rock climbing

Rock Climbing at Chapel Rock, Pine Mountain, Gorham NH

David Lottmann adventure travel, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing , , ,

Prologue

In the summer of 1994 a reluctant long-haired 15 year old camper at Horton Center was tied into a climbing rope at the base of Chapel Rock and coached up his first rock climb, a 60-foot moderate with expansive views of Pinkham and Carter Notch (though he didn’t know the name of these notches at the time). About halfway up the climb, he looked to the right and noted the contrast of rugged green mountains, crystal blue sky, and vertically displayed granite. Something in his adolescent mind clicked, and he went on to pursue a lifetime of climbing and guiding around New England, out west, and abroad.

Almost thirty years later an alumni of Horton Center reached out to this former camper having found an old blog post he wrote about some of the climbing on the nearby East Face of Pine Mountain and extended an invitation to revisit the area in an effort to open up new climbing possibilities for the campers.

Of course the former camper was excited to revisit and contribute to this beautiful White Mountain crag that sits just below the North Peak of Pine Mountain. After a few weeks of research it is with great pleasure that I present this info on the climbing at Chapel Rock, 30 years after my first time climbing this crag, and invite you to come enjoy this scenic cliff.

History

Climbing at Chapel Rock (also known as the North Peak of Pine Mountain) possibly started as early as the 1940s and 1950s with the formation of the 10th Mountain Division and the need to train soldiers in the art of technical climbing in order to effectively fight in the World War II European theater. A hand-illustrated book by Dwight Bradley and Tad Pfeffer (Obscure Crags Guide- A Guide to Obscure Cliffs in New Hampshire, and Some in Maine and Vermont), publication date 1972 or 19731, offers this description:

“This small cliff could easily quality [sic] as a one pitch roadside practice rock if it wasn’t for the fact that the road is closed to the public. The small size of the cliff makes it almost not worth the relatively long approach: the cliff is 60’ or 70’ and the walk in is about two miles. It is a really solid, pretty little piece of rock, though loaded with cracks and corners and almost dirt-free. The vertically jointed rock is quartz schist of the Littleton formation.

The climbs are numbered. Seriously. Numbers have been painted on the rock. For instance, numbers one and two are parallel low angle flakes which may be laybacked no hands, and number four is a clean dihedral. The story behind these numbers is that the Green Berets train here (as well as at the E. Face of Pine) during their annual June war games. The rock is studded with rusty Army pins. Those guys must aid everything. To make matters worse, somebody found the time to place a bolt right next to a perfect MOAC placement on the summit.

To get there, take the WMNF Pine Mtn. Tr., which is a road (closed to cars), all the way to its end at the Channel 10 TV tower. From the broadcasting station, a set of powerlines leads E, passing the cliff’s base in about 100 yards. A small trail leads down from the summit, which is occupied by an old rugged cross, making for a quick descent.”

Paul Cormier, who was a camper at Horton Center in the 1960s, recalls the military using the cliffs for training and has shared interesting photos of him performing a Dufersitz rappel and nailing out the impressive looking central nose feature (see photo section). He estimates that Ian Turnbell placed a few of the current bolted anchors about 15 years ago (around 2008?).

(Paul Cormier using the Dülfersitz rappel method at Chapel Rock, circa. 1968)

(Paul Cormier aid climbing the thin seam that comes out the right side of the impressive central “nose”. A keen eye can find the pin scars today from this ascent)

(Paul turning the corner of the roof. Note his brother with the attentive hip belay)

Ian Turnbell, the brother-in-law of Tad Pferrer, co-author of the guidebook mentioned above, also climbed here in the late 1970s and early 1990s. He recalls placing 4 or 5 of the anchors in the late 1980s but isn’t quite sure of the exact dates. He clearly recalls the anchor above Storybook getting moved and I can confirm this was the situation when I checked the site in Fall 2023. There are two bolts without hangers to the right of the current three bolt Storybook anchor.

In 1997 Al Simons and Steve Buck placed or replaced the bolted anchors on Storybook and Easy Rider, which is probably when the Storybook anchor was moved. Other anchors that were probably placed (or replaced) at that time are a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of “The Flake”. A two bolt anchor at the top of “Whistling in the Dark” which is set a bit far back from the edge and has no chains. This will be one of the first anchors I try to replace with a modern glue-in anchor that is below the lip of the cliff. Another two-bolt anchor with chains is at the top of Easy Rider. It should be noted that the camp leaves locking carabiners on these chains during the camp season to facilitate their climbing program. If you find any locking carabiners on any of the fixed anchors at this privately-owned crag please leave them in place. There may also be fixed ropes above these bolted anchors that counselors leave in place to help with accessing these anchors during the camp season. These should also be left in-place.

