What’s in a Rescuer’s Pack Series- Part 2 Digital Map (and maybe a physical backup)

September 18, 2025October 27, 2025 David Lottmann adventure travel, Climbing Education, hiking, Land Navigation, Mountaineering, Professional Development, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips, Wilderness Medicine, Wilderness Navigation, Wilderness Survival, winter hiking adventure travel, backpacking, climbing, digital mapping, hiking, Land Navigation, mountaineering, online mapping, search and rescue, Wilderness Navigation, Wilderness Survival

Using Smartphones for Wilderness Navigation

In my last post I shared my opinions on why carrying a physical mirrored compass while hiking is still relevant. Physical compasses are important in both outdoor recreation and professional SAR despite modern smartphone technology. In this post will show my preference for digital mapping over physical maps.

There are some disclaimers and caveats to get out of the way here. Relying on only a cell phone app with no foundation of true navigational skills with traditional map & compass is really a gamble. At some point your cell phone battery will die. It will be too cold for your cell phone to function. You’ll drop your phone in a raging current or deep powder snow and have to go without. I’ll say it one more time…

DO NOT rely on smartphone navigation as your ONLY source of navigation.

But can it be your primary source of navigation? Heck yeah! It’s been 10 years since I wrote this article, Should you use a Smartphone for Wilderness Navigation? in which I make a strong case for the use of smartphone apps for navigation.

Ten years later I still stand behind my arguments in this opinion piece. Even better smartphone batteries have made large advancements in how much juice they can store. Digital displays have improved in resolution, brightness, and color. When I first wrote that piece I was using the iPhone 6 model! Today my iPhone 13 Pro is my main digital navigation tool with some apps I will get into below.

I still do not own a stand alone GPS unit. However, they still have a place in the outdoor recreation and rescue industry. They have a few advantages of smartphone GPS apps for navigation.

Much more durable. Quality handheld GPS units are typically waterproof to at least 30 feet. They can withstand significant impacts that would destroy a smartphone.
Much longer battery life. Most models can run full tracking for over 150 hours without being recharged.
The best models can double as a two-way satellite communication device. This point is less important if your smartphone has satellite communication ability as well.

I would invest in a standalone GPS device if I often embarked on extended trips (a week or longer). This device would serve as a backup communication device in remote parts of the world. After looking at the current market of these devices, I would lean toward the Garmin GPSMap67i. It is a well-reviewed high-end choice in the field of GPS navigation devices with satellite communication feature.

You can rely on your smartphone for navigation like I do. You can find success if you follow a few key tenets. Here are my 8 commandments.

Thou shalt use a proper mapping navigation app (NOT AllTrails).
Thou shall pre-download maps and topographical data while connected to a WIFI or Data network. Do this before leaving civilization.
Thou shall start the hike with a smartphone charged to 100% when you leave the trail head
Thou shall close all unneeded apps. Turn off WiFi and Bluetooth manually. Turn on Airplane Mode. Turn down screen brightness to the lowest usable level.
Thou shall keep your smartphone warm.
Thou shall carry battery backup on extended trips.
Thou shall use Bluetooth headphones if one must listen to music
Thou shall still be capable of navigating should thou smartphone unexpectedly stop working

For more than ten years I’ve been using CalTopo.com on my laptop to create custom maps for both recreational hiking, guiding, and search and rescue missions. I then download the created geospatial PDF’s into the free Avenza app for off-grid use in the field. CalTopo does have an excellent app that you can use. However, I still find it more efficient to create the detailed maps I want on a laptop or desktop platform. It is easier than doing it on a smartphone app.

One of the coolest newer features of the CalTopo software is the ability for SAR teams to enable live tracking. Any group who purchases a “Teams” account can do this for everyone on the team. This feature can allow team members and rescue commanders to see real time locations of members of the search team. Members must be connected to the network by either cellular data. Alternatively, they can link a GPS device like the Garmin inReach Mini 2. This is a powerful tool that rescue commanders can use to track dozens of search teams over large geographic areas!

Other apps worth looking at are MilGPS, Gaia GPS, PeakFinder, and Theodolite. I will do a more detailed breakdown of these apps in a future post.

Using Smartphone for Wilderness Navigation — *MilGPS app*

Smartphone apps are complex. They could be using a lot of power in the background. The safe bet is just to close all apps you are not using. I pretty much only have Avenza/CalTopo, Strava, and the Camera app occasionally running during my trips.

While Airplane mode should turn off WiFi and Bluetooth, these can both be turned back on while in Airplane mode. I think it is best to turn them both off individually. This way, if you come out of Airplane mode to make an emergency call, you don’t accidentally leave WiFi on. You don’t accidentally leave Bluetooth running. This also applies to an “I’m running late” call when you don’t need those connections.

Screen brightness probably has a smaller effect on battery life but every bit can help.

Cold can drain cell phone batteries even if the phone is powered down. Do not carry your smartphone in the top pocket of your backpack in cold conditions. I prefer a hip pocket or chest pocket for winter conditions.

If I’m expected to be out for more than 48 hours, I will pack a backup charger. I prefer options like the Anker Portable 325 PowerBank. There are dozens of other options out there but I would look for store at least 20000mAh of juice!

