What’s in a Rescuer’s Pack Series- Part 3 Headlamps… plural!

Headlamps for Hiking and Search and Rescue
Photo credit to Corey David Photography, an active SAR team member.

Part 1- Physical Mirrored Compass

Part 2- Digital Map (and maybe a physical backup)

Part 3- Headlamps… plural!

Part 4- First Aid Kit & Training!

Part 5- Water and Water Treatment

Every gear list for recreational hiking includes “flashlight or headlamp”. For practicality in outdoor recreation you need hands-free illumination to perform simple tasks. These tasks include tying your boot laces or lighting a gas stove. For this reason, a headlamp is a better choice than a handheld flashlight. It is suitable for the outdoor adventurer and volunteer or professional search and rescue team member.

Things to look for in a quality mid-to-high end headlamp;

  1. Long lasting battery life– Many search and rescue missions start close to sunset. They often don’t conclude until close to sunrise. Rescuers spend a lot of time hiking in the dark. Look for a headlamp that has at least 20-40 hours of “burn time” on lower settings.
  2. Bright!– The woods at night under an overcast sky are dark. You will want a headlamp that has at least 500 lumens.
  3. Durable/Water Resistent- You should look for time trusted brand names and a minimum of IPX-4 rating for water resistance.
Headlamps for Hiking and Search and Rescue
Image from hypergear.com

My current SAR purpose headlamp is the Petzl IKO Core. This headlamp has 500 lumens with solid 100 meter throw. It comes with a rechargeable battery that provides 80 hours of burn time on the lowest setting. The pouch that comes with it doubles as a “lantern” bag when inside a tent. This is a very cool feature during planned or unplanned bivies. I hope to upgrade this to the Petzl Nao RL Headlamp. It has three times the lumens (1500). It also offers 160 meters of range!

A military saying that stayed with me is “One is none, two is one”. Inside my first aid kit, I carry a spare headlamp. It is useful if someone forgets their headlamp. It is also helpful if the batteries of your main headlamp die. The Petzl Bindi is an excellent choice as a backup headlamp.

Headlamps for Hiking and Search and Rescue
Photo credit to Corey David Photography, an active SAR team member.

Tips for Headlamp Use

Regardless of what model you select there are some best practices to be aware of.

  • If you are using a rechargeable headlamp like I am make sure you keep it fully charged. I typically check my battery level at the beginning of the winter season and again at the beginning of spring. Basically I use the “equinox’s” as reminders to check batteries.
  • If you are using removable batteries, AA or AAA, I highly recommend lithium batteries. It is worth the added cost over alkaline batteries. First, they last much longer both with shelf life and during use. Exact numbers are hard to provide. However, in use, I feel lithium batteries last 3-4 times longer than their alkaline counterparts. This alone justifies their added expense to me. An additional benefit, especially for cold weather use, is lithium batteries greatly out perform alkaline batteries in sub-zero temperatures.
  • As darkness approaches have your headlamp accessible or on your head, but do not turn it on yet. Let your eyes adjust to the failing light. Keep the headlamp off until you reach a level of darkness were light is truly needed for safe footing. If traveling when dawn approaches be aware of when you no longer need headlamp illumination. It can be easy to forget to turn your headlamp off as day breaks.
  • Use the lowest possible setting for 95% of your use. When you are traveling up a trail miles to the patient you do not need to light up the entire forest. Use the lowest setting possible to still see your footing and let your eyes adjust to the darkness.
  • Be cautious not to blind your teammates. Keep your headlamp angled down to your footing. Shield the light when you look towards others.

Summary

Headlamps for Hiking and Search and Rescue
SAR Team Member Alexander Roberts- Photo credit to Corey David Photography, an active SAR team member.

A quality headlamp is a suggestion for recreational hiking and a real necessity for search and rescue work. I have a few other mid-range headlamps around the house and stashed in vehicle glove boxes. They include the Petzl Actik Headlamp and the super affordable Petzl Tikkina Headlamp. This ensures everyone in my family has a headlamp during a power-outage. In the growing list of things I carry, a quality headlamp is a must. It easily earns a spot in the top three of my rescue backpack essentials.

