Climbing Education

Tech Tip: Progress Capture Device (PCD) Belaying Techniques for Recreational Climbers

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , ,

Disclaimer: Some of the techniques discussed in this post require advanced knowledge of technical rope systems in a vertical environment. Subtleties and nuances abound. Seek qualified instruction from an AMGA certified guide or experienced mentor. Climbing is inherently dangerous, you do so at your own risk. Affiliate links below support this blog.

Belaying a Second with a PCD
Using a Petzl Nano Traxion Progress Capture Device to belay my second on low fifth class slab terrain.

For over a year I have caught a few social media posts of highly certified guides belaying their clients non-traditionally with a Progress Capture Device or “PCD”. This technique has crept into the recreational climbers tool kit and for good reason, it has some real real advantages over belaying with a more traditional plaquette (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) or the common Assisted Braking Devices “ABDs” the Petzl Gri Gri 2, Petzl Gri Gri+, the new Petzl Neox.

Choosing to belay with a PCD should be an informed and conscious decision and I hope this post will give you some of the information you should consider when making that decision. The biggest piece of this puzzle simply comes down to appropriate terrain.

  • Terrain– This technique is most suitable of belaying a second in 4th and easy 5th class terrain where the probability of a fall is low and the climber is moving at a higher rate of speed. Basically if the second isn’t moving faster then 1 meter a second (3 feet a second) you likely should belay with a more traditional method like a plaquette or ABD.
Belaying a Second with PCD
This low 5th class slab climbing terrain is one example of where belaying with a PCD might be a good choice
  • Manage Slack– It is imperative with any “toothed” PCD to have minimal slack in the system as the second is climbing. This should be manageable given the lack of resistance when pulling rope, especially through the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Micro Traxion. All three of the PCDs I link below have technical documentation that indicate a load over 4kN or more will lead to sheath damage. If slack is removed while the second climbs, especially towards the end of the pitch when there is less dynamic rope in the system, it should be easy to avoid a 4kN load on the PCD.
Belaying a Second with a PCD
Image from Petzl.com
  • Have Improvised Rescue Skills– This point is well illustrated by the amount of climbers who use plaquette style devices (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) but have yet to practice lowering from a loaded device. As mentioned earlier using a PCD to belay a second should be in terrain where a fall or lower is not expected. If either of those two things could be needed I would likely choose a different belay technique, however, unexpected does happen. If you are experienced enough to belay your second with a PCD you should have a solid understanding of release-able load transfers. You should have the skills to swap a loaded PCD with something that would allow a smooth lower (Munter Hitch, LSD, Gri Gri, etc). Making this transition safely and smoothly is something best learned from a qualified guide or instructor. (These skills are covered and practiced in my custom Self Rescue Course, send a message if interested in that curriculum).
Practicing rock rescue skills
Practicing rock rescue skills

A Comparison Look at Three PCDs

Petzl Tibloc, Nano Traxion, Micro Traxion Comparison
DevicePriceWeightRope Diameter
Petzl Tibloc$54.9536 grams8 – 11mm*
Petzl Nano Traxion$114.9553 grams7 – 11mm*
Petzl Micro Traxion$144.9585 grams7 – 11mm*

* Compatible with the PUR’LINE 6 MM cord only for hauling a pack

* Compatible with the RAD LINE 6 MM cord (more information in the Instructions for Use at http://www.petzl.com)

Petzl Tibloc Climbing Tips

The Petzl Tibloc is obviously the lightest and most affordable of the three Petzl PCDs I’m comparing here. It is well established as an excellent ultralight weight device for glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and improvised rescue. The addition of the spring loaded mechanism to initiate capture on the newest model of the Petzl Tibloc means it can work as a belay for a second, however, the lack of a pulley means you will feel noticeable more resistance when pulling slack through the system. For this reason alone I think it is worth considering one of the other two options from Petzl, especially now that there is a choice that weights only 16 grams more. Additionally, care needs to be used when installing the Petzl Tibloc to insure the rope passes through the locking carabiner and not just the device!

