For this review I asked my friend and colleague Dominic Torro to take this Hyperlite Mountain Gear Crux 40 Backpack and run it through the ringer. Over the last year he has tested it across the Beartooth Mountains (MT), Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, 14,000-15,000 foot peaks in Chile, ice climbing, and winter ski mountaineering!
All thoughts and images are courtesy of Dominic. Enjoy!
Overview
The Hyperlite Crux 40 is a lightweight, winter-specific alpine pack built for ski mountaineering, ice climbing, and technical mountain travel. After extended use across a wide range of environments and conditions, it has proven to be comfortable, durable, and thoughtfully designed—though not without a few notable limitations.
Carry & Fit
The Crux 40 carries extremely well and conforms closely to the natural curvature of the spine. Even with heavier winter loads, the pack remains stable and comfortable over long days in technical terrain. For a 40-liter pack, usable volume is excellent, especially when run without the top lid.
External Features
Mesh Shove-It Pocket
The external mesh pocket is one of the standout features of the pack. It’s ideal for quickly stashing layers, gloves, or other frequently accessed items while on the move.
Ski Carry
The A-frame ski carry system works reliably and has performed well in real-world use. A diagonal ski carry option exists but feels secondary and would benefit from further refinement or inclusion as a standard feature.
Rear Entry
Rear-panel access is useful in winter conditions and allows for quick access to gear without fully unpacking the bag. That said, the opening could be slightly larger to improve usability.
Ice Axe Carry System
The ice axe carry system was designed very well with two clips securing the axe heads and a bungee to secure the handle/shaft.
Top Lid (Brain)
The removable top lid is the weakest element of the pack’s design. When the pack is not fully stuffed, the brain does not remain securely attached—even when the straps are fully cinched. On shorter ski missions, the lid has unclipped and fallen off while skiing. As a result, the pack is most often used without the brain, relying instead on the roll-top closure.
Internal Organization & Avalanche Tools
The internal avalanche-tool pockets function well overall and provide efficient, organized access. However, the shovel pocket can interfere with loading a helmet into the top of the main compartment, reducing flexibility in gear configuration.
Durability & Weather Resistance
Durability aligns with expectations from Hyperlite Mountain Gear. The materials are highly abrasion-resistant and effectively waterproof in most conditions. One limitation is the bottom panel: if the pack is left sitting on snow or wet ground for extended periods, moisture can slowly soak through and affect items packed low in the bag, such as insulated layers.
Additional Design Notes
A hydration-port opening is included at the top of the pack. For a winter-focused design, this feature feels unnecessary and can allow snow intrusion when the pack is used in roll-top mode. Perhaps it is meant for an external radio mic like the ones available on Rocky Talkies. The hip belt pocket sits a little too far back, making it difficult to reach without removing the pack. A more forward placement and increased depth would improve accessibility.
Bottom Line
The Hyperlite Mountain Gear Crux 40 Backpack is a capable and well-executed alpine pack with excellent carry comfort, durability, and functional external storage. While the core design is strong, improvements to the top lid security, hip belt pocket placement, avalanche-tool layout, and diagonal ski carry would meaningfully enhance performance. EDITORS NOTE: An optional Diagonal Ski Carry Kit exists but is currently out of stock. It is best suited for users who prefer running the pack without the top lid and want a clean, technical winter platform.
About the Author
Dominic Torro is a backcountry skier and ski mountaineer who grew up in New Hampshire. He has skied across the western United States and internationally, pursuing big-mountain objectives. Dominic is a guide and instructor with Redline Guiding in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, as well as in Vermont and Maine.
Gallery
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With over twenty years of service on multiple Search and Rescue teams in the White Mountains of New Hampshire I’ve had plenty of time to dial in what I carry on missions. My rescue pack is different from my typical guiding pack in a couple ways.
First, I carry more tools for off trail navigation than what I pack for guiding trade routes that I have traveled hundreds of times.
Second, I carry the gear I need to comfortably spend a night out in the woods if need be. In this series I’m going to break down every item in my pack and go into detail about each item, its purpose, and make brand and model recommendations for each piece.
Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass
Despite my affinity for digital GPS navigation I do still carry a quality liquid filled magnetic compass. My requirements for a compass are accuracy, durability, and dependability. For over two decades I’ve relied on the Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass.
This compass checks all my boxes.
Accurate?
The manufacturer claimed accuracy is to 2 degrees and the resolution is also 2 degrees. With the sighting mirror and dual elevation sight-notches I can take very precise bearings in the field. The full length compass when opened supports accurate single point and dual point resection. In practice I’ve covered a few miles of off trail travel, both dense forest areas and barren alpine zones, and found my objective every time with this compass.
Durable?