What headlamp do you carry?

Ever found yourself wishing for more illumination while outdoors?

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Support New Hampshire Search and Rescue

Wondering how you can contribute to New Hampshire’s amazing volunteer Search and Rescue community? First, buy an annual Hike Safe Card! If you want to go above and beyond consider making a donation to the NH Outdoor Council. This organization helps efficiently dispersing donations to the multiple volunteer search and rescue teams in the state of New Hampshire. If you would like to donate specifically to teams I am currently a member of you can find their donation pages here:

Androscroggin Valley Search and Rescue Donations

Lakes Region Search and Rescue Donations

While not currently a member I am proud of the decade+ I spent serving on the Mountain Rescue Service Team and their donation page can be found here.

Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after visiting one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

RecPak Meal Replacement Review: Performance and Convenience

RecPak Performance Meal Replacement Review

The last few months I have been testing an ultralight meal replacement product called “RecPak“. I’ll be honest and start by saying I am not a big “protein shake” guy. My all time favorite food to carry on my mountain adventures has always been some pie from the Flatbread Company. I understand there is a place for function over flavor. Weight savings are valued over texture. Performance is prioritized over the aesthetics of leftover pizza.

That place is filled by RecPak, a veteran owned small company that a former Marine (Semper Fi brother!), Reed, started when he couldn’t find a meal replacement solution that fit his needs. I like supporting our Veterans, American made products, and a company that belongs to 1% For The Planet. The company also joins me in supporting the Conservation Alliance, The Access Fund, and the American Alpine Club. So when a media sample was sent to me to review I was willing to set aside my personal indifference around “protein shakes” and give RecPak a fair try.

I received ten each of the Chocolate and Vanilla Chai flavors. Since I work with a mountain guide service that has guides adventuring all over North America and beyond I distributed some of the media samples to my colleagues to get their feedback as well.

RecPak Performance Meal Replacement Review

Taste

I am not a true expert in meal replacement or protein shakes. I can’t speak much on the flavor of either the chocolate or the vanilla chai. My palate would place both of these flavors in the “fine” category. They taste like most other protein shakes I’ve tried. I don’t think people really fuss much over the flavor of such a practical item, do they? The other testers agreed the flavor is on par with similar products they have tried.

RecPak Performance Meal Replacement Review

Texture

This, for me, is more important than flavor when it comes to nutritional supplemental shakes. I have tried some brands whose solubility was just not up to the task of being drinkable. RecPak however, with one important caveat, has great solubility. After adding some cool water to my first RecPak, a chocolate flavored pouch, I took my first sip. I was greeted with some peanut butter like paste. Cap back on, a minute of very vigorous shaking, then another sip. Better, but still not where I wanted it to be. I check the instructions on the back a little closer.

“For best consistency, let settle for a few minutes after shaking”

I stuffed the pouch back in the top of my pack and covered another 1/4 mile above tree-line before stopping at a nice view of the Southern Presidential’s and took my third sip. Now the mix had fully dissolved into a smooth consistency that was pleasant to drink. I drank about a third of the pouch and put it back in my pack before continuing up to the summit of Mount Pierce.

RecPak Co Meal Replacement Review

Nutrition

I am not a nutritionist. Many of my readers probably have more education on performance nutrition than I do. After a sunrise summit of Mount Chocurua, I read the ingredients to my hiking companion.

RecPak Performance Meal Replacement Review

He is a nutritionally educated personal trainer. He nodded his head at each ingredient. He was impressed. Nothing was added that would reduce the value of the mix. He noted the 42 grams of protein is especially welcome considering the requirements of weight training.

RecPak Performance Meal Replacement Review

Performance

Designed specifically to replace calories depleted during endurance sports RecPak hits the mark. Seven hundred properly balanced calories in a package that weighs just over 6 ounces (175 grams) is impressive. I definitely felt re-fueled after consuming just half of a package.

