Gear Review- Mystery Ranch Scree Backpack

November 6, 2017 Backpack Reviews, Gear Reviews, Uncategorized

The Mystery Ranch Scree is a mid-sized rugged backpack capable of hauling heavier and awkward loads better than most packs this size and could easily find itself in the gear closets of photographers and craggers alike. I tested this pack over the course of 3 months while day hiking, sport climbing, trad-climbing, and alpine climbing and I’m ready to share my opinions on it.

Buy from Mystery Ranch Buy on Backcountry.com Buy on Moosejaw

Capacity/Weight

At 3.1 pounds this 32 liter (2000 cubic inches) pack is a little heavier than most of the packs in my quiver but that extra weight is attributed to a very robust suspension system that distributes heavy loads very comfortably and protects the back from feeling bulky camera gear or that #4 Black Diamond Camalot.

Comfort

This heavier suspension system, the “Load Carriage™”, is the cornerstone of Mystery Ranch packs and allows for total customization of the suspension system to fit anyone’s torso as if the pack was custom made. The demo model I tested fit my 17 inch torso perfectly out of the box so I did not need to make any adjustments but for those who do Mystery Ranch explains the process in this video (note different model in video but same process).

Storage/Access

Quite a bit of the design of the Mystery Ranch Scree is focused on storage and access to the gear you are hauling. The main compartment can be accessed like a traditional top-loader by unzipping the top pocket or by unzipping a centered vertical zipper that runs the length of the pack and allows for convenient panel loading access. The main advantage of having these two access options is when packing I can really stuff a lot of gear in by just using the top loading option. If I need something that I packed near the bottom of my pack the vertical zipper allows access without having to empty most the pack.

An internal hydration sleeve can hold a 100 ounce reservoir and a hydration port is well concealed behind the right shoulder strap. The top pocket has two zippered compartments, a large one with see through mesh and a smaller one at the very top of the lid. Two water-bottle pockets made from a stretchy nylon can hold 32 ounce Nalgene’s but do not have a draw-cord or compression strap to help secure them so care should be used when using. The padded waist belt has a zippered pocket on each side providing a convenient place to store some energy gels or lip balm. Two daisy chain down the back round out the storage options.

Durability

Mystery Ranch has a lot of experience building packs for military and fire fighting and you can tell they carry this bombproof type philosophy over to their expanding recreational lines. Made of 420 Denier Robic™ nylon fabric and waterproof YKK zippers with a double layered bottom you can expect a long life and many miles from this pack. After about 15 days of field use my demo model shows no signs of wear.

Summary

The Mystery Ranch Scree is a solid option for travelers hauling heavy gear in the mountains. The compression system allows it to cinch down to carry-on size for most airlines making it suitable for travel. While the suspension is a little too heavy for multi-pitch climbing this pack worked great hauling the whole trad rack for a day of single pitching at Cathedral Ledge and Sport Climbing at Rumney, NH. The impressive carrying capacity and unique access options would make this a solid choice for nature and adventure photographers as well as those who like compartmental organization. The only improvement I might suggest is the addition of a sternum strap whistle, a feature I like on all of my packs. If you are in need of a robust mid-sized pack for your mountain adventures take a look at this one, it might be a perfect addition to your pack quiver!

Buy from Mystery Ranch Buy on Backcountry.com Buy on Moosejaw

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: This pack was provided to the author for purpose of review. Affiliate links in this post help support creating content here at no cost to you.

Tech Tip- The Mini-Quad

November 2, 2017 Climbing Education, Rock Climbing, Tech Tips, Tech Tips, Uncategorized climbing anchors, climbing skills, rock climbing techniques

Originally introduced in the 2006 version of John Long’s Climbing Anchors book the “Quad” took a few years to start being adapted by both guides and recreational climbers alike. Now, ten years later, it has really started to gain widespread popularity for the simplified way it can create ERNEST* anchors, especially when building anchors on two solid pieces of protection (modern bolts, ice screws in solid ice). This past year I’ve been using a super light and rack-able version that I’ve been referring to as a “Mini-Quad”.

*ERNEST- Equalized, Redundant, No (limited) Extension, Timely

Building a Mini-Quad

To build a Mini-Quad start with a 120 cm Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner. These are often called “double length” slings as they are twice as long as your standard “shoulder length” sling. Double the runner and get the stitching positioned towards the end before tying the first of two over-hand knots.

The second overhand can be positioned about two inches from the other end of the doubled runner. When optimized the resulting Mini-Quad is about 16 inches long. Once you add two carabiners to it (I use Petzl S Ange Wire Gate Carabiners) your Mini-Quad is ready to be racked or deployed for multiple uses.

Benefits of Dynex for building a Quad

A 120 cm 10mm ultralight Dynex runner weighs 30% less than an nylon runner but more importantly it does not absorb water like nylon making it great for ice climbing and getting caught in the rain on a long alpine route. A nylon double length is also too bulky to get the required over-hand knots to form a use-able size of Mini- Quad. This Dynex runner is also 1/4 of the weight of an 18 foot 6mm cordelette and racks like a quick-draw.

