For this review I asked my friend and colleague Dominic Torro to take this Hyperlite Mountain Gear Crux 40 Backpack and run it through the ringer. Over the last year he has tested it across the Beartooth Mountains (MT), Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, 14,000-15,000 foot peaks in Chile, ice climbing, and winter ski mountaineering!
All thoughts and images are courtesy of Dominic. Enjoy!
Overview
The Hyperlite Crux 40 is a lightweight, winter-specific alpine pack built for ski mountaineering, ice climbing, and technical mountain travel. After extended use across a wide range of environments and conditions, it has proven to be comfortable, durable, and thoughtfully designed—though not without a few notable limitations.
Carry & Fit
The Crux 40 carries extremely well and conforms closely to the natural curvature of the spine. Even with heavier winter loads, the pack remains stable and comfortable over long days in technical terrain. For a 40-liter pack, usable volume is excellent, especially when run without the top lid.
External Features
Mesh Shove-It Pocket
The external mesh pocket is one of the standout features of the pack. It’s ideal for quickly stashing layers, gloves, or other frequently accessed items while on the move.
Ski Carry
The A-frame ski carry system works reliably and has performed well in real-world use. A diagonal ski carry option exists but feels secondary and would benefit from further refinement or inclusion as a standard feature.
Rear Entry
Rear-panel access is useful in winter conditions and allows for quick access to gear without fully unpacking the bag. That said, the opening could be slightly larger to improve usability.
Ice Axe Carry System
The ice axe carry system was designed very well with two clips securing the axe heads and a bungee to secure the handle/shaft.
Top Lid (Brain)
The removable top lid is the weakest element of the pack’s design. When the pack is not fully stuffed, the brain does not remain securely attached—even when the straps are fully cinched. On shorter ski missions, the lid has unclipped and fallen off while skiing. As a result, the pack is most often used without the brain, relying instead on the roll-top closure.
Internal Organization & Avalanche Tools
The internal avalanche-tool pockets function well overall and provide efficient, organized access. However, the shovel pocket can interfere with loading a helmet into the top of the main compartment, reducing flexibility in gear configuration.
Durability & Weather Resistance
Durability aligns with expectations from Hyperlite Mountain Gear. The materials are highly abrasion-resistant and effectively waterproof in most conditions. One limitation is the bottom panel: if the pack is left sitting on snow or wet ground for extended periods, moisture can slowly soak through and affect items packed low in the bag, such as insulated layers.
Additional Design Notes
A hydration-port opening is included at the top of the pack. For a winter-focused design, this feature feels unnecessary and can allow snow intrusion when the pack is used in roll-top mode. Perhaps it is meant for an external radio mic like the ones available on Rocky Talkies. The hip belt pocket sits a little too far back, making it difficult to reach without removing the pack. A more forward placement and increased depth would improve accessibility.
Bottom Line
The Hyperlite Mountain Gear Crux 40 Backpack is a capable and well-executed alpine pack with excellent carry comfort, durability, and functional external storage. While the core design is strong, improvements to the top lid security, hip belt pocket placement, avalanche-tool layout, and diagonal ski carry would meaningfully enhance performance. EDITORS NOTE: An optional Diagonal Ski Carry Kit exists but is currently out of stock. It is best suited for users who prefer running the pack without the top lid and want a clean, technical winter platform.
About the Author
Dominic Torro is a backcountry skier and ski mountaineer who grew up in New Hampshire. He has skied across the western United States and internationally, pursuing big-mountain objectives. Dominic is a guide and instructor with Redline Guiding in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, as well as in Vermont and Maine.
Gallery
Disclaimer: A media sample was provided for purpose of review. All opinions are that of the author. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of these links the owner of this website earns a small commission at not addition cost to you. Thank you!
Proper hydration is fundamental to safety and performance in the outdoors. Whether you’re hiking, climbing, or conducting a Search and Rescue (SAR) mission, fluid balance directly impacts your endurance, decision-making, and recovery.
According to the U.S. National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine, the recommended daily fluid intake is:
Men: approximately 15.5 cups (3.7 liters / 124 ounces)
Women: approximately 11.5 cups (2.7 liters / 92 ounces)
During moderate physical activity—such as hiking—you’ll need an additional 0.5 to 1 liter (16–32 ounces) of water per hour to maintain hydration. For a six-hour hike, that means 3 to 6 liters (100–200 ounces) of water.
For Search and Rescue personnel, physical demands are often greater, especially when carrying a litter or heavy gear. In these situations, water needs can increase even further. However, carrying more than 3 liters is often impractical, so season-specific strategies become essential.
The Sawyer Mini is compact, lightweight, and compatible with most standard threaded 1/4″ water bottles—ideal for both outdoor recreation and Everyday Carry (EDC) setups. This system provides flexibility and ensures I always have access to safe drinking water, even on extended operations.
Fall and Winter Hydration Strategy
Cold-weather hydration presents unique challenges. Even insulated hydration bladders are prone to freezing in the tubing and mouthpiece, which can quickly cut off your water supply. After experiencing this issue firsthand, I now avoid hydration bladders entirely in below-freezing temperatures.
This setup ensures reliable access to water in any conditions and allows for hot meals or morale-boosting drinks, which are invaluable in cold or high-stress environments.
Hydration and Nutritional Supplements
Maintaining hydration isn’t just about water—it’s also about electrolyte balance and nutritional support.
Throughout the year, I carry Tailwind Nutrition hydration supplements to replenish electrolytes and sustain energy. During cold-weather operations, I add Borvo Broth, which provides warmth, electrolytes, and an energy boost when fatigue or chill set in.
Both products have strong scientific backing, but more importantly, they have proven effective in real-world SAR and backcountry conditions.
Best Practices for Outdoor Hydration
To optimize hydration in the field:
Plan ahead. Estimate water needs based on duration, intensity, and temperature.
Adapt seasonally. Choose hydration systems and strategies suited to current conditions.