If you need to listen to music or podcasts while hiking, Bluetooth headphones are a great choice. They will save your phone a lot of battery. This is especially true compared to using the smartphone’s external speakers. The same applies if you’re sleeping in a tent during windy conditions or in a crowded, snoring bunkhouse.

Having a backup paper map is easy insurance against a smartphone failure. I will be honest and say I do not always carry a paper back up with me. I justify this by being very diligent with conserving my battery life. I keep my phone warm in cold environments. I also keep it secure in either a zippered pocket. In a more vertical environment, I tether it to my body with a retractable lanyard.

If you have access to a quality color printer you can print very detailed custom maps directly from CalTopo. If I have the time, I often send the Geospatial PDF’s I’ve created to the local UPS Store. Sometimes, I send them to Staples for laminated color copies. For a SAR mission that is likely short, I rarely carry a detailed paper map. These missions usually conclude in less than 24 hours. I will have the regional AMC White Mountain National Forest Maps for the area I will be in. This way, I can perform resection from any vantage points along my route. I will do this if my digital tools are failing.

Get Skilled

There are some great, and not so great, books on navigation you can learn from. A couple of my favorites:

The Essential Wilderness Navigator: How to Find Your Way in the Great Outdoors, 2nd Ed.

Wilderness Navigation: Finding Your Way Using Map, Compass, Altimeter & GPS

The Natural Navigator, Tenth Anniversary Edition: The Rediscovered Art of Letting Nature Be Your Guide

Pinpoint: How GPS Is Changing Technology, Culture, and Our Minds <- thanks Zeb for pointing me to this one, just started reading it and it’s good!

Guided Instruction

If you would like to work with me directly, I have a custom 8-hour Wilderness Navigation Course. This course covers everything from Survival/Improvised Navigation to creating detailed “White-Out” navigation plans. It also includes using modern smartphone apps. It’s a couple hours of morning classroom followed by real life field practice of all skills. Reach out if you’d like to learn more!

Summary

This topic is slightly controversial. Almost any hiking authority will urge you to carry a paper map at all times. I’m not arguing against that. From a search and rescue team member’s experience, I think back on the dozens of missions I’ve been involved in. I struggle to recall pulling out my paper map at any point during a search. I always have very detailed pre-downloaded topographic data in a smartphone. I carefully conserve power and keep a backup. This combination has always gotten me to my next checkpoint. I continue practicing following a compass bearing through thick woods to a target. I do this because I want that skill to stay sharp and support the existing technology I’ve decided to embrace. I hope sharing this mindset with you encourages you to evaluate your own capabilities.

Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue

Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:

Androscroggin Valley Search and Rescue Donations

Lakes Region Search and Rescue Donations

While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.

Comments? Questions?

Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to digital navigation, maps, or my suggestions. Let me know what your favorite mapping app is! Do you feel competent with digital mapping navigation?

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting on of these links the author earns a small commission on no additional cost to you. Thank you!

What’s in a Rescuer’s Pack Series- Part 1 Physical Mirrored Compass

September 15, 2025October 27, 2025 David Lottmann adventure travel, Avalanche Courses, Backcountry Skiing, backpacking, Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, hiking, Land Navigation, Misc Reviews, Mountaineering, Tech Tips, Tech Tips, Wilderness Medicine, Wilderness Navigation, Wilderness Survival adventure, backpacking, climbing, hiking, Land Navigation, map and compass, mountaineering, nature, search and rescue, Survival Skills, travel, Wilderness Navigation, Wilderness Survival

Best Compass For Hiking and Search and Rescue

Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass

Part 2- Digital Map (and maybe a physical backup)

Part 3- Headlamps… plural!

Part 4- First Aid Kit & Training!

Part 5- Water and Water Treatment

With over twenty years of service on multiple Search and Rescue teams in the White Mountains of New Hampshire I’ve had plenty of time to dial in what I carry on missions. My rescue pack is different from my typical guiding pack in a couple ways.

First, I carry more tools for off trail navigation than what I pack for guiding trade routes that I have traveled hundreds of times.

Second, I carry the gear I need to comfortably spend a night out in the woods if need be. In this series I’m going to break down every item in my pack and go into detail about each item, its purpose, and make brand and model recommendations for each piece.

Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass

Despite my affinity for digital GPS navigation I do still carry a quality liquid filled magnetic compass. My requirements for a compass are accuracy, durability, and dependability. For over two decades I’ve relied on the Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass.

This compass checks all my boxes.

Accurate?

The manufacturer claimed accuracy is to 2 degrees and the resolution is also 2 degrees. With the sighting mirror and dual elevation sight-notches I can take very precise bearings in the field. The full length compass when opened supports accurate single point and dual point resection. In practice I’ve covered a few miles of off trail travel, both dense forest areas and barren alpine zones, and found my objective every time with this compass.

Durable?

In twenty years I’ve never broken on of these compasses. They are rugged. I’ve only replaced it once when it went missing during one of the avalanche courses I was teaching. I’m pretty sure a student accidentally took it home after a field session. Speaking of avalanche safety this compass has a built in clinometer which measures slope angle.