Access

This entire area is on the private property of the Horton Center and access to the climbing area is only permitted outside of the summer camp season. Climbing here is NOT PERMITTED from June 10th through August 15th. The climbing area is very close to the Camp facilities so please follow the approach directions carefully so as to not trespass on the area of the Camp that is off limits (essentially all buildings and grounds past the Pine Mountain Loop Trail, see directions and beta photos below).

Getting There

From Route 16 north of Pinkham Notch and south of Gorham take Dolly Copp Road (not maintained in winter) 1.9 miles to the parking lot for Pine Link Trail (19T 032216E, 4913606N 1646 elev.). From Route 2 in Randolph take Pinkham B Road (not maintained in winter) 2.5 miles to the parking lot for Pine Link Trail (19T 032216E, 4913606N 1646 elev.).

Take Pine Mountain Road. 700 feet from the parking lot the road may be gated. If it is, park at the Pine Link Trail parking lot and walk the 1.3 miles (560+ elev.) to the Pine Mountain Loop Trail (19T 0323413E, 4915203N 2180 elev.) If the road is not gated you may drive this approach carefully. The road is narrow in spots and there may be a vehicle coming the other direction. Park in one of the small pull offs close to the Pine Mountain Loop Trail before you reach the Horton Center Camp.

(The pulloff just past this sign is the last parking spot the public may use to access this climbing area if the gate is open. Do not drive past the yellow sign)

Hike the Pine Loop Trail .3 miles (95+ elev.) to the base of the climbing area (19T 0323769E, 4915255N 2220 elev.)

The Climbs

From left to right the established routes are as follows:

The Flake (5.3)

The most left route at the crag, history says that this route was often solo climbed by the more adventurous counselors at the nearby summer camp. It is a striking feature and while only 5.3 in difficulty you won’t find protection until about 20 feet up unless you carry a Black Diamond #5 cam or larger. The crux is the first few moves though and you’ll soon be able to get your leg behind the flake if need be and start finding protection higher up as the crack narrows. A two bolt anchor with chains is about 60 feet from the ground.

Lost and Found (5.9+)

A bouldery direct start gets you up to the stellar 5.5ish finger crack if you don’t use the pine tree at about 5.9+. An alternate start just to the right that utilizes the tree is probably around 5.7 though difficult to protect on lead. Once pulling the last tricky move to gain the lower angle crack above you’re in for some of the best 5.4-5.5 finger crack jamming you’ve ever done in NH. At the end of the crack a new two bolt anchor with rap rings was installed on September 4th, 2023 by Bob Ahern and David Lottmann.

(After getting through the initial tricky start of Lost and Found you are rewarded with this stellar 5.5ish finger crack)

Storybook (5.5)

A very interesting chimney system with ample protection, fun stemming, and some cool views into a deep chasm into the cliff mid-route. At the top is a three bolt anchor with chains set up on two of the bolts.

The Nose (A1?)

This was actually done as an aid climb by Paul Cormier around 1968, (see photo in history section).

Whistlin’ in the Dark (5.9)

The steep left face of Easy Rider, great jamming and movement with good protection. History says that the counselors at the nearby camp could not claim they had climbed this route unless they did it under a full moon. The two bolt anchor at the top is not in a great spot and will hopefully be updated and moved over the edge in the near future.

Easy Rider (5.6)

An aesthetic line (where the rope is) up the left facing dihedral. You can stay in the original corner for a bit to up it to 5.7ish or look to get into the right side crack early to keep the grade at 5.6. Fun moves with amazing views of the Imp Face, Cartner Notch, and Pinkham Notch over your right shoulder. And is that Mount Madison behind you at the top? Why yes, it is. The route ends at a two bolt anchor with long chains.

Note: Above these climbs are some fixed ropes that the camp staff utilize to set up top-ropes for their climbing program. Please do not alter/remove the ropes or locking carabiners that may be there when you visit.

