AIARE 1 Avalanche Course, 2/22/13 – 2/24/13

Conditions over the last few days were perfect for another AIARE 1 Avalanche Course. Over a foot of new snow had fallen over the week and on Friday we gathered at the AMC Highland Center in Crawford Notch to begin the 3-Day course. After a morning indoor session we headed outside and practiced companion rescue with burials at a realistic depth of 1.2 meters.

On Saturday we headed over to the west side of Mount Washington to ascend the ridge between Burt and Ammonoosuc Ravine alongside the Cog Railway.

The Cog ascends the ridge between Burt and Ammonoosuc Ravine
From Marshfield Station The Cog ascends the ridge between Burt and Ammonoosuc Ravine
Starting our ascent with Marshfield Base Station behind us
Starting our ascent with Marshfield Base Station behind us
Continuing up after a quick break and weather observation at Waumbek Tank
Continuing up after a quick break and weather observation at Waumbek Tank
Nick, one of the students, starts to "ski cut" the slope just off the tracks. We did get some small shooting cracks and positive results in a few spots in the new storm snow.
Nick, one of the students, starts to “ski cut” the slope just off the tracks. We did get some small shooting cracks and positive results in a few spots in the new storm snow.
Jacob's Ladder, 4,750 feet in elevation
Jacob’s Ladder, 4,725 feet in elevation

Digging in the snow on the northwest aspects here revealed fairly uniform pencil hard slab with a lack of buried weak layers. Just on the southwest side of the ridge I was able to get very positive ski cuts along with observing some small cornices.

Looking into Ammonoosuc Ravine
Looking into Ammonoosuc Ravine

We thought we saw a small recent avalanche down in Ammonoosuc but it was hard to confirm from our position up on the ridge. I definitely need to add a small pair of binoculars to my kit! The weather turned pretty quickly and by 3:15 we were de-skinning and getting ready to drop a fairly sweet powder run back to the trail-head.

On Sunday we met at the very busy Pinkham Notch Visitor Center. With a forecast of “Considerable” avalanche danger and a complicated bulletin the group worked together on a trip plan for the day.

Morning Trip Planning Session
Morning Trip Planning Session

Enroute to Hermit Lake we made a quick stop to check out the snow study plot. 1.3 meters of snow on the ground, with more accumulating through-out the day on the 24 hour and storm snow boards. 5-6% density snow = fluffy greatness!

Hermit Lake Snow Study Plot
Hermit Lake Snow Study Plot

When we reached Hermit Lake USFS Snow Ranger Jeff Lane chatted with the class regarding their mission up there and the local variability that effects their forecasting operation.

Chatting with USFS Snow Ranger, Jeff Lane
Chatting with USFS Snow Ranger, Jeff Lane

After updating our weather observations and reviewing our route options from the morning the group selected Hillman’s Highway as an area we could tour through in order to complete our course goals.

Before entering into the area effected by the large D4 avalanche a few years ago we discussed how best to use the terrain to stay protected.

Where should we go?
Where should we go? Photo by Mike Lackman

After traversing some ground and learning the value of a solid uphill kick turn we dropped back down below the dog-leg of Hillman’s and made some snowpack observations on a small slope, concluding our observations with an entertaining Rutschblock Test.

Esoteric info: RB 4, MB, 35cm down on older storm snow
Esoteric info: 33 degree slope on East aspect @ 3,950ft, RB 4, MB, 35cm down on older storm snow

I actually got to use “esoteric rhetoric” in a sentence when describing how we might try to interpret our results and that word combination still gives me a chuckle for some reason.

My tour notes from the day:

022

5 more courses and that will be it for the 2012/2013 avalanche course season. We only have 1 spot left in this upcoming weekend’s course so if you are interested call and book it today! 800-310-4504.

You can see the other dates we have scheduled here. All 5 courses are close to full so don’t delay if you were hoping to get this course in this winter!

See you on the mountain!

AIARE 2 Avalanche Course, 2/15/13 thru 2/18/13

Yesterday concluded this season’s AIARE 2 Course. I was super stoked to facilitate this advanced avalanche course, “Analyzing Snow Stability And Avalanche Hazard”. We had 2 EMS School Guides from Lake Placid, Matt Weich and Jack Lane, new EMS Schools North Conway guide Jeremy Devine, and 4 other snow savvy back-country travelers in attendance.

We started the course at the AMC Highland Center on Friday, and after reviewing AIARE 1 curriculum we headed out to a nearby field location to refresh and build upon our Companion Rescue skills. Emphasis was on leadership and and triage in multiple and deep burial scenarios. Recent AIARE 1 Course Instructor and fellow EMS School Guide Mike Lackman joined us to help with the afternoon session.