Measuring slope angle with the built in clinometer on the Suunto MC-2 Compass to make better decisions in avalanche terrain

Not only is this ability crucial for avalanche safety but it’s helpful with navigation as well. If you’re trying to determine if a nearby peak is higher or lower than your current location a clinometer can accurately answer that for you.

(The back arrow above indicates a 35 degree slope along the top or bottom edge of the clear base plate)

Dependable?

One of the biggest reasons I still carry a physical mirrored compass is because of how often I work in cold weather conditions. Smartphones are very susceptible to the kind of temperature I both recreate in, and serve in when on a SAR mission. Even keeping my iPhone warm in an inner chest pocket I have seen the screen stop working in mere seconds when exposed to below freezing temperatures. I have used my mirrored compass during above tree-line searches in sub-zero temperatures. Suunto claims the liquid used will not freeze until -30° C / -22° F.

For occasional recreational use this compass may be a bit more than you need. For light recreational use I recommend my students purchase a model like the Suunto A-10 NH Compass or better if their budget can afford it.

The Suunto M-3 NH Compass is a good mid-range choice. For professional level use for someone who plans to spend a fair amount of time traveling off the beaten paths I highly recommend the added accuracy of a mirrored compass.

I’ve always found success with Suunto compasses but I have a friend and colleague who teaches Wilderness Survival and Wilderness First Responder Courses and he is a big fan of Brunton, so with his trusted endorsement I am including that brand as well below with some general comments on each high end model.

Suunto MC-2 G Mirrored Compass – If you travel internationally this is the model to get as the patented global needle will work anywhere in the world.

Suunto MC-2 NH Mirrored Compass – If your adventures are contained to the Northern Hemisphere this is the model for you. Took me a hot minute to figure out that “NH” didn’t stand for my beloved state of New Hampshire, but for “Northern Hemisphere”. The needle is designed to float freely anywhere north of the Equator.

Brunton Truarc15 Luminescent Compass– My colleague, who probably spends more time then most traveling through the woods in the dark, is a fan of this compass. It certainly looks to me to be a very solid choice for a professional level compass.

Summary

While this series will likely cover the rest of the “ten essentials” soon I purposely started with the compass before the map. If I had to pick between navigating with only a compass or a map, I would choose a compass. While my improvised/survival navigation skills are quite sharp, a compass lets me follow a very specific bearing into trail-less wilderness in darkness or fog for a few miles, and return back my starting point often within a few dozen feet. This type of competent navigation is only gained through dedicated practice in the field and would be impossible with just a map and no compass.

Get Skilled

If terms like “declination” and “resection” are not familiar to you I would highly suggest seeking out a quality course in Wilderness Navigation. There are many options from free clinics offered by hiking clubs to high level courses. I actually developed my own 8 hour course after not finding a course anywhere that offered the type of classroom/field session lessons I think are effective. Feel free to reach out if you’d like to book a Wilderness Navigation Course with me! I also have a small selection of YouTube videos covering some compass topics you can check out here!

Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue

Androscroggin Valley Search and Rescue Donations

Lakes Region Search and Rescue Donations

While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.

Comments? Questions?

Let me know below! Ask me about anything related to compasses or my suggestions. Let me know what your favorite compass model is! Do you feel competent with compass navigation? Have you practiced recently?

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to the reader. Thank you!

Climbing Tech Tip: Proper Lap Coils

October 28, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips climbing, climbing tips, ice climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing, sport climbing, Tech Tips, trad climbing, travel

If a suitable ledge for stacking the climbing rope is not available, coil the rope over your anchor attachment. For maximum efficiency your coils should either start longer and end short, or start short and end long (never the same size coils!).

Choosing the right choice depends on who is leading the next pitch. If your partner is leading the next pitch you want to start with long coils progressively getting smaller. That way, when they start to lead, the smaller coils on top should feed off smoothly. This prevents looping under a longer coil, which creates tangles.

If you are leading the next pitch you should start with smaller coils progressively getting bigger. Then, after your partner tethers to the anchor, you can carefully “flip” the whole lap coil over onto their tether. The smaller coils (your end of the rope) should now be on top of the lap coil. They should feed off smoothly.

It takes some practice to do this neatly to avoid tangles. When done correctly the climbing party will lose very little time at the belay transition. If the lap coils are not tidy, re-stack or recoil the rope. This ensures the leader end will feed smoothly during the next pitch.

Have you been doing this?

Ever have a rope coil mess that you just toss down the cliff below you hoping for the best?

The rope used in this video is the Mammut Crag Classic Doudess 9.8mm 60m.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support this blog. Making a purchase through one of the links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!

Essential Guide to the Reepschnur Rappel

October 20, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips adventure, climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing, travel

Disclaimer: The Reepschnur Rappel is an advanced climbing technique. Like all technical climbing techniques, misunderstanding or misapplication can lead to serious bodily injury or death. Seek qualified in-person instruction on this technique from an AMGA certified guide or a seasoned and vetted mentor. You take all responsibility in attempting any climbing technique you learn from the internet.

Last week my partner Foster and I found ourselves at the top of the second pitch of the classic Wanderlust route on Humprey’s Ledge, North Conway NH. We were climbing with a single 70 meter Mammut Alpine Dry Climbing Rope.

