What’s in a Rescuer’s Pack Series- Part 4 First Aid Kit & Training!

October 14, 2025October 27, 2025 David Lottmann adventure travel, Backcountry Skiing, backpacking, Climbing Education, Gear Reviews, hiking, hiking, Mountaineering, Professional Development, Self-Rescue, Wilderness Medicine, Wilderness Navigation, Wilderness Survival, winter hiking adventure, health, hiking, nature, travel

First Aid Kits and Training for Outdoor Recreation and Search & Rescue

Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass

Part 2- Digital Map (and maybe a physical backup)

Part 3- Headlamps… plural!

Part 4- First Aid Kit & Training!

Part 5- Water and Water Treatment

Every outdoor adventure gear list includes a first aid kit. However, possessing first aid supplies is far less important than having some level of first aid knowledge. Most search and rescue organizations either require or highly encourage their members to obtain a Wilderness First Aid (WFA) certification. Those seeking greater confidence in their ability to treat common injuries and illnesses in the backcountry should aim for a Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certification. Advanced SAR teams may also include Wilderness EMTs or AEMTs, along with ER nurses or physicians.

These courses are offered by a few organizations all over the country. If you are located in the Northeastern US I highly recommend taking one of these courses at SOLO in Conway, New Hampshire. Not only does SOLO have some of the best instructors in the outdoor emergency treatment field their campus, classrooms, and “Toad Hall” lodging have a very warm and welcoming vibe.

Patient care is generally the responsibility of the highest-trained team member present. But everyone starts with little or no training, and progresses from there. Before purchasing or assembling a first aid kit, I strongly recommend obtaining proper training. Not only does training clarify what should be in your kit, but it also prepares you for real emergencies. Fortunately, there are many avenues for affordable or even free first aid training options.

In the outdoor and rescue communities, CPR certification from the American Red Cross or the American Heart Association is emphasized. While CPR is often included in WFA or Wilderness First Responder courses, it can also be taken as a standalone course. That said, I believe practicing bleeding control should be prioritized more highly. In outdoor settings—and even during everyday life—the likelihood of encountering a medical emergency requiring effective bleeding management far exceeds the need for CPR skills. Car accidents, workplace incidents, household mishaps, and firearm-related injuries all demand swift, decisive action to improve outcomes.

(Medical CPR Mask)

To that end, I highly recommend completing the free online Stop The Bleed course offered by the American College of Surgeons. It takes less than an hour, and while online-only training lacks hands-on practice, the knowledge gained provides a solid foundation. After completing this program or an equivalent, the next step is to add a quality tourniquet to your everyday carry (EDC). A tourniquet is your best chance at stopping life-threatening bleeding before the patient can reach advanced medical care. Keep one in each vehicle, as car accidents frequently cause injuries requiring tourniquet application. If you work with firearms—whether in law enforcement, hunting, or self-defense—it’s wise to carry a tourniquet on your person at all times.

Be cautious of cheap tourniquets sold on Amazon; I’ve heard too many stories of handles breaking during application. I recommend the CAT Gen 7 Tourniquet by North American Rescue, which I keep in my range bag, vehicles, rescue pack, and emergency sling pack. I also carry the RATS Tourniquet, especially useful for small children, as it reportedly performs better on them.

Once you’ve completed the Stop The Bleed course, explore other free online first aid trainings through a simple Google search. Ideally, you’ll find time to attend in-person Wilderness First Aid or Wilderness First Responder courses, which offer invaluable hands-on experience and help you fine-tune your kit. While some prefer to assemble their first aid kits from scratch for cost savings, I recommend starting with a high-quality commercial kit and supplementing it with additional supplies. Two reputable brands I’ve used are Adventure Medical Kits and My Medic.

Two great beginner kits are the AMK Ultralight/Watertight .9 First Aid Kit and the My Medic Sidekick IFAK, which I enhance with extra medications, nitrile gloves, a tourniquet, and a small spare headlamp. For more comprehensive needs—particularly around firearms—the My Medic Everyday Carry Kit includes additional items like chest seals and a tourniquet, which can also be added separately to other kits.

For Search and Rescue missions, I also include a SAM Splint, chemical hand and body warmers, and an EpiPen.

You can supplement your online and in-person first aid training with books. A few I would suggest to add to your library are:

NOLS Wilderness Medicine

SOLO’s Field Guide to Wilderness First Aid, 5th Ed.

Wilderness First Responder: How to Recognize, Treat, and Prevent Emergencies in the Backcountry

You can also learn by following some medical related Instagram/YouTube channels. I recommend following North American Rescue and Medical Talks on Instagram. <- Graphic Sensitive Content Warning! Both these account show graphic injuries quite often.

Summary:
While a small first aid kit suffices for recreational hikes, SAR team members often respond to injuries or accidents requiring more advanced supplies and skills. As such, your kit should be more comprehensive than a typical hiking first aid kit. I hope this guidance helps you acquire the training and equipment necessary to treat minor injuries effectively and, in critical situations, potentially save a life.**

Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue

Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:

Androscroggin Valley Search and Rescue Donations

Lakes Region Search and Rescue Donations

While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.

Comments? Questions?

Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to first aid kits or training or my suggestions.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: The author is not a doctor and this post is not intended to provide medical advice. The opinions above come from the author’s experience as a Wilderness First Responder and Search & Rescue Team member. Seek proper instruction from qualified trainers. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of these links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!

