First Avalanche Course of the Season, and first Avalanche Accident

It’s a somber coincidence that during the first day of this season’s Eastern Mountain Sports Schools Avalanche Course season we would have our first avalanche accident of the season occur on Mount Washington. Hours after finishing our first day of mixed classroom and companion rescue field sessions a Mountain Rescue Service call-out informed me there had been two people caught in an avalanche in Tuckerman Ravine. Over the next couple of days details would emerge as to what happened. Much has already been covered by the mainstream media. Some of that coverage can be found here:

http://www.conwaydailysun.com/index.php/newsx/local-news/110668-rescue-123113

http://bostonherald.com/news_opinion/local_coverage/2013/12/mass_hiker_recounts_near_fatal_avalanche

http://www.bostonglobe.com/metro/2013/12/30/two-hikers-injured-mount-washington-avalanche/tAhJNO9vMoLXvYWHT7x49H/story.html

http://www.unionleader.com/article/20131230/NEWHAMPSHIRE03/131239972

While I originally wanted to blog about how this first avalanche course went, I can’t stop thinking about this accident (and the likely future accidents this season) and want to spend my efforts addressing a couple of issues I struggle with.

How can we, as a climbing community, raise the collective bar as to what is responsible travel in the mountains?

This is not a new issue. Mount Washington has a long (perhaps the longest) history in the US of being under-estimated and deadly. Read the book “Not Without Peril” if you are interested in some of the more illustrious stories of mishaps on the mountain.

It would be tough to argue that any other mountain sees more un-skilled travelers on a yearly basis with little “mountain sense”. Some of the reasons for this are obvious; it’s relatively low elevation and accessibility to a huge portion of the US population. Other reasons are more subtle. It’s clear that hikers/climbers push on in adverse conditions when they would not on any other mountain, instead relying on the closed summit buildings and weather observers, and the closed auto road, to provide a margin of safety that might allow them to still bag the summit (but then need help getting back down).

What frustrates me is the amount of education available to the general public that seems to get ignored on a daily basis. Detailed mountain weather forecasts, professional avalanche bulletins, trail information specialists, qualified guide services… all at our finger tips but often not taken into consideration for a climb on this mountain that has seen so many accidents.

Before I go further and people start thinking I am just wagging my finger I recently read, and shared, a great blog post on “Changing the Culture of Shame“. The message is when we, the climbing community, play “Monday morning quarterback” and start saying “That would never happen to us they were reckless, etc. etc.” we discourage the victims from taking ownership of their ordeal, sharing their experience, and helping other’s learn from their mistakes. I agree with this sentiment to a point, by I also think complete absolution from blatant mistakes inhibits the same potential positive outcomes of an accident.

In reading all the reports on this accident in the various regional news papers and watching video blogs a common theme presented itself. The media often romanticizes these victims in their stories. Some of the titles would probably elicit a hometown hero’s welcome. A few media outlets, especially the local ones, were more accurate in their stories;

“The hikers triggered an avalanche” vrs  “The hikers were caught in an avalanche”.

There’s a big difference in these two statement in terms of responsibility, but avalanche awareness (or lack of) wasn’t the root cause of this accident. Lack of general mountain sense was.

The group split up due to impending darkness and lack of headlamps. They did not have map & compass (and by inference the ability to use them). While not a major contributing factor they had inadequate footwear and traction for climbing Mount Washington this time of year. The media has been referring to them as “hikers” instead of “climbers”, to the approval of many vocal online climbing forums, but this is an issue of semantics. Basically they were somewhat prepared (ice axe, goggles, proper clothing), but lacking “essentials”, navigation skills, team work, communication, “mountain sense”.

Whether we call them hikers or climbers it doesn’t matter. They were woefully under-prepared and made bad decisions recognizable by the vast majority of the climbing community. But I’m not sure what the best way to reduce the amount of these type accidents. My gut tells me we are in for a tough winter with already 5 Mountain Rescue Service calls before the New Year; we are well ahead of average. Every year our avalanche accidents seem to increase.

