Petzl Hirundos Harness Review

This Spring & Summer I climbed almost exclusively in the Petzl Hirundos and would like to share my opinion on this well received harness by Petzl. The Hirundos is a solid option for any climber looking to shed a couple ounces and gain a bit of comfort. Let’s have a look.

Petzl Hirundos Harness Review
Stock photo from Petzl.com
Petzl Hirundos Harness Review
Exploring Middle Sugarloaf whilst wearing the Petzl Hirundos harness- May 2016

WEIGHT/PACK-ABILITY:

I prefer lightweight weight harnesses that pack up small. My home scale weighs my size XL Hirundos in at just over 11 ounces.

Petzl Hirundos Harness Review
11 1/4 ounces

This is a full pound lighter than my Petzl Corax that I used last winter and if there is a slight loss of comfort in the design I have not noticed. I also prefer harnesses that collapse neatly and fit easily inside my climbing helmet as I usually pack my helmet towards the top of my climbing pack. Since I usually don my helmet as soon as I get to the cliff it is most convenient to pack my harness with it.

Petzl Hirundos Harness Review
Efficient use of space

SIZING:

According to the official size chart I would have fit a large with 6 cms to spare but a similarly built co-worker suggested I purchase an XL and his advice was spot on.  My 5’9″ 180 lb frame with a 34 inch waist and thicker thighs definitely needed the XL despite the Petzl size chart.

References C36AO XS C36AO S C36AO M C36AO L C36AO XL
Color(s) orange orange orange orange orange
Size XS S M L XL
Waist belt 65-71 cm 71-77 cm 77-84 cm 84-92 cm 92-100 cm
Leg loops 48-53 cm 48-53 cm 52-57 cm 55-60 cm 57-62 cm
Weight 250 g 270 g 280 g 300 g 315 g

While this harness is marketed towards sport climbing (and alpine climbing) I would suggest anyone that has muscular thighs to consider sizing up if you can’t get to a gear shop to try it on. If you have more than a 36 inch waist you will want to look at other options.

COMFORT:

The Hirundos uses something called “Fuseframe” technology. A fancy word for a pretty straight forward idea. Instead of just adding padding around the structural strength of the waist belt Petzl splits the support with “thermo-formed foam” in a way that reduces pressure points and aids in weight distribution. It is extremely comfortable for a harness that weighs less than a pound! I also found the mesh to be breathable and quick drying even when the humidity was high.

Petzl Hirundos Harness Review
A day in July on Cathedral Ledge

The stretchy fitted leg loop material is more comfortable to me than any “adjustable” metal buckled leg loops I have ever used, and has enough range of movement that I have no concerns about adding some long underwear and some soft-shell ice climbing pants to this outfit for some ice climbing this winter (is it winter yet?).

Features:

The “DoubleBack HD” buckle provides quick secure on/off adjustment of the harness. While double-back  buckles have become standard in this category this small profile buckle adjusts more smoothly than larger style buckles that are in common use.

Petzl Hirundos Harness Review
Slim buckle- stock photo from Petzl.com

As typical of this style harness there are 4 gear loops but Petzl has put more thought into them then just adding 4 loops. The front two are rigid, allowing easier clipping and un-clipping of quick-draws and protection. The rear two are flexible and soft which makes wearing a full size backpack a bit more comfortable (and aids in the compress-ability of the harness for packing).

Petzl Hirundos Harness Review
Well designed gear loops- photo from Petzl.com

There are two integrated CARITOOL screw/tool holder slots so I’ll definitely be using this harness once the ice season starts (is it here yet?) If you ice climb you should definitely pick a couple of these up:

Rounding out the features are detachable rear buckles that can help with sorting a tangled harness (and answering nature’s call) and the inclusion of high-tenacity polyethylene (instead of just regular nylon) at the tie-in points that helps reduce abrasion and wear at a high stress point.

Petzl Hirundos Harness Review
Detachable butt straps- photo from Petzl.com

 

CONCLUSION:

After 4 months of climbing sport, trad, and alpine I can give this harness a hearty endorsement. It’s light, pack-able, comfortable, and well thought out. If you’re looking for a new rig check this harness out on Amazon here!

 

If you liked this review or want to plug YOUR favorite harness please do so in the comments below!