RecPak for Preppers & Thru-Hikers

I’ve recently started shifting my mindset to adapt a bit more of what is often referred to as a “Prepper” mindset. I’m not digging any bunkers in the backyard but I have adopted the practice of having a “Get Home” bag packed in my car as I travel pretty far from home in very rural areas almost daily. It’s comforting to know I have everything in my car that I would need to travel by foot for 2-3 days if I ever needed to. For that reason two of these RecPak’s now live in my Get-Home-Bag. A huge bonus is these bags are reusable and compatible with the Sawyer Mini Filter which is also in my Get-Home-Bag. Extra treated water storage is great for everything from SHTF type events, vehicle breakdowns, or long distance Thru-Hiking.

  • Expect a post soon detailing the contents of my Get-Home-Bag
RecPak Performance Meal Replacement Review

Summary

RecPak has caused me to return to the meal replacement/protein shake space after a pretty long hiatus. I won’t rave about the flavor of any protein shake anytime soon. However, the convenience of quick healthy calorie replacement is impressive. I found the serving size to be a little large. One of the other testers agreed. It felt can feel over-sized when you are still moving quickly on your adventure. His exact words were “I can’t consume 700 calories at once”. In cooler temps after mixing you have a couple days to finish consuming the drink. This timing works for me. On my hikes, I would start a pouch around lunch time. I would finish it at the end of the day. I appreciated how small the packaging was after finishing for easy packing out.

If you are a mountain athlete who has tried to cut back on pack weight but still have what you need to complete the mission take a look at RecPak. In my opinion it is a solid product made by a company with great ethics and global responsibility that I can align with. I will continue to carry one on my hiking and climbing adventures while two will live in my Get-Home-Bag. Once I start to get low in supply I’ll be placing an order for the new Coffee flavor that 150mg of caffeine!

BUY NOW

Readers! Have you tried RecPak yet? Are you into “meal replacement” or protein shakes? Nothing beats left over Flatbread pizza but that’s not always practical! Share your thoughts, comments, questions below!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: Media samples were sent to the author for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. Making a purchase after using one of these links earns the author a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!

Fixed Rope Missing! Chapel Rock, Pine Mountain

During the Summer/Fall of 2023 I partnered with Horton Center to improve the climbing opportunities for their campers at Chapel Rock, Pine Mountain, located in Gorham, New Hampshire. I documented this in great detail in this post.

Rock Climbing Chapel Rock Pine Mountain
The exact model of rope missing, this is the one still there to access the rightmost climbs

Unfortunately, one of the fixed static ropes I installed has gone missing. The camp purchased it, and I installed it to protect the staff while setting up the two leftmost climbs.

I’ve now donated one of my own static ropes and re-installed it so the staff can continue to set up these two climbs which they have spent many hours scrubbing to make more climbable.

I’ve suggested to camp management this may have been a mis-informed act of “Leave No Trace” with someone removing the fixed rope. It’s possible someone with old school ethics does not believe a fixed rope is needed here (it is definite 4th class terrain). There could be other reasons I am not thinking of for why someone may have taken it.

The bottom line is this was private property purchased by a non-profit camp that provides accessible camp adventures and was taken from private property. That’s theft. At this point we want to believe this was not a malicious act. We would like whoever is responsible for removing the rope to return it anonymously with no questions asked. If this reaches the party responsible for removing the rope we are suggesting any of these options to return the rope:

  1. Leave it at the gate on the camp road a couple hundred yards from Dolly Copp Road.
  2. Leave it at International Mountain Equipment with “Northeast Alpine Start” on it
  3. Mail it to the camp with no return address to PO Box J, Pinkham B Road, Gorham, NH 03581.

We truly are not interested in pursuing any legal action and would just like the costly rope back, especially now that an exact replacement costs 40% more due to tarrifs.

At this time the camp isn’t planning to close access during the non-camp season months, but if there is a second removal of camp property from camp property I don’t think anyone would expect the camp to still allow the public to climb on its property. Access is a privilege at this location, not a right.

I really hope this rope is returned, and if it isn’t returned, this is the last time someone takes something from this camp and causes the public to lose access to such a cool venue.