What’s in a Rescuer’s Pack Series- Part 3 Headlamps… plural!

September 22, 2025October 27, 2025 David Lottmann Uncategorized adventure, camping, headlamps, hiking, outdoor recreation, outdoor safety, outdoors, search and rescue, travel

Headlamps for Hiking and Search and Rescue — *Photo credit to Corey David Photography, an active SAR team member.*

Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass

Part 2- Digital Map (and maybe a physical backup)

Part 3- Headlamps… plural!

Part 4- First Aid Kit & Training!

Part 5- Water and Water Treatment

Every gear list for recreational hiking includes “flashlight or headlamp”. For practicality in outdoor recreation you need hands-free illumination to perform simple tasks. These tasks include tying your boot laces or lighting a gas stove. For this reason, a headlamp is a better choice than a handheld flashlight. It is suitable for the outdoor adventurer and volunteer or professional search and rescue team member.

Things to look for in a quality mid-to-high end headlamp;

Long lasting battery life– Many search and rescue missions start close to sunset. They often don’t conclude until close to sunrise. Rescuers spend a lot of time hiking in the dark. Look for a headlamp that has at least 20-40 hours of “burn time” on lower settings.
Bright!– The woods at night under an overcast sky are dark. You will want a headlamp that has at least 500 lumens.
Durable/Water Resistent- You should look for time trusted brand names and a minimum of IPX-4 rating for water resistance.

My current SAR purpose headlamp is the Petzl IKO Core. This headlamp has 500 lumens with solid 100 meter throw. It comes with a rechargeable battery that provides 80 hours of burn time on the lowest setting. The pouch that comes with it doubles as a “lantern” bag when inside a tent. This is a very cool feature during planned or unplanned bivies. I hope to upgrade this to the Petzl Nao RL Headlamp. It has three times the lumens (1500). It also offers 160 meters of range!

A military saying that stayed with me is “One is none, two is one”. Inside my first aid kit, I carry a spare headlamp. It is useful if someone forgets their headlamp. It is also helpful if the batteries of your main headlamp die. The Petzl Bindi is an excellent choice as a backup headlamp.

Tips for Headlamp Use

Regardless of what model you select there are some best practices to be aware of.

If you are using a rechargeable headlamp like I am make sure you keep it fully charged. I typically check my battery level at the beginning of the winter season and again at the beginning of spring. Basically I use the “equinox’s” as reminders to check batteries.

If you are using removable batteries, AA or AAA, I highly recommend lithium batteries. It is worth the added cost over alkaline batteries. First, they last much longer both with shelf life and during use. Exact numbers are hard to provide. However, in use, I feel lithium batteries last 3-4 times longer than their alkaline counterparts. This alone justifies their added expense to me. An additional benefit, especially for cold weather use, is lithium batteries greatly out perform alkaline batteries in sub-zero temperatures.

As darkness approaches have your headlamp accessible or on your head, but do not turn it on yet. Let your eyes adjust to the failing light. Keep the headlamp off until you reach a level of darkness were light is truly needed for safe footing. If traveling when dawn approaches be aware of when you no longer need headlamp illumination. It can be easy to forget to turn your headlamp off as day breaks.

Use the lowest possible setting for 95% of your use. When you are traveling up a trail miles to the patient you do not need to light up the entire forest. Use the lowest setting possible to still see your footing and let your eyes adjust to the darkness.

Be cautious not to blind your teammates. Keep your headlamp angled down to your footing. Shield the light when you look towards others.

Summary

A quality headlamp is a suggestion for recreational hiking and a real necessity for search and rescue work. I have a few other mid-range headlamps around the house and stashed in vehicle glove boxes. They include the Petzl Actik Headlamp and the super affordable Petzl Tikkina Headlamp. This ensures everyone in my family has a headlamp during a power-outage. In the growing list of things I carry, a quality headlamp is a must. It easily earns a spot in the top three of my rescue backpack essentials.

What headlamp do you carry?

Ever found yourself wishing for more illumination while outdoors?

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue

Androscroggin Valley Search and Rescue Donations

Lakes Region Search and Rescue Donations

While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

What’s in a Rescuer’s Pack Series- Part 1 Physical Mirrored Compass

September 15, 2025October 27, 2025 David Lottmann adventure travel, Avalanche Courses, Backcountry Skiing, backpacking, Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, hiking, Land Navigation, Misc Reviews, Mountaineering, Tech Tips, Tech Tips, Wilderness Medicine, Wilderness Navigation, Wilderness Survival adventure, backpacking, climbing, hiking, Land Navigation, map and compass, mountaineering, nature, search and rescue, Survival Skills, travel, Wilderness Navigation, Wilderness Survival

Best Compass For Hiking and Search and Rescue

Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass

Part 2- Digital Map (and maybe a physical backup)

Part 3- Headlamps… plural!

Part 4- First Aid Kit & Training!

Part 5- Water and Water Treatment

With over twenty years of service on multiple Search and Rescue teams in the White Mountains of New Hampshire I’ve had plenty of time to dial in what I carry on missions. My rescue pack is different from my typical guiding pack in a couple ways.

First, I carry more tools for off trail navigation than what I pack for guiding trade routes that I have traveled hundreds of times.