Belaying a Second with a PCD
Image from Petzl.com
Petzl Nano Traxion Climbing Tips

The Petzl Nano Traxion, while costing twice as much as the Petzl Tibloc, has a lot going for it. First, it incorporates a highly efficient (91%) pulley, which makes pulling in slack, regardless of diameter, quite effortless. At only 53 grams it is the lightest PCD + Pulley I have ever tested. Paired with a Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner and a home tied keeper cord this set up has become the newest edition to the back gear loop on my harness.

Belaying a Second with a PCD
Image from Petzl.com
Petzl Micro Traxion Climbing Tips

The Petzl Micro Traxion is the most expensive and heaviest of these options. The only real advantage of this model is the added mechanism that allows you to lock the cam in the open position so you can use the device as a simple pulley. It’s a pretty small addition to justify the additional cost and weight over the Petzl Nano Traxion.

Belaying a Second with a PCD
Context matters. Here I am belaying two fast moving seconds on a YDS 5.1 180 foot long slab pitch. This set up allowed me to keep up with both of them as they climbed the pitch in under 3 minutes.

Compatible Carabiners

My favorite carabiner for all three of these PCDs is the Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner. This small lightweight locking carabiner features a red indicator that aids in visually confirming if it is locked or not and a small hole for attaching a keeper cord to any of these devices. I’m also a fan of the Petzl OK Triact Auto Locking Carabiner and the Petzl OK Ball-Lock Carabiner especially when matched with the Petzl Tibloc.

Deal Alert

Pretty much every product I have linked to in this post is 25% off right now at Backcountry. If you do decide to purchase anything based off the information in this post I really appreciate you using those links. Your support will keep this content coming!

Summary

Climbing techniques continue to evolve with advances in methodology often happening at the highest levels of the sport (certified climbing guides and accredited organizations) and then disseminate to the more general practioners. Belaying with a PCD can lead to efficiency and increased safety in certain climbing situations. Keep in mind the choice should be well informed and consider; terrain, managed slack, and your ability to problem solve unlikely scenarios like needing to transition to an unexpected lower. If you do find yourself in situations where this technique would work for you consider adding the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner to your kit. After 1400 feet of moderate slab climbing this past weekend with two of my friends my elbows were quite happy I was familiar with this option!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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Lowering Tech Tip Series: Lowering with a Redirected Clip-Back

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , ,

The Redirected Clip-Back Lower provides a smooth lower and the rope will stay twist free if you keep the rope running inline with the belay device. This method works with any tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Verso. Don’t forget to add a third hand friction knot on off your belay loop to the brake strand and close your system!

  • First install the rope onto your tube style belay device as if you were about to belay your partner from your harness. Instead of attaching the belay carabiner to your belay loop, attach it to the master point of your anchor.
  • Redirect the brake strand through the same locking carabiner so that the brake strand is coming out of the carabiner on the same side as the load strand.
  • Before lowering attach a third hand fiction hitch to the brake strand and attach that to your belay loop with a locking carabiner.
  • Make sure the system is closed (either you are tied into the other end of the rope or it is knotted near the end). If your rope is already stacked you are now ready to lower.

Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice in a safe setting and seek qualified mentors, instructors, and guides.

Questions or Comments? Please share them below!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Your purchase after visiting these links will earn the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!

Lowering Tech Tip Series: Lowering with a Redirected Plate (ATC/Verso/etc)

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , ,

There are many reasons why a climbing party may choose to lower a team member during a descent, for example, very windy conditions. While the Munter Hitch only requires a single HMS style locking carabiner the “Redirected Plate” method is another option that only requires a tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Verso and two locking carabiners (or one if lowering through fixed chains).

This method provides one of the smoothest lowers and is probably the easiest to make sure the rope stays twist free.

  • First install the rope onto your tube style belay device as if you were about to belay your partner from your harness. Instead of attaching the belay carabiner to your belay loop attach it to the master point of your anchor.
  • Redirect the brake strand through a locking carabiner in the master point of your anchor. It is best if this locking carabiner is slightly smaller than the belay locking carabiner.
  • Before lowering attach a third hand fiction hitch to the brake strand and attach that to your belay loop.
  • Make sure the system is closed (either you are tied into the other end of the rope or it is knotted near the end). If your rope is already stacked you are now ready to lower.

