If you are a regular reader you will have noticed my last post indicated a speed ascent of the Northeast Ridge Pinnacle the following day, followed by two weeks of silence. The reason? My beautiful daughter decided to arrive a couple days early! Madalena Ann Lottmann was born at 7:56pm on August 28th. We are adjusting nicely to our new addition. Yesterday I returned to work with a Wilderness Navigation Course in Pinkham Notch.
I arrived a little before 8am to set up the classroom. Once I had the classroom set up I felt the pre-course excitement building up. I’m so grateful I get to share knowledge with outdoor minded students as a career and setting up this classroom has me stoked for this winter’s upcoming avalanche course season!
Woodchuck Classroom
Once the 9 participents settled in we began our morning classroom session covering topics from Improvised “Survival” Navigation to solid map & compass work. After a very hearty lunch provided by the AMC we hiked up to Square Ledge to practice some Terrain Association and Single Point Resection/Triangulation.
Field practiceTerrain Association Exercises
We then set a bearing to bushwhack to a nearby ski trail on Wildcat Mountain.
Following a creek bed while trying to maintain our course
We hit the ski trail with in a few meters of our target and set a course back to Square Ledge after gaining a small bit of altitude. We then jumped over to the cross country ski trail and followed fresh moose scat & tracks south to a point up above Lost Pond.
A scenic bit of the winter XC ski trail
This bit of trail is not well marked and is probably much simpler to follow in the snowy months when it is in use (which was perfect for our purposes). After some group discussion as to where we were we plotted a descent down to Lost Pond reaching the northern end after scrambling down a moderately steep gully.
Feedback from the course was super positive and it was good fun bushwhacking in a new area. I’m watching the weather (and the day care schedule) closely to find another day to head up to Pinnacle, and planning reviews of both the Five Ten Guide Tennies and the Camp Four’s for this Fall so stay tuned, and thanks for reading!
Occasionally guests ask me what type of training climbing guides go through to become guides. While the answer can vary dramatically from guide to guide, and company to company, I wanted to share some info about a training day last Friday at Whitehorse Ledge with EMS Climbing School Manager and AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Keith Moon and fellow EMS Guide Anne Parameter (also AMGA CRI) brushing up on guiding skills as part of EMS Schools commitment to professional development. The day was jam packed with information as we worked on techniques to give our guests the best possible days out climbing with us. Some of the skills I personally improved upon:
Quick Belay Transitions to Lowers; In order to give our guests more value in their climbing days it is often beneficial to lower a climber after they have topped out rather than convert everyone to a rappel. With some handy pre-rigging skills a guide can quickly lower a guest back to the deck and be rappelling seconds after the guest is back on the ground ready to move on to the next climb. I especially liked learning a better way of “tricking” my ATC Guide into a re-directed lower that did not involve opening the rope or anchor carabiners.
45 Minute Rescue Drill; This exercise in problem solving and conceptualization requires a solid understanding of belay escapes, tension release-able systems, 3:1, 5:1, 6:1 hauling systems, counter balance rappels, and improvised work-arounds. Being able to work through this scenario in 45 minutes (which seems like a lot of time… it isn’t) is a good test of how well one understands these concepts and can use them to fix any number of problems one can run into in the vertical world.
Quick Transitions from 5th Class Belaying to 4th Class Scrambling; Most multi-pitch guiding occurs in a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio, and being able to put a rope (or two) away and still provide top-belayed security for guests while scrambling up the last 400 feet of easy 5th class terrain can save an hour or more in a guiding day, allowing for more climbing for everyone involved. While practicing this I also got to climb a Whitehorse Slab route I have never finished, the aptly named “Beginner’s Route”, so it was nice to do something different.
The summit slabs of Whitehorse Ledge, Cathedral Ledge and Humphrey’s in the background
Short-roping transitions; There are some circuits on the backside of Whitehorse that provide some excellent 3rd & 4th class terrain to practice this skill. Short-roping, to short lowers, to belayed down climbing, and back up again. While these skills are a must for aspiring Alpine Guides they come in handy in quite a few spots around here, and with practice a party can move as fast as an un-roped party but with markedly better protection.
Anne lowers Keith while short-roping in 4th class terrain
This 2:1 training event was a bit new considering we usually schedule some larger group training events but the benefits were clear. If Anne or I had a question or wanted to practice a skill over again there was no hesitation to “go over it again”, something group training exercises might impede.
I hope this brief recap sheds a little light on that question “What type of training do guides do to become guides?” After 10 years of guiding for EMS Schools it really is clear the learning never stops!
