The Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch are the two biggest additions to the growing market of Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs). Many of you might be wondering which device is the right one for you.

In this video, I will show the key differences between each device. This will help you make an informed decision on which device is best for you. This is not an in-depth review of either device. More in-depth reviews of each device will be linked below in the description as they are published. Below the video is a transcript with greater detail than what I had time to convey in the video. Feel free to skip to any section you would like more information on!

• COST

To start our comparison let’s look at retail cost. The manufacturer suggested retail price of the Petzl Neox is $149.95 USD ($€29 Euros) and the Edelrid Pinch is $119.95 USD (€99.95). The difference of $30 USD is not insignificant. The Petzl Neox must be paired with a locking carabiner to function. In contrast, the Edelrid Pinch can be used without a locking carabiner. For comparison the recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner is $18.95 USD.

• WEIGHT

Next let’s look at the difference in weight. The Petzl Neox claimed weight is 235 grams. The Edelrid Pinch claimed weight is 234 grams. That’s only 1 gram difference so even Steven right? Well not quite. You see the Edelrid Pinch is designed to be usable without a locking carabiner. It has a secure locking attachment point. You can connect it to any belay loop or master point that is a minimum of 10mm in width. I’ve seen some guides on social media adding a locking carabiner as a sort of “double” lock on the setup. While there isn’t really anything wrong with being “extra” safe, I haven’t seen any reason for concern. This is true when the device is installed properly without using an extra locking carabiner. So, for comparison reasons, the Edelrid Pinch is one locking carabiner lighter. This makes it lighter than a usable Petzl Neox. The recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner weighs 46 grams for comparison.

• SIZE

Size wise they are pretty similar. The Petzl Neox is about 4 ¼ inches (10.76 cm) long and 2 ½ inches (6.35 cm) wide and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The Edelrid Pinch is 5 ½ inches (14 cm) long and 2 ¾ inches (7 cm) and 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm) deep. The difference in dimensions is quite minimal. However, you could factor in the additional size of a locking carabiner for the Petzl Neox to function. This may not matter much from a pack-ability standpoint. We will discuss later how having the Edelrid Pinch connected directly to your harness belay loop might be more efficient. It could also be attached to the anchor master point during belays for added efficiency.

• ROPE SIZE

The Petzl Neox is approved to be used with single rated climbing ropes between 8.5 and 11 millimeters. The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used with single rated dynamic ropes between 8.5 and 10.5 millimeters and static ropes between 10 to 10.5 millimeters. I haven’t climbed on a single rated rope thicker than 10.5 millimeters in a couple of decades so I don’t think this difference is very notable. It is interesting that the usable threshold for static rope is mentioned to be smaller. I’m not sure exactly why that is. This answer probably is not very relevant to most potential users. Most static ropes likely fall within the 10 to 10.5 millimeter range.

• LEAD BELAY FUNCTION

There are some pretty noticeable differences when belaying a leader with the Edelrid Pinch versus the Petzl Neox.

First, the real stand out feature of the Petzl Neox is the smoothness of adding slack quickly to the system. The intuitiveness is also exceptional. The spinning wheel inside the housing simplifies keeping up with a quickly moving climber. This is true even when they make a big reach clip. With the Petzl Neox, it is less likely that a belayer will accidentally “short rope” a lead climber. It is also less likely that the device will unintentionally lock up while trying to add slack to the system.

Second, there is no need for a special hand position when feeding slack with the Petzl Neox. This means the device is easily mastered by anyone who can belay well with a standard tube style belay device.

Lead belaying with the Edelrid Pinch feels much more similar to belaying with a Petzl GriGri. Many seasoned climbers are quite familiar with this. The cam can engage when quickly paying out slack. Make sure to use care. The technical details and instructions illustrate a “quick slack” grip method. An advantage of the Edelrid Pinch is its versatility. You can perform the quick slack method whether you are right handed or left handed. This method takes a little practice to do well but isn’t hard to master with some time. The Petzl Neox essentially has a slightly faster learning curve in the hands of a new belayer.

Finally, one notable difference here is the Edelrid Pinch can be connected directly to your belay loop. You do not need a locking carabiner. This keeps the device about 4 inches (10 cm) to your body. This means you can pay out a little more rope with each arm motion. I need to spend more time belaying lead climbers with both of these devices. This will help me decide if this difference is truly noteworthy.

• DIRECT ANCHOR BELAY FUNCTION

Both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch can belay a second directly off an anchor. This applies in either a single pitch or multi-pitch setting. There are some differences between the two devices to discuss here.

First, taking slack in with the Petzl Neox is extremely easy thanks to the spinning wheel in the housing. When using a hand on both the load and belay line, the rope pulls through the device like a high efficiency pulley. There is very little noticeable friction. This is a blessing for anyone with a bit of elbow tendinitis. Also with the Petzl Neox rope diameter really doesn’t change the amount of effort pulling slack through the device requires.