Rock Climbing Chapel Rock Pine Mountain

Gear Review- Ibex Indie Hoodie

Ibex Indie Hoodie Review

This spring and summer I’ve been pretty much living in the Ibex Indie Hoodie. The 185 gm2 Merino wool is the perfect weight and thickness for an active outdoor piece that is warmer than a traditional sun hoody but not so heavy it can’t function as one on lower humidity type days. I have over a dozen days wearing this on Mount Washington from spring ski trips into the Gulf of Slides to being stationed at the base of the Tuckerman Ravine headwall as a first responder during an adventure race.

Ibex put all the right features into this piece. The “scuba” hood fits comfortably under my climbing and ski helmets. The quarter zip which doesn’t exist on any of my sun hoodies is perfect for letting some cool air in on the skin up to the alpine zone. Flatlock stitching means these is super comfortable as a next to skin layer and that is primarily how I have been wearing it.

If you don’t yet own a 185 gm2 Merino wool hoodie you should try this one on! It is a very versatile layer that has a huge range of comfort both temperature wise and over different levels of exertion. Basically it feels cool to the skin on warm days but as the sun drops below the ridge and the temperature gets into the forties and fifties the piece feels warm and cozy.

Save 10% now through September with promo code “AlpineStart10” Order HERE

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here.

Gear Review: Black Diamond Vapor Helmet

Black Diamond has updated their iconic Vapor Helmet for 2023 and I’ve had a few days to test the newest model and I am super impressed with this helmet!

Let’s start by addressing the most obvious feature, the ultra-light weightness. Black Diamond lists the weight for the Small/Medium size at a scant 155 grams, which is about five and a half ounces. The size that fits my head is listed at 180 grams, or 6.35 ounces. My home scale weighed it at 178 grams, which came in two grams lighter than my Petzl Sirocco.

This helmet is in the class of “forgot I had my helmet on” light.

The next most noticeable attribute is the sleekness of the design. While I choose safely over how cool I look when climbing there’s no doubt the design is a bit more appealing than some of the more oval shaped lids on the market.

When you get into what matters most, the protection capabilities of the helmet you’ll be glad to know this helmet passes both CE and UIAA certifications. Protection is provided from a multi-material construction that consists of EPP, EPS, Kevlar, and carbon rods. It’s my assumption the unique use of the last two materials is what drove the manufacturing cost up for this helmet when price comparing similar models.

As for fit it took me about 10 minutes to get everything where I wanted it. There are soft removable and washable internal pads, low profile and removable headlamp clamps, and a TON of ventilation!

Black Diamond Vapor Helmet Review

I really am loving this helmet. It will be suitable for year round rock and ice climbing. With a helmet this light and low profile I think sport climbers who often don’t wear helmets could really up their safety margin with no effect on their redpoint ability. For mountaineering the low weight is a huge benefit.

As with all ultra-light helmets made from EPP some care should be taken to ensure a long life. Pack this helmet at the top of your pack, or strap it on the outside. Don’t sit on your helmet when it’s in your or on your back. And don’t just throw in the back of your pickup truck when your done cragging for the day. This is PPE, take care of it and it will take care of you!

Buy from Backcountry

A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Affiliate links above support the content created here. Thank you!

Gear Review: Metolius Big Nuts

Metolius recently added to their line of passive climbing protection with the simple and accurately named “Metolius Big Nuts“. This set is a light and affordable way to add larger protection to your trad rack.

Metolius Big Nuts Review

When I started trad climbing I used to carry a few hexes to round out my rack before I could afford doubling and tripling up on some of the larger sized cams (Black Diamond C4 #1 and larger). At some point I retired carrying hexes though I’d still consider carrying a couple on longer alpine routes. The new Metolius Big Nuts are a great way to increase your protection options if you climb a lot of wider cracks without adding a lot of weight or cost to your rack. Let’s look at some specifications.

These can be purchased separately or in a set of four. Let’s compare these sizes and weights to representative Black Diamond C4 cams.

These all also taper on the larger “endwise” plane effectively increasing their placement size up to the next equivalent cam. For example the #4 Big Nut (the red one) is 2.1 inches in size making it suitable for a crack that would normally accept a Black Diamond #2 (the yellow size not pictured).

