Five Ten Guide Tennies Review (and Friendly Foot Giveaway)

It would not be a stretch of the imagination to state that I have spent more time in the Five Ten Guide Tennies in the last 10 years than any other shoe! From May to November if I’m heading out with the sole purpose of rock climbing I am wearing these. This staple of my closet has recently undergone some changes and improvements that help guarantee it will continue to be my go-to shoe for all technical climbing. To really point out the changes it would be best to look at the pro’s and con’s of the older version first.

Previous version of the Five Ten Guide Tennie

Previous version of the Five Ten Guide Tennie- photo from

Simply put, they climbed better than any other approach shoe option out there, but lacked durability. I can attest to this as I happily replaced mine about every other year. Considering I would guide or climb in them 100+ days a year I was happy to sacrifice some longevity for how well I could climb in them, essentially being equals to dedicated climbing shoes on almost all routes up to 5.7 in difficulty. In many situations I felt I could climb better in these approach shoes than in climbing shoes. Two examples;

  1. Moderate slab climbing. The amount of Stealth rubber surface contact you could get with these on sub 5.7 slab climbing made long run outs seem like semi-technical hikes rather than climbs. They actually felt even more secure as the “dots” on the soles wore down leaving a smooth climbing shoe style sole for maximum friction.
  2. Foot jam territory. No better example than the classic Reppy’s Crack on Cannon Cliff. This crack is notorious for making your dogs bark like crazy when jamming it in snug fitting climbing shoes. Climb it in your wider more protective Guide Tennies and it feels a whole grade easier to me.
Peter Sielicki styles Reppy's Crack in his Five Ten Guide Tennies

Peter Sielicki styles Reppy’s Crack in his Five Ten Guide Tennies

There were two disadvantages to the older version. The first was the well known durability issue. I know some guides who were just not willing to keep replacing them after each season of guiding and looked for alternatives. Some would land on the much more expensive La Sportiva Ganda. Other’s would go for the more affordable Scrapa Crux. The durability issue seems to have been addressed as the new version is noticeably reinforced throughout, but especially in the heel and forefoot of the sole.

More supportive and robust heel cup than previous model

More supportive and robust heel cup than previous model- photo from

Thicker and slightly stiffer outersole made with C4 Stealth Rubber

Thicker and slightly stiffer outersole made with C4 Stealth Rubber- photo from

I’m expecting these to last a bit longer than the older version. I plan on maximizing their life with two tactics;

  1. Maintenance: Treat them with Nikwax. The uppers of the shoe are made of Nubuck Leather. Nikwax Waterproofing Wax will protect the leather from both drying out over time and from abrasion. I’ve been using this on leather for 2 decades. It darkens the leather a bit, which I like. After trips brush off loose dirt/mud and put them away dry. I’ll reapply the Nikwax at the start of every rock season.
  2. Selective use: I don’t wear these when I’m not going rock climbing. Ever. Walking down sidewalks wears C4 Stealth rubber down. I have another shoe I prefer to use for dedicated (non-technical) hiking and I’ll be posting a review for that updated model soon! If I save these for only technical rock climbing days I’m quite certain I’ll get 100-150 days out of them.
The latest version of the 5.10 Guide Tennie

The latest version of the 5.10 Guide Tennie

As with the previous version these shoes can still climb technical rock like no other in their class. The thicker outer sole and heel cup will definitely last longer than its previous incarnation, however it has stiffened the shoe up a bit. The “hand-ground beveled toe” makes this newer shoe edge better than its predecessor with only a small dip in smearing performance. The stiffer sole has another more subtle advantage over the previous sole in regards to foot fatigue. The older version was so soft you could feel every pebble you stepped on during an approach. I once hiked Mount Washington in my older Guide Tennies and could tell the next day it wasn’t the right tool for the job. Every rugged section of the trail massaged the bottom of my feet in a sadistic way. Rugged trail hikes require a bit more support on the bottom of the foot. The new version seems to have found the balance between sensitive-enough-for-technical-rock-climbing, but supportive enough to handle approaches that are a bit rougher than strolling up to Cathedral Ledge.

Another noticeable difference with the new version is the lacing. While the Guide Tennie has always had lacing similar to a climbing shoe Five Ten is using a thin low friction lace that allows the shoe to be snugged up from “Approach Mode” to “I Should Probably Put My Climbing Shoes On But I Kind Of Want To Show Off Mode” with out having to start the snug-fest all the way at the bottom. Subtle, but there.

Tight lacing

Tight lacing

At 14.43 oz these pack away small enough in my light alpine rock pack to not be noticed, though if the climbing is moderate I’ll probably just keep them on my feet!

Top of Cannon Cliff after climbing Lakeview, Grade III 5.6

Top of Cannon Cliff after climbing Lakeview, Grade III 5.6

Bottom line, the company that has been designing approach shoes since 1988 has redesigned this time tested model based on 2 decades of feedback. While no shoe will ever be absolutely perfect the Five Ten Guide Tennie does pretty well at trying to obtain that goal.

Friendly Foot Giveaway!

No matter what approach shoes you go with one thing is certain. Climbers feet stink. Luckily there is a company called Friendly Foot that understands this, and sells a product that actually works. You can refer to their website for all the details, but all you really need to know is my wife is adamant I never run out of it.

Works better out of the bottle

Works better out of the bottle

So, to enter to win a bottle of this great stuff just comment below on approach shoes, foot stink, the weather, what ever. That’s it. One comment = one entry. One entry per person. Contest ends at 11:59pm on 11/18/15. Drawing held 11/19/15. 

Don’t like leaving it to chance? I got you covered. Use Coupon Code “FF14” at checkout on their website to get a 10% discount on your order. Shipping is free on orders of 4 bottles or more! Pro-Tip, these are excellent stock stuffers for all the climbers on your Christmas list!