An efficient use of this technique when rappelling with a single rope is to thread the rope through the fixed gear as the redirect instead of a locking carabiner. That way when the climber reaches the ground, or the next anchor, you can pull more rope through to the middle mark of your rope, remove your tube style device, put yourself on a double strand rappel, and head on down. Or even more crafty conduct a “Reepschneur” Rappel <- upcoming tech tip!

Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice this technique in a safe setting and seek qualified mentorship and instruction.

Questions or Comments? Please share them below!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase after using one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

Munter Mule Overhand (MMO): A Releasable-Under-Tension Knot

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , , ,
Munter Mule Overhand Climbing Knots

The Munter Mule Overhand or “MMO” is a combination of three knots that creates a releasable-under-tension method of securing a rope or cordelette. The MMO is useful in improvised self-rescue applications most often involving load transfers. In this situation I was using it to secure one end of a typical top-rope setup so my guest could practice rope ascension on the other end of the top-rope. The context here is if the climber practicing rope ascension gets a device jammed or has trouble transitioning from ascension back to descending I can remove the overhand, carefully deconstruct the Mule, then use the Munter to lower the climber back down to the ground.

Gear used in this video

Mammut Crag Classic Duodess Rope

Petzl William Screwlock Carabiner

Climbing is dangerous! Be sure to seek qualified instruction and practice new skills on the ground.

Questions or Comments? Please share them below!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliiate links above support the content created here. When making a purchase through these links the author earns a small commission on no additional cost to you. Thank you.

Testing the Petzl Neox: Efficiency in Hauling & Ascension Systems

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips , , , , , , ,

I’ve now had the Petzl Neox for about two weeks and have been able to form some opinions and test it in applications I’m most interested in. The most recent day I spent at the cliff with it was focused on seeing how it performed as a progress capture in an improvised hauling system and in a rope ascension system. Both these uses are important to me for assisting a seconding climber or rescuing an injured lead climber, and places where I would traditionally be using a Petzl GriGri. Here is some raw footage of this round of testing and some of my thoughts.

I assumed the Petzl Neox would work great for progress capture in this systems due to the spinning internal cog wheel and it definitely felt efficient in both the hauling scenario and the rope climbing scenario. I will be doing another round of comparisons with a more realistic full body weight load on the system but the fact the wheel still spun in my rope ascension test leads me to think it will still spin with a full load in a hauling system. This took me a little while to wrap my head around because you can seen when the device sees a full load while single strand rappelling the cam rotates, the wheel stops spinning, and you control your descent with the friction of the rope moving through the created bend. Why wouldn’t the wheel rotate and lock like that while using it as a progress capture?

The answer comes down to physics and while not having anything close to a degree in physics I can see how the device isn’t getting the full load in these scenarios. The full load is on the “tractor”, or friction hitch, or the Petzl Tibloc. When you go to pull slack through the Petzl Neox at that part of the cycle there is almost no weight on the device so the cam does not engage and the wheel spins freely reducing effort in hauling and ascending. When you relax during the hauling process all the load goes back to the Petzl Neox and the cam engages. Same with ascending, when you transfer your weight from your foot loop back to your harness the necessary threshold is exceeded and the cam engages. When you put your weight into your foot loop to progress the weight comes off the device and it is easier to pull the slack through the device then the Petzl GriGri.

Summary

It is still early in our broader exposure to this new belay device but the videos have been pouring out from influencers, highly certified guides, and rock star YouTuber’s. My opinion will likely evolve over the course of the summer as I put more days on the device, and expose more beginner climbers to it. For now I will re-iterate that I really like how easy it is to pull slack while belaying from above, and the more I think about it I do think this device may be in someways safer for a newer belayer as the instructions basically encourage you to not tough the device while paying out slack. This device may help prevent the holding open of the cam at risky moments which was likely part of the motivation of the anti-panic feature that came with the Petzl GriGri+.

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See you in the mountains!

I hope this information is helpful for your to make an informed decision. While Petzl supplied me with a Neox to review this is not a sponsored post. Affiliate links above help me continue to spend time creating these videos and posts and I thank you for your support!

Petzl Neox Assisted Blocking Belay Device: Initial Look

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips , , , , , ,

Today I was able to get out to the cliff for a short bit to check out the newly released assisted blocking belay device, the Petzl Neox.