Comments on Mountain Project indicated a 70m double rappel would just barely reach the ground. I chose instead to conduct a Reepschur Rappel. I had read about this technique in a couple of different climbing texts. I felt it would be a good choice for the situation we were in. In fact if you are not sure your ropes will reach the next anchor or the ground this is a great method to understand.

To begin, I tethered into the anchor. This allowed me to untie from my rope end. Then I fed a little more than half the rope through the fixed anchor rings. I then lowered Foster directly from the anchor with a Munter hitch and a third hand friction hitch backup. There are many ways you could lower your partner like a redirected plate. The advantage of lowering your partner is clear. You can measure accurately how far you need to go to reach the next anchor. In our case, it meant reaching the ground. The middle mark of the rope passed through my lowering system. It traveled about 20 feet down the cliff. Then Foster reached the ground.

At this point, I tied an overhand on a bight on the brake side of the lowering system. I then clipped it with a locking carabiner to the strand I had lowered Foster on. This essentially creates what some folks call a “GriGri Rappel.” You can now conduct a single strand rappel on this strand with any appropriate device. A blocked “GriGri rappel” is pretty simple. The challenge is how to recover your rope when the “pull” side does not reach the ground.

The solution here is pretty simple. When you reach the end of the “pull” side of the rope, attach enough material to it. This way, you can finish your rappel and still have a connection to the pull side for rope recovery. What you attach to this side can be anything. You could untie a 20 foot cordelette. This is especially true if your joining knot is a Flat Overhand Bend. You could chain all of your quick-draws together. You could literally use shoelaces if you needed to. Use whatever you need to finish your single strand blocked rappel and still have a connection to the “pull” side. Once you are secure, either at the next anchor or the ground, you can pull your chain of connection. This will allow you to recover your rope.

This technique really opens up the potential of climbing with “pull cords” which can be insanely light and pack-able. The Petzl Purline is an industry favorite. It is ideal if the climbing party only wants to carry one fully rated dynamic climbing rope. Climbers can still conduct full rope length rappels.

Dangers!

If you unintentionally install your device on the pull side of this blocked rappel it would end in tragedy. Be paranoid of this error and don’t make it!

If your rope gets stuck while pulling your pull cord, you likely won’t have any rated climbing rope. This means that you can’t “lead back up.” You can’t fix the problem like you would in a more traditional double rope rappel system.

Skinny pull cords can be hard to grasp and pull especially if there is a lot of friction above. I fondly remember trying to rappel with a pull cord. It was 60 meters of 5mm accessory cord on Cathedral Ledge. This was almost two decades ago. We read about the technique in “Climbing Magazine.” In moderate winds, our pull cord wrapped itself around our main climbing line dozens of times. We got down with only mild hypothermia. We had to build an improvised 9:1 haul system to actually pull the rope down.

With those considerations and warnings in mind the Reepschnur rappel likely deserves more awareness in the recreational climber’s repertoire. Like many advanced climbing techniques, we usually learn about them directly from a certified climbing guide. Alternatively, books like the Mountain Guide Manual, published with advanced users in mind also give this information. This post aims to introduce this valuable technique to a broader audience. I sincerely hope that the audience heeds the warnings of nuanced application.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. If you make a purchase after visiting one of these links the author earns a small commission on no additional cost to you. Thank you!

Comparing Petzl Neox and Edelrid Pinch for Climbing

October 7, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips adventure, assisted braking devices, belay devices, climbing, edelrid, edelrid pinch, ice climbing, mountaineering, petzl, petzl neox, rock climbing, travel

The Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch are the two biggest additions to the growing market of Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs). Many of you might be wondering which device is the right one for you.

In this video, I will show the key differences between each device. This will help you make an informed decision on which device is best for you. This is not an in-depth review of either device. More in-depth reviews of each device will be linked below in the description as they are published. Below the video is a transcript with greater detail than what I had time to convey in the video. Feel free to skip to any section you would like more information on!

COST

To start our comparison let’s look at retail cost. The manufacturer suggested retail price of the Petzl Neox is $149.95 USD ($€29 Euros) and the Edelrid Pinch is $119.95 USD (€99.95). The difference of $30 USD is not insignificant. The Petzl Neox must be paired with a locking carabiner to function. In contrast, the Edelrid Pinch can be used without a locking carabiner. For comparison the recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner is $18.95 USD.

WEIGHT

Next let’s look at the difference in weight. The Petzl Neox claimed weight is 235 grams. The Edelrid Pinch claimed weight is 234 grams. That’s only 1 gram difference so even Steven right? Well not quite. You see the Edelrid Pinch is designed to be usable without a locking carabiner. It has a secure locking attachment point. You can connect it to any belay loop or master point that is a minimum of 10mm in width. I’ve seen some guides on social media adding a locking carabiner as a sort of “double” lock on the setup. While there isn’t really anything wrong with being “extra” safe, I haven’t seen any reason for concern. This is true when the device is installed properly without using an extra locking carabiner. So, for comparison reasons, the Edelrid Pinch is one locking carabiner lighter. This makes it lighter than a usable Petzl Neox. The recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner weighs 46 grams for comparison.

