The Munter Mule Overhand or “MMO” is a combination of three knots that creates a releasable-under-tension method of securing a rope or cordelette. The MMO is useful in improvised self-rescue applications most often involving load transfers. In this situation I was using it to secure one end of a typical top-rope setup so my guest could practice rope ascension on the other end of the top-rope. The context here is if the climber practicing rope ascension gets a device jammed or has trouble transitioning from ascension back to descending I can remove the overhand, carefully deconstruct the Mule, then use the Munter to lower the climber back down to the ground.
Climbing is dangerous! Be sure to seek qualified instruction and practice new skills on the ground.
Questions or Comments? Please share them below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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I’ve now had the Petzl Neox for about two weeks and have been able to form some opinions and test it in applications I’m most interested in. The most recent day I spent at the cliff with it was focused on seeing how it performed as a progress capture in an improvised hauling system and in a rope ascension system. Both these uses are important to me for assisting a seconding climber or rescuing an injured lead climber, and places where I would traditionally be using a Petzl GriGri. Here is some raw footage of this round of testing and some of my thoughts.
I assumed the Petzl Neox would work great for progress capture in this systems due to the spinning internal cog wheel and it definitely felt efficient in both the hauling scenario and the rope climbing scenario. I will be doing another round of comparisons with a more realistic full body weight load on the system but the fact the wheel still spun in my rope ascension test leads me to think it will still spin with a full load in a hauling system. This took me a little while to wrap my head around because you can seen when the device sees a full load while single strand rappelling the cam rotates, the wheel stops spinning, and you control your descent with the friction of the rope moving through the created bend. Why wouldn’t the wheel rotate and lock like that while using it as a progress capture?
The answer comes down to physics and while not having anything close to a degree in physics I can see how the device isn’t getting the full load in these scenarios. The full load is on the “tractor”, or friction hitch, or the Petzl Tibloc. When you go to pull slack through the Petzl Neox at that part of the cycle there is almost no weight on the device so the cam does not engage and the wheel spins freely reducing effort in hauling and ascending. When you relax during the hauling process all the load goes back to the Petzl Neox and the cam engages. Same with ascending, when you transfer your weight from your foot loop back to your harness the necessary threshold is exceeded and the cam engages. When you put your weight into your foot loop to progress the weight comes off the device and it is easier to pull the slack through the device then the Petzl GriGri.
Summary
It is still early in our broader exposure to this new belay device but the videos have been pouring out from influencers, highly certified guides, and rock star YouTuber’s. My opinion will likely evolve over the course of the summer as I put more days on the device, and expose more beginner climbers to it. For now I will re-iterate that I really like how easy it is to pull slack while belaying from above, and the more I think about it I do think this device may be in someways safer for a newer belayer as the instructions basically encourage you to not tough the device while paying out slack. This device may help prevent the holding open of the cam at risky moments which was likely part of the motivation of the anti-panic feature that came with the Petzl GriGri+.
Exclusive Discount with HowNot2.com!
I am really excited to announce I’ve partnered with HowNot2.com and can now offer my followers a 10% discount on anything you purchase at hownot2.com and support what I am doing with discount code “NEAlpineStart” <- capitalization does not matter!
See you in the mountains!
I hope this information is helpful for your to make an informed decision. While Petzl supplied me with a Neox to review this is not a sponsored post. Affiliate links above help me continue to spend time creating these videos and posts and I thank you for your support!
Today I was able to get out to the cliff for a short bit to check out the newly released assisted blocking belay device, the Petzl Neox.
This is not a full in-depth review. It is a preliminary look at this new option in assisted blocking belay devices and I try to distinguish some of the obvious differences in the Petzl Neox, the Petzl GriGri, and the Petzl GriGri+. As time allows I will be diving more deeply into the topics I mention in the video. In the meantime please check out my initial thoughts and if you haven’t already please subscribe to the YouTube channel so I can keep sharing this type of content with all of you!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no addition cost to you. Thank you!
