Memorial Day Week = Best Deals on Climbing, Skiing, and Hiking Gear this Week!

May 21, 2018 Gear Reviews

Most of my friends know I am a total gear junkie! It goes with the territory for an online gear tester. I subscribe to almost all the online retailers and manufacturers I like so I can stay informed over both exciting new gear releases and the best times to shop. Turns out Memorial Day week is right up there with Black Friday and Cyber Monday when it comes to getting the best new gear at the best price! Here’s a sampling of what I consider the biggest deals this week along with a few specific favorites I’ve personally reviewed and highly endorse!

Backcountry

25% off all Black Diamond Climbing Gear!

A great time to pick up some Black Diamond C4’s or Ultralights which I review and compare here!

25% off all Petzl Climbing Gear!

Lowest prices I’ve seen for both the Petzl GriGri+, the Petzl Sitta Harness and Petzl Sirocco Helmet! My in-depth reviews for each of these are here, here, and here.

25% off all Arcteryx Clothing & Gear!

You can actually get 30% off the Arc’teryx Acrux SL Approach Shoes when you click the “Apply Coupon” on the page. You’ll see in the cart the price drop to $119!

Moosejaw

You can also get 30% off Arc’teryx here with code “SUNKISSED”! The Arcteryx Men’s Atom LT Hoody might not be for this season but it is one of my favorite!

Up to 30% off Patagonia!

A great deal on the awesome Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket that I reviewed here!

Bentgate Mountaineering

Bentgate Mountaineering has some good deals and every climber should own a Pink Tricam! In fact I will interrupt this retail post to share the amazing “Ode to the Pink Tricam” courtesy of the Pink Tri-Cam Fan Page!

Ode to a Pink Tricam

Oh Pink’s the one I love to place
when I’m alone way up in space
on some exposed and airy face.

They sink where other gear won’t go.
When all you’ve got is manky pro,
This tricam saves your butt from woe.

But it’s often hard to get them out;
They make your second moan and shout
And wave his nut tool ’round about

But that’s why you’re the one on lead
Your problems are a different breed
As long as someone does the deed…

“Oh quit your whimpering,” you rumble,
“And get it out or there’ll be trouble”
“Get to work now, on the double!”

Although it sometimes takes a while,
They do come out with vim and guile,
(or chiselling and curses vile.)

Pink will do what all the rest.
Won’t do when they’re put to the test.
Oh pink tricams are just the best!

— Charles “Pinky” Danforth

Eastern Mountain Sports

EMS is currently running their every popular “Upgrade Your Gear” sale where you can find deals up to 50% off retail. Members (which it is free to join) can get 20% off already deeply discounted clearance items using promo code “UYG”. We are talking UPF synthetic t-shirts around $10 and 800 fill down jackets around $80! Good deals if they have your size available!

REI

Of course REI is going big this week with their Anniversary Sale! 50% off the Kelty Circuit tents is quite appealing!

This week is a great time to go through your outdoor gear and fill out your kit with anything missing or upgrade anything to the latest and greatest! Deep outdoor gear discounts usually don’t come back around until we are preparing for our winter months (Black Friday-Cyber Monday) so plan ahead and save some $ by getting your summer gear now!

While out shopping these deals please don’t forget the real reason for this holiday! Our family uses the long weekend to visit historic landmarks, most recently a WWII installation on the Maine seacoast, and have daily conversations with our oldest child about what it means to remember those who have made the ultimate sacrifice to our country. We also attend our local parade and wreath laying ceremony. We are only able to enjoy our freedoms because of the sacrifices made then and now. Never forget.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links above support the content created here at no additional cost to you! Thank you!

Gear Review: Furnace Industries Kronos Ice Axes

May 12, 2018 Climbing Gear Reviews, Gear Reviews

I first heard about the Furnace Industries Kronos Ice Axes through a review posted on a fellow gear reviewer’s blog. Technical ice axes made out of wood? The concept was definitely intriguing and I was pretty excited to check a pair out. Unfortunately these did not work for me. My experience with them did not match what other online reviewers have reported, and that’s ok. Reviews after all are largely based on opinions. Here’s how I tested them:

About a dozen days of ice climbing in the White Mountains on grade 3 & 4 waterfall ice. Routes like Thresher, Unicorn, Pegasus, Standard Route, Chia, Dracula, Hitchcock, and The Cleft. I loaned them out to a few fellow guides who collectively put another half dozen days on them. Their opinions largely echoed the ones I had developed and will share here.

Furnace Industries Kronos Ice Axe Review- photo by Peter Brandon

First, the manufacturer info:

The KRONOS® is the world’s first ‘T’ rated, CE certified technical ice climbing tool made from organic material.

Technical Specifications

Weight: 1 lb 7.8 oz (675 g)
Size: One Size
Length: 19 in (48.26 cm)
Material: Densified Beech Laminate / Hardened Tool Steel

Other Features

Axe comes with a hand finished removable and replaceable Type B Furnace Industries Ice pick
Type T Pick sold separately available HERE
Replacement Type B Picks available HERE
A softer swing as the wood absorbs shock of the pick strike offering increased sensitivity at all temperatures
Wood handle offers enhanced grip and thermal insulation
Hand finished handle offers multiple grip options
The KRONOS Ice Tool has a Type T shaft

The Swing

One of the reported advantages of the wooden construction is the ability for the shaft to dampen vibration with each strike which could have the benefit of reducing arm and hand fatigue. This dampening effect was not as noticeable as it is when swinging carbon fiber tools like the Black Diamond Cobras or Grivel Carbon Tech Machines. The weight of the tool (1 lb, 8 oz) is 3-4 ounces heavier than most similar tools. That extra weight was felt by more than one tester to be a bit on the heavy side. The bulk of the weight feels like it is around mid-shaft which also felt less ideal for easy sticks.