Yesterday wrapped up the 2nd AIARE 2 Avalanche Course of the season. Six Eastern Mountain Sports Climbing Guides, 3 from North Conway, 2 from The Gunks, and 1 from our Lake Placid location spent the last four days furthering their understanding of the avalanche phenomenon by improving their weather and snow-pack observation skills along with their rescue skills.
After reviewing AIARE 1 information we spend the rest of our first day upgrading our rescue skills with focuses on deep burials, multiple burials, close proximity burials, and rescue leadership. The deep burial scenario required a full effort from everyone as our “debris” had set up like concrete and our target was a life size stuffed Gore-tex full suit!
Digging through 2 meters of concreteIt took another 20 minutes of hard work to excavate the victim after reaching the “airway”.One of our multiple burial scenarios unfolding…
Searching in Parallel, Micro-strip Search, Pro’s and Con’s of Marking, and Triage were all topics of that afternoon.
The next day was a heavy classroom day with lots of discussion on Mountain Weather, Online Resources, Metamorphism, and recording observations at the national standard in accordance with the “SWAG”.
We spent the 3rd morning covering the “how’s and why’s” of doing a Full Profile.
Mike Lackman was shadowing the course and offers up some advice during grain identification
Despite increasing Spring like weather the snow pack was not iso-thermal, and a very distinct layer of 3-4mm advanced facets about 50cm down made for some impressive CT & ECT scores. (CT12 & 18, Q2 and ECTP 14)
My Full Profile
From there we went on a short tour up to just above tree-line via the Cog.
Stopping for Chicken Fingers and a quick Weather Observation at Waumbek TankMike searches for the deeper faceted layer in a small pocket just to the right of Jacob’s LadderGaining our high point with the incoming warm front right on our heels
After some poking around in the snow and previewing terrain in the Ammonoosuc Ravine we descending the Cog in fairly good conditions. Right before the base the snow that had started falling around noon turned to rain and we wrapped up our day back at the Highland Center.
For the last day of the course we met at Pinkham Notch and planned a tour into Tuckerman Ravine. We zipped up to Hermit lake in short order and had a quick birthday celebration for Ryan before updating our travel plans.
Good skiing that requires very heads up attention!
We skinned up a very stable Little Headwall and gathered at the floor of the ravine to make a plan. Our climbers headed up into Lobster Claw and our skiers moved across and up into Left Gully.
Dustin and crew crossing the run out and starting the boot pack up climbers right side of Left Gully.
With lots of probing and hand-shears we worked our way up below the ice fall to the left of Left Gully and after a brief group discussion decided we could push higher up to the “choke” of the gully.
We could see our other group just to the right of the mouth of Lobster Claw making observationsLooking down the run I use the “Theodolite” iPhone App to capture some slope info (Location/Altitude not reported as phone was on Airplane mode to conserve battery; i.e. No GPS Data)Looking up into the start zone I capture incline and aspect (180 math needed)
Just below the choke we get some fairly positive hand shear results but the slab that is failing is quite thin, only about 20-25 cms or so. Two of our group wish to push a bit higher, which seemed reasonable, so the rest of us de-skinned and spotted their last 100 foot climb to just above the choke. From here we all descended, one-at-a-time at first, then with good spacing down below. Turns were pretty soft in most spots with occasional sections of hard scoured surface. The flat light made it a bit tricky to really let it rip.
Pretty decent turns and quite a few groups were appreciated the boot pack we had put in. It was a bit disconcerting to see so many without backpacks on… Where is your shovel & probe? It is still winter up there.
We gathered at the floor then descended Little Headwall to the Cutler River. The Upper Cutler was great. One of our group had skied the Lower Cutler (below the bridge) a week prior and the majority vote was to continue down it. It was the first I had skied below the bridge so with a smidgen of hesitation I followed the group down. I can’t say it was great skiing, a bit to heavy mashed potatoes made for a few of those “must turn now” moments. One actively collapsing snow bridge with quite a bit of water right at the end made me glad to be exiting out along the Huntington Ravine trail to cut back over to the John Sherburne Ski Trail. I would suggest bailing at the bridge for the rest of the season… unless you are into that type of stuff!
Our run out…
The rest of the Sherbi skied great though the warm snow was a bit slow as we got to the bottom. No complaints though, all it all a great run!