Use filtration. Carry a compact, reliable water filter for resupply in the field.
Monitor intake. Thirst is a late indicator—drink regularly to maintain performance.
Supplement smartly. Include electrolytes or nutrient-rich drinks to sustain energy and prevent cramps.
Conclusion
Water is life—and in the outdoors, hydration is performance. Whether you’re a recreational hiker or a professional Search and Rescue operator, having a thoughtful, adaptable hydration plan is critical for success and safety.
By tailoring your strategy to the environment and equipping yourself with the right tools, you can stay hydrated, alert, and mission-ready in any conditions.
Stay safe, stay hydrated, and I’ll see you in the mountains. — Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!
Every outdoor adventure gear list includes a first aid kit. However, possessing first aid supplies is far less important than having some level of first aid knowledge. Most search and rescue organizations either require or highly encourage their members to obtain a Wilderness First Aid (WFA) certification. Those seeking greater confidence in their ability to treat common injuries and illnesses in the backcountry should aim for a Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certification. Advanced SAR teams may also include Wilderness EMTs or AEMTs, along with ER nurses or physicians.
These courses are offered by a few organizations all over the country. If you are located in the Northeastern US I highly recommend taking one of these courses at SOLO in Conway, New Hampshire. Not only does SOLO have some of the best instructors in the outdoor emergency treatment field their campus, classrooms, and “Toad Hall” lodging have a very warm and welcoming vibe.
Image from soloschools.com
Patient care is generally the responsibility of the highest-trained team member present. But everyone starts with little or no training, and progresses from there. Before purchasing or assembling a first aid kit, I strongly recommend obtaining proper training. Not only does training clarify what should be in your kit, but it also prepares you for real emergencies. Fortunately, there are many avenues for affordable or even free first aid training options.
In the outdoor and rescue communities, CPR certification from the American Red Cross or the American Heart Association is emphasized. While CPR is often included in WFA or Wilderness First Responder courses, it can also be taken as a standalone course. That said, I believe practicing bleeding control should be prioritized more highly. In outdoor settings—and even during everyday life—the likelihood of encountering a medical emergency requiring effective bleeding management far exceeds the need for CPR skills. Car accidents, workplace incidents, household mishaps, and firearm-related injuries all demand swift, decisive action to improve outcomes.
To that end, I highly recommend completing the free online Stop The Bleed course offered by the American College of Surgeons. It takes less than an hour, and while online-only training lacks hands-on practice, the knowledge gained provides a solid foundation. After completing this program or an equivalent, the next step is to add a quality tourniquet to your everyday carry (EDC). A tourniquet is your best chance at stopping life-threatening bleeding before the patient can reach advanced medical care. Keep one in each vehicle, as car accidents frequently cause injuries requiring tourniquet application. If you work with firearms—whether in law enforcement, hunting, or self-defense—it’s wise to carry a tourniquet on your person at all times.
Be cautious of cheap tourniquets sold on Amazon; I’ve heard too many stories of handles breaking during application. I recommend the CAT Gen 7 Tourniquet by North American Rescue, which I keep in my range bag, vehicles, rescue pack, and emergency sling pack. I also carry the RATS Tourniquet, especially useful for small children, as it reportedly performs better on them.
Once you’ve completed the Stop The Bleed course, explore other free online first aid trainings through a simple Google search. Ideally, you’ll find time to attend in-person Wilderness First Aid or Wilderness First Responder courses, which offer invaluable hands-on experience and help you fine-tune your kit. While some prefer to assemble their first aid kits from scratch for cost savings, I recommend starting with a high-quality commercial kit and supplementing it with additional supplies. Two reputable brands I’ve used are Adventure Medical Kits and My Medic.
You can also learn by following some medical related Instagram/YouTube channels. I recommend following North American Rescue and Medical Talks on Instagram. <- Graphic Sensitive Content Warning! Both these account show graphic injuries quite often.
Summary: While a small first aid kit suffices for recreational hikes, SAR team members often respond to injuries or accidents requiring more advanced supplies and skills. As such, your kit should be more comprehensive than a typical hiking first aid kit. I hope this guidance helps you acquire the training and equipment necessary to treat minor injuries effectively and, in critical situations, potentially save a life.**
Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue
Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:
While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.
Comments? Questions?
Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to first aid kits or training or my suggestions.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: The author is not a doctor and this post is not intended to provide medical advice. The opinions above come from the author’s experience as a Wilderness First Responder and Search & Rescue Team member. Seek proper instruction from qualified trainers. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of these links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!
In my last post I shared my opinions on why carrying a physical mirrored compass while hiking is still relevant. Physical compasses are important in both outdoor recreation and professional SAR despite modern smartphone technology. In this post will show my preference for digital mapping over physical maps.
There are some disclaimers and caveats to get out of the way here. Relying on only a cell phone app with no foundation of true navigational skills with traditional map & compass is really a gamble. At some point your cell phone battery will die. It will be too cold for your cell phone to function. You’ll drop your phone in a raging current or deep powder snow and have to go without. I’ll say it one more time…
DO NOT rely on smartphone navigation as your ONLY source of navigation.
But can it be your primary source of navigation? Heck yeah! It’s been 10 years since I wrote this article, Should you use a Smartphone for Wilderness Navigation? in which I make a strong case for the use of smartphone apps for navigation.
Ten years later I still stand behind my arguments in this opinion piece. Even better smartphone batteries have made large advancements in how much juice they can store. Digital displays have improved in resolution, brightness, and color. When I first wrote that piece I was using the iPhone 6 model! Today my iPhone 13 Pro is my main digital navigation tool with some apps I will get into below.
I still do not own a stand alone GPS unit. However, they still have a place in the outdoor recreation and rescue industry. They have a few advantages of smartphone GPS apps for navigation.
Much more durable. Quality handheld GPS units are typically waterproof to at least 30 feet. They can withstand significant impacts that would destroy a smartphone.