My opinion here is likely effected by two decades of climbing on tools like the Petzl Quarks and Cassin X-Dreams where most of the weight feels closer to the head of the axe allowing for a bit of a “wrist flick” type placement rather than the kind of “elbow drop” type swing this design seems to encourage. One tester thought attaching some head weights might help better balance the tool but at an already comparatively heavy weight I think it would be better if they could move some of this mass higher on the tool somehow.

All in all while seeking fresh sticks in virgin ice a few of our testers felt the pick angle would cause occasional “bounce out” failed sticks and the heavier weight would contribute to fatigue. For hooking pegged out routes and dry-tooling the tool performed quite well, though felt a little on the heavy side for that to be the primary benefit of the tool.

Durability/Thermal Effeciency

While I’ve seen claims of great durability come from a few sources this is the other place where these really fell short for me. During our local Ice Fest I got first hand reports of a demo pair breaking and then my sample was damaged while another guide was taking them for a test drive. While still fully functional the two spots here where the laminated wood broke leave me concerned for long term durability. To be fair that upper trigger rest is a vulnerable spot on many tools.

In the past I’ve broken the removable trigger rest on the Petzl Quarks (and shortly after just always removed that piece from the Quark). The picks however have held up great for the amount of use they have seen. The hardened tool steel used here is probably the best thing about these tools. I’ve only tuned them twice and they hold a tune longer than most other picks I’m familiar with!

There is a bit of thermal advantage to using wooden ice axes (I have really warm hands so this benefit probably doesn’t get the credit it should). If you suffer from cold hands ice climbing this change in material may be of a greater benefit.

Summary

Without question these are hand-crafted with passion and are a solid accomplishment in engineering, but in my opinion they still need to be refined to cross from novelty conversation item to competitive and practical technical ice axe. I would encourage you to try them though! Other reviewers and better ice climbers than I have sung praises for them so this could definitely be a case of “not right for me but could be right for you”. I’d encourage you to grab a pair at your local Ice Fest and see for yourself. If a Kronos 2.0 arrives I’ll be eager to take another look!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

A media sample was provided for the purpose of this review and has been returned to the manufacturer. All opinions expressed are my own. Affiliate links help support this blog.

Climbing Cams Comparison Review (and Giveaway!)

May 7, 2018 Climbing Gear Reviews, Gear Reviews, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing protection

This post originally published in Fall 2016. In Spring of 2017 I added a set of Black Diamond Ultralights to my kit and now with a year of testing it was time to update my findings. New contest for a free cam as well!

For the last two decades Black Diamond Camalots have been a mainstay of my rack. When the new C4’s came out in 2005 I upgraded my whole rack and saved over a pound in the process. While I’d been aware of the DMM Dragon Cams for a few years it wasn’t until I needed to replace a few well loved cams on my rack that I decided to give them a try. Note that this original review compares the previous version of the Dragons. The DMM Dragon 2’s are now available and have slightly wider cam lobes (more contact) and a textured thumb press for better grip.

C4’s vs DMM Dragon Cams

I picked up the 2, 3, 4, and 5, which is equivalent to the Black Diamond C4 .75, 1, 2, and 3.

Since the numbers the manufacturers assigned for the sizes do not correlate well we will be happier if we refer to them by color (which thankfully correlates). So I picked up the green, red, yellow, and blue size.

While they felt light in hand manufacturer specs and my home scale confirmed they are almost identical in weight to the Black Diamond C4’s. A full set of each weighs within one ounce of the other, with the Dragons coming in a hair lighter. When you consider the amount of quick-draws you could reduce from your kit while using the DMM Dragons (because of the built in extendable sling) the DMM Dragons are definitely a lighter option than a set of the Black Diamond C4’s.

However investing in the Black Diamond Ultralights one would save about 8 ounces, half a pound, over either the DMM Dragons or the Black Diamond C4’s for a full rack. That weight savings comes at considerable cost, about $200 more for a full rack. The weight savings are noticeable throughout the size range but the largest gains are made in the biggest sizes.

When comparing weight savings we have to take a look at probably the most noticeable feature of the DMM Dragons, the inclusion of an extendable dyneema sling.

DMM Dragon Cam Review — Expandable sling not extended

The advantages & disadvantages to this unique feature are a bit specific to the route & type of climbing you predominantly do, but lets take a look. First, you can gain 12-14cm of “free” extension on your placement without having to carry an extra quickdraw. How much weight can that save? Well 7-8 average quick-draws like the Petzl Djinns weigh close to 2 pounds, so that’s significant. On a straight up route where the gear is in-line this advantage is less pronounced as you’ll be clipping the sling un-extended, just like the sling on a C4. On a wandering line or alpine route this feature could probably save you a few draws and slings further reducing total pack weight.

There are a few considerations with this design. First, the “thumb loop” found on the Black Diamond C4’s is considered to be one of the easiest to manipulate when pumped or trying to surgically get the best possible placement in a weird situation. Personally I feel the thump press on the DMM Dragons is plenty sufficient to keep control of the cam while making difficult placements (and has since be improved with the DMM Dragon 2’s). The thumb loop does provide a higher clip point on the protection, which should only be used for aid climbing applications, so this point is quite obscure for non-aid climbing applications. The last concern is the more complex cleaning process for the second. If the sling is extended it can be tricky to re-rack the cam one handed without it hanging low off the harness. With a little practice it can be done, but it is definitely not as easy as re-racking an un-extended sling.

As for holding power there has been anecdotal comments since they were released in 2010 that the slightly thinner surface area might be a concern in softer rock (sandstone). I have not seen any evidence of DMM Dragons failing in softer sandstone conditions when a thicker cam head may have held, so I think that theory can be debunked at this point. (Update the newer DMM Dragon 2’s have increased their cam head by 1.5 – 2 mm in size).

