This winter I have been using the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe for guiding winter Mount Washington ascents. I have also been using it for teaching mountaineering skills courses. The bottom line? This is a solid choice for a general mountaineering axe with some nice features. I chose the 68 centimeter size for my 5’9″ height. The axe is also available in 50, 60, and 75 centimeter lengths. The 68 centimeter size weighs 365 grams.
The head of the axe has a classic shaped pick which is most effective for self-arrest. The sharper and more aggressive tip of the pick is suitable for overcoming the occasional ice bulge. The adze is wider than most similar style axes. It provides a comfortable grip when using the traveling hand position (piolet panne). The small concave dip at the top of the shaft adds comfort for the self-arrest grip. The tool comes with the “LINKIN” removable leash, a $20 value. Personally I don’t like to use leashes on my ice tools so I did remove it before testing.
A removable pick protector is included. For casual climbs without much fall hazard I think it makes sense to leave the tip protector on. As your route becomes more technical with occasional ice bulges and more exposure to long sliding falls I would choose to leave the protector at home or in the car at the trail-head.
A removable spike protector is included as well. I liked how I could slide this up the tool during a casual ascent. This way, it would not interfere with proper “piolet canne” technique. After the axe was put back on my pack and I took my trekking poles out it was quick and easy to cover the sharp spike.
After a half dozen trips into the mountains with the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe, I can easily recommend it. It is suitable for anyone shopping for a well-designed general mountaineering axe. More important than what axe you buy though is that you seek out the training in its proper use. Consider taking a Mountaineering Skills Course so that you can learn proper crampon and ice axe technique before relying on this equipment to protect you. You can use the contact page here to check my availability if you would like to request me as your guide.
Here is a quick video we shot yesterday after a successful summit of Mount Washington where I point out basic nomenclature of a mountaineering axe.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
The last few months I’ve been testing out Black Diamond’s newest addition to the ultralight backpack market, the Black Diamond Beta Light 45. I’ve primarily been using it to haul 20 to 30 pounds of climbing gear while running over a dozen climbing trips in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I’ve also carried it with an overnight load on a few search and rescue missions. With over 100 miles of trail use I’m ready to share my thoughts on this pack! First the manufacturer descriptions and technical specifications:
Manufacturer Description
The Beta Light 45L is our answer to the ultralight backpacking revolution. Inspired by our athletes and utilizing a running-vest style suspension harness system from our distance running series packs, the Beta Light 45L is simply built for moving fast on overnight adventures in the backcountry. Whether you’re spending months on the PCT or making the most of a two-week trip, the Beta Light 45L carries all the essentials in a weatherproof, sleek design that doesn’t sacrifice comfort.
Built for moving fast and covering long distances, the Beta Light UL 45 is the ultimate blend of durability, lightweight construction and load carrying comfort. We partnered with Challenge Sailcloth to bring their Ultra 200 body fabric to our Beta Light series to create one of the lightest yet most durable packs on the trail. This durable fabric, combined with taped seams and a roll-top closure, make the pack weatherproof and able to stand up to day-in-day-out use. A simple, Power Mesh stretch pocket and two side pockets provide plenty of external storage options, while the pack’s running-vest inspired shoulder strap harness system provides support and comfort with additional snack pockets and water bottle storage options. A removable hip belt, lightweight aluminum frame, and removable foam back panel provide options for reducing weight even more.
Product Features
Challenge Sailcloth Ultra 200 body fabric is lightweight, tear resistant and extremely durable
Running vest-inspired shoulder straps with extra storage pockets makes for comfortable and dynamic carrying system
Roll-top closure, taped seams and waterproof fabric create weatherproof pack body
Removable frame pad gives structure with minimal weight penalty
External Power Mesh stretch outer pocket and two oversized ripstop side pockets
Removable hip belt system can reduce weight or allow for user modification
Four adjustable and removable Dynex core compression straps secure the pack and allow for alternative adjustment and lashing systems
Internal sleeve is hydration bladder compatible
Modular Design allows quick and secure attachment of the Beta Light Satellite 4L Bag for additional storage
Opinions
Not considering myself a “trail runner” the first thing I noticed when unboxing this pack was the “running-vest” style shoulder strap system. This was the first time I would be using this style suspension system on a pack of this size. I’ll be honest, I was skeptical. For a pack that claims to be able to carry up to 40 pounds how could this style of shoulder strap work out for me? Being open minded helps, and I came to realize you can substitute area for padding of traditional shoulder strap systems and still have quite a comfortable carry. If you’ve never used a running vest style shoulder strap system it may seem weird for a minute. After the first dozen of miles of carrying 30+ loads I saw how these wide contoured thin shoulder straps efficiently distributed the weight in a comfortable manner.
