On April 28th, 2024 a climber fell almost 400 feet sustaining serious injuries when their rappel system failed. The suspected mechanism of failure was an improperly threaded girth hitched rappel ring. In this video I demonstrate how this occurrence is possible.
Some key take home points;
For better and/or worse we are seeing girth hitched rappel rings on fixed rappel anchors
Careful inspection of the hitch and proper placement of your threaded rope is CRITICAL
Best practice is to ALWAYS stress test your rappel connection BEFORE you remove your lanyard from the anchor.
Alpine Savvy also has a nice post with more information and some opinions on this situation here.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
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In the summer of 1994 a reluctant long-haired 15 year old camper at Horton Center was tied into a climbing rope at the base of Chapel Rock and coached up his first rock climb, a 60-foot moderate with expansive views of Pinkham and Carter Notch (though he didn’t know the name of these notches at the time). About halfway up the climb, he looked to the right and noted the contrast of rugged green mountains, crystal blue sky, and vertically displayed granite. Something in his adolescent mind clicked, and he went on to pursue a lifetime of climbing and guiding around New England, out west, and abroad.
Almost thirty years later an alumni of Horton Center reached out to this former camper having found an old blog post he wrote about some of the climbing on the nearby East Face of Pine Mountain and extended an invitation to revisit the area in an effort to open up new climbing possibilities for the campers.
Of course the former camper was excited to revisit and contribute to this beautiful White Mountain crag that sits just below the North Peak of Pine Mountain. After a few weeks of research it is with great pleasure that I present this info on the climbing at Chapel Rock, 30 years after my first time climbing this crag, and invite you to come enjoy this scenic cliff.
History
Climbing at Chapel Rock (also known as the North Peak of Pine Mountain) possibly started as early as the 1940s and 1950s with the formation of the 10th Mountain Division and the need to train soldiers in the art of technical climbing in order to effectively fight in the World War II European theater. A hand-illustrated book by Dwight Bradley and Tad Pfeffer (Obscure Crags Guide- A Guide to Obscure Cliffs in New Hampshire, and Some in Maine and Vermont), publication date 1972 or 19731, offers this description:
“This small cliff could easily quality [sic] as a one pitch roadside practice rock if it wasn’t for the fact that the road is closed to the public. The small size of the cliff makes it almost not worth the relatively long approach: the cliff is 60’ or 70’ and the walk in is about two miles. It is a really solid, pretty little piece of rock, though loaded with cracks and corners and almost dirt-free. The vertically jointed rock is quartz schist of the Littleton formation.
The climbs are numbered. Seriously. Numbers have been painted on the rock. For instance, numbers one and two are parallel low angle flakes which may be laybacked no hands, and number four is a clean dihedral. The story behind these numbers is that the Green Berets train here (as well as at the E. Face of Pine) during their annual June war games. The rock is studded with rusty Army pins. Those guys must aid everything. To make matters worse, somebody found the time to place a bolt right next to a perfect MOAC placement on the summit.
To get there, take the WMNF Pine Mtn. Tr., which is a road (closed to cars), all the way to its end at the Channel 10 TV tower. From the broadcasting station, a set of powerlines leads E, passing the cliff’s base in about 100 yards. A small trail leads down from the summit, which is occupied by an old rugged cross, making for a quick descent.”
Paul Cormier, who was a camper at Horton Center in the 1960s, recalls the military using the cliffs for training and has shared interesting photos of him performing a Dufersitz rappel and nailing out the impressive looking central nose feature (see photo section). He estimates that Ian Turnbell placed a few of the current bolted anchors about 15 years ago (around 2008?).
