Ice Climbing at the North End 2/6/16

This past Saturday I had the pleasure of taking Alex, Ben, and Eric ice climbing at The North End of Cathedral Ledge for a Winter Climbing 101 Program. We spent much of the day with another EMS Schools group taking the same course led by EMS Guide Cheyenne Chaffee.

EMS Climbing School

Cheyenne explains the differences between various types of traction devices and crampons

After some not-so-fast self arrest practice on the Cathedral Ledge Auto-road we started working on our footwork.

EMS Climbing School

Chaffee demonstrates the differences between “French Technique” “German Technique” and front-pointing

EMS Climbing School

Ben tackles some steeper ice armed with footwork and sharp tools

EMS Climbing School

A participant shakes out

EMS Climbing School

Nearby EMS Guide Keith Moon instructs a Private Ice Climbing Lesson


Alex takes a break halfway up the North End Pillars

While the North End Slab & Pillars were quite mobbed for most the day with the Ice Fest going on there was plenty of ice for us to play on. The ice to the right of Thresher has come in quite well this year, and survived the multiple thaws we have dealt with, providing a great spot to learn the basics without trying to thread the needle with a half dozen ropes on the Pillars. At the end of the day everyone was content with the mileage they had put in and we hope to see some return for the next step, either Mountaineering 201 or Ice Climbing 201.

Thanks for reading,

See you in the mountains,


About David Lottmann

David has devoted his entire adult life to climbing - pushing his grade on recreational objectives and working as a professional mountain guide. After a stint in the United States Marine Corp, he was hired as a rock and ice instructor and since has expanded his repertoire to include alpine, skiing and avalanche education. David is an aspirant Rock Guide through the American Mountain Guide Association [AMGA], an American Institute for Avalanche Awareness and Education [AIARE] Course Leader, holds a Wilderness First Responder [WFR] and is a volunteer member of Mountain Rescue Service [MRS] and Androscoggin Valley Search and Rescue [AVSAR]. In his free time, you will find David blogging, mountain biking, kayaking, hiking, skiing, sharing micro-brews with friends or in the kitchen working on a new recipe in his home town of Conway, New Hampshire. He resides there with his wife, Michelle, his son, Alex and daughter, Madalena.
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