Back at the parking lot we spent almost an hour and a half debriefing the day and the course in general. Feedback on the course was solicited and shared, and an honest look at what’s next was provided by recent AIARE 3 Graduate Keith Moon. Many of our guides are on tracks for AMGA certifications that will require an AIARE 3 Certificate, so links & suggestions for future learning were provided.
This was a really fun course for me. Getting to work each day with many co-workers who I don’t often cross paths with was a great boon. I feel like I know each of them quite a bit better. Their feedback will definitely help the AIARE 2 courses I lead next year improve. And despite a bit of rain the weather through out the course was fantastic. While I have the rest of the weekend off I’ll be heading back up the hill on Monday, and again on Friday. Then a short vacation before our first ever Mount Washington Observatory AIARE 1 Course!
Then, and only then, will I let myself start focusing on the upcoming rock season. Winter ain’t over till it’s over!
Last week was the first week I could see the gravel in my driveway after a long frosty winter, reminding me it is time to recap this season’s avalanche courses before I get too caught up in rock climbing and adventuring with my ready-for-Summer-toddler-son!
In mid-December I flew out to Reno, NV and attended a 1 day AIARE 2 Instructor Refresher Course at Mt. Rose. It was mostly classroom based, which was a boon considering an almost non-existent snow-pack. Most of the material revolved around some changes in the AIARE course flow, mainly a split between a recreational/guide and forecaster bound flow chart. But I’ld like to focus on the Northeast avalanche course season.
Despite some big January rains this Northeastern winter was one of the best I have in memory. Not just for avalanche courses, but the ice climbing and skiing was quite good from December to today! We ran 8 AIARE 1 courses and 1 AIARE 2 course… and while I am slightly relieved they are over I kind of miss them already. I met so many enthusiastic outdoor people in these courses… from aspiring young back-country skiers to seasoned alpinists, each course was comprised of 7 to 14 like-minded individuals who love to spend time in the mountains. I really feel lucky to have a small part in these folks risk management education and to share some time on the trails with them.
It starts like this
Our first course started on December 28th, and as fate would have it 2 hikers from Massachusetts triggered and survived a nasty 800 foot avalanche down Tuckerman Ravine after getting lost coming down from the summit the day before our course! From reading the various media reports from the Boston Globe, Concord Monitor, and watching various news clips it was apparent they were not aware of the danger they were descending into and are indeed incredibly lucky to have survived. While they did not originally plan to enter this type of consequential avalanche terrain they lacked the skill in navigation needed for above tree-line low visibility travel that is in such short supply these days. Do you really know how to use a map & compass? Carrying them are not enough… but I will stop preaching. Some links to the media reports can be found here:
After that the season was relatively quiet as far as human/avalanche involvements were concerned… but things got interesting around early February. Back to back January thaws had us sitting on a relatively thin snow-pack. We then got hit with prolonged COLD… which set us up for a very high temperature gradient. So, all my attentive students from this season, what does extreme cold and shallow snow produce? That’s right… persistent slabs. To be honest when the rangers first started talking about it in the bulletin I resisted. We don’t have these issues in the East right? Well, turns out we do. For 3-4 weeks all I read about in the daily bulletin was persistent slabs issues. Felt like I was living in Colorado! But a little bit cheaper ;).
My field notes from a tour day
That January 11th rain crust became a household topic (well, maybe just my household), as the USFS snow rangers tracked it day after day wondering when something big might happen on it. As is consistent with the persistent slab problem, nothing happened… until March 29th.
On this early Spring day a historic avalanche rocketed the southeast snowfields on the summit of Mount Washington. Human triggered, and narrowly missing a large group of people who had been in the run-outs minutes earlier, the size and location of this rare event raised everyone’s eyebrows.
Photo from former AIARE 1 student B. GalluzzoPhoto from former AIARE 1 student B. GalluzzoPhoto from former AIARE 1 student B. GalluzzoPhoto from former AIARE 1 student B. Galluzzo
Former USFS Lead Snow Ranger Brad Ray confirmed nothing this size has happened here in at least 50 years! While it was inspiring to see so many ready to respond to this avalanche with appropriate gear it was a little disheartening to hear of the disorganization of the initial rescue effort (since no one was caught no harm no fowl)… but we should all read or learn a bit about rescue organization.
The only other real notable thing on my mind from this past winter was the support that Ortovox gave EMS Schools. This company produces some of the finest avalanche safety gear I have ever tested. I reviewed one of their shovels earlier this season here and have reviews for some of their beacons and probes coming soon. But beyond all the great gear they make they contribute SO much to avalanche education by partnering with AIARE and supporting EMS Schools with great gear. You’ll be hearing more about this company from me in the near future!