Descent

All of these climbs (except Whistlin’) have easy-to-use fixed anchors for descending. There are plans to upgrade these anchors to glue-in style anchors with ramheads or mussey hooks in the not-too-distant future. If you decide to top out it is a short scramble to the scenic “Chapel Rock” lookout where a cross and natural pulpit reside. During camp season this ledge was a fond memory as the camp conducts “Evening Vespers” here… and I would stare off at the distant mountains as the sun set and spark a lifetime passion for time spent in the mountains. A short walk back down a nice path brings you back to the bog boardwalk that leads you back to the base of the cliff. Please be mindful of the signage that will keep you from entering the camp proper.

Support Public Access to Chapel Rock

Public access to Chapel Rock is NOT guaranteed. When climbing here be the best stewards you can possibly be. Horton Center does have the right to restrict access at any time of year if they have an event, so if you are asked to leave by staff please comply with a smile. You can support the mission of Horton Center and thank them for allowing access with a donation here.

1 From phone interview with Tad Pfeffer on 9/16/2023

Gear Review: Salewa Wildfire 2 Approach Shoes

David Lottmann Footwear Reviews, Gear Reviews, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing , , , ,
Salewa Wildfire 2 Approach Shoes Review

Salewa has released the Salewa Wildfire 2 Approach Shoes. I reviewed the original Salewa Wildfire Edge back in 2019 and liked them so much I reached out right away for a media sample when I saw this newer version was out. Now that I’ve had a few weeks to try them I’m ready to share my thoughts. Let’s start with who these are best suited for.

Like its predecessor the Salewa Wildfire 2 is a high end supportive approach shoe. It has the lateral torsional rigidity to keep your feet comfortable over many miles of rough uneven terrain yet enough medial flex to feel sensitive enough on technical scrambles. These qualities make these a great choice for a technical approach shoe for climbers, and durable choice for White Mountain hikers and 4k chasers, as well as long distant trail hikers. All of these groups, and possibly the latter the most, will appreciate the breathability of the recycled mesh upper.

Sizing/Fit/Comfort

Interestingly I had to go up a full size in these compared to when I reviewed the Wildfire Edge back in 2019 (US Men’s Size 8). To get a proper fit in these I needed to go into a US Men’s Size 9 (EU 42). Once I did that though they fit amazing, and like before I felt no need to adjust the adjustable footbeds that come with these shoes. The midsole and insole provide plenty of cushion and having feet that “run hot” I was a huge fan of the breathable mesh uppers.

Traction/Performance

Salewa Wildfire 2 Approach Shoes Review

I’ve developed quite a bit of faith in the POMOCO sole over the last few years. While I had some concerns with the soles in my 2019 review either the formula has changed a bit or my technique has improved (maybe both)? These soles are some of the grippiest soles I have ever tested. It is hard to quantitively compare the true friction performance of the different sole compounds I can state that these feel almost as grippy as Stealth C4, but definitely more durable and long lasting. Laced snugly I felt plenty secure in 4th and easy fifth class terrain (up to 5.6). I also appreciated the soft internal gaiter which helped keep debris out while out on more than one bushwhacking adventure.

Summary

The Salewa Wildfire 2 Approach Shoes have a solid standing in my personal “Top Three Approach Shoes” category. If you are currently in the market for some approach shoes see if your local outdoor shop carries these. If they don’t you might try a pair from one of these online retailers, most who accept free returns/exchanges if you don’t get the size just right.

Salewa Wildfire 2 Approach Shoes Review

Purchase

Men’s and Women’s models available, along with a Goretex model for those who prefer waterproof models.

Buy from Backcountry.com

Buy from Moosejaw.com

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support this blog. A media sample was provided for purpose of review.

TECH TIP: Cleaning and Lubricating Cams

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Rock Climbing , , ,

Occasionally cams will need some maintenance to continue to operate smoothly. If you find the trigger and springs in your cams getting “sticky” use a mild soap like Nikwax Tech Wash followed by a lubricant like Metolius Cam Lube to restore them to like new operation!

climbing tech tip cleaning cams

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above help support this blog.

Tech Tip- Reduce Effort While Using a Plaquette Style Belay Device

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , , , ,

When using a plaquette style belay device (Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) in Assisted-Braking Mode or Auto-Blocking Mode (to belay a follower directly off the anchor) there are some ways to reduce the amount of effort required to pull slack through the device. This can lead to a more efficient belay as well as save your elbows from over-use injuries like tendinitis (not uncommon in life long climbers and guides).

