Mount Washington Windless Ascent 3/20/2016

While I have over 50 winter ascents of Mount Washington I can count on one hand how many of them allowed me to stand on the summit with zero wind. Yesterday David, Charlene, and Sam returned for their third climbing day of the season with me, having previously climbed some ice at Cathedral Ledge and Willey’s Slide, today’s objective was a winter ascent of Mount Washington, all in preparation for David’s next attempt on Mt. Rainier this August.

EMS Climbing School
Charlene, Sam, and David hitting the trail at 8:15am

Trail conditions had improved a bit and micro route finding got us to the Summer Lion’s Head Trail without resorting to micro-spikes or crampons. Where the trail steepens, at the first avalanche path, we stopped and donned micro-spikes. Again, micro route finding and a little coaching got us up to tree-line without having to resort to our mountaineering crampons. The small avalanche prone snow slope just before treeline provided some brief introduction to snow layering and “what causes avalanches”. It even provided some positive hand shears for reference.

We made good time up to a windless Lion’s Head and took in the view while refueling.

EMS Climbing School
Nice to hang out on top of Lion’s Head instead of huddled in the alcove below
EMS Climbing School
Couple of skiers heading up Left Gully in Tuckerman Ravine

A casual walk to the base of the summit cone then up to Split Rock.

EMS Climbing School
Charlene & Sam close in on Split Rock while David & I count the 7 ski resorts we could see with 100 mile visibility

By 12:30 we were on the summit reveling in the rarest of conditions with dozens of other climbers. A quick check of the weather station info indicated the current wind speed was 3 miles an hour.

3mph. On Mount Washington. Yup, it was pretty nice up there.

EMS Climbing School
Blue sky for miles and miles

We relaxed for a bit then headed down at 1pm passing a few large guided groups on our descent, arriving at Pinkham right at 4pm. It was another great day with these three adventurers and I look forward to our next trip together. Rumors of a Franconia Ridge Traverse and some rock climbing this Spring were heard, and I can’t wait to hear about David’s Rainier climb this August!

PSA:

Heads up, it’s still winter on Mount Washington! Today Mount Washington Avalanche Center has posted Considerable Avalanche Danger. Don’t let the calendar fool you into thinking your don’t need to be snow smart while recreating up there. Also look out for each other. I ran into a teenager in blue jeans at the bottom of the Summer Lion’s Head trail who’s two friends had gone up to “see where this trail goes” without any traction, maps, headlamps, etc… Spring usually brings a fair share of search & rescue calls so if you see something a bit sketch consider sharing some friendly advice.

Gear Giveaways Coming!

Also as the winter guiding season draws close I’m planning a more detailed recap of the avalanche course season and a few product giveaways. Early in April I’ll be giving a VSSL Supplies kit away in a contest ($110 value). I reviewed this clever little kit here. I’ve you want to find out how to enter please follow this blog at the top right so you’ll be notified when I post the contest no later than mid-April.

See you in the mountains,

-NEAlpineStart

The 2015/16 Avalanche Course Season has ended!

Yesterday we finished our last avalanche course of the season with an AIARE 2 on Mount Washington. With back to back AIARE 1’s and two AIARE 2’s I fell behind on a bit of blogging so below you’ll find photos from these courses:

AIARE 1 March 4-6

AIARE 2 March 9-10/16-17 (Split Guides Course)

AIARE 2 March 11-14

Despite it being a rough winter snow wise every avalanche course had interesting conditions and productive field sessions. I’m heading back up the hill on Sunday with some clients and with the incoming weather I might get out of the skis a couple more times but I’m definitely thinking about warm sunny rock as well…

A big thank you to all of our avalanche course participants for contributing to another great season.

See you in the mountains!