So that’s it, while I have 1 more Spring mountaineering ascent of Mount Washington planned my sights are on early season rock climbing and hiking around the Whites with my 2.5 year old son. Find guiding related stuff here, and toddler hiking/climbing related stuff over at my other blog, www.adventurewithalex.com.
It’s officially time to think about snow! This past Saturday concluded the 3rd Eastern Snow & Avalanche Workshop and yesterday I participated in an American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education Instructor Refresher Course.
Photo by Brian IrwinFull House
Colleague Jonathan Shefftz wrote up a great recap of the workshop and has given me permission to post his draft here. Final attendance numbers still need to be verified and there may be some minor tweaks before this is published in the February edition of the Avalanche Review published by the American Avalanche Association. All photos are mine.
Third-Annual Eastern Snow & Avalanche Workshop (“ESAW”) by Jonathan S. Shefftz
Our third-annual Eastern Snow & Avalanche Workshop was held on November 9 in North Conway NH, near the base of Mount Washington in the Presidentials Range.
This year’s ESAW was once again a collaborative effort of the USFS Mount Washington Avalanche Center – led by Chris Joosen – and AAA Eastern Representative Kyle Tyler. Strong attendance of 145 filled up the entire gym of our host, the John H. Fuller Elementary School. The $75 per-attendee registration fee was supplemented with a $500 grant from the American Avalanche Association, and registration fee proceeds over and above the hosting costs went to the youth-oriented White Mountain Avalanche Education Fund.
As with similar workshops in other regions, the presentations appealed to the attendee mix of snow professionals and enthusiastic recreationalists.
We started with Rebecca Scholand, a Mount Washington Observatory meteorologist. In her 2011 presentation on upslope snow development, she remarked that she didn’t care about snow after it falls on the ground. But since then, backcountry skiing has drawn her into our avalanche community, and her presentation covered resources and protocols for improving our avalanche-related weather observations.
Sign language? No, a cool way to estimate cloud cover
Next we went on a tour of Maine’s Baxter State Park and its Mount Katahdin with Chief Ranger Ben Woodard, who explored the ramifications of the limited winter road access (a sharp contrast to NH’s Presidentials). Bob Baribeau, from Mahoosuc Search and Rescue, demonstrated how Katahdin’s “Tableland” snow farm loads up even the technical ice climbing routes and summer hiking trails, so avalanche risk is not exclusive to skiers seeking powder. And with a limited number of on-site park rangers plus only a weekend and holiday presence of formal rescue groups, combined with long approaches, self-rescue is often the only option (a rarity in the Northeast). Bob noted that the average visitor now has more technical gear than common sense. Although sees more avalanche rescue gear among climbers, he also sees parties cutting down on time devoted to information gathering (tying in nicely with the prior presentation on the importance of weather observations).
Doug Richmond, sporting a “Big Green” cap from his nearby alma mater Dartmouth College, assessed human behavior at the ski area boundary, informed by his many years as the Bridger Bowl Ski Patrol Director. Back in the 1970s, a federal ordinance legally sealed off the ski area boundary. The legal status has since changed, as has interest in out-of-bounds skiing and the prevalence of ski touring gear. Doug’s “favorite” incident included a helmet cam video of a skier whose partner is avalanched, then takes out his beacon and … reviews the back of the housing for the instructions on how to conduct a search.
A series of short sessions started with Julie LeBlanc, who updated us on her presentation from last year on the avalanche forecast center in Quebec’s Haute-Gaspesie (aka Chic Chocs), the only avalanche forecast center east of the Rockies other than our own Mount Washington. (And once again, her Quebecois accent contrasted nicely with a bunch of American male presenters!)
Roger Damon, who has been teaching National Ski Patrol avalanche safety courses at Mount Washington since the mid-1960s, presented an update of his earlier ISSW paper on eastern ski resort avalanches. Our ski resorts’ natural snowfall and typically scouring winds, further combined with high skier density, almost never allow for natural snow avalanches. Yet our snowmaking prowess can also make … avalanches. A December 2002 avalanche at 750-foot Holiday Valley (near Buffalo NY) left a 2.1-meter crown, representing a crown face almost exactly one percent of the entire resort vertical drop – perhaps setting some sort of record? And preparations for the 1980 Lake Placid Winter Olympics were evocative of a Monty Python scene:
“Everyone said I was daft to build a castle on a swamp, but I built it all the same, just to show ’em. It sank into the swamp. So I built a second one. That sank into the swamp.”