On Day 2 we dove into some of the complexities of mountain weather and snow-pack metamorphism. Despite chatting about temperature gradients, vapor pressure effects, and the differences between short-wave and long-rave radiation everyone stayed quite engaged… wait… what’s the difference between a layer & an interface again? 😉

That afternoon we headed out to the Marshfield Station at the base of the cog to learn about full profiles. While quite esoteric, this was the revealed snowpack on the west side of Mount Washington at 2,540 feet:

Marshfield Snow Profile
Marshfield Snow Profile

Day three started with a bit more classroom as we introduced some standardized weather and snowpack recording techniques and some new small and large column tests. We hit the trail around 11:45 and skinned up to 4,700 feet along the Cog Railway making observations along the way.

Starting our ascent
Starting our ascent
Reaching treeline
Reaching treeline
Jack, Matt, and Jeremy, all EMS School Guides
Jack, Matt, and Jeremy, all EMS School Guides

Along the way we experienced some small shooting cracks and some positive ski cutting results right alongside the Cog Railway. A few meters from “Jacob’s Ladder” at 4,750ft we dug some quick test pits to take a look at the layering up high. I didn’t get any footage/pics of the boot top powder we enjoyed on our 2,200 foot descent, but it was pretty sweet.

cog tour

We returned to the classroom late afternoon to go over the PM Stability and Hazard Checklist along with how to make our observations relevant.

On our final day we met at Pinkham Notch Visitor Center where the group went through a trip planning session on their own.

Morning Meeting
Morning Meeting

Mother Nature brought the insane cold temps for our full field day, as has been the norm this season, but we managed to check out conditions on both the southern aspects of the Lion’s Head Ridge (Summer of 69 Gully, with a great layer of Graupel!) and over on the eastern aspects below Hillman’s Highway, all along gathering weather and snowpack obs as we traveled through as much avalanche terrain as we could.

Approaching Hillman's Highway and seeing the damage of a R5, D4 years ago...
Approaching Hillman’s Highway and seeing the damage of a R5, D4 years ago…

During our tour we carried out many non-standardized test, hand shears, pole probing, etc., along with CT’s, ECT’s, PST’s, and a Rutshblock. Again, esoteric in nature here was my tour plan and field day:

photo 2A bit blurry, but a nice record of our day none-the-less. It was great working with these 7 folks at increasing their understanding of the avalanche phenomenon. As with every course I teach I learned more about the material, and how to try to deliver it to others, mainly through the willingness of the students to engage and challenge my delivery. I’ll be attending a AIARE 2 IRC (Instructor Refresher Course) next season, and would love to see EMS Schools provide 2 AIARE 2 courses a season, as collectively we all work at raising awareness on how to manage avalanche hazard while still getting “shred the gnar”.

Counting this weekend we only have 6 more AIARE 1 courses left this season. 2 are sold out, and the other 4 are close to sold out. If you’ve been wanting to get some formal avy training under your belt this winter this week could be your last chance to book. Please check the dates here and don’t delay!

See you on the mountain!

Sharktooth Longneck Pro T Shovel Review

A couple weeks ago I received a Brooks-Range Sharktooth Longneck Pro T Shovel to test from our Tech Sport buyer at Eastern Mountain Sports. The fact I was given this shovel to test has in no way influenced my opinion of it. I’m not even sure if I can keep it, but after testing it during avalanche courses on Mount Washington and in the Adirondacks I hope I can!

Sharktooth LongNeck Pro
Sharktooth LongNeck Pro

When I first grabbed the shovel I felt like it must be heavier than my current touring shovels, and I was right, but not by much. It’s 9 ounces heavier than my lightest shovel I carry, the Black Diamond Deploy 3, and only 2 ounces heavier than my more serious back-country shovel, the Black Diamond Transfer 7. What it gains for those added ounces though is quite impressive!

First, this thing telescopes to 40.75 inches! That’s huge, and more than 6 inches of length over my BD Transfer 7 and still collapses small enough to easily fit in the avalanche gear pocket of my EMS Wintergreen Backpack, which BTW I reviewed here.

Second, the T handle has option to be used at a 90 degree angle. This can be very helpful while scrapping snow away if you are a secondary shoveler in a rescue, though personally I always find a flush T grip more comfortable to dig with, so I probably won’t be using this feature.

