If a suitable ledge for stacking the climbing rope is not available, coil the rope over your anchor attachment. For maximum efficiency your coils should either start longer and end short, or start short and end long (never the same size coils!).
Choosing the right choice depends on who is leading the next pitch. If your partner is leading the next pitch you want to start with long coils progressively getting smaller. That way, when they start to lead, the smaller coils on top should feed off smoothly. This prevents looping under a longer coil, which creates tangles.
If you are leading the next pitch you should start with smaller coils progressively getting bigger. Then, after your partner tethers to the anchor, you can carefully “flip” the whole lap coil over onto their tether. The smaller coils (your end of the rope) should now be on top of the lap coil. They should feed off smoothly.
It takes some practice to do this neatly to avoid tangles. When done correctly the climbing party will lose very little time at the belay transition. If the lap coils are not tidy, re-stack or recoil the rope. This ensures the leader end will feed smoothly during the next pitch.
Have you been doing this?
Ever have a rope coil mess that you just toss down the cliff below you hoping for the best?
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Disclaimer: The Reepschnur Rappel is an advanced climbing technique. Like all technical climbing techniques, misunderstanding or misapplication can lead to serious bodily injury or death. Seek qualified in-person instruction on this technique from an AMGA certified guide or a seasoned and vetted mentor. You take all responsibility in attempting any climbing technique you learn from the internet.
Last week my partner Foster and I found ourselves at the top of the second pitch of the classic Wanderlust route on Humprey’s Ledge, North Conway NH. We were climbing with a single 70 meter Mammut Alpine Dry Climbing Rope.
Comments on Mountain Project indicated a 70m double rappel would just barely reach the ground. I chose instead to conduct a Reepschur Rappel. I had read about this technique in a couple of different climbing texts. I felt it would be a good choice for the situation we were in. In fact if you are not sure your ropes will reach the next anchor or the ground this is a great method to understand.
To begin, I tethered into the anchor. This allowed me to untie from my rope end. Then I fed a little more than half the rope through the fixed anchor rings. I then lowered Foster directly from the anchor with a Munter hitch and a third hand friction hitch backup. There are many ways you could lower your partner like a redirected plate. The advantage of lowering your partner is clear. You can measure accurately how far you need to go to reach the next anchor. In our case, it meant reaching the ground. The middle mark of the rope passed through my lowering system. It traveled about 20 feet down the cliff. Then Foster reached the ground.
At this point, I tied an overhand on a bight on the brake side of the lowering system. I then clipped it with a locking carabiner to the strand I had lowered Foster on. This essentially creates what some folks call a “GriGri Rappel.” You can now conduct a single strand rappel on this strand with any appropriate device. A blocked “GriGri rappel” is pretty simple. The challenge is how to recover your rope when the “pull” side does not reach the ground.
The solution here is pretty simple. When you reach the end of the “pull” side of the rope, attach enough material to it. This way, you can finish your rappel and still have a connection to the pull side for rope recovery. What you attach to this side can be anything. You could untie a 20 foot cordelette. This is especially true if your joining knot is a Flat Overhand Bend. You could chain all of your quick-draws together. You could literally use shoelaces if you needed to. Use whatever you need to finish your single strand blocked rappel and still have a connection to the “pull” side. Once you are secure, either at the next anchor or the ground, you can pull your chain of connection. This will allow you to recover your rope.
This technique really opens up the potential of climbing with “pull cords” which can be insanely light and pack-able. The Petzl Purline is an industry favorite. It is ideal if the climbing party only wants to carry one fully rated dynamic climbing rope. Climbers can still conduct full rope length rappels.
Dangers!
If you unintentionally install your device on the pull side of this blocked rappel it would end in tragedy. Be paranoid of this error and don’t make it!
If your rope gets stuck while pulling your pull cord, you likely won’t have any rated climbing rope. This means that you can’t “lead back up.” You can’t fix the problem like you would in a more traditional double rope rappel system.
Skinny pull cords can be hard to grasp and pull especially if there is a lot of friction above. I fondly remember trying to rappel with a pull cord. It was 60 meters of 5mm accessory cord on Cathedral Ledge. This was almost two decades ago. We read about the technique in “Climbing Magazine.” In moderate winds, our pull cord wrapped itself around our main climbing line dozens of times. We got down with only mild hypothermia. We had to build an improvised 9:1 haul system to actually pull the rope down.
With those considerations and warnings in mind the Reepschnur rappel likely deserves more awareness in the recreational climber’s repertoire. Like many advanced climbing techniques, we usually learn about them directly from a certified climbing guide. Alternatively, books like the Mountain Guide Manual, published with advanced users in mind also give this information. This post aims to introduce this valuable technique to a broader audience. I sincerely hope that the audience heeds the warnings of nuanced application.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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The Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch are the two biggest additions to the growing market of Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs). Many of you might be wondering which device is the right one for you.
In this video, I will show the key differences between each device. This will help you make an informed decision on which device is best for you. This is not an in-depth review of either device. More in-depth reviews of each device will be linked below in the description as they are published. Below the video is a transcript with greater detail than what I had time to convey in the video. Feel free to skip to any section you would like more information on!
COST
To start our comparison let’s look at retail cost. The manufacturer suggested retail price of the Petzl Neox is $149.95 USD ($€29 Euros) and the Edelrid Pinch is $119.95 USD (€99.95). The difference of $30 USD is not insignificant. The Petzl Neox must be paired with a locking carabiner to function. In contrast, the Edelrid Pinch can be used without a locking carabiner. For comparison the recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner is $18.95 USD.
WEIGHT
Next let’s look at the difference in weight. The Petzl Neox claimed weight is 235 grams. The Edelrid Pinch claimed weight is 234 grams. That’s only 1 gram difference so even Steven right? Well not quite. You see the Edelrid Pinch is designed to be usable without a locking carabiner. It has a secure locking attachment point. You can connect it to any belay loop or master point that is a minimum of 10mm in width. I’ve seen some guides on social media adding a locking carabiner as a sort of “double” lock on the setup. While there isn’t really anything wrong with being “extra” safe, I haven’t seen any reason for concern. This is true when the device is installed properly without using an extra locking carabiner. So, for comparison reasons, the Edelrid Pinch is one locking carabiner lighter. This makes it lighter than a usable Petzl Neox. The recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner weighs 46 grams for comparison.
SIZE
Size wise they are pretty similar. The Petzl Neox is about 4 ¼ inches (10.76 cm) long and 2 ½ inches (6.35 cm) wide and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The Edelrid Pinch is 5 ½ inches (14 cm) long and 2 ¾ inches (7 cm) and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The difference in dimensions is quite minimal. However, you could factor in the additional size of a locking carabiner for the Petzl Neox to function. This may not matter much from a pack-ability standpoint. We will discuss later how having the Edelrid Pinch connected directly to your harness belay loop might be more efficient. It could also be attached to the anchor master point during belays for added efficiency.
ROPE SIZE
The Petzl Neox is approved to be used with single rated climbing ropes between 8.5 and 11 millimeters. The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used with single rated dynamic ropes between 8.5 and 10.5 millimeters and static ropes between 10 to 10.5 millimeters. I haven’t climbed on a single rated rope thicker than 10.5 millimeters in a couple of decades so I don’t think this difference is very notable. It is interesting that the usable threshold for static rope is mentioned to be smaller. I’m not sure exactly why that is. This answer probably is not very relevant to most potential users. Most static ropes likely fall within the 10 to 10.5 millimeter range.
LEAD BELAY FUNCTION
There are some pretty noticeable differences when belaying a leader with the Edelrid Pinch versus the Petzl Neox.
First, the real stand out feature of the Petzl Neox is the smoothness of adding slack quickly to the system. The intuitiveness is also exceptional. The spinning wheel inside the housing simplifies keeping up with a quickly moving climber. This is true even when they make a big reach clip. With the Petzl Neox, it is less likely that a belayer will accidentally “short rope” a lead climber. It is also less likely that the device will unintentionally lock up while trying to add slack to the system.
Second, there is no need for a special hand position when feeding slack with the Petzl Neox. This means the device is easily mastered by anyone who can belay well with a standard tube style belay device.
Lead belaying with the Edelrid Pinch feels much more similar to belaying with a Petzl GriGri. Many seasoned climbers are quite familiar with this. The cam can engage when quickly paying out slack. Make sure to use care. The technical details and instructions illustrate a “quick slack” grip method. An advantage of the Edelrid Pinch is its versatility. You can perform the quick slack method whether you are right handed or left handed. This method takes a little practice to do well but isn’t hard to master with some time. The Petzl Neox essentially has a slightly faster learning curve in the hands of a new belayer.
Finally, one notable difference here is the Edelrid Pinch can be connected directly to your belay loop. You do not need a locking carabiner. This keeps the device about 4 inches (10 cm) to your body. This means you can pay out a little more rope with each arm motion. I need to spend more time belaying lead climbers with both of these devices. This will help me decide if this difference is truly noteworthy.
DIRECT ANCHOR BELAY FUNCTION
Both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch can belay a second directly off an anchor. This applies in either a single pitch or multi-pitch setting. There are some differences between the two devices to discuss here.
First, taking slack in with the Petzl Neox is extremely easy thanks to the spinning wheel in the housing. When using a hand on both the load and belay line, the rope pulls through the device like a high efficiency pulley. There is very little noticeable friction. This is a blessing for anyone with a bit of elbow tendinitis. Also with the Petzl Neox rope diameter really doesn’t change the amount of effort pulling slack through the device requires.
The Edelrid Pinch feels quite similar in effort to pulling slack with a Petzl GriGri. Thinner ropes will pull easier than thicker ropes.
They cam almost instantly when presented with a load. This is true, for example, when a seconding climber falls. A brake hand must be properly on the rope to provide some resistance on the other side of the device. There have been some dramatic social media videos shared that how the Petzl Neox will not cam for quite some time in the event of a missing brake hand.
Perhaps the Edelrid Pinch will make some climbers feel a little more secure. It does seem to cam more quickly when a brake hand is absent. However, both devices clearly state in their instructions that a brake hand MUST be present. It must be in the correct position to provide resistance on the brake strand side of the device. Neither of these devices are considered “hands free” in any mode of use!
FIXED POINT BELAY OF LEAD CLIMBER!
The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used in a Fixed Point Belay orientation. This technique of belaying a leader offers advantages in certain situations. It is the first device I know of that the manufacturer actually approves for this use. I will likely experiment more with this option this winter while testing the Edelrid Pinch ice climbing.
LOWERING DIRECTLY FROM ANCHOR
Both devices are capable of lowering smoothly directly from the anchor. Likely the biggest difference here is the Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” feature. This feature is very similar to what Petzl introduced when they released the Petzl GriGri+. By design, if the release lever is pulled too far when lowering, the cam will re-engage. This can happen when lowering from top-rope or directly from the anchor. To continue lowering, the user needs to release the handle back to the start position. Then, pull the handle back down to resume the lower. Alternatively, pull the handle harder to get past the “anti-panic” zone. The latter option is considered “advanced”.
While this “anti-panic” feature is probably good for less experience belayer it might be off-putting to more advanced users. Well Edelrid probably thought of that. They included a small screw. It can be inserted in the device to disable the anti-panic feature. I haven’t disabled the feature yet. I want a little more hands-on experience. This will help me better compare it to the anti-panic feature of the Petzl GriGri+ for a future video.
With either device follow the instructions and redirect your brake strand for a smooth and secure lower.
IMPROVISED HAULING FUNCTION
Both devices function almost identical in a hauling set up. As I mentioned in my detailed video on the Petzl Neox, I initially thought the spinning wheel might add efficiency. I was referring to its use in an improvised haul. However, I later realized the wheel is locked when the device is under tension. Therefore, there is no advantage of hauling with a Petzl Neox over a Petzl GriGri or the Edelrid Pinch. They both function well as progress captures and reduce friction efficiency in the hauling system at about the same level. One last minute detail is the Edelrid Pinch can be attached directly to the anchor without a locking carabiner. This saves you about 4 inches (10 cm) of more efficiency. You have fewer resets in your improvised hauling system.
SINGLE STRAND RAPPELLING (ABSEILING) FUNCTION
Both devices can be used for a single strand rappel. The big difference between the two is similar to the difference mentioned above in the lowering section. The Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” function which is probably most noticeable during a rappel. If you plan to do a lot of rappelling on a single strand, you might want to disable the anti-panic feature. Consider doing this at some point with the Edelrid Pinch. I recommend keeping it engaged for a few rappels first. This will allow you to see which you would prefer more.
ROPE ASCENSION
There is a notable difference in the use of these two devices when ascending a fixed rope. For the most part the Edelrid Pinch feels like a Petzl GriGri as a progress capture during rope ascension. The Petzl Neox makes it noticeably easier to pull rope through the device while standing in your leg loop. This is because the device is not loaded, unlike a haul system, and the wheel spins during that action. On a long rope climb, you will save a little energy with the Petzl Neox. However, exactly how much energy you save is debatable.
SUMMARY
Now for the hard part… which device is best for you? The crowning achievement of the Petzl Neox is the device’s ability to efficiently pay out slack. It can also take in slack as if the rope is just traveling through a pulley. The Petzl Neox is extremely beginner friendly requiring no special hand techniques other than quality PBUS belay technique.
The Edelrid Pinch is kind of breaking the mold here being the first Assisted Braking Device that can attach to the anchor point autonomously. This is a very intriguing design choice. It can be backed up easily with a separate locking carabiner if that is desired. Its function is quite similar to the long-time standard Petzl GriGri. It has an anti-panic feature that the user can decide to disable. It also has a really competitive suggested retail price when compared to any other device in this category.
You are probably already considering these two devices. They are likely options if you are in the market for a new Assisted Braking Device. I hope this comparison video has been informative. It has shown you some of the differences, some which are significant and some which are subtle. If you enjoyed this video, please like, share, and subscribe. Your support helps me cover new climbing gear, clothing, and equipment. It will help you get out into the mountains for some adventure!
Questions?
Let me know in the comments below and I will do my best to respond in a timely manner!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
A media sample of both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch were provided to the author at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!
I first learned of the “Backside of the Clove Hitch” in 2017 while reading The Mountain Guide Manual and soon after attended a clinic on its use given by Marc Chauvin, one of the authors of this impressive tome of knowledge. Adding this tool to your repertoire will give you more options and problem solving capacity while climbing, especially during transitions. From my experience while many guides use this tool it has been slower to catch on in the greater recreational climbing circles. This post hopes to bring more general awareness of this useful technique.
While the most common way to use this technique is to transition from climbing to rappelling it actually can be quite efficient in reverse. Last week my climbing partner and I rappelled down to a semi-hanging belay stance where we needed to pull the rope, then lead back out to the top of the cliff. There are a few ways to do this but utilizing the backside of the clove hitch technique had some real advantages.
One of the biggest advantages with this and the associated “Backside Rappel Feed” is that one of the two climbers can always stay tied in to one end of the rope. This ensures that the party will never drop their rope, and if a middle mark is at the anchor it eliminates the need for a “stopper” knot in the other free end of the rope. The free end will be less likely to get caught somewhere with out a stopper knot, and there is no need to remember to remove the stopper knot.
While the middle mark and being tied in to one end will prevent the potential for rappelling off the end of your rope, pre-rigging the second person to rappel will add even another layer of redundancy. In the avoidable instance where your middle mark is incorrect and you manage to rappel off the free end of your rope, with a pre-rigged partner at the anchor, you will essentially have just gone from a double strand rappel to a single strand rappel. Disaster avoided, but let’s make sure correct middle marks are used instead ok?
In its simplest form, the backside of the clove hitch technique is just using the climbing rope from “behind” the first climber’s clove hitch as a full strength completely adjustable tether. You would do the same thing with a simple overhand on a bight on that strand but the clove hitch allows you to custom the length of the attachment often leading to a more comfortable stance. I can recall many cramped rappel stations where had I known about this technique I would have quickly and easily secured my climbing partner a few feet away from me so we would not be uncomfortably on top of each other at the station.
One very important difference between using the backside of the clove hitch and the more traditional individual “tether” climbers often use is the security of the second climber relies on both clove hitches. The second climber needs to be secured by a different manner before the first climber removes their clove hitch. In the more common situation of transitioning to rappel this is simply done by the second climber pre-rigging themselves on rappel above the first climbers rappel device. Once both climbers are rigged to rappel and checks have been made, all clove hitches can be removed and the first climber can start rappelling (staying tied in on the harness to one of the rope ends).
The steps we took in the below video were intentional since we new that Bob would be leading the pitch and I was familiar with the rappel to get us on route. The most logical option in this situation was for us to set up a pretty standard single rope double strand retrievable rappel, but I would tie in with a retraced figure of eight to one end of the climbing rope and rappel first. The other free end of the rope did not need a stopper knot which reduces the chance of snags (or forgetting to remove it before pulling the rope).
I rappelled down to the belay station, built a quick anchor, and clove hitched myself to the anchor with the climbing rope. After I came off rappel and signaled to Bob he could start descending I tied another clove hitch on the strand “behind” by clove hitch and had a locking carabiner all ready to go to Bob’s belay loop when he arrived. Once he was clipped into that locker he could take himself off rappel, we could pull the free unknotted end of the rope through the top rappel anchor, stacking our rope as we pulled, and when we had the free end in hand Bob only needed to tie-in and get ready to start leading out from our station.
Summary
In recreational climbing it is beneficial to do more with less. A lot of climbers, myself included, use tools like the Petzl Connect Adjust or a sling to tether into the an anchor during a transition. Using the backside of your clove hitch to quicky create a super strong and fully adjustable tether for your parter is a solid skill to have in your tool kit. I hope this post has clearly explained the process and demonstrated some of the benefits of the technique. If you have any questions please share them below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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About ten years ago after a full day of climbing with my friend Rob we were sitting at the local brewery about to finish our second pint when a disagreement on the length of the classic Upper Refuse ramp came up. At this point I had likely guided the route over a hundred times and was intimately familiar with every move, variation, and gear placement. I claimed that the traditional 3 pitch ramp section of the route (excluding the scramble off at the very top) could be done in one well executed 60 meter lead. Rob called BS. We asked the bartender to keep our tab open and hopped in the car and drove to the top of the cliff to settle this disagreement.
I racked up and we jogged down the climbers descent trail to the Barber Wall area and scrambled over to the base of the route. I blasted up the variation that can be done in one rope stretching 60m pitch, belayed Rob up, and we drove back to the brewery. After the first sip of a fresh pour Rob looked at me and said “I guess you can climb Upper Refuse in one pitch”. We had only been away from our seats for an hour and 15 minutes.
The following contains MASSIVE SPOILERS regarding how I climb this in one pitch. Gear placements and moves will be described in detail. If you haven’t enjoyed an on-sight of this classic moderate trad route I would suggest skipping this section. If you want all the beta though here you go!
Rope Suggestion: I’m a big fan of the Sterling Nano 8.9mm rope. Super light weight and it’s triple rated (single, half, or twin use). Of course this post is about doing this with a 60 meter rope… if you have a 70 meter you could likely do any variation and still easily reach the end of the ramp (but watch that rope drag!)
Difficulty: The traditional route follows a path rated 5.5 on the Yosemite Decimal System. The variation I will describe is a grade harder, or 5.6 in difficulty. If this rating is near your traditional lead limit, or your partners following ability, I highly recommend you take advantage of at least one of the two cozy belay ledges on this route and break the climb up into 2 or 3 pitches. Climbing this in one long pitch will be more tiring then breaking the pitches up and having little breaks during your climb.
Route: From the starting ledge (accessed from either climbing a route below like Fun House or hiking down from the top and traversing the large Barber Wall tree ledge, use caution on the last 3rd class step to the ledge, there is a safer variation to this approach a few feet before the exposed slab approach) start up the obvious ramp just to the right of the intimidating Black Crack.
While there are a couple places a new leader should place gear here the climbing is pretty secure 5.3 face climbing on positive holds. I wait to place my first piece, a .3 Black Diamond C4, until I reach a splitter vertical crack in the left side wall. This piece is bomber and the crack is shallow enough that there is no potential for the cam to walk. I clip this one direct to the sewn sling on the cam, no extension needed.
Continue up the corner another 10 to 15 feet until you spot one of the best nut placements you’ve ever seen, again on the left hand side in a vertical crack. A few different sizes will work here, including some small CAMP Tricams, but the Black Diamond #12 (green) is perfect! I extend an alpine draw on this because it is a nut.
The climbing steepens a little but the holds stay positive. Continue up until you reach a comfortable stem and a vertical crack with a small tree growing out of it accepts a bomber Black Diamond .5 C4 Camelot. Like the first placement this one can be clipped directly into the sewn sling, no extension needed.
Make a few balancy moves to the right (now you are directly above the traditional belay ledge) and reach up to some big jugs and a great vertical crack on the left. Place a Black Diamond #1 C4 Camelot and clip it direct, no extension needed. You are about to make what I think is the crux move of this variation. Look for a small but good foot down to the right on the small arete itself. Commit to that foot, find anything even remotely decent for your left foot, and reach high and right to get a secure hold on the arete. Many make this move harder by trying to stay in the corner but that crack doesn’t continue. The best route is to move right with both hands as early as possible.
Now you have a dozen feet of easy climbing in the traditional chimney section of the route but you won’t be staying in the chimney long. As soon as you reach the small roof on the right tuck your Black Diamond #2 C4 up under the roof and place an extended alpine draw on it. This extension is crucial as without it your rope with be running over the lip of the small roof and causing massive drag. Once you get the sling out of the way of your feet pull out to the right of the roof on a great side pull and decent friction foot hold. As you rock over more to the right you’ll see a vertical crack that was obscured from below. It isn’t intuitive, but get your left hand, thump UP, into this crack. Trust me, you’ll get it once you’ve done it. I stem out far to the right here for great feet and a hands free rest if need. Make a few moves up the crack (optional to sling the small tree or place a cam here) and gain the spacious pitch 2 belay ledge.
Leaving the ledge there are options for smaller cams and solid nut placements here. In the past I’ve skipped this placement but in the video I opted to place a slightly over cammed Black Diamond .4 C4. The layback moves up the left side crack are not very strenuous and once you stem back to the right side crack you can reach up and grab the pine tree and the business is pretty much over.
Easier climbing again and then pause. Do not go left into the corner, but move out right on good feet and small hands (and great exposure) until below a short vertical crack. An optional Black Diamond .3 C4 can be placed here which I’ve found very useful when I’ve had to finish this climb in light rain, but it can be skipped. Make one move up to a very solid left hand and stance. Here close to the arete you’ll find about as perfect as a Black Diamond .75 C4 Cam placement in a horizontal that you could ever hope for. The rope is heavy at this point as you are almost out of rope. I extend this one with a quickdraw.
Finish the climb by climbing the left arcing crack to the top. Laybacking the crack and getting both feet in the crack for one or two moves will make it feel more secure. Look for an amazingly thin undercling on a flake to the left just before you top out. Find the good top out hand hold and resist the urge to use your knee on the last move… theres some nice small footholds there, finish it in good style!
Here many climbers miss seeing the piton anchor. It is low to the ground a few feet in front of you. Leaves often obscure it. The pins are quality, but can easily back them up with a Black Diamond #1 C4 or a .75.
Look back down the route and let your partner know you are off belay (they likely already removed their belay device and are standing at the first move because you are out of rope). Communication is quite easy here because you have line of sight.
Here’s some FPV of me climbing this yesterday showing each gear placement discussed above and the final anchor!
Well that’s the beta for climbing Upper Refuse in one 60 meter pitch. I think it climbs really well this way but again urge you to be familiar with the route before attempting this. If it’s your first time on the climb I would suggest you be a solid 5.8 traditional leader before trying to link all these pitches.
Exit: A few slabby moves allow you to basically hike off to the left from this ledge. If you would like a cooler finish as soon as you reach hiking terrain look for a weakness to the right and make some fun low fifth class moves to the very top and belay from the fence while tourists look at you oddly. I’ve come up with some great jokes to some of their questions over the years.
Me: After setting up my anchor and letting my partner know they are on belay… “How did you all get up here?”
Tourist: “We took the easy way!”
Me: “Oh there is a hiking trail?”
Tourist: “No…. we drove….”
Me: “There is a road to the top!?” <- said with a look of confusion and amazement…
Tourist: “Umm…. ya….”
Me: Yelling down to my partner who just started climbing “Hey Bob! There is a road to the top!!!”
Me: Looking at the tourists…. “I can’t believe Bob told me this was the only way we could get to the top of this cliff. I’m going to kill him when he gets up here!”
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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Disclaimer: Some of the techniques discussed in this post require advanced knowledge of technical rope systems in a vertical environment. Subtleties and nuances abound. Seek qualified instruction from an AMGA certified guide or experienced mentor. Climbing is inherently dangerous, you do so at your own risk. Affiliate links below support this blog.
Using a Petzl Nano Traxion Progress Capture Device to belay my second on low fifth class slab terrain.
For over a year I have caught a few social media posts of highly certified guides belaying their clients non-traditionally with a Progress Capture Device or “PCD”. This technique has crept into the recreational climbers tool kit and for good reason, it has some real real advantages over belaying with a more traditional plaquette (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) or the common Assisted Braking Devices “ABDs” the Petzl Gri Gri 2, Petzl Gri Gri+, the new Petzl Neox.
Choosing to belay with a PCD should be an informed and conscious decision and I hope this post will give you some of the information you should consider when making that decision. The biggest piece of this puzzle simply comes down to appropriate terrain.
Terrain– This technique is most suitable of belaying a second in 4th and easy 5th class terrain where the probability of a fall is low and the climber is moving at a higher rate of speed. Basically if the second isn’t moving faster then 1 meter a second (3 feet a second) you likely should belay with a more traditional method like a plaquette or ABD.
This low 5th class slab climbing terrain is one example of where belaying with a PCD might be a good choice
Manage Slack– It is imperative with any “toothed” PCD to have minimal slack in the system as the second is climbing. This should be manageable given the lack of resistance when pulling rope, especially through the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Micro Traxion. All three of the PCDs I link below have technical documentation that indicate a load over 4kN or more will lead to sheath damage. If slack is removed while the second climbs, especially towards the end of the pitch when there is less dynamic rope in the system, it should be easy to avoid a 4kN load on the PCD.
Image from Petzl.com
Have Improvised Rescue Skills– This point is well illustrated by the amount of climbers who use plaquette style devices (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) but have yet to practice lowering from a loaded device. As mentioned earlier using a PCD to belay a second should be in terrain where a fall or lower is not expected. If either of those two things could be needed I would likely choose a different belay technique, however, unexpected does happen. If you are experienced enough to belay your second with a PCD you should have a solid understanding of release-able load transfers. You should have the skills to swap a loaded PCD with something that would allow a smooth lower (Munter Hitch, LSD, Gri Gri, etc). Making this transition safely and smoothly is something best learned from a qualified guide or instructor. (These skills are covered and practiced in my custom Self Rescue Course, send a message if interested in that curriculum).
* Compatible with the PUR’LINE 6 MM cord only for hauling a pack
* Compatible with the RAD LINE 6 MM cord (more information in the Instructions for Use at http://www.petzl.com)
The Petzl Tibloc is obviously the lightest and most affordable of the three Petzl PCDs I’m comparing here. It is well established as an excellent ultralight weight device for glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and improvised rescue. The addition of the spring loaded mechanism to initiate capture on the newest model of the Petzl Tibloc means it can work as a belay for a second, however, the lack of a pulley means you will feel noticeable more resistance when pulling slack through the system. For this reason alone I think it is worth considering one of the other two options from Petzl, especially now that there is a choice that weights only 16 grams more. Additionally, care needs to be used when installing the Petzl Tibloc to insure the rope passes through the locking carabiner and not just the device!
Image from Petzl.com
The Petzl Nano Traxion, while costing twice as much as the Petzl Tibloc, has a lot going for it. First, it incorporates a highly efficient (91%) pulley, which makes pulling in slack, regardless of diameter, quite effortless. At only 53 grams it is the lightest PCD + Pulley I have ever tested. Paired with a Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner and a home tied keeper cord this set up has become the newest edition to the back gear loop on my harness.
Image from Petzl.com
The Petzl Micro Traxion is the most expensive and heaviest of these options. The only real advantage of this model is the added mechanism that allows you to lock the cam in the open position so you can use the device as a simple pulley. It’s a pretty small addition to justify the additional cost and weight over the Petzl Nano Traxion.
Context matters. Here I am belaying two fast moving seconds on a YDS 5.1 180 foot long slab pitch. This set up allowed me to keep up with both of them as they climbed the pitch in under 3 minutes.
Compatible Carabiners
My favorite carabiner for all three of these PCDs is the Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner. This small lightweight locking carabiner features a red indicator that aids in visually confirming if it is locked or not and a small hole for attaching a keeper cord to any of these devices. I’m also a fan of the Petzl OK Triact Auto Locking Carabiner and the Petzl OK Ball-Lock Carabiner especially when matched with the Petzl Tibloc.
Deal Alert
Pretty much every product I have linked to in this post is 25% off right now at Backcountry. If you do decide to purchase anything based off the information in this post I really appreciate you using those links. Your support will keep this content coming!
Summary
Climbing techniques continue to evolve with advances in methodology often happening at the highest levels of the sport (certified climbing guides and accredited organizations) and then disseminate to the more general practioners. Belaying with a PCD can lead to efficiency and increased safety in certain climbing situations. Keep in mind the choice should be well informed and consider; terrain, managed slack, and your ability to problem solve unlikely scenarios like needing to transition to an unexpected lower. If you do find yourself in situations where this technique would work for you consider adding the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Rocha SL Carabiner to your kit. After 1400 feet of moderate slab climbing this past weekend with two of my friends my elbows were quite happy I was familiar with this option!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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Leave a long enough tail on your tag line attachment so that you can thread the fixed rappel station and connect your ropes before you disconnect from the tag line and undo what ever knot you used to tag the line. Zero chance of dropping your tag line is a good thing!
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The last few months I’ve been testing out Black Diamond’s newest addition to the ultralight backpack market, the Black Diamond Beta Light 45. I’ve primarily been using it to haul 20 to 30 pounds of climbing gear while running over a dozen climbing trips in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I’ve also carried it with an overnight load on a few search and rescue missions. With over 100 miles of trail use I’m ready to share my thoughts on this pack! First the manufacturer descriptions and technical specifications:
Manufacturer Description
The Beta Light 45L is our answer to the ultralight backpacking revolution. Inspired by our athletes and utilizing a running-vest style suspension harness system from our distance running series packs, the Beta Light 45L is simply built for moving fast on overnight adventures in the backcountry. Whether you’re spending months on the PCT or making the most of a two-week trip, the Beta Light 45L carries all the essentials in a weatherproof, sleek design that doesn’t sacrifice comfort.
Built for moving fast and covering long distances, the Beta Light UL 45 is the ultimate blend of durability, lightweight construction and load carrying comfort. We partnered with Challenge Sailcloth to bring their Ultra 200 body fabric to our Beta Light series to create one of the lightest yet most durable packs on the trail. This durable fabric, combined with taped seams and a roll-top closure, make the pack weatherproof and able to stand up to day-in-day-out use. A simple, Power Mesh stretch pocket and two side pockets provide plenty of external storage options, while the pack’s running-vest inspired shoulder strap harness system provides support and comfort with additional snack pockets and water bottle storage options. A removable hip belt, lightweight aluminum frame, and removable foam back panel provide options for reducing weight even more.
Product Features
Challenge Sailcloth Ultra 200 body fabric is lightweight, tear resistant and extremely durable
Running vest-inspired shoulder straps with extra storage pockets makes for comfortable and dynamic carrying system
Roll-top closure, taped seams and waterproof fabric create weatherproof pack body
Removable frame pad gives structure with minimal weight penalty
External Power Mesh stretch outer pocket and two oversized ripstop side pockets
Removable hip belt system can reduce weight or allow for user modification
Four adjustable and removable Dynex core compression straps secure the pack and allow for alternative adjustment and lashing systems
Internal sleeve is hydration bladder compatible
Modular Design allows quick and secure attachment of the Beta Light Satellite 4L Bag for additional storage
Opinions
Not considering myself a “trail runner” the first thing I noticed when unboxing this pack was the “running-vest” style shoulder strap system. This was the first time I would be using this style suspension system on a pack of this size. I’ll be honest, I was skeptical. For a pack that claims to be able to carry up to 40 pounds how could this style of shoulder strap work out for me? Being open minded helps, and I came to realize you can substitute area for padding of traditional shoulder strap systems and still have quite a comfortable carry. If you’ve never used a running vest style shoulder strap system it may seem weird for a minute. After the first dozen of miles of carrying 30+ loads I saw how these wide contoured thin shoulder straps efficiently distributed the weight in a comfortable manner.
The next aspect of this pack that got my attention is the extremely rugged and light “Ultra 200 Sail Cloth”. It feels like flexible invincible steel. With taped seams and 400 weight on the bottom of the pack I have a lot of confidence in the miles and abuse this pack will handle before any wear is shown. Like many packs of this category they are just made of something different then the old school Nylon Cordura products that had a sub-decade type lifetime. This pack is built to last for more than a decade of adventures, and I’ve been saying it for over a decade consider that when price comparing packs made from less impressive fabrics.
The third standout feature in my opinion is the huge stretchy external back pocket. I used this most often for my chalk bag and my rain jacket, but there’s so much more room here if needed! On a recent SAR mission it easily accepted my full length rolled sleeping pad. The oversized side pockets with angled top designs easily secure traditional 32 ounce wide mount Nalgenes.
As I work my way down the features of this pack I have to appreciate the large roll top opening that lets me dump whole racks of traditional climbing gear, a 60 meter climbing rope, and everything else I need for a day of multi-pitch rock climbing. The roll top closure combined with this fabric makes the pack feel quite water and weather resistant. With limited experience with running style shoulder straps I really liked the stretchy pockets on both shoulder straps using the left side open one to keep my iPhone 13Pro Max secure and accessible and the zippered pocket on the right to stash an assortment of on-the-go snacks.
Summary
While I have a lot of experience testing ultralight backpacks this was the first larger model I’ve tested with a running style shoulder strap system and I can see the merits of this design. Loads up to 30 pounds were quite comfortable to carry and I liked the stream line design of the pack without really any extraneous additions. The pack is made of incredibly robust yet super light fabric and I have no doubt it will hold up well to thousands of miles of adventure. This pack is well designed for Thru-hikers, ultralight backpackers, rock climbers, and mountaineers. If you are interested in shaving some ounces off your 45 liter size backpack while maintaining a comfortable carry and durable design the Black Diamond Beta Light 45 should be on your radar!
A media sample of this backpack was provided at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
The Redirected Clip-Back Lower provides a smooth lower and the rope will stay twist free if you keep the rope running inline with the belay device. This method works with any tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Verso. Don’t forget to add a third hand friction knot on off your belay loop to the brake strand and close your system!
First install the rope onto your tube style belay device as if you were about to belay your partner from your harness. Instead of attaching the belay carabiner to your belay loop, attach it to the master point of your anchor.
Redirect the brake strand through the same locking carabiner so that the brake strand is coming out of the carabiner on the same side as the load strand.
Before lowering attach a third hand fiction hitch to the brake strand and attach that to your belay loop with a locking carabiner.
Make sure the system is closed (either you are tied into the other end of the rope or it is knotted near the end). If your rope is already stacked you are now ready to lower.
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice in a safe setting and seek qualified mentors, instructors, and guides.
Questions or Comments? Please share them below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. Your purchase after visiting these links will earn the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!
There are many reasons why a climbing party may choose to lower a team member during a descent, for example, very windy conditions. While the Munter Hitch only requires a single HMS style locking carabiner the “Redirected Plate” method is another option that only requires a tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Verso and two locking carabiners (or one if lowering through fixed chains).
This method provides one of the smoothest lowers and is probably the easiest to make sure the rope stays twist free.
First install the rope onto your tube style belay device as if you were about to belay your partner from your harness. Instead of attaching the belay carabiner to your belay loop attach it to the master point of your anchor.
Redirect the brake strand through a locking carabiner in the master point of your anchor. It is best if this locking carabiner is slightly smaller than the belay locking carabiner.
Before lowering attach a third hand fiction hitch to the brake strand and attach that to your belay loop.
Make sure the system is closed (either you are tied into the other end of the rope or it is knotted near the end). If your rope is already stacked you are now ready to lower.
An efficient use of this technique when rappelling with a single rope is to thread the rope through the fixed gear as the redirect instead of a locking carabiner. That way when the climber reaches the ground, or the next anchor, you can pull more rope through to the middle mark of your rope, remove your tube style device, put yourself on a double strand rappel, and head on down. Or even more crafty conduct a “Reepschneur” Rappel <- upcoming tech tip!
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice this technique in a safe setting and seek qualified mentorship and instruction.
Questions or Comments? Please share them below!
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase after using one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.