Mini-Quad for climbing — Weighs less than a nylon quickdraw with non-wire gates

Limitation of using Dynex for building a Quad

It should be noted that due to the slippery nature of Dynex the overhand knots used in the construction of the Mini-Quad will tighten significantly over a few days of use. They can become difficult to impossible to untie. I’ve decided to leave these “built” for the entirely of the material life span. For those concerned over the potential reduction in material strength due to the overhand knot I offer the following justification. Conservative testing indicates an overhand can reduce the material strength up to 40%. These runners are tested to 22 Kn, or about 5000 pounds. The most conservative estimates leave 3000 pounds of strength in the material. Given the redundancy of the Quad construction I find this a non-issue. As with all knots and material used in climbing one should inspect them at every use for damage, excessive abrasion, etc.

Uses of the Mini-Quad

This is one versatile tool and I carry two on my harness. The obvious use is in anchor construction. When arriving at a belay station with two modern bolts it takes less than 10 seconds to construct an ERNEST anchor with the Mini-Quad. For sport climbing this speed and simplicity should encourage climbers to choose this method over the popular practice of just using two quickdraws, especially if your group will be top-roping the route for awhile.

In building traditional anchors I still regularly deploy the Mini-Quad. Most of us build gear anchors from 3-4 pieces of protection. The most common method we see people deploy is the classic cordelette-method. While this creates an solid ERNEST anchor it’s downside is when considering the “T” in ERNEST… Timely. The cordelette takes quite a bit of time to deploy and more time to break down and rack when the second is on belay from above. It also requires a lot of material when we can often achieve an ERNEST anchor with little more than a Mini-Quad and perhaps one 2 foot runner. The key here is trying to arrange 2 or more of the pieces of our anchor so they can “be treated” as one. Here are some examples to illustrate this concept.

This anchor has two solid pitons and I added a Black Diamond .3 X4 Camalot. This placement could be moved higher in the crack until I could clip it to the right “leg” of the Mini-Quad with its own carabiner. This creates a solid 3-piece ERNEST anchor with very little material and is super fast to build and de-construct.

In this example I’ve placed a bomber 1.5 (brown) CAMP USA Tricam in a passive placement. Just below it is a Black Diamond .4 C4 Camalot Ultralight. The proximity of these two pieces allowed me to connect the Tricam into the Dynex sewn runner on the .4 cam therefore reducing these two pieces of gear “to one” and the other leg of the Mini-Quad goes to the .5 Black Diamond C4 Camalot.

Before I move on to other uses of the Mini-Quad I feel the need for a disclaimer here. It’s well known that when someone posts pictures of what they feel are solid anchors they open themselves up to scrutiny. I’ll be happy to discuss these more in the comments below as long as the discussion is civil.

Other uses of the Mini-Quad

The Mini-Quad is an excellent extension for your rappel device should you choose to extend (common practice these days). Because I have two dedicated carabiners for my Mini-Quads the easiest way to use it in this configuration is to attach it to your belay loop with these two carabiners, gates reversed and opposed, then install your rappel device on the far end. This is a very strong redundant connection that does not require you to fish webbing through the tie in point of your harness (not always easy while ice climbing with cold hands). Not looping or girth-hitching a sling through your harness will also reduce wear over time. For the rappel device connection I highly prefer the Black Diamond Magnetron Gridlock, which uses one of the best designs for an “auto-locking” carabiner.

I also occasionally use a Mini-Quad as a regular runner while leading a wandering pitch. It doesn’t weigh much more than an alpine draw and functions as a very redundant 15 inch runner.

Video

Summary

With proper application the Mini-Quad has the potential to streamline your anchor building in all facets of climbing. Sport climbers should embrace the added redundancy and better equalization than the dual quickdraw method so embraced today. Traditional climbers will notice an increase in speed for both construction and de-construction of traditional anchors especially on longer routes. Ice climbers will continue to embrace the benefits of the Quad but perhaps now with a lighter more rack-able solution. Guides and trip leaders who often have 3 people in a team will continue to utilize this option and perhaps carry less heavy/bulky cordelette material. If you’ve been using the Quad already check out this “Mini-Quad” version… I think you’ll like it!

Comment and Share!

If you liked this content please let me know by leaving a comment below and/or sharing this post within your climbing circles! Thanks for reading!

References

Various climbing books all listed here.

Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous. You can be seriously injured or die. There is no substitute for personal instruction. Seek qualified instruction before attempting anything expressed above. There are no warranties expressed or implied that this post contains accurate information. You are solely responsible for your safety in the mountains.

Gear Review- Montem Diadema 18L Backpack (and contest)

October 30, 2017 Backpack Reviews, Gear Reviews climbing gear, Climbing Gear Reviews, climbing pack reviews, climbing packs

This simple yet well designed backpack easily crosses over from an everyday gym bag to a ultra-light multi-pitch rock climbing pack. I received a media sample to demo this past summer and ended up quite impressed with a pack in this easily affordable price range. Let’s take a close look at this model and see if it would be a good addition to your pack fleet!

Montem Diadema 18L Backpack Review — Hard to believe this pack only weighs 4 ounces! The author at the top of Whitehorse Ledge, White Mountains, New Hampshire

Buy on Amazon

Capacity/Weight

At 18 liter (1,100 cubic inches) this pack is 2 liters larger than the popular Black Diamond Bullet and the same volume of the Petzl Bug (my review). The Diadema is a few inches longer than all three of those models which allows internal packing of many styles of trekking poles like Montem’s own award winning line of ultra-light trekking poles. Where this model really stands out in the field of “bullet” packs is in its weight. The Montem Diadema 18L only weighs 4 ounces! This is 14 ounces less than both the Black Diamond Bullet and the Petzl Bug and 7 ounces less than the Mountain Tools Slipstream that I reviewed here. This weight combined with being able to compress into the size of a grapefruit makes this a great choice for stuffing into a larger multi-day backpack during expeditions or in luggage for international travel.