The Munter Hitch is one of the most valuable knots used in climbing and every climber should become familiar with this versatile hitch. While Werner Munter didn’t invent the hitch, a few Italian’s did in the 1950s, he was the one who popularized it in the 1970s and why it bears his name. This hitch works best on a large pear shaped locking HMS style carabiner like a Petzl Attach or Petzl William Screwlock Carabiner. Fun fact, the “HMS” is a German abbreviated for “Halbmastwurfsicherung” which translated means roughly “half a clove hitch” which describes the structure of this hitch. You can read more on this history of the hitch here.
Formation
To tie the Munter Hitch you form a twist in the rope similar to the Clove Hitch and drop a strand into the carabiner as well. It is really easy when learning this hitch to remove the twist when you add the second strand which leaves you with the rope just double looped through the carabiner which should be obviously incorrect. Watching a few videos of how to tie it along with plenty of practice tying it inside your home or on the ground should proceed you tying it for real life application.
One of the cool aspects of the Munter Hitch is that it is “reversible”, meaning it will flip through the carabiner into a different orientation depending on which strand is being loaded. During instruction we use the terms “load” strand and “brake” strand. If you only apply load to the “load” strand the hitch will end up in what is referred to as the “lowering” orientation. If we only apply load, or more commonly pull in slack while belaying, the hitch will flip through the carabiner into what is referred to as “belay” orientation. Generally when creating the Munter Hitch it is common to create an “air” hitch like demonstrated in the above video and then install it onto the carabiner. With a little practice it becomes efficient to tie the hitch directly onto the carabiner.
Advanced Formation
For those with a strong grasp on the basic ways to form the hitch it can be useful to learn how to tie the hitch onto the carabiner in the orientation it will first be operated. For example tying it so it is already in belay orientation, or tying it is it is already in lowering orientation. These methods can add efficiency especially when progressing to advanced self-rescue skills and for those seeking out guiding certifications in rock and alpine guiding.
Application
Belaying– The most common use for the Munter Hitch is an alternative to a plaquette style belay device like a Petzl Reverso or Black Diamond ATC Guide when belaying a second directly from the anchor. This choice may be because of a dropped belay device, or it may be for speed and efficiency, or it may be out of necessity (ice’d up frozen ropes while ice climbing can work better in this hitch and be near impossible to install into a plaquette).
Lowering– The smoothest way to lower a climber directly from above is by using a Munter Hitch and lowering directly from an anchor. A common misconception is this method will twist your rope up and/or greatly wear your rope as the hitch rubs on itself. Both of these conceptions are false with proper use of the hitch, which primarily means keeping the orientation of the BRAKE strand PARALLEL to the LOAD strand while lowering. Doing so will prevent any twisting of rope. The second consideration is conducting a smooth, steady, non-high speed lower. This will not damage the rope and modern rope have sheaths that can easily handle the minimal wear using this hitch hundreds of times will put on your rope. It is a good practice to use a “third hand” friction hitch on the brake side of the hitch connected to your belay loop while conducting anything but the shortest and simplest of lowers.
Rappelling– While it is possible to rappel short distances with the Munter Hitch attached to a locking carabiner on your belay loop it is a bit awkward to do so and the dramatic difference in angle that the two strands leave the hitch leads to massive rope twisting (and where this hitch probably got a misguided bad-wrap). In truth if you rappel by holding your brake strand parallel to the rope you can manage this without twisting your rope but this practice is very unintuitive to other modes of rappelling and I would only use it as a last resort.
Summary
The Munter Hitch should be in your top five familiar climbing knots. From belaying to lowering it has a lot of applications in climbing, especially in the self-rescue world when we start looking at tension releasable solutions (coming soon). If you haven’t used this hitch in your climbing take sometime to build it at home and see how it operates. Even with all the advanced and great belay devices on the market it is wise to have a fall back plan that only requires a single locking carabiner.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through on of those links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!
