There are many reasons why a climbing party may choose to lower a team member during a descent, for example, very windy conditions. While the Munter Hitch only requires a single HMS style locking carabiner the “Redirected Plate” method is another option that only requires a tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Verso and two locking carabiners (or one if lowering through fixed chains).

This method provides one of the smoothest lowers and is probably the easiest to make sure the rope stays twist free.

• First install the rope onto your tube style belay device as if you were about to belay your partner from your harness. Instead of attaching the belay carabiner to your belay loop attach it to the master point of your anchor.
• Redirect the brake strand through a locking carabiner in the master point of your anchor. It is best if this locking carabiner is slightly smaller than the belay locking carabiner.
• Before lowering attach a third hand fiction hitch to the brake strand and attach that to your belay loop.
• Make sure the system is closed (either you are tied into the other end of the rope or it is knotted near the end). If your rope is already stacked you are now ready to lower.

An efficient use of this technique when rappelling with a single rope is to thread the rope through the fixed gear as the redirect instead of a locking carabiner. That way when the climber reaches the ground, or the next anchor, you can pull more rope through to the middle mark of your rope, remove your tube style device, put yourself on a double strand rappel, and head on down. Or even more crafty conduct a “Reepschneur” Rappel <- upcoming tech tip!

Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice this technique in a safe setting and seek qualified mentorship and instruction.

Questions or Comments? Please share them below!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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