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

Disclaimer: David Lottmann bought this harness with his own money. This post contains affiliate links.

Petzl Hirundos Harness Review
Cannon Cliff

Petzl Connect Adjust Review

The Petzl Connect Adjust has been out for a little over a year now but many climbers haven’t really had a chance to be exposed to it to determine whether or not it would be a helpful addition to their kit. In this review I’ll go in depth on what this item is, how it is different from other products in this category, and what purposes it might be best suited for.

Petzl Connect Adjust Review
Petzl Connect Adjust

So what is it? Simply put it is an adjustable lanyard for conveniently attaching to an anchor. There are a few applications where using a lanyard while climbing can be quite useful. To name just a few; cleaning an anchor at the top of a sport route in preparation for lower/rappel, multi-pitch rappelling where you want to stay anchored without using the main climbing rope, route development/maintenance. It’s probably best to see it in action before we dive into the details.

There are other options in the “tether” arena, and to fully understand the advantages of this piece of equipment it must be held up against what is already out there. So let’s take a very brief look at the two most common solutions climbers use a tether.

  1. The single/double length sling. Cost effective multi-purpose item with the distinct disadvantages of not being adjustable or shock absorbing. Care must be taken to ensure there is no fall potential on generated slack within that attachment. Not redundant.
  2. The Metolius Personal Anchor System (PAS). 93.5 grams. More expensive than the first option, some limited adjust-ability, options to make the situation redundant. It’s no surprise this item has gained a solid following over the last few years for both sport and traditional climbing climbing.

What does the Connect Adjust achieve that these other options don’t? In my opinion there are two distinct advantages of the Connect Adjust:

  1. It’s CE certified for personal fall protection. Its design incorporates the use of the Petzl Arial 9.5 climbing rope. This adds considerable strength (over 15Kn) and durability, along with some dynamic elongation, to your tether. This option does weigh 32.5 grams more than the PAS and is a bit bulkier to rack.
  2. It’s a fully adjustable tether. Other options simply don’t have the ability to fine tune your adjustment length like this device. Sure, there’s the Purcell Prusik, but that can have limitations based on what you build it with.

Before I dive into a couple drawbacks lets get this out of the way right now.

There is no piece of gear that is perfect in every single situation. So don’t look for that. But there is a great piece of gear for every application out there! In this case the Connect Adjust shines in a few arenas;

  1. Cleaning a sport route. Yes, you can continue to link quick draws together with non-lockers to attach yourself at the top of that sick on-sight you just sent. But you know there are better ways. This could be one of them.
  2. Multi-pitch descents/canyoneering. There are some great reasons to bring this along for these type of trips, mainly, the additional “fall protection”. Before I get into explaining “fall protection” here is a clever solution to be able to use this as a rappel extension while still maintaining the tether option (note you lose a bit of length with the girth-hitch and the resulting tether is about 10 inches shorter than a knotted double-length sling.
Petzl Connect Adjust Review
Petzl Connect Adjust Review

Fall Factor at its essence means how much force will be transmitted to the climber/anchor in the event of a fall. You could connect yourself to an anchor with a 4 foot nylon sling, climb up 4 feet, fall 8 feet, and be seriously injured or killed. That’s “Fall Factor”.

Ok, back to “fall protection”. This device is meant to protect against that in climbing situations in two ways.

First, it’s dynamic in nature. While not considered a “shock absorb-er” the technical specs allow for falls up to FF1. That means you could be futzing about trying to adjust something on the anchor with 2 feet of Petzl Arial between you and your anchor point. If you create two feet of slack but don’t go above the anchor point, and fall directly on the anchor (a fall of 2 feet or less), this attachment will dissipate the energy enough to not scramble your organs. The nylon sling/PAS options will not accommodate this type of mistake.

Second, it’s easily adjustable in both directions. You can shorten or lengthen this with consider-able ease increasing the chance of not having unnecessary slack in the system to worry about generating any high fall factor forces. Granted, adjusting it to be longer takes a little bit of practice, especially if you want to do it one handed, but with a little bit of practicing it becomes second nature, and is definitely easier than the Purcell Prusik which pretty much requires two hands for both tightening and loosening.