The next aspect of this pack that got my attention is the extremely rugged and light “Ultra 200 Sail Cloth”. It feels like flexible invincible steel. With taped seams and 400 weight on the bottom of the pack I have a lot of confidence in the miles and abuse this pack will handle before any wear is shown. Like many packs of this category they are just made of something different then the old school Nylon Cordura products that had a sub-decade type lifetime. This pack is built to last for more than a decade of adventures, and I’ve been saying it for over a decade consider that when price comparing packs made from less impressive fabrics.
The third standout feature in my opinion is the huge stretchy external back pocket. I used this most often for my chalk bag and my rain jacket, but there’s so much more room here if needed! On a recent SAR mission it easily accepted my full length rolled sleeping pad. The oversized side pockets with angled top designs easily secure traditional 32 ounce wide mount Nalgenes.
As I work my way down the features of this pack I have to appreciate the large roll top opening that lets me dump whole racks of traditional climbing gear, a 60 meter climbing rope, and everything else I need for a day of multi-pitch rock climbing. The roll top closure combined with this fabric makes the pack feel quite water and weather resistant. With limited experience with running style shoulder straps I really liked the stretchy pockets on both shoulder straps using the left side open one to keep my iPhone 13Pro Max secure and accessible and the zippered pocket on the right to stash an assortment of on-the-go snacks.
Summary
While I have a lot of experience testing ultralight backpacks this was the first larger model I’ve tested with a running style shoulder strap system and I can see the merits of this design. Loads up to 30 pounds were quite comfortable to carry and I liked the stream line design of the pack without really any extraneous additions. The pack is made of incredibly robust yet super light fabric and I have no doubt it will hold up well to thousands of miles of adventure. This pack is well designed for Thru-hikers, ultralight backpackers, rock climbers, and mountaineers. If you are interested in shaving some ounces off your 45 liter size backpack while maintaining a comfortable carry and durable design the Black Diamond Beta Light 45 should be on your radar!
A media sample of this backpack was provided at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
The Mammut Trion 38 backpack is versatile 4 season backpack suitable for summer backpacking trip, winter mountaineering trips, ice climbing and backcountry skiing. If you are looking for a backpack that can perform well in any of these adventures the Mammut Trion 38 deserves a look especially at a sub $200 MRSP!
Let’s start with the manufacturer description and then get into some details and opinions!
Manufacturer Description
The ideal partner for climbing, ski tours, and mountaineering, this versatile pack serves up lightweight comfort and exceptional durability for year-round alpine pursuits. Water-repellent and abrasion-resistant, our full Trion line was developed with pro alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Nico Hojac to optimize every last detail. Made of primarily recycled materials, the Trion 38 offers a host of practical features, including ice axe attachments, quick side access to the main compartment, and a designated avalanche equipment compartment. Complete with contact back system for optimal load transfer, you can stay fully focused on the next move ahead.
Suggested Activities
According to Mammut this pack was designed with these activities in mind. While I like this graphic visual I think it misses “ice climbing” and “cragging” as great uses for this pack, and I’m not even sure what one looks for in a Via Ferrata pack?
Features
Rolltop closure with zipper
Two ice axe attachments
Zippered side access to main compartment
Compartment for avalanche equipment
Elasticated chest strap for optimum comfort and a perfect fit
Large mesh pockets on the shoulder strap
Reinforced side ski attachment
Trekking pole carrier
Hydration system-compatible
Rope attachment on flap
Compression straps can be tensioned at side and front
Comfortable thanks to the anatomically shaped, soft padded hip belt and shoulder straps
Robust, abrasion-proof outer material
Flap with external and internal pockets with key pocket
How I Tested
I tested this pack from mid-March 2024 to June 2024 while leading winter hiking trips above tree line in the White Mountains, teaching avalanche courses, and sneaking in some late season waterfall ice climbing in Dixville Notch. I’ve also taken it one some Spring hiking and climbing trips with loads up to 30 pounds.