Durability

Montem uses a high denier supple waterproof ripstop nylon in the Diadema’s construction. The material feels very soft in hand which helps the pack compress when storing inside a larger pack. Being made of a waterproof fabric is a nice boon with a pack so moderately priced however the seams are not taped or sealed in anyway so I would not consider the pack to be completely waterproof, but highly water-resistent. After a couple weeks of cragging, trips to the gym, and 20+ pitches of alpine climbing the pack has not incurred any noticeable wear or damage. I would assume that over a few years of hard use packs made with heavier fabrics might outlive the Diadema but some sacrifices could probably be made when choosing a pack that only weighs 4 ounces!

Comfort

This is where we have a bit of a double edged sword. The contoured mesh shoulder straps are super breathable and distribute the weight well. A height adjustable sternum strap helps keep the load centered and thin waist belt secures the pack to the body for better balance while rock hopping and climbing. The actual “comfort” level of the pack varies with how, and what, is packed inside. There is no foam back panel or padding so if you pack your #2 Black Diamond Camalot right up against your back you are going to feel its edge digging into your pack on the approach. The solution here is to pack wisely. I stuff my extra layer, a light puffy jacket, in first and flatten it out along the back to serve as padding before stuffing my hard wear into the pack. With a little bit of thought you can certainly carry a full pack, first aid kit, puffy, headlamp, etc. and everything should carry well over a long approach. Once you’ve racked up and started climbing you will quickly forget that you are even wearing this pack!

Features

Rounding out the features of this pack the author appreciated the single external zippered pocket that easily fit my snacks and lunch or my first aid kit, headlamp, and other “essentials”. The internal hydration sleeve can hold bladders from 1.5 – 3 liters in comfort and a hydration port allows the hydration tube to exit easily. The minimalist drawcord closing system obviously saves a lot of weight and bulk over zippered closing systems and the inclusion of a whistle on the sternum buckle always gets a “tip of the hat” from me!

Summary

This relatively new entry into the field of steam-lined “bullet” packs has a lot going for it. The most impressive features are its insane lightweight and packability. The inclusion of waterproof fabrics and adjustable carry system make it more than a simple gym/tote bag. With careful packing it is excellent for approaches and feels non-existent when technically climbing with your hard-wear out and on your harness. The style and design also lend it well to less extreme uses like travel and a gym/yoga pack. If it sound like a good addition to your gear room check it out at the link below!

Buy on Amazon

Contest

Long time readers (and my wife) know I need a steady supply of the best foot deodorizer on the planet, Friendly Foot. The folks at Friendly Foot have re-stocked my supply and I’ll be raffling up a bottle of this on most of my gear reviews this Fall. You can earn multiple entries and discover how well this stuff works by clicking the Rafflecopter link below! Good luck!

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Montem Diadema 18L Review — Friendly Foot 6 oz Bottle, the best damn foot/shoe deodorizer ever made!

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See you in the mountains!

Northeast Alpine Start

This product was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links help support the content created on this blog at no additional cost to you.

Winter Gear Prep Part 1- The Essentials (2017)

October 23, 2017 Gear Reviews hiking gear, mountaineering gear, winter climbing, winter climbing gear, winter hiking, winter hiking gear

It’s that time of year again! The leaves are falling and it’s time to start planning for all the snowy and icy adventures that await! Thanks to reader Paul for reminding me I never finished this multi-part gear prep series from last Fall! I’ve gone through and edited Part 1 to reflect what is actually in my pack this season. I will update Part 2 this week and finish Part 3 & 4 in the next two weeks!

Winter Gear Prep — What’s in your pack? photo by Brent Doscher

(Originally posted October 2016, now updated October 2017)

Every year around this time I start getting excited about the arrival of my favorite season, Winter! To help fuel the stoke I go through my gear closet and take stock. What’s worn out and what needs replacing? What’s good to go for another icy season? I thought it might be helpful to provide a gear checklist with recommendations on what I use in all categories. In this first segment I’ll cover “The Essentials” a personally modified list of the classic “Ten Essentials“.

The Essentials

Maps– I use the free online mapping software CalTopo for all my mapping and trip planning needs. This powerful software has so much potential every outdoor adventurer should familiarize themselves with this tool! If you’d like to take a course that covers survival navigation and these advanced navigation skills go here!

Compass– I love my Suunto MC-2 compass which I reviewed in full detail here.

Buy on Backcountry Buy from EMS Buy on Amazon

If you’re looking for a smaller more affordable compass I also highly endorse the Suunto A-10 Compass.

Buy on Backcountry Buy at REI Buy from EMS Buy on Amazon

Headlamp– I recently upgraded my headlamps and currently carry the Petzl Zipka 2 and the Petzl Actik. You really can’t go wrong with a Petzl headlamp.

Buy the Petzl Zipka 2 on Backcountry, Amazon, REI

Buy the Petzl Actik on Backcountry, Amazon, EMS, REI

Batteries– I put fresh lithium batteries in my headlamps every Fall. Days are shorter and I am much more likely to need a headlamp. Lithium easily out performs alkaline in cold weather so the Energizer AA’s and AAA’s are always on hand. The best deal I can find on these batteries is on Amazon which is linked here.