SIZE

Size wise they are pretty similar. The Petzl Neox is about 4 ¼ inches (10.76 cm) long and 2 ½ inches (6.35 cm) wide and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The Edelrid Pinch is 5 ½ inches (14 cm) long and 2 ¾ inches (7 cm) and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The difference in dimensions is quite minimal. However, you could factor in the additional size of a locking carabiner for the Petzl Neox to function. This may not matter much from a pack-ability standpoint. We will discuss later how having the Edelrid Pinch connected directly to your harness belay loop might be more efficient. It could also be attached to the anchor master point during belays for added efficiency.

ROPE SIZE

The Petzl Neox is approved to be used with single rated climbing ropes between 8.5 and 11 millimeters. The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used with single rated dynamic ropes between 8.5 and 10.5 millimeters and static ropes between 10 to 10.5 millimeters. I haven’t climbed on a single rated rope thicker than 10.5 millimeters in a couple of decades so I don’t think this difference is very notable. It is interesting that the usable threshold for static rope is mentioned to be smaller. I’m not sure exactly why that is. This answer probably is not very relevant to most potential users. Most static ropes likely fall within the 10 to 10.5 millimeter range.

LEAD BELAY FUNCTION

There are some pretty noticeable differences when belaying a leader with the Edelrid Pinch versus the Petzl Neox.

First, the real stand out feature of the Petzl Neox is the smoothness of adding slack quickly to the system. The intuitiveness is also exceptional. The spinning wheel inside the housing simplifies keeping up with a quickly moving climber. This is true even when they make a big reach clip. With the Petzl Neox, it is less likely that a belayer will accidentally “short rope” a lead climber. It is also less likely that the device will unintentionally lock up while trying to add slack to the system.

Second, there is no need for a special hand position when feeding slack with the Petzl Neox. This means the device is easily mastered by anyone who can belay well with a standard tube style belay device.

Lead belaying with the Edelrid Pinch feels much more similar to belaying with a Petzl GriGri. Many seasoned climbers are quite familiar with this. The cam can engage when quickly paying out slack. Make sure to use care. The technical details and instructions illustrate a “quick slack” grip method. An advantage of the Edelrid Pinch is its versatility. You can perform the quick slack method whether you are right handed or left handed. This method takes a little practice to do well but isn’t hard to master with some time. The Petzl Neox essentially has a slightly faster learning curve in the hands of a new belayer.

Finally, one notable difference here is the Edelrid Pinch can be connected directly to your belay loop. You do not need a locking carabiner. This keeps the device about 4 inches (10 cm) to your body. This means you can pay out a little more rope with each arm motion. I need to spend more time belaying lead climbers with both of these devices. This will help me decide if this difference is truly noteworthy.

DIRECT ANCHOR BELAY FUNCTION

Both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch can belay a second directly off an anchor. This applies in either a single pitch or multi-pitch setting. There are some differences between the two devices to discuss here.

First, taking slack in with the Petzl Neox is extremely easy thanks to the spinning wheel in the housing. When using a hand on both the load and belay line, the rope pulls through the device like a high efficiency pulley. There is very little noticeable friction. This is a blessing for anyone with a bit of elbow tendinitis. Also with the Petzl Neox rope diameter really doesn’t change the amount of effort pulling slack through the device requires.

The Edelrid Pinch feels quite similar in effort to pulling slack with a Petzl GriGri. Thinner ropes will pull easier than thicker ropes.

They cam almost instantly when presented with a load. This is true, for example, when a seconding climber falls. A brake hand must be properly on the rope to provide some resistance on the other side of the device. There have been some dramatic social media videos shared that how the Petzl Neox will not cam for quite some time in the event of a missing brake hand.

Perhaps the Edelrid Pinch will make some climbers feel a little more secure. It does seem to cam more quickly when a brake hand is absent. However, both devices clearly state in their instructions that a brake hand MUST be present. It must be in the correct position to provide resistance on the brake strand side of the device. Neither of these devices are considered “hands free” in any mode of use!

FIXED POINT BELAY OF LEAD CLIMBER!

The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used in a Fixed Point Belay orientation. This technique of belaying a leader offers advantages in certain situations. It is the first device I know of that the manufacturer actually approves for this use. I will likely experiment more with this option this winter while testing the Edelrid Pinch ice climbing.

LOWERING DIRECTLY FROM ANCHOR

Both devices are capable of lowering smoothly directly from the anchor. Likely the biggest difference here is the Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” feature. This feature is very similar to what Petzl introduced when they released the Petzl GriGri+. By design, if the release lever is pulled too far when lowering, the cam will re-engage. This can happen when lowering from top-rope or directly from the anchor. To continue lowering, the user needs to release the handle back to the start position. Then, pull the handle back down to resume the lower. Alternatively, pull the handle harder to get past the “anti-panic” zone. The latter option is considered “advanced”.

While this “anti-panic” feature is probably good for less experience belayer it might be off-putting to more advanced users. Well Edelrid probably thought of that. They included a small screw. It can be inserted in the device to disable the anti-panic feature. I haven’t disabled the feature yet. I want a little more hands-on experience. This will help me better compare it to the anti-panic feature of the Petzl GriGri+ for a future video.