Much longer battery life. Most models can run full tracking for over 150 hours without being recharged.
The best models can double as a two-way satellite communication device. This point is less important if your smartphone has satellite communication ability as well.
I would invest in a standalone GPS device if I often embarked on extended trips (a week or longer). This device would serve as a backup communication device in remote parts of the world. After looking at the current market of these devices, I would lean toward the Garmin GPSMap67i. It is a well-reviewed high-end choice in the field of GPS navigation devices with satellite communication feature.
You can rely on your smartphone for navigation like I do. You can find success if you follow a few key tenets. Here are my 8 commandments.
Thou shalt use a proper mapping navigation app (NOT AllTrails).
Thou shall pre-download maps and topographical data while connected to a WIFI or Data network. Do this before leaving civilization.
Thou shall start the hike with a smartphone charged to 100% when you leave the trail head
Thou shall close all unneeded apps. Turn off WiFi and Bluetooth manually. Turn on Airplane Mode. Turn down screen brightness to the lowest usable level.
Thou shall keep your smartphone warm.
Thou shall carry battery backup on extended trips.
Thou shall use Bluetooth headphones if one must listen to music
Thou shall still be capable of navigating should thou smartphone unexpectedly stop working
For more than ten years I’ve been using CalTopo.com on my laptop to create custom maps for both recreational hiking, guiding, and search and rescue missions. I then download the created geospatial PDF’s into the free Avenza app for off-grid use in the field. CalTopo does have an excellent app that you can use. However, I still find it more efficient to create the detailed maps I want on a laptop or desktop platform. It is easier than doing it on a smartphone app.
Geospatial PDF created on CalTopo.com of a fictional Search & Rescue Mission
One of the coolest newer features of the CalTopo software is the ability for SAR teams to enable live tracking. Any group who purchases a “Teams” account can do this for everyone on the team. This feature can allow team members and rescue commanders to see real time locations of members of the search team. Members must be connected to the network by either cellular data. Alternatively, they can link a GPS device like the Garmin inReach Mini 2. This is a powerful tool that rescue commanders can use to track dozens of search teams over large geographic areas!
Image from CalTopo.com
Other apps worth looking at are MilGPS, Gaia GPS, PeakFinder, and Theodolite. I will do a more detailed breakdown of these apps in a future post.
MilGPS app
MilGPS app
Smartphone apps are complex. They could be using a lot of power in the background. The safe bet is just to close all apps you are not using. I pretty much only have Avenza/CalTopo, Strava, and the Camera app occasionally running during my trips.
Peak Finder app
While Airplane mode should turn off WiFi and Bluetooth, these can both be turned back on while in Airplane mode. I think it is best to turn them both off individually. This way, if you come out of Airplane mode to make an emergency call, you don’t accidentally leave WiFi on. You don’t accidentally leave Bluetooth running. This also applies to an “I’m running late” call when you don’t need those connections.
Screen brightness probably has a smaller effect on battery life but every bit can help.
Cold can drain cell phone batteries even if the phone is powered down. Do not carry your smartphone in the top pocket of your backpack in cold conditions. I prefer a hip pocket or chest pocket for winter conditions.
If I’m expected to be out for more than 48 hours, I will pack a backup charger. I prefer options like the Anker Portable 325 PowerBank. There are dozens of other options out there but I would look for store at least 20000mAh of juice!
If you need to listen to music or podcasts while hiking, Bluetooth headphones are a great choice. They will save your phone a lot of battery. This is especially true compared to using the smartphone’s external speakers. The same applies if you’re sleeping in a tent during windy conditions or in a crowded, snoring bunkhouse.
Having a backup paper map is easy insurance against a smartphone failure. I will be honest and say I do not always carry a paper back up with me. I justify this by being very diligent with conserving my battery life. I keep my phone warm in cold environments. I also keep it secure in either a zippered pocket. In a more vertical environment, I tether it to my body with a retractable lanyard.
If you have access to a quality color printer you can print very detailed custom maps directly from CalTopo. If I have the time, I often send the Geospatial PDF’s I’ve created to the local UPS Store. Sometimes, I send them to Staples for laminated color copies. For a SAR mission that is likely short, I rarely carry a detailed paper map. These missions usually conclude in less than 24 hours. I will have the regional AMC White Mountain National Forest Maps for the area I will be in. This way, I can perform resection from any vantage points along my route. I will do this if my digital tools are failing.
Get Skilled
There are some great, and not so great, books on navigation you can learn from. A couple of my favorites:
If you would like to work with me directly, I have a custom 8-hour Wilderness Navigation Course. This course covers everything from Survival/Improvised Navigation to creating detailed “White-Out” navigation plans. It also includes using modern smartphone apps. It’s a couple hours of morning classroom followed by real life field practice of all skills. Reach out if you’d like to learn more!
Summary
This topic is slightly controversial. Almost any hiking authority will urge you to carry a paper map at all times. I’m not arguing against that. From a search and rescue team member’s experience, I think back on the dozens of missions I’ve been involved in. I struggle to recall pulling out my paper map at any point during a search. I always have very detailed pre-downloaded topographic data in a smartphone. I carefully conserve power and keep a backup. This combination has always gotten me to my next checkpoint. I continue practicing following a compass bearing through thick woods to a target. I do this because I want that skill to stay sharp and support the existing technology I’ve decided to embrace. I hope sharing this mindset with you encourages you to evaluate your own capabilities.
Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue
Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:
While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.
Comments? Questions?
Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to digital navigation, maps, or my suggestions. Let me know what your favorite mapping app is! Do you feel competent with digital mapping navigation?
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting on of these links the author earns a small commission on no additional cost to you. Thank you!
With over twenty years of service on multiple Search and Rescue teams in the White Mountains of New Hampshire I’ve had plenty of time to dial in what I carry on missions. My rescue pack is different from my typical guiding pack in a couple ways.
