Comparing Petzl Neox and Edelrid Pinch for Climbing

October 7, 2024 David Lottmann Climbing Education, Climbing Gear Reviews, Deals on gear!, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips adventure, assisted braking devices, belay devices, climbing, edelrid, edelrid pinch, ice climbing, mountaineering, petzl, petzl neox, rock climbing, travel

The Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch are the two biggest additions to the growing market of Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs). Many of you might be wondering which device is the right one for you.

In this video, I will show the key differences between each device. This will help you make an informed decision on which device is best for you. This is not an in-depth review of either device. More in-depth reviews of each device will be linked below in the description as they are published. Below the video is a transcript with greater detail than what I had time to convey in the video. Feel free to skip to any section you would like more information on!

COST

To start our comparison let’s look at retail cost. The manufacturer suggested retail price of the Petzl Neox is $149.95 USD ($€29 Euros) and the Edelrid Pinch is $119.95 USD (€99.95). The difference of $30 USD is not insignificant. The Petzl Neox must be paired with a locking carabiner to function. In contrast, the Edelrid Pinch can be used without a locking carabiner. For comparison the recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner is $18.95 USD.

WEIGHT

Next let’s look at the difference in weight. The Petzl Neox claimed weight is 235 grams. The Edelrid Pinch claimed weight is 234 grams. That’s only 1 gram difference so even Steven right? Well not quite. You see the Edelrid Pinch is designed to be usable without a locking carabiner. It has a secure locking attachment point. You can connect it to any belay loop or master point that is a minimum of 10mm in width. I’ve seen some guides on social media adding a locking carabiner as a sort of “double” lock on the setup. While there isn’t really anything wrong with being “extra” safe, I haven’t seen any reason for concern. This is true when the device is installed properly without using an extra locking carabiner. So, for comparison reasons, the Edelrid Pinch is one locking carabiner lighter. This makes it lighter than a usable Petzl Neox. The recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner weighs 46 grams for comparison.

SIZE

Size wise they are pretty similar. The Petzl Neox is about 4 ¼ inches (10.76 cm) long and 2 ½ inches (6.35 cm) wide and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The Edelrid Pinch is 5 ½ inches (14 cm) long and 2 ¾ inches (7 cm) and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The difference in dimensions is quite minimal. However, you could factor in the additional size of a locking carabiner for the Petzl Neox to function. This may not matter much from a pack-ability standpoint. We will discuss later how having the Edelrid Pinch connected directly to your harness belay loop might be more efficient. It could also be attached to the anchor master point during belays for added efficiency.

ROPE SIZE

The Petzl Neox is approved to be used with single rated climbing ropes between 8.5 and 11 millimeters. The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used with single rated dynamic ropes between 8.5 and 10.5 millimeters and static ropes between 10 to 10.5 millimeters. I haven’t climbed on a single rated rope thicker than 10.5 millimeters in a couple of decades so I don’t think this difference is very notable. It is interesting that the usable threshold for static rope is mentioned to be smaller. I’m not sure exactly why that is. This answer probably is not very relevant to most potential users. Most static ropes likely fall within the 10 to 10.5 millimeter range.

LEAD BELAY FUNCTION

There are some pretty noticeable differences when belaying a leader with the Edelrid Pinch versus the Petzl Neox.

First, the real stand out feature of the Petzl Neox is the smoothness of adding slack quickly to the system. The intuitiveness is also exceptional. The spinning wheel inside the housing simplifies keeping up with a quickly moving climber. This is true even when they make a big reach clip. With the Petzl Neox, it is less likely that a belayer will accidentally “short rope” a lead climber. It is also less likely that the device will unintentionally lock up while trying to add slack to the system.

Second, there is no need for a special hand position when feeding slack with the Petzl Neox. This means the device is easily mastered by anyone who can belay well with a standard tube style belay device.

Lead belaying with the Edelrid Pinch feels much more similar to belaying with a Petzl GriGri. Many seasoned climbers are quite familiar with this. The cam can engage when quickly paying out slack. Make sure to use care. The technical details and instructions illustrate a “quick slack” grip method. An advantage of the Edelrid Pinch is its versatility. You can perform the quick slack method whether you are right handed or left handed. This method takes a little practice to do well but isn’t hard to master with some time. The Petzl Neox essentially has a slightly faster learning curve in the hands of a new belayer.

Finally, one notable difference here is the Edelrid Pinch can be connected directly to your belay loop. You do not need a locking carabiner. This keeps the device about 4 inches (10 cm) to your body. This means you can pay out a little more rope with each arm motion. I need to spend more time belaying lead climbers with both of these devices. This will help me decide if this difference is truly noteworthy.