On April 28th, 2024 a climber fell almost 400 feet sustaining serious injuries when their rappel system failed. The suspected mechanism of failure was an improperly threaded girth hitched rappel ring. In this video I demonstrate how this occurrence is possible.
Some key take home points;
For better and/or worse we are seeing girth hitched rappel rings on fixed rappel anchors
Careful inspection of the hitch and proper placement of your threaded rope is CRITICAL
Best practice is to ALWAYS stress test your rappel connection BEFORE you remove your lanyard from the anchor.
Alpine Savvy also has a nice post with more information and some opinions on this situation here.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Psst… You can get 10% off Rocky Talkies with “AlpineStart10” at this link!
Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of these links the author receives a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
The Clove Hitch is the most common knot used to secure oneself to an anchor and in this video I share the multiple ways I have learned to tie this excellent hitch.
The first method I learned was to create the two asymmetrical loops and then “slide” the loops in front or behind each other. Then I learned the “crossed” hands method which takes a little practice but once you get it dialed it is a very fast way to form the hitch. The one-handed clove hitch is a bit of a party trick but still fun to learn. Finally learning to tie the clove hitch directly onto a carabiner with one hand is a worthwhile skill to master as you can increase your security on a small stance by holding onto the anchor with your off hand. I use this method most often while ice climbing but it’s useful in any climbing context.
One tip to assist learning how to tie the clove onto a carabiner is to just start with a clove hitch already on the carabiner, and then slowly “deconstruct” the hitch only strand at a time. Then build the hitch again, and deconstruct again, and repeat until the muscle memory is gained!
While you can also tie a clove hitch around a solid object, like a tree, I’ve never found a practical use for that method in the climbing world, so I do not demonstrate it here.
How do you like to tie your clove hitch? Know any other methods that I haven’t listed here?
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase through one of those links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
“The Fairy Tale Traverse”, Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle, Huntington Ravine, Mount Washington. Photo by Peter Brandon
Oftentimes we have anchors that are set back from the cliff edge. If we belay at these anchors communication can be hampered. In this video I demonstrate some of the methods you can use to extend yourself back to a position to improve communication (and provide better photo opportunities!).
A question from a follower last week asked “Can I just estimate the length, clove in, and leave my belay device up at the anchor?”. While that could work, it is generally a better practice to keep your belay device within arms reach. In the event you need to lower your partner, or build a 3:1 haul system to help them, it is more easily handled when the belay device is still within reach.
Another great way to improve communication is to climb with a pair of Rocky Talkies! These radios are incredibly rugged, lightweight, and are so much better to use than straining your vocal cords yelling “off belay” from 50 meters away. You can use promo code “AlpineStart10” at this link to get 10% off your own set of Rocky Talkies! A portion of every sale also sends money to Search & Rescue teams so I am quite proud to support this company!
If you found this video useful please take the time to like and subscribe so that I can keep putting effort into creating instruction videos like this one! Also you have any questions or comments please let me know below!
Affiliate links above support the content created on this blog. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
Today only, Monday, November 27th, 2023, you can book an adventure or course with Northeast Mountaineering and save some serious moo-lah! Basically if you book one of these adventures today you get to bring a friend for free! I’m going to share exactly what programs are eligible and what the out of pocket cost per person would be if you decide to split this adventure with your adventure buddy, starting with the absolute best deal of them all!
AIARE 1 Avalanche Course $550 ($275pp)
Photo courtesy of Alexander Robert
This is by far the most affordable way this season to get this essential course for anyone looking to spend time in avalanche terrain touring, ice climbing, or mountaineering. It’s a three day course that covers a semester worth of information in a mix of class room and field sessions. This education hasn’t been this affordable since I took my first avalanche course two decades ago. Grab your touring partner and sign up for this today while we still have many dates available! Sign up here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM” to be able to bring your friend for free! Discount lodging at the NEM Bunkhouse is also available!