The full set of Big Nuts weighs just under 12 ounces and basically covers the same size cracks that a set of Black Diamond C4’s from size .3 to size 2 would cover. A extra set of those size cams would weigh a little over a pound, for a weight savings of about 6 ounces. The real savings is in cost through. The set of four is on sale right now for $71.21. Price varies on a set of the equivalent sized cams but is roughly about $350.

Performance

The Metolius Big Nuts are tapered and curved which helps them fit a variety of placements. The concave and convex sides of the nuts are more pronounced than the sides of a more classic nut like the Black Diamond Stoppers. One online review suggests this creates security in placements while possibly making them harder to clean. In my use of them I did not notice any difficulty cleaning but opinions will vary based on the type of rock you are climbing on and the quality of your individual placements.

Summary

The Metolius Big Nuts are an excellent way to increase your large crack protection options without breaking the bank on another set of cams. I’m finding these useful on my local trad crags and would definitely take them on my next alpine adventure further away. If you are looking at beefing up your trad rack this year consider a set of these!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Metolius provided this item at no cost for review. Affiliate links above support the content created here.

Gear Review: Dueter Freerider Pro 34+ Backpack

This season I’ve been backcountry skiing with the updated Dueter Freerider Pro 34+ Backpack and I’ve put in enough miles in the skin track to now share some opinions on the pack. Bottom line is this is an excellent pack for extended days in the backcountry with innovative organizational features, plenty of room for a full guiding kit, and a comfortable carry system.

Dueter Freerider Pro 34+ Backpack Review

Organization/Accessibility

Dueter Freerider Pro 34+ Backpack Review

The best feature of this pack is the level of organization you can achieve. It starts with a well sized snow safety avalanche tool pocket with dedicated sleeves for my Ortovox Alu 240 PFA probe, shovel shaft, and Primo snow saw. It also easily accommodates the shovel blade of my Ortovox Beast Shovel or my Ortovox Pro Alu III Shovel (pictured). The outside flap of the avalanche tool pocket has both an internal and external zippered pocket, the latter of which keeps my AIARE field book, snow crystal card, snow thermometer, Rutschblock cord, and Suunto MC-2 compass handy. I use the internal zippered pocket to keep my Adventure Medical First Aid Kit easily accessible. A hip pocket on the waist belt keeps my compact binoculars handy for scouting lines and getting a better look at that crown line. A fleece lined top pocket keeps my Revo goggles accessible and scratch free. I was also impressed with a zippered internal mesh climbing skin pocket sized well for keeping my G3 Minimist Universal climbing skins organized after transitioning for descent. I slide my SAM Splint and SWAT-T Tourniquet into the hydration system ready sleeve inside the back panel.

Dueter Freerider Pro 34+ Backpack Review

Capacity/Ski-Carry

With 34 liters of standard internal space this already is a roomy bag for a day tour. This newest incarnation of this pack now has a roll-top closure that can give you another 10 liters of storage which helps this pack cross over into a multi-day adventure or a semi-technical tour where you might need to carry a harness, a few screws, a rope, etc. When the skin track ends and the boot ladder begins you can carry via A-Frame or Diagonal (I tend to always opt for A-Frame). The system will also carry a snowboard or snowshoes, and includes an external helmet carry option as well. There’s an easy ice axe attachment for my Black Diamond Raven Ultra Axe when I’m heading into steep terrain. Here’s a look at what I can easily pack in this bag:

Dueter Freerider Pro 34+ Backpack Review

Comfort

The pack fits my 5′ 9″ 17 inch torso frame quite well. Snow resistant fabric in the back panel and closed cell foam padding on the shoulder straps and waist belt don’t hold snow which keeps me dryer during a long tour. The sternum strap height can be optimally adjusted. I found the pack carried my full 25 pound kit quite well on both the skin up and the ride down, with my only issue being remembering to re-buckle the “load lifting” straps which must be un-buckled when getting full access through the back panel. My other full back panel access touring pack doesn’t require that step, and if I forgot to re-attach one of the straps I would quickly notice the load shifting around when I started skiing. Not a big issue, just a small step I need to pay attention to.