Black Diamond Ultralights

As mentioned above I picked up a set of Black Diamond Ultralights during Spring of 2017 and now have one full year climbing on them. I guided over 40 days of rock in the East with them and took them on a two week trip to the Cascades. They are holding up extremely well for the amount of use they see and have become my most reached for set whether I’m heading to the local crag to guide or off on a Cascades climbing trip.

Black Diamond Ultralight Cam Review — Still looking great after a full year of guiding and trips!

I’m hoping the above spreadsheet is helpful for some when deciding if the additional weight savings is worth the additional moo-lah. For some it will be a resounding yes, and others will be happier with the flexibility of the DMM Dragons (especially with the improvement made to the DMM Dragon 2’s), or the time-tested standby of the C4’s (especially if also aid climbing).

Where to Buy

First shop local! You can find most of these items at the following retailers in Mount Washington Valley!

International Mountain Equipment

Ragged Mountain Equipment

Eastern Mountain Sports, North Conway

You can also find them online at the following merchants:

Backcountry has all Black Diamond Cams 10% OFF!

You can also find them at Bentgate, EMS, Moosejaw, Mountain Gear, and REI!

Contest/Giveaway

I’m giving away one DMM Dragon Size 5 (equivalent to a Black Diamond #3), a $70 value!

To enter click the link HERE!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: David Lottmann bought all the items referred to in this review with his own money. This post contains affiliate links.

How to: Survive Bug Biting Season (and Giveaway)

April 30, 2018 Clothing Reviews, hiking, Tech Tips

Spring in the White Mountains is here! After a long snowy winter many climbers and hikers are chomping at the chance to get on some dry rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, and trail running. Unfortunately in a couple more weeks many insects will be chomping at the chance to chomp on us! Get your bug defense program up and running before “Black Fly Season” gets underway!

Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody Review — Black flies try to fly away with Tom while rock climbing in the White Mountains. How many can you count?

In this post I’d like to share some time tested strategies to keep the dreaded “bug season” from keeping you from enjoying what it is you do in the mountains. To combat these little buggers we will use a four-pronged approach! Clothing, Repellent, Timing, Location.

Clothing

The first line of defense should be clothing. Everyone knows long-sleeves and pants are preferable for bug protection but they seem so hot when the temperature and humidity is high right? Some long-sleeve options actually feel cooler than going shirtless! Here’s my current favorite tops when dealing with an onslaught of bloodthirsty insects and warm temps!

Patagonia Sunshade Technical Hooded Shirt

Detailed Review HERE Buy direct from: Patagonia Backcountry Moosejaw

The author wears his Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody on a summer rock climb of Cannon Cliff, New Hampshire

Black Diamond Alpine Start Hooded Jacket Detailed Review HERE Moosejaw

These two pieces are super breathable and basically come with me on every adventure from April to September! For some lightweight breathable hiking and climbing pants check out the ExOfficio BugsAway Sol Cool Ampario Pants.

Repellant

We will look at two layers of repellant. One for your clothing/gear and one for your skin. Without question the most effective insect repellent is permethrin.

bug protection permethrin — Permethrin for Clothing, Gear, & Tents- buy on Amazon

I’ve used this for over two decades and its effectiveness was proven time and time again from jungle warfare training outside of Iquitos, Peru to the northern jungle of Okinawa, Japan. Some clothes like the ExOfficio BugsAway Ventana Jacket and the Royal Robbins Bug Barrier Traveler Pants come pre-treated with permethrin for convenience. You can also just buy a bottle of it to treat the clothing your already own. I treat a couple pairs of climbing pants every Spring and my approach shoes and haven’t had a tick attach to me in years!

DEET

Between wearing the proper clothing and treating it with Permethrin I rarely need to apply DEET to stay bite free but I do carry it as insurance during the worst feeding frenzies. A small application behind the ears and back of the neck can make leading a rock climb much more bare-able when those alpine gnats come out. Since I use it sparingly I tend to only pack the smallest of bottles like this great .5 ounce one from Sawyer. There are lots of size options for both spray and time-released lotions on Amazon.

Timing/Location

Finally timing and location can help avoid the little nasties. Mosquitoes are most active at dawn and dusk so you could plan to be inside during those times. If you only have time to climb around dusk you could pick crags with consistent breezes. Some of my favorite destinations during the peak feeding season are Square Ledge in Pinkham Notch, Profile Cliff in Franconia Notch, Table Mountain off of Bear Notch Rd., and higher elevation stuff like Huntington Ravine (beware of those alpine gnats though). Avoid the low lying swampy areas during peak feeding times.

Pawtuckaway State Park, Stonehouse Pond, Longstack, lower Shell Pond, and even the North End of Cathedral Ledge can all be particularly nasty just before dusk during the peak feeding season. If you are walking through fields or tall grass on your hike out just assume you’ll pick up a few ticks and do a quick check at the car. I once skipped a tick check before driving home from a hike in Madison, NH and discovered 7 ticks crawling up my bare legs while driving (I wasn’t wearing my treated hiking shoes that day or wearing any repellent).

Shop Local

You can pick up most of the DEET and Permethrin products I suggested and support local businesses while in the White Mountains at these great shops!