DIRECT ANCHOR BELAY FUNCTION

Both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch can belay a second directly off an anchor. This applies in either a single pitch or multi-pitch setting. There are some differences between the two devices to discuss here.

First, taking slack in with the Petzl Neox is extremely easy thanks to the spinning wheel in the housing. When using a hand on both the load and belay line, the rope pulls through the device like a high efficiency pulley. There is very little noticeable friction. This is a blessing for anyone with a bit of elbow tendinitis. Also with the Petzl Neox rope diameter really doesn’t change the amount of effort pulling slack through the device requires.

The Edelrid Pinch feels quite similar in effort to pulling slack with a Petzl GriGri. Thinner ropes will pull easier than thicker ropes.

They cam almost instantly when presented with a load. This is true, for example, when a seconding climber falls. A brake hand must be properly on the rope to provide some resistance on the other side of the device. There have been some dramatic social media videos shared that how the Petzl Neox will not cam for quite some time in the event of a missing brake hand.

Perhaps the Edelrid Pinch will make some climbers feel a little more secure. It does seem to cam more quickly when a brake hand is absent. However, both devices clearly state in their instructions that a brake hand MUST be present. It must be in the correct position to provide resistance on the brake strand side of the device. Neither of these devices are considered “hands free” in any mode of use!

FIXED POINT BELAY OF LEAD CLIMBER!

The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used in a Fixed Point Belay orientation. This technique of belaying a leader offers advantages in certain situations. It is the first device I know of that the manufacturer actually approves for this use. I will likely experiment more with this option this winter while testing the Edelrid Pinch ice climbing.

LOWERING DIRECTLY FROM ANCHOR

Both devices are capable of lowering smoothly directly from the anchor. Likely the biggest difference here is the Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” feature. This feature is very similar to what Petzl introduced when they released the Petzl GriGri+. By design, if the release lever is pulled too far when lowering, the cam will re-engage. This can happen when lowering from top-rope or directly from the anchor. To continue lowering, the user needs to release the handle back to the start position. Then, pull the handle back down to resume the lower. Alternatively, pull the handle harder to get past the “anti-panic” zone. The latter option is considered “advanced”.

While this “anti-panic” feature is probably good for less experience belayer it might be off-putting to more advanced users. Well Edelrid probably thought of that. They included a small screw. It can be inserted in the device to disable the anti-panic feature. I haven’t disabled the feature yet. I want a little more hands-on experience. This will help me better compare it to the anti-panic feature of the Petzl GriGri+ for a future video.

With either device follow the instructions and redirect your brake strand for a smooth and secure lower.

IMPROVISED HAULING FUNCTION

Both devices function almost identical in a hauling set up. As I mentioned in my detailed video on the Petzl Neox, I initially thought the spinning wheel might add efficiency. I was referring to its use in an improvised haul. However, I later realized the wheel is locked when the device is under tension. Therefore, there is no advantage of hauling with a Petzl Neox over a Petzl GriGri or the Edelrid Pinch. They both function well as progress captures and reduce friction efficiency in the hauling system at about the same level. One last minute detail is the Edelrid Pinch can be attached directly to the anchor without a locking carabiner. This saves you about 4 inches (10 cm) of more efficiency. You have fewer resets in your improvised hauling system.

SINGLE STRAND RAPPELLING (ABSEILING) FUNCTION

Both devices can be used for a single strand rappel. The big difference between the two is similar to the difference mentioned above in the lowering section. The Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” function which is probably most noticeable during a rappel. If you plan to do a lot of rappelling on a single strand, you might want to disable the anti-panic feature. Consider doing this at some point with the Edelrid Pinch. I recommend keeping it engaged for a few rappels first. This will allow you to see which you would prefer more.

ROPE ASCENSION

There is a notable difference in the use of these two devices when ascending a fixed rope. For the most part the Edelrid Pinch feels like a Petzl GriGri as a progress capture during rope ascension. The Petzl Neox makes it noticeably easier to pull rope through the device while standing in your leg loop. This is because the device is not loaded, unlike a haul system, and the wheel spins during that action. On a long rope climb, you will save a little energy with the Petzl Neox. However, exactly how much energy you save is debatable.

SUMMARY

Now for the hard part… which device is best for you? The crowning achievement of the Petzl Neox is the device’s ability to efficiently pay out slack. It can also take in slack as if the rope is just traveling through a pulley. The Petzl Neox is extremely beginner friendly requiring no special hand techniques other than quality PBUS belay technique.