First make sure you are using an appropriate diameter rope for your device. Skinnier ropes will require less effort to pull slack then thicker diameters but make sure you are staying within the range the manufacture recommends! For reference here are the suggested ranges for some common devices:

Black Diamond Alpine ATC Guide (8.5mm – 9mm single ropes)

Black Diamond ATC Guide (8.9mm – 11mm single ropes)

Petzl Reverso (8.5mm – 10.5mm single ropes)

DMM Pivot (8.7mm – 11mm single ropes)

The skinnier rope you use the less effort it will take to pull slack through the device. Currently my favorite single rope for multi-pitch ice and alpine rock climbing is the Sterling Fusion Nano IX DryXP, 70m. This rope pulls very smoothly through any of the above devices!

Next be sure to use a round stock locking carabiner like the Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate Carabiner for the rope to run around as opposed to a forged carabiner with “ribs”. The rope will pull noticeable smoother around a round stock carabiner.

Climbing Tech Tips
A round stock carabiner makes pulling slack through the device easier than a forged carabiner with “ribs”

Finally consider adding a second carabiner for the rope to run around. This will again reduce the effort of pulling slack through the device with out removing the assisted-braking function.

Two carabiners greatly reduces the amount of effort required to pull slack through the device

I hope this tech tech helps your belays run more smoothly! Your elbows will thank you!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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Tech Tip: Buntline Hitch

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , , , ,
rock climbing tech tip Buntline Hitch

There are many situations in climbing where it makes sense to construct your anchor from the climbing rope you are already attached to versus reaching for a sling or cordelette; most notably when swinging leads or finishing a climb with a tree anchor followed by a walk-off. In recent years the Connecticut Tree Hitch (CTH) has gained popularity among both professional climbing guides and savvy recreational climbers.

The Buntline Hitch is also a suitable option that has a few distinct advantages over the CTH.

  1. The hitch does not require a locking carabiner
  2. The hitch forms a suitable master point for belaying your second (when using a CTH you must tie another bight knot to create a master point).
  3. If tied incorrectly it forms either two half-hitches or a clove-hitch which have a high enough slip strength. The CTH tied incorrectly will catastrophically fail.
  4. It is fast to tie and untie

Credit: Big thanks to Derek DeBruin for sharing this hitch with in the AMGA Professional Facebook Forum and for his continued work disseminating quality information. EDIT: Derek credits Richard Goldstone for teaching him this method.

Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice new skills on the ground and seek qualified instruction.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Tech Tip: Rigging to Lower from a Sport Climb

David Lottmann Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , , ,
Rigging to Lower from a Sport Climb

Rigging to lower from a sport climb is faster, more efficient, and safer than setting up a rappel. Here’s the why and the how!

Faster and More Efficient

When one rigs to lower one only needs to pull up enough rope to pass a bight through the fixed anchor and tie a bight knot that can be clipped to one’s belay loop. If one chooses to set up a rappel instead one needs to pull up at least half the rope (if the rope has an accurate middle mark) or the entire rope up (if the rope does not have an accurate middle mark). This is not only faster than setting a rappel, but safer!

Safer

As mentioned the fact that you do not need to locate the middle of the rope when being lowered leads to a reduction in risk. There are many examples of accidents that resulted from the two ends of a rope not being even during a rappel. When rigging to lower you also have the benefit of still being on belay. If you have led the route prior to rigging the lower the rope will still be traveling through quick draws below offering some protection against an unexpected slip. Finally this method keeps the climber attached to the rope in some form through out the process eliminating the risk of dropping the rope (it happens!).

How

The process isn’t too complicated but there are a few considerations and options.