With either device follow the instructions and redirect your brake strand for a smooth and secure lower.

IMPROVISED HAULING FUNCTION

Both devices function almost identical in a hauling set up. As I mentioned in my detailed video on the Petzl Neox, I initially thought the spinning wheel might add efficiency. I was referring to its use in an improvised haul. However, I later realized the wheel is locked when the device is under tension. Therefore, there is no advantage of hauling with a Petzl Neox over a Petzl GriGri or the Edelrid Pinch. They both function well as progress captures and reduce friction efficiency in the hauling system at about the same level. One last minute detail is the Edelrid Pinch can be attached directly to the anchor without a locking carabiner. This saves you about 4 inches (10 cm) of more efficiency. You have fewer resets in your improvised hauling system.

SINGLE STRAND RAPPELLING (ABSEILING) FUNCTION

Both devices can be used for a single strand rappel. The big difference between the two is similar to the difference mentioned above in the lowering section. The Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” function which is probably most noticeable during a rappel. If you plan to do a lot of rappelling on a single strand, you might want to disable the anti-panic feature. Consider doing this at some point with the Edelrid Pinch. I recommend keeping it engaged for a few rappels first. This will allow you to see which you would prefer more.

ROPE ASCENSION

There is a notable difference in the use of these two devices when ascending a fixed rope. For the most part the Edelrid Pinch feels like a Petzl GriGri as a progress capture during rope ascension. The Petzl Neox makes it noticeably easier to pull rope through the device while standing in your leg loop. This is because the device is not loaded, unlike a haul system, and the wheel spins during that action. On a long rope climb, you will save a little energy with the Petzl Neox. However, exactly how much energy you save is debatable.

SUMMARY

Now for the hard part… which device is best for you? The crowning achievement of the Petzl Neox is the device’s ability to efficiently pay out slack. It can also take in slack as if the rope is just traveling through a pulley. The Petzl Neox is extremely beginner friendly requiring no special hand techniques other than quality PBUS belay technique.

The Edelrid Pinch is kind of breaking the mold here being the first Assisted Braking Device that can attach to the anchor point autonomously. This is a very intriguing design choice. It can be backed up easily with a separate locking carabiner if that is desired. Its function is quite similar to the long-time standard Petzl GriGri. It has an anti-panic feature that the user can decide to disable. It also has a really competitive suggested retail price when compared to any other device in this category.

You are probably already considering these two devices. They are likely options if you are in the market for a new Assisted Braking Device. I hope this comparison video has been informative. It has shown you some of the differences, some which are significant and some which are subtle. If you enjoyed this video, please like, share, and subscribe. Your support helps me cover new climbing gear, clothing, and equipment. It will help you get out into the mountains for some adventure!

Questions?

Let me know in the comments below and I will do my best to respond in a timely manner!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

A media sample of both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch were provided to the author at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!

Efficient Rope Management: Backside of the Clove Hitch Explained

September 23, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips adventure, climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing, travel

I first learned of the “Backside of the Clove Hitch” in 2017 while reading The Mountain Guide Manual and soon after attended a clinic on its use given by Marc Chauvin, one of the authors of this impressive tome of knowledge. Adding this tool to your repertoire will give you more options and problem solving capacity while climbing, especially during transitions. From my experience while many guides use this tool it has been slower to catch on in the greater recreational climbing circles. This post hopes to bring more general awareness of this useful technique.

The rope in the above video is the Mammut Crag Dry Duodess 9.5mm 60m Rope. <- Loving this rope and will have a detailed review soon!

While the most common way to use this technique is to transition from climbing to rappelling it actually can be quite efficient in reverse. Last week my climbing partner and I rappelled down to a semi-hanging belay stance where we needed to pull the rope, then lead back out to the top of the cliff. There are a few ways to do this but utilizing the backside of the clove hitch technique had some real advantages.

One of the biggest advantages with this and the associated “Backside Rappel Feed” is that one of the two climbers can always stay tied in to one end of the rope. This ensures that the party will never drop their rope, and if a middle mark is at the anchor it eliminates the need for a “stopper” knot in the other free end of the rope. The free end will be less likely to get caught somewhere with out a stopper knot, and there is no need to remember to remove the stopper knot.

While the middle mark and being tied in to one end will prevent the potential for rappelling off the end of your rope, pre-rigging the second person to rappel will add even another layer of redundancy. In the avoidable instance where your middle mark is incorrect and you manage to rappel off the free end of your rope, with a pre-rigged partner at the anchor, you will essentially have just gone from a double strand rappel to a single strand rappel. Disaster avoided, but let’s make sure correct middle marks are used instead ok?

In its simplest form, the backside of the clove hitch technique is just using the climbing rope from “behind” the first climber’s clove hitch as a full strength completely adjustable tether. You would do the same thing with a simple overhand on a bight on that strand but the clove hitch allows you to custom the length of the attachment often leading to a more comfortable stance. I can recall many cramped rappel stations where had I known about this technique I would have quickly and easily secured my climbing partner a few feet away from me so we would not be uncomfortably on top of each other at the station.

