This winter the Conway Scenic Railroad will be running trains through Crawford Notch State Park. Despite a long history climbers being able to access the ice climbing in the area by conveniently walking along the train tracks this may change. Here is what you should know.

These signs refer to the state law regarding traveling on an active railroad. Specifically:

381:14 Criminal Trespass on Railroad Property. – Any person who enters or remains in a railroad station, upon the platform or grounds adjacent to a station, or upon any property of a railroad knowingly without license or privilege to do so, or a person who enters or remains upon or returns to said property in defiance of an order of a station agent or any police officer shall be guilty of criminal trespass as provided in RSA 635:2.

Simply put, you could be charged with a misdemeanor and end up with a fine.

I have heard talks will be happening between parties who this would effect, likely guide services, snowmobile rental companies, and the NH DOT and NH Department of Tourism to see if a solution could be worked out that is amicable to all parties involved, including recreationalists. Whether this speculation works out or not is to be determined.

In the meantime I have some advice on how we, as a climbing community, can not do damage to the efforts that are being started to protect our access to one of the greatest ice climbing destinations in the world.

First, BE COOL. I’ve already seen knee-jerk statements being made on social media. We don’t need to use language like “this battle”. It’s not there yet and hopefully won’t ever be. Don’t feel ENTITLED. Regardless of “what you’ve done for 10+ years”, NH has laws protecting private property owners rights. That’s life. Don’t blame it all on a land/business owner. There are state laws that supersede any decision a business owner might make about running their business.

Use approaches that minimize or eliminate any travel on the tracks

To that end I offer these maps to help you figure out the best way to get to the climbs you are trying to get to. First, for the southern area of Frankenstein (basically the Amphitheater and Lost in the Woods area) use the Frankenstein Cliff Hiking Trail, accessible from both the upper and lower parking lots.

DO NOT climb in the Trestle Cut Flows area this winter. These climbs are just too close to the tracks.

For accessing the northern climbs at Frankenstein (Hanging Gardens, Dracula, Standard Route) use the alternate northern approach shown on this map.

This approach, while you have to climb about 170 feet in elevation from the road, is actually quite a bit faster then the tradition approach along the tracks. It only takes about 15 minutes and puts you within .2 miles of the base of Standard Route. As soon as you can get off the tracks do so. For example, if heading to Standard Route take the approach up towards Hanging Gardens, then follow the climber’s path under Dropline, Penguin, and over to Standard.

DO NOT leave backpacks at the base of Standard Route. Ok, I’m going to climb up on a little soap box for a moment on this one. Why do people leave their backpacks at the bottom of a three pitch ice climb with a walk off? It has never made sense to me. After racking up for multi-pitch ice what is left in my backpack? My belay jacket. My food and water. My first aid kit. My headlamp. My extra gloves. Why would I leave this less-then ten pound backpack on the ground while I leave on a 2 hour adventure? You can climb Grade 3 ice with a backpack on. Trust me.

Ok, off my soap box and on to Mount Willard. This area is much harder to access without using the tracks. For the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and Cinema Gully, use the Hattie Trail approach shown on the map below. Like the northern approach at Frankenstein this is actually faster then the traditional approach from the climber’s parking lot at the top of the notch. You’ll have to gain about 300 feet of elevation from the road but it takes about 20 minutes and puts you within 700 feet of the base of Cinema.

The harder to reach climbs are unfortunately the most popular on Willard, Hitchcock Gully and Left Hand Monkey Wrench. There is just no real alternative to getting to these routes without significant time traveling along the tracks.

The purpose of this post is not stir any controversy or debate but to inform the reader of alternate options and behaviors that will hopefully reduce the possibility of any negative encounters with the railroad employees and climbers. My personal hope is that the railroad comes to see the sight of ice climbers scaling frozen waterfalls near the train as a selling feature for their passengers, something that adds value to the tickets they purchased. Just think about that 8 year kid with his face plastered to the train window when he spots a climber high up on Standard Route as the train passes through… he might just get inspired and grow up to become the next Zac St Jules.

Finally, the last thing we can all do this season is maybe spend a bit more time visiting OTHER climbing areas that don’t require legally questionable approaches. I know it’s been awhile since I’ve been out to Texaco Amphitheater and Arethusa Falls, both close by. I have never been out to Mount Avalon but I have friends that go there ever year. This is my winter to check that place out. The North End of Cathedral is often swamped but the nearby Barking Dog area just past Humphrey’s Ledge is pretty cool. Silver Cascade and The Flume are right across the street from Willard and offer lots of fun pitches of snow & ice climbing. I haven’t been to Grafton Notch yet either so I’m adding that to my list this year.

If you do choose to travel on the tracks do so informed that technically, it is illegal. Whether that will start being enforced or changed could largely be up to how any interactions occur between climbers and train employees. Smiles, waves, and politeness can possibly see us through this uncertain time while those who have a bigger seat at the table look for solutions. Patience and kindness. I hope this info helps.

See you in the mountains,

Northeast Alpine Start