For the downhill race course, Whiteface Mountain blew onto bare ground a massive amount of snow. It avalanched into the woods, leaving bare ground. So Whiteface below onto the bare ground a second massive amount of snow. It avalanched into the woods, leaving bare ground. Fortunately the third try was not another strike!
Last year, Eric Lutz, a PhD snow scientist with the Dartmouth College Glaciology Group, had explained the art and science of snow penotrometry, taking us from the Ramsonde in the 1930s to the SnowMicroPen in the 1990. This year, Brint Markle, with his fellow MIT whizzes at their AvaTech Safety start-up, took us into the next era. As presented the prior month at CSAW, imagine if you could stick a sectional probe into the snow to immediately transmit a complete hardness profile to your phone, which would then be uploaded to a crowd-sourced geospatial map. And imagine if you could do that … pretty much right now. (Wow!) Extensive field testing will be conducted this year by many snow science professionals – stayed tuned for further updates.
MIT upstart company “AvaTech”Traditional pit profile (30 mins), compared to AvaTech penetrometer (30 secs)
After lunch was scheduled to be Sam Colbeck, retired from the U.S. Army’s Cold Region Research and Engineering Laboratory after three decades of groundbreaking cold lab research in snow crystal bonding. The prior two years, Sam had explained (to the extent we could understand it!) some technical snow physics, and this year was planning to explain wet snow physics, but unfortunately had to cancel because of a flu-like illness. (Best wishes for a speedy recovery!)
Instead we skipped to Dale Atkins, past President of the American Avalanche Association. Dale focused on the concept of risk, and introduced us to VUCA: volatility, uncertainty, complexity, and ambiguity. Our goal should be not to minimize risk but rather to minimize uncertainty. He closed on the thought that when faced with uncertainty, don’t rely on decisions that require predictions.
Another series of short sessions started with Dale Atkins again, this time on avalanche rescue. Dale is RECCO’s Training and Education Manager, but his presentation encompassed all the types, phases, and equipment involved in rescue. His closing thought was that rescue gear puts you in a place to be lucky – but you don’t ever want to rely on luck!
Indeed they are!
Next was Jeff Lane, one of our snow rangers, who introduced us to meteorological variability on Mount Washington (and also announced a new free continuing education series scheduled for the second Saturday of every month). Cyrena Briedé, director of summit operations for the Mount Washington Observatory, assessed how well the summit above-treeline 24/7 observations correlate with conditions for the avalanche forecast areas down in the at-treeline glacial cirques.
Tim Brown, an instructor trainer for the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education, had flown out to teach an instructor refresher course the following day. He explained the evolution and current usage of “avalanche problem” descriptors to communicate risk. With our local “arctic maritime” avalanche climate, wind slab is almost always our primary or even exclusive concern. But we eastern skiers see more varied avalanche conditions than anyone else, since we’re ones always flying out to various western regions in search of better snow and bigger mountains. Therefore, Tim’s presentation was especially important for us when suddenly exposed to the avalanche bulletin format of different forecast centers.
Finally, up again was Doug Richmond to explain Bridger Bowl’s avalanche program and operations. Despite those previously discussed snowmaking avalanches, and also Whiteface Mountain’s lift-served access to avalanche-prone landslide paths, eastern ski resorts are pretty much immune from avalanche danger. Therefore, Doug provided a glimpse into a world that we do not experience locally.
Interspersed throughout were raffles of prizes donated by our sponsors, including American Alpine Club, American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education, ARVA, Backcountry Access, Black Diamond / Pieps, DPS Skis, Dynafit, Leki, Mammut, Mountain Hardwear, Off-Piste Mag, Petzl, Ortovox, Skimo.co, Sterling Rope, Toko, and Voile.
ESAW finally adjourned down the street to our second host International Mountain Equipment for socializing plus vendor displays from AIARE, AvaTech Safety, BCA, BD/Pieps, La Sportiva, Mammut, Ortovox, Petzl, RECCO, and Sterling.
Social Hour at IME
The following morning, the AIARE instructor training happened to be held at the 2011 ESAW venue: we marveled at how we were ever able to squeeze into there only two years! And indeed we are now outgrowing our 2012 and 2013 venue, so plan to join us for the fourth-annual ESAW at the even larger “Theater in the Woods” in neighboring Intervale NH November 8, 2014.