The Edelrid Pinch is kind of breaking the mold here being the first Assisted Braking Device that can attach to the anchor point autonomously. This is a very intriguing design choice. It can be backed up easily with a separate locking carabiner if that is desired. Its function is quite similar to the long-time standard Petzl GriGri. It has an anti-panic feature that the user can decide to disable. It also has a really competitive suggested retail price when compared to any other device in this category.

You are probably already considering these two devices. They are likely options if you are in the market for a new Assisted Braking Device. I hope this comparison video has been informative. It has shown you some of the differences, some which are significant and some which are subtle. If you enjoyed this video, please like, share, and subscribe. Your support helps me cover new climbing gear, clothing, and equipment. It will help you get out into the mountains for some adventure!

Questions?

Let me know in the comments below and I will do my best to respond in a timely manner!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

A media sample of both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch were provided to the author at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!

Which Belay Device For Which Use?

July 29, 2019July 31, 2019 David Lottmann Climbing Gear Reviews, Gear Reviews, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips belay devices, climbing gear, Gear Reviews, ice climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing, trad climbing

What belay device should I use?

“What belay device is that?” was the question that popped up from my friend @sammyspindel on a short Instagram story clip of my anchor while belaying a client up the last pitch of Upper Refuse on Cathedral Ledge a few days ago. The question generated some great back and forth conversation and ultimately provided the motivation for this post, so thank you for the question Sammy!

What belay device I use is largely determined on what type of climbing I am doing. In this post I’m going to explain the advantages, disadvantages, and helpful strategies of some of the most popular options out there. I will attempt to break it down based on type and style of climbing (gym, sport, trad, alpine, ice, top-rope, multi-pitch, party of 2, party of 3). My hope is you’re able to make some informed choices over what belay device(s) you decide to use. I’ll try to work through these options from simplest to most complex.

Here we go…

The Munter Hitch

Every climber should learn how to use a Munter Hitch. This incredible hitch has served climbers well for over a hundred years. This skill can save the day when your partner drops their shiny new flavor of the day belay device off the top of the 3rd pitch of a 7 pitch climb or when your ropes are two icy from a dripping ice pillar in below freezing temps and you can’t get them bent through your tube-style device. All you need is a pear shaped locking carabiner. I prefer the Petzl Attache or Petzl William Locking Screwgate. Avoid auto-locking carabiners to facilitate tying the hitch onto the carabiner, something I demonstrate in this first video. The second video shows how this can be converted into an auto-locking Munter!

Practice this skill at home. Practice while watching the news. Learn to tie it with your eyes closed. Learn to tie it with one hand. Learn to tie it onto the belay carabiner on the anchor with one hand. Advanced users/aspiring guides: Learn to tie it on to a carabiner so it is already in the “belay” orientation. Learn to it on a carabiner so it is already in the “lower” orientation. Then learn to tie it in both those orientations when the carabiner is on your belay loop (I still struggle with mastering this last step as looking down at the carabiner turns my head upside down).

Some key points about the Munter Hitch…. IT DOES NOT “TWIST” THE ROPE! Improper use of the hitch will introduce serious “twists” and kinks into your rope. The solution? Always keep the brake strand parallel with the load strand. In that orientation you can watch the way the rope moves through the hitch without creating twists. If you hold the brake strand anywhere but parallel you will introduce twists. This is quite un-intuitive when using this hitch to rappel as our muscle memory wants us to pull back or down with the brake hand while rappelling. The proper hand position (and maximum braking power) is obtained by holding the brake strand straight up and parallel with the loaded rope. I know, crazy right? Moving on…

Standard Tube-Style Belay Devices

Almost every climber everywhere has owned and used a classic “tube-style” belay device. It’s as standard as needing a pair of climbing shoes and a chalk bag. There are more options in this category then ever before. While there are subtle differences in weight and design they all function relatively the same. While a summer camp or outdoor club might opt for the cheapest option I’d suggest for the majority of recreational climbers to go for one of the most popular models in use that includes a “higher friction” side to assist with braking and rappelling. The two models I see the most of are the Black Diamond ATC-XP and the Petzl Verso.

Some notes on this style device. I no longer carry one opting instead for the more versatile models that can be used in “plaquette” mode (more on that in a minute). That said for top-rope and lead, single pitch, gym, sport, and trad climbing there is nothing inherently “wrong” about choosing one of these simple devices.

Tube Style Devices with “Plaquette” Mode

For little additional cost and weight you can carry a tube style belay device that can also serve in “plaquette” mode. This is ideal for lead climbers who wish to belay their partner directly off the anchor after leading a pitch. This European style of belaying has become much more prevalent in American climbing in the last few decades for good reason. At its core it is more comfortable for the belayer and much simpler should the second climber need assistance to pass a crux. The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes.