In twenty years I’ve never broken on of these compasses. They are rugged. I’ve only replaced it once when it went missing during one of the avalanche courses I was teaching. I’m pretty sure a student accidentally took it home after a field session. Speaking of avalanche safety this compass has a built in clinometer which measures slope angle.
Not only is this ability crucial for avalanche safety but it’s helpful with navigation as well. If you’re trying to determine if a nearby peak is higher or lower than your current location a clinometer can accurately answer that for you.
(The back arrow above indicates a 35 degree slope along the top or bottom edge of the clear base plate)
Dependable?
One of the biggest reasons I still carry a physical mirrored compass is because of how often I work in cold weather conditions. Smartphones are very susceptible to the kind of temperature I both recreate in, and serve in when on a SAR mission. Even keeping my iPhone warm in an inner chest pocket I have seen the screen stop working in mere seconds when exposed to below freezing temperatures. I have used my mirrored compass during above tree-line searches in sub-zero temperatures. Suunto claims the liquid used will not freeze until -30° C / -22° F.
For occasional recreational use this compass may be a bit more than you need. For light recreational use I recommend my students purchase a model like the Suunto A-10 NH Compass or better if their budget can afford it.
The Suunto M-3 NH Compass is a good mid-range choice. For professional level use for someone who plans to spend a fair amount of time traveling off the beaten paths I highly recommend the added accuracy of a mirrored compass.
I’ve always found success with Suunto compasses but I have a friend and colleague who teaches Wilderness Survival and Wilderness First Responder Courses and he is a big fan of Brunton, so with his trusted endorsement I am including that brand as well below with some general comments on each high end model.
Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass – If you travel internationally this is the model to get as the patented global needle will work anywhere in the world.
Suunto MC-2 NH Mirrored Compass – If your adventures are contained to the Northern Hemisphere this is the model for you. Took me a hot minute to figure out that “NH” didn’t stand for my beloved state of New Hampshire, but for “Northern Hemisphere”. The needle is designed to float freely anywhere north of the Equator.
Brunton Truarc15 Luminescent Compass– My colleague, who probably spends more time then most traveling through the woods in the dark, is a fan of this compass. It certainly looks to me to be a very solid choice for a professional level compass.
Summary
While this series will likely cover the rest of the “ten essentials” soon I purposely started with the compass before the map. If I had to pick between navigating with only a compass or a map, I would choose a compass. While my improvised/survival navigation skills are quite sharp, a compass lets me follow a very specific bearing into trail-less wilderness in darkness or fog for a few miles, and return back my starting point often within a few dozen feet. This type of competent navigation is only gained through dedicated practice in the field and would be impossible with just a map and no compass.
Get Skilled
If terms like “declination” and “resection” are not familiar to you I would highly suggest seeking out a quality course in Wilderness Navigation. There are many options from free clinics offered by hiking clubs to high level courses. I actually developed my own 8 hour course after not finding a course anywhere that offered the type of classroom/field session lessons I think are effective. Feel free to reach out if you’d like to book a Wilderness Navigation Course with me! I also have a small selection of YouTube videos covering some compass topics you can check out here!
Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue
Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:
While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.
Comments? Questions?
Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to compasses or my suggestions. Let me know what your favorite compass model is! Do you feel competent with compass navigation? Have you practiced recently?
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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This winter I have been using the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe for guiding winter Mount Washington ascents. I have also been using it for teaching mountaineering skills courses. The bottom line? This is a solid choice for a general mountaineering axe with some nice features. I chose the 68 centimeter size for my 5’9″ height. The axe is also available in 50, 60, and 75 centimeter lengths. The 68 centimeter size weighs 365 grams.
The head of the axe has a classic shaped pick which is most effective for self-arrest. The sharper and more aggressive tip of the pick is suitable for overcoming the occasional ice bulge. The adze is wider than most similar style axes. It provides a comfortable grip when using the traveling hand position (piolet panne). The small concave dip at the top of the shaft adds comfort for the self-arrest grip. The tool comes with the “LINKIN” removable leash, a $20 value. Personally I don’t like to use leashes on my ice tools so I did remove it before testing.
A removable pick protector is included. For casual climbs without much fall hazard I think it makes sense to leave the tip protector on. As your route becomes more technical with occasional ice bulges and more exposure to long sliding falls I would choose to leave the protector at home or in the car at the trail-head.
A removable spike protector is included as well. I liked how I could slide this up the tool during a casual ascent. This way, it would not interfere with proper “piolet canne” technique. After the axe was put back on my pack and I took my trekking poles out it was quick and easy to cover the sharp spike.
After a half dozen trips into the mountains with the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe, I can easily recommend it. It is suitable for anyone shopping for a well-designed general mountaineering axe. More important than what axe you buy though is that you seek out the training in its proper use. Consider taking a Mountaineering Skills Course so that you can learn proper crampon and ice axe technique before relying on this equipment to protect you. You can use the contact page here to check my availability if you would like to request me as your guide.