Summary

This is a fantastic touring pack built by a well known company with a lot of thought put into the design. Despite an impressive amount of organizational capability it doesn’t feel like a pack that has “too many bells & whistles”. It rides and carries well and feels like it will handle hundreds of days in the backcountry with ease. If you are shopping for your first dedicated backcountry touring backpack or looking to upgrade your existing pack this would be a great model to consider!

Dueter Freerider Pro 34+ Backpack Review
The author out on a short tour in Crawford Notch State Park while teaching an AIARE 1 Avalanche Course

Purchase

You can find both men’s and women’s versions of this pack here on Backcountry.com in a few different capacity options. Moosejaw, for the most part, only has stock of the women’s models viewable here. REI does have the 20L and 30L versions found here.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Gear Review: Mammut Eigerjoch Pro Hooded Down Jacket

Mammut Eigerjoch Pro Hooded Jacket Review

Over the last few months I’ve been testing the Mammut Eigerjoch Pro Hooded Down Jacket and it’s time to share my thoughts in a review. This jacket falls into the high end “belay jacket” category and boasts some impressive technology and innovative features that I’ll get into momentarily. But first let’s talk about the elephant in the room. While the official name of the jacket includes “hooded down jacket” this piece is more accurately called a “hybrid” jacket as Mammut has done something pretty non-standard in belay jackets these days and insulated with both 800 fill goose down and Primaloft Gold insulation in areas more prone to getting damp.

This kind of high end optimization is typical of products in the Mammut “Eiger Extreme” collection and many of the features I’ll talk about below fortify my opinion that the Eigerjoch Pro is much more that just a jacket. Let’s look over the manufacturer description and specifications before we get into my opinions on the product.

Mammut Eigerjoch Pro Hooded Jacket Review

Manufacturer Description

Don’t let unpredictable mountain conditions affect you. With the Eigerjoch Pro IN Hooded Jacket Men, you are prepared for the wind and weather. The insulating jacket protects you from moisture with its extremely lightweight Pertex® Quantum Pro material. A combination of down and PrimaLoft® chambers on areas exposed to moisture ensures optimum moisture-wicking and a comfortable body climate. Goose down and feathers keep you warm, while bonded external seams favor enhanced heat retention and weather protection. The jacket is tailored to alpine movement sequences thanks to Mammut® Vertical Motion Technology™, which draws on optimized ergonomics. Mammut® High Reach™ technology allows unrestricted freedom of movement when climbing. You can overcome any mountain challenge.

Extreme goals, extreme demands – this requires extremely functional clothing. With the Eigerjoch Pro IN Hooded Jacket Men you can master every challenge on the mountain. Its double-chamber construction allows us to adapt different zones of the jacket to the respective needs of the body. PrimaLoft® is used in exposed areas and inside where moisture occurs, while the other zones have a warming down filling. With this double-chamber construction, cold bridges can be reliably excluded so that you can completely rely on your expedition from standing to securing.

Features

  • Extremely lightweight Pertex® Quantum Pro material with ultra-thin water-repellent coating and Diamond Fuse technology for increased weather protection and excellent abrasion resistance
  • MAMMUT Thermo Management System™ for optimum weather protection and comfort
  • Double-chamber construction to avoid cold bridges
  • Taped external seams for greater heat retention and weather protection
  • Combination of down and PrimaLoft® chambers on areas exposed to moisture for optimum moisture-wicking and body climate
  • MAMMUT® Vertical Motion Construction™ for optimized ergonomics during alpine movement sequences
  • MAMMUT High Reach Technology™ for unrestricted freedom of movement when climbing
  • MAMMUT® High Visibility Backer Technology™ for high visibility in alpine terrain
  • Stormproof, vertically and horizontally adjustable helmet-compatible hood with reinforced shield for an optimum field of vision at all times and easy operation when wearing gloves
  • Backpack-compatible chest zipper pocket
  • 2 internal glove-warmer pockets made from mesh material
  • Internal chest pocket with zipper
  • 2 climbing-harness-compatible front pockets with zippers
  • YKK Vislon® 2-way zipper for smooth operation
  • Elasticated hand gaiters
  • Silicone webbing on the hem ensures perfect sealing and stops the jacket from riding up
  • Hem drawstring can be adjusted with one hand
  • Additional stow bag with carabiner loop