This is not a full in-depth review. It is a preliminary look at this new option in assisted blocking belay devices and I try to distinguish some of the obvious differences in the Petzl Neox, the Petzl GriGri, and the Petzl GriGri+. As time allows I will be diving more deeply into the topics I mention in the video. In the meantime please check out my initial thoughts and if you haven’t already please subscribe to the YouTube channel so I can keep sharing this type of content with all of you!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no addition cost to you. Thank you!

The Munter Hitch: History, Formation, and Applications

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , , , , ,

The Munter Hitch is one of the most valuable knots used in climbing and every climber should become familiar with this versatile hitch. While Werner Munter didn’t invent the hitch, a few Italian’s did in the 1950s, he was the one who popularized it in the 1970s and why it bears his name. This hitch works best on a large pear shaped locking HMS style carabiner like a Petzl Attach or Petzl William Screwlock Carabiner. Fun fact, the “HMS” is a German abbreviated for “Halbmastwurfsicherung” which translated means roughly “half a clove hitch” which describes the structure of this hitch. You can read more on this history of the hitch here.

  • Formation

To tie the Munter Hitch you form a twist in the rope similar to the Clove Hitch and drop a strand into the carabiner as well. It is really easy when learning this hitch to remove the twist when you add the second strand which leaves you with the rope just double looped through the carabiner which should be obviously incorrect. Watching a few videos of how to tie it along with plenty of practice tying it inside your home or on the ground should proceed you tying it for real life application.

One of the cool aspects of the Munter Hitch is that it is “reversible”, meaning it will flip through the carabiner into a different orientation depending on which strand is being loaded. During instruction we use the terms “load” strand and “brake” strand. If you only apply load to the “load” strand the hitch will end up in what is referred to as the “lowering” orientation. If we only apply load, or more commonly pull in slack while belaying, the hitch will flip through the carabiner into what is referred to as “belay” orientation. Generally when creating the Munter Hitch it is common to create an “air” hitch like demonstrated in the above video and then install it onto the carabiner. With a little practice it becomes efficient to tie the hitch directly onto the carabiner.

  • Advanced Formation

For those with a strong grasp on the basic ways to form the hitch it can be useful to learn how to tie the hitch onto the carabiner in the orientation it will first be operated. For example tying it so it is already in belay orientation, or tying it is it is already in lowering orientation. These methods can add efficiency especially when progressing to advanced self-rescue skills and for those seeking out guiding certifications in rock and alpine guiding.

  • Application
  • Belaying– The most common use for the Munter Hitch is an alternative to a plaquette style belay device like a Petzl Reverso or Black Diamond ATC Guide when belaying a second directly from the anchor. This choice may be because of a dropped belay device, or it may be for speed and efficiency, or it may be out of necessity (ice’d up frozen ropes while ice climbing can work better in this hitch and be near impossible to install into a plaquette).
  • Lowering– The smoothest way to lower a climber directly from above is by using a Munter Hitch and lowering directly from an anchor. A common misconception is this method will twist your rope up and/or greatly wear your rope as the hitch rubs on itself. Both of these conceptions are false with proper use of the hitch, which primarily means keeping the orientation of the BRAKE strand PARALLEL to the LOAD strand while lowering. Doing so will prevent any twisting of rope. The second consideration is conducting a smooth, steady, non-high speed lower. This will not damage the rope and modern rope have sheaths that can easily handle the minimal wear using this hitch hundreds of times will put on your rope. It is a good practice to use a “third hand” friction hitch on the brake side of the hitch connected to your belay loop while conducting anything but the shortest and simplest of lowers.
  • Rappelling– While it is possible to rappel short distances with the Munter Hitch attached to a locking carabiner on your belay loop it is a bit awkward to do so and the dramatic difference in angle that the two strands leave the hitch leads to massive rope twisting (and where this hitch probably got a misguided bad-wrap). In truth if you rappel by holding your brake strand parallel to the rope you can manage this without twisting your rope but this practice is very unintuitive to other modes of rappelling and I would only use it as a last resort.