(Paul Cormier using the Dülfersitz rappel method at Chapel Rock, circa. 1968)
(Paul Cormier aid climbing the thin seam that comes out the right side of the impressive central “nose”. A keen eye can find the pin scars today from this ascent)
(Paul turning the corner of the roof. Note his brother with the attentive hip belay)
Ian Turnbell, the brother-in-law of Tad Pferrer, co-author of the guidebook mentioned above, also climbed here in the late 1970s and early 1990s. He recalls placing 4 or 5 of the anchors in the late 1980s but isn’t quite sure of the exact dates. He clearly recalls the anchor above Storybook getting moved and I can confirm this was the situation when I checked the site in Fall 2023. There are two bolts without hangers to the right of the current three bolt Storybook anchor.
In 1997 Al Simons and Steve Buck placed or replaced the bolted anchors on Storybook and Easy Rider, which is probably when the Storybook anchor was moved. Other anchors that were probably placed (or replaced) at that time are a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of “The Flake”. A two bolt anchor at the top of “Whistling in the Dark” which is set a bit far back from the edge and has no chains. This will be one of the first anchors I try to replace with a modern glue-in anchor that is below the lip of the cliff. Another two-bolt anchor with chains is at the top of Easy Rider. It should be noted that the camp leaves locking carabiners on these chains during the camp season to facilitate their climbing program. If you find any locking carabiners on any of the fixed anchors at this privately-owned crag please leave them in place. There may also be fixed ropes above these bolted anchors that counselors leave in place to help with accessing these anchors during the camp season. These should also be left in-place.
Access
This entire area is on the private property of the Horton Center and access to the climbing area is only permitted outside of the summer camp season. Climbing here is NOT PERMITTED from June 10th through August 15th. The climbing area is very close to the Camp facilities so please follow the approach directions carefully so as to not trespass on the area of the Camp that is off limits (essentially all buildings and grounds past the Pine Mountain Loop Trail, see directions and beta photos below).
Getting There
From Route 16 north of Pinkham Notch and south of Gorham take Dolly Copp Road (not maintained in winter) 1.9 miles to the parking lot for Pine Link Trail (19T 032216E, 4913606N 1646 elev.). From Route 2 in Randolph take Pinkham B Road (not maintained in winter) 2.5 miles to the parking lot for Pine Link Trail (19T 032216E, 4913606N 1646 elev.).
Take Pine Mountain Road. 700 feet from the parking lot the road may be gated. If it is, park at the Pine Link Trail parking lot and walk the 1.3 miles (560+ elev.) to the Pine Mountain Loop Trail (19T 0323413E, 4915203N 2180 elev.) If the road is not gated you may drive this approach carefully. The road is narrow in spots and there may be a vehicle coming the other direction. Park in one of the small pull offs close to the Pine Mountain Loop Trail before you reach the Horton Center Camp.
(The pulloff just past this sign is the last parking spot the public may use to access this climbing area if the gate is open. Do not drive past the yellow sign)
Hike the Pine Loop Trail .3 miles (95+ elev.) to the base of the climbing area (19T 0323769E, 4915255N 2220 elev.)
The Climbs
From left to right the established routes are as follows:
The Flake (5.3)
The most left route at the crag, history says that this route was often solo climbed by the more adventurous counselors at the nearby summer camp. It is a striking feature and while only 5.3 in difficulty you won’t find protection until about 20 feet up unless you carry a Black Diamond #5 cam or larger. The crux is the first few moves though and you’ll soon be able to get your leg behind the flake if need be and start finding protection higher up as the crack narrows. A two bolt anchor with chains is about 60 feet from the ground.
Lost and Found (5.9+)
A bouldery direct start gets you up to the stellar 5.5ish finger crack if you don’t use the pine tree at about 5.9+. An alternate start just to the right that utilizes the tree is probably around 5.7 though difficult to protect on lead. Once pulling the last tricky move to gain the lower angle crack above you’re in for some of the best 5.4-5.5 finger crack jamming you’ve ever done in NH. At the end of the crack a new two bolt anchor with rap rings was installed on September 4th, 2023 by Bob Ahern and David Lottmann.