First, I carry more tools for off trail navigation than what I pack for guiding trade routes that I have traveled hundreds of times.
Second, I carry the gear I need to comfortably spend a night out in the woods if need be. In this series I’m going to break down every item in my pack and go into detail about each item, its purpose, and make brand and model recommendations for each piece.
Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass
Despite my affinity for digital GPS navigation I do still carry a quality liquid filled magnetic compass. My requirements for a compass are accuracy, durability, and dependability. For over two decades I’ve relied on the Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass.
This compass checks all my boxes.
Accurate?
The manufacturer claimed accuracy is to 2 degrees and the resolution is also 2 degrees. With the sighting mirror and dual elevation sight-notches I can take very precise bearings in the field. The full length compass when opened supports accurate single point and dual point resection. In practice I’ve covered a few miles of off trail travel, both dense forest areas and barren alpine zones, and found my objective every time with this compass.
Durable?
In twenty years I’ve never broken on of these compasses. They are rugged. I’ve only replaced it once when it went missing during one of the avalanche courses I was teaching. I’m pretty sure a student accidentally took it home after a field session. Speaking of avalanche safety this compass has a built in clinometer which measures slope angle.
Not only is this ability crucial for avalanche safety but it’s helpful with navigation as well. If you’re trying to determine if a nearby peak is higher or lower than your current location a clinometer can accurately answer that for you.
(The back arrow above indicates a 35 degree slope along the top or bottom edge of the clear base plate)
Dependable?
One of the biggest reasons I still carry a physical mirrored compass is because of how often I work in cold weather conditions. Smartphones are very susceptible to the kind of temperature I both recreate in, and serve in when on a SAR mission. Even keeping my iPhone warm in an inner chest pocket I have seen the screen stop working in mere seconds when exposed to below freezing temperatures. I have used my mirrored compass during above tree-line searches in sub-zero temperatures. Suunto claims the liquid used will not freeze until -30° C / -22° F.
For occasional recreational use this compass may be a bit more than you need. For light recreational use I recommend my students purchase a model like the Suunto A-10 NH Compass or better if their budget can afford it.
The Suunto M-3 NH Compass is a good mid-range choice. For professional level use for someone who plans to spend a fair amount of time traveling off the beaten paths I highly recommend the added accuracy of a mirrored compass.
I’ve always found success with Suunto compasses but I have a friend and colleague who teaches Wilderness Survival and Wilderness First Responder Courses and he is a big fan of Brunton, so with his trusted endorsement I am including that brand as well below with some general comments on each high end model.
Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass – If you travel internationally this is the model to get as the patented global needle will work anywhere in the world.
Suunto MC-2 NH Mirrored Compass – If your adventures are contained to the Northern Hemisphere this is the model for you. Took me a hot minute to figure out that “NH” didn’t stand for my beloved state of New Hampshire, but for “Northern Hemisphere”. The needle is designed to float freely anywhere north of the Equator.
Brunton Truarc15 Luminescent Compass– My colleague, who probably spends more time then most traveling through the woods in the dark, is a fan of this compass. It certainly looks to me to be a very solid choice for a professional level compass.
Summary
While this series will likely cover the rest of the “ten essentials” soon I purposely started with the compass before the map. If I had to pick between navigating with only a compass or a map, I would choose a compass. While my improvised/survival navigation skills are quite sharp, a compass lets me follow a very specific bearing into trail-less wilderness in darkness or fog for a few miles, and return back my starting point often within a few dozen feet. This type of competent navigation is only gained through dedicated practice in the field and would be impossible with just a map and no compass.
Get Skilled
If terms like “declination” and “resection” are not familiar to you I would highly suggest seeking out a quality course in Wilderness Navigation. There are many options from free clinics offered by hiking clubs to high level courses. I actually developed my own 8 hour course after not finding a course anywhere that offered the type of classroom/field session lessons I think are effective. Feel free to reach out if you’d like to book a Wilderness Navigation Course with me! I also have a small selection of YouTube videos covering some compass topics you can check out here!
Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue
Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:
While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.
Comments? Questions?
Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to compasses or my suggestions. Let me know what your favorite compass model is! Do you feel competent with compass navigation? Have you practiced recently?
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to the reader. Thank you!
If a suitable ledge for stacking the climbing rope is not available, coil the rope over your anchor attachment. For maximum efficiency your coils should either start longer and end short, or start short and end long (never the same size coils!).
Choosing the right choice depends on who is leading the next pitch. If your partner is leading the next pitch you want to start with long coils progressively getting smaller. That way, when they start to lead, the smaller coils on top should feed off smoothly. This prevents looping under a longer coil, which creates tangles.
If you are leading the next pitch you should start with smaller coils progressively getting bigger. Then, after your partner tethers to the anchor, you can carefully “flip” the whole lap coil over onto their tether. The smaller coils (your end of the rope) should now be on top of the lap coil. They should feed off smoothly.
It takes some practice to do this neatly to avoid tangles. When done correctly the climbing party will lose very little time at the belay transition. If the lap coils are not tidy, re-stack or recoil the rope. This ensures the leader end will feed smoothly during the next pitch.
Have you been doing this?
Ever have a rope coil mess that you just toss down the cliff below you hoping for the best?
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Disclaimer: The Reepschnur Rappel is an advanced climbing technique. Like all technical climbing techniques, misunderstanding or misapplication can lead to serious bodily injury or death. Seek qualified in-person instruction on this technique from an AMGA certified guide or a seasoned and vetted mentor. You take all responsibility in attempting any climbing technique you learn from the internet.
Last week my partner Foster and I found ourselves at the top of the second pitch of the classic Wanderlust route on Humprey’s Ledge, North Conway NH. We were climbing with a single 70 meter Mammut Alpine Dry Climbing Rope.