-NEAlpineStart

Give’r Four Season Gloves Review

How much thought should one put into their choice of gloves for mountain adventures? If you are a hiker, climber, or skier, you probably spend a fair amount of time thinking about your glove choice. After all, our clothing is really “gear” that needs to perform well by keeping us warm and dry in a variety of adverse conditions under different levels of exertion. To that end most mountaineers head into the hills with 2 or 3 pairs of gloves meant to adapt to the situation. A common system, and one I’ve used for over a decade, is a 3 pair system.

  1. An ultra thin wicking glove liner that I can use on sweaty approaches rather than going bare knuckle… one shouldn’t handle cold crampons with bare hands and one doesn’t have to if one uses glove liners…
  2. A medium weight type glove for colder ascents. Still super breathable so a great choice for super cold but high exertion type climbing before you get above treeline. Coincidentally these Outdoor Research Alibi II gloves also rock at harder technical ice climbing.
  3. A “full on” glove. Ski glove. Mountaineer’s glove. Warm, and waterproof, but a bit bulky (read less-dexterous), but able to keep our very important digits from going numb in the coldest conditions.

This where the newly released Give’r Four Season Gloves come in.

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The 4-Season Give’r Gloves Review

First, what does “Give’r” mean? From the Giver’r website it means “To give it your all, go for it”. This grassroots company started in Wyoming in 2011 first with hats then launched it’s website in March 2012 with a line of adventurous quality “lifestyle” clothing.

Philosophy:  Give’r promotes a lifestyle fueled by passion, purpose, challenge and adventure.  We aim to inspire the unrelenting pursuit of dreams, the confidence to take the road less traveled, and the desire to share the wonders of life with others.  Give’r represents an inclusive lifestyle embodied by those who frequently ask the question, “Why not?”. – www.give-r.com

I heard about the company a few months ago via their social media campaign, specifically sponsored Facebook items in my news feed announcing a new “four season” glove that looked much like my beloved Kincos. I reached out to their Marketing Team and was sent a demo pair to test months before they would be available to the public. This new four season glove is built upon the successful Give’r Classic Gloves:

Give'r Classic Gloves
Give’r Classic Gloves- photo from http://www.give-r.com

Still insulated with an all leather exterior, they’ve added some beefiness, a leather skirt, elastic cuff, improved the design to be form fitting, and reinforced areas for durability.  The biggest addition is the waterproof membrane which makes the 4-Season Gloves 100% waterproof and windproof without needing any maintenance (unlike Kincos).

As an avalanche course leader I spend quite a bit of time poking my hands into cold snow. While this winter may have seemed mild we did hit a record breaking -40f and I spent quite a few days above treeline in “crazy cold” conditions. The Give’r Four Season Gloves easily matched the warmth of my trusted Kinco Ski Gloves.

The 4-Season Give'r Gloves Review
Checking snowpack layering at 4000 feet with the 4-Season Give’r Gloves

So what sets them apart from Kincos? First, I’d say the fit. After a couple of days break-in these felt comfortable enough to lead moderate ice climbs (Grade 3 or lower in my opinion). I’d certainly opt for my more form fitting Outdoor Research Alibi 2’s for any grade 4 or harder, but for cold weather Grade 3 these worked great*! I even grabbed a bit of GoPro footage and dusted off the old iMovie skills for a quick clip of them in action. Please excuse my mention that Give’r was out of Utah. Give’r is a Wyoming based company!


So they were dexterous enough for Grade 3 ice climbing. If I was focused on just ice climbing with them I’d grade them a solid B. While that might seem low consider my ratings for some other uses:

Mountaineering A+

Ski Mountaineering A+

Back-country Skiing A+

Lift Service Skiing A+

Winter Hiking/Camping A+

Snowshoeing A+ (if it is really cold out)

Snow Blowing the Driveway A++

Shoveling the Driveway A+ (you should get a snowblower)

Sledding A++

Making a Snowman A+++

Extreme Snow Angel Making A+++

Obviously these gloves have a place in your quiver of gloves since most winter enthusiasts enjoy 4+ of the above activities. There’s a couple of other things that set this company’s gloves apart from anything you’ve probably ever purchased.