The Five Ten Guide Tennie- Best technical climbing shoe in its class!

The Five Ten Guide Tennie- Best technical climbing shoe in its class!

Thanks for reading! See you in the mountains!


Disclosure: I bought these with my own money. This post contains affiliate links which help to fund this website. 

About David Lottmann

David grew up skiing in the Whites and started climbing at a summer camp just north of Mt. Washington when he was 16. Those first couple of years solidified climbing as a lifetime passion. From 1996-2000 he served in the USMC, and spent the better part of those years traveling the globe (18 countries). After returning to civilian life he moved to North Conway to focus on climbing and was hired in 2004 as a Rock and Ice Instructor. Since then Dave has taken numerous AMGA courses, most recently attaining a Single Pitch Instructor. He has completed a Level 3 AIARE avalanche course, is a Level 2 Course Leader, holds a valid Wilderness First Responder and is a member of Mountain Rescue Service. When David isn't out guiding he enjoys mountain biking, kayaking, hiking, backcountry skiing, trying to cook something new once a week and sampling new micro-brews. He lives in Conway, NH with his wife Michelle, son Alex, and daughter Madalena.
This entry was posted in Footwear Reviews, Gear Reviews and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

19 Responses to Five Ten Guide Tennies Review (and Friendly Foot Giveaway)

  1. Chris Graham says:

    Great write up DMan!
    I just bought a pair of these and I’m waiting for them to come in from California. I’ve always had LaSportiva approach shoes but have heard some really good things about these so I decided to take a chance on them and will see how they feel!😉


    • David Lottmann says:

      Thanks Chris, I bet you’re going to love them. Maybe we can get out for a quick run up Whitehorse in them before it gets too cold!


      • Chris Graham says:

        Let’s do it Dave!
        I am afraid I may have sized my tennies too big. Went with an 11 which is pretty much what I wear in a street shoe, but the reviews I have been reading say these may run a bit large…so we will see how they fit and how they climb.


      • David Lottmann says:

        You might have. I’m usually a 9 street shoe and I went 8 on these, but you never know till you try them on! How’s the company you purchased them from with exchanges? If not I know a great consignment shop😉


  2. joe reid says:

    Sa-weet shoes (to accompany your sa-weet write up, DMan.


  3. jack says:

    I’ve never gotten a pair of approach shoes that I thought fit correctly. Either I’m picky or continually buy the wrong size. Probably a bit of both. Might have to get the updated version (once they go on sale) since I liked the old but they lacked durability in my opinion.


    • David Lottmann says:

      Thanks for commenting Jack. Sizing shoes is so tricky sometimes. I am anywhere from a US Men’s Size 8 to 9 or EUR 41 to 42, but in these I went with the size 8. After one or two days they broke in to feel perfect.


  4. chris o. says:

    Great review Dman… I haven’t thought about waxing them but I do have the wax thanks to a previous post of yours about Kincos. I am a perennial 5.10 approach fan too and love C4 in fact, I only get my shoes resoled in C4. I went with Tennies for the first time this year and have some thoughts:

    I do everything in approach shoes (i.e. backpack, around town, climb) I buy a pair of “Camp Four” Five Tens every Spring. This is the first year I went with the better-known Tennies. They are a good product but I think the Camp Fours are notably better. My Tennies showed serious degradation after one hike in the Dacks and while I know back-country hiking takes a toll on the life of approach shoes (I anticipate this), the Camp Fours breaks down much slower. It takes many hikes for the soles on the Camp Fours to de-laminate but my Tennies showed signs on one of their first tests. Maybe they’ve changed the construction on all their shoes. Also, the laces leave a lot to be desired. They have to be double-knoted to keep from untying (yesterday on the treadmill a recent reminder) and because they are so thin undoing that knot is a pain. In regular use I take them on/off like slippers which only further contorts the shoe but lacing/unlacing takes a few minutes. I probably won’t go with these again in March even though they are a great shoe. It’s fair to also note that I don’t use approach shoes for anything above fourth class. The Tennie is definitely a bit closer to a climbing shoe though both perform well beyond hiking boots and are good for my purposes. I didn’t see the Four’s on their website so I hope they are making them in March.


    • David Lottmann says:

      Thanks for the comments Chris! I love the Camp Fours for all the reasons you mentioned. I reviewed the older version two years ago here and recently purchased the new version which I am really liking! IMO both shoes are better at what they are designed for. Guide Tennies for technical climbing. Camp Fours for rugged hiking. I know even the newer Guide Tennie won’t outlast a Camp Four which is why I am selective about which are on my feet when heading out the door!


  5. Alec Frankel says:

    For a guy who can’t wear Scarpa or La Sportiva shoes at all, I sure am glad that 5.10 makes as nice of shoes as they do. Plenty wide enough for me and boy do I love 5.10’s rubber. Dave great review.


  6. alecfrankel says:

    Dave, great review. For someone who has wider feet and can’t get into a pair of Scarpa or La Sportivas, I sure am glad that 5.10 makes such nice shoes. Not to mention I love their rubber!


  7. Pingback: Thin Air & Fall Colors with Manny | North East Alpine Start

  8. Michael Hancock says:

    I can second that using the old version for a Huntington ravine approach and decent was not ideal. I look forward to getting my feet into their newest incarnation.


  9. Andrew Blease says:

    Good review. I’ve been wondering how they compare to the old model, now I know.


  10. My husband’s shoes could totally use this!!


  11. My husband’s shoes need this!!


  12. Pingback: LaSportiva TX2 Approach Shoes Review (and Friendly Foot Giveaway) | North East Alpine Start

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s