AIARE Avalanche Rescue Course $195 ($97.50pp)
Buried to my waist in an avalanche I remotely triggered… this rescue went smoothly
This 8 hour course is for anyone who might venture into avalanche terrain. It is designed for anyone who has yet to take a formal avalanche course like the AIARE 1 mentioned above, anyone looking to take their AIARE 2 course listed below, or anyone who hasn’t refreshed their avalanche rescue skills in awhile. A little bit of classroom followed by a lot of in the field realistic avalanche rescue practice. Time and money well spent! We only have two dates open this season so don’t delay grabbing a spot for you and your partner here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”. Discount lodging at the NEM Bunkhouse is also available!
Ice Climbing $325 ($162.50pp)
Author on Drool of the Beast (Grade 5), photo courtesy of Brent Doscher
Been curious about expanding your climbing season to the frozen months? Use this Cyber Monday deal to make it attainable! Book here and use promo code “DAVIDNEM”.
Introduction to Backcountry Skiing $325 ($162.50pp)
Photo courtesy of Erik Howes
Are you an expert skier at the resorts and looking to take adventure to the next level? Our backcountry ski skills course is jammed packed with necessary skills to get your shredding the pow out of bounds and away from the lines. Skiing the backcountry is about freedom and adventure. Out here, you earn your turns – but as you will discover the uphill travel is just as rewarding as the downhill descent.
Participants need to be competent skiing intermediate [blue] terrain at their local ski hill. The outdoor portion of this course may be held at Pinkham Notch or in Crawford Notch if condition allow it may also be held at one of the local ski hills with an uphill policy.
Backcountry Ski Touring $325 ($162.50pp)
Photo courtesy of Corey Fitzgerald
Already have your basic backcountry ski skills dialed and looking to expand your skill set? This course is designed to get you into more involved terrain like the more advanced Granite Backcountry Alliance glades and areas like Gulf of Slides, Tuckerman Ravine, Burt Ravine, etc.
This course is for the proficient backcountry tourer who wants to work on some more technical skills like snow anchors, roped/glacier movement, rappelling, and more to access the most difficult of ski terrain.
One Day Mountaineering Skills Course $295 ($147.50pp)
If you’ve never worn mountaineering boots or practiced “self-arrest” with an ice axe this is the course for you. Learn the foundation of skills that will help you travel in the mountains during winter more safely and comfortably. This is an excellent course for those pursuing the winter 4000 footers!
Have some bigger mountains on your bucket list? You don’t need to travel out west to hone the skills needed to do so safely and efficiently. This course covers the rope skills used to manage risk on glaciers and includes learning about improvised hauling systems, mechanical rope ascension, and crevasse recognition and avoidance.
Ready to attempt the biggest peak in the northeast in winter? This summit attempt is more than just a climb of the peak. Along the way your guide will teach you about proper preparation, common cold weather injuries and prevention, avalanche awareness, navigation, and more. No prior winter hiking experience is necessary but good fitness is key. The one day Winter Mountaineering Skills course above is often booked before this course if you want to feel best prepared for the day!
There isn’t much! Just book at the direct links I provided today before midnight PST (3am Tuesday EST). Make sure you put “DAVIDNEM” in the promo code to receive the special deal. Booking through the website does not guarantee I will be your guide for the chosen adventure, though if I am available on that date I will be your assigned guide. You can reach out to me at the contact info below with your requested dates and I will get back to you by this evening. My winter season is pretty well booked so far but I do have some mid-week availability still.
This is the single biggest sale I have seen a guide service offer in recent years, so if you’ve been looking for a bargain on quality experiences and education, this… is… it!
CONTACT INFO: You can use the contact form at the bottom of this page to send me a message, or email me at nealpinestart@gmail.com, or message me through my Instagram
In the summer of 1994 a reluctant long-haired 15 year old camper at Horton Center was tied into a climbing rope at the base of Chapel Rock and coached up his first rock climb, a 60-foot moderate with expansive views of Pinkham and Carter Notch (though he didn’t know the name of these notches at the time). About halfway up the climb, he looked to the right and noted the contrast of rugged green mountains, crystal blue sky, and vertically displayed granite. Something in his adolescent mind clicked, and he went on to pursue a lifetime of climbing and guiding around New England, out west, and abroad.
Almost thirty years later an alumni of Horton Center reached out to this former camper having found an old blog post he wrote about some of the climbing on the nearby East Face of Pine Mountain and extended an invitation to revisit the area in an effort to open up new climbing possibilities for the campers.
Of course the former camper was excited to revisit and contribute to this beautiful White Mountain crag that sits just below the North Peak of Pine Mountain. After a few weeks of research it is with great pleasure that I present this info on the climbing at Chapel Rock, 30 years after my first time climbing this crag, and invite you to come enjoy this scenic cliff.
History
Climbing at Chapel Rock (also known as the North Peak of Pine Mountain) possibly started as early as the 1940s and 1950s with the formation of the 10th Mountain Division and the need to train soldiers in the art of technical climbing in order to effectively fight in the World War II European theater. A hand-illustrated book by Dwight Bradley and Tad Pfeffer (Obscure Crags Guide- A Guide to Obscure Cliffs in New Hampshire, and Some in Maine and Vermont), publication date 1972 or 19731, offers this description:
“This small cliff could easily quality [sic] as a one pitch roadside practice rock if it wasn’t for the fact that the road is closed to the public. The small size of the cliff makes it almost not worth the relatively long approach: the cliff is 60’ or 70’ and the walk in is about two miles. It is a really solid, pretty little piece of rock, though loaded with cracks and corners and almost dirt-free. The vertically jointed rock is quartz schist of the Littleton formation.
The climbs are numbered. Seriously. Numbers have been painted on the rock. For instance, numbers one and two are parallel low angle flakes which may be laybacked no hands, and number four is a clean dihedral. The story behind these numbers is that the Green Berets train here (as well as at the E. Face of Pine) during their annual June war games. The rock is studded with rusty Army pins. Those guys must aid everything. To make matters worse, somebody found the time to place a bolt right next to a perfect MOAC placement on the summit.
To get there, take the WMNF Pine Mtn. Tr., which is a road (closed to cars), all the way to its end at the Channel 10 TV tower. From the broadcasting station, a set of powerlines leads E, passing the cliff’s base in about 100 yards. A small trail leads down from the summit, which is occupied by an old rugged cross, making for a quick descent.”
Paul Cormier, who was a camper at Horton Center in the 1960s, recalls the military using the cliffs for training and has shared interesting photos of him performing a Dufersitz rappel and nailing out the impressive looking central nose feature (see photo section). He estimates that Ian Turnbell placed a few of the current bolted anchors about 15 years ago (around 2008?).
(Paul Cormier using the Dülfersitz rappel method at Chapel Rock, circa. 1968)
(Paul Cormier aid climbing the thin seam that comes out the right side of the impressive central “nose”. A keen eye can find the pin scars today from this ascent)
(Paul turning the corner of the roof. Note his brother with the attentive hip belay)
Ian Turnbell, the brother-in-law of Tad Pferrer, co-author of the guidebook mentioned above, also climbed here in the late 1970s and early 1990s. He recalls placing 4 or 5 of the anchors in the late 1980s but isn’t quite sure of the exact dates. He clearly recalls the anchor above Storybook getting moved and I can confirm this was the situation when I checked the site in Fall 2023. There are two bolts without hangers to the right of the current three bolt Storybook anchor.
In 1997 Al Simons and Steve Buck placed or replaced the bolted anchors on Storybook and Easy Rider, which is probably when the Storybook anchor was moved. Other anchors that were probably placed (or replaced) at that time are a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of “The Flake”. A two bolt anchor at the top of “Whistling in the Dark” which is set a bit far back from the edge and has no chains. This will be one of the first anchors I try to replace with a modern glue-in anchor that is below the lip of the cliff. Another two-bolt anchor with chains is at the top of Easy Rider. It should be noted that the camp leaves locking carabiners on these chains during the camp season to facilitate their climbing program. If you find any locking carabiners on any of the fixed anchors at this privately-owned crag please leave them in place. There may also be fixed ropes above these bolted anchors that counselors leave in place to help with accessing these anchors during the camp season. These should also be left in-place.
Access
This entire area is on the private property of the Horton Center and access to the climbing area is only permitted outside of the summer camp season. Climbing here is NOT PERMITTED from June 10th through August 15th. The climbing area is very close to the Camp facilities so please follow the approach directions carefully so as to not trespass on the area of the Camp that is off limits (essentially all buildings and grounds past the Pine Mountain Loop Trail, see directions and beta photos below).
Getting There
From Route 16 north of Pinkham Notch and south of Gorham take Dolly Copp Road (not maintained in winter) 1.9 miles to the parking lot for Pine Link Trail (19T 032216E, 4913606N 1646 elev.). From Route 2 in Randolph take Pinkham B Road (not maintained in winter) 2.5 miles to the parking lot for Pine Link Trail (19T 032216E, 4913606N 1646 elev.).
Take Pine Mountain Road. 700 feet from the parking lot the road may be gated. If it is, park at the Pine Link Trail parking lot and walk the 1.3 miles (560+ elev.) to the Pine Mountain Loop Trail (19T 0323413E, 4915203N 2180 elev.) If the road is not gated you may drive this approach carefully. The road is narrow in spots and there may be a vehicle coming the other direction. Park in one of the small pull offs close to the Pine Mountain Loop Trail before you reach the Horton Center Camp.
(The pulloff just past this sign is the last parking spot the public may use to access this climbing area if the gate is open. Do not drive past the yellow sign)
Hike the Pine Loop Trail .3 miles (95+ elev.) to the base of the climbing area (19T 0323769E, 4915255N 2220 elev.)
The Climbs
From left to right the established routes are as follows:
The Flake (5.3)
The most left route at the crag, history says that this route was often solo climbed by the more adventurous counselors at the nearby summer camp. It is a striking feature and while only 5.3 in difficulty you won’t find protection until about 20 feet up unless you carry a Black Diamond #5 cam or larger. The crux is the first few moves though and you’ll soon be able to get your leg behind the flake if need be and start finding protection higher up as the crack narrows. A two bolt anchor with chains is about 60 feet from the ground.
Lost and Found (5.9+)
A bouldery direct start gets you up to the stellar 5.5ish finger crack if you don’t use the pine tree at about 5.9+. An alternate start just to the right that utilizes the tree is probably around 5.7 though difficult to protect on lead. Once pulling the last tricky move to gain the lower angle crack above you’re in for some of the best 5.4-5.5 finger crack jamming you’ve ever done in NH. At the end of the crack a new two bolt anchor with rap rings was installed on September 4th, 2023 by Bob Ahern and David Lottmann.
(After getting through the initial tricky start of Lost and Found you are rewarded with this stellar 5.5ish finger crack)
Storybook (5.5)
A very interesting chimney system with ample protection, fun stemming, and some cool views into a deep chasm into the cliff mid-route. At the top is a three bolt anchor with chains set up on two of the bolts.
The Nose (A1?)
This was actually done as an aid climb by Paul Cormier around 1968, (see photo in history section).
Whistlin’ in the Dark (5.9)
The steep left face of Easy Rider, great jamming and movement with good protection. History says that the counselors at the nearby camp could not claim they had climbed this route unless they did it under a full moon. The two bolt anchor at the top is not in a great spot and will hopefully be updated and moved over the edge in the near future.