Summary

The Munter Hitch should be in your top five familiar climbing knots. From belaying to lowering it has a lot of applications in climbing, especially in the self-rescue world when we start looking at tension releasable solutions (coming soon). If you haven’t used this hitch in your climbing take sometime to build it at home and see how it operates. Even with all the advanced and great belay devices on the market it is wise to have a fall back plan that only requires a single locking carabiner.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through on of those links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!

Preventing Rappelling Accidents: How to Safely Use Girth Hitched Rappel Rings

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , , , , , ,

On April 28th, 2024 a climber fell almost 400 feet sustaining serious injuries when their rappel system failed. The suspected mechanism of failure was an improperly threaded girth hitched rappel ring. In this video I demonstrate how this occurrence is possible.

Some key take home points;

  • For better and/or worse we are seeing girth hitched rappel rings on fixed rappel anchors
  • Careful inspection of the hitch and proper placement of your threaded rope is CRITICAL
  • Best practice is to ALWAYS stress test your rappel connection BEFORE you remove your lanyard from the anchor.

    Alpine Savvy also has a nice post with more information and some opinions on this situation here.

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start

    Psst… You can get 10% off Rocky Talkies with “AlpineStart10” at this link!

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    Mastering the Clove Hitch: Essential Knot Tying Techniques

    David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips, Wilderness Survival , , , , ,

    The Clove Hitch is the most common knot used to secure oneself to an anchor and in this video I share the multiple ways I have learned to tie this excellent hitch.

    The first method I learned was to create the two asymmetrical loops and then “slide” the loops in front or behind each other. Then I learned the “crossed” hands method which takes a little practice but once you get it dialed it is a very fast way to form the hitch. The one-handed clove hitch is a bit of a party trick but still fun to learn. Finally learning to tie the clove hitch directly onto a carabiner with one hand is a worthwhile skill to master as you can increase your security on a small stance by holding onto the anchor with your off hand. I use this method most often while ice climbing but it’s useful in any climbing context.

    One tip to assist learning how to tie the clove onto a carabiner is to just start with a clove hitch already on the carabiner, and then slowly “deconstruct” the hitch only strand at a time. Then build the hitch again, and deconstruct again, and repeat until the muscle memory is gained!

    While you can also tie a clove hitch around a solid object, like a tree, I’ve never found a practical use for that method in the climbing world, so I do not demonstrate it here.

    How do you like to tie your clove hitch? Know any other methods that I haven’t listed here?

    Gear Used In This Video:

    Mammut Crag Dry Duodess Rope, 9.5mm

    Wild Country Mosquito Pro Harness

    Edelrid HMPE Cord Sling

    CAMP USA Nimbus Locking Carabiner

    Clothing Worn In This Video:

    Black Diamond Alpine Pants

    Ortovox Windbreaker Jacket

    Salewa Puez Knit PTX Hiking Shoes

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start

    Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through one of those links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

    Optimized Figure Eight Knot: Essential Steps for Tying

    David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Tech Tips, Tech Tips, Wilderness Survival , , , , , ,

    The first knot most climbers learn is the “Retraced Figure Eight” knot. While a minority of climbers choose to connect the rope to their harness with a double bowline knot most of the climbing guides and instructors I have met greatly prefer to the more easily recognizable Figure Eight. Since there are a few ways to create a retraced Figure of Eight there is only one way that is becoming more known as “ideal”. When all these points are met I refer to this as the “Optimized” Figure Eight Knot.

    • Only the amount of rope needed to create the knot is used
    • The loop that has captured the harness tie-in point is no larger then the belay loop
    • All the strands are parallel with no cross overs
    • After all four strands exiting the knot are “dressed & stressed” there is only 6 inches of tail
    • The load strand entering the knot ends up on the “inside” of the knot
    • Your partner checks your knot before you start climbing

    In this video I demonstrate the methods I use to tie this correctly each time.

    There is a really in-depth look at this by “Hard is Easy” on YouTube here, though I use a mirror image of his method to achieve the same result. There are also some great pictures showing some of the nuances over at Alpine Savvy.

    Do you tie your eight like this? Any questions or comments? Please let me know below!

    See you in the mountains,

    Northeast Alpine Start

      Affiliate links above support this blog. Making a purchase through one of them will earn the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.