Here is a quick video we shot yesterday after a successful summit of Mount Washington where I point out basic nomenclature of a mountaineering axe.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
The Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch are the two biggest additions to the growing market of Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs). Many of you might be wondering which device is the right one for you.
In this video, I will show the key differences between each device. This will help you make an informed decision on which device is best for you. This is not an in-depth review of either device. More in-depth reviews of each device will be linked below in the description as they are published. Below the video is a transcript with greater detail than what I had time to convey in the video. Feel free to skip to any section you would like more information on!
COST
To start our comparison let’s look at retail cost. The manufacturer suggested retail price of the Petzl Neox is $149.95 USD ($€29 Euros) and the Edelrid Pinch is $119.95 USD (€99.95). The difference of $30 USD is not insignificant. The Petzl Neox must be paired with a locking carabiner to function. In contrast, the Edelrid Pinch can be used without a locking carabiner. For comparison the recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner is $18.95 USD.
WEIGHT
Next let’s look at the difference in weight. The Petzl Neox claimed weight is 235 grams. The Edelrid Pinch claimed weight is 234 grams. That’s only 1 gram difference so even Steven right? Well not quite. You see the Edelrid Pinch is designed to be usable without a locking carabiner. It has a secure locking attachment point. You can connect it to any belay loop or master point that is a minimum of 10mm in width. I’ve seen some guides on social media adding a locking carabiner as a sort of “double” lock on the setup. While there isn’t really anything wrong with being “extra” safe, I haven’t seen any reason for concern. This is true when the device is installed properly without using an extra locking carabiner. So, for comparison reasons, the Edelrid Pinch is one locking carabiner lighter. This makes it lighter than a usable Petzl Neox. The recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner weighs 46 grams for comparison.
SIZE
Size wise they are pretty similar. The Petzl Neox is about 4 ¼ inches (10.76 cm) long and 2 ½ inches (6.35 cm) wide and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The Edelrid Pinch is 5 ½ inches (14 cm) long and 2 ¾ inches (7 cm) and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The difference in dimensions is quite minimal. However, you could factor in the additional size of a locking carabiner for the Petzl Neox to function. This may not matter much from a pack-ability standpoint. We will discuss later how having the Edelrid Pinch connected directly to your harness belay loop might be more efficient. It could also be attached to the anchor master point during belays for added efficiency.
ROPE SIZE
The Petzl Neox is approved to be used with single rated climbing ropes between 8.5 and 11 millimeters. The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used with single rated dynamic ropes between 8.5 and 10.5 millimeters and static ropes between 10 to 10.5 millimeters. I haven’t climbed on a single rated rope thicker than 10.5 millimeters in a couple of decades so I don’t think this difference is very notable. It is interesting that the usable threshold for static rope is mentioned to be smaller. I’m not sure exactly why that is. This answer probably is not very relevant to most potential users. Most static ropes likely fall within the 10 to 10.5 millimeter range.
LEAD BELAY FUNCTION
There are some pretty noticeable differences when belaying a leader with the Edelrid Pinch versus the Petzl Neox.
First, the real stand out feature of the Petzl Neox is the smoothness of adding slack quickly to the system. The intuitiveness is also exceptional. The spinning wheel inside the housing simplifies keeping up with a quickly moving climber. This is true even when they make a big reach clip. With the Petzl Neox, it is less likely that a belayer will accidentally “short rope” a lead climber. It is also less likely that the device will unintentionally lock up while trying to add slack to the system.
Second, there is no need for a special hand position when feeding slack with the Petzl Neox. This means the device is easily mastered by anyone who can belay well with a standard tube style belay device.
Lead belaying with the Edelrid Pinch feels much more similar to belaying with a Petzl GriGri. Many seasoned climbers are quite familiar with this. The cam can engage when quickly paying out slack. Make sure to use care. The technical details and instructions illustrate a “quick slack” grip method. An advantage of the Edelrid Pinch is its versatility. You can perform the quick slack method whether you are right handed or left handed. This method takes a little practice to do well but isn’t hard to master with some time. The Petzl Neox essentially has a slightly faster learning curve in the hands of a new belayer.
Finally, one notable difference here is the Edelrid Pinch can be connected directly to your belay loop. You do not need a locking carabiner. This keeps the device about 4 inches (10 cm) to your body. This means you can pay out a little more rope with each arm motion. I need to spend more time belaying lead climbers with both of these devices. This will help me decide if this difference is truly noteworthy.
DIRECT ANCHOR BELAY FUNCTION
Both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch can belay a second directly off an anchor. This applies in either a single pitch or multi-pitch setting. There are some differences between the two devices to discuss here.