One very important difference between using the backside of the clove hitch and the more traditional individual “tether” climbers often use is the security of the second climber relies on both clove hitches. The second climber needs to be secured by a different manner before the first climber removes their clove hitch. In the more common situation of transitioning to rappel this is simply done by the second climber pre-rigging themselves on rappel above the first climbers rappel device. Once both climbers are rigged to rappel and checks have been made, all clove hitches can be removed and the first climber can start rappelling (staying tied in on the harness to one of the rope ends).

The steps we took in the below video were intentional since we new that Bob would be leading the pitch and I was familiar with the rappel to get us on route. The most logical option in this situation was for us to set up a pretty standard single rope double strand retrievable rappel, but I would tie in with a retraced figure of eight to one end of the climbing rope and rappel first. The other free end of the rope did not need a stopper knot which reduces the chance of snags (or forgetting to remove it before pulling the rope).

I rappelled down to the belay station, built a quick anchor, and clove hitched myself to the anchor with the climbing rope. After I came off rappel and signaled to Bob he could start descending I tied another clove hitch on the strand “behind” by clove hitch and had a locking carabiner all ready to go to Bob’s belay loop when he arrived. Once he was clipped into that locker he could take himself off rappel, we could pull the free unknotted end of the rope through the top rappel anchor, stacking our rope as we pulled, and when we had the free end in hand Bob only needed to tie-in and get ready to start leading out from our station.

Summary

In recreational climbing it is beneficial to do more with less. A lot of climbers, myself included, use tools like the Petzl Connect Adjust or a sling to tether into the an anchor during a transition. Using the backside of your clove hitch to quicky create a super strong and fully adjustable tether for your parter is a solid skill to have in your tool kit. I hope this post has clearly explained the process and demonstrated some of the benefits of the technique. If you have any questions please share them below!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Get 10% off Rocky Talkies with promo code “AlpineStart10”!

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Tech Tip: Progress Capture Device (PCD) Belaying Techniques for Recreational Climbers

August 26, 2024August 26, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing

Disclaimer: Some of the techniques discussed in this post require advanced knowledge of technical rope systems in a vertical environment. Subtleties and nuances abound. Seek qualified instruction from an AMGA certified guide or experienced mentor. Climbing is inherently dangerous, you do so at your own risk. Affiliate links below support this blog.

Belaying a Second with a PCD — **Using a Petzl Nano Traxion Progress Capture Device to belay my second on low fifth class slab terrain.**

For over a year I have caught a few social media posts of highly certified guides belaying their clients non-traditionally with a Progress Capture Device or “PCD”. This technique has crept into the recreational climbers tool kit and for good reason, it has some real real advantages over belaying with a more traditional plaquette (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) or the common Assisted Braking Devices “ABDs” the Petzl Gri Gri 2, Petzl Gri Gri+, the new Petzl Neox.

Choosing to belay with a PCD should be an informed and conscious decision and I hope this post will give you some of the information you should consider when making that decision. The biggest piece of this puzzle simply comes down to appropriate terrain.

Terrain– This technique is most suitable of belaying a second in 4th and easy 5th class terrain where the probability of a fall is low and the climber is moving at a higher rate of speed. Basically if the second isn’t moving faster then 1 meter a second (3 feet a second) you likely should belay with a more traditional method like a plaquette or ABD.

Belaying a Second with PCD — ***This low 5th class slab climbing terrain is one example of where belaying with a PCD might be a good choice***

Manage Slack– It is imperative with any “toothed” PCD to have minimal slack in the system as the second is climbing. This should be manageable given the lack of resistance when pulling rope, especially through the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Micro Traxion. All three of the PCDs I link below have technical documentation that indicate a load over 4kN or more will lead to sheath damage. If slack is removed while the second climbs, especially towards the end of the pitch when there is less dynamic rope in the system, it should be easy to avoid a 4kN load on the PCD.

Have Improvised Rescue Skills– This point is well illustrated by the amount of climbers who use plaquette style devices (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) but have yet to practice lowering from a loaded device. As mentioned earlier using a PCD to belay a second should be in terrain where a fall or lower is not expected. If either of those two things could be needed I would likely choose a different belay technique, however, unexpected does happen. If you are experienced enough to belay your second with a PCD you should have a solid understanding of release-able load transfers. You should have the skills to swap a loaded PCD with something that would allow a smooth lower (Munter Hitch, LSD, Gri Gri, etc). Making this transition safely and smoothly is something best learned from a qualified guide or instructor. (These skills are covered and practiced in my custom Self Rescue Course, send a message if interested in that curriculum).

A Comparison Look at Three PCDs

Petzl Tibloc, Nano Traxion, Micro Traxion Comparison

Device	Price	Weight	Rope Diameter
Petzl Tibloc	$54.95	36 grams	8 – 11mm*
Petzl Nano Traxion	$114.95	53 grams	7 – 11mm*
Petzl Micro Traxion	$144.95	85 grams	7 – 11mm*

* Compatible with the PUR’LINE 6 MM cord only for hauling a pack

* Compatible with the RAD LINE 6 MM cord (more information in the Instructions for Use at http://www.petzl.com)

The Petzl Tibloc is obviously the lightest and most affordable of the three Petzl PCDs I’m comparing here. It is well established as an excellent ultralight weight device for glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and improvised rescue. The addition of the spring loaded mechanism to initiate capture on the newest model of the Petzl Tibloc means it can work as a belay for a second, however, the lack of a pulley means you will feel noticeable more resistance when pulling slack through the system. For this reason alone I think it is worth considering one of the other two options from Petzl, especially now that there is a choice that weights only 16 grams more. Additionally, care needs to be used when installing the Petzl Tibloc to insure the rope passes through the locking carabiner and not just the device!