1. Customization. The Give’r Classic Gloves offer free** initial engraving on each pair. This is pretty cool as there is no way your climbing partner or significant other is going to try to booty your gloves when they’ve basically been branded. 3-initials is the limit, so I can think of a few acronyms I might opt for rather than my own initials.

Giver Gloves Review
Give’r Gloves customization- photo from http://www.giver-r.com

2. Hand applied wax coating. The company offers this personal service for hand treating the leather with SnoSeal to double the waterproofness and help preserve the leather. Personally, I enjoy this step to much to have someone else do it. It’s therapeutic. But maybe you are busy and want someone to treat them for you? $10 gets the job done!

Finally another big difference between this and similar style gloves is the use of a 100% waterproof Hipora lining. There are some advantages and disadvantages to this construction.

The Disadvantage:

Drying time. The combination of liner + leather exterior really limits feasible breath-ability. If moisture gets in the glove from either perspiration or bad habits (don’t drop your gloves in the snow while putting your crampons on) it will be hard for it to exit. I noticed after two hours on my electric boot/glove dryer I still had moisture in the finger tips after a long field day. Reaching out to the manufacturer I confirmed this is an issue, and the seal around the wrist that is so good at keeping snow and cold out of the glove is equally good at not letting the warm electric dryer air let that vapor out when trying to “hyper” dry.

The best option? Don’t use an electric dryer, prop them open with an empty paper towel tube, and sit them upright on my baseboard heaters. This solution allowed them to dry fully overnight after a rather damp day on the hill. The key here is airflow in & out of the glove.

The Advantage:

Greater warmth and bombproof water-proofness! With the Hipora lining & treated leather you’ve got essentially a vapor barrier type system. High altitude climbers know the benefits (and disadvantages) of using vapor barrier socks, pants, shirts, etc. There is no question that these gloves, while similar in appearance to my Kinco Ski Gloves, are indeed warmer given this property. This advantage diminishes with multi-day trips away from drying sources, but for day outings in arctic cold these are the bomb.

Summary:

A new comer to the true 4 season glove market I think this company is got a hit with this new model. I’m anxious to try their Classic model which is available to purchase directly from their website here. The 4 Season Model is currently in the Kickstarter phase and early supporters are able to secure some of the first shipments in June 2016 for $69/pair, 30% off the retail price of $99 by pledging here. There are a limited number of pre-orders available (as of the date and time of this post 444/735) so if you want to get in on a pair now is a great time!

Disclaimer: While the pair I tested was provided at no charge it was only a loaner and has been returned to the manufacturer. To that end I could not comment much on durability though the manufacturer has provided quite a bit of info regarding how well these hold up, and personal inspection indicates they would probably out live my Kinco Ski Gloves (901 model) which are showing some seam failure on the end of their 2nd full winter season (keep in mind that’s still a lot of field days!). All this aside, these opinions are my own and I’m happy to pinky swear.

Coming up: Avalanche course season is drawing to a close. For those participants waiting on photos/write ups I’ll be combing the Level 1 two weeks ago and the 2 Level 2’s ending this week all in one season recap later this week. Thanks for reading!

See you in the Mountains,

NEAlpineStart

AIARE 1 Avalanche Course 2/26/16-2/28/16

Despite it not being the best conditions for skiing this season Mother Nature has provided a complex snow pack to aid with our learning outcomes in each avalanche course. This past weekend was no exception as we wrapped up our 5th AIARE 1 avalanche course of the season.

EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
Super top secret field location for Snowpack Observations on Day 2
EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
Companion Rescue drill on Day 2
EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
Discussing route option on Day 3
EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
Some hand shears on our way up to Right Gully
EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
Just right of Right Gully
EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
Mike’s group investigating the layering in the “Open Book”
EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
End of tour review followed by course debrief

Another course down. Just one more L1 left, this weekend, then 2 more L2’s and we can say goodbye to the 2015/16 avalanche course season. Here’s hoping we get a few more systems so our Spring ski season can survive through April!