AIARE 1 Instructor Refresher Course
Jonathan Shefftz lives with his wife and mondopoint-size 16 daughter (still too small for “Tech”-compatible ski touring boots) in Western Massachusetts, where he patrols at Northfield Mountain and Mount Greylock. He is an AIARE-qualified instructor, NSP avalanche instructor, and AAA governing board member. When he is not searching out elusive freshies in Southern New England, he works as a financial economics consultant and has been qualified as an expert witness in state and federal courts. He can be reached at jshefftz@post.harvard.edu or just look for the lycra-clad skinner training for his NE Rando Race Series.
While we barely have any snow on the Mt. Washington these two events signal the start of the 2013/2014 Avalanche Course season for me. Now is the the time to take a personal inventory of your goals for avalanche education this season. Events like these continue to reinforce that even after a decade of practice and dozens of courses the learning never stops!
I will be continuing my own professional development in December when I fly out to Mt. Rose, Nevada for an AIARE 2 Instructor Refresher Course. Then our season begins in earnest with our first course starting December 28th.
Since we’ve added online reservations our early enrollment has been significant. A few of our scheduled dates are close to full, so if you’ve been thinking about taking a course this season please check out our dates for our AIARE 1 Courses here.
This year we’re also offering 2 special 4-day “touring gear only” courses that combine the regular 3-Day course with an additional day of touring to help solidify skills learned during the 24 hour course. Those two courses are found here.
I’ll be updating again before the first course kicks off. In the meantime, time to find my avalanche beacon, tune up the skis, and think of snow!
This past Thursday and Friday I passed a 2-day SPI assessment to renew my Single Pitch Instructor certification. The course was run by EMS Schools Guide Charlie Townsend and Kevin Johnson from Alpine Endeavors. 4 other students who took the Single Pitch Instructor Course last year made great classmates as we were examined for the skills required to hold an SPI certification. I’m looking forward to continuing with the AMGA Rock Guide program in the future.
Some group talk at the base of Square LedgeChristopher topping out a lead on the West FaceAndrew following Eileen’s leadChristopher and Eileen managing a top belay stationPreparing for some releasable lowersAndrew leads The ChimneySetting the “anchor”… I’ve never had a BD #6 to place before!Charlie arrives at Andrews belayChristopher being “rescued” by TrishaOne of my props for a topo reading clinic sessionMore skills being practiced on the Thin Air faceAssisted hauls and 3:1Ilene teaches a 15 minute anchor building clinic
We had great weather for both days and it was good to see what other aspiring guides and outdoor professionals are doing. I picked up a couple new ways to think about things, like Trish’s “4 Essentials vrs. the commonly known 10 Essentials, Christopher’s descriptive talk on waste management (especially how it relates to running a cadaver dog), Andrew’s participant engaged approach to coaching climbing movement, and Eileen’s discussion of some of the finer points of building anchors. While I’ve been immersed in this material for the last decade I’m never surprised that there is always something else to learn, or at-least a different way to think about a topic, or explain an idea… The learning really never stops!
I know I blogged last week about the cool commitment EMS has to training its store employees though the new “Schools to Stores” initiative. That initiative is more of an on-going effort, like the 10 free employee lessons our store guides get to take every year. However one of the largest annual training events of the year happened to land right behind it, so bear with me while I chat about how awesome this company is yet again…
On Monday 50+ employees from across the EMS’s chain of 68 stores, from Virginia to Maine, traveled to Mount Washington Valley for 3 days of camping, rock climbing, vendor villages, product demos, free swag, and slideshows from some of the country’s greatest climbers! That same day 3 small groups split off to backpack the Northern Presidentials while the rest settled in at Great Glen for the next couple days of cliff-side training.
On Tuesday reps from Petzl, Black Diamond, CAMP, Five-Ten, and Sterling, La Sportiva, and Scarpa, ran round-robin clinics at Cathedral Ledge educating the store guides on product use and giving everyone a chance to get hands on. From climbing shoes to advanced hauling systems and fixed line ascension everyone got involved.
After a full day of knowledge saturation the store guides returned to the evening festivities at Great Glen with a vendor village, scrumptious catered BBQ from the Moat Mountain Smokehouse & Brewery, and slideshow from world famous climber Cedar Wright!
Busy North EndFixed Rope Ascension, aka “Jugging”Petzl Anchor CentralPetzl gear talk with Dave KarlFree swag from Petzl!
On Wednesday EMS Climbing Guides from North Conway NH, Lake Placid & New Paltz NY, Boston MA, and West Hartford CT gave clinics on advanced anchor building, climbing movement, multi-pitch skills, and fixed rope climbing (LOL improvised Lhotse-face on Whitehorse) at 7 different stations. That evening wrapped up with another great slideshow from one of MWV’s own famous climbers, Janet Bergman.