  1. The first of which is whether or not to tether into the anchor during the process. The best practice depends on the situation, more specifically, the stance. When you arrive at the anchor if there is a decent stance you can omit tethering into the anchor and doing so reduces clutter and speeds the process. If the unexpected slip occurs at this stage your rope is still through the anchor. If you have passed a bight through the anchor some security can be obtained by keeping tension on the bight as you bring it down to your belay loop and tie the bight knot. However if the stance is small and insecure it would be best to tether into the anchor so you can rig to lower more comfortably. While there are a few appropriate tether systems out there one of the best options is the CAMP USA Swing Dynamic Belay Lanyard.
  2. Pull up some slack and thread a bight through the fixed rings on the anchor. Continue to lengthen this bight until it reaches your belay loop and pull it about 8 inches past (below) your belay loop.
  3. Tie a bight knot here. There are a couple bight knots you could use to attach the rope back to your climbing rope. An overhand on a bight works, but is harder to untie then a figure-eight on a bight. I often tie a figure 8 on a bight with an extra wrap or two around the two strands. This makes a secure bight knot that is very easy to untie after it has been loaded (sometimes called a figure-9).
  4. After the bight knot is tied connect it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. Some climbers might chose to add a second reversed/opposed carabiner (locking or not). If only using a single locking carabiner make sure it is locked and properly orientated when you call for “take” and weight the new attachment. Best practice here is to get a little closer to the anchor so when your belayer “takes” you can weight the new attachment and verify everything looks correct the next step.
  5. Untie your original tie in knot and pull the long tail through the anchor.
  6. Remove the quick-draws (or whatever your top-rope anchor was), weight the rope, and ask to be lowered. Watch that you don’t get tripped up on the long tail coming from the backside of the bight knot! Once you are on the ground remove the locking carabiner and bight knot and retrieve your rope by pulling from the belayer side (less rope to pull). Move on to the next climb or head to happy hour (depending on time of day).

Close Your System!

One important caveat to this system, and almost all climbing systems, is to be sure to “close your system”. Essentially this means during your partner check (before anyone starts climbing) you ensure that the unused end of the rope either has a stopper knot tied near the end, is secured around a ground anchor, or tied into your partner. In order to explain the avoidable accident we are preventing I’ll share this simple example. You successfully lead a 35 meter tall route without realizing you are climbing on a 60 meter rope. After rigging to lower your belayer lower’s you and when you are about 10 meters from the ground the unsecured end of the climbing rope slips through the belayer’s brake hand and belay device and you fall to the ground. As unavoidable as this sounds it happens every single year! Close your system!

“I heard lowering through anchors is discouraged as it wears out the fixed gear?”

Professional mountain guides and climbing institutions around the country are actively trying to correct this common public misconception. It stems from the very real and modern ethic that active top-roping through fixed gear is discouraged. Over time, depending on the fixed hardware, this can lead to pre-mature wear on the fixed anchor. It’s easy enough if you plan on top-roping for a bit to use your own carabiners to save some wear on the fixed anchor. Only the last climber will lower through the fixed gear, and modern stainless steel rappel rings and “mussey hooks” can handle this type of use for many years to come. The gains in efficiency and reduction in rappelling accidents justify this technique, and the organizations that promote education and conservation are the same organizations promoting this technique, namely groups like the American Mountain Guide Association, The Access Fund, and The American Alpine Club. There may be some areas where locals are still resisting this modern technique. It’s possible their routes have more aluminum fixed anchors or they don’t have an organizing body that works to keep anchors updated like the Rumney Climbers Association. In those areas it’s best to check with local climbers on accepted practices, but hopefully these areas can be updated to better support lowering as an option.

Rappelling Instead

All this said there are times where rappelling will be a better choice. The American Alpine Club created this video which covers the steps to rig a rappel from a sport anchor instead.

Summary

Rigging to lower from a sport climb is definitely faster and arguably safer than setting up a rappel. I hope this post has you thinking critically about your process while climbing and that it was clean and concise. At the end of the day double and triple check what ever system you are using especially during transitions and climb on!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. Practice new skills at ground level and under the guidance of a qualified guide, instructor, or mentor. Climb at your own risk. Affiliate links above help support this blog.

Tech Tip- Tying a Clove Hitch on to the Carabiner (and $200 Gift Certificate Giveaway!)

David Lottmann Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , , , ,

I originally posted this tech tip back in 2017 but with any climbing skill a bit of repetition can’t hurt. Here’s the original YouTube video and a new one I posted this morning.

CONTEST- $200 Gift Card to IME, North Conway NH

rock climbing tech tips

I’m giving away a $200 gift certificate to International Mountain Equipment in North Conway, NH to a randomly selected YouTube subscriber on November 30th, 2021! This gift certificate can be used on anything in their retail shop like a new climbing rope, ice axes, crampons, clothing, etc, or on a climbing lesson or avalanche course with the International Mountain Climbing School! No purchase necessary, just hit that subscribe button on my YouTube channel to be sure you will be entered in the drawing!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Tech Tip: Girth Hitch Master Point Anchor System

David Lottmann Climbing Education, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips , , , ,
Girth Hitch Master Point Anchor System

I’ve been using the Girth Hitch Master Point (GHMP) Anchor System for a little over a year now having learned it from the great educational social media feeds of Dale Remsberg and Cody Bradford. Recent testing on the method was conducted by Derek DeBruin and John Sohl the Petzl facility in Salt Lake City and they published these results.