With that point addressed there is only one other consideration I want to bring up, and that is in redundancy. The materials throughout are more than enough strong for the application, but when confronted with a double bolt anchor without chains this device doesn’t allow you to be clipped into both without building a quick sling anchor (Magic X) or the like. In this regard the Metolius PAS starts to show some advantage. However, the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust solves this issue quickly, though picks up some more weight & bulk in the process.

L35ARM-Dual-Connect-Adjust_LowRes
Petzl Dual Connect Adjust

I’ll be testing the Dual Connect for the next month or so, and plan to update this post with more info related to that. Specifically I have some ideas for how I will rack/store these items on my harness in a more efficient way. While I admit I won’t pack these on trips where I am shaving ounces everywhere there are plenty of times I can see this making my day easier. Off the top of my head guiding 3 clients half-way up Whitehorse before rappelling, cleaning/bolting new routes in the outback, and as a personal tether for Mountain Rescue Service applications (especially as a litter attendant, this device has great potential due to its specifications).

In summary Petzl has created something unique and innovative here. It’s not the Holy Grail, but it’s functional and serves purpose. It does not replace the PAS, double length sling tethers, or clove hitches, but gives us another option of how we secure ourselves in the vertical world. It’s definitely worth checking out.

So what do you think of it? Have you tried it? What’s your personal tether system look like? Let me know in the comments below!

Disclaimer: Both the Connect Adjust and Dual Connect Adjust are being loaned to me from Petzl for this review and I’ll be returning them shortly. My opinions on the device(s) are solely my own.

VSSL Supplies Survival Gear Review

I’ve been involved with survival skills since I was a young Boy Scout, then later, as a US Infantry Marine, and currently as an expert Wilderness Navigation Instructor, Climbing Guide, and Mountain Rescue Service Team Member. So when a friend of mine introduced me to the founder of VSSL (pron. vessel), a new company producing outdoor utility tools with a focus on survival, my interest was naturally peaked.

A couple weeks later I received the VSSL Supplies Model. There are already a ton of positive reviews out on the inter-webs regarding this product along with it being featured in quite a few national magazines:

VSSL Supplies Survival Gear
Photo from VSSLgear.com

Instead of jumping on the brief positive review bandwagon I’m going to break this clever little device down into its realistically smaller parts and review each piece with a focus on performance & real life practicality. Let’s get to it!



VSSL Supplies Survival Gear
VSSL Supplies Survival Gear

The Case:

“Each VSSL unit is 9″ long* by 2″ diameter made from seamless extruded military specification anodized aluminum… Weighs 18 ounces (1 pound, 2 ounces).” – VSSLgear.com

*my at home measurement put the length at 9″ 7/18th (just about 9.5in)

It is unquestionably rugged weighing in at 18.3 ounces. In hand it feels like something you could drop down a 300 foot cliff without it receiving more than a couple cosmetic scratches.

The gist of VSSL is to take the style and durability of the classic rugged Maglite flashlights, switch to energy efficient LEDs, and replace the large heavy D alkaline batteries with small 3 N-type (generic name), or E90 (Energizer) batteries, freeing up storage space in the handle to pack various supplies.

Let’s take a look at everything included:

096
VSSL Supplies Survival Kit

The Compass:

090
VSSL Supplies Compass

On the bottom of the unit is an oil filled compass. Comparing its accuracy to my professional grade compass it was spot on. As a wilderness navigation instructor I would emphasize that this style compass is not a replacement for a dedicated compass that can also function as a protractor for re-section and trip planning. As far as a “backup” compass it is probably the nicest one I have seen, with no visible bubble in the liquid and resolution to 2 degrees, however without an index line that resolution would be hard to take advantage of.

