Some morning slab- Found Ledge

I only had a few hours this morning after dropping the kiddo off at daycare so I stayed pretty close to home and met up with long time buddy Tom C. for a quick trip out to Found Ledge, pg 42 of North Conway Rock Climbs, here on NEClimbs, and here on Mountain Project.

These pretty little cliffs sit on the west side of the scenic Kancamagus Highway which, by the way, is starting to overflow a bit with the leaf-peeping crowd. Tour buses and rubber-necker’s abound, so I suggest parking well off the shoulder.

The approach is an enjoyable 15-20 minutes of gentle uphill, the majority of which is alongside a babbling brook.

A good example of how slope exposure effects the type of vegetation

A good example of how slope exposure effects the type of vegetation

We started at The Little Slab and within an hour and a half Tom dispatched the four right most routes;

Unknown; 5.5? 75′

Cast of Chicken Heads; 5.5 75′

Brilliant; 5.8 80′

A little Slabba Do Ya; 5.8+, 80′

Tom cruising up Brilliant

Tom cruising up Brilliant

Tom works up

Tom works up “A little Slabba Do Ya”

The two routes to the left, Elvis in the House and Found a Line were pretty wet (despite no rain in 6 days) so we skipped those and hiked along the intimidating Lumberjack Wall before scrambling up a easy corner/gully to take in the view from the top.

Crag Y top left

Crag Y top left

It’s a neat little spot up here with some nice views to the south and some cool boulders perched in a few spots. To the east we could see some of the open slabs above the Main Cliff and decided to go poke around over there before leaving. This line caught my eye;

Unknown route far right on the Main Cliff

Unknown route far right on the Main Cliff

We scrambled up the slope to the right of the wall and looking back at the upper slab section saw what looked like a bolt just above the steeper section and perhaps an anchor 10 feet higher, unfortunately not very visible in this photo;

Looks good!

Looks good! There is a 40 foot more vertical section below the rock you can see here

I think this line is referenced in Handren’s new guide on Pg. 44. “There is a line with a couple of bolts here, but it is unclear if it was ever finished.” I’m going to ask around. It looks pretty cool.

This place, along with nearby Lost Ledge, offers some really nice friction climbing this time of year. The approach is really pretty chill, though you have to pay attention to stay on track. At one point this trail was over blazed. A little bit of foot traffic would help keep it obvious without resorting to over blazing it again. You should go check it out!

About David Lottmann

David has devoted his entire adult life to climbing - pushing his grade on recreational objectives and working as a professional mountain guide. After a stint in the United States Marine Corp, he was hired as a rock and ice instructor and since has expanded his repertoire to include alpine, skiing and avalanche education. David is an aspirant Rock Guide through the American Mountain Guide Association [AMGA], an American Institute for Avalanche Awareness and Education [AIARE] Course Leader, holds a Wilderness First Responder [WFR] and is a volunteer member of Mountain Rescue Service [MRS] and Androscoggin Valley Search and Rescue [AVSAR]. In his free time, you will find David blogging, mountain biking, kayaking, hiking, skiing, sharing micro-brews with friends or in the kitchen working on a new recipe in his home town of Conway, New Hampshire. He resides there with his wife, Michelle, his son, Alex and daughter, Madalena.
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2 Responses to Some morning slab- Found Ledge

  1. Al Hospers says:

    nope, not unfinished at all…

    http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes&RouteID=1098

    I’ve done it several times and it’s worth climbing. in fact it’s probably the best climb on that side of the crag IMO

    it used to continue from where the anchor is now, up to a tree in the middle of the very easy empty slab. With the permission of the FA party, Joe Perez and I added a second bolt to the upper one to make an anchor, because we all agreed that the rest wasn’t worth doing.

    Like

  2. Al Hospers says:

    far right climb is Lovely (5.7) Judy Perez

    Like

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