Second, I carry the gear I need to comfortably spend a night out in the woods if need be. In this series I’m going to break down every item in my pack and go into detail about each item, its purpose, and make brand and model recommendations for each piece.

Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass

Despite my affinity for digital GPS navigation I do still carry a quality liquid filled magnetic compass. My requirements for a compass are accuracy, durability, and dependability. For over two decades I’ve relied on the Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass.

This compass checks all my boxes.

Accurate?

The manufacturer claimed accuracy is to 2 degrees and the resolution is also 2 degrees. With the sighting mirror and dual elevation sight-notches I can take very precise bearings in the field. The full length compass when opened supports accurate single point and dual point resection. In practice I’ve covered a few miles of off trail travel, both dense forest areas and barren alpine zones, and found my objective every time with this compass.

Durable?

In twenty years I’ve never broken on of these compasses. They are rugged. I’ve only replaced it once when it went missing during one of the avalanche courses I was teaching. I’m pretty sure a student accidentally took it home after a field session. Speaking of avalanche safety this compass has a built in clinometer which measures slope angle.

Measuring slope angle with the built in clinometer on the Suunto MC-2 Compass to make better decisions in avalanche terrain

Not only is this ability crucial for avalanche safety but it’s helpful with navigation as well. If you’re trying to determine if a nearby peak is higher or lower than your current location a clinometer can accurately answer that for you.

(The back arrow above indicates a 35 degree slope along the top or bottom edge of the clear base plate)

Dependable?

One of the biggest reasons I still carry a physical mirrored compass is because of how often I work in cold weather conditions. Smartphones are very susceptible to the kind of temperature I both recreate in, and serve in when on a SAR mission. Even keeping my iPhone warm in an inner chest pocket I have seen the screen stop working in mere seconds when exposed to below freezing temperatures. I have used my mirrored compass during above tree-line searches in sub-zero temperatures. Suunto claims the liquid used will not freeze until -30° C / -22° F.

For occasional recreational use this compass may be a bit more than you need. For light recreational use I recommend my students purchase a model like the Suunto A-10 NH Compass or better if their budget can afford it.

The Suunto M-3 NH Compass is a good mid-range choice. For professional level use for someone who plans to spend a fair amount of time traveling off the beaten paths I highly recommend the added accuracy of a mirrored compass.

I’ve always found success with Suunto compasses but I have a friend and colleague who teaches Wilderness Survival and Wilderness First Responder Courses and he is a big fan of Brunton, so with his trusted endorsement I am including that brand as well below with some general comments on each high end model.

Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass – If you travel internationally this is the model to get as the patented global needle will work anywhere in the world.

Suunto MC-2 NH Mirrored Compass – If your adventures are contained to the Northern Hemisphere this is the model for you. Took me a hot minute to figure out that “NH” didn’t stand for my beloved state of New Hampshire, but for “Northern Hemisphere”. The needle is designed to float freely anywhere north of the Equator.

Brunton Truarc15 Luminescent Compass– My colleague, who probably spends more time then most traveling through the woods in the dark, is a fan of this compass. It certainly looks to me to be a very solid choice for a professional level compass.

Summary

While this series will likely cover the rest of the “ten essentials” soon I purposely started with the compass before the map. If I had to pick between navigating with only a compass or a map, I would choose a compass. While my improvised/survival navigation skills are quite sharp, a compass lets me follow a very specific bearing into trail-less wilderness in darkness or fog for a few miles, and return back my starting point often within a few dozen feet. This type of competent navigation is only gained through dedicated practice in the field and would be impossible with just a map and no compass.

Get Skilled

If terms like “declination” and “resection” are not familiar to you I would highly suggest seeking out a quality course in Wilderness Navigation. There are many options from free clinics offered by hiking clubs to high level courses. I actually developed my own 8 hour course after not finding a course anywhere that offered the type of classroom/field session lessons I think are effective. Feel free to reach out if you’d like to book a Wilderness Navigation Course with me! I also have a small selection of YouTube videos covering some compass topics you can check out here!

Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue

Androscroggin Valley Search and Rescue Donations

Lakes Region Search and Rescue Donations

While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.

Comments? Questions?

Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to compasses or my suggestions. Let me know what your favorite compass model is! Do you feel competent with compass navigation? Have you practiced recently?

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to the reader. Thank you!

Fixed Rope Missing! Chapel Rock, Pine Mountain

June 28, 2025 David Lottmann Uncategorized adventure, camping, climbing, hiking, travel

During the Summer/Fall of 2023 I partnered with Horton Center to improve the climbing opportunities for their campers at Chapel Rock, Pine Mountain, located in Gorham, New Hampshire. I documented this in great detail in this post.

Rock Climbing Chapel Rock Pine Mountain — *The exact model of rope missing, this is the one still there to access the rightmost climbs*

Unfortunately, one of the fixed static ropes I installed has gone missing. The camp purchased it, and I installed it to protect the staff while setting up the two leftmost climbs.

I’ve now donated one of my own static ropes and re-installed it so the staff can continue to set up these two climbs which they have spent many hours scrubbing to make more climbable.

I’ve suggested to camp management this may have been a mis-informed act of “Leave No Trace” with someone removing the fixed rope. It’s possible someone with old school ethics does not believe a fixed rope is needed here (it is definite 4th class terrain). There could be other reasons I am not thinking of for why someone may have taken it.

The bottom line is this was private property purchased by a non-profit camp that provides accessible camp adventures and was taken from private property. That’s theft. At this point we want to believe this was not a malicious act. We would like whoever is responsible for removing the rope to return it anonymously with no questions asked. If this reaches the party responsible for removing the rope we are suggesting any of these options to return the rope:

Leave it at the gate on the camp road a couple hundred yards from Dolly Copp Road.
Leave it at International Mountain Equipment with “Northeast Alpine Start” on it
Mail it to the camp with no return address to PO Box J, Pinkham B Road, Gorham, NH 03581.

We truly are not interested in pursuing any legal action and would just like the costly rope back, especially now that an exact replacement costs 40% more due to tarrifs.

At this time the camp isn’t planning to close access during the non-camp season months, but if there is a second removal of camp property from camp property I don’t think anyone would expect the camp to still allow the public to climb on its property. Access is a privilege at this location, not a right.

I really hope this rope is returned, and if it isn’t returned, this is the last time someone takes something from this camp and causes the public to lose access to such a cool venue.

Gear Review: Petzl Glacier Mountaineering Axe

March 4, 2025 David Lottmann adventure travel, Backcountry Skiing, cascades climbing, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Misc Reviews, Mountaineering, Tech Tips, Wilderness Survival backcountry skiing, climbing, Gear Reviews, hiking, ice climbing, mountaineering, travel

This winter I have been using the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe for guiding winter Mount Washington ascents. I have also been using it for teaching mountaineering skills courses. The bottom line? This is a solid choice for a general mountaineering axe with some nice features. I chose the 68 centimeter size for my 5’9″ height. The axe is also available in 50, 60, and 75 centimeter lengths. The 68 centimeter size weighs 365 grams.

The head of the axe has a classic shaped pick which is most effective for self-arrest. The sharper and more aggressive tip of the pick is suitable for overcoming the occasional ice bulge. The adze is wider than most similar style axes. It provides a comfortable grip when using the traveling hand position (piolet panne). The small concave dip at the top of the shaft adds comfort for the self-arrest grip. The tool comes with the “LINKIN” removable leash, a $20 value. Personally I don’t like to use leashes on my ice tools so I did remove it before testing.

A removable pick protector is included. For casual climbs without much fall hazard I think it makes sense to leave the tip protector on. As your route becomes more technical with occasional ice bulges and more exposure to long sliding falls I would choose to leave the protector at home or in the car at the trail-head.

A removable spike protector is included as well. I liked how I could slide this up the tool during a casual ascent. This way, it would not interfere with proper “piolet canne” technique. After the axe was put back on my pack and I took my trekking poles out it was quick and easy to cover the sharp spike.

After a half dozen trips into the mountains with the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe, I can easily recommend it. It is suitable for anyone shopping for a well-designed general mountaineering axe. More important than what axe you buy though is that you seek out the training in its proper use. Consider taking a Mountaineering Skills Course so that you can learn proper crampon and ice axe technique before relying on this equipment to protect you. You can use the contact page here to check my availability if you would like to request me as your guide.

← Back

Thank you for your response. ✨

Here is a quick video we shot yesterday after a successful summit of Mount Washington where I point out basic nomenclature of a mountaineering axe.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

Climbing Tech Tip: Proper Lap Coils

October 28, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips climbing, climbing tips, ice climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing, sport climbing, Tech Tips, trad climbing, travel

If a suitable ledge for stacking the climbing rope is not available, coil the rope over your anchor attachment. For maximum efficiency your coils should either start longer and end short, or start short and end long (never the same size coils!).

Choosing the right choice depends on who is leading the next pitch. If your partner is leading the next pitch you want to start with long coils progressively getting smaller. That way, when they start to lead, the smaller coils on top should feed off smoothly. This prevents looping under a longer coil, which creates tangles.

If you are leading the next pitch you should start with smaller coils progressively getting bigger. Then, after your partner tethers to the anchor, you can carefully “flip” the whole lap coil over onto their tether. The smaller coils (your end of the rope) should now be on top of the lap coil. They should feed off smoothly.

It takes some practice to do this neatly to avoid tangles. When done correctly the climbing party will lose very little time at the belay transition. If the lap coils are not tidy, re-stack or recoil the rope. This ensures the leader end will feed smoothly during the next pitch.

Have you been doing this?

Ever have a rope coil mess that you just toss down the cliff below you hoping for the best?

The rope used in this video is the Mammut Crag Classic Doudess 9.8mm 60m.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support this blog. Making a purchase through one of the links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!

Essential Guide to the Reepschnur Rappel

October 20, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips adventure, climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing, travel

Disclaimer: The Reepschnur Rappel is an advanced climbing technique. Like all technical climbing techniques, misunderstanding or misapplication can lead to serious bodily injury or death. Seek qualified in-person instruction on this technique from an AMGA certified guide or a seasoned and vetted mentor. You take all responsibility in attempting any climbing technique you learn from the internet.

Last week my partner Foster and I found ourselves at the top of the second pitch of the classic Wanderlust route on Humprey’s Ledge, North Conway NH. We were climbing with a single 70 meter Mammut Alpine Dry Climbing Rope.

Comments on Mountain Project indicated a 70m double rappel would just barely reach the ground. I chose instead to conduct a Reepschur Rappel. I had read about this technique in a couple of different climbing texts. I felt it would be a good choice for the situation we were in. In fact if you are not sure your ropes will reach the next anchor or the ground this is a great method to understand.

To begin, I tethered into the anchor. This allowed me to untie from my rope end. Then I fed a little more than half the rope through the fixed anchor rings. I then lowered Foster directly from the anchor with a Munter hitch and a third hand friction hitch backup. There are many ways you could lower your partner like a redirected plate. The advantage of lowering your partner is clear. You can measure accurately how far you need to go to reach the next anchor. In our case, it meant reaching the ground. The middle mark of the rope passed through my lowering system. It traveled about 20 feet down the cliff. Then Foster reached the ground.

At this point, I tied an overhand on a bight on the brake side of the lowering system. I then clipped it with a locking carabiner to the strand I had lowered Foster on. This essentially creates what some folks call a “GriGri Rappel.” You can now conduct a single strand rappel on this strand with any appropriate device. A blocked “GriGri rappel” is pretty simple. The challenge is how to recover your rope when the “pull” side does not reach the ground.

The solution here is pretty simple. When you reach the end of the “pull” side of the rope, attach enough material to it. This way, you can finish your rappel and still have a connection to the pull side for rope recovery. What you attach to this side can be anything. You could untie a 20 foot cordelette. This is especially true if your joining knot is a Flat Overhand Bend. You could chain all of your quick-draws together. You could literally use shoelaces if you needed to. Use whatever you need to finish your single strand blocked rappel and still have a connection to the “pull” side. Once you are secure, either at the next anchor or the ground, you can pull your chain of connection. This will allow you to recover your rope.

This technique really opens up the potential of climbing with “pull cords” which can be insanely light and pack-able. The Petzl Purline is an industry favorite. It is ideal if the climbing party only wants to carry one fully rated dynamic climbing rope. Climbers can still conduct full rope length rappels.

Dangers!

If you unintentionally install your device on the pull side of this blocked rappel it would end in tragedy. Be paranoid of this error and don’t make it!

If your rope gets stuck while pulling your pull cord, you likely won’t have any rated climbing rope. This means that you can’t “lead back up.” You can’t fix the problem like you would in a more traditional double rope rappel system.

Skinny pull cords can be hard to grasp and pull especially if there is a lot of friction above. I fondly remember trying to rappel with a pull cord. It was 60 meters of 5mm accessory cord on Cathedral Ledge. This was almost two decades ago. We read about the technique in “Climbing Magazine.” In moderate winds, our pull cord wrapped itself around our main climbing line dozens of times. We got down with only mild hypothermia. We had to build an improvised 9:1 haul system to actually pull the rope down.

With those considerations and warnings in mind the Reepschnur rappel likely deserves more awareness in the recreational climber’s repertoire. Like many advanced climbing techniques, we usually learn about them directly from a certified climbing guide. Alternatively, books like the Mountain Guide Manual, published with advanced users in mind also give this information. This post aims to introduce this valuable technique to a broader audience. I sincerely hope that the audience heeds the warnings of nuanced application.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of these links the author earns a small commission on no additional cost to you. Thank you!

Comparing Petzl Neox and Edelrid Pinch for Climbing

October 7, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips adventure, assisted braking devices, belay devices, climbing, edelrid, edelrid pinch, ice climbing, mountaineering, petzl, petzl neox, rock climbing, travel

The Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch are the two biggest additions to the growing market of Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs). Many of you might be wondering which device is the right one for you.

In this video, I will show the key differences between each device. This will help you make an informed decision on which device is best for you. This is not an in-depth review of either device. More in-depth reviews of each device will be linked below in the description as they are published. Below the video is a transcript with greater detail than what I had time to convey in the video. Feel free to skip to any section you would like more information on!

COST

To start our comparison let’s look at retail cost. The manufacturer suggested retail price of the Petzl Neox is $149.95 USD ($€29 Euros) and the Edelrid Pinch is $119.95 USD (€99.95). The difference of $30 USD is not insignificant. The Petzl Neox must be paired with a locking carabiner to function. In contrast, the Edelrid Pinch can be used without a locking carabiner. For comparison the recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner is $18.95 USD.

WEIGHT

Next let’s look at the difference in weight. The Petzl Neox claimed weight is 235 grams. The Edelrid Pinch claimed weight is 234 grams. That’s only 1 gram difference so even Steven right? Well not quite. You see the Edelrid Pinch is designed to be usable without a locking carabiner. It has a secure locking attachment point. You can connect it to any belay loop or master point that is a minimum of 10mm in width. I’ve seen some guides on social media adding a locking carabiner as a sort of “double” lock on the setup. While there isn’t really anything wrong with being “extra” safe, I haven’t seen any reason for concern. This is true when the device is installed properly without using an extra locking carabiner. So, for comparison reasons, the Edelrid Pinch is one locking carabiner lighter. This makes it lighter than a usable Petzl Neox. The recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner weighs 46 grams for comparison.

SIZE

Size wise they are pretty similar. The Petzl Neox is about 4 ¼ inches (10.76 cm) long and 2 ½ inches (6.35 cm) wide and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The Edelrid Pinch is 5 ½ inches (14 cm) long and 2 ¾ inches (7 cm) and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The difference in dimensions is quite minimal. However, you could factor in the additional size of a locking carabiner for the Petzl Neox to function. This may not matter much from a pack-ability standpoint. We will discuss later how having the Edelrid Pinch connected directly to your harness belay loop might be more efficient. It could also be attached to the anchor master point during belays for added efficiency.

ROPE SIZE

The Petzl Neox is approved to be used with single rated climbing ropes between 8.5 and 11 millimeters. The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used with single rated dynamic ropes between 8.5 and 10.5 millimeters and static ropes between 10 to 10.5 millimeters. I haven’t climbed on a single rated rope thicker than 10.5 millimeters in a couple of decades so I don’t think this difference is very notable. It is interesting that the usable threshold for static rope is mentioned to be smaller. I’m not sure exactly why that is. This answer probably is not very relevant to most potential users. Most static ropes likely fall within the 10 to 10.5 millimeter range.

LEAD BELAY FUNCTION

There are some pretty noticeable differences when belaying a leader with the Edelrid Pinch versus the Petzl Neox.

First, the real stand out feature of the Petzl Neox is the smoothness of adding slack quickly to the system. The intuitiveness is also exceptional. The spinning wheel inside the housing simplifies keeping up with a quickly moving climber. This is true even when they make a big reach clip. With the Petzl Neox, it is less likely that a belayer will accidentally “short rope” a lead climber. It is also less likely that the device will unintentionally lock up while trying to add slack to the system.

Second, there is no need for a special hand position when feeding slack with the Petzl Neox. This means the device is easily mastered by anyone who can belay well with a standard tube style belay device.

Lead belaying with the Edelrid Pinch feels much more similar to belaying with a Petzl GriGri. Many seasoned climbers are quite familiar with this. The cam can engage when quickly paying out slack. Make sure to use care. The technical details and instructions illustrate a “quick slack” grip method. An advantage of the Edelrid Pinch is its versatility. You can perform the quick slack method whether you are right handed or left handed. This method takes a little practice to do well but isn’t hard to master with some time. The Petzl Neox essentially has a slightly faster learning curve in the hands of a new belayer.

Finally, one notable difference here is the Edelrid Pinch can be connected directly to your belay loop. You do not need a locking carabiner. This keeps the device about 4 inches (10 cm) to your body. This means you can pay out a little more rope with each arm motion. I need to spend more time belaying lead climbers with both of these devices. This will help me decide if this difference is truly noteworthy.

DIRECT ANCHOR BELAY FUNCTION

Both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch can belay a second directly off an anchor. This applies in either a single pitch or multi-pitch setting. There are some differences between the two devices to discuss here.

First, taking slack in with the Petzl Neox is extremely easy thanks to the spinning wheel in the housing. When using a hand on both the load and belay line, the rope pulls through the device like a high efficiency pulley. There is very little noticeable friction. This is a blessing for anyone with a bit of elbow tendinitis. Also with the Petzl Neox rope diameter really doesn’t change the amount of effort pulling slack through the device requires.

The Edelrid Pinch feels quite similar in effort to pulling slack with a Petzl GriGri. Thinner ropes will pull easier than thicker ropes.

They cam almost instantly when presented with a load. This is true, for example, when a seconding climber falls. A brake hand must be properly on the rope to provide some resistance on the other side of the device. There have been some dramatic social media videos shared that how the Petzl Neox will not cam for quite some time in the event of a missing brake hand.

Perhaps the Edelrid Pinch will make some climbers feel a little more secure. It does seem to cam more quickly when a brake hand is absent. However, both devices clearly state in their instructions that a brake hand MUST be present. It must be in the correct position to provide resistance on the brake strand side of the device. Neither of these devices are considered “hands free” in any mode of use!

FIXED POINT BELAY OF LEAD CLIMBER!

The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used in a Fixed Point Belay orientation. This technique of belaying a leader offers advantages in certain situations. It is the first device I know of that the manufacturer actually approves for this use. I will likely experiment more with this option this winter while testing the Edelrid Pinch ice climbing.

LOWERING DIRECTLY FROM ANCHOR

Both devices are capable of lowering smoothly directly from the anchor. Likely the biggest difference here is the Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” feature. This feature is very similar to what Petzl introduced when they released the Petzl GriGri+. By design, if the release lever is pulled too far when lowering, the cam will re-engage. This can happen when lowering from top-rope or directly from the anchor. To continue lowering, the user needs to release the handle back to the start position. Then, pull the handle back down to resume the lower. Alternatively, pull the handle harder to get past the “anti-panic” zone. The latter option is considered “advanced”.

While this “anti-panic” feature is probably good for less experience belayer it might be off-putting to more advanced users. Well Edelrid probably thought of that. They included a small screw. It can be inserted in the device to disable the anti-panic feature. I haven’t disabled the feature yet. I want a little more hands-on experience. This will help me better compare it to the anti-panic feature of the Petzl GriGri+ for a future video.

With either device follow the instructions and redirect your brake strand for a smooth and secure lower.

IMPROVISED HAULING FUNCTION

Both devices function almost identical in a hauling set up. As I mentioned in my detailed video on the Petzl Neox, I initially thought the spinning wheel might add efficiency. I was referring to its use in an improvised haul. However, I later realized the wheel is locked when the device is under tension. Therefore, there is no advantage of hauling with a Petzl Neox over a Petzl GriGri or the Edelrid Pinch. They both function well as progress captures and reduce friction efficiency in the hauling system at about the same level. One last minute detail is the Edelrid Pinch can be attached directly to the anchor without a locking carabiner. This saves you about 4 inches (10 cm) of more efficiency. You have fewer resets in your improvised hauling system.

SINGLE STRAND RAPPELLING (ABSEILING) FUNCTION

Both devices can be used for a single strand rappel. The big difference between the two is similar to the difference mentioned above in the lowering section. The Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” function which is probably most noticeable during a rappel. If you plan to do a lot of rappelling on a single strand, you might want to disable the anti-panic feature. Consider doing this at some point with the Edelrid Pinch. I recommend keeping it engaged for a few rappels first. This will allow you to see which you would prefer more.

ROPE ASCENSION

There is a notable difference in the use of these two devices when ascending a fixed rope. For the most part the Edelrid Pinch feels like a Petzl GriGri as a progress capture during rope ascension. The Petzl Neox makes it noticeably easier to pull rope through the device while standing in your leg loop. This is because the device is not loaded, unlike a haul system, and the wheel spins during that action. On a long rope climb, you will save a little energy with the Petzl Neox. However, exactly how much energy you save is debatable.

SUMMARY

Now for the hard part… which device is best for you? The crowning achievement of the Petzl Neox is the device’s ability to efficiently pay out slack. It can also take in slack as if the rope is just traveling through a pulley. The Petzl Neox is extremely beginner friendly requiring no special hand techniques other than quality PBUS belay technique.

The Edelrid Pinch is kind of breaking the mold here being the first Assisted Braking Device that can attach to the anchor point autonomously. This is a very intriguing design choice. It can be backed up easily with a separate locking carabiner if that is desired. Its function is quite similar to the long-time standard Petzl GriGri. It has an anti-panic feature that the user can decide to disable. It also has a really competitive suggested retail price when compared to any other device in this category.

You are probably already considering these two devices. They are likely options if you are in the market for a new Assisted Braking Device. I hope this comparison video has been informative. It has shown you some of the differences, some which are significant and some which are subtle. If you enjoyed this video, please like, share, and subscribe. Your support helps me cover new climbing gear, clothing, and equipment. It will help you get out into the mountains for some adventure!

Questions?

Let me know in the comments below and I will do my best to respond in a timely manner!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

A media sample of both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch were provided to the author at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!

Efficient Rope Management: Backside of the Clove Hitch Explained

September 23, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips adventure, climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing, travel

I first learned of the “Backside of the Clove Hitch” in 2017 while reading The Mountain Guide Manual and soon after attended a clinic on its use given by Marc Chauvin, one of the authors of this impressive tome of knowledge. Adding this tool to your repertoire will give you more options and problem solving capacity while climbing, especially during transitions. From my experience while many guides use this tool it has been slower to catch on in the greater recreational climbing circles. This post hopes to bring more general awareness of this useful technique.

The rope in the above video is the Mammut Crag Dry Duodess 9.5mm 60m Rope. <- Loving this rope and will have a detailed review soon!

While the most common way to use this technique is to transition from climbing to rappelling it actually can be quite efficient in reverse. Last week my climbing partner and I rappelled down to a semi-hanging belay stance where we needed to pull the rope, then lead back out to the top of the cliff. There are a few ways to do this but utilizing the backside of the clove hitch technique had some real advantages.

One of the biggest advantages with this and the associated “Backside Rappel Feed” is that one of the two climbers can always stay tied in to one end of the rope. This ensures that the party will never drop their rope, and if a middle mark is at the anchor it eliminates the need for a “stopper” knot in the other free end of the rope. The free end will be less likely to get caught somewhere with out a stopper knot, and there is no need to remember to remove the stopper knot.

While the middle mark and being tied in to one end will prevent the potential for rappelling off the end of your rope, pre-rigging the second person to rappel will add even another layer of redundancy. In the avoidable instance where your middle mark is incorrect and you manage to rappel off the free end of your rope, with a pre-rigged partner at the anchor, you will essentially have just gone from a double strand rappel to a single strand rappel. Disaster avoided, but let’s make sure correct middle marks are used instead ok?

In its simplest form, the backside of the clove hitch technique is just using the climbing rope from “behind” the first climber’s clove hitch as a full strength completely adjustable tether. You would do the same thing with a simple overhand on a bight on that strand but the clove hitch allows you to custom the length of the attachment often leading to a more comfortable stance. I can recall many cramped rappel stations where had I known about this technique I would have quickly and easily secured my climbing partner a few feet away from me so we would not be uncomfortably on top of each other at the station.

One very important difference between using the backside of the clove hitch and the more traditional individual “tether” climbers often use is the security of the second climber relies on both clove hitches. The second climber needs to be secured by a different manner before the first climber removes their clove hitch. In the more common situation of transitioning to rappel this is simply done by the second climber pre-rigging themselves on rappel above the first climbers rappel device. Once both climbers are rigged to rappel and checks have been made, all clove hitches can be removed and the first climber can start rappelling (staying tied in on the harness to one of the rope ends).

The steps we took in the below video were intentional since we new that Bob would be leading the pitch and I was familiar with the rappel to get us on route. The most logical option in this situation was for us to set up a pretty standard single rope double strand retrievable rappel, but I would tie in with a retraced figure of eight to one end of the climbing rope and rappel first. The other free end of the rope did not need a stopper knot which reduces the chance of snags (or forgetting to remove it before pulling the rope).

I rappelled down to the belay station, built a quick anchor, and clove hitched myself to the anchor with the climbing rope. After I came off rappel and signaled to Bob he could start descending I tied another clove hitch on the strand “behind” by clove hitch and had a locking carabiner all ready to go to Bob’s belay loop when he arrived. Once he was clipped into that locker he could take himself off rappel, we could pull the free unknotted end of the rope through the top rappel anchor, stacking our rope as we pulled, and when we had the free end in hand Bob only needed to tie-in and get ready to start leading out from our station.

Summary

In recreational climbing it is beneficial to do more with less. A lot of climbers, myself included, use tools like the Petzl Connect Adjust or a sling to tether into the an anchor during a transition. Using the backside of your clove hitch to quicky create a super strong and fully adjustable tether for your parter is a solid skill to have in your tool kit. I hope this post has clearly explained the process and demonstrated some of the benefits of the technique. If you have any questions please share them below!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Get 10% off Rocky Talkies with promo code “AlpineStart10”!

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Mammut Trion 38 Backpack: Features, Performance & Opinions

June 19, 2024 David Lottmann Backpack Reviews, Gear Reviews, hiking, hiking, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Wilderness Survival, winter hiking backpack, backpacking, backpacks, climbing, gear, Gear Reviews, hiking, mountaineering, outdoor gear, outdoor gear reviews, travel

The Mammut Trion 38 backpack is versatile 4 season backpack suitable for summer backpacking trip, winter mountaineering trips, ice climbing and backcountry skiing. If you are looking for a backpack that can perform well in any of these adventures the Mammut Trion 38 deserves a look especially at a sub $200 MRSP!

Let’s start with the manufacturer description and then get into some details and opinions!

Manufacturer Description

The ideal partner for climbing, ski tours, and mountaineering, this versatile pack serves up lightweight comfort and exceptional durability for year-round alpine pursuits. Water-repellent and abrasion-resistant, our full Trion line was developed with pro alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Nico Hojac to optimize every last detail. Made of primarily recycled materials, the Trion 38 offers a host of practical features, including ice axe attachments, quick side access to the main compartment, and a designated avalanche equipment compartment. Complete with contact back system for optimal load transfer, you can stay fully focused on the next move ahead.

Suggested Activities

According to Mammut this pack was designed with these activities in mind. While I like this graphic visual I think it misses “ice climbing” and “cragging” as great uses for this pack, and I’m not even sure what one looks for in a Via Ferrata pack?

Features

Rolltop closure with zipper
Two ice axe attachments
Zippered side access to main compartment
Compartment for avalanche equipment
Elasticated chest strap for optimum comfort and a perfect fit
Large mesh pockets on the shoulder strap
Reinforced side ski attachment
Trekking pole carrier
Hydration system-compatible
Rope attachment on flap
Compression straps can be tensioned at side and front
Comfortable thanks to the anatomically shaped, soft padded hip belt and shoulder straps
Robust, abrasion-proof outer material
Flap with external and internal pockets with key pocket

How I Tested

I tested this pack from mid-March 2024 to June 2024 while leading winter hiking trips above tree line in the White Mountains, teaching avalanche courses, and sneaking in some late season waterfall ice climbing in Dixville Notch. I’ve also taken it one some Spring hiking and climbing trips with loads up to 30 pounds.

Performance & Opinions

On the first day of use I appreciated the roll top with stiffener zippered closure for the main top access. This type of access allows you to really open the top of the pack up to make loading it with a gear quick and easy. With 38 liters (2,400 cubic inches) of space the pack easily swallowed my extra clothes, a 60 meter climbing rope, a full traditional climbing rack, and everything else one needs for a day of adventuring. My 70 ounce hydration bladder slid smoothly into the internal mesh sleeve and the one side zipper access point let me dig out my first aid kit to grab a blister bandage when my hiking partner developed a bit of a hot spot.

While priced closer to a general backpacking pack the Mammut Trion 38 has all the features of high end mountaineering packs. Things like dual ice axe loops that also have the elastic T-shaped pieces to accomodate any type of waterfall or general mountaineering ice axes. Side compression straps that can allow you to securely carry your backcountry skis in an “A-frame” style carry. A large removable top lid with both internal and external pockets.

For comfort the Mammut Trion 38 has a “Motion V Frame” back panel that is lightly padded, breathable, and very form fitting. Unique to a pack this size, in my experience, are the running vest style shoulder straps. I appreciated how wide and distributive the shoulder straps are once I got them properly adjusted and loved the convenience of carrying my iPhone 13 ProMax in the stretchy shoulder strap pockets that I think are more often used by trail runners to carry small bottles of water or energy gels.

Summary

Overall I was impressed with the features, design, and quality of a backpack of this size that retails for less the $200. My only negative was I dislike all black backpacks, but fortunately this pack comes in a nice high visible orange and the brand recognizable white & black. It feels quite spacious at 38 liters and I think there is more then enough carrying capacity for 3-4 day backpacking trips. If you are in the market for a solid all around backpack that can handle a pretty wide array of adventures take a close look at this one. Mammut also has an outstanding warranty and repair program should your pack ever need some TLC!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Get 10% off Rocky Talkies with Promo Code “AlpineStart10” HERE!

A media sample was provided by Mammut for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!