The Light:

FullSizeRender
VSSL Supplies Light

On the other end of the unit you’ll find the dual mode LED flashlight. Official lumens, range, duration, etc. will have to wait while the company seeks “ANSI/NEMA FL-1 portable light certification”. Many of us don’t know what a “lumen” is anyways and we just wanna know how darn bright this thing is and how long will it last? To that end my testing reveals the following (with fresh batteries);

  1. Range– On “high” setting the light has a use-able range of about 20m. My personal definition of “use-able range” is enough light to make out a person standing in open woods. I know, that sounds weird, but to me that is “use-able range”.
  2. Field of View (FOV)– After conducting some market research the company decided to go with a “flood” beam as opposed to a focused “spot” beam. The first thing I noticed about this flood beam was its gigantic FOV, my estimates putting it at about 120 degrees. I can’t help but wonder if some of those polled during the research wanted to make sure zombies couldn’t sneak up from the sides, and with a FOV like this I think those surviving a zombie attack might have a fighting chance 😉
  3. Duration– This is not so much a “negative” point in the review but definitely a case of real life practicality. While switching to compact E90 type batteries frees up valuable space it obviously cuts down on duration. In this case the company reports about 20 hours “usable/functional light time”, and 40 hours in “SOS mode”, which is just a strobe effect. My obvious solution to improve these numbers was to look for lithium batteries in this size, and alas, they do not appear to exist. This has some negative implications for cold weather use; alkaline batteries suffer greatly in sub-zero temperatures. So what to do? Consider this, like the compass, as a “back-up”. Continue to carry a dedicated hands-free headlamp in your day kit. For a really nice option on a emergency headlamp check out the Petzl e+LITE!

Fishing Tackle:

099
VSSL Supplies Fishing Tackle

I’ll be honest, I am no expert at fishing. I have a few fly fishing friends that have been inviting me to get to it though so I plan on sharing this neat little kit with them for their candid take on it. For those who do know what they are looking for in emergency fishing gear this .75oz little tin stocks;

  • 3 barbed hooks
  • 3 lead weights
  • 3 swivel leaders
  • 3 rubber worms
  • 1 swivel spoon
  • 50′ of 20lb test fishing line
  • 1 EVA line winder – bobber

Rope and Razor Blade:

100
VSSL Supplies Rope & Razor Blade

I’d be lying if I didn’t say I smirked a little when I saw this little tin labeled “rope”. What functional rope could be inside this tiny little container? How about 25 feet of 250lb breaking strength rope? Basically a thick thread, this could have countless uses in a real-life survival situation, but don’t expect to go rappelling down your local crag with it ok? The included razor blade can be used to cut said rope, or fishing line, or other gear that needs cutting, or, if you land a fish with the above mentioned fishing gear, a much easier way to skin your catch!

Trail Markers & Whistle:

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VSSL Supplies Trail Markers & Whistle

I wasn’t sure what trail markers would look like, but when I opened this up my first thought was “how clever!”. These 30 little thumb tacks are 50/50 white/red reflective arrows. While they probably wouldn’t have helped Anthony Hopkins out of the wilderness I can see the most practical implication being a remove-able flagging system, perhaps from a main trail to a preferred bivy spot, to mark an unofficial climber’s approach trail, or if you know rescuers are looking for you a way of leaving a bit of a bread crumb trail. The included whistle benefits from being “beadless” so it performs quite well even when wet.

Firestarter & Mirror:

098
VSSL Supplies Firestarter & Mirror

A fire-starter is on every basic “essentials” list for good reason. This fire-starter is composed of;

  • 10 quality weather proof matches
  • 1 striker (under the lid of tin, I almost missed it)
  • 5 Tinder Quik fire starters
  • 1 acrylic signaling mirror (protected by a remove-able microfilm)

Beeswax candle:

VSSL Supplies Beeswax Candle
VSSL Supplies Beeswax Candle

This 100% Canadian Beeswax candle is nestled in the unscrew-able end cap and boasts a 6 hour burn time. Accompanying literature recommends removing the candle from the end cap if burning for more than 15 minutes as the end cap can get quite hot (it is aluminum after all). I imagine cleanup would be a bit more involved if you burned the candle down in the end cap over an extended time.

Wire Saw:

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VSSL Supplies Wire Saw

Another eyebrow raiser was this little tin claiming to hold an effective saw. Turns out this is the same saw issued by the British military. Utilizing canvas handle straps, which are better than the metal ring “handles” you typically see, this is a pretty sweet looking bow saw.

  • Wire saw (high tensile, 60lb working strength with handle straps)
  • Made of 8 independent, tightly woven stainless steel wires
  • Standard issue used by the British Military (United Kingdom Special Forces)
  • Can be used in areas hard to reach with a traditional saw
  • Cuts through wood, bone and soft metals like aircraft aluminum
  • Canvas strap handles make it easier to form the wire saw into a bow for the most effective cutting

I’ll try to get some video showcasing the effectiveness of this soon.