Performance/Warmth

Mammut Eigerjoch Pro Hooded Jacket Review

I’ve spent over a dozen days in the White Mountains putting this jacket up against some of the worst weather Mount Washington could dish out during summit climbs and while teaching avalanche courses. I’ve also worn it a handful of times while instructing waterfall ice climbing at both Cathedral Ledge and in Crawford Notch. I found the jacket to be more than adequate with heat retention while worn over my typical ice climbing/mountaineering layers. This isn’t surprising considering the amount and quality of the insulation used in the jacket. The Pertex® Quantum Pro material was 100% wind-proof and two prolonged sessions in early season freezing rain revealed the DWR treatment and taped seams work at keeping moisture out.

Mammut Eigerjoch Pro Hooded Jacket Review
Elasticated hand gaiters keep warm in and snow & cold out!

Another feature I really liked that helped with keeping heat in and snow and moisture out was the elasticated hand gaiters. I’ve never tested a piece of outerwear with this feature and it was a really nice touch, especially when climbing an ice choked alpine gully with active spindrift consistently flowing down the climb.

Fit/Sizing

Mammut Eigerjoch Pro Hooded Jacket Review

I went with a medium which was a touch to tight for my 5’9″ 180 lb frame. I was still able to climb in it but a large would have been a better pick for me. The hood was perfectly sized for wearing over a climbing helmet and was easily adjusted  while wearing gloves so that you maintained full field of view while turning your head. The silicone hem on the inside bottom helped keep the jacket tucked under the harness when reaching overhead. Rounding out the long list of features already mentioned in the manufacturer details above a convenient stuff sack with a carabiner carrying loop is included.

Mammut Eigerjoch Pro Hooded Jacket Review
Stuffed in the included stuff sack ready to be clipped to the back of your harness

Summary

There are so many choices out their in the field of high end belay jackets but the Mammut Eigerjoch Pro stands out as one of the best in class choices. Combining the best properties of both down and synthetic insulation while adding features like “hand gaiters” and high performance shell materials make it clear this is a jacket truly designed for extreme conditions. If you’re in the market for a belay jacket upgrade take a close look at this one!

Available in Men’s and Women’s Here

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start



Affiliate links help support this blog. A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Special thanks to longtime client and friend Joe for modeling. All images are my own and subject to copyright.

Outdoor Gift Guide for Cyber Monday!

After having an almost tech free long weekend and a solid #OptOutside Black Friday with the family I’m ready to share a few of my favorite hand-picked deals on outdoor gear for tomorrow’s Cyber Monday… some of these are limited to tonight/tomorrow only so don’t miss out!

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Ice Screw Case

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Ice Screw Case

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Ice Screw Case

This is the nicest ice screw carrying case I’ve ever seen! Granted ice screw cases can be hard to come by. I’ve had an old OR case that was ready to be replaced and was quite happy to receive this one. It’s the perfect size, ultra-light, made out of bombproof material, and has a nice outer zippered pocket that holds an Allen wrench for tightening tools, a few heavy-duty zip ties for field repairs, a small file for field tune-ups, and thanks to a tip from Ragged Mountain Guides a silicone gun cloth that helps ultra-light aluminum ice screws perform better in dense ice. I’m also pretty excited to be reviewing the Prism Crampon Bag and Prism Pack this winter too!


Luci Solar String Lights

Luci String Lights
Photo from http://www.mpowered.com

These are 40% off through tomorrow with promo code “CYBER40”! Awesome for outdoor light both at home and while backpacking that really is a killer deal. I’m also a fan of the new Luci Base Light that can charge your smartphone while also providing great back-up light. We have that model and a few of the Original Luci Lights that we use while car camping and during power-outages at home.


Larger online retailer sales…

Backcountry has some great deals (up to 40% off) on Arc’teryx, Black Diamond, and Patagonia! You can see everything here!

REI has some of the same types of discount up to 50% off here!

EMS‘s biggest deals are with their “Doorbusters” with some up to 75% off all viewable here!