While the Convergence ended for our store guides this was the first time in years we had just about our entire Climbing School staff in the same town so Charlie, Keith, and Eric organized a great climbing guide training day the next day.
Starting the day at the Classroom at CathedralSome small group chatSome fancy rope work practiceGuess what kind of snake this in in the comments if you read this far…Some guide-to-guide short-rope practiceSome mock guiding on Upper Refuse
I got a lot out of this entire week. I got to see yet again how committed EMS is to it’s mission statement. I got to see old friends from around the industry from store guides to gear reps, pro-climbers, and retired climbing guides. I learned 2 more ways to tie a clove hitch (I now know 5). I learned a great short-rope trick that involves a tree. But I think best of all I got to know some of my fellow climbing guides who work in other locales a bit better. Coming together, sharing ideas, a pitch or two, a quick lap up a classic climb at lunch time, a trail run I would later regret, some guide tricks, a mug (or three) at The Moat, a few funny stories, fewer scary stories, and a healthy bit of debate on gear preferences made for an awesome couple days of guide related work in an otherwise pretty slow time of year. La vie est belle!
I’ve worked for Eastern Mountain Sports in one capacity or another since 1994. A lot has changed since I was first “trained” in the small mall store in Salem, NH. We changed ownership 3 times. We’ve left some western markets and grown our eastern and online presence immensely. I’ve worked in 3 stores and in the last 9 years I’ve worked for the Climbing School and the last 5 years for the Customer Service Team. But one thing that hasn’t changed is this company has always stressed that the key to successful outfitting is through knowledgeable authentic expertise. While it sounds like a bit of a catch-phrase it is so true. To that end the company invests a ton of time and payroll to train folks to levels not very common in the retail industry where turn-over can make training dollars tough to justify.
This past week I was able to get out for 3 days with store employees from our Burlington VT, N. Conway NH, Portland ME, Nashua NH, Concord NH, Portsmouth NH, West Lebanon NH, and Manchester NH stores. On the cliffs of Whitehorse Ledge, Cathedral Ledge, and in Pawtuckaway State Park we shared everything from what kind of programs EMS Schools offers to how to properly size a harness and climbing shoes. It was awesome to see folks who never climbed before overcome their trepidation and send a route, or have an “ah ha” moment while discussing the difference between aid climbing and via ferrata. Here’s some shots from the 3 days. I expect to see many of these store guides back over the summer to take advantage of one of the coolest employee benefits we offer, free climbing/paddling lessons!
I first took the Wilderness First Responder course from Stonehearth Open Learning Opportunities, or SOLO, back in April of 2001 when I first started thinking about becoming a professional mountain guide. Today, along with 7 other Mountain Rescue Service fellow team members, a fellow guide, and a local ski-patroller, I concluded my 4th WFR re-certification.
Bill Aughton explains how gathering vitals over time can help alarm us to a deteriorating patient
Before any re-cert I’ve always had a little apprehension regarding whether this would be time well spent (outside of it being a job requirement to stay current). This year, just like 3 years ago, and 3 years before that, I leave amazed at how valuable these two days were. Unlike Wilderness Emergency Medical Technician’s (WEMT’s), who constantly use the skills they learned in their course while working for ambulance crews, or volunteer ski patrols in Tuckerman Ravine who get to practice splinting and laceration management on the bravest of Spring skiers, climbing guides don’t get to practice these skills often. That’s a good thing, as hurt clients are rarely repeat clients 😉 But we do come across injured recreational climbers and get called out on rescues from time to time, so it is a bit obvious why we need to stay current.
Practicing the “Back-Country Decrumble”EMS Guide Joan V. was a very cooperative patientBill describes proper ways of building a traction splint for a broken femur
But what about you? Should you take a Wilderness First Aid course? I can help you answer that quite easily. Just answer this one question:
Do you (or do you want to) spend time in the woods/mountains?
If you answered yes, then the answer to the first question is a big YES!
Even in an urban environment a little bit of knowledge can go a long way while waiting for an ambulance to arrive. In many cases it may make the difference between needing an ambulance (not cheap) or realizing the injury is stable and we can drive the person to the hospital ourselves. If you’ve ever witnessed an injury you may have stood by watching helplessly… what should we do? It can be a very long 10 minutes for the ambulance to get there… if you are in the mountains it’s even worse, help is hours away!