I’ve changed my previous opinion that charging for rescues can be an effective deterrent. Education, it seems should be the best option. Education has increased driver safety, lowered STD transmission, reduced teen-pregnancy and drug use, it should be able to help keep us safer in the mountains. But there is a resistance to education in the mountains. It’s ironic, as there are more guide services, independent guides, outdoor education programs, online resources, climbing clubs, etc. than there has ever been. Yet the overall culture is not changing fast enough. Everyone, from the victims, the rescuers, the media, and fellow climbers, need to ask themselves how they can help shift the balance to a more responsible use of the mountains. The answer for each will undoubtedly be different, but important.

The photos from this weekend’s avalanche course:

Avalanche Course info and dates for the rest of the season are here:

http://www.emsoutdoors.com/avalanche-training/

As the last hours of 2013 are upon us take a quick inventory of your skill set in the mountains. What do you need to brush up on? What resolutions can you make for a productive, safe, fun 2014 climbing/skiing season?

Thanks for reading, please subscribe at the top right if you’d like to follow the progression of avalanche courses I’ll be facilitating this season.

Happy New Year!

Eastern Snow & Avalanche Workshop

It’s officially time to think about snow! This past Saturday concluded the 3rd Eastern Snow & Avalanche Workshop and yesterday I participated in an American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education Instructor Refresher Course.

Photo by Brian Irwin
Photo by Brian Irwin
Full House
Full House

Colleague Jonathan Shefftz wrote up a great recap of the workshop and has given me permission to post his draft here. Final attendance numbers still need to be verified and there may be some minor tweaks before this is published in the February edition of the Avalanche Review published by the American Avalanche Association. All photos are mine.

Third-Annual Eastern Snow & Avalanche Workshop (“ESAW”)
by Jonathan S. Shefftz

Our third-annual Eastern Snow & Avalanche Workshop was held on November 9 in North Conway NH, near the base of Mount Washington in the Presidentials Range.

This year’s ESAW was once again a collaborative effort of the USFS Mount Washington Avalanche Center – led by Chris Joosen – and AAA Eastern Representative Kyle Tyler.  Strong attendance of 145 filled up the entire gym of our host, the John H. Fuller Elementary School.  The $75 per-attendee registration fee was supplemented with a $500 grant from the American Avalanche Association, and registration fee proceeds over and above the hosting costs went to the youth-oriented White Mountain Avalanche Education Fund.

As with similar workshops in other regions, the presentations appealed to the attendee mix of snow professionals and enthusiastic recreationalists.

We started with Rebecca Scholand, a Mount Washington Observatory meteorologist.  In her 2011 presentation on upslope snow development, she remarked that she didn’t care about snow after it falls on the ground.  But since then, backcountry skiing has drawn her into our avalanche community, and her presentation covered resources and protocols for improving our avalanche-related weather observations.

Sign language? No, a cool way to estimate cloud cover
Sign language? No, a cool way to estimate cloud cover

Next we went on a tour of Maine’s Baxter State Park and its Mount Katahdin with Chief Ranger Ben Woodard, who explored the ramifications of the limited winter road access (a sharp contrast to NH’s Presidentials).  Bob Baribeau, from Mahoosuc Search and Rescue, demonstrated how Katahdin’s “Tableland” snow farm loads up even the technical ice climbing routes and summer hiking trails, so avalanche risk is not exclusive to skiers seeking powder.  And with a limited number of on-site park rangers plus only a weekend and holiday presence of formal rescue groups, combined with long approaches, self-rescue is often the only option (a rarity in the Northeast).  Bob noted that the average visitor now has more technical gear than common sense.   Although sees more avalanche rescue gear among climbers, he also sees parties cutting down on time devoted to information gathering (tying in nicely with the prior presentation on the importance of weather observations).

Doug Richmond, sporting a “Big Green” cap from his nearby alma mater Dartmouth College, assessed human behavior at the ski area boundary, informed by his many years as the Bridger Bowl Ski Patrol Director.  Back in the 1970s, a federal ordinance legally sealed off the ski area boundary.  The legal status has since changed, as has interest in out-of-bounds skiing and the prevalence of ski touring gear.  Doug’s “favorite” incident included a helmet cam video of a skier whose partner is avalanched, then takes out his beacon and … reviews the back of the housing for the instructions on how to conduct a search.