(After getting through the initial tricky start of Lost and Found you are rewarded with this stellar 5.5ish finger crack)
Storybook (5.5)
A very interesting chimney system with ample protection, fun stemming, and some cool views into a deep chasm into the cliff mid-route. At the top is a three bolt anchor with chains set up on two of the bolts.
The Nose (A1?)
This was actually done as an aid climb by Paul Cormier around 1968, (see photo in history section).
Whistlin’ in the Dark (5.9)
The steep left face of Easy Rider, great jamming and movement with good protection. History says that the counselors at the nearby camp could not claim they had climbed this route unless they did it under a full moon. The two bolt anchor at the top is not in a great spot and will hopefully be updated and moved over the edge in the near future.
Easy Rider (5.6)
An aesthetic line (where the rope is) up the left facing dihedral. You can stay in the original corner for a bit to up it to 5.7ish or look to get into the right side crack early to keep the grade at 5.6. Fun moves with amazing views of the Imp Face, Cartner Notch, and Pinkham Notch over your right shoulder. And is that Mount Madison behind you at the top? Why yes, it is. The route ends at a two bolt anchor with long chains.
Note: Above these climbs are some fixed ropes that the camp staff utilize to set up top-ropes for their climbing program. Please do not alter/remove the ropes or locking carabiners that may be there when you visit.
Descent
All of these climbs (except Whistlin’) have easy-to-use fixed anchors for descending. There are plans to upgrade these anchors to glue-in style anchors with ramheads or mussey hooks in the not-too-distant future. If you decide to top out it is a short scramble to the scenic “Chapel Rock” lookout where a cross and natural pulpit reside. During camp season this ledge was a fond memory as the camp conducts “Evening Vespers” here… and I would stare off at the distant mountains as the sun set and spark a lifetime passion for time spent in the mountains. A short walk back down a nice path brings you back to the bog boardwalk that leads you back to the base of the cliff. Please be mindful of the signage that will keep you from entering the camp proper.
Support Public Access to Chapel Rock
Public access to Chapel Rock is NOT guaranteed. When climbing here be the best stewards you can possibly be. Horton Center does have the right to restrict access at any time of year if they have an event, so if you are asked to leave by staff please comply with a smile. You can support the mission of Horton Center and thank them for allowing access with a donation here.
1 From phone interview with Tad Pfeffer on 9/16/2023
I’ve been using the Girth Hitch Master Point (GHMP) Anchor System for a little over a year now having learned it from the great educational social media feeds of Dale Remsberg and Cody Bradford. Recent testing on the method was conducted by Derek DeBruin and John Sohl the Petzl facility in Salt Lake City and they published these results.
TL:DR Version:
“The girth hitch is a viable solution for the master point for anchor rigging, provided that;
1) Approximately 5cm of slip is within the climbing party’s risk tolerance
2) The girth hitch is cinched snugly by hand and body weight prior to use. This applies to a variety of rigging materials, such as HMPE or nylon slings or cord, as well as material conditions, whether new or used, dry or wet.” – Derek DeBruin
Best Uses:
There’s quite a few places this system could be well applied. It is primarily a solution for multi-pitch climbing. This isn’t a great option for constructing anchors that will be used for top-rope climbing. On a multi-pitch route with bolted belay stations I might even consider keeping a sling rigged with this system (much like how I keep a pre-tied mini-quad on my harness). Even if the bolts at the next station are not exactly the same distance apart you only need to loosen the hitch a bit to properly adjust it. On a multi-pitch route with traditional gear anchors a double-length Dyneema sling is a light & fast option for rigging this system. Multi-pitch ice climbing is where I see perhaps the greatest benefit as rigging this with gloves on will often be achievable with just an alpine-draw and good ice.
Here’s a video I created showing the method along with some suggestions, namely utilizing a full strength closed rappel ring as a master point instead of a locking carabiner, which adds security and saves a locking carabiner for other uses.
