axe from mixed climbing tools to general mountaineering axes.
The “Dry-Back” back panel and molded shoulder straps felt awesome for both carrying heavier loads while ski mountaineering or while climbing vertical frozen waterfalls.
I found the 35 liters to be generous and was easily able to pack my for guide kit for a technical day of ski mountaineering (post coming soon to show that gear list).
Salewa is definitely a safety orientated company at the sternum strap whistle is the best quality I have seen for a sternum strap whistle. Beneath the removable lip is also information relating to the “Alpine Emergency Signal” which includes a diagram showing how to put an injured person into the “recovery position” and the numbers for contact emergency services in Europe and US & Canada, along with SOS morse code instructions.
Finally, I love the color. I’m a huge fan of bright colors in backpacks from both a Search & Rescue perspective and a general preference.
What Could Be Improved:
There is not too much here I would change but a few things did come to mind while testing the pack. Probably the biggest is the reinforced lower compression straps do not have releasable buckles. So if carrying a rope coiled in a single strand butterfly coil (quite common these days) you’ll need to “tuck” the rope into the ski carry loops if you want the rope fastened securely. A minor issue for sure but I do like packs where all four side compression straps can be opened.
While this pack was designed and marketed toward “ski mountaineering” vs. backcountry touring the avalanche tool pocket could use one small drain hole towards the bottom. It was also a bit tight for my super light carbon avalanche probe and shovel (what I carry on more technical tours vs. general backcountry skiing. My larger shovel and probe may not have fit in this pocket.
Summary/Who Is This For?
In summary this is a very well designed backpack made by a great company. I had way more great things to say about the pack then the couple of small nitpicks I mentioned. Who should consider purchasing this backpack? This backpack is best designed for an ice climber who occasionally goes touring or a winter above tree-line type hiker. I did not rig snowshoes to the outside of the pack but it shouldn’t be hard with a couple straps to easily fasten them to the outside. So if you are into ice climbing, winter hiking, and maybe do a little backcountry touring on the side, maybe this could be the backpack for you! You can find it in the US at these retailers:
