This winter I have been using the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe for guiding winter Mount Washington ascents. I have also been using it for teaching mountaineering skills courses. The bottom line? This is a solid choice for a general mountaineering axe with some nice features. I chose the 68 centimeter size for my 5’9″ height. The axe is also available in 50, 60, and 75 centimeter lengths. The 68 centimeter size weighs 365 grams.

The head of the axe has a classic shaped pick which is most effective for self-arrest. The sharper and more aggressive tip of the pick is suitable for overcoming the occasional ice bulge. The adze is wider than most similar style axes. It provides a comfortable grip when using the traveling hand position (piolet panne). The small concave dip at the top of the shaft adds comfort for the self-arrest grip. The tool comes with the “LINKIN” removable leash, a $20 value. Personally I don’t like to use leashes on my ice tools so I did remove it before testing.

A removable pick protector is included. For casual climbs without much fall hazard I think it makes sense to leave the tip protector on. As your route becomes more technical with occasional ice bulges and more exposure to long sliding falls I would choose to leave the protector at home or in the car at the trail-head.

A removable spike protector is included as well. I liked how I could slide this up the tool during a casual ascent. This way, it would not interfere with proper “piolet canne” technique. After the axe was put back on my pack and I took my trekking poles out it was quick and easy to cover the sharp spike.

After a half dozen trips into the mountains with the Petzl Glacier Ice Axe, I can easily recommend it. It is suitable for anyone shopping for a well-designed general mountaineering axe. More important than what axe you buy though is that you seek out the training in its proper use. Consider taking a Mountaineering Skills Course so that you can learn proper crampon and ice axe technique before relying on this equipment to protect you. You can use the contact page here to check my availability if you would like to request me as your guide.

Here is a quick video we shot yesterday after a successful summit of Mount Washington where I point out basic nomenclature of a mountaineering axe.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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