First, taking slack in with the Petzl Neox is extremely easy thanks to the spinning wheel in the housing. When using a hand on both the load and belay line, the rope pulls through the device like a high efficiency pulley. There is very little noticeable friction. This is a blessing for anyone with a bit of elbow tendinitis. Also with the Petzl Neox rope diameter really doesn’t change the amount of effort pulling slack through the device requires.
The Edelrid Pinch feels quite similar in effort to pulling slack with a Petzl GriGri. Thinner ropes will pull easier than thicker ropes.
They cam almost instantly when presented with a load. This is true, for example, when a seconding climber falls. A brake hand must be properly on the rope to provide some resistance on the other side of the device. There have been some dramatic social media videos shared that how the Petzl Neox will not cam for quite some time in the event of a missing brake hand.
Perhaps the Edelrid Pinch will make some climbers feel a little more secure. It does seem to cam more quickly when a brake hand is absent. However, both devices clearly state in their instructions that a brake hand MUST be present. It must be in the correct position to provide resistance on the brake strand side of the device. Neither of these devices are considered “hands free” in any mode of use!
FIXED POINT BELAY OF LEAD CLIMBER!
The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used in a Fixed Point Belay orientation. This technique of belaying a leader offers advantages in certain situations. It is the first device I know of that the manufacturer actually approves for this use. I will likely experiment more with this option this winter while testing the Edelrid Pinch ice climbing.
LOWERING DIRECTLY FROM ANCHOR
Both devices are capable of lowering smoothly directly from the anchor. Likely the biggest difference here is the Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” feature. This feature is very similar to what Petzl introduced when they released the Petzl GriGri+. By design, if the release lever is pulled too far when lowering, the cam will re-engage. This can happen when lowering from top-rope or directly from the anchor. To continue lowering, the user needs to release the handle back to the start position. Then, pull the handle back down to resume the lower. Alternatively, pull the handle harder to get past the “anti-panic” zone. The latter option is considered “advanced”.
While this “anti-panic” feature is probably good for less experience belayer it might be off-putting to more advanced users. Well Edelrid probably thought of that. They included a small screw. It can be inserted in the device to disable the anti-panic feature. I haven’t disabled the feature yet. I want a little more hands-on experience. This will help me better compare it to the anti-panic feature of the Petzl GriGri+ for a future video.
With either device follow the instructions and redirect your brake strand for a smooth and secure lower.
IMPROVISED HAULING FUNCTION
Both devices function almost identical in a hauling set up. As I mentioned in my detailed video on the Petzl Neox, I initially thought the spinning wheel might add efficiency. I was referring to its use in an improvised haul. However, I later realized the wheel is locked when the device is under tension. Therefore, there is no advantage of hauling with a Petzl Neox over a Petzl GriGri or the Edelrid Pinch. They both function well as progress captures and reduce friction efficiency in the hauling system at about the same level. One last minute detail is the Edelrid Pinch can be attached directly to the anchor without a locking carabiner. This saves you about 4 inches (10 cm) of more efficiency. You have fewer resets in your improvised hauling system.
SINGLE STRAND RAPPELLING (ABSEILING) FUNCTION
Both devices can be used for a single strand rappel. The big difference between the two is similar to the difference mentioned above in the lowering section. The Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” function which is probably most noticeable during a rappel. If you plan to do a lot of rappelling on a single strand, you might want to disable the anti-panic feature. Consider doing this at some point with the Edelrid Pinch. I recommend keeping it engaged for a few rappels first. This will allow you to see which you would prefer more.
ROPE ASCENSION
There is a notable difference in the use of these two devices when ascending a fixed rope. For the most part the Edelrid Pinch feels like a Petzl GriGri as a progress capture during rope ascension. The Petzl Neox makes it noticeably easier to pull rope through the device while standing in your leg loop. This is because the device is not loaded, unlike a haul system, and the wheel spins during that action. On a long rope climb, you will save a little energy with the Petzl Neox. However, exactly how much energy you save is debatable.
SUMMARY
Now for the hard part… which device is best for you? The crowning achievement of the Petzl Neox is the device’s ability to efficiently pay out slack. It can also take in slack as if the rope is just traveling through a pulley. The Petzl Neox is extremely beginner friendly requiring no special hand techniques other than quality PBUS belay technique.
The Edelrid Pinch is kind of breaking the mold here being the first Assisted Braking Device that can attach to the anchor point autonomously. This is a very intriguing design choice. It can be backed up easily with a separate locking carabiner if that is desired. Its function is quite similar to the long-time standard Petzl GriGri. It has an anti-panic feature that the user can decide to disable. It also has a really competitive suggested retail price when compared to any other device in this category.