Comments on Mountain Project indicated a 70m double rappel would just barely reach the ground. I chose instead to conduct a Reepschur Rappel. I had read about this technique in a couple of different climbing texts. I felt it would be a good choice for the situation we were in. In fact if you are not sure your ropes will reach the next anchor or the ground this is a great method to understand.
To begin, I tethered into the anchor. This allowed me to untie from my rope end. Then I fed a little more than half the rope through the fixed anchor rings. I then lowered Foster directly from the anchor with a Munter hitch and a third hand friction hitch backup. There are many ways you could lower your partner like a redirected plate. The advantage of lowering your partner is clear. You can measure accurately how far you need to go to reach the next anchor. In our case, it meant reaching the ground. The middle mark of the rope passed through my lowering system. It traveled about 20 feet down the cliff. Then Foster reached the ground.
At this point, I tied an overhand on a bight on the brake side of the lowering system. I then clipped it with a locking carabiner to the strand I had lowered Foster on. This essentially creates what some folks call a “GriGri Rappel.” You can now conduct a single strand rappel on this strand with any appropriate device. A blocked “GriGri rappel” is pretty simple. The challenge is how to recover your rope when the “pull” side does not reach the ground.
The solution here is pretty simple. When you reach the end of the “pull” side of the rope, attach enough material to it. This way, you can finish your rappel and still have a connection to the pull side for rope recovery. What you attach to this side can be anything. You could untie a 20 foot cordelette. This is especially true if your joining knot is a Flat Overhand Bend. You could chain all of your quick-draws together. You could literally use shoelaces if you needed to. Use whatever you need to finish your single strand blocked rappel and still have a connection to the “pull” side. Once you are secure, either at the next anchor or the ground, you can pull your chain of connection. This will allow you to recover your rope.
This technique really opens up the potential of climbing with “pull cords” which can be insanely light and pack-able. The Petzl Purline is an industry favorite. It is ideal if the climbing party only wants to carry one fully rated dynamic climbing rope. Climbers can still conduct full rope length rappels.
Dangers!
If you unintentionally install your device on the pull side of this blocked rappel it would end in tragedy. Be paranoid of this error and don’t make it!
If your rope gets stuck while pulling your pull cord, you likely won’t have any rated climbing rope. This means that you can’t “lead back up.” You can’t fix the problem like you would in a more traditional double rope rappel system.
Skinny pull cords can be hard to grasp and pull especially if there is a lot of friction above. I fondly remember trying to rappel with a pull cord. It was 60 meters of 5mm accessory cord on Cathedral Ledge. This was almost two decades ago. We read about the technique in “Climbing Magazine.” In moderate winds, our pull cord wrapped itself around our main climbing line dozens of times. We got down with only mild hypothermia. We had to build an improvised 9:1 haul system to actually pull the rope down.
With those considerations and warnings in mind the Reepschnur rappel likely deserves more awareness in the recreational climber’s repertoire. Like many advanced climbing techniques, we usually learn about them directly from a certified climbing guide. Alternatively, books like the Mountain Guide Manual, published with advanced users in mind also give this information. This post aims to introduce this valuable technique to a broader audience. I sincerely hope that the audience heeds the warnings of nuanced application.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of these links the author earns a small commission on no additional cost to you. Thank you!
The Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch are the two biggest additions to the growing market of Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs). Many of you might be wondering which device is the right one for you.
In this video, I will show the key differences between each device. This will help you make an informed decision on which device is best for you. This is not an in-depth review of either device. More in-depth reviews of each device will be linked below in the description as they are published. Below the video is a transcript with greater detail than what I had time to convey in the video. Feel free to skip to any section you would like more information on!
COST
To start our comparison let’s look at retail cost. The manufacturer suggested retail price of the Petzl Neox is $149.95 USD ($€29 Euros) and the Edelrid Pinch is $119.95 USD (€99.95). The difference of $30 USD is not insignificant. The Petzl Neox must be paired with a locking carabiner to function. In contrast, the Edelrid Pinch can be used without a locking carabiner. For comparison the recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner is $18.95 USD.
WEIGHT
Next let’s look at the difference in weight. The Petzl Neox claimed weight is 235 grams. The Edelrid Pinch claimed weight is 234 grams. That’s only 1 gram difference so even Steven right? Well not quite. You see the Edelrid Pinch is designed to be usable without a locking carabiner. It has a secure locking attachment point. You can connect it to any belay loop or master point that is a minimum of 10mm in width. I’ve seen some guides on social media adding a locking carabiner as a sort of “double” lock on the setup. While there isn’t really anything wrong with being “extra” safe, I haven’t seen any reason for concern. This is true when the device is installed properly without using an extra locking carabiner. So, for comparison reasons, the Edelrid Pinch is one locking carabiner lighter. This makes it lighter than a usable Petzl Neox. The recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner weighs 46 grams for comparison.
SIZE
Size wise they are pretty similar. The Petzl Neox is about 4 ¼ inches (10.76 cm) long and 2 ½ inches (6.35 cm) wide and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The Edelrid Pinch is 5 ½ inches (14 cm) long and 2 ¾ inches (7 cm) and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The difference in dimensions is quite minimal. However, you could factor in the additional size of a locking carabiner for the Petzl Neox to function. This may not matter much from a pack-ability standpoint. We will discuss later how having the Edelrid Pinch connected directly to your harness belay loop might be more efficient. It could also be attached to the anchor master point during belays for added efficiency.
ROPE SIZE
The Petzl Neox is approved to be used with single rated climbing ropes between 8.5 and 11 millimeters. The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used with single rated dynamic ropes between 8.5 and 10.5 millimeters and static ropes between 10 to 10.5 millimeters. I haven’t climbed on a single rated rope thicker than 10.5 millimeters in a couple of decades so I don’t think this difference is very notable. It is interesting that the usable threshold for static rope is mentioned to be smaller. I’m not sure exactly why that is. This answer probably is not very relevant to most potential users. Most static ropes likely fall within the 10 to 10.5 millimeter range.