See you in the mountains,

NEAlpineStart

 

Patagonia Men’s Reconnaissance Jacket Review

With a half dozen ski tours completed I’m finally ready to share my opinion on this new jacket from Patagonia’s extensive line of ski & snowboard clothes. The Patagonia Men’s Reconnaissance Jacket is obviously built for solid days in the back-country. Let me show you why!

PATAGONIA MEN'S RECONNAISSANCE JACKET Review
PATAGONIA MEN’S RECONNAISSANCE JACKET Review

Breath-ability:

Designed for “high output search missions” this is a hybrid style of shell, combining the extreme breath-ability of soft-shell fabric with 100% waterproof breathable 3 layer stretch fabric. So what does this mean? You can keep this shell on over your base layer longer while skinning in those (should I wear my shell or not?) type conditions. Two classic examples would be high output uphill travel with cold wind chills (hello Mount Washington) or high output uphill travel with misty/wet conditions (hello again Mount Washington). The point is this shell jacket has a higher breath-ability than any true back-country shell jacket I have worn. While not waterproof throughout, this design is optimal for crushing uphill mileage when all the precipitation you are dealing with is of the frozen variety.

PATAGONIA MEN'S RECONNAISSANCE JACKET Review
Still comfortable after skinning up to HoJo’s

Freedom of Movement:

While soft-shell fabrics typically have a fair amount of stretch the 3 layer waterproof material used in the construction of this jacket also has a fair amount of stretch. This two-way stretch allows complete freedom of movement. The material feels soft to the touch and this stretch through out is most noticeable when your well fitted ski pack straps are all cinched down in preparation for descent. Shoulder straps, waist belt, and sternum strap all under tension, this jacket conforms with every twist of the torso as you find your line though steep powder or icy bumps and water bars (hello again Mount Washington).

Fit:

According to Patagonia this has a “Regular Fit: Neither slim nor over-sized. Regular-fitting technical garments may be worn over heavier mid-layers.” With a 40 inch chest I went with the medium and the fit is great on my 5’9″ 175 pound build. Because it is a regular fit I can easily wear my base layers (synthetic T and PowerStretch Hoodie) under it, adding a Primaloft sweater in very frigid conditions.

Features/Convenience/Technology:

There is a lot more to talk about here. Let’s start with the fully taped seams inside.

30340_ECTB_OPEN

While Patagonia points out this helps to keep moisture out I’d also wager it will also help with the longevity of the garment. Modern taped seams like this give the inside of the jacket a very nice finished look.

Pockets:

Yes, you can put a lot of thought into pockets. We start with 2 generously sized hand warmer pockets. Then add two chest pockets, one with an internal zippered stash pocket perfect for your smartphone (a small port allows you to pass headphones through). Inside there is also a large “drop in” pocket for goggles or gloves. Finally a sleeve pocket is perfect for stashing my compass/clinometer and lip balm. All zippers used are high quality urethane coated zippers.

Recco:

On the back of the neck the jacket has a Recco Avalanche Rescue Reflector. While this technology doesn’t replace carrying a beacon in the back-country it does add another chance at being found if caught in-bounds or anywhere a trained rescue group employs Recco search units.

Here’s a short manufacturer video highlighting many of the features I have commented on:

Bottom Line:

This is a very high end shell designed with a fairly specific goal in mind. A wind-proof highly water resistant shell that can handle the exertion of both uphill skinning and challenging downhill back-country skiing. The fact that it is produced by a company well known for its social and environmental responsibility is icing on the cake. If you are in the market for a shell for skiing or riding, especially for back-country trips, I can highly recommend you take a look at this choice option! You can find the best price on Amazon right here!

PATAGONIA MEN'S RECONNAISSANCE JACKET Review
Tuckerman Ravine 2/15/16

Thanks for reading!

See you in the mountains,

NEAlpineStart

Disclaimer: While this item was provided by Patagonia for the review the opinions I’ve formed over the last two months are indeed my own. This post contains affiliate links that help support this blog.

Ice Climbing Willey’s Slide and Frankenstein

Yesterday Charlene, David, and Sam returned for an Ice Climbing 201 Course. A few weeks ago they went through our Winter Climbing 101 course and I posted that trip report here. With the basics out of the way we made our way to the famous Willey’s Slide in Crawford Notch.

EMS Climbing School
Leaving the parking lot ready for anything
EMS Climbing School
Willey’s Slide is a II Grade 2 ice climb, 4-6 pitches in length. Average angel is about 40 degrees but steeper bulges keep it interesting

After practicing some self arrest we roped up and made our way up the right hand side for 3 full pitches of snow & ice climbing.

EMS Climbing School
Sam won the award for best color coordination. (She also climbed quite well!)
EMS Climbing School
The left side was busy with multiple parties
EMS Climbing School
At our high point we built a V-thread and rapped three times back to the base

I’m looking forward to my next day with these three in late March when we make an attempt on Mount Washington. David’s heading back to Rainier in August and I can’t wait to hear about his trip!

Today I had a day off, so long time friend and climbing partner Tom C., store  manager for EMS Nashua, met me for a day of cragging at Frankenstein. We headed toward Standard Route.

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Bluebird everywhere today!
EMS Climbing School
Tom gets us up Standard Right all the way to Penguin P2

My first time on Penguin this year and the crux is definitely the first steep bit. A little brittle and awkward but once you reach the upper pillar the climbing is fantastic. Plastic fresh ice and bomber gear brings you to the top.

EMS Climbing School
Tom tops out Penguin

We headed down the descent trail, which is in the most technical conditions I have ever seen it. No snow in the gully makes the “gully proper” look like a valid grade 2 ice climb in its own right. I think the easiest down climb leaves the ridge a bit early rather than working down to the weird step down with great dry tool placements. YMMV.

We moved over to Dracula which had a party finishing the left side and a strong climber firing a steep line far right while a photographer on rappel snapped away. Once the left side was clear we cruised a very fun line in less than 20 minutes.

EMS Climbing School
First screw for me near the ice encased pin anchor then 5 more up steep, but hooked and easy to stem terrain

I lowered Tom and dropped the rope for him to coil while I hustled back down the descent gully. We considered hitting Pegasus Rock Finish on our hike out but our growling stomachs beat our motivation and we retired to the brewpub after a quick drive through the notch to check on other route conditions.

EMS Climbing School
I’ve eyed this line (to the right of Elephants Head) for years and it looks quite reasonable right now… but food & beer won out… if it lasts a couple more days I might be able to get on it

The ice is in fantastic shape right now, except for those south facing routes (Bob’s Delight is DONE)…. warmer temps bring softer (aka easier) ice climbing conditions, but keep your wits about you on anything getting baked above you.

See you in the mountains,

NEAlpineStart

Mount Washington Observatory Overnight

This past Friday I co-guided a group of 8 guests to the summit of “the rock-pile” to spend the night in the famous Mount Washington Observatory. This is really one of the most unique trips EMS Schools offers. It combines a typical Mount Washington Ascent with a very atypical evening in a weather station on the highest peak of the Northeast, commonly referred to as “Home of the World’s Worst Weather”.

This opportunity allows guests, after climbing the mountain, to step inside a weather station that feels like it could be in the middle of the North Pole. We get to interact with the staff and learn about their important work in regional forecasting and research. We’re fed a hearty dinner and relax in a cozy lounge equipped with classic old books on mountaineering along with modern amenities like a Keurig & Netflix. While this was the only “Obs” trip I’ll be a part of this season I was reminded of what a unique experience each and every trip up there has been, and I look forward to the next opportunity to return and introduce more of our guests to such a wickedly awesome place.