The Petzl Nano Traxion, while costing twice as much as the Petzl Tibloc, has a lot going for it. First, it incorporates a highly efficient (91%) pulley, which makes pulling in slack, regardless of diameter, quite effortless. At only 53 grams it is the lightest PCD + Pulley I have ever tested. Paired with a Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner and a home tied keeper cord this set up has become the newest edition to the back gear loop on my harness.

The Petzl Micro Traxion is the most expensive and heaviest of these options. The only real advantage of this model is the added mechanism that allows you to lock the cam in the open position so you can use the device as a simple pulley. It’s a pretty small addition to justify the additional cost and weight over the Petzl Nano Traxion.

Compatible Carabiners

My favorite carabiner for all three of these PCDs is the Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner. This small lightweight locking carabiner features a red indicator that aids in visually confirming if it is locked or not and a small hole for attaching a keeper cord to any of these devices. I’m also a fan of the Petzl OK Triact Auto Locking Carabiner and the Petzl OK Ball-Lock Carabiner especially when matched with the Petzl Tibloc.

Deal Alert

Pretty much every product I have linked to in this post is 25% off right now at Backcountry. If you do decide to purchase anything based off the information in this post I really appreciate you using those links. Your support will keep this content coming!

Summary

Climbing techniques continue to evolve with advances in methodology often happening at the highest levels of the sport (certified climbing guides and accredited organizations) and then disseminate to the more general practioners. Belaying with a PCD can lead to efficiency and increased safety in certain climbing situations. Keep in mind the choice should be well informed and consider; terrain, managed slack, and your ability to problem solve unlikely scenarios like needing to transition to an unexpected lower. If you do find yourself in situations where this technique would work for you consider adding the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner to your kit. After 1400 feet of moderate slab climbing this past weekend with two of my friends my elbows were quite happy I was familiar with this option!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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Quick Tech Tip: Long Tail on Tag Line for Security

August 23, 2024 David Lottmann Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing

Leave a long enough tail on your tag line attachment so that you can thread the fixed rappel station and connect your ropes before you disconnect from the tag line and undo what ever knot you used to tag the line. Zero chance of dropping your tag line is a good thing!

Sterling 7mm Tag Line from Backcountry

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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Lowering Tech Tip Series: Lowering with a Redirected Clip-Back

August 5, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing

The Redirected Clip-Back Lower provides a smooth lower and the rope will stay twist free if you keep the rope running inline with the belay device. This method works with any tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Verso. Don’t forget to add a third hand friction knot on off your belay loop to the brake strand and close your system!

First install the rope onto your tube style belay device as if you were about to belay your partner from your harness. Instead of attaching the belay carabiner to your belay loop, attach it to the master point of your anchor.
Redirect the brake strand through the same locking carabiner so that the brake strand is coming out of the carabiner on the same side as the load strand.
Before lowering attach a third hand fiction hitch to the brake strand and attach that to your belay loop with a locking carabiner.
Make sure the system is closed (either you are tied into the other end of the rope or it is knotted near the end). If your rope is already stacked you are now ready to lower.

Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice in a safe setting and seek qualified mentors, instructors, and guides.

Questions or Comments? Please share them below!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Your purchase after visiting these links will earn the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!

Lowering Tech Tip Series: Lowering with a Redirected Plate (ATC/Verso/etc)

August 5, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Tech Tips climbing, ice climbing, rock climbing

There are many reasons why a climbing party may choose to lower a team member during a descent, for example, very windy conditions. While the Munter Hitch only requires a single HMS style locking carabiner the “Redirected Plate” method is another option that only requires a tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Verso and two locking carabiners (or one if lowering through fixed chains).

This method provides one of the smoothest lowers and is probably the easiest to make sure the rope stays twist free.

First install the rope onto your tube style belay device as if you were about to belay your partner from your harness. Instead of attaching the belay carabiner to your belay loop attach it to the master point of your anchor.
Redirect the brake strand through a locking carabiner in the master point of your anchor. It is best if this locking carabiner is slightly smaller than the belay locking carabiner.
Before lowering attach a third hand fiction hitch to the brake strand and attach that to your belay loop.
Make sure the system is closed (either you are tied into the other end of the rope or it is knotted near the end). If your rope is already stacked you are now ready to lower.

An efficient use of this technique when rappelling with a single rope is to thread the rope through the fixed gear as the redirect instead of a locking carabiner. That way when the climber reaches the ground, or the next anchor, you can pull more rope through to the middle mark of your rope, remove your tube style device, put yourself on a double strand rappel, and head on down. Or even more crafty conduct a “Reepschneur” Rappel <- upcoming tech tip!

Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice this technique in a safe setting and seek qualified mentorship and instruction.

Questions or Comments? Please share them below!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase after using one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.