You are probably already considering these two devices. They are likely options if you are in the market for a new Assisted Braking Device. I hope this comparison video has been informative. It has shown you some of the differences, some which are significant and some which are subtle. If you enjoyed this video, please like, share, and subscribe. Your support helps me cover new climbing gear, clothing, and equipment. It will help you get out into the mountains for some adventure!
Questions?
Let me know in the comments below and I will do my best to respond in a timely manner!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
A media sample of both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch were provided to the author at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!
I first learned of the “Backside of the Clove Hitch” in 2017 while reading The Mountain Guide Manual and soon after attended a clinic on its use given by Marc Chauvin, one of the authors of this impressive tome of knowledge. Adding this tool to your repertoire will give you more options and problem solving capacity while climbing, especially during transitions. From my experience while many guides use this tool it has been slower to catch on in the greater recreational climbing circles. This post hopes to bring more general awareness of this useful technique.
While the most common way to use this technique is to transition from climbing to rappelling it actually can be quite efficient in reverse. Last week my climbing partner and I rappelled down to a semi-hanging belay stance where we needed to pull the rope, then lead back out to the top of the cliff. There are a few ways to do this but utilizing the backside of the clove hitch technique had some real advantages.
One of the biggest advantages with this and the associated “Backside Rappel Feed” is that one of the two climbers can always stay tied in to one end of the rope. This ensures that the party will never drop their rope, and if a middle mark is at the anchor it eliminates the need for a “stopper” knot in the other free end of the rope. The free end will be less likely to get caught somewhere with out a stopper knot, and there is no need to remember to remove the stopper knot.
While the middle mark and being tied in to one end will prevent the potential for rappelling off the end of your rope, pre-rigging the second person to rappel will add even another layer of redundancy. In the avoidable instance where your middle mark is incorrect and you manage to rappel off the free end of your rope, with a pre-rigged partner at the anchor, you will essentially have just gone from a double strand rappel to a single strand rappel. Disaster avoided, but let’s make sure correct middle marks are used instead ok?
In its simplest form, the backside of the clove hitch technique is just using the climbing rope from “behind” the first climber’s clove hitch as a full strength completely adjustable tether. You would do the same thing with a simple overhand on a bight on that strand but the clove hitch allows you to custom the length of the attachment often leading to a more comfortable stance. I can recall many cramped rappel stations where had I known about this technique I would have quickly and easily secured my climbing partner a few feet away from me so we would not be uncomfortably on top of each other at the station.
One very important difference between using the backside of the clove hitch and the more traditional individual “tether” climbers often use is the security of the second climber relies on both clove hitches. The second climber needs to be secured by a different manner before the first climber removes their clove hitch. In the more common situation of transitioning to rappel this is simply done by the second climber pre-rigging themselves on rappel above the first climbers rappel device. Once both climbers are rigged to rappel and checks have been made, all clove hitches can be removed and the first climber can start rappelling (staying tied in on the harness to one of the rope ends).
The steps we took in the below video were intentional since we new that Bob would be leading the pitch and I was familiar with the rappel to get us on route. The most logical option in this situation was for us to set up a pretty standard single rope double strand retrievable rappel, but I would tie in with a retraced figure of eight to one end of the climbing rope and rappel first. The other free end of the rope did not need a stopper knot which reduces the chance of snags (or forgetting to remove it before pulling the rope).
I rappelled down to the belay station, built a quick anchor, and clove hitched myself to the anchor with the climbing rope. After I came off rappel and signaled to Bob he could start descending I tied another clove hitch on the strand “behind” by clove hitch and had a locking carabiner all ready to go to Bob’s belay loop when he arrived. Once he was clipped into that locker he could take himself off rappel, we could pull the free unknotted end of the rope through the top rappel anchor, stacking our rope as we pulled, and when we had the free end in hand Bob only needed to tie-in and get ready to start leading out from our station.
Summary
In recreational climbing it is beneficial to do more with less. A lot of climbers, myself included, use tools like the Petzl Connect Adjust or a sling to tether into the an anchor during a transition. Using the backside of your clove hitch to quicky create a super strong and fully adjustable tether for your parter is a solid skill to have in your tool kit. I hope this post has clearly explained the process and demonstrated some of the benefits of the technique. If you have any questions please share them below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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Disclaimer: Some of the techniques discussed in this post require advanced knowledge of technical rope systems in a vertical environment. Subtleties and nuances abound. Seek qualified instruction from an AMGA certified guide or experienced mentor. Climbing is inherently dangerous, you do so at your own risk. Affiliate links below support this blog.
Using a Petzl Nano Traxion Progress Capture Device to belay my second on low fifth class slab terrain.
For over a year I have caught a few social media posts of highly certified guides belaying their clients non-traditionally with a Progress Capture Device or “PCD”. This technique has crept into the recreational climbers tool kit and for good reason, it has some real real advantages over belaying with a more traditional plaquette (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) or the common Assisted Braking Devices “ABDs” the Petzl Gri Gri 2, Petzl Gri Gri+, the new Petzl Neox.