International Mountain Equipment, North Conway

Ragged Mountain Equipment, Bartlett

Eastern Mountain Sports, North Conway

LL Bean, North Conway

Summary & Giveaway

Southern New England is already seeing the tick and mosquitoes appear which means we only have a week or two in the White Mountains before bug biting season starts for us. Now is the time to shore up your insect defense plan! To get your started you can enter to win a 3 oz bottle of Sawyer Premium Maxi DEET Insect Repellant. You can enter multiple ways through this link below!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Sawyer Premium Maxi DEET Insect Repellant

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links help support this blog

Gear Review: Most Rugged iPhone X Cases for Extreme Sports

April 6, 2018 Electronic Reviews, Gear Reviews iphone cases, iphone X cases, most rugged iphone cases

There are already lots of reviews out there claiming which iPhone cases, out of literally hundreds, are the most protective. You will find models on some of those lists whose biggest “plus” are that it comes in 8 different colors with popping eye-catching patterns. I don’t need that. I need a case that can protect my investment in the most extreme weather conditions on the planet. I also don’t want a case that makes carrying my phone outside of my profession of mountain guiding awkward.

Most Rugged iPhone X Cases- photo by Jared Heath

To that end I reached out to argue-ably the four biggest companies in iPhone case construction and asked for their most rugged model case to be submitted for review. Some manufacturers provided more than one model as they had models that would appeal to different end-users. After a full winter of back-country skiing, ice climbing, and mountaineering on one of the most inhospitable mountains in the world, I’m ready to share my opinions of these models, starting with my personal “Best in Class”. Full reviews for each model will post over the next few weeks and be linked here.

Best In Class: ROKFORM Fuzion Pro iPhone X Case-> (Review)

Best Waterproof Model: CATALYST Waterproof iPhone X Case (review coming soon)

Best for Impact Protection: PELICAN Shield iPhone X Case (review coming soon)

Likely* Best for Outdoor Photography: HITCASE Pro (not available yet, ships in May)

ROKFORM Fuzion Pro

Buy from Rokform

Buy from Amazon

One of my favorite of the cases I tested was the ROKFORM Fuzion Pro Case. It is the only case in the line-up made with carbon fiber but the design of this case far exceeds the material used in its construction. Despite being a very modular case installation was really easy. After pushing the phone into the rubberized housing an aircraft aluminum exo-skeleton backed with carbon fiber easily snaps over the housing to secure the phone.

Before assembly you must select which insert you want to use.

The TwistLock is designed to secure your phone with a bombproof connection to various bike, motorcycle, and car mounts. This is the best way to secure your phone if you will be bombing down single track mountain bike trails, racing Motocross, or even doing a bit of 4×4 off roading in that beat up Jeep Wrangler of yours!

What really sets this model, and company for that matter apart, is the other type of mount they use. The magnetic lock has been a bit of a game changer for me. At first I just liked using the Super Grip Vent Mount in our vehicle. I have gone through quite a few “universal” window mounted phone holders over the years and have had issues with almost all of them. They typically break after a year or two and they create blind spots in your field of view. This little vent mount works flawlessly and keeps my phone where I want it without any blind spots in the front window. It also packs well so is perfect for those who often drive rental cars!

What I didn’t realize was how many other places having a magnetic phone case added convenience. When I head into the kitchen to start breakfast I just stick my phone right onto the refrigerator. I listen to the latest Podcast while getting the kiddos packed for school and when it’s time to grab the car keys and rush out the door there’s no searching for my phone.

Even while I’m typing this my phone is secured to the edge of my computer desk and not lost in the slightly chaotic mess of things I know I will organize and read soon!

Buy from Rokform

Buy from Amazon

Drop/Water Protection

As far as true protection, the ROKFORM Fuzion Pro exceeds Military Drop Test Standard MIL-STD 801G-516.6 (basically can survive multiple falls from 2 meters (6.6 feet). Only two other models in the test had higher ratings. The case works with Rokforms’ own high-end screen protector or any other third party protector.

The case is not waterproof, but the iPhone X features native IP67 Water Resistance. What that means is it can withstand a quick dunk in up to three feet of water. This level of water-resistance is enough for non-water sports and allows this case to have virtually zero impact on sound quality both from the iPhone speakers and to a greater extent while talking to someone on speakerphone. Most fully encased waterproof cases make the caller sound like they are in a tin-can when using their speaker phone (it drives my wife nuts!). If you do need 100% waterproof-ness check out the CATALYST Waterproof iPhone X Case and the Pelican Marine Cases, both of which I will submit detailed reviews on soon!

The only thing I could think to improve was the lack of a lanyard. However after a quick call to the company to confirm this feature was missing I was guided to the fact that there is a lanyard attachment point on the aluminum housing that works with most third party lanyards, and of course Rokform’s own lanyard! So not much I can suggest changing here… this is an awesome case!

Summary

The ROKFORM Fuzion Pro is a standout in the category of rugged outdoor iPhone X cases. While it doesn’t come in sparkly glitter colors it really is a well engineered blend of materials and design. With the TwistLock option for “must not disconnect” extreme sports and the MagneticLock for everyday convenience this is definitely one of the best all-around cases I tested.

Buy from Rokform

Buy from Amazon

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Affiliate links help support this content.

Gear Review- UnTapped: All Natural Athletic Fuel

March 24, 2018 Gear Reviews, Misc Reviews

It’s New Hampshire Maple Weekend which is a perfect time for me to share a company I discovered during Ice Fest that makes all natural athletic fuel in a few different varieties. UnTapped started in late 2013 with a desire to share only of natures best energy boosters… pure maple syrup. I’ll be honest and state I thought maple syrup was just basically sugar and didn’t understand how it could offer more than just a quick sugar boost. On Untapped’s website the benefits are made clear:

• Maple syrup is low glycemic. Containing all natural sugars, maple syrup provides prolonged, sustained energy rather than offering a quick burst and subsequent crash like many adulterated sports sweeteners.

• Maple syrup contains Calcium, Riboflavin, Manganese, Zinc, and Potassium. These inherent components of maple syrup promote energy production, muscle recovery, and help prevent cramping.

