Over the last few months I’ve been testing the Mammut Eigerjoch Pro Hooded Down Jacket and it’s time to share my thoughts in a review. This jacket falls into the high end “belay jacket” category and boasts some impressive technology and innovative features that I’ll get into momentarily. But first let’s talk about the elephant in the room. While the official name of the jacket includes “hooded down jacket” this piece is more accurately called a “hybrid” jacket as Mammut has done something pretty non-standard in belay jackets these days and insulated with both 800 fill goose down and Primaloft Gold insulation in areas more prone to getting damp.
This kind of high end optimization is typical of products in the Mammut “Eiger Extreme” collection and many of the features I’ll talk about below fortify my opinion that the Eigerjoch Pro is much more that just a jacket. Let’s look over the manufacturer description and specifications before we get into my opinions on the product.
Don’t let unpredictable mountain conditions affect you. With the Eigerjoch Pro IN Hooded Jacket Men, you are prepared for the wind and weather. The insulating jacket protects you from moisture with its extremely lightweight Pertex® Quantum Pro material. A combination of down and PrimaLoft® chambers on areas exposed to moisture ensures optimum moisture-wicking and a comfortable body climate. Goose down and feathers keep you warm, while bonded external seams favor enhanced heat retention and weather protection. The jacket is tailored to alpine movement sequences thanks to Mammut® Vertical Motion Technology™, which draws on optimized ergonomics. Mammut® High Reach™ technology allows unrestricted freedom of movement when climbing. You can overcome any mountain challenge.
Extreme goals, extreme demands – this requires extremely functional clothing. With the Eigerjoch Pro IN Hooded Jacket Men you can master every challenge on the mountain. Its double-chamber construction allows us to adapt different zones of the jacket to the respective needs of the body. PrimaLoft® is used in exposed areas and inside where moisture occurs, while the other zones have a warming down filling. With this double-chamber construction, cold bridges can be reliably excluded so that you can completely rely on your expedition from standing to securing.
- Extremely lightweight Pertex® Quantum Pro material with ultra-thin water-repellent coating and Diamond Fuse technology for increased weather protection and excellent abrasion resistance
- MAMMUT Thermo Management System™ for optimum weather protection and comfort
- Double-chamber construction to avoid cold bridges
- Taped external seams for greater heat retention and weather protection
- Combination of down and PrimaLoft® chambers on areas exposed to moisture for optimum moisture-wicking and body climate
- MAMMUT® Vertical Motion Construction™ for optimized ergonomics during alpine movement sequences
- MAMMUT High Reach Technology™ for unrestricted freedom of movement when climbing
- MAMMUT® High Visibility Backer Technology™ for high visibility in alpine terrain
- Stormproof, vertically and horizontally adjustable helmet-compatible hood with reinforced shield for an optimum field of vision at all times and easy operation when wearing gloves
- Backpack-compatible chest zipper pocket
- 2 internal glove-warmer pockets made from mesh material
- Internal chest pocket with zipper
- 2 climbing-harness-compatible front pockets with zippers
- YKK Vislon® 2-way zipper for smooth operation
- Elasticated hand gaiters
- Silicone webbing on the hem ensures perfect sealing and stops the jacket from riding up
- Hem drawstring can be adjusted with one hand
- Additional stow bag with carabiner loop
I’ve spent over a dozen days in the White Mountains putting this jacket up against some of the worst weather Mount Washington could dish out during summit climbs and while teaching avalanche courses. I’ve also worn it a handful of times while instructing waterfall ice climbing at both Cathedral Ledge and in Crawford Notch. I found the jacket to be more than adequate with heat retention while worn over my typical ice climbing/mountaineering layers. This isn’t surprising considering the amount and quality of the insulation used in the jacket. The Pertex® Quantum Pro material was 100% wind-proof and two prolonged sessions in early season freezing rain revealed the DWR treatment and taped seams work at keeping moisture out.
Another feature I really liked that helped with keeping heat in and snow and moisture out was the elasticated hand gaiters. I’ve never tested a piece of outerwear with this feature and it was a really nice touch, especially when climbing an ice choked alpine gully with active spindrift consistently flowing down the climb.
I went with a medium which was a touch to tight for my 5’9″ 180 lb frame. I was still able to climb in it but a large would have been a better pick for me. The hood was perfectly sized for wearing over a climbing helmet and was easily adjusted while wearing gloves so that you maintained full field of view while turning your head. The silicone hem on the inside bottom helped keep the jacket tucked under the harness when reaching overhead. Rounding out the long list of features already mentioned in the manufacturer details above a convenient stuff sack with a carabiner carrying loop is included.
There are so many choices out their in the field of high end belay jackets but the Mammut Eigerjoch Pro stands out as one of the best in class choices. Combining the best properties of both down and synthetic insulation while adding features like “hand gaiters” and high performance shell materials make it clear this is a jacket truly designed for extreme conditions. If you’re in the market for a belay jacket upgrade take a close look at this one!
Available in Men’s and Women’s Here
See you in the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Start
Affiliate links help support this blog. A media sample was provided for purpose of review. Special thanks to longtime client and friend Joe for modeling. All images are my own and subject to copyright.
7 thoughts on “Gear Review: Mammut Eigerjoch Pro Hooded Down Jacket”
Dave, love your reviews and this jacket. My brother has used it skiing below 0F in Utah for a few years, and I picked one up last winter at his recommendation. Felt plenty warm below 10F active with minimal layers, and 0 to -10f with an Arc’teryx Atom LT and baselayer, even sedentary for short periods! It’s incredibly warm. As you mentioned, wind isn’t a problem either.
One note on sizing, which you hit on…these run small, especially for athletically built guys with hips/butt. The jacket length is between a standard jacket and parka so it extends down over the hips and it’s tight in that area. Luckily Mammut has a button at the bottom of the zipper to prevent it from unzipping from the bottom up.
Any idea how many grams of 850-fill down Mammut used with this jacket? At one point, the Mammut website listed 130 grams, but after trying this on locally, there’s no way it’s only 130 grams; it must’ve been a typo. It felt much too insulated for only 130 grams. It felt more like 230 grams, if not more.
After your research and use, any idea what an accurate measurement of the down fill weight would be? Thanks for the great reviews.
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Great question! I’ve reached out to Mammut directly and will let you know when I hear back!
Hi David, did you happen to find an answer to this question? I’m curious myself, since i”m in the market for a Washington/Rainier/Denali BFP.
Greaat read thank you
Hi David – Great review of the Eigerjoch Pro IN Hooded Jacket. I’m close to your size, 5’9 and 165lbs. I’ve got a 40 in chest, an athletic build, and was wondering if you thought a Medium would be the right size? I never order stuff in Large and worried it would be too big. I’m not ice-climbing; I live in Idaho and ski/tour (it was -14F last week) and would mostly use the jacket as a bomber warm piece. Thanks Bryan
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With your weight I would with a medium! Thanks for reading the review, I’m sure you’ll love the jacket!