Choosing to belay with a PCD should be an informed and conscious decision and I hope this post will give you some of the information you should consider when making that decision. The biggest piece of this puzzle simply comes down to appropriate terrain.
Terrain– This technique is most suitable of belaying a second in 4th and easy 5th class terrain where the probability of a fall is low and the climber is moving at a higher rate of speed. Basically if the second isn’t moving faster then 1 meter a second (3 feet a second) you likely should belay with a more traditional method like a plaquette or ABD.
This low 5th class slab climbing terrain is one example of where belaying with a PCD might be a good choice
Manage Slack– It is imperative with any “toothed” PCD to have minimal slack in the system as the second is climbing. This should be manageable given the lack of resistance when pulling rope, especially through the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Micro Traxion. All three of the PCDs I link below have technical documentation that indicate a load over 4kN or more will lead to sheath damage. If slack is removed while the second climbs, especially towards the end of the pitch when there is less dynamic rope in the system, it should be easy to avoid a 4kN load on the PCD.
Image from Petzl.com
Have Improvised Rescue Skills– This point is well illustrated by the amount of climbers who use plaquette style devices (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) but have yet to practice lowering from a loaded device. As mentioned earlier using a PCD to belay a second should be in terrain where a fall or lower is not expected. If either of those two things could be needed I would likely choose a different belay technique, however, unexpected does happen. If you are experienced enough to belay your second with a PCD you should have a solid understanding of release-able load transfers. You should have the skills to swap a loaded PCD with something that would allow a smooth lower (Munter Hitch, LSD, Gri Gri, etc). Making this transition safely and smoothly is something best learned from a qualified guide or instructor. (These skills are covered and practiced in my custom Self Rescue Course, send a message if interested in that curriculum).
* Compatible with the PUR’LINE 6 MM cord only for hauling a pack
* Compatible with the RAD LINE 6 MM cord (more information in the Instructions for Use at http://www.petzl.com)
The Petzl Tibloc is obviously the lightest and most affordable of the three Petzl PCDs I’m comparing here. It is well established as an excellent ultralight weight device for glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and improvised rescue. The addition of the spring loaded mechanism to initiate capture on the newest model of the Petzl Tibloc means it can work as a belay for a second, however, the lack of a pulley means you will feel noticeable more resistance when pulling slack through the system. For this reason alone I think it is worth considering one of the other two options from Petzl, especially now that there is a choice that weights only 16 grams more. Additionally, care needs to be used when installing the Petzl Tibloc to insure the rope passes through the locking carabiner and not just the device!
Image from Petzl.com
The Petzl Nano Traxion, while costing twice as much as the Petzl Tibloc, has a lot going for it. First, it incorporates a highly efficient (91%) pulley, which makes pulling in slack, regardless of diameter, quite effortless. At only 53 grams it is the lightest PCD + Pulley I have ever tested. Paired with a Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner and a home tied keeper cord this set up has become the newest edition to the back gear loop on my harness.
Image from Petzl.com
The Petzl Micro Traxion is the most expensive and heaviest of these options. The only real advantage of this model is the added mechanism that allows you to lock the cam in the open position so you can use the device as a simple pulley. It’s a pretty small addition to justify the additional cost and weight over the Petzl Nano Traxion.
Context matters. Here I am belaying two fast moving seconds on a YDS 5.1 180 foot long slab pitch. This set up allowed me to keep up with both of them as they climbed the pitch in under 3 minutes.
Compatible Carabiners
My favorite carabiner for all three of these PCDs is the Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner. This small lightweight locking carabiner features a red indicator that aids in visually confirming if it is locked or not and a small hole for attaching a keeper cord to any of these devices. I’m also a fan of the Petzl OK Triact Auto Locking Carabiner and the Petzl OK Ball-Lock Carabiner especially when matched with the Petzl Tibloc.
Deal Alert
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Summary
Climbing techniques continue to evolve with advances in methodology often happening at the highest levels of the sport (certified climbing guides and accredited organizations) and then disseminate to the more general practioners. Belaying with a PCD can lead to efficiency and increased safety in certain climbing situations. Keep in mind the choice should be well informed and consider; terrain, managed slack, and your ability to problem solve unlikely scenarios like needing to transition to an unexpected lower. If you do find yourself in situations where this technique would work for you consider adding the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner to your kit. After 1400 feet of moderate slab climbing this past weekend with two of my friends my elbows were quite happy I was familiar with this option!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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The last few months I’ve been testing out Black Diamond’s newest addition to the ultralight backpack market, the Black Diamond Beta Light 45. I’ve primarily been using it to haul 20 to 30 pounds of climbing gear while running over a dozen climbing trips in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I’ve also carried it with an overnight load on a few search and rescue missions. With over 100 miles of trail use I’m ready to share my thoughts on this pack! First the manufacturer descriptions and technical specifications:
Manufacturer Description
The Beta Light 45L is our answer to the ultralight backpacking revolution. Inspired by our athletes and utilizing a running-vest style suspension harness system from our distance running series packs, the Beta Light 45L is simply built for moving fast on overnight adventures in the backcountry. Whether you’re spending months on the PCT or making the most of a two-week trip, the Beta Light 45L carries all the essentials in a weatherproof, sleek design that doesn’t sacrifice comfort.