A series of short sessions started with Julie LeBlanc, who updated us on her presentation from last year on the avalanche forecast center in Quebec’s Haute-Gaspesie (aka Chic Chocs), the only avalanche forecast center east of the Rockies other than our own Mount Washington.  (And once again, her Quebecois accent contrasted nicely with a bunch of American male presenters!)

Roger Damon, who has been teaching National Ski Patrol avalanche safety courses at Mount Washington since the mid-1960s, presented an update of his earlier ISSW paper on eastern ski resort avalanches.  Our ski resorts’ natural snowfall and typically scouring winds, further combined with high skier density, almost never allow for natural snow avalanches.  Yet our snowmaking prowess can also make … avalanches.  A December 2002 avalanche at 750-foot Holiday Valley (near Buffalo NY) left a 2.1-meter crown, representing a crown face almost exactly one percent of the entire resort vertical drop – perhaps setting some sort of record?  And preparations for the 1980 Lake Placid Winter Olympics were evocative of a Monty Python scene:

“Everyone said I was daft to build a castle on a swamp, but I built it all the same, just to show ’em. It sank into the swamp. So I built a second one. That sank into the swamp.”
For the downhill race course, Whiteface Mountain blew onto bare ground a massive amount of snow.  It avalanched into the woods, leaving bare ground.  So Whiteface below onto the bare ground a second massive amount of snow.  It avalanched into the woods, leaving bare ground.  Fortunately the third try was not another strike!

Last year, Eric Lutz, a PhD snow scientist with the Dartmouth College Glaciology Group, had explained the art and science of snow penotrometry, taking us from the Ramsonde in the 1930s to the SnowMicroPen in the 1990.  This year, Brint Markle, with his fellow MIT whizzes at their AvaTech Safety start-up, took us into the next era.  As presented the prior month at CSAW, imagine if you could stick a sectional probe into the snow to immediately transmit a complete hardness profile to your phone, which would then be uploaded to a crowd-sourced geospatial map.  And imagine if you could do that … pretty much right now.  (Wow!)  Extensive field testing will be conducted this year by many snow science professionals – stayed tuned for further updates.

MIT upstart company "AvaTech"
MIT upstart company “AvaTech”
Traditional pit profile (30 mins), compared to AvaTech penetrometer (30 secs)
Traditional pit profile (30 mins), compared to AvaTech penetrometer (30 secs)

After lunch was scheduled to be Sam Colbeck, retired from the U.S. Army’s Cold Region Research and Engineering Laboratory after three decades of groundbreaking cold lab research in snow crystal bonding.  The prior two years, Sam had explained (to the extent we could understand it!) some technical snow physics, and this year was planning to explain wet snow physics, but unfortunately had to cancel because of a flu-like illness.  (Best wishes for a speedy recovery!)

Instead we skipped to Dale Atkins, past President of the American Avalanche Association.  Dale focused on the concept of risk, and introduced us to VUCA:  volatility, uncertainty, complexity, and ambiguity.  Our goal should be not to minimize risk but rather to minimize uncertainty.  He closed on the thought that when faced with uncertainty, don’t rely on decisions that require predictions.

Another series of short sessions started with Dale Atkins again, this time on avalanche rescue.  Dale is RECCO’s Training and Education Manager, but his presentation encompassed all the types, phases, and equipment involved in rescue.  His closing thought was that rescue gear puts you in a place to be lucky – but you don’t ever want to rely on luck!

Indeed they are!
Indeed they are!

Next was Jeff Lane, one of our snow rangers, who introduced us to meteorological variability on Mount Washington (and also announced a new free continuing education series scheduled for the second Saturday of every month).  Cyrena Briedé, director of summit operations for the Mount Washington Observatory, assessed how well the summit above-treeline 24/7 observations correlate with conditions for the avalanche forecast areas down in the at-treeline glacial cirques.  