First Aid Kit– I start with the Adventure Medical Kit .7 then modify it a little. I add more gloves (acquired from visits to the hospital) and a bottle of iodine tablets (for emergency water treatment and wound irrigation), and a small refillable bottle of Advil.

Knife– Colonial makes dozens of great models like this one.

Bivy Sack– I carry a AMK Heatsheets Emergency Bivy on every single outing. It only weighs a few ounces and is worthwhile the extra insurance!

Handwarmers– I always carry 6-8 hand warmers in my winter pack. Pro-tip: If you need to use them… place them under your glove on your wrist, right where that artery is. Much more effective than placing it in the palm of your hand which reduces grip on ice axes/ski poles. Usually the glove can hold it in place though sometimes I’ll use a little athletic tape.

A “Buff“– A very versatile clothing accessory! I have a few so I can wash them occasionally and always have one ready to go.

Glove Liners– I usually need to purchase a couple pairs of these because I do wear them out within a year or two. Totally worth the cheap price though!

Dermatone Sunblock– I always have a tin of this stuff with me in the winter.

Neoprene Face Mask– I like this simple style. It works well in combination with the Buff and my hat/hood. Bigger “fancier” ones make it difficult not to over heat. Pro-tip, if you have fogging issues when used with your goggles take a pair of scissors and enlarge the mouth holes.

Goggles– Revo Capsule with the Green Water Lens. The one “essential” category I don’t skimp on. I need quality breathable goggles for the mountain work I do and this pair has not disappointed. As a Revo ambassador I’m able to extend a 20% discount on these to any of my readers! All you need to do is order them directly from http://www.revo.com and enter promo code “ALPINESTARTF&F” and you’ll get 20% off the purchase!

Well that’s it for my “Essentials” list. Did I miss something? Let me know in the comments below!

Part 2 will focus on my various clothing systems specific for ice climbing, mountaineering, and back-country skiing.

Part 3 will focus on ice climbing gear and maintenance.

Part 4 will cover ski gear and maintenance.

If you enjoyed this post please share and subscribe!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer- Every product mentioned above except the goggles was purchased with my own money. This post contains affiliate links that help support this blog.

See you in the mountains!

Northeast Alpine Start

Gear Review- Revo Sunglasses and Goggles

October 19, 2017 Gear Reviews, Misc Reviews Goggles Review, performance goggles, performance sunglasses, Revo Goggles, Revo Sunglasses, Sunglass Review

I’m excited to announce I will be entering my second year as an ambassador for Revo! This company started back in 1985 and has steadily been producing some of the best high-end sunglasses and goggles on the market. Before I get into the product details I want to share some of the other things that make me psyched to be a part of this team.

Community & Social Responsibility

Revo has partnered with Bono and the Brien Holden Vision Institute (BHVI) to raise awareness about the Institute’s eye health programs and to provide aid to impoverished people around the world suffering from visual impairments. With every purchase Revo donates $10 to this campaign. While $10 might not seem like a lot it really makes a difference considering Revo has pledged to donate a minimum of 8.5 million dollars to this cause!

Climbing & Filmmaker Legend, Jimmy Chin!

If you are reading this blog you have most definitely heard the name Jimmy Chin. He’s been on The North Face Global Athlete Team for fifteen years, is one of the few people to climb and ski Mount Everest from the summit and has been profiled in multiple publications including National Geographic Magazine, VICE, Outside Magazine, People Magazine, and Men’s Journal. Did you see that amazing 2015 climbing film Meru? He produced and directed that. It so humbling to be connected to such a giant even if it is though 6 degrees of ambassador separation!

With those shameless plugs of how cool this company is let’s get into the actual product.

What does Revo make and how can it improve your time spent crushing outside?

Revo Sunglasses Review — Claude sporting Revo Traverse with the Blue Water Lens– photo from Brent Doscher

Revo makes top-of-the-line men’s and women’s sunglasses and goggles along with a modest line of apparel. My experience is with a few different models of sunglasses and the nicest pair of goggles I have ever owned. While style is a very individual taste the first thing you should know about Revo’s is the quality, and variety, of their lenses.

Lens Technology

Revo goes beyond simply selling a “polarized” lens and offering 100% UVA and UVB light. Every pair of Revo’s manages the full spectrum of light, including harmful ultraviolet light, Blue Light, and high-energy visible (HEV) light. By filtering the Blue Light you see a greater contrast between colors and a more pronounced brightness of objects. This has been quite obvious to me on a daily basis here in the White Mountains as we undergo peak foliage season! For further protection Revo’s also block HEV light which has been implicated as a cause of age-related macular degeneration (loss of vision).

Lens Materials

Revo uses two different materials for their lenses. The Serilium^TM lens is a lightweight, shatterproof, poly-carbonate lens, and is the only lens I have personal experience. The other material uses is a higher form of crown glass, trademarked “CRYSTAL^TM LENS”. Revo Crystal lenses are scratch resistant and are ground and polished to about the same standard as a camera lens.

Len Options

This is where I find Revo really shines in this market. The choices of lenses is almost overwhelming at first but I’m going to break it down and simplify the options with suggestions for end-use. But lets first look at a complicated yet informative chart.

Lots of data represented there but let’s look at the main lens options and how they look and perform along with what they would be best suited for.

Blue Water

As can be expected by the name Revo Blue Water lenses are perfect for cutting glare in bright conditions on the water. They are ideal for boating, sailing, fishing, skiing, and field sports.