• Maple syrup features more than fifty antioxidants. This cocktail of polyphenols have powerful free radical fighting properties. Foods with similar qualities include berries, green tea, red wine, and flaxseeds.

• Maple syrup contains amino acids, which help prevent muscle deterioration.

• Maple syrup is water soluble making it easy to digest, quick to absorb, and no more gut-rot from downing chemical-laden energy gels! Plus it’s a cinch to clean up; just rinse with water. Alternative sports gels are like tar to clean up.

All this means that UnTapped maple is an organic, single ingredient, one-stop-shop for your on-the-go needs.

UnTapped offers 5 varieties of energy boosting products, 3 different flavored “waffles” and 2 styles of syrup pouches. I received a box with a full assortment and have been testing them while ice climbing and back-country skiing for the last two months. I also enlisted my skeptical (and incredibly loving) wife, cultured and sushi aficionado 6-year old son, and “all I want to eat is Cheerios” two year old daughter. We are ready to share our experience…

Let’s start with the simplest of the products…

Maple UnTapped

Slopeside Syrup- Untapped Review — Slopeside Syrup- Maple UnTapped

Maple UnTapped is a .96 fl oz (28.4ml) pouch of 100% pure organic Vermont maple syrup, Grade “A” which is “amber/rich”. Essentially 100 calories in the one ounce pouch, 80 mg of Potassium, and 26 g of carbohydrates (all sugar). For daily vitamin allotments it provides 4% Calcium, 30% Riboflavin, 4% Zinc, 2% Thiamin, 2% Magnesium, and 60% Manganese.

As far as syrup goes I don’t have to much to add here. The taste is on par with the best local syrups we usually pick up this time of year. At about $1.85/pouch* it’s a bit more expensive than well known GU Energy Gel (at about a $1.25/pouch). That per pouch cost equates to $29.60/pint, against an average Vermont maple syrup pint price of $14.50.

While the convenience of the pouch may be nice, I have to say this is the one product from UnTapped I would probably avoid in lieu of just buying a pint, or quart, or gallon, of maple syrup and filling up a 5-ounce soft flask for a more affordable multi-shot option. While the first product in the line failed to win me over the rest of the offerings had much more to offer so read on to check them out!

Coffee UnTapped

Essentially the exact same thing as the previously mentioned “Maple UnTapped” but now organic coffee has been added bringing an average amount of 27 mg of sports enhancing caffeine. 27 mg, in case you are wondering, is about 1/3 the amount of caffeine in the average cup of coffee. I think this is a good amount for reaping the benefits of caffeine while exercising without experiencing the negative effects (dehydration, nervousness, shakes, etc).

While the addition of coffee obviously darkens the syrup beyond the typical spectrum the flavor is quite smooth. I was expecting a bitterness from organic black coffee but the two flavors are balanced and while I typically cut my coffee with a little cream or milk I found these to be quite tasty. What I am most surprised about here is how the pricing is the same as the un-altered Maple UnTapped. $1.85/pouch* is quite competitive when you compare it to other caffeine supplemented energy gels on the market (they average $2.08/pouch.

So Coffee UnTapped was a winner for me. A 100% pure and organic caffeine induced energy boosting product that tasted great at a cheaper price than the competitors. This one is worth trying!

Next up we look at some of the more “solid fuel” type offerings UnTapped has. Basically these pressed “waffles” based off the Dutch “Stroopwaffle“. As before I’ll start with the one that didn’t get a lot of rave reviews.

UnTapped Maple Waffle

First, what’s in it?

That’s a decent amount of calories from a 1.1 oz snack, and I especially like the amount of healthy fats derived from the Palm Fruit Oil, healthy fats are my friend in the cold months, but this one came up a bit flat in the taste department. My six-year old made that classic wrinkled face during his taste-test then asked if he had to finish it, the wife claimed it had a lack of flavor, and the two-year old decided it would be better to smush it into a paste and treat it like Play-Doh rather than food. Luckily, the other two flavors fared a bit better!

The Coffee Waffle, while not a winner with the wife, past my taste test for “need calories now” while schlepping up a few steep snow & ice slopes this winter. UnTapped does not disclose how much caffeine is in this product and I’m assuming it’s hard to get an accurate measurement somewhere along the processing part.

The Raspberry Waffle however won Best-In-Class from the whole family. Organic Red Raspberries added the sweetness and character that the regular Maple Waffle seemed to lack. It also boasts an extra 20 calories of fat (I knew Black Bears liked Raspberries for a reason). At about $2/waffle** this is a solid contender in the field of energy bars.

Summary

This is a cool local company with a great idea and some solid offerings. All natural athletic fuel is pretty dope. While the more “simple” offerings like the straight up syrup and maple waffle left us a little uninspired the caffeinated syrup and Raspberry Waffles became daily favorites. I have just enough left of my sample packets to hopefully get me through my upcoming ski trip to Iceland where we will be putting in some serious vertical mileage. If you are in the market for some locally sourced healthy energy “gels” and snacks you should check this company out!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

* based on 20 packets / 1 carton pricing

** based on 16 waffles / 1 carton pricing

Disclaimer: UnTapped provided a sample for review. Some affiliate links above help support this blog at no cost to you! All opinions expressed our those of the author (and his immediate family).

Gear Review- Skida Headwear

March 7, 2018 Climbing Gear Reviews, Gear Reviews local products, made in vermont, skida headwear, winter hats, winter headwear

Our family has a soft spot for small production Made-in-America products. Especially when they are local New England based small businesses with inspiring stories and a just mission. This winter we’ve been able to test the Vermont based Skida’s line of head-wear and accessories and we are ready to share our thoughts!

Skida Headwear Review — While we had picked this pattern for our son it fit our daughter better and became her favorite hat this winter!