EMS Climbing School
EMS Schools Guide Justin explains the differences in crampons before we head to the mountain
EMS Climbing School
After reaching treeline we continue to climb to Lion’s Head
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Justin close to Lion’s Head with Boott Spur Ridge in the background
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The group pauses below Lion’s Head
EMS Climbing School
A couple of steeper moves before reaching the small Lion’s Head summit
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A size-able crown line is visible from a natural avalanche in “The Chute”, the 2nd from the left gully in this photo
EMS Climbing School
The summit so close yet so far
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Moving on from Lion’s Head
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Wildcat Ski Area behind us as we continue
EMS Climbing School
In the distance Cranmore Mountain and North Conway far below
EMS Climbing School
At the base of the summit cone. This stretch is probably responsible for the most people getting disorientated in poor visibility conditions. It’s about 287 degrees to Split Rock, and about 107 degrees back. Bearings one should know if taking this route unguided.
EMS Climbing School
Visibility on our ascent was excellent however, so no compass needed as we reach Split Rock (our descent the following day would prove otherwise)
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Reaching the summit was cause for some celebration
EMS Climbing School
It’s a good feeling

We entered the Sherman Adams Summit Building at about 4pm. Kaitlyn O’Brien, Co-Director of Summit Operations, greeted us and welcomed us to the “MWOBS”. After an orientation and safety briefing we relaxed in the new guest lounge located in the new “Extreme Mount Washington” weather museums.

EMS Climbing School
Guest lounge at 6,288 feet

After a very hearty ham dinner served promptly at 7pm we took a tour of the weather room.

EMS Climbing School
Answering the question “So why is Mount Washington so unique?”

Some participants took a tour of the weather tower and got to climb up into the “parapit”, the highest point on the summit about 30 feet higher than the geological summit. It is quite the experience. Others relaxed and watched a goofy comedy in the lounge before turning in. The weather for the next day was quite different, and many wanted a full night’s rest.

The next morning a hearty breakfast of bacon, sausage, pancakes, eggs, and toast was served by the excellent MWOBS members/summit volunteers who were spending a week up there cooking and performing light house keeping for the staff. We then geared up an prepared to descend with this weather outlook:

“In the clouds with snow early… Winds S shifting W at 4-55mph increasing to 55-75 mph w/ gusts up to 90”

We had a couple 70mph gusts just as we were leaving…

The winds were manageable for most, but the visibility was about 40 feet at best. Staying on the trail from the summit to Split Rock was quite challenging and a few corrections with compass bearings brought us to Split Rock. From there we nailed the bearing to the Alpine Gardens Trail and made it all the way to Lion’s Head before encountering our first “up” traffic of the day. A Saturday at the end of a holiday week is sure to see many parties on the mountain and today was no exception.

Climbing down through “the steeps” of the Winter Lion’s Head Route we encountered parties of various experience, from guided groups who were moving efficiently to those realizing they had bit off a bit much we did our best to descend without impeding on their progress. Inevitably we hit a couple bottle necks, especially at the lowest technical portion, jokingly referred to in the local guiding community as “The Hillary Step”. This portion of trail, while no steeper than 45 degrees, can challenge people not familiar with moving in steep terrain with crampons and ice axe. I’ve seen groups paused on this .1 mile stretch of “trail” for the better part of an hour while new climbers cautiously negotiate 50 feet of climbing with limited experience.

Our group of 10 pretty much split in 2 with half of us down climbing the step with coaching & spotting by Justin while the other half went down a steeper alternative after receiving instruction on the esoteric skill of “arm wrap rappelling”.

Our strategy worked and we cleared the up going crowds without losing to much time. Two hours later we were back at EMS North Conway turning in gear with many sharing contact info to trade photos & video they had taken during the two day adventure.

A day later, after spending a day with some returning clients out climbing on Willey’s slide today (post tomorrow), I find myself reflecting about what a cool opportunity this is for aspiring new climbers and just those who want to try some thing new. To sleep on the summit of the highest peak in the Northeast, to learn about what makes this mountain so intense, to form a common bond with strangers though such a challenge… well it’s something I think should be on everyone’s bucket list.