Built for moving fast and covering long distances, the Beta Light UL 45 is the ultimate blend of durability, lightweight construction and load carrying comfort. We partnered with Challenge Sailcloth to bring their Ultra 200 body fabric to our Beta Light series to create one of the lightest yet most durable packs on the trail. This durable fabric, combined with taped seams and a roll-top closure, make the pack weatherproof and able to stand up to day-in-day-out use. A simple, Power Mesh stretch pocket and two side pockets provide plenty of external storage options, while the pack’s running-vest inspired shoulder strap harness system provides support and comfort with additional snack pockets and water bottle storage options. A removable hip belt, lightweight aluminum frame, and removable foam back panel provide options for reducing weight even more.
Product Features
Challenge Sailcloth Ultra 200 body fabric is lightweight, tear resistant and extremely durable
Running vest-inspired shoulder straps with extra storage pockets makes for comfortable and dynamic carrying system
Roll-top closure, taped seams and waterproof fabric create weatherproof pack body
Removable frame pad gives structure with minimal weight penalty
External Power Mesh stretch outer pocket and two oversized ripstop side pockets
Removable hip belt system can reduce weight or allow for user modification
Four adjustable and removable Dynex core compression straps secure the pack and allow for alternative adjustment and lashing systems
Internal sleeve is hydration bladder compatible
Modular Design allows quick and secure attachment of the Beta Light Satellite 4L Bag for additional storage
Opinions
Not considering myself a “trail runner” the first thing I noticed when unboxing this pack was the “running-vest” style shoulder strap system. This was the first time I would be using this style suspension system on a pack of this size. I’ll be honest, I was skeptical. For a pack that claims to be able to carry up to 40 pounds how could this style of shoulder strap work out for me? Being open minded helps, and I came to realize you can substitute area for padding of traditional shoulder strap systems and still have quite a comfortable carry. If you’ve never used a running vest style shoulder strap system it may seem weird for a minute. After the first dozen of miles of carrying 30+ loads I saw how these wide contoured thin shoulder straps efficiently distributed the weight in a comfortable manner.
The next aspect of this pack that got my attention is the extremely rugged and light “Ultra 200 Sail Cloth”. It feels like flexible invincible steel. With taped seams and 400 weight on the bottom of the pack I have a lot of confidence in the miles and abuse this pack will handle before any wear is shown. Like many packs of this category they are just made of something different then the old school Nylon Cordura products that had a sub-decade type lifetime. This pack is built to last for more than a decade of adventures, and I’ve been saying it for over a decade consider that when price comparing packs made from less impressive fabrics.
The third standout feature in my opinion is the huge stretchy external back pocket. I used this most often for my chalk bag and my rain jacket, but there’s so much more room here if needed! On a recent SAR mission it easily accepted my full length rolled sleeping pad. The oversized side pockets with angled top designs easily secure traditional 32 ounce wide mount Nalgenes.
As I work my way down the features of this pack I have to appreciate the large roll top opening that lets me dump whole racks of traditional climbing gear, a 60 meter climbing rope, and everything else I need for a day of multi-pitch rock climbing. The roll top closure combined with this fabric makes the pack feel quite water and weather resistant. With limited experience with running style shoulder straps I really liked the stretchy pockets on both shoulder straps using the left side open one to keep my iPhone 13Pro Max secure and accessible and the zippered pocket on the right to stash an assortment of on-the-go snacks.
Summary
While I have a lot of experience testing ultralight backpacks this was the first larger model I’ve tested with a running style shoulder strap system and I can see the merits of this design. Loads up to 30 pounds were quite comfortable to carry and I liked the stream line design of the pack without really any extraneous additions. The pack is made of incredibly robust yet super light fabric and I have no doubt it will hold up well to thousands of miles of adventure. This pack is well designed for Thru-hikers, ultralight backpackers, rock climbers, and mountaineers. If you are interested in shaving some ounces off your 45 liter size backpack while maintaining a comfortable carry and durable design the Black Diamond Beta Light 45 should be on your radar!