Green Water

These have become my favorite lenses to date! Revo Green Water lenses enable natural colors to pop and radiate by completely cutting through surface glare in medium and low light conditions. They are ideal for golfing, tennis, biking, cycling, motorcycling, driving, fishing, boating, sailing, skiing, hunting, and shooting.

Graphite

Revo Graphite lenses enhance natural vibrant colors while blocking harmful rays and harsh glare. They are ideal for boating, sailing, fishing, baseball, softball, basketball, and tennis.

Terra

Revo Terra lenses actively filter the light spectrum to provide clear vision from trailhead to viewpoint. They are ideal for hiking, backpacking, mountain biking, hunting, shooting, and skiing.

Open Road

As the name suggestions the Revo Open Road lenses are ideal for driving, motorcycling, biking, and cycling. The lenses feature an image intensifier that filters to improve light adaptation in bright and low light situations while also precision tuning light transmission for greater sharpness, crispness, and contrast which also makes them ideal for hunting and shooting.

Now that you have a sense of the lens options you can spend forever trying to pick out the style you would like because Revo has just about every style imaginable! Aviator, rectangle, round, semi-rimless, square, wrap, and more… one might think it would be hard to narrow down the selection but Revo’s website has great filtering options to make this happen!

Warranty & Lens Replacement

By now you have found the slickest pair of shades you might ever own, but what’s the warranty on them? Revo has a common sense type of warranty that covers defects for 2 years and offers an affordable ($80) lens replacement option should you drop your sunglasses down 400 feet of Conway granite on Whitehorse Ledge and they end up quite a bit scratched but otherwise still serviceable. Yes, that did happen to someone. Instead of copying the details of the warranty here I will refer you to Revo’s FAQ page.

Revo Sunglasses Revo — The author rips skins just below 4,000 feet in Iceland while wearing the Revo Capsule goggles with Green Water lens– photo by Brent Doscher

Summary & Discount!

As you can see I’m quite sold on this brand, as any brand ambassador should be! If you’re curious about them seek me out on the cliff or on the slopes. I’d be happy to have you check out the models I’m currently sporting. I’m also am happy to be able to offer you a discount! Exclusive to Wild Northeast Magazine and Northeast Alpine Start readers you can get any pair of Revo sunglasses or goggles at 20% off with this promotion code when ordering directly from www.revo.com:

ALPINESTARTF&F

This code expires 12/31/17 which gives you a little over a month to do some shopping and save some money. If you have any specific questions about models, lenses, end-use, etc. please feel free to reach out to me!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: David Lottmann is a Revo brand ambassador and received all products mentioned at no cost.

Gear Review- LaSportiva Boulder X Approach Shoes (and Giveaway!)

October 16, 2017 Footwear Reviews, Gear Reviews Approach Shoe Reviews, Climbing Shoe Reviews, Gear Reviews, LaSportiva Boulder X, lasportiva climbing shoes, outdoor gear reviews

The LaSportiva Boulder X approach shoes are a rugged and supportive trail shoe best suited for rough trails and heavy loads. This past summer I received a pair to review and have since put about 80 miles on them and am ready to share my opinion on them.

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Buy on Backcountry

Buy at REI

Weight

Right out the box I noticed they are significantly heavier than most of my other approach shoes weighing in at 2 pounds 2 ounces (968 grams) for my size 42’s. It is easy to feel the weight difference when compared to the super light LaSportiva TX 2’s that I reviewed here, which only weigh 1 pound 5 ounces (592 grams), however these two shoes perform differently based on the design choices and task at hand. Let’s look at some of the details.

Fit/Comfort

For reference I am a US Men’s size 9 (European 42) with a medium forefoot width, medium heel width, and slight Morton’s toe. I received a size 42 in these and they felt slightly snug in the forefoot but the relatively thick padded tongue and all leather upper packed out and broke in nicely after about a dozen miles. The removable LaSportiva “Fit-thotic) insole has a nice amount of cushioning and is more than just a flimsy insole. Under the removable insole is a 2 mm polypropylene insole, then a Micropore EVA mid-sole, and finally a Vibram® Idro-Grip V-Smear™ with Impact Brake System™ out-sole. This is a ton of support underfoot that translates to less foot fatigue after grueling days on rugged terrain but also has some negative effect on climbing performance that we will get to below.

Hiking Performance

The LaSportiva Boulder X’s are great on rocky terrain and rough trails. The Vibram® out-sole offered plenty of traction in dirt, mud, and scree. After a short break-in period I could hike for 8+ hours in these and my feet would not be sore at the end of the day. This is because of the stiffer than most sole. You won’t feel every little pebble or protrusion under foot as you move through the mountains. They are also heavier than most so you might feel a little more leg fatigue after a long trail run. Because of this added weight and stiffness these would make a great early Spring/Summer alpine approach shoe if you need to occasionally cross snowfields. They will be able to edge in Spring snow better than lighter weight models and would match well with some Kahtoola Microspikes when added traction is needed.

Climbing Performance

The stiffness that helps prevent foot fatigue and provides so much support has positive and negative effects on the LaSportiva Boulder X’s climbing performance. The stiffer sole makes edging feel more secure but this also compromises the shoe’s ability to smear. It’s a trade off that can not be avoided. These felt great in all 4th class and low 5th class terrain but the author would swap into dedicated climbing shoes for 5.5 and above.