The Edelrid Pinch feels quite similar in effort to pulling slack with a Petzl GriGri. Thinner ropes will pull easier than thicker ropes.

They cam almost instantly when presented with a load. This is true, for example, when a seconding climber falls. A brake hand must be properly on the rope to provide some resistance on the other side of the device. There have been some dramatic social media videos shared that how the Petzl Neox will not cam for quite some time in the event of a missing brake hand.

Perhaps the Edelrid Pinch will make some climbers feel a little more secure. It does seem to cam more quickly when a brake hand is absent. However, both devices clearly state in their instructions that a brake hand MUST be present. It must be in the correct position to provide resistance on the brake strand side of the device. Neither of these devices are considered “hands free” in any mode of use!

• FIXED POINT BELAY OF LEAD CLIMBER!

The Edelrid Pinch is approved to be used in a Fixed Point Belay orientation. This technique of belaying a leader offers advantages in certain situations. It is the first device I know of that the manufacturer actually approves for this use. I will likely experiment more with this option this winter while testing the Edelrid Pinch ice climbing.

• LOWERING DIRECTLY FROM ANCHOR

Both devices are capable of lowering smoothly directly from the anchor. Likely the biggest difference here is the Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” feature. This feature is very similar to what Petzl introduced when they released the Petzl GriGri+. By design, if the release lever is pulled too far when lowering, the cam will re-engage. This can happen when lowering from top-rope or directly from the anchor. To continue lowering, the user needs to release the handle back to the start position. Then, pull the handle back down to resume the lower. Alternatively, pull the handle harder to get past the “anti-panic” zone. The latter option is considered “advanced”.

While this “anti-panic” feature is probably good for less experience belayer it might be off-putting to more advanced users. Well Edelrid probably thought of that. They included a small screw. It can be inserted in the device to disable the anti-panic feature. I haven’t disabled the feature yet. I want a little more hands-on experience. This will help me better compare it to the anti-panic feature of the Petzl GriGri+ for a future video.

With either device follow the instructions and redirect your brake strand for a smooth and secure lower.

• IMPROVISED HAULING FUNCTION

Both devices function almost identical in a hauling set up. As I mentioned in my detailed video on the Petzl Neox, I initially thought the spinning wheel might add efficiency. I was referring to its use in an improvised haul. However, I later realized the wheel is locked when the device is under tension. Therefore, there is no advantage of hauling with a Petzl Neox over a Petzl GriGri or the Edelrid Pinch. They both function well as progress captures and reduce friction efficiency in the hauling system at about the same level. One last minute detail is the Edelrid Pinch can be attached directly to the anchor without a locking carabiner. This saves you about 4 inches (10 cm) of more efficiency. You have fewer resets in your improvised hauling system.

• SINGLE STRAND RAPPELLING (ABSEILING) FUNCTION

Both devices can be used for a single strand rappel. The big difference between the two is similar to the difference mentioned above in the lowering section. The Edelrid Pinch has an “anti-panic” function which is probably most noticeable during a rappel. If you plan to do a lot of rappelling on a single strand, you might want to disable the anti-panic feature. Consider doing this at some point with the Edelrid Pinch. I recommend keeping it engaged for a few rappels first. This will allow you to see which you would prefer more.

• ROPE ASCENSION

There is a notable difference in the use of these two devices when ascending a fixed rope. For the most part the Edelrid Pinch feels like a Petzl GriGri as a progress capture during rope ascension. The Petzl Neox makes it noticeably easier to pull rope through the device while standing in your leg loop. This is because the device is not loaded, unlike a haul system, and the wheel spins during that action. On a long rope climb, you will save a little energy with the Petzl Neox. However, exactly how much energy you save is debatable.

• SUMMARY

Now for the hard part… which device is best for you? The crowning achievement of the Petzl Neox is the device’s ability to efficiently pay out slack. It can also take in slack as if the rope is just traveling through a pulley. The Petzl Neox is extremely beginner friendly requiring no special hand techniques other than quality PBUS belay technique.

The Edelrid Pinch is kind of breaking the mold here being the first Assisted Braking Device that can attach to the anchor point autonomously. This is a very intriguing design choice. It can be backed up easily with a separate locking carabiner if that is desired. Its function is quite similar to the long-time standard Petzl GriGri. It has an anti-panic feature that the user can decide to disable. It also has a really competitive suggested retail price when compared to any other device in this category.

You are probably already considering these two devices. They are likely options if you are in the market for a new Assisted Braking Device. I hope this comparison video has been informative. It has shown you some of the differences, some which are significant and some which are subtle. If you enjoyed this video, please like, share, and subscribe. Your support helps me cover new climbing gear, clothing, and equipment. It will help you get out into the mountains for some adventure!

• Questions?

Let me know in the comments below and I will do my best to respond in a timely manner!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

A media sample of both the Petzl Neox and the Edelrid Pinch were provided to the author at no cost for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. When you make a purchase through one of those links the author earns a small commission at no additional cost to you! Thank you!