A media sample of this backpack was provided at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
I’ve now had the Petzl Neox for about two weeks and have been able to form some opinions and test it in applications I’m most interested in. The most recent day I spent at the cliff with it was focused on seeing how it performed as a progress capture in an improvised hauling system and in a rope ascension system. Both these uses are important to me for assisting a seconding climber or rescuing an injured lead climber, and places where I would traditionally be using a Petzl GriGri. Here is some raw footage of this round of testing and some of my thoughts.
I assumed the Petzl Neox would work great for progress capture in this systems due to the spinning internal cog wheel and it definitely felt efficient in both the hauling scenario and the rope climbing scenario. I will be doing another round of comparisons with a more realistic full body weight load on the system but the fact the wheel still spun in my rope ascension test leads me to think it will still spin with a full load in a hauling system. This took me a little while to wrap my head around because you can seen when the device sees a full load while single strand rappelling the cam rotates, the wheel stops spinning, and you control your descent with the friction of the rope moving through the created bend. Why wouldn’t the wheel rotate and lock like that while using it as a progress capture?
The answer comes down to physics and while not having anything close to a degree in physics I can see how the device isn’t getting the full load in these scenarios. The full load is on the “tractor”, or friction hitch, or the Petzl Tibloc. When you go to pull slack through the Petzl Neox at that part of the cycle there is almost no weight on the device so the cam does not engage and the wheel spins freely reducing effort in hauling and ascending. When you relax during the hauling process all the load goes back to the Petzl Neox and the cam engages. Same with ascending, when you transfer your weight from your foot loop back to your harness the necessary threshold is exceeded and the cam engages. When you put your weight into your foot loop to progress the weight comes off the device and it is easier to pull the slack through the device then the Petzl GriGri.
Summary
It is still early in our broader exposure to this new belay device but the videos have been pouring out from influencers, highly certified guides, and rock star YouTuber’s. My opinion will likely evolve over the course of the summer as I put more days on the device, and expose more beginner climbers to it. For now I will re-iterate that I really like how easy it is to pull slack while belaying from above, and the more I think about it I do think this device may be in someways safer for a newer belayer as the instructions basically encourage you to not tough the device while paying out slack. This device may help prevent the holding open of the cam at risky moments which was likely part of the motivation of the anti-panic feature that came with the Petzl GriGri+.
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I am really excited to announce I’ve partnered with HowNot2.com and can now offer my followers a 10% discount on anything you purchase at hownot2.com and support what I am doing with discount code “NEAlpineStart” <- capitalization does not matter!
See you in the mountains!
I hope this information is helpful for your to make an informed decision. While Petzl supplied me with a Neox to review this is not a sponsored post. Affiliate links above help me continue to spend time creating these videos and posts and I thank you for your support!
Today I was able to get out to the cliff for a short bit to check out the newly released assisted blocking belay device, the Petzl Neox.
This is not a full in-depth review. It is a preliminary look at this new option in assisted blocking belay devices and I try to distinguish some of the obvious differences in the Petzl Neox, the Petzl GriGri, and the Petzl GriGri+. As time allows I will be diving more deeply into the topics I mention in the video. In the meantime please check out my initial thoughts and if you haven’t already please subscribe to the YouTube channel so I can keep sharing this type of content with all of you!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no addition cost to you. Thank you!
Earlier this year I received a sweet duffle bag and backpack from Free Range Equipment. This small brother & sister company with its roots in the Cascades has partnered with two dozen artists to create an assortment of visually stunning canvas packs. I received the Picket Range Duffel with art by Nikki Frumkin and the Dusk at Shuksan Pack with art by Gianna Andrews. I selected these two packs as I climbed Shuksan in 2017 as my first Cascade summit and during that same trip climbed Rainier and Forbidden Peak which isn’t too far from the Picket Range. I’ve wanted to get back to the Cascades for another climbing trip and the artwork on both these will keep reminding me I need to make a return trip soon!
I don’t usually review non-technical packs and these are designed more for travel and day-to-day type use, but I feel I’ve used them enough to share some opinions on them. The craftmanship of both is easily apparent even to the untrained eye. The canvas is thick and rugged, the zippers and stitch work are obviously high quality. The duffle is listed as 55 liters which makes it useful for for everything from a crag bag to regular travel luggage. A concealed backpack system is so concealed I didn’t even realize it was there until my second trip with the pack!
The smaller backpack is listed at 25 liters. It’s a perfect size for a gym or commuter bag and can easily hold my harness, climbing shoes, laptop, water and snacks for a trip to the local park, coffee shop, or climbing gym! It’s got a nice sized internal mesh pocket, a top pocket, etc, but there isn’t to much more for me to comment on with these packs, other than they are eye catching in the best way. I admit I’ve never been artistically talented but I love the style of both these artists and if you take a minute to look through all the offerings on the Free Range website you’ll likely find something that catches your eye.
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See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Media samples were provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you.