Durability

These are definitely one of the more rugged models of approach shoes I have tested in recent years. This comes with having a full leather upper and a full circumference sticky rubber rand in addition to the relatively thick Vibram® Idro-Grip V-Smear out-sole. After 80+ miles and thousands of feet of scrambling and climbing the shoes are still in great condition. I’d expect the soles of these to provide 500-1000 miles of rugged trail use before needing a re-sole.

Pack-ability

When thought of as a hiking or trekking shoe this category wouldn’t matter that much, but as an approach shoe we must consider how pack-able the shoes are when it’s time to don more technical rock climbing shoes and in this case these shoes are quite heavy and bulky. While that extra weight equals more support and durability there is a definite trade off if you need to clip these to the back of your harness or stuff them into a small climbing pack.

Summary/Best Use

The LaSportiva Boulder X is a durable and supportive hiking/trekking shoe that can cross over to approach shoe realm by climbing technical routes better than most trail shoes but not as well as lighter approach shoes more dedicated to that cause. The stiffer soles are great for people who find their feet sore after a rugged hike and also make this a great choice for aid climbers who spend time standing in aiders. If support and durability are high on your list of priorities you should take a close look at these. If lightweight, pack-ability, and climbing ability is more prudent than take a look at my review of the LaSportiva TX 2’s!

(available in Men’s and Women’s)

Buy on Amazon

Buy on Backcountry

Buy at REI

Contest & Giveaway:

The good folks at Friendly Foot have supplied me with a steady flow of the best damn foot-powder in the whole world. Every footwear review will offer a chance to win a bottle of this awesome sauce. Contest ends 10/31/17 12:00 am EST. To enter just click the link below!

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See you in the mountains!

Northeast Alpine Start

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Book Review- Where You’ll Find Me; Risk, Decisions, and the Last Climb of Kate Matrosova

October 10, 2017 Gear Reviews, Musings, Uncategorized climbing accidents, climbing books, Climbing Literature, Kate Matrosova, Where You'll Find Me

Last week I caught a program on NHPR’s Exchange centered on this high profile 2015 White Mountain climber fatality. My connection to this story started with a Mountain Rescue Service call-out on the late afternoon of February 15th, 2015 when I was driving home from teaching an AIARE Avalanche Course. My commitments to the on-going course would prevent me from responding to the call-out but I would follow the rescue attempt carefully over the next 48 hours and shortly after post this blog post about the outcome and my initial thoughts.

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This tragedy would go on to capture the attention of the national media and local interest and has now been brought back into the limelight with the publication of this book, Where You’ll Find Me; Risk Decisions, and the Last Climb of Kate Matrosova.

I received the book from Amazon this past Monday and by Thursday I had carved out enough time to read it cover to cover. I want to dive into a bit more detail about this take on the well publicized story rather than just say this is a “must read”.

The author, Ty Gagne, points out this particular rescue attempt gathered a lot of media attention for multiple reasons. First there was the real-time media engagement of an active search and rescue attempt occurring during a well forecasted “perfect storm.” Second was the victim seemed to not fit the typical “flat-lander” stereo-type that causes some in the north country to quickly cast blame on those who end up floundering a bit in the mountains. She was equipped with high end gear and clothing and multiple electronic safety devices… so what went wrong?

In an eloquent and respectful way Ty manages to walk us through Kate’s back-ground, planning, and finally execution of what would be Kate’s last mountain adventure. Having summited a few of the tallest peaks in the world many perceived she had a lot of experience, however through careful retrospection it becomes clear that her previous mountain achievements were mostly guided ventures, allowing someone with more experience and local knowledge to make critical go/no go decisions. For all intents and purposes it appears this was her first non-guided high risk adventure…yet as Ty documents she was quite meticulous about her planning.

Where You'll Find Me Book Review Kate Mastosova — Kate’s route plan with bailout options highlighted

Much of this book however was not actually about Kate but about those who work tirelessly on search and rescue. Some are paid state employees while most are volunteers from all walks of life. Ty is able to describe multiple timelines from these heroes and their own struggles while Kate’s epic unfolds in a clear and engaging manner from start to sad finish. This re-telling from multiple perspectives is well done but he goes beyond simply just saying what happened when and to whom…

Throughout the book Ty instructs the reader on the incredibly complex topic of “risk management”. This should be easy for Ty as his career is in corporate risk management, but the way he converts high risk corporate strategy to what we do in the mountains is quite amicable. He draws upon lessons from multiple walks of life from high stakes corporate decisions to the most current recreational avalanche safety and mitigation theory. The reader is left with no choice but to think more intentionally about how they manage their own risk whether planning a solo hike in the White Mountains or a day cragging with friends, we are all left with the reminder that nature is indifferent in her response to our often very personal decisions.

Buy on Amazon

Summary

Ty has done an excellent job researching and presenting this tragic event in a very respectful yet honest manner. For those who have read and enjoyed the acclaimed “Not Without Peril” this is another “must read” for your library. We can all learn something from Kate’s story and Ty’s re-telling of it is a powerful and fitting tribute to her final mountain adventure.

Resources

Find this book locally at the White Mountain Cafe in Gorham, NH, White Birch Books in North Conway, NH, at SOLO in Conway, NH, and the White Mountain Wanderer in Lincoln, NH, International Mountain Equipment in North Conway, or buy it on Amazon here.