Unique gifts (you won’t find these at a box store)

Mountains For Breakfast $15-$25

Product Collage-01

I’m going to start with some local artists who make hand crafted art with a strong mountain vibe and sense of community because they have a strong mountain vibe and sense of community! Seriously these two friends live enriched lives out of their Tacoma’s and converted vans while building their brands and chasing adventures all over the country. You can support them while giving something that is truly hand-made and inspired. Check out Brittni’s line of drink sweaters, hand poured candles, and stylish Trucker hats here!


Stay Wild Never Mild $2.50-$23

Stay Wild Never Mild

What can I say about my friend Erik, aka @smellybagofdirt? I met him last winter after noticing his somewhat noticeable van all over the valley (or indisposed) then got to know him as an avalanche course student and soon to be bunk-mate and ski partner in Iceland… Talk to him for 10 minutes and you’ll see he’s on his way to making his mark in the world. He just launched his website and is offering some original stickers, posters, and t-shirts. If you have an adrenaline junkie in on your holiday shopping list you’ll find a unique gift from Erik for sure!


Wilderness First Aid Course $195

Wilderness First Aid Course

Anyone who plays in the mountains, and I mean anyone, should take a basic Wilderness First Aid Course. It’s a 16 hour commitment. It could save you or your partners lives. The courses are offered all over the country. There is absolutely no reason not to have a basic first aid course under your belt if you want to play in the mountains. Yet we resist signing up for one. Make it easy for your loved ones by signing them up and paying for it!


Avalanche Course

Ortovox Avalanche Shovel Comparison

This is for the loved ones who like to play on steep snowy slopes! Everyone who knows me knows avalanche education is a huge part of my life. My first brush with this hazard was a life changing event and I can’t advocate enough for getting this education before you wished you had it! If you have someone in your life who has back-country skiing, ice climbing, or winter mountaineering on their short list of things to do help prep them for success by signing them up for an avalanche course!


Hydro Flask ($25-$40)

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hydro-flask-options

This socially responsible company makes the coolest water bottles and tumblers out there! Super high quality stainless steel technology keeps cold drinks cold for 24 hours and hot drinks hot for 6 hours! Customization and tons of color and style options means there is a Hydro Flask out there for just about everyone! Check out their Holiday Gift guide here.


Friendly Foot Shoe Deodorizer ($11)

Friendly Foot Shoe Deodorizer

I’m pretty sure the 10 seconds of silence from my girlfriend after asking her to marry me was enough time for her to accept that she loved a man with some seriously stinky feet. Luckily she said yes and I would soon find this foot powder, seriously the only product that works on my feet! 7 years later she is quick to remind me if she notices my supply running low. This one is a PERFECT stocking stuffer, pick it up on Amazon here.


Darn Tough Socks ($15-$27)

Darn Tough Socks
Darn Tough Socks

Possibly the best socks I’ve ever owned and made right over the border in Vermont! For mountaineering and ice climbing check out this model! These socks come with an unconditional lifetime guarantee and make an excellent stocking stuffer!


MaxxDry Heavy Duty Boot and Glove Dryer ($55)

MaxxDry Boot and Glove Dryer
MaxxDry Boot and Glove Dryer

Every home in the Northeast should have one of these! It’s effective enough that I can easily dry my boots and gloves along with my wife’s in just a couple hours. No balancing them over the floor base heaters or getting them too hot near the wood-stove and risking early de-lamination! You can pick on up on Amazon here.


A high end headlamp!

ONECOL

The Petzl Nao+ is the best headlamp for anyone who gets after dawn patrol or squeezes in late night pitches after work. I admittedly don’t own one yet but it is high on my wish list!


Shop Local!

While I do love these online deals I want to take up this space by encouraging you support local businesses, especially small specialty climbing shops, with your business! To that end if you can physically visit these stores please do!

Eastern Mountain Sports, North Conway, NH

International Mountain Equipment, North Conway, NH

Ragged Mountain Equipment, Intervale, NH

Outdoor Gear Exchange, Burlington, VT

Summary

Well there’s my small contribution to the every growing list of Holiday Gift Guides that are undoubtedly hitting your mailbox this season. My suggestions are heartfelt and I hope they help you flush out your buying needs this season.


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