Performance & Opinions
On the first day of use I appreciated the roll top with stiffener zippered closure for the main top access. This type of access allows you to really open the top of the pack up to make loading it with a gear quick and easy. With 38 liters (2,400 cubic inches) of space the pack easily swallowed my extra clothes, a 60 meter climbing rope, a full traditional climbing rack, and everything else one needs for a day of adventuring. My 70 ounce hydration bladder slid smoothly into the internal mesh sleeve and the one side zipper access point let me dig out my first aid kit to grab a blister bandage when my hiking partner developed a bit of a hot spot.
While priced closer to a general backpacking pack the Mammut Trion 38 has all the features of high end mountaineering packs. Things like dual ice axe loops that also have the elastic T-shaped pieces to accomodate any type of waterfall or general mountaineering ice axes. Side compression straps that can allow you to securely carry your backcountry skis in an “A-frame” style carry. A large removable top lid with both internal and external pockets.
For comfort the Mammut Trion 38 has a “Motion V Frame” back panel that is lightly padded, breathable, and very form fitting. Unique to a pack this size, in my experience, are the running vest style shoulder straps. I appreciated how wide and distributive the shoulder straps are once I got them properly adjusted and loved the convenience of carrying my iPhone 13 ProMax in the stretchy shoulder strap pockets that I think are more often used by trail runners to carry small bottles of water or energy gels.
Summary
Overall I was impressed with the features, design, and quality of a backpack of this size that retails for less the $200. My only negative was I dislike all black backpacks, but fortunately this pack comes in a nice high visible orange and the brand recognizable white & black. It feels quite spacious at 38 liters and I think there is more then enough carrying capacity for 3-4 day backpacking trips. If you are in the market for a solid all around backpack that can handle a pretty wide array of adventures take a close look at this one. Mammut also has an outstanding warranty and repair program should your pack ever need some TLC!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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A media sample was provided by Mammut for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!
I’ve now had the Petzl Neox for about two weeks and have been able to form some opinions and test it in applications I’m most interested in. The most recent day I spent at the cliff with it was focused on seeing how it performed as a progress capture in an improvised hauling system and in a rope ascension system. Both these uses are important to me for assisting a seconding climber or rescuing an injured lead climber, and places where I would traditionally be using a Petzl GriGri. Here is some raw footage of this round of testing and some of my thoughts.
I assumed the Petzl Neox would work great for progress capture in this systems due to the spinning internal cog wheel and it definitely felt efficient in both the hauling scenario and the rope climbing scenario. I will be doing another round of comparisons with a more realistic full body weight load on the system but the fact the wheel still spun in my rope ascension test leads me to think it will still spin with a full load in a hauling system. This took me a little while to wrap my head around because you can seen when the device sees a full load while single strand rappelling the cam rotates, the wheel stops spinning, and you control your descent with the friction of the rope moving through the created bend. Why wouldn’t the wheel rotate and lock like that while using it as a progress capture?
The answer comes down to physics and while not having anything close to a degree in physics I can see how the device isn’t getting the full load in these scenarios. The full load is on the “tractor”, or friction hitch, or the Petzl Tibloc. When you go to pull slack through the Petzl Neox at that part of the cycle there is almost no weight on the device so the cam does not engage and the wheel spins freely reducing effort in hauling and ascending. When you relax during the hauling process all the load goes back to the Petzl Neox and the cam engages. Same with ascending, when you transfer your weight from your foot loop back to your harness the necessary threshold is exceeded and the cam engages. When you put your weight into your foot loop to progress the weight comes off the device and it is easier to pull the slack through the device then the Petzl GriGri.
Summary
It is still early in our broader exposure to this new belay device but the videos have been pouring out from influencers, highly certified guides, and rock star YouTuber’s. My opinion will likely evolve over the course of the summer as I put more days on the device, and expose more beginner climbers to it. For now I will re-iterate that I really like how easy it is to pull slack while belaying from above, and the more I think about it I do think this device may be in someways safer for a newer belayer as the instructions basically encourage you to not tough the device while paying out slack. This device may help prevent the holding open of the cam at risky moments which was likely part of the motivation of the anti-panic feature that came with the Petzl GriGri+.
