12-28-09 Mount Washington Climb

For my first trip up the rock pile this season I got to climb with Kel, Carl, and Jerome. These life-long friends were a fun group to hike with. With moderate winds and “normal” visibility we made it to the top and back to the car with a bit of daylight left, and some sore muscles.

After a 2 mile warm up hike we put crampons on at the base of the steeps...

Kel tackling some steeper terrian...

After breaking tree-line we climbed towards the "Lion's Head"...
On the summit cone we had typical visibility!
First summit photo of the season!

Thank you guys (and gal) for a great day on the hill! Your jokes were funny, teamwork top-notch, and positive energy contagious. Hope to see you all back for some rock climbing next summer!

12-19-09 Willey’s Slide

For my 1st official guiding day of the season I had the privilege of taking Ben, Dan, and Tanner on their 1st multi-pitch winter climbing experience. These three guys were taking our very popular 3-Day Accelerated Mountaineering Program, and this was Day 2 of their trip.

We drove up Route 302 to Crawford Notch, and after a warm-up hike reached the base of Willey’s Slide, a 700 foot high ice climb that is great for learning some multi-pitch techniques, and was named after the tragic event in 1826 that claimed the Willey Family (hence the phrase “A Case of the Willey’s.”

Dan and Ben warming up on the approach...
Looking up our intended climb... a couple climbers were about 200 feet up already...

Ben, Dan, and Tanner on the lower pitches of the climb...

Dan tops out the climb, with the road and another parties backpacks FAR below...

Great first day of the season for me, and I heard you guys had a good time on Mt. Washington the following day! Thanks for joining us for some winter adventure and hope to see you all back again. I know I’ll see you again Tanner!

12-18-09 Here comes the winter season!

Well it’s been awhile since I have posted due to it being the “off season” for guide work. Last week I attended an AIARE Avalanche Instructor’s Refresher Course. This will be my 3rd season teaching Level 1 AIARE courses and I must say I am excited about it! I am quickly becoming more and more intrigued by this “snow science” and am happy to be able to pass on what knowledge I can through the excellent course curriculum from AIARE. If you haven’t taken an avalanche course yet, or it’s been awhile, this may be the season to do it!

You can view all our scheduled courses here;

http://emsclimb.com/aiare_1.html

The 1st course is already sold out, and the rest are sure to follow!

9-5-09 Private Rock Climbing Lesson

Eric and Lori got up at 2AM to make the drive from New York City all the way to the White Mountains for their 1st “trad” climbing experience. Both were pretty strong boulderers and had some indoor experience. We cruised up Thin Air in the morning and then spent some time at the North End of Cathedral.

Eric on the pitch 2 traverse of Thin Air...
Eric on the pitch 2 traverse of Thin Air...
Looking down pitch 3 of Thin Air...
Looking down pitch 3 of Thin Air...
Lori on the 4th pitch of Thin Air...
Lori on the 4th pitch of Thin Air...

It was a good day of climbing with you both! Hope you had fun at Rumney the following day!

9-4-09 Discover Rock Climbing Course

Kellen and his father Ron made the short trip from Gorham, ME to try rock climbing today. They could not have picked a better day to be out in the White Mountains! After endless weeks of rain we have been blessed with some great sunshine and dry weather! Since it was supposed to a be a warm day we headed for Square Ledge in Pinkham Notch. Other than a few hikers and one intriguing musician we had the cliff to ourselves! No bugs, no crowds, no humidity… couldn’t get much better than that! We climbed the West Face, The Chimney, and finished on The Brain. It seemed everyone had a good time and I certainly hope to see Ron and Kellen again… their enthusiasm for a new adventure is contagious!

Enjoy the slideshow, and if you’ve followed my blog I apologize