LEAD BELAY FUNCTION
There are some pretty noticeable differences when belaying a leader with the Edelrid Pinch versus the Petzl Neox.
First, the real stand out feature of the Petzl Neox is the smoothness of adding slack quickly to the system. The intuitiveness is also exceptional. The spinning wheel inside the housing simplifies keeping up with a quickly moving climber. This is true even when they make a big reach clip. With the Petzl Neox, it is less likely that a belayer will accidentally “short rope” a lead climber. It is also less likely that the device will unintentionally lock up while trying to add slack to the system.
Second, there is no need for a special hand position when feeding slack with the Petzl Neox. This means the device is easily mastered by anyone who can belay well with a standard tube style belay device.
Lead belaying with the Edelrid Pinch feels much more similar to belaying with a Petzl GriGri. Many seasoned climbers are quite familiar with this. The cam can engage when quickly paying out slack. Make sure to use care. The technical details and instructions illustrate a “quick slack” grip method. An advantage of the Edelrid Pinch is its versatility. You can perform the quick slack method whether you are right handed or left handed. This method takes a little practice to do well but isn’t hard to master with some time. The Petzl Neox essentially has a slightly faster learning curve in the hands of a new belayer.
Finally, one notable difference here is the Edelrid Pinch can be connected directly to your belay loop. You do not need a locking carabiner. This keeps the device about 4 inches (10 cm) to your body. This means you can pay out a little more rope with each arm motion. I need to spend more time belaying lead climbers with both of these devices. This will help me decide if this difference is truly noteworthy.
DIRECT ANCHOR BELAY FUNCTION
Both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch can belay a second directly off an anchor. This applies in either a single pitch or multi-pitch setting. There are some differences between the two devices to discuss here.
First, taking slack in with the Petzl Neox is extremely easy thanks to the spinning wheel in the housing. When using a hand on both the load and belay line, the rope pulls through the device like a high efficiency pulley. There is very little noticeable friction. This is a blessing for anyone with a bit of elbow tendinitis. Also with the Petzl Neox rope diameter really doesn’t change the amount of effort pulling slack through the device requires.
The Edelrid Pinch feels quite similar in effort to pulling slack with a Petzl GriGri. Thinner ropes will pull easier than thicker ropes.
They cam almost instantly when presented with a load. This is true, for example, when a seconding climber falls. A brake hand must be properly on the rope to provide some resistance on the other side of the device. There have been some dramatic social media videos shared that how the Petzl Neox will not cam for quite some time in the event of a missing brake hand.
Perhaps the Edelrid Pinch will make some climbers feel a little more secure. It does seem to cam more quickly when a brake hand is absent. However, both devices clearly state in their instructions that a brake hand MUST be present. It must be in the correct position to provide resistance on the brake strand side of the device. Neither of these devices are considered “hands free” in any mode of use!
FIXED POINT BELAY OF LEAD CLIMBER!
The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used in a Fixed Point Belay orientation. This technique of belaying a leader offers advantages in certain situations. It is the first device I know of that the manufacturer actually approves for this use. I will likely experiment more with this option this winter while testing the Edelrid Pinch ice climbing.
LOWERING DIRECTLY FROM ANCHOR
Both devices are capable of lowering smoothly directly from the anchor. Likely the biggest difference here is the Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” feature. This feature is very similar to what Petzl introduced when they released the Petzl GriGri+. By design, if the release lever is pulled too far when lowering, the cam will re-engage. This can happen when lowering from top-rope or directly from the anchor. To continue lowering, the user needs to release the handle back to the start position. Then, pull the handle back down to resume the lower. Alternatively, pull the handle harder to get past the “anti-panic” zone. The latter option is considered “advanced”.
While this “anti-panic” feature is probably good for less experience belayer it might be off-putting to more advanced users. Well Edelrid probably thought of that. They included a small screw. It can be inserted in the device to disable the anti-panic feature. I haven’t disabled the feature yet. I want a little more hands-on experience. This will help me better compare it to the anti-panic feature of the Petzl GriGri+ for a future video.
With either device follow the instructions and redirect your brake strand for a smooth and secure lower.
IMPROVISED HAULING FUNCTION
Both devices function almost identical in a hauling set up. As I mentioned in my detailed video on the Petzl Neox, I initially thought the spinning wheel might add efficiency. I was referring to its use in an improvised haul. However, I later realized the wheel is locked when the device is under tension. Therefore, there is no advantage of hauling with a Petzl Neox over a Petzl GriGri or the Edelrid Pinch. They both function well as progress captures and reduce friction efficiency in the hauling system at about the same level. One last minute detail is the Edelrid Pinch can be attached directly to the anchor without a locking carabiner. This saves you about 4 inches (10 cm) of more efficiency. You have fewer resets in your improvised hauling system.
SINGLE STRAND RAPPELLING (ABSEILING) FUNCTION
Both devices can be used for a single strand rappel. The big difference between the two is similar to the difference mentioned above in the lowering section. The Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” function which is probably most noticeable during a rappel. If you plan to do a lot of rappelling on a single strand, you might want to disable the anti-panic feature. Consider doing this at some point with the Edelrid Pinch. I recommend keeping it engaged for a few rappels first. This will allow you to see which you would prefer more.
ROPE ASCENSION
There is a notable difference in the use of these two devices when ascending a fixed rope. For the most part the Edelrid Pinch feels like a Petzl GriGri as a progress capture during rope ascension. The Petzl Neox makes it noticeably easier to pull rope through the device while standing in your leg loop. This is because the device is not loaded, unlike a haul system, and the wheel spins during that action. On a long rope climb, you will save a little energy with the Petzl Neox. However, exactly how much energy you save is debatable.
SUMMARY
Now for the hard part… which device is best for you? The crowning achievement of the Petzl Neox is the device’s ability to efficiently pay out slack. It can also take in slack as if the rope is just traveling through a pulley. The Petzl Neox is extremely beginner friendly requiring no special hand techniques other than quality PBUS belay technique.