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I am really excited to announce I’ve partnered with HowNot2.com and can now offer my followers a 10% discount on anything you purchase at hownot2.com and support what I am doing with discount code “NEAlpineStart” <- capitalization does not matter!
See you in the mountains!
I hope this information is helpful for your to make an informed decision. While Petzl supplied me with a Neox to review this is not a sponsored post. Affiliate links above help me continue to spend time creating these videos and posts and I thank you for your support!
Today I was able to get out to the cliff for a short bit to check out the newly released assisted blocking belay device, the Petzl Neox.
This is not a full in-depth review. It is a preliminary look at this new option in assisted blocking belay devices and I try to distinguish some of the obvious differences in the Petzl Neox, the Petzl GriGri, and the Petzl GriGri+. As time allows I will be diving more deeply into the topics I mention in the video. In the meantime please check out my initial thoughts and if you haven’t already please subscribe to the YouTube channel so I can keep sharing this type of content with all of you!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no addition cost to you. Thank you!
Earlier this year I received a sweet duffle bag and backpack from Free Range Equipment. This small brother & sister company with its roots in the Cascades has partnered with two dozen artists to create an assortment of visually stunning canvas packs. I received the Picket Range Duffel with art by Nikki Frumkin and the Dusk at Shuksan Pack with art by Gianna Andrews. I selected these two packs as I climbed Shuksan in 2017 as my first Cascade summit and during that same trip climbed Rainier and Forbidden Peak which isn’t too far from the Picket Range. I’ve wanted to get back to the Cascades for another climbing trip and the artwork on both these will keep reminding me I need to make a return trip soon!
I don’t usually review non-technical packs and these are designed more for travel and day-to-day type use, but I feel I’ve used them enough to share some opinions on them. The craftmanship of both is easily apparent even to the untrained eye. The canvas is thick and rugged, the zippers and stitch work are obviously high quality. The duffle is listed as 55 liters which makes it useful for for everything from a crag bag to regular travel luggage. A concealed backpack system is so concealed I didn’t even realize it was there until my second trip with the pack!
The smaller backpack is listed at 25 liters. It’s a perfect size for a gym or commuter bag and can easily hold my harness, climbing shoes, laptop, water and snacks for a trip to the local park, coffee shop, or climbing gym! It’s got a nice sized internal mesh pocket, a top pocket, etc, but there isn’t to much more for me to comment on with these packs, other than they are eye catching in the best way. I admit I’ve never been artistically talented but I love the style of both these artists and if you take a minute to look through all the offerings on the Free Range website you’ll likely find something that catches your eye.
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See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Media samples were provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you.
I’ve been testing the new Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody since early October and after a half dozen trips into the alpine with it I’m ready to share my thoughts.
TLDR Version: This is an outstanding addition to the “light puffy” market and I’m stoked to have this in my current rotation of outdoor clothes.
How I Tested: Two ice climbing trips to Mount Willard, an ice climbing trip into Tuckerman Ravine, two Mount Washington attempts (one successful summit, one bail at Lion Head due to very poor visibility and extreme winds higher)
Before I get into my personal opinions on this jacket let’s look at the manufacturer description and specifications:
Manufacturer Description:
The perfect layer for backcountry rock walls, big alpine faces, and frigid weekend ski tours, the Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody is the ultimate in dynamic four-season insulation that breathes efficiently and stretches with your every movement. The jacket packed with migration-resistant Primaloft Gold Active, maintaining breathability during even the most intense high-output pursuits. The 20D nylon ripstop face fabric and stretch liner resists weather and encourages full range of motion, while remaining incredibly durable through rugged talus, brushy approaches and daily use. Additional features include an adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood, a low-profile, single-adjust hem and a highly packable design that stuffs into the internal stretch mesh pocket and clips onto your harness, all your needs are covered. Fit and overall design has been entirely overhauled for 2023.