TL:DR Version:

“The girth hitch is a viable solution for the master point for anchor rigging, provided that;

1) Approximately 5cm of slip is within the climbing party’s risk tolerance

2) The girth hitch is cinched snugly by hand and body weight prior to use. This applies to a variety of rigging materials, such as HMPE or nylon slings or cord, as well as material conditions, whether new or used, dry or wet.” – Derek DeBruin

Best Uses:

There’s quite a few places this system could be well applied. It is primarily a solution for multi-pitch climbing. This isn’t a great option for constructing anchors that will be used for top-rope climbing. On a multi-pitch route with bolted belay stations I might even consider keeping a sling rigged with this system (much like how I keep a pre-tied mini-quad on my harness). Even if the bolts at the next station are not exactly the same distance apart you only need to loosen the hitch a bit to properly adjust it. On a multi-pitch route with traditional gear anchors a double-length Dyneema sling is a light & fast option for rigging this system. Multi-pitch ice climbing is where I see perhaps the greatest benefit as rigging this with gloves on will often be achievable with just an alpine-draw and good ice.

Here’s a video I created showing the method along with some suggestions, namely utilizing a full strength closed rappel ring as a master point instead of a locking carabiner, which adds security and saves a locking carabiner for other uses.

Summary

Because this is a material efficient and proven redundant glove friendly system I plan on keeping it in my growing “tool kit” of options. I still carry one mini-quad with me when I prefer independent master points (more comfortable for a party of three) and use it often as a glove friendly redundant rappel extension. The advantages over tying a more traditional old school pre-equalized cordelette anchor are great enough that I see less and less reason for ever taking my cordelette off the back of my harness. I still carry it for self-rescue purposes but newer anchor methods like the GHMP and mini-quad seem to solve most anchor problems more effectively. I’m stopping by REI today to pick up one a SMC Rigging Ring which is almost half the weight of the stainless steel one I used in the video. You should consider adding this to your tool kit!

Product Giveaways!

I’m running two giveaways at the moment. You can enter to win a SOL Emergency Bivvy Sack before the end of the month in the raffle at the bottom of this review of SOL survival products! You can also enter to win a camming device of your choice* by competing in an anchor building contest that ends at the end of October… rules for that contest are at this Instagram post.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous, you could die following any advice from this post. Seek qualified instruction and mentorship. Affiliate links above support the content created at Northeast Alpine Start.

*cam will be selected by the winner from any in-stock cam at International Mountain Equipment in North Conway, NH. Free shipping within the US.

Gear Review- Black Diamond Fuel Approach Shoes

David Lottmann Climbing Gear Reviews, Footwear Reviews, Gear Reviews, Rock Climbing , , ,
Black Diamond Fuel Approach Shoes Review

Black Diamond has released their most advanced approach shoes yet this past Spring, the Black Diamond Fuel Approach Shoes. I’ve been testing a pair for the last few weeks and am ready to share my take on their comfort and performance. First lets look at the manufacturer claims and specifications.

Manufacturer Description

Engineered for days when the word “approach” actually involves full-on climbing, the Fuel is our most technical performance shoe. The Fuel’s upper combines breathable EnduroKnit, a durable stretch woven lateral panel, and welded TPU film overlays for maximum durability and precision fit. The internally overlapping tongue allows for fewer seams and a sleek comfortable fit with minimal bulk, while the lace-to-toe construction features webbing and scalloped eyelets for variable, adjustable fit and tensioning to suit different conditions. A climbing-specific forefoot construction allows for exceptional edge control and our BlackLabel Mountain rubber is ultra-sticky for superior grip on rock. Finally, a tag-loop on the heel and tongue gives you the option to clip the Fuels to your harness once you rope up.