Tim Brown, an instructor trainer for the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education, had flown out to teach an instructor refresher course the following day.  He explained the evolution and current usage of “avalanche problem” descriptors to communicate risk.  With our local “arctic maritime” avalanche climate, wind slab is almost always our primary or even exclusive concern.  But we eastern skiers see more varied avalanche conditions than anyone else, since we’re ones always flying out to various western regions in search of better snow and bigger mountains.  Therefore, Tim’s presentation was especially important for us when suddenly exposed to the avalanche bulletin format of different forecast centers.

Finally, up again was Doug Richmond to explain Bridger Bowl’s avalanche program and operations.  Despite those previously discussed snowmaking avalanches, and also Whiteface Mountain’s lift-served access to avalanche-prone landslide paths, eastern ski resorts are pretty much immune from avalanche danger.  Therefore, Doug provided a glimpse into a world that we do not experience locally.

Interspersed throughout were raffles of prizes donated by our sponsors, including American Alpine Club, American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education, ARVA, Backcountry Access, Black Diamond / Pieps, DPS Skis, Dynafit, Leki, Mammut, Mountain Hardwear, Off-Piste Mag, Petzl, Ortovox, Skimo.co, Sterling Rope, Toko, and Voile.

ESAW finally adjourned down the street to our second host International Mountain Equipment for socializing plus vendor displays from AIARE, AvaTech Safety, BCA, BD/Pieps, La Sportiva, Mammut, Ortovox, Petzl, RECCO, and Sterling.

Social Hour at IME
Social Hour at IME

The following morning, the AIARE instructor training happened to be held at the 2011 ESAW venue:  we marveled at how we were ever able to squeeze into there only two years!  And indeed we are now outgrowing our 2012 and 2013 venue, so plan to join us for the fourth-annual ESAW at the even larger “Theater in the Woods” in neighboring Intervale NH November 8, 2014.

AIARE 1 Instructor Refresher Course
AIARE 1 Instructor Refresher Course

Jonathan Shefftz lives with his wife and mondopoint-size 16 daughter (still too small for “Tech”-compatible ski touring boots) in Western Massachusetts, where he patrols at Northfield Mountain and Mount Greylock. He is an AIARE-qualified instructor, NSP avalanche instructor, and AAA governing board member. When he is not searching out elusive freshies in Southern New England, he works as a financial economics consultant and has been qualified as an expert witness in state and federal courts. He can be reached at jshefftz@post.harvard.edu or just look for the lycra-clad skinner training for his NE Rando Race Series.

While we barely have any snow on the Mt. Washington these two events signal the start of the 2013/2014 Avalanche Course season for me. Now is the the time to take a personal inventory of your goals for avalanche education this season. Events like these continue to reinforce that even after a decade of practice and dozens of courses the learning never stops!

I will be continuing my own professional development in December when I fly out to Mt. Rose, Nevada for an AIARE 2 Instructor Refresher Course. Then our season begins in earnest with our first course starting December 28th.

Since we’ve added online reservations our early enrollment has been significant. A few of our scheduled dates are close to full, so if you’ve been thinking about taking a course this season please check out our dates for our AIARE 1 Courses here.

This year we’re also offering 2 special 4-day “touring gear only” courses that combine the regular 3-Day course with an additional day of touring to help solidify skills learned during the 24 hour course. Those two courses are found here.

I’ll be updating again before the first course kicks off. In the meantime, time to find my avalanche beacon, tune up the skis, and think of snow!

Five Ten Camp Four Approach Shoes

I bought my first pair of Five Ten Camp Four Approach Shoes in 2009. Over the last 4 years I have worn them on hundreds of miles of White Mountain trails, dozens of guided trips, and quite a few search & rescues. They have served me so well that when I finally wore them out I had no doubt that I would be replacing them with the same shoe. They are the perfect 3 season supportive hiking shoe for a number of reasons.

While stick when wet
Will stick when wet

Support:

I only wear boots when their is snow & ice on the ground, so from April to November these are my most worn shoe for hiking in the Whites. It’s important to note even when carrying a heavy pack I don’t need the ankle support that some folks do, so if you question the strength of your ankles you might prefer something with ankle support. However these do offer excellent support for your foot from a full length nylon shank and comfortable EVA mid-sole. This under-foot support is a big difference from my softer Five Ten Guide Tennies, which I prefer for moderate rock climbing, but are to fatiguing when covering many miles of rugged terrain.