HikeSafe.com

Donate directly to Mountain Rescue Service (MRS)

Donate directly to Androscroggin Valley Search and Rescue (AVSAR)

Donate to NH Fish & Game Search and Rescue

Whitehorse Ledge and Self-Rescue

October 8, 2017 Professional Development, Rock Climbing, Self-Rescue, Tech Tips, Trip Reports climbing, rock climbing, self-rescue, Tech Tips

I spent the last two days with Katie and Chris, a couple from Mass who are quickly becoming more and more proficient in their climbing. Earlier this summer we spent a day together working on building quality top-rope anchors so that they could hit their local MA crags in style and this weekend they returned to be introduced to some multi-pitch climbing in addition to building upon their self-rescue skills.

rock climbing Whitehorse Ledge — Chris and Katie below 900 foot high Whitehorse Ledge

The forecast was for some potential early afternoon rain but we got an early start and were first on The Cormier-Magness Route around 9 AM. This relatively new addition to such a historic cliff really is the best 5.6 option on the Whitehorse slabs in my opinion… it really does live up to some of the Mountain Project hype… just be cool with typical Whitehorse run-outs and you will love this climb!

We topped out at about 12:30 PM and relaxed with some lunch before heading down. It was great to see so many families and new hikers out enjoying the foliage… though it would have been nice to see them carrying a few basic essentials! Lots of “no-pack” hikers out there this weekend! Getting off my soap box and on to a different one our second day together was slated for self-rescue practice. This boded well because the weather forecast was pretty dismal with 70% chance of heavy rain by 10 AM.

The thing about practicing self-rescue skills is weather is irrelevant… we can practice rain or shine, often in the comfort of the indoors! While I have taught dozens of these courses I took a few minutes before Katie and Chris arrived to write down a rough outline of the skills I wanted us to cover. They arrived just after 8 AM and started with some discussions on what gear we should be carrying and looking at various examples of when these skills could be needed.

rock climbing self rescue — Rescue skill day rough topic outline…

We spent about 2 hours covering various knots, systems, and techniques involved in being able to problem solve your way out of a jam. By 11 AM we saw a break in the weather system and decided to grab a quick bite for lunch and head to the cliff for some more “real life” practice.

After running through this rescue scenario three times we still had some time and when I realized Katie hadn’t yet completed a full rappel I knew that was how we would wrap up our day. We went over to the Barber Wall and conducted a lower/belayed rappel followed by some short roping to cross the soaking wet slabs back to the climber trail but what I want to focus on right now is the fore-sight Katie and Chris have in their climbing career…

They are approaching climbing with the right mindset; enthusiastic, optimistic, and with due caution. Katie is a recently appointed AMC trip leader who has gained the skills needed to lead others on hikes in sometimes perilous places. Chris is confident and openly optimistic but willing to acknowledge quality practice and study is imperative to a solid grasp of mountain climbing skills. The two of them combined make a very powerful pair in my book, and I am really glad I was able to spend a couple more days with them on the journey to safer mountain-craft.

Katie, Chris… keep doing what you are doing. Read, climb, practice, climb, read some more, climb, ask questions, climb, and never stop improving! Thank you for keeping me involved in your climbing education and I look forward to our next day out!

Interested in some private instruction to improve your self-rescue skills? You can book a private course by using “DavidNEM” in the promo field when booking here. Please email me first at my contact link or at nealpinestart@gmail.com to make sure I have the date available and discuss personal goals and…

See you in the mountains!

Northeast Alpine Start

Family Rock Climbing

October 7, 2017 Rock Climbing, Trip Reports adventure kids, family rock climbing, get outside, kids outdoors, rock climbing, rock climbing with kids

Yesterday was one of the most fun guiding days as I got to introduce 3 amazing kiddos to their first outdoor rock climbing experience. David, their father, had considerable previous climbing experience but was coming off a long hiatus and thought a guided trip might be the best way to get the kiddos climbing on real rock after quite a few months of indoor gym climbing.

We met at the Northeast Mountaineering Bunkhouse promptly at 8 AM and made our way over to Whitehorse Ledge. My original plan was to take the family to the Echo Roof area because of the great kid friendly slab climbs that exist there. As we walked up the road towards the cliff I felt a couple drops of rain. I had checked the radar an hour earlier and things looked clear but something had since developed and an updated check indicated a passing cold front had about an hour of rain in-store for us starting… now.

We were heading into the hotel for a last minute potty break and when David came out I showed him the radar and let him know we would need to stall an hour and let this rain pass. He was game to sit it out in the lobby of the hotel with the most well behaved kiddos I could imagine. A huge thank you to the White Mountain Hotel staff who were so accommodating to us “non-guests” who sought shelter from the quick rain. They brought the kids juice and mini-muffins and offered free coffee to David and I. We ended up sitting down in their scenic dining room and ordering up some of the best blueberry pancakes with maple syrup butter I have ever had… If you are looking to stay in North Conway and fancy staying at the base of one of the best rock climbing cliffs in the east you should check this place out! The staff is amazing! Ok, back to our climbing day!

My original plan of Echo Roof was out, I didn’t fancy lead climbing 5.7 wet slab, so we walked (or skipped depending on age) back down to the climber parking and drove over to Cathedral Ledge.

Rock Climbing Cathedral Ledge — The quick storm is over and we are skipping our way back to the parking lot

Around 10 AM we were hiking up to the Thin Air Face. The excitement and natural curiosity of these kids was a sight to behold and my Instagram story was getting pretty epic. I ended up saving the story and will upload it here so you can see what I’m talking about:

Crazy inspiring right? I know. Multiple climbing parties that came through during the day were super jealous of our insane helmet game. Here’s some of the best pics from the day:

We climbed for 4 straight hours and these kiddos wanted to keep going! David… your kids are awesome! I was so happy to get to spend the day with you guys and I look forward to swaying you into some ice climbing this winter!