  • Capable of easy 5th class climbing with confidence and comfort.
  • Upper construction of Black Diamond developed knit and woven textiles with welded TPU film overlays for adaptable fit and maximum durability
  • Low profile molded collar padding and lining
  • Protected lateral laces and smooth upper construction
  • Overlap tongue means fewer internal seams for precision fit
  • Lace to toe with webbing and scalloped eyelets for adjustable fit and tension depending on conditions Functional climbing forefoot construction for edging control and durability
  • Tuned dual density EVA midsole with stiffness and comfort
  • Black Diamond BlackLabel Mountain is a high performance sticky rubber
  • Rubber toe protection
  • Multiple webbing loops for tagging options

Tech Specs

  • MaterialsPolyester Enduro Knit, EVA Midsole, BD BlackLabel-Mountain Rubber
  • Size RangeM’s US 6-14 1/2 sizes
  • WeightEACH: 312 g (11 oz)
Black Diamond Fuel Approach Shoes Review

My opinions…

Out of the box the first thing I noticed was the lightweight feel. My US Size 9 pair weighs 1 pound 5 ounces (600 grams) which is slightly lighter than the manufacturer claimed weight an about an ounce heavier than my LaSportiva TX 2’s. A fair comparison in terms of weight and support would be closer made to the LaSportiva TX Guide approach shoes.

The second most notable feature was the welded “TPU film overlays” especially on the upper around the heel. I’ve seen this technology used in high end waterproof jackets and using it on an approach shoe not only gives the shoe a very high tech look but also inspires confidence in the long term durability of the shoe.

Fit/Comfort

I went with a US Men’s size 9, EUR 42, and the fit was pretty spot on for my medium width regular arch foot. I probably could have sized down a half size but with a full length lacing system I was able to snug these up sufficiently for low 5th class climbing. I did notice some heel lift while wearing them around the house on Day one of testing but interestingly when hiking around Rumney NH I didn’t notice the heel lift. The heel cup could definitely be a little deeper. The wrap style tongue and padding was quite comfortable while testing with and without socks… something to consider in hot weather these actually felt pretty comfortable without socks. The EVA midsole provided plenty of under foot support and had noticeably more cushioning in the heel than other approach shoes in this category.

Performance

In class 2, 3, and 4 terrain these perform well as approach shoes. They definitely had adequate grip and comfort over 4-5 mile trips in New Hampshire’s rugged White Mountains. To test them in fifth class terrain I climbed a half dozen routes at Rumney, NH ranging from 5.3 to 5.7. They felt more secure while edging vs. smearing which I think may be in part to the rubber used in the outsole. The “BlackLabel Mountain rubber” feels a little stiffer than the compounds used in competing brands which makes these feel like the soles will have longevity with a small reduction in the coefficient of friction. As I’ve found with most approach shoes I’ve tested the friction can improve as the soles break in a bit. I usually have maximum confidence in my smear-ability once the “dots” on the soles have been worn down and the bottom of the approach shoe looks more like the bottom of a climbing shoe. Perhaps after a full season of use I’ll feel these smear a bit better.

Durability

It’s not easy to speak to much on durability when my testing window is only a few weeks long. That said a close look at the construction of these inspires confidence you will not wear through a pair of these in a couple seasons. They would certainly outlast some similar models with the futuristic welded seams and significant toe rand.

Black Diamond Fuel Approach Shoes Review

Summary

The Black Diamond Fuel Approach Shoes are a welcome addition to the growing list of approach shoes. The price and features puts them up against shoes like the LaSportiva TX Guide approach shoes and they certainly can compete. A slightly deeper heel cup would be nice and a softening and smoothing of the outsole over time will likely increase the security while heading up slabby terrain. I also think it is great that Black Diamond is producing a women’s version since options for women’s approach shoes haven’t always been there. If you are in need of some new approach shoes this is a model to consider, especially if you’ve worn Black Diamond climbing shoes before and know their sizing fits your feet!

Black Diamond Fuel Approach Shoes Review
Black Diamond Fuel Approach Shoes Review

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created on this blog. Thank you.

Tech Tip- Snap Bowline with Yosemite Finish

David Lottmann hiking, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips, Wilderness Survival , , ,

The bowline is an excellent knot for securing your climbing rope around an object, most commonly a tree. You might be securing the bottom of a stacked rope while top-roping to “close the system” while also creating a handy ground anchor if needed, or fixing a rope for a single strand rappel while scrubbing your next project. In this short video I demonstrate the traditional “scouts” way of tying it as well as the alternative “snap” method (I refer to this also as the “handshake” method). I also demonstrate an alternative way of finishing the knot with a Yosemite finish. If you like this type of content please subscribe to the YouTube Channel and I’ll keep producing videos like this throughout the summer!

See you in the mountains!

Northeast Alpine Start