From EMS.com:

  • Proprietary molded PU external heel cage adds rear-foot support and stability, allowing you to hump heavy loads for long distances, without the need for a high-top boot

Traction:

The Stealth C4/S1 high-friction soles provide amazing friction on wet & dry rock. This is also probably the beefiest sole I have seen on a trail shoe which is probably why these weigh in a bit heavier than similar trail shoes at 1lb 12 ounces, but I’ll take a few extra ounces for the great durability and support this out-sole provides!

Comfort: It’s a no brainer a shoe with great traction and support isn’t going to be worn if it isn’t comfortable. I would consider this a low to mid volume shoe. As mentioned on EMS.com :

  • Lace to toe closure can be worn relaxed for a long-distance fit, or tightened – for climbing and scrambling

I’ve put a few 12+ mile days on these, much above tree-line, and they are the only trail shoe I’ve put so much abuse on that I haven’t wanted to take off the second I get back to the car. They are that comfortable.

The only con I can think of is they are not waterproof. No biggie there, since they are made with Nubuck leather I would waterproof them myself with Nikwax Waterproof Wax every other year or so.

Bottom-line: I hope they never stop making this shoe. I plan on finishing the 48 four-thousand footers with these, and continuing my red-lining of the WMNF. I think these would be the PERFECT AT Thru-Hike shoe, though I imagine it might take 2 pairs to complete the 2,100mi trip. Check em’ out!

Buy on Backcountry

AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Assessment

This past Thursday and Friday I passed a 2-day SPI assessment to renew my Single Pitch Instructor certification. The course was run by EMS Schools Guide Charlie Townsend and Kevin Johnson from Alpine Endeavors. 4 other students who took the Single Pitch Instructor Course last year made great classmates as we were examined for the skills required to hold an SPI certification. I’m looking forward to continuing with the AMGA Rock Guide program in the future.

Some group talk at the base of Square Ledge
Some group talk at the base of Square Ledge
Christopher topping out a lead on the West Face
Christopher topping out a lead on the West Face
Andrew following Ilene's lead
Andrew following Eileen’s lead
Christopher and Ilene managing a top belay station
Christopher and  Eileen managing a top belay station
Preparing for some releasable lowers
Preparing for some releasable lowers
Andrew leads The Chimney
Andrew leads The Chimney
Setting the "anchor"... I've never had a BD #6 to place before!
Setting the “anchor”… I’ve never had a BD #6 to place before!
Charlie arrives at Andrews belay
Charlie arrives at Andrews belay
Christopher being "rescued" by Trisha
Christopher being “rescued” by Trisha
One of my props for a topo reading clinic session
One of my props for a topo reading clinic session
More skills being practiced on the Thin Air face
More skills being practiced on the Thin Air face
Assisted hauls and 3:1
Assisted hauls and 3:1
Ilene teaches a 15 minute anchor building clinic
Ilene teaches a 15 minute anchor building clinic

We had great weather for both days and it was good to see what other aspiring guides and outdoor professionals are doing. I picked up a couple new ways to think about things, like Trish’s “4 Essentials vrs. the commonly known 10 Essentials, Christopher’s descriptive talk on waste management (especially how it relates to running a cadaver dog), Andrew’s participant engaged approach to coaching climbing movement, and Eileen’s discussion of some of the finer points of building anchors. While I’ve been immersed in this material for the last decade I’m never surprised that there is always something else to learn, or at-least a different way to think about a topic, or explain an idea… The learning really never stops!

Private Rock Climbing- Leadership Skills

I couple of years ago Andrew was a student of mine in an AIARE 1 Avalanche Course. Since then he has toured quite a bit in the New York and Vermont back-country and built up a pretty good list of rock climbs from Moby Grape on Cannon to lots of sport leads at Rumney. Wanting to improve his leader skills and efficiency we spent a beautiful day yesterday at Cathedral Ledge working on the finer points of multi-pitch trad climbing. Since I wanted to maximize the amount of info we could cover in this private course I drafted up a brief agenda the night before to give our day some structure.

Meet at 8:30, Drive to top of Cathedral.

Morning Session: Brief anchor building clinic

Attaching to a multi-pitch anchor (various methods pro/cons)

Belaying a second; harness, re-direct, direct  (various methods pro/cons)

Assisting a second: Canadian Drop Loop, 3:1, 5:1 improvised pulley’s

Move to Barber Wall, Rappelling Clinic (why do people keep dying)

Middle-marks, end knots, safety at the edge, pre-rigging, stacking, efficiency

Moving through 3rd & 4th class terrain

Climb Upper Refuse in 3 pitches

Efficient seconding. Belay transitions. Proper lap-coiling. Swinging Leads vrs. Blocking

Lunch

Back to “classroom ledge”.

Extending top-rope anchors

Leader Rescue Session.

Belay Escapes.

Ascending Loaded Rope.

Counter-balance rappel with injured climber.

Upper Refuse
Upper Refuse
Whitehorse in the background
Whitehorse in the background
Figuring out a 5:1 hauling system
Figuring out a 5:1 hauling system
Anchor clinic
Anchor clinic
Fall colors!
Fall colors!

Whew, that is ALOT of information for an 8 hour course but we wrapped it up right on time. I love guiding days like this when I’m not just leading someone up a climb, but sharing the tips & tricks that can take a decade to discover with a fairly competent climber. I look forward to working with Andrew again to continue to improve his skill set!

If you want to spend a day like this with me there is still plenty of fair weather to get out before winter arrives! We can have a day like this well into November, so click here for info on our private courses!

Private Rock Climbing 8-7-2013

Had the pleasure of taking Rhode Island native Manny out for a day of private rock instruction. Manny had climbed with us last year and returned to dial in some of his multi-pitch skills. We started over at Whitehorse Ledge and quickly polished off 600 feet of climbing getting up to Lunch Ledge in just over one hour. We then rappelled back to the ground and headed on over to Cathedral Ledge. A quick rappel down the Barber Wall and a short walk found us below an empty Upper Refuse. We cruised that in style with plenty of time to work on some crack climbing skills at the North End by climbing both Child’s Play and Kiddy Crack.

Whitehorse Ledge
Whitehorse Ledge
600 feet of slab climbing is a great warm-up
600 feet of slab climbing is a great warm-up
Rappelling from Lunch Ledge
Rappelling from Lunch Ledge
Chillin' at the anchor
Chillin’ at the anchor
Rapping down the Barber Wall
Rapping down the Barber Wall
First Pitch of Upper Refuse
First Pitch of Upper Refuse
Last pitch of Upper Refuse
Last pitch of Upper Refuse

Outstanding weather, a great partner, 10 pitches of climbing, over a 1,000 feet in total… what’s not to like?

Rock Climbing Fast Track Program 7/27/13 – 7/28/13

What a fantastic two days! It was obvious from the beginning that Mel & Kyle have a serious adventure streak (Kyle proposed to Melanie on Mount Washington after a summit climb), and they select birthday and anniversary vacation destinations based on what outdoor sports they can do while there… my kind of people! We started off on Day 1 working on Slab/Multi-pitch technique over at Whitehorse Ledge. We climbed 4 pitches of Standard Route before rappelling down, grabbing some lunch, then working on some crack climbing on Beezebub and Seventh Seal.

Day 2 brought us over to Cathedral Ledge where we rappelled the Barber Wall then climbed a very memorable Upper Refuse, followed by a scenic lunch atop Airation Buttress and some top-roping/gear clinics down at the North End to finish the day.

It was a perfect 2 days of climbing, and I’m pretty sure Mel & Kyle are hooked as they were checking our shoes and harness from the store while I was heading home. I’m pretty sure I’ll see them back on the cliffs in the near future!

For information on the Fast Track Program go here: http://www.emsexploration.com/climb/accelerated-intro-to-rock-climbing/