Easy Rider (5.6)
An aesthetic line (where the rope is) up the left facing dihedral. You can stay in the original corner for a bit to up it to 5.7ish or look to get into the right side crack early to keep the grade at 5.6. Fun moves with amazing views of the Imp Face, Cartner Notch, and Pinkham Notch over your right shoulder. And is that Mount Madison behind you at the top? Why yes, it is. The route ends at a two bolt anchor with long chains.
Note: Above these climbs are some fixed ropes that the camp staff utilize to set up top-ropes for their climbing program. Please do not alter/remove the ropes or locking carabiners that may be there when you visit.
Descent
All of these climbs (except Whistlin’) have easy-to-use fixed anchors for descending. There are plans to upgrade these anchors to glue-in style anchors with ramheads or mussey hooks in the not-too-distant future. If you decide to top out it is a short scramble to the scenic “Chapel Rock” lookout where a cross and natural pulpit reside. During camp season this ledge was a fond memory as the camp conducts “Evening Vespers” here… and I would stare off at the distant mountains as the sun set and spark a lifetime passion for time spent in the mountains. A short walk back down a nice path brings you back to the bog boardwalk that leads you back to the base of the cliff. Please be mindful of the signage that will keep you from entering the camp proper.
Support Public Access to Chapel Rock
Public access to Chapel Rock is NOT guaranteed. When climbing here be the best stewards you can possibly be. Horton Center does have the right to restrict access at any time of year if they have an event, so if you are asked to leave by staff please comply with a smile. You can support the mission of Horton Center and thank them for allowing access with a donation here.
1 From phone interview with Tad Pfeffer on 9/16/2023
Salewa has released the Salewa Wildfire 2 Approach Shoes. I reviewed the original Salewa Wildfire Edge back in 2019 and liked them so much I reached out right away for a media sample when I saw this newer version was out. Now that I’ve had a few weeks to try them I’m ready to share my thoughts. Let’s start with who these are best suited for.
Like its predecessor the Salewa Wildfire 2 is a high end supportive approach shoe. It has the lateral torsional rigidity to keep your feet comfortable over many miles of rough uneven terrain yet enough medial flex to feel sensitive enough on technical scrambles. These qualities make these a great choice for a technical approach shoe for climbers, and durable choice for White Mountain hikers and 4k chasers, as well as long distant trail hikers. All of these groups, and possibly the latter the most, will appreciate the breathability of the recycled mesh upper.
Sizing/Fit/Comfort
Interestingly I had to go up a full size in these compared to when I reviewed the Wildfire Edge back in 2019 (US Men’s Size 8). To get a proper fit in these I needed to go into a US Men’s Size 9 (EU 42). Once I did that though they fit amazing, and like before I felt no need to adjust the adjustable footbeds that come with these shoes. The midsole and insole provide plenty of cushion and having feet that “run hot” I was a huge fan of the breathable mesh uppers.
Traction/Performance
I’ve developed quite a bit of faith in the POMOCO sole over the last few years. While I had some concerns with the soles in my 2019 review either the formula has changed a bit or my technique has improved (maybe both)? These soles are some of the grippiest soles I have ever tested. It is hard to quantitively compare the true friction performance of the different sole compounds I can state that these feel almost as grippy as Stealth C4, but definitely more durable and long lasting. Laced snugly I felt plenty secure in 4th and easy fifth class terrain (up to 5.6). I also appreciated the soft internal gaiter which helped keep debris out while out on more than one bushwhacking adventure.
Summary
The Salewa Wildfire 2 Approach Shoes have a solid standing in my personal “Top Three Approach Shoes” category. If you are currently in the market for some approach shoes see if your local outdoor shop carries these. If they don’t you might try a pair from one of these online retailers, most who accept free returns/exchanges if you don’t get the size just right.
Purchase
Men’s and Women’s models available, along with a Goretex model for those who prefer waterproof models.