Simply put, 2 days + $160 tuition could save a life. Or save a leg. Or prevent an infection. Or eliminate the need for an outside rescue. Or make someone way more comfortable while waiting for outside help.
The benefits are huge, the drawbacks are nil.
If you can make it to the SOLO Campus in Conway, NH I recommend it as the learning environment and culture there adds something to the course but don’t let locality prevent you from taking a course. They are offered all over the US and with 111 courses scheduled from now to the end of the year you should be able to find one you can make it to! Use this link and then sort by state to see if there is one near you. It’s definitely a well spent two days!
While winter is not quite done with Mount Washington we finished our last avalanche course of the season this past weekend. Looking back on the season I can say with no embellishment that this has been a banner year for me along with the EMS Schools Avalanche Course Program.
We ran 11 AIARE 1 courses and 1 AIARE 2 course this winter. That’s 114 AIARE students! From our first course at the end of December to our last course that ended April 1st Mother Nature has provided excellent snow conditions for learning about safer travel in the back-country. In mid-January we had 4 EMS School guides travel out west to take an Instructor Training Course in Steven’s Pass, Washington. We are now the largest avalanche course provider in the East with 3 certified AIARE 1 Instructors and 1 AIARE 2 Course Leader on staff. That is exciting as we strive to meet the growing demand of back-country travelers seeking avalanche education!
Human involved avalanches on Mount Washington appear to be on an increase. Early this year a 12 person group triggered an avalanche in Central Gully that caused significant injuries and has stirred up quite a bit of debate.
An accident report from the USFS can be found here.
Then on March 1st a tragic event unfolded on Pinnacle Gully when a solo climber triggered an avalanche that caused him to fall and sustain fatal injuries.
Crown line is visible in this photo just below the rock constriction.
The accident report for this can be found here. That same afternoon an experienced mountain guide was ski descending Lobster Claw Gully in Tuckerman Ravine when one of his clients triggered a size-able slab that carried the guide who was able to self-arrest successfully and did not result in injury.
Just yesterday a skier triggered a rather large hard slab in the Lower Snowfields that could have easily taken a life.
The Avalanche Danger rating for the day for all three of these incidents was “Moderate”. Nationally most human involved accidents happen during “Considerable” danger, but Mount Washington is quite different from our western back-country areas in both terrain and user group make-up.
The Mount Washington Avalanche Center forecasts on a “micro” scale, gully by gully, which may lead some climbers with limited avalanche education into a simple “Moderate means I can do it, Considerable means I can’t” kind of mind frame. The bottom line is “Moderate” means that while natural avalanches are unlikely, human triggered slides are possible. This means the traveler needs to be able to recognize signs of unstable snow, trigger points, terrain traps, etc. in order to move through that terrain.
Our user group is a bit of a factor as well. We have a disproportionate amount of highly skilled technical climbers with limited knowledge related to traveling in avalanche terrain. We’re an area known for breeding world class alpinists. New climbers can learn to competently climb Grade 4+ ice in just a season. They may master rope-systems and technical ice climbing but not understand the differences in wind slab or storm slab.
EDIT: 4/9/2013 USFS Ranger Chris Joosen just posted about “Moderate” and it’s implications in our area. It is very relevant and the post can be found here.
I took my first avalanche course 11 years ago after watching two climbers die in an avalanche in Tuckerman Ravine. I left that course, and subsequent courses, with a healthy dose of irrational fear and an inability to really “put it all together”. After years of practice and learning from experienced avalanche educators around the country some light-bulbs started to go off. I could go on about this for awhile, but I want to sum it up in one sentence.
Avalanche courses today are not like avalanche courses 10 years ago!
The good news is we, as a culture, are learning that. Word of mouth is spreading from partner to partner that a modern formal avalanche course is a wise investment for anyone who wants to spend time in the winter mountains. It goes without saying that what you do with the skills after you leave the course will determine whether or not you are any “safer”. Quality experience is as important as theoretical knowledge! However all the feedback forms this season indicated that time in the course was well spent and provided a great foundation for a life-time of learning!
While I still plan on getting quite a few more days up high skiing this season, I look forward to next winters avalanche course season. I’ll be heading back out west again to get updated in an AIARE 2 Instructor Refresher Course at some point and we’re tweaking some logistics and gear issues at the school to make our courses even more efficient and effective.
To all participants from this season, thank you. Your engagement in the learning process has helped me become a more effective course leader, and I hope to see you all out on the mountain!