If you’d like to see a bit of video about this opportunity here ya go!

We’ve only got a few spots left in the last trip of the season (April 9-10). If this sounds like something you would like to experience you can learn more (and book) right here.

Willey’s Slide trip report tomorrow… thanks for reading!

See you in the mountains,

NEAlpineStart

 

 

 

 

AIARE 2 Avalanche Course

Yesterday concluded our first AIARE 2 Avalanche Course of the season. Despite less than optimal field conditions the course was super productive in large part to the considerable amount of experience brought to the classroom discussions by the varied participants. We were fortunate to have 8000m veteran expeditionary leader Phil Crampton, owner and operator of Altitude Junkies, in attendance.

Phil’s resume of high altitude peaks is amazing and his personal experiences with massive Himalayan avalanches and vibrant story telling ability led to more than one topic derailment. These vivid first hand accounts were more than welcome however for both their educational real-life value and entertainment.

We also had Jerry Isaak, Chair Associate Professor of Expeditionary Studies at the University of Plattsburgh. He has worked as an expedition leader and guide in Canada, the USA, Morocco, Scotland, Austria and the Arctic. Personal climbing and skiing expeditions include journeys in Kenya, Nepal and throughout North America. He was here to observe the course as part of the requirements of becoming an AIARE Course Leader, but he did much more than observe. Throughout both classroom and field session Jerry took advantage of opportunities to share his extensive knowledge and experience and all of his contributions were greatly valued.

A graduate of Jerry’s program, a local professional sailboat racer turned back-country skier/mountaineer, and an EMS Climbing Guide/Electrician/EMT rounded out our class by staying fully engaged and generating thoughtful questions throughout.

EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
Pretty shallow snow pack at the top of the Kancamagus Highway but it served its purpose for Full Profile Demo/Practice
EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
Backside of Wildcat provided over 2 meters of snow for a round of Test Profiles and small & large column tests. We practiced Tilt Tests, Compression Tests, Extended Column Tests, Propagation Saw Tests, and a Rutschblock
EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
The results of our investigation
EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
Skinning up below Lunch Rocks
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Boot-packing up towards Sluice
EMS Schools AIARE Avalanche Course
Jeremy charging with some fractures/crowns that filled in a bit in the Lip area
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Our high point to the left of the mouth of Right Gully. From here we traversed into The Sluice for some decent turns.

There is a lot of information to cover in an AIARE 2 Course. Anyone that thinks an AIARE 1 is information overload will be amazed when they attend an AIARE 2. We managed it fairly well and for the most part stayed out of the weeds. Feedback at the end of the day yesterday seemed consistent that everyone had acquired the skills needed to become an quality avalanche, snow, and weather observer. All that was needed now was practice.

See you in the mountains.

-NEAlpineStart

 

 

Champney Fall Ice Climbing 2/9/16

Yesterday I had the opportunity to re-visit an area I haven’t been to in quite a few years. Champney Falls, (Pg 138, An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England, 3rd Edition), a beautiful if not somewhat overly crowded top-rope area at times. On a Tuesday, after a busy IceFest weekend, we found some solitude on the mellow walk in while breaking trail in a few inches for very light powder that fell the night before.

EMS Climbing School
Quiet 40 minute walk in
EMS Climbing School
EMS Store Employees from New York, Connecticut, and Massachusetts.
EMS Climbing School
Falls are in great shape with the 3+ line to the right of the falls ripe for some climbing
EMS Climbing School
A fun lead to set up our ropes
EMS Climbing School
Still had the place to ourselves for a few more minutes
EMS Climbing School
Thanks for the pics Mark!
EMS Climbing School
Gerald shakes it out while demoing a pair of Petzl Nomics
EMS Climbing School
Alan tries out the Petzl Quarks
EMS Climbing School
Alan almost topping out
EMS Climbing School
iPhone Panaroma

This was just the first day of a 2 day regional Eastern Mountain Sports training involving about 40 EMS store employees from over a dozen stores, organized in collaboration with EMS Schools and Dave Karl of Petzl/Sky Ambitions. More than just an “ice climbing lesson” discussions throughout the day were focused on what products were best for what customer. From crampons to helmets, experienced EMS Schools Guides shared their opinions on the best climbing equipment EMS sells in an effort to continue the tradition of having some of the most knowledgable and authentic outdoor retails sales staff in the country.