PRODUCT FEATURES
Migration-resistant PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation
20D nylon ripstop face fabric with PFC-free DWR Technology
Lightweight, stretch lining for added breathability
Mapped insulation throughout body, shoulders, and arms
Adjustable, climbing-helmet-compatible hood with drawcord adjustment
Underarm gussets for added range of motion
Low-profile, single-adjust hem
Stows in internal left hand pocket with carabiner clip loop
Two concealed-zip hand pockets
Primary fabric is Bluesign approved
ECO Label Status
Fit: Regular
Claimed Weight: 14.29 ounces
November 25th, 2023 early season ice mission into Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Washingon
Personal Opinions:
The “light puffy” has become a staple in my winter outdoor clothing scheme. My biggest requirements in a quality piece are; high warmth to weight ratio, high breathability, high packability, decent water resistance, wind proof, well fitting. The Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody checks all the boxes!
High Warmth to Weight Ratio: Black Diamond uses mapped PrimaLoft® Gold Active Insulation. Primaloft® Gold is one of the best synthetic insulators available with a CLO value of 0.92, which is roughly equivalent to the warmth of 500 or 550 fill-power down and achieves 98% thermal efficiency (and still retains heat if it gets wet, unlike down). The nylon shell fabric is lightweight and soft to the touch, allowing for the whole jacket to weight less than a pound. For a synthetic insulated hooded jacket this is quite impressive, so I give this a 5/5 in the warmth to weight ration category!
High Breathability: The biggest test of the breathability of this jacket came yesterday as I was breaking trail in thigh deep new snow from tree line to the summit cone on Mount Washington. Temps were 6 degrees Fahrenheit (-14 Celcius), winds were around 40 mph (64 Kph), and the wind chill was about -23 Fahrenheit (-30 Celcius). The uphill battle was slow going and a bit exhausting. I needed more than my base layers and soft shell jacket to stay comfortable but I was working pretty hard. I pulled this on over my soft shell and kept working uphill thinking I’d likely start to overheat soon and need to take it off. That didn’t happen and I reached the summit with it still on. So it is definitely breathable. I didn’t take it off until I was back to tree line and out of the wind for the quick walk back to the trailhead.
High Packability: While similar down jackets can pack smaller I prefer the extra insurance of synthetic for my light puffy jackets and only have one big down parka these days that is always in my pack for the most arctic of trips. Despite being a synthetic hooded jacket I am impressed with the Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody ability to get small. Without much coaching it will pack into it’s own zipper right side hand pocket at takes up just a little more space then your standard wide mouth Nalgene water bottle.
Decent Water Resistance: Black Diamond uses pretty standard PFC-free DWR Technology to give this jacket some water resistance. I was only exposed to a little dripping water on a warmish ascent of Hitchcock Gully earlier this year and as expected any drops that hit me just rolled off the fabric. Since it is a synthetic and not down I’m less concerned about how water resistant a light synthetic puffy is as I will still pack a hardshell if there is a significant chance of liquid precipitation on my trip.
Wind Proof: 100% this jacket is indeed windproof as I tested it in those 40+mph conditions I mentioned above. All I can really add here is I am impressed with how windproof the jacket seems while being so breathable at the same time. Must be the 20 denier fabric that Black Diamond used for the shell fabric, it just strikes the right balance in this regard.
Well Fitting: Ok I kind of saved the best for last here. I love the way this jacket fits and movies. Black Diamond says it’s a “regular” fit and while that means it isn’t supposed to fit like your tapered skinny jeans I don’t find the fit to be too bulky at all either. For my 5’9″ 185 pound frame the large fits over my skin layers and soft shell jacket perfectly. The length is perfect for tucking in under my climbing harness, and the stretchy panels under the arms keep in tucked in while I’m ice climbing and raising my hands far above my head often. The insulated hood is comfortable and well fitting with or without a climbing helmet on thanks to the drawcord adjustment. The fit is somehow technical while casual as I’ve found myself grabbing this jacket for everyday where and not just saving it for mountain missions.
Summary: The synthetic light weight hooded jacket is one of my favorite categories of gear to test. You can find many of my reviews of this style of jacket over the years on my review page. If your “light puffy” is ready for replacement or upgrade, or you have yet to add the “light puffy” to your outdoor wardrobe, I highly suggest you check the Black Diamond First Light Hooded Jacket out!