Third, and quite impressive, is the “Sharktooth™” edge of the blade, an aggressive serration. Chopping through wet slab debris in Tuckerman Ravine and those concrete parking lot snowbanks I so often find myself burying avalanche beacons in for course practice is pretty manageable with this blade, and it’s only available on Brooks-Range shovels! I also found it quite easy to create smooth snow pit walls for making quality snow-pack observations.

Smooth walls = better info
Smooth walls = better info

Fourth, Brooks-Range has built in some functionality that would be welcome to any serious alpinist. Deadman holes allow for use as an emergency anchor with potential advantages during glacier rescue and while climbing snow routes. The shovel shafts can also double as stretcher bars when used with the Brooks-Range Mountaineering Rescue Sled™.

Finally it comes in a multitude of colors for those who like to coordinate. Are there really people looking to coordinate their shovel color? I guess so…

My wife wants "Choas Pink"
My wife wants “Chaos Pink”

So, to recap; slightly heavier, WAY more functional than any of my current shovels, digs better due to the “Sharktooth” blade and extending longer, added versatility of being able to use it as a dead-man or in conjunction with a rescue sled, and comes in many different colors. What’s not to like?

 

AIARE 1 Course, Lake Placid, NY

Last night I got home after conducting an AIARE 1 Course with fellow guide and manager of our Lake Placid EMS Schools location, Dan Sandberg over in the High Peaks region of the Adirondacks. It was great to work with Dan in an area I was not familiar with. Even better, a size-able Nor’ Easter commonly called “Nemo” in the major news outlets arrived the same night I did and laid down close to two feet of snow for us to recreate on.

Northeast Nemo blizzard expected snowfall totals

Dan had arranged a great classroom space at the Adirondack “Loj”, a great facility run by the Adirondack Mountain Club, very similar to our local AMC Highland Center and Joe Dodge Lodge.

Getting settled in for some morning classroom on Day 1
Getting settled in for some morning classroom on Day 1

11 students, including EMS Schools Guide Dustin Ulrich, 3 EMS Store Guides from our Middletown, RI and Nanuet, NY stores, an educational trip leader and hut manager for ADK, an Adventure Education Major, a couple military guys, and all around winter sports enthusiasts all helped create a great environment to start learning about decision making in the back-country.

On our 2nd Day we toured up the Memorial Highway on the north-side of Whiteface Mountain.

Ski-cutting a low angle slope
Ski-cutting a low angle slope

Along the way we practiced making weather observations and quick snow-pack observations like pole probing, ski-cutting, and boot penetration in the cold new storm snow that had blanketed the area. Unstable snow was definitely around as we experienced some whumping and were able to get small shooting cracks on some convex areas off to the side of the road. We were quite safe as we kept our slope angle well below anything risky. After looking more closely at the snow at 3,800 feet and learning about tilt tests, hand hardness scale, and compression tests, we enjoyed the 3.26 mile glide back down to the parking lot.

Whiteface Tour
Whiteface Tour

Later I shared my field observations with the group and we talked about the relevancy of our results.

Not the best handwriting... I know
Not the best handwriting… I know

On the 3rd day we spent some time in the classroom looking at some avalanche terrain and figuring out possible route selections based on conditions, and talked about travel techniques to help further mitigate risk. One of the bigger challenges of carrying out an avalanche course in the Adirondacks is the access to the actual avalanche paths is a bit remote, so we decided it would be more valuable to get some more Companion Rescue practice in on the last day and headed out across Heart Lake to a nice back-country ski trail to run through some more detailed rescue scenarios.

Heading out across Heart Lake
Heading out across Heart Lake

I took some video of one of the scenarios and uploaded it here:

http://youtu.be/kc3JTIaqtoU

A disclaimer, we only had the recent 18 inches of snow to practice on so we could not bury the beacons at a realistic depth. I also threw a big curve-ball at this group with a surface victim which ended up creating some great discussion on the realities of a possible rescue. The next run these three did went a lot smoother. Everyone in the course walked away feeling this was something they could practice a lot more of with their friends, and that was exactly what we hoped!

I must admit I was concerned about meeting all the learning objectives of an AIARE 1 Course in an area I wasn’t familiar with especially with very low snow depth in relation to seasonal norms there. Based on the course feedback forms we received we met our goals, and that, combined with co-teaching with a new instructor, and excellent constructive feedback from the participants, made this course a huge personal learning experience and I’m excited to return next winter for another course in the Dacks’!

Now it’s time to start prepping for the AIARE 2 Course that starts this Friday.