Can Opener/Water Purification:

VSSL Supplies Can Opener & Water Purification
VSSL Supplies Can Opener & Water Purification
  • 1 P-38 military rations can opener (world’s smallest functional can opener)
  • 6 Aquatab water purification tablets
  • 1 set of Aquatab instructions (also useful for starting a fire)

Having enough purification tablets to treat up to 12 liters of water is a great addition to this kit. The “P-38” can opener has a slight learning curve to it. Luckily YouTube member “Horizons” has created a how-to video regarding this opener.

First Aid Kit:

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VSSL Supplies First Aid Mini-Medical Kit

Properly named the “mini-medical kit” this, like the light & compass, should be considered the “back-up” and not replace a dedicated first aid kit for wilderness & survival adventures. VSSL even sells a dedicated First Aid model. I’ve long since learned though the most important thing about a first aid kit is the training of the person carrying it. To that end take a wilderness first aid course from a quality provider. I highly recommend SOLO wilderness medicine training. With courses all over the continent you owe it to yourself  and those you adventure with to take a 16 hour Wilderness First Aid course.

Finally a set of brief instructions covering each “tin” is included in the metallic sleeve:

VSSL Supplies Instructions
VSSL Supplies Instructions

Summary:

It’s obvious that this company is carefully considering everything that goes into this product. A lot is accomplished in 36 inches of cubic space and just over a pound of weight. Could it be improved? Sure. I’d love to see lithium batteries in it, but that would require finding room for AAA size batteries. Stuffing one pair of nitrile gloves into the first aid section would add value for me. These thoughts are diminished though if you take my advice to consider the light feature as a back-up to a traditional headlamp. I think that’s where I keep getting hung up. You can’t fully replace dedicated items to your kit when you are planning an adventure. Compass, Headlamp, First Aid Kit… those are key. But what if you weren’t planning on the %$^# hitting the fan? How difficult is it to just toss this thing in my pack and know I have 6 of the classic “Ten Essentials” already covered.

The answer? Not difficult at all. While this might not ride in my pack all season long, it will definitely be grabbed during short impromptu trips where I plan to be back in a few hours anyways. I think it will also become a standard in our vehicle, as driving to remote places in the winter always has me second guessing our level of preparedness in the event of a break-down in sparsely populated areas.

You can purchase a VSSL directly from the manufacturer here!

What does your emergency kit look like? Share in the comments below!

Thanks for reading… see you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start

You can now follow North East Alpine Start on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram as well as signing up for email notifications at the “Follow” link at the very top tight of this page!

Disclaimer: While this product was provided to me at no cost the opinions above are entirely my own. Affiliate links help support this blog.

Colonial Knife Product Review

Read on for a chance to win one of these great knives!

BC102-2013-w670

A fellow guide introduced me to this knife early this past winter and while I was originally from the “a knife is a knife” camp I have come to see that not all knives are created equal, and in fact this one stands out above the rest by quite a margin. The one-handed operation of this blade needs to be seen to be understood and for that reason I put together this short product video:

Pros:

Super Lightweight

Bombproof/Durable

Convenient one-handed lock-ability

Lifetime Warranty/Made in USA

Cons:

A bit bulky for inside pocket carry; not a real issue considering it is either on my harness or in the top pocket of my pack. It does fit well in the coin pocket of my jeans.

You can order through their website here, but check back here soon as I have been told a discount code might set up for my readers.

PRODUCT GIVEAWAY (Drawing on May 26th, 2015)

There are multiple ways to get an entry in the drawing for one of these knives ($69.99 value). You can get up to four entries into the contest!

1) Like this post through WordPress below

2) Comment on the post below (what knife do you use?)

3) Like or share the post on Facebook here

4) Like the video on YouTube here

Entries must be in by 11:59PM EST on May 25th, 2015. We will draw the winner from all entries on May 26th.

Congrats to bearbait2016 for the winning entry!

Thanks for reading and see you in the mountains!

-NEAlpineStart

Disclaimer: While this knife was provided to me at no cost my opinion on its features and performance are certainly my own formed after 20+ days ice climbing and back-country skiing with this in my kit.