Affiliate links above help support this blog. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional charge to you. Thank you.
Every fall I do an inventory of my hand wear to be sure I’m ready for the upcoming backcountry touring, winter mountaineering, and waterfall ice climbing season. This year I figured I’d share my current collection and explain a bit about why I need 24 pairs of gloves/mittens. That’s right… 24 pairs!
Glove Liners– I wear glove liners on almost outdoor adventure. I make sure I have two pairs of serviceable glove liners year round. With all the sharp points related to ice climbing and mountaineering (and sharp ski edges) I expect to trash at least one pair of liners each year, so it’s good they are affordable! I was in need of a replacement pair this season so last week I picked up a pair of the Rab Merino 160 Glove Liners. This pair joins my Black Diamond Lightweight GridTech Liner Gloves and a pair of Ortovox 185 Rock’N’Wool Glove Liners to complete my glove liner inventory.
Technical Waterfall Ice Climbing Gloves– I prefer very dextrous perfectly fitting grippy gloves when leading waterfall ice. Handling ropes, placing ice screws, adjusting crampons… these tasks are more easily accomplished in specialized thin gloves. Currently I am rotating between the Outdoor Research Alibi 2 Gloves, the Black Diamond Torque Gloves, the RAB Infinium Axis Gloves, and the Ortovox Tour Light Gloves. To the surprise of many of my clients I actually wear one of the liners listed above under these snug fitting gloves. It improves the comfort especially with models like the Black Diamond Torque Gloves which can feel a little clammy without a liner.
Uphill Touring Gloves– For high output cold weather uphill skinning or hiking I prefer super breathable soft shell type gloves. My current favorite pair are the Camp USA G Comp Warm Gloves. What makes these so great is they have a built in insulated overmitt that is stored in a small pocket above the wrist. So they are super breathable and comfy on the up track and if you transition a little faster then the rest of your group you can hang out with the overmitts on to keep the tips of your fingers from going numb. I’m excited Ortovox has followed this design and I picked up a pair of Ortovox Tour Pro Cover Gloves for this season which join the couple pairs of Ortovox Tour Gloves I already have.
Downhill Touring Gloves– When it’s really cold and snowy out and you’re done burning calories on the ascent it’s time for the warm gloves to come out of the pack. I switch into these gloves for most descents, teaching avalanche courses about snowpack observations, practicing avalanche rescue skills, and occasionally snow blowing the driveway. I have two pairs of the surprisingly affordable Flylow Tough Guy Gloves. My fanciest pair of gloves are my Ortovox Merino Freeride Gloves. I also love the style and quality of the Wyoming based 4-Season Give’R Gloves. New to my inventory for this season is also a pair of the Ortovox Full Leather Gloves which fit and feel amazing!
Real Cold Ice Climbing & Mountaineering Gloves– For technical ice climbing and mountaineering on the coldest days I have two pairs of the Black Diamond Guide Gloves. As an emergency item and something I pack in my Search & Rescue pack I have some old thick fleece mittens and and old Goretex over mitts. I will likely update these with something like the Black Diamond Mercury Mitts soon. A stylish pair of toasty Give’R Leather Mittens rounds out my hand wear assortment.
Well that’s it for my current glove assortment. Do you have any of these? Any favorites of yours I should check out? Let me know in the comments!
“Isolated showers are expected to spread in around midday while temperatures for most elevations will remain above freezing, breezy” – from yesterday’s Mount Washington Observatory Higher Summits. Perfect for a follow up look of the updated Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody I recently received. I gave this piece a very detailed positive review back in 2016 and I’m happy to say that the original jacket is still in great condition despite 7 years of regular use!
Light rain and wind from neighboring Mount Washington arrives early afternoon and the Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody comes out…
Black Diamond upgraded the original material to a newer Schoeller Eco-Repel Bio® PFC-free DWR Technology which seemed to shed light rain longer then my original hoody. There’s more stretch in this material which not only allows more freedom of movement but when combined with the new drop hem around the bottom the jacket stays tucked under my harness while making long reaches.