If you enjoy these course reports the best way you can let me know is by subscribing at the link top right. The 2nd best way if you don’t want to subscribe is to leave a quick comment… especially if you were in the course!

Safe travels,

Ice Climbing 201

Today I had the pleasure of taking former AIARE student Ben, and new climbers Ian and Brian out for a day of multi-pitch ice climbing as part of their 3 Day Accelerated Mountaineering Program. Knowing popular routes would be a bit crowded with the ongoing Ice Fest in town I choose a slab route on Willard just to the right of the recently popular Left Hand Monkey Wrench. This slab is just over 200 feet in length and is probably 3-. The first half was lower angled bullet proof ice but the 2nd half was steeper growing plastic ice.

East side of Willard
East side of Willard

In the above photo you can see Left Hand Monkey Wrench on the left side, and the slab we climbed is right in the center, directly under The Cleft. This climb deserves way more traffic than it sees, and is actually more aesthetic and interesting than Left Hand Monkey Wrench. It has the added bonus of being fed directly from run-off of the amazing “Cleft” climb, and in the current low snow conditions you could pretty much follow water ice from the slab all the way to the start of the Cleft, with a couple bulges just before the gully proper. It isn’t that hard to find either. During our hike up from the tracks I had to grab a photo of some of the 5mm Surface Hoar growing around some rocks. Those who know me understand why 5mm SH is kinda a big deal 😉

Surface Hoar
Surface Hoar
Ian and Brian on the unnamed slab
Ian and Brian on the unnamed slab
A climber from an AMC group pulling the crux of the Cleft
A climber from an AMC group pulling the crux of the Cleft
Looking down the geologically impressive Cleft
Looking down the geologically impressive Cleft
Brain and Ian on the summit of Willard
Brain and Ian on the summit of Willard
Brian, Ben, and Ian at the top, Mt. Webster in the background
Brian, Ben, and Ian at the top, Mt. Webster in the background

Tomorrow these three are heading up Mount Washington for their final day and while I will not be joining them I am optimistic that they are well prepared with very favorable weather and I’m certain they’ll have a great day. I hope to climb with all three of them again soon!

2 Day Private Ice Climbing

A couple years ago I introduced brothers Greg and Chris to ice climbing during a 2 Day Winter Mountaineering course. That trip report is here. Two weeks later Greg came back and climbed Hitchcock Gully with me, trip report here. After almost a two year hiatus Greg has come back for two days of climbing with goals of learning to lead and bagging the classic East coast route, Pinnacle Gully. Insanely warm temps (and rain) kept us away from the ice yesterday, so we focused on some self-rescue and glacier skills on the top of Cathedral. Namely;

1) Belay Escape

2) Ascending fixed rope

3) Canadian Drop-Loop

4) 3:1 Improvised Pulley

5) 5:1 Improvised Pulley

Along with looking at some of the advantages and disadvantages of various belay methods. To finish the day we rappelled the Book of Solemnity and Lower Refuse, 450 feet of steep exposed rappelling in wet conditions…

Rapping the Book
Rapping the Book
Bench anchor on the Book
Bench anchor on the Book
Rapping Lower Refuse
Rapping Lower Refuse

Short clip finishing the rappel:

Day 2 was the start of the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest so we knew climbs would be busy. Being a private 1v1 kind of day I suggested we meet at 7am to get ahead of the crowds, and off we went to the most popular climb at Frankenstein Cliffs, Standard Rt. Pulling up to the parking lot we were greeted by two good size foxes enjoying some food that a careless hiker/climber had lost on the road. One was quite unafraid as we drove by slowly:

http://youtu.be/6TLdZQmDMR0

We were the 2nd car in the parking lot and the 2nd party on route. Since the first party started up the middle we climbed up to the cave via the right hand start.

Close to the top of pitch 1
Close to the top of pitch 1
In the cave, Standard Route
In the cave, Standard Route

After waiting for the bombardment of dinner plates on P2 we headed up to the 2nd comfy belay ledge.

Finishing 2nd pitch
Finishing 2nd pitch
Lots of people behind us
Lots of people behind us

Greg finishes the route in style:  http://youtu.be/4cGT8E95NTc

We headed down to the slab to the right of the Hanging Gardens and worked on some technique while running a couple top-ropes, then returned to the base of the climb.

Standard Route? Check!
Standard Route? Check!

Greg is amped to get on Pinnacle. While high avalanche danger kept us away this trip, I’m thinking next time I see him we’ll be making tracks for Huntington after a quick warm-up day. Now to get ready for 3 more days of guiding ice before heading to Lake Placid next week!