Story/Mission

You can read the full story about this ten-year old brand here, but if you’d like just the highlights here they are!

Started in 2008 when a high-school VT skier starting hand-making some hats
Demand grew quick with the founder’s mother running logistics
Brought on some local seamstresses who can work from home in northern VT
Created a program to donate head-wear to cancer patients undergoing Chemo.
Now located in Burlington, VT with a showroom and growing each year!

Products

Skida started with a few fun patterns of hats and has grown to impressive full line’s of men’s, women’s and kids hats, headbands, and neck-wear. Recently Skida added a line of Nepalese sourced Cashmere products after the founder traveled to Kathmandu and discovered the rich history of this textile production. You can read that full story here!

Other than a cool back-story and wide range of products Skida has done a great job creating an easy to navigate website allowing you to quickly filter by gender, kids, or even by print/pattern! Take a quick look here and you’ll likely find something you like.

Performance

Our family tested four products and all four rated high in terms of warmth and comfort. I wore the “Alpine Hat” for close to 30 days so far this winter while skiing and ice climbing all over New Hampshire. It’s poly-blend outer fabric is fully lined with a cozy mid-weight fleece. I found it perfect on really cold days on Mount Washington but a little on the warm side for super fast missions, which is why Skida makes a non-fleece lined Nordic line. I plan on picking a Nordic hat up as I think it will fit better under my climbing helmet… the “Alpine” line is just a smidge to thick under my helmet.

I also got to test the Skida Bandito, incidentally the first “Bandito” I have ever used! This piece goes on quick with a velcro closure on the back and provides fast face protection without having to take my climbing/ski helmet off. By tucking it into my outer shell jacket I could trap a lot of warmth to fight off wind chills while descending Mount Washington in negative temperatures.

My son uses the Skida Alpine Neckwarmer whenever we hit the slopes or he has his ESSC school ski program and loves the completely fleece lined interior. The fact that these are easily machine wash-able helps deal with the weekly 6 year old snot-fest (Sorry to be so graphic, 6-year old skiers have a lot of free flowing mucus).

My daughter, as I mentioned, loves her Kids Skida Alpine Hat. Originally intended for our son it just wouldn’t fit his 6 year old sized head and fit our two year old daughter quite well. I’d say the kids sizing runs a little on the small side so if your child has a slightly bigger head consider going with a S/M men’s (or women’s).

Summary

Quality head-wear hand-crafted in Vermont with patterns to suit the most whimsical or the most practical. My hunting friends should definitely look at the True Timber Camo line! We are stoked to have found the Skida brand and think you will be too!

Comment Below!

While I’m not affiliated with Skida if you do end up making a purchase let them know where you heard about them and comment below what pattern/model you picked! If you are already a Skida fan let me know in the comments below as well!

Gear Review- Patagonia Fitz Roy Down Parka

March 1, 2018October 24, 2018 Clothing Reviews, Gear Reviews belay jacket reviews, belay jackets, down jacket, down parka, ice climbing gear, mountaineering gear, patagonia, patagonia clothing

I’ve had three full winter seasons testing the lofty Patagonia Fitz Roy Down Parka and it has been a consistent performer in the category of down belay jackets. Let’s take an in-depth look at the good and the bad and determine if this is the right choice for you!

Patagonia Fitz Roy Parka Review — The author on the summit of Mt. Rainier- Photo by @cfphotography

Buy at Backcountry

Insulation/Warmth

It is important when comparing down jackets that you consider both the fill power of the down (generally 700+ is used in higher end pieces), and the actual amount of down used (generally varies from 2-8 ounces). The Patagonia Fitz Roy Parka is stuffed with 6.4 ounces of ethically sourced 800 fill goose down. This is a very generous amount of the heat-retaining-super-lightweight-and-compressible natural insulator! Similar priced models from other manufacturers often have 4-5 ounces of down (if you can even find out from them).

What this means is this “puffy” really is “puffy”. It feels like a big down sleeping bag that fits over all of my other layers (including soft-shell or hard-shell jackets). Baffled construction on the core and quilted construction on the arms keep this quality down where it is needed and eliminates “cold spots”.

But is it warm?

I’ve worn this now in ambient air temps down to -16°F (-26°C) with wind-chills between -30°F to -40°F below zero (-34°C to -40°C)! When worn over my typical winter mountaineering layers I’ve stayed toasty teaching avalanche courses, camping at 11,000 feet in the Cascades, and belaying partners on long pitches of technical ice climbing. It is without a doubt a toasty pound and a half part of my clothing system!

Weight/Compress-ability

At only one pound six ounces (about 620 grams) this is the lightest full winter belay jacket I’ve tested! It also packs down into a very small stuff sack to maximize the available space in your smaller ice & alpine climbing packs. I lost the original stuff sack that came with the jacket but upgraded (and downsized from the original) to this amazing Hyperlight Mountain Gear waterproof stuff sack!

Shell Fabric/Performance

Patagonia uses a really silky and thin Pertex Quantum® fabric with DWR (durable water repellent) finish to fend off moisture. This is a positive for making this puffy extremely light-weight, pack-able, and breath-able. However it also makes this piece most suitable for extreme cold conditions when liquid precipitation is pretty much out of the question. If the forecast calls for “mixed” or freezing rain I’d suggest reaching for a heavier less pack-able synthetic belay jacket (like the recently reviewed Outdoor Research Perch).

Basically don’t expect this shell material to resist much liquid water. I managed to soak mine in a dripping ice cave while ice climbing on an unseasonably warm day and it was clear this piece is better designed for arctic cold dry days and not warm/damp days. It did however regain full loft when dried that evening!

Fit/Comfort/Features

I went with a size large for my 180 pounds, 5′ 9″, 42 inch chest, 34 inch waist build and it fits great over my typical winter ice climbing/mountaineering/back-country ski clothing kits. The hood is the perfect size for fitting over my climbing/mountaineering helmet and a drawcord on the back pulls the sides back so you don’t feel like you are wearing horse blinders.

The elastic wrists have the right amount of tension, hand-warming pockets are properly sized and positioned a little higher to be harness friendly. A bottom hem draw-cord helps keep heat from escaping out below and the front zipper runs high enough into the collar/hood area that I can go into “full turtle mode” when it is really too cold to be outside.

Rounding out the features a small chest pocket keeps my phone & lip balm handy and a large stretchy internal pocket on the right side will keep your gloves or mittens warm and dry (and prevent them from blowing away) while you attend to what ever fine dexterity task crops up.

Summary

This is one of the best down belay jackets out there at a fair price, especially when considering the amount and quality of the down Patagonia used. While there are some durability concerns with a piece made with such silky then fabrics (especially considering all the sharp stuff ice climbers carry) my parka only has two pea sized holes in it after 2 seasons which were easily patched with my favorite field repair stuff, Tenacious Tape. If you are in the market for a lofty warm down belay jacket this one should be on your radar!

Shopping

You can also save some money buying one of these now as most retailers have them on sale as we quickly approach Spring however inventory is really low! Check out the lowest prices at the links below! I will re-post this next Fall when the new colors & inventory hits the market!

New colors and inventory have arrived!

Buy at Backcountry

The author reaching the summit of Rainier (14,410 elevation)- photo by Cait Bougault

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Gear Review- Avalanche Safety Gear Part 3: Avalanche Shovels

February 21, 2018November 12, 2018 Avalanche Gear Reviews, Gear Reviews avalanche education, avalanche gear, avalanche safety, avalanche shovels

For the third installment of this multi-post series on avalanche safety gear we take a look at the Ortovox line of avalanche shovels.

Ortovox Avalanche Shovel Comparison- photo by Alexandra Roberts

Part 1: Avalanche Transceivers (Beacons)

Part 2: Avalanche Probes

Part 3: Avalanche Shovels

Part 4: Avalanche Airbags (coming soon)

Like your beacon and probe you should put some thought into what you want out of your avalanche shovel and Ortovox has models that cover the full range of desires! In order to determine which model is right for you I will point out the key differences between models within the Ortovox line and highlight my favorites!

If you plan to carry a shovel and an ice axe consider the ingenuity of the Pro Alu III Shovel + Pocket Spike! Currently you can use “Take20November” at checkout to get 20% off!

I demonstrate this awesome feature in a short YouTube clip I did last year:

Ortovox Badger Shovel $49.95

Ortovox Badger Avalanche Shovel (1 lb 6 oz)

The lightest and most affordable option in the Ortovox line this shovel performs well but lacks some of the things I really like in avalanche shovels, i.e. telescoping shaft and optional “trench” mode. None-the-less for the price point this model features high end materials and efficient design and is an excellent choice for those who spend limited time in avalanche terrain or digging snow-shelters, pits, tent platforms, etc.

Ortovox Beast Avalanche Shovel $59.95

For $10 more and 3 ounces more weight the Ortovox Beast adds both a telescoping shaft and a rubber coated glove friendly grip that allows better power transfer and control when digging furiously for your partner. A solid mid-range choice but for $10 more the feature list grows considerably!

Ortovox Pro Alu III Avalanche Shovel $69.95

Ortovox Pru Alu III Avalanche Shovel (1 lb 12 oz)

The added flexibility of this lightweight and pack-able shovel has won me over as to this being my favorite shovel on the market, which led to a long form review here. The telescoping handle and rubberized “power grip” is nice but where this shovel shines is how it has an intuitive and quick to use “trenching mode” as well as pairing with the incredibly innovative Pocket Spike to provide an extra layer of “fall protection” on those ski tours where you didn’t think carrying an ice axe would be needed. I demonstrate this awesome feature in a short YouTube clip I did last year:

Ortovox Kodiak Avalanche Shovel $89.95

A behemoth in the category of avalanche shovels this model boasts a 3.1 liter blade with telescoping capability and a mitten friendly D-shaped handles. If you suffer from cold hands and ski or ride with mittens, or are a member of professional search and rescue, this is the model for you! It’s still my go-to when I am winter camping or doing heavy snow-pack analysis and less focused on counting the ounces in my pack. I posted a long form review of this 4 years ago and still love this model! I highlighted this model quite a few years ago in this YouTube clip:

Protip

Like avalanche transceivers (beacons, and probes, avalanche shovels require practice to become proficient with. Store your shovel in a dedicated avalanche tool pocket in a quality avalanche backpack and practice deploying it on a regular basis. Do not take for granted the seconds that can be lost when you are unfamiliar with your equipment!

Training

Consider upgrading your rescue skills with the all new 8 hour AIARE Avalanche Rescue Course! This is a fantastic addition in the field of avalanche education and something you should consider if you’ll be spending time in avalanche terrain in the future! If you haven’t taken an AIARE 1 course yet, or maybe it’s been awhile, it’s not to late to get in on a course this season! See what dates we have left here! (Use promo code “DavidNEM” when booking)!

Purchase

All of these models can be purchased directly from Backcountry.com here. A small percentage of your purchase will go to Northeast Alpine Start to support creating content like this. Thank you for your support!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Part 1: Avalanche Transceivers (Beacons)

Part 2: Avalanche Probes

Part 3: Avalanche Shovels

Part 4: Avalanche Airbags (coming soon)

Affiliate links above support this blog. Author is an Ortovox Team Athlete and so received any product mentioned at no cost.

Gear Review- Avalanche Safety Gear Part 2: Avalanche Probes

February 19, 2018 Avalanche Courses, Avalanche Gear Reviews, Backcountry Skiing, Gear Reviews avalanche education, avalanche gear, avalanche probes, avalanche safety

For the second part of a multi-post series on avalanche safety gear we will take a look at avalanche probes and answer some questions to help you pick the right model.

Part 1: Avalanche Transceivers (Beacons)

Part 2: Avalanche Probes

Part 3: Avalanche Shovels

Part 4: Avalanche Airbags (coming soon)

Ortovox Avalanche Probes Review — Avalanche Probe Reviews- photo by Cait Bourgault

An avalanche probe is so much more than just a rescue resource! In fact it is one of my most used tools to make snow-pack observations, both formal and informal.

For example, tracking average snow depth over the terrain helps me better understand the high degree of variability in our terrain. By “gently” probing I can feel for denser layers over weaker layers (possible slabs) and get a sense of how complex the snow-pack I am traveling over is, including the number and prevalence of melt-freeze crusts in our snow-pack, which often are quite relevant to assessing snow stability.

When taking the time to look more closely at the snow-pack via digging a snow-pit the probe helps me identify the depth of any questionable layers. Finally the probe must deploy quickly and reliably in the event of an avalanche accident and provide that critical piece of info, burial depth, once you get a “probe strike”. For all these reasons I would suggest you think critically about what probe you should carry, and below I will help you narrow the field to the model that is right for you.

Aluminum vs Carbon vs Steel

Aluminum probes are likely the most common out there. A solid balance between weight, durability, and affordability. Carbon probes are gaining popularity. Ounce counters will justify the higher cost to save a couple ounces. Steel probes are the choice of organized rescue teams around the world, trading extra weight for long-term durability.

*One experienced reader (@whats_thematterhorn) has pointed out that those who spend a lot of time in glaciated terrain might avoid carbon poles… frequent probing through glacier hard snow/ice to designate “safe areas” and assess snow bridges can lead to pre-mature wear or failure of a carbon probe. In addition a longer probe might be more beneficial in big mountain terrain (Alaska) than in our lower 48 BC terrain.

Length- 240 cm, 280 cm, 320 cm?

Avalanche probe length can vary, with the most common length for recreational users being 240 cm. Considering the average burial depth is 1.4 meters this gives us an extra meter in length over “average” to account for deeper burials. Longer probes do allow one to probe deeper without having to bend over but are best suited for professional rescue where weight/pack-ability isn’t at a premium. The extra length, unfortunately, is more for “recovery” rather than rescue as someone buried over 2 meters deep has a very low chance of survival.

Let’s look at some of the Ortovox models and who they would be best suited for…

Ortovox Alu 240 Avalanche Probe $39.95

A “budget” choice but one that really beats any other model at this price on the market. 5 cm depth markers, a high visibility first section combined with a visible 1 meter mark and quick lock system all make this a very fine option at a bargain price point.

Ortovox Alu 240 PFA Avalanche Probe $59.95

A significant upgrade in the Ortovox Aluminum line the 240 PFA model adds a faster assembly system, a strong and light steel tensioning system (instead of the thin rope used in the Alu 240), and a better top hand grip for precise control during a systematic probe search. This would be my best recommendation for the majority of recreationalists!

Ortovox Carbon 240 Superlight Avalanche Probe $89.95

Ortovox Carbon 240 Superlight Probe — Ortovox Carbon 240 Superlight Avalanche Probe- 185 grams (6.5 ounces)

The lightest probe in the Ortovox line this is the model of choice for those who like to shave ounces from their kit, yet it still has great durability and the quick lock assembly system as well as the “visual guide system” that is a feature of all Ortovox probes. If you like to streamline your kit this is the one to look at!

Ortovox Carbon 280+ PFA Avalanche Probe $99.95

Longer than the 240 cm models and extendable (can be extended with another probe) this model is the choice of mountain guides and rescue groups around the world. Light weight carbon with a high strength steel tension system and the rubberized top grip make this a solid choice for, ski patrol, rescue, and mountain professionals everywhere.

Ortovox Steel 320+ PFA Probe $109.95

Ortovox Steel 320+ PFA Avalanche Probe- 670 grams (1 lb 7.6 oz)

The biggest and most robust of the line-up, the high weight of this work-horse really lends itself to professional rescue and the back-country snowmobile crowd where an extra pound of weight will not be noticed.

Practice

No matter what probe you have it is imperative that you practice with it regularly. From my experience of teaching avalanche courses for over 10 years I can say that most people, even those who have owned a probe for a few seasons, have not practiced with them enough. How should you practice? Consider running “deployment” drills where you must remove your backpack, access your pack, and deploy your probe correctly, all under a stopwatch. Race your friends and touring partners. Make it a game. You will be surprised how much people can fumble and struggle with the locking mechanism on their probe. The bottom line is in an avalanche rescue every second counts and a lot of time can be lost if you are not efficient at deploying your probe. Take the time to get proficient!

Pro-tip

Don’t take your avalanche probe storage sack into the back-county. Leave it at home and use it for home-storage and travel. Taking it into the field slows your ability to deploy your probe quickly and they often get blown away and lost in the lightest of winds.

Summary

I hope you’ve found this post informative and educational. At the end of the day there are a ton of great probes on the market these days from quite a few different companies. I obviously love the Ortovox line and I think when you objectively compare features and get some hands-on time with any of these models you’ll feel the same way.

Training

Purchase

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Part 1: Avalanche Transceivers (Beacons)

Part 2: Avalanche Probes

Part 3: Avalanche Shovels

Part 4: Avalanche Airbags (coming soon)

Affiliate links above support this blog. Author is an Ortovox Team Athlete and so received any product mentioned at no cost.