DWR doing what DWR does…
This is one of the best ultralight active shell jackets there is! Weighing around 7 ounces there’s rarely a mission I don’t find it wise to toss this in the pack. While it is a highly water resistent windbreaker I find it even more flexible with my layering system. For example, in summer this has doubled as a sun hoody on hot day as mentioned in my 2016 review. It’s more than enough breathable for higher output activities like mountain biking. For multi-pitch traditional rock climbing this clips to the back of my harness for those mid-climb unexpected changes in weather. As it gets colder it fits well over my Merino wool hoodies. In very cold weather while backcountry touring it is a perfect wind shell piece that fits well under any of my light puffy jackets. For such a quality versatile piece I can’t think of who wouldn’t find a spot for this in their active outdoor clothing system!
I’ve now had a couple months to test the new Salewa Ortles Guide 35 Backpack and I’m ready to publish my review!
TLDR Version: The Salewa Ortles Guide 35 Backpack is a rugged lightweight technical backpack that is an excellent pick for general mountaineering, waterfall ice climbing, and ski mountaineering.
How I Tested:
I’ve taken this pack on a half dozen trips so far. Two general winter mountaineering trips up Mount Washington, a few waterfall ice climbing trips, and on one ski mountaineering objective.
What I Really Liked:
Hard to pick my favorite feature as there are a few of them. Let’s start with the roll top closure and removable “brain”. Around the rim of the roll top Salewa added a stiffener that reminds me of those wrist snap bracelets from yonder years. This stiffener creates a great seal that makes rolling the top of the pack down easy and makes a great seal to keep snow out of the pack in inclement weather. A magnetic “over the roll” strap helps secure climbing ropes and slim the profile of the pack if I’ve decided to remove the “brain” for a more streamlined climbing pack.
Both of the two external zippers on the pack are the high end waterproof zippers I prefer, the Salewa does not claim the pack to be waterproof I found it to be one of the more “snowing hard out”-proof bags I’ve tested. The horizontal zipper near the top accesses a pocket that was big enough to carry my avalanche shovel and probe on a recent ski mountaineering mission. The diagonal side zipper gives the user another access point to reach their water bottle without having to go through the roll-top access point.
The backpack features reinforced side carry loops for A-framing your skis. The upper compression straps have a nice “separator” straps for securing any type of ice axe from mixed climbing tools to general mountaineering axes.
The “Dry-Back” back panel and molded shoulder straps felt awesome for both carrying heavier loads while ski mountaineering or while climbing vertical frozen waterfalls.
I found the 35 liters to be generous and was easily able to pack my for guide kit for a technical day of ski mountaineering (post coming soon to show that gear list).
Salewa is definitely a safety orientated company at the sternum strap whistle is the best quality I have seen for a sternum strap whistle. Beneath the removable lip is also information relating to the “Alpine Emergency Signal” which includes a diagram showing how to put an injured person into the “recovery position” and the numbers for contact emergency services in Europe and US & Canada, along with SOS morse code instructions.
Finally, I love the color. I’m a huge fan of bright colors in backpacks from both a Search & Rescue perspective and a general preference.
What Could Be Improved:
There is not too much here I would change but a few things did come to mind while testing the pack. Probably the biggest is the reinforced lower compression straps do not have releasable buckles. So if carrying a rope coiled in a single strand butterfly coil (quite common these days) you’ll need to “tuck” the rope into the ski carry loops if you want the rope fastened securely. A minor issue for sure but I do like packs where all four side compression straps can be opened.
While this pack was designed and marketed toward “ski mountaineering” vs. backcountry touring the avalanche tool pocket could use one small drain hole towards the bottom. It was also a bit tight for my super light carbon avalanche probe and shovel (what I carry on more technical tours vs. general backcountry skiing. My larger shovel and probe may not have fit in this pocket.
Summary/Who Is This For?
In summary this is a very well designed backpack made by a great company. I had way more great things to say about the pack then the couple of small nitpicks I mentioned. Who should consider purchasing this backpack? This backpack is best designed for an ice climber who occasionally goes touring or a winter above tree-line type hiker. I did not rig snowshoes to the outside of the pack but it shouldn’t be hard with a couple straps to easily fasten them to the outside. So if you are into ice climbing, winter hiking, and maybe do a little backcountry touring on the side, maybe this could be the backpack for you! You can find it in the US at these retailers:
