Some morning slab- Found Ledge

I only had a few hours this morning after dropping the kiddo off at daycare so I stayed pretty close to home and met up with long time buddy Tom C. for a quick trip out to Found Ledge, pg 42 of North Conway Rock Climbs, here on NEClimbs, and here on Mountain Project.

These pretty little cliffs sit on the west side of the scenic Kancamagus Highway which, by the way, is starting to overflow a bit with the leaf-peeping crowd. Tour buses and rubber-necker’s abound, so I suggest parking well off the shoulder.

The approach is an enjoyable 15-20 minutes of gentle uphill, the majority of which is alongside a babbling brook.

A good example of how slope exposure effects the type of vegetation

A good example of how slope exposure effects the type of vegetation

We started at The Little Slab and within an hour and a half Tom dispatched the four right most routes;

Unknown; 5.5? 75′

Cast of Chicken Heads; 5.5 75′

Brilliant; 5.8 80′

A little Slabba Do Ya; 5.8+, 80′

Tom cruising up Brilliant

Tom cruising up Brilliant

Tom works up

Tom works up “A little Slabba Do Ya”

The two routes to the left, Elvis in the House and Found a Line were pretty wet (despite no rain in 6 days) so we skipped those and hiked along the intimidating Lumberjack Wall before scrambling up a easy corner/gully to take in the view from the top.

Crag Y top left

Crag Y top left

It’s a neat little spot up here with some nice views to the south and some cool boulders perched in a few spots. To the east we could see some of the open slabs above the Main Cliff and decided to go poke around over there before leaving. This line caught my eye;

Unknown route far right on the Main Cliff

Unknown route far right on the Main Cliff

We scrambled up the slope to the right of the wall and looking back at the upper slab section saw what looked like a bolt just above the steeper section and perhaps an anchor 10 feet higher, unfortunately not very visible in this photo;

Looks good!

Looks good! There is a 40 foot more vertical section below the rock you can see here

I think this line is referenced in Handren’s new guide on Pg. 44. “There is a line with a couple of bolts here, but it is unclear if it was ever finished.” I’m going to ask around. It looks pretty cool.

This place, along with nearby Lost Ledge, offers some really nice friction climbing this time of year. The approach is really pretty chill, though you have to pay attention to stay on track. At one point this trail was over blazed. A little bit of foot traffic would help keep it obvious without resorting to over blazing it again. You should go check it out!

About David Lottmann

David grew up skiing in the Whites and started climbing at a summer camp just north of Mt. Washington when he was 16. Those first couple of years solidified climbing as a lifetime passion. From 1996-2000 he served in the USMC, and spent the better part of those years traveling the globe (18 countries). After returning to civilian life he moved to North Conway to focus on climbing and was hired in 2004 as a Rock and Ice Instructor. Since then Dave has taken numerous AMGA courses, most recently attaining a Single Pitch Instructor. He has completed a Level 3 AIARE avalanche course, is a Level 2 Course Leader, holds a valid Wilderness First Responder and is a member of Mountain Rescue Service. When David isn't out guiding he enjoys mountain biking, kayaking, hiking, backcountry skiing, trying to cook something new once a week and sampling new micro-brews. He lives in Conway, NH with his wife Michelle, son Alex, and daughter Madalena.
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2 Responses to Some morning slab- Found Ledge

  1. Al Hospers says:

    nope, not unfinished at all…

    http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes&RouteID=1098

    I’ve done it several times and it’s worth climbing. in fact it’s probably the best climb on that side of the crag IMO

    it used to continue from where the anchor is now, up to a tree in the middle of the very easy empty slab. With the permission of the FA party, Joe Perez and I added a second bolt to the upper one to make an anchor, because we all agreed that the rest wasn’t worth doing.

    Like

  2. Al Hospers says:

    far right climb is Lovely (5.7) Judy Perez

    Like

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