The Edelrid Pinch is kind of breaking the mold here being the first Assisted Braking Device that can attach to the anchor point autonomously. This is a very intriguing design choice. It can be backed up easily with a separate locking carabiner if that is desired. Its function is quite similar to the long-time standard Petzl GriGri. It has an anti-panic feature that the user can decide to disable. It also has a really competitive suggested retail price when compared to any other device in this category.
You are probably already considering these two devices. They are likely options if you are in the market for a new Assisted Braking Device. I hope this comparison video has been informative. It has shown you some of the differences, some which are significant and some which are subtle. If you enjoyed this video, please like, share, and subscribe. Your support helps me cover new climbing gear, clothing, and equipment. It will help you get out into the mountains for some adventure!
Questions?
Let me know in the comments below and I will do my best to respond in a timely manner!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
A media sample of both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch were provided to the author at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!
I first learned of the “Backside of the Clove Hitch” in 2017 while reading The Mountain Guide Manual and soon after attended a clinic on its use given by Marc Chauvin, one of the authors of this impressive tome of knowledge. Adding this tool to your repertoire will give you more options and problem solving capacity while climbing, especially during transitions. From my experience while many guides use this tool it has been slower to catch on in the greater recreational climbing circles. This post hopes to bring more general awareness of this useful technique.
While the most common way to use this technique is to transition from climbing to rappelling it actually can be quite efficient in reverse. Last week my climbing partner and I rappelled down to a semi-hanging belay stance where we needed to pull the rope, then lead back out to the top of the cliff. There are a few ways to do this but utilizing the backside of the clove hitch technique had some real advantages.
One of the biggest advantages with this and the associated “Backside Rappel Feed” is that one of the two climbers can always stay tied in to one end of the rope. This ensures that the party will never drop their rope, and if a middle mark is at the anchor it eliminates the need for a “stopper” knot in the other free end of the rope. The free end will be less likely to get caught somewhere with out a stopper knot, and there is no need to remember to remove the stopper knot.
While the middle mark and being tied in to one end will prevent the potential for rappelling off the end of your rope, pre-rigging the second person to rappel will add even another layer of redundancy. In the avoidable instance where your middle mark is incorrect and you manage to rappel off the free end of your rope, with a pre-rigged partner at the anchor, you will essentially have just gone from a double strand rappel to a single strand rappel. Disaster avoided, but let’s make sure correct middle marks are used instead ok?
In its simplest form, the backside of the clove hitch technique is just using the climbing rope from “behind” the first climber’s clove hitch as a full strength completely adjustable tether. You would do the same thing with a simple overhand on a bight on that strand but the clove hitch allows you to custom the length of the attachment often leading to a more comfortable stance. I can recall many cramped rappel stations where had I known about this technique I would have quickly and easily secured my climbing partner a few feet away from me so we would not be uncomfortably on top of each other at the station.
One very important difference between using the backside of the clove hitch and the more traditional individual “tether” climbers often use is the security of the second climber relies on both clove hitches. The second climber needs to be secured by a different manner before the first climber removes their clove hitch. In the more common situation of transitioning to rappel this is simply done by the second climber pre-rigging themselves on rappel above the first climbers rappel device. Once both climbers are rigged to rappel and checks have been made, all clove hitches can be removed and the first climber can start rappelling (staying tied in on the harness to one of the rope ends).
The steps we took in the below video were intentional since we new that Bob would be leading the pitch and I was familiar with the rappel to get us on route. The most logical option in this situation was for us to set up a pretty standard single rope double strand retrievable rappel, but I would tie in with a retraced figure of eight to one end of the climbing rope and rappel first. The other free end of the rope did not need a stopper knot which reduces the chance of snags (or forgetting to remove it before pulling the rope).
I rappelled down to the belay station, built a quick anchor, and clove hitched myself to the anchor with the climbing rope. After I came off rappel and signaled to Bob he could start descending I tied another clove hitch on the strand “behind” by clove hitch and had a locking carabiner all ready to go to Bob’s belay loop when he arrived. Once he was clipped into that locker he could take himself off rappel, we could pull the free unknotted end of the rope through the top rappel anchor, stacking our rope as we pulled, and when we had the free end in hand Bob only needed to tie-in and get ready to start leading out from our station.
Summary
In recreational climbing it is beneficial to do more with less. A lot of climbers, myself included, use tools like the Petzl Connect Adjust or a sling to tether into the an anchor during a transition. Using the backside of your clove hitch to quicky create a super strong and fully adjustable tether for your parter is a solid skill to have in your tool kit. I hope this post has clearly explained the process and demonstrated some of the benefits of the technique. If you have any questions please share them below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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About ten years ago after a full day of climbing with my friend Rob we were sitting at the local brewery about to finish our second pint when a disagreement on the length of the classic Upper Refuse ramp came up. At this point I had likely guided the route over a hundred times and was intimately familiar with every move, variation, and gear placement. I claimed that the traditional 3 pitch ramp section of the route (excluding the scramble off at the very top) could be done in one well executed 60 meter lead. Rob called BS. We asked the bartender to keep our tab open and hopped in the car and drove to the top of the cliff to settle this disagreement.
I racked up and we jogged down the climbers descent trail to the Barber Wall area and scrambled over to the base of the route. I blasted up the variation that can be done in one rope stretching 60m pitch, belayed Rob up, and we drove back to the brewery. After the first sip of a fresh pour Rob looked at me and said “I guess you can climb Upper Refuse in one pitch”. We had only been away from our seats for an hour and 15 minutes.
The following contains MASSIVE SPOILERS regarding how I climb this in one pitch. Gear placements and moves will be described in detail. If you haven’t enjoyed an on-sight of this classic moderate trad route I would suggest skipping this section. If you want all the beta though here you go!