Summary
Because this is a material efficient and proven redundant glove friendly system I plan on keeping it in my growing “tool kit” of options. I still carry one mini-quad with me when I prefer independent master points (more comfortable for a party of three) and use it often as a glove friendly redundant rappel extension. The advantages over tying a more traditional old school pre-equalized cordelette anchor are great enough that I see less and less reason for ever taking my cordelette off the back of my harness. I still carry it for self-rescue purposes but newer anchor methods like the GHMP and mini-quad seem to solve most anchor problems more effectively. I’m stopping by REI today to pick up one a SMC Rigging Ring which is almost half the weight of the stainless steel one I used in the video. You should consider adding this to your tool kit!
Product Giveaways!
I’m running two giveaways at the moment. You can enter to win a SOL Emergency Bivvy Sack before the end of the month in the raffle at the bottom of this review of SOL survival products! You can also enter to win a camming device of your choice* by competing in an anchor building contest that ends at the end of October… rules for that contest are at this Instagram post.
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous, you could die following any advice from this post. Seek qualified instruction and mentorship. Affiliate links above support the content created at Northeast Alpine Start.
*cam will be selected by the winner from any in-stock cam at International Mountain Equipment in North Conway, NH. Free shipping within the US.
I’m excited to announce I’m offering half day skills clinics again from now through October! In addition to previous offerings I have added a “Improved Sport Climbing at Rumney, NH” clinic with details below! Dates still open will be listed below. If you see a clinic you would like to attend and the date is sill available message me through the contact form at the bottom. Once I confirm the date is still available you will be invoiced from Northeast Mountaineering and we will lock the date down!
Pricing
1 person* $175 2 person* $250 3 person $330 4 person $400
Hours
10am – 2pm
Improved Sport Climbing, Rumney NH
Rumney
This is a custom 4 hour curriculum designed for the gym climber who is transitioning to lead climbing outside or has already been doing some outdoor sport leading but could polish their skills. A general list of topics covered; Crag Selection, Rope Management, The Partner Check (more than just a belay check), Quickdraw Orientation, Clipping Technique, Proper Rope Positioning, Avoiding Back-Clipping, Avoiding Z-Clipping, Lead Belayer Skills, Safer Falling, Ground Anchors, Top-Rope Anchors, Cleaning Sport Anchors, Lowering vs. Rappelling, Clear Communication.
For those who are lead climbing or ready to take the sharp end you will be able to lead multiple routes within your ability. The focus will be on systems and not pushing your on-sight level.
Top-Rope Climbing at Square Ledge
Foliage as of 9/26/20 from the top of Square Ledge
If you have never rock climbed before you can’t pick a better place to try it than Square Ledge in Pinkham Notch. A short 25 minute hike brings us to this 140 tall cliff with amazing views of Mount Washington and it is just covered in good hand and foot holds. There are climbs here that anyone can do! A great choice to see if you’ll like outdoor rock climbing, and the foliage is really starting to show up there!
Guided Multi-Pitch Climb, Upper Refuse, Cathedral
Reaching the top of Upper Refuse, Cathedral Ledge, 9/27/20
This three pitch 5.6 climb on Cathedral Ledge is an excellent introduction to multi-pitch traditional climbing and happens to offer an incredible view of Mount Washington Valley. You should have some prior outdoor top-roping experience for this clinic. *only available for 1 person or 2 person groups
Self Rescue and Multi-pitch Efficiency
Photo from Fall 2020, masks currently not required outside for vaccinated participants
This skills based program will help intermediate and experienced sport and trad climbers acquire the skills necessary to perform a self-rescue and improve your overall efficiency on multi-pitch climbs. The curriculum includes improvised hauling systems, belay escapes, smooth transition techniques, and rope ascension. A solid foundation in basic belaying, rappelling, and lead climbing will help you make the most of this program.
Interested? Just fill out this form and include your billing address, phone number, the date(s) and which program you would like to book and I will get back to you as soon as possible to confirm the date is still available and Northeast Mountaineering will invoice you!