While I’m not joining the effort today I’m working on the final touches of my talk tonight at Salt Pump Climbing Co. in Scarborough, Maine. If you’re in the area tonight come on down if interested in “Avalanche Awareness for the Northeast Climber“.

Thanks for reading,

See you in the mountains,

-NEAlpineStart

 

Avalanche Awareness/Mountain Skillz Day (2/7/16)

A couple weeks ago I had Suzanne in my most memorable AIARE 1 Avalanche Course to date. She had just entered the floor of the ravine with my co-instructor Mike when we witnessed a climber triggered avalanche that caught 5 people and injured two. As a doctor she was quick to volunteer to help US Forest Service Snow Rangers evacuate one of the victims.

This incident prevented her, and most of the class, from being able to make snow-pack observations and she was keen to return to the ravine for some more experiential learning. Yesterday she returned and this time she brought her energetic 20 year old son Jabus and friend and long time NH climber David to join her in the experience.

Since ski conditions were quite abysmal we opted for mountaineering boots & crampons and brought a little technical gear along to deal with the hard & fast sliding surfaces that make up most of Tuckerman Ravine right now. After a trip planning session we made our way up into the bowl and headed up into Left Gully to investigate some of the wind slab that was mentioned in the morning’s avalanche bulletin.

EMS Climbing School
Making our way up into Left Gully

The climbing conditions were quite firm, and with caution & focus we reached the base of Left of Left (ice climb). After a short break we traversed right into the gully proper and I moved out onto a moderate sized slab that had formed from cross-loading over the last two days while everyone else spotted me. Hand shear tests along the way broke with moderate force and were not very planar so I moved to where the slab felt a little deeper and dug a quick pit.

Finding about 15cms of Pencil hard slab over 15cms of 1-Finger snow, sitting on top of Knife hard concrete we carried out 3 quick sets of tests.

Two Shovel Tilt Tests, one which was “positive” and one that was “inconclusive” at the 15cm interface. For a quick description of the Shovel Tilt Test check out this video from the Utah Avalanche Center:

Two Compression Tests:

CT11, Q2 RP @ 30cm down (interface of 1F & K concrete)

CT11, Q3 BRK @ 30cm down (interface of 1F & K concrete)

Wanna watch some more YouTube on snow pack tests? Here’s one on the Compression Test:


While these failures were on the eye brow raising end of loading steps, the “shear quality” or “fracture character” was not very alarming. None-the-less we decided to carry out an Extended Column Test to increase our confidence in our findings.

Results: ECTX (No fractures are initiated in the 30 standard loading steps)

Before you ask here’s a pretty good video of the Extended Column Test:


Before descending I grabbed a quick shot looking up the gully…

EMS Climbing School
Theodolite iPhone App

And down the gully…

EMS Climbing School
I love this app

We descended to Hermit Lake and removed our crampons for a faster hike down to Pinkham Notch.

DCIM100GOPRO
Clearing skies as we get ready to leave

Back at the pack room we debriefed our trip into the alpine and parted ways. It was a pleasure to spend this time in the mountains with Suzanne, Jabus, and David and I’m looking forward to our next trip together.

A quick disclaimer regarding these YouTube videos I’ve posted. These should serve one of two purposes:

  1. Inspire you to take a course to really learn how to perform and interpret these tests.
  2. Refresh what you’ve learned from a formal course

Using YouTube videos to build your base knowledge could lead to… less than ideal results. But they are great for refreshing those skills!

Thanks for reading,

See you in the mountains,

NEAlpineStart