Rope Suggestion: I’m a big fan of the Sterling Nano 8.9mm rope. Super light weight and it’s triple rated (single, half, or twin use). Of course this post is about doing this with a 60 meter rope… if you have a 70 meter you could likely do any variation and still easily reach the end of the ramp (but watch that rope drag!)
Difficulty: The traditional route follows a path rated 5.5 on the Yosemite Decimal System. The variation I will describe is a grade harder, or 5.6 in difficulty. If this rating is near your traditional lead limit, or your partners following ability, I highly recommend you take advantage of at least one of the two cozy belay ledges on this route and break the climb up into 2 or 3 pitches. Climbing this in one long pitch will be more tiring then breaking the pitches up and having little breaks during your climb.
Route: From the starting ledge (accessed from either climbing a route below like Fun House or hiking down from the top and traversing the large Barber Wall tree ledge, use caution on the last 3rd class step to the ledge, there is a safer variation to this approach a few feet before the exposed slab approach) start up the obvious ramp just to the right of the intimidating Black Crack.
While there are a couple places a new leader should place gear here the climbing is pretty secure 5.3 face climbing on positive holds. I wait to place my first piece, a .3 Black Diamond C4, until I reach a splitter vertical crack in the left side wall. This piece is bomber and the crack is shallow enough that there is no potential for the cam to walk. I clip this one direct to the sewn sling on the cam, no extension needed.
Continue up the corner another 10 to 15 feet until you spot one of the best nut placements you’ve ever seen, again on the left hand side in a vertical crack. A few different sizes will work here, including some small CAMP Tricams, but the Black Diamond #12 (green) is perfect! I extend an alpine draw on this because it is a nut.
The climbing steepens a little but the holds stay positive. Continue up until you reach a comfortable stem and a vertical crack with a small tree growing out of it accepts a bomber Black Diamond .5 C4 Camelot. Like the first placement this one can be clipped directly into the sewn sling, no extension needed.
Make a few balancy moves to the right (now you are directly above the traditional belay ledge) and reach up to some big jugs and a great vertical crack on the left. Place a Black Diamond #1 C4 Camelot and clip it direct, no extension needed. You are about to make what I think is the crux move of this variation. Look for a small but good foot down to the right on the small arete itself. Commit to that foot, find anything even remotely decent for your left foot, and reach high and right to get a secure hold on the arete. Many make this move harder by trying to stay in the corner but that crack doesn’t continue. The best route is to move right with both hands as early as possible.
Now you have a dozen feet of easy climbing in the traditional chimney section of the route but you won’t be staying in the chimney long. As soon as you reach the small roof on the right tuck your Black Diamond #2 C4 up under the roof and place an extended alpine draw on it. This extension is crucial as without it your rope with be running over the lip of the small roof and causing massive drag. Once you get the sling out of the way of your feet pull out to the right of the roof on a great side pull and decent friction foot hold. As you rock over more to the right you’ll see a vertical crack that was obscured from below. It isn’t intuitive, but get your left hand, thump UP, into this crack. Trust me, you’ll get it once you’ve done it. I stem out far to the right here for great feet and a hands free rest if need. Make a few moves up the crack (optional to sling the small tree or place a cam here) and gain the spacious pitch 2 belay ledge.
Leaving the ledge there are options for smaller cams and solid nut placements here. In the past I’ve skipped this placement but in the video I opted to place a slightly over cammed Black Diamond .4 C4. The layback moves up the left side crack are not very strenuous and once you stem back to the right side crack you can reach up and grab the pine tree and the business is pretty much over.
Easier climbing again and then pause. Do not go left into the corner, but move out right on good feet and small hands (and great exposure) until below a short vertical crack. An optional Black Diamond .3 C4 can be placed here which I’ve found very useful when I’ve had to finish this climb in light rain, but it can be skipped. Make one move up to a very solid left hand and stance. Here close to the arete you’ll find about as perfect as a Black Diamond .75 C4 Cam placement in a horizontal that you could ever hope for. The rope is heavy at this point as you are almost out of rope. I extend this one with a quickdraw.
Finish the climb by climbing the left arcing crack to the top. Laybacking the crack and getting both feet in the crack for one or two moves will make it feel more secure. Look for an amazingly thin undercling on a flake to the left just before you top out. Find the good top out hand hold and resist the urge to use your knee on the last move… theres some nice small footholds there, finish it in good style!
Here many climbers miss seeing the piton anchor. It is low to the ground a few feet in front of you. Leaves often obscure it. The pins are quality, but can easily back them up with a Black Diamond #1 C4 or a .75.
Look back down the route and let your partner know you are off belay (they likely already removed their belay device and are standing at the first move because you are out of rope). Communication is quite easy here because you have line of sight.
Here’s some FPV of me climbing this yesterday showing each gear placement discussed above and the final anchor!
Well that’s the beta for climbing Upper Refuse in one 60 meter pitch. I think it climbs really well this way but again urge you to be familiar with the route before attempting this. If it’s your first time on the climb I would suggest you be a solid 5.8 traditional leader before trying to link all these pitches.
Exit: A few slabby moves allow you to basically hike off to the left from this ledge. If you would like a cooler finish as soon as you reach hiking terrain look for a weakness to the right and make some fun low fifth class moves to the very top and belay from the fence while tourists look at you oddly. I’ve come up with some great jokes to some of their questions over the years.
Me: After setting up my anchor and letting my partner know they are on belay… “How did you all get up here?”
Tourist: “We took the easy way!”
Me: “Oh there is a hiking trail?”
Tourist: “No…. we drove….”
Me: “There is a road to the top!?” <- said with a look of confusion and amazement…
Tourist: “Umm…. ya….”
Me: Yelling down to my partner who just started climbing “Hey Bob! There is a road to the top!!!”
Me: Looking at the tourists…. “I can’t believe Bob told me this was the only way we could get to the top of this cliff. I’m going to kill him when he gets up here!”
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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