White’s Ledge, Albany NH

After what feels like an eternity I was able to grab a day of rock climbing with my long time friend and climbing partner, Bob. I had been itching to check out a recently developed crag not far from my home, White’s Ledge in Albany, NH, and today proved a perfect day to head out there.

After dropping my son off at daycare in Conway we headed south on Rt 16 and quickly reached the White Ledge Campground parking lot at 9:30. The approach was in classic late Fall conditions, meaning slippery leaves covered the 1.7 mile steady climb to the toe of the cliff, which took us 55 minutes.

After getting geared up we decided on “Go West Young Man“, a fun looking 5.7 established by Brad White and Matt Peer this past summer. Bob cruised up pitch one:

Pitch one of Go West Young Man

Pitch 2 slowed us down a little. The route description states “Bring many very small nuts & cams”. They are not kidding! We had a normal rack with us, and without doubles/triples in the smaller C3/Alien sizes, along with some double smaller nuts, this crack is a bit hard to protect. We decided to come back for this pitch better equipped and retreated to “The Old Route“.

This route’s 2nd pitch is worthy of 3 stars, and we really enjoyed it!

The very classic 2nd pitch of the Old Route
Looking down the 2nd pitch amazing finger crack of nearby “Go West”… which we were not equipped for…
Looking up the last bit of the 2nd pitch of Old Route, which shares the finger crack of Go West for a bit…

I led the easier 3rd pitch up to a fixed anchor on a pine tree and from there we rappelled.

Looking down pitch 3 of the Old Route

One long double rope rappel and one short rappel put us on the ground. After coiling the ropes it was a short 30 minute hike down to the car, and soon after we were enjoying a couple cold IPA’s at a picnic table in the closed campground.

This is a really cool location, and I’m happy for the recent development. Looking forward to heading back there in the early Spring.


6 thoughts on “White’s Ledge, Albany NH

  1. Just read blog nice work. I see you have been posting on some stuff we have been developing sounds like you are enjoying your self. We should meet up an climb sometime. Cheers chinos mtn club


      • In a way he is, he has done some stuff in the new Durham area. We shall be posting a new cliff next weekend, we just put up twenty new lines. So I take it you know Casey


      • Check out some of the routes on the upper right side like walk on the white side. It’s only one pitch but its some of the best positioning on the cliff.


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