Single Strand Brake Assisting Devices

This category covers devices like the Petzl GriGri, Petzl GriGri+, Black Diamond Pilot, and the new to the scene Wild Country Revo. While noticeably heavier (and pricier, except for the BD Pilot) than simpler tube style device than these devices have more applications then I think most people realize. Devices like the Petzl GriGri are just at home in the climbing gym as they are on large sandstone big walls (especially given the additional durability of the GriGri+). Some climbers may avoid using one of these devices due to needing to carry a second belay device for rappelling. Well, two things… first you can rappel with these (blocked-rappel options), but more importantly and something I will get into towards the end, what’s wrong with carrying two devices? It opens up a lot of options and solutions to potential climbing issues!

Improved Belay Check — Petzl Grigri+ – photo by Alexandra Roberts

You can see my full review of the Petzl Grigri+ HERE!

You can see my full review of the Black Diamond ATC Pilot HERE!

Double Strand Brake Assisting Devices

This covers some more niche options like the Edelrid Mega Jul, Mega Jul Sport, and Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device. These have the added benefit of brake assistance when lead belaying but can still allow for smooth double rope rappels. These are not as ideal for direct belaying off a top anchor like in a multi-pitch setting so I do reach for this option very often preferring my DMM Pivot or the standard Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4.

Lowest Friction Plates

Now we get to the device that sparked this whole post. My Kong Gi-Gi. This device’s most notable quality is that when used in plaquette mode it takes the least amount of force to belay two single rated ropes at the same time. I’ve found no device that comes close to the ease of belaying two single ropes when climbing with two seconds and using “parallel” technique, a common guiding tactic to belay two seconds at the same time.

Kong Gi-Gi Belay Device

While belaying directly off the anchor shouldn’t seem tiring I’ve known many guides who developed elbow tendinitis from the repetition of pulling two ropes through plaquettes up thousands of feet of moderate climbing over a decade or so of guiding. It can serve as a rappel device if needed, though that requires an extra locking carabiner and is a relatively low-friction rappel device (third hand back-up strongly recommended).

So what should you carry?

I guess it makes sense to break this down by end-use… there are so many tools available to us these days but here’s my take on optimizing your belay device load out:

Gym/Top-Rope Only

If you’re really not sure you even like climbing but want your own belay device you can keep it simple an pick up a simple tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC-XP or Petzl Verso. I think the higher friction side is worth the extra cost. If you are addicted to climbing you might as well invest in a single strand brake-assisting device like the Black Diamond Pilot, Petzl GriGri, or Wild Country Revo.

Outdoor Sport/Single Pitch Climbing

At this point I think owning two devices makes sense. The Black Diamond ATC XP or Petzl Verso plus a a single strand brake-assisting device like the Black Diamond Pilot, Petzl GriGri, or Wild Country Revo will make weekend trips to Rumney or your local sport crag quite enjoyable!

Multi-pitch Trad

If you’re going more than one pitch off the deck a plaquette device like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4 is an easy pick. I’ve started carrying my Petzl GriGri on multi-pitch trad routes for a multitude of reasons since it greatly simplifies rope ascension in a rescue scenario but also works great for hauling bags on big wall. “Lifer’s” with big wall aspirations should seriously consider the added durability of the Petzl GriGri+.

Multi-pitch Ice

Here I’d go with the standard plaquette device like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4 and the knowledge of the Munter Hitch mentioned at the beginning to help deal with icy ropes. I leave single strand brake-assisting devices home when ice climbing as they tend to not work as well on ice ropes and weight is a premium. If you climb on really skinny floss like 7.7mm twin ropes you should look at the new Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide!

Climbing in a party of 3 (Guiding-Style)

Parties of three typically climb in either “Caterpillar” or “Parallel” style. Basically “Caterpillar” is the leader climbs, then belays the first second, after the second arrives with the 2nd rope belays the 3rd climber. It’s slower but a better choice for harder routes and newer climbers as the other option “Parallel” means the leader takes both ropes and belays both seconds simultaneously. A lot of issues can crop up to make this a mini-epic. However for skilled leaders and guides this is often a method that can see a three person party move as fast as a two person party.

Combos

As I mentioned earlier carrying two belay devices can make sense in a lot of situations. These are the combos I find myself using most as a climbing guide:

Summary

At the end of the day there are an amazing array of belay devices to chose from. The above suggestions are just my personal experience with what has worked well for me. When I started this post I thought I would cover every device out there but there are just way to many options! Hopefully the suggestions and comments I’ve made help you pick a system that works for you! Let me know in the comments if I left out your favorite belay device or if you found any of this useful and…

See you in the mountains!