The Redirected Clip-Back Lower provides a smooth lower and the rope will stay twist free if you keep the rope running inline with the belay device. This method works with any tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Verso. Don’t forget to add a third hand friction knot on off your belay loop to the brake strand and close your system!
- First install the rope onto your tube style belay device as if you were about to belay your partner from your harness. Instead of attaching the belay carabiner to your belay loop, attach it to the master point of your anchor.
- Redirect the brake strand through the same locking carabiner so that the brake strand is coming out of the carabiner on the same side as the load strand.
- Before lowering attach a third hand fiction hitch to the brake strand and attach that to your belay loop with a locking carabiner.
- Make sure the system is closed (either you are tied into the other end of the rope or it is knotted near the end). If your rope is already stacked you are now ready to lower.
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice in a safe setting and seek qualified mentors, instructors, and guides.
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See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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