For those wondering about how old your kiddos should be before taking them rock climbing I’d say for many the 5+ age group is ideal! Their legs are strong enough to get them to the cliff and you would be absolutely amazed at what your kiddos are capable of!

David, thank you for choosing Northeast Mountaineering, and me, to be part of this epic day! I really had a great time with you guys!

For more information on getting your family out rock climbing start here and let me know in the comments if you have any questions!

See you in the mountains!

Northeast Alpine Start

Shop Kids’ Outerwear and Gear at Eastern Mountain Sports

Rumney, Whitney-Gilman, Pinnacle!

October 2, 2017 David Lottmann Rock Climbing, Trip Reports cannon cliff, climbing, mount washington, northeast ridge of the pinnacle, rock climbing, rumney rocks, whitney gilman ridge

I hope everyone is out there enjoying the best rock climbing weather of the year! Yesterday I finished three solid days of guiding for Northeast Mountaineering starting with a fun Friday at Rumney Rocks with Jennifer.

Rumney Rocks

Jennifer used to rock and ice climb all over the west before moving East and focusing on her career in Boston for the last decade but as the saying goes, once a climber, always a climber! The mountains were calling and after booking an upcoming 4 day climbing trip to Red Rocks she wanted to come up north and refresh her climbing skills and I was lucky enough to get to re-introduce her to the sport!

Week with Pete

Glory Jeans

Crowd Pleaser Pitch 1

Crowd Pleaser Pitch 2

Clip-A-Dee-Dah Pitch 1

Taking it all in towards the top of Jimmy Cliff

I can’t wait to hear about your Red Rocks adventure Jennifer and I look forward to climbing some ice with you this winter!

Whitney-Gilman Ridge, Cannon Cliff

Saturday I got to meet up with my good buddy and regular client Larry for his first taste of NH alpine climbing. Larry started his mountain adventures about 20 months ago when I led him and a group on a winter ascent of Mount Washington. We hit it off and he returned multiple times to ice climb with me before going out and sampling other climbing areas all around the country. We planned to tick off both of New Hampshire’s classic alpine ridge climbs starting with the Whitney-Gilman Ridge.

There were a few parties in the climber lot when I pulled in at 8:10 AM. A couple from Canada was heading off for Whitney Gilman and a party of three was heading for Lakeview. I filled out a climber sheet then hopped back in the car and drove down to Lafayette Campground, in my opinion the preferred approach for a Whitney-Gilman day. Larry arrived on time at 8:30 and we were heading up the trail by 8:40 AM.

As we got closer to the ridge I could see the Canadian couple finishing the 1st pitch and confirmed when we reached the alternate starting ledge there was no one else on route. Our timing was perfect as while we climbed the first two pitches right behind the Canadian couple no less than 3 or 4 parties arrived below. Some headed towards Duet/Reppy’s and two parties of two got on route behind us.

Despite it lightly raining a few times on the approach the rock stayed relative dry and the climbing went well.

We topped out a little before 2 PM and were back down to the car by 3 PM. While Larry has only been rock climbing a short time he has climbed in quite a few areas and he was certainly impressed with “New England 5.7″… to think of this route being first climbed in 1929 with hemp ropes and no pitons is quite awe inspiring! We parted ways for the evening but would meet up at 8 AM the following day for a trip into Huntington Ravine!

Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle

For our second day we headed high up Mount Washington for a super fun day on the Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle. Since I have a season pass to the Auto Road we skipped the long approach from Pinkham and were hiking down the Huntington Ravine trail a little before 9 AM. Luckily we had Northeast Mountaineering intern and super talented photographer Peter Brandon join us for the day and all images below are his!

I took advantage of this 4th class descent trail to practice some short-rope technique.

Short-Roping down the Huntington Ravine Trail

There was no one route yet when we arrived and one couple also using the “Euro” approach still making their way down the Huntington trail but with it being a beautiful weekend day I knew more folks would be arriving soon so we got racked up and moving.

Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle — Gear up and go!

I’ve been practicing transitions from The Mountain Guide Manual and decided to lead the first two pitches in “parallel” so I could belay both Larry and Peter at the same time. We cruised up the first two pitches in no time and I then switched us to “caterpillar” for the 5.8 crux pitch.

Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle, Huntington Ravine — Starting up the third pitch

While Larry was working the the crux moves a fast moving party of two, Micky and Ben, caught up to us. We let them play through and leap-frogged them once when we headed for the “Fairy Tale Traverse”. We held up here and let them pass again so we could get Peter in position to shoot this awesome last pitch.

Great meeting you Micky and Ben, your positive vibe was contagious and the wine & cheese spread you had waiting for your better halves at the top was most impressive!

After Peter led the last pitch we freed his rope and he pulled it up to get into a good position to shoot this last pitch. I then started out across this easy but exhilarating traverse.

We soaked in some sun and coiled our ropes to hike back up to the car but first we had to look down in the abysmal Pinnacle Gully, a route Larry had ice climbed with me just last winter!

And so Larry ticked off two NH greats in two days, but he isn’t done yet. As I type this he is en-route to climb in Acadia National Park where I am sure he will continue to gain knowledge and technique that will serve him well on all his climbing adventures. It is always awesome climbing with you Larry and I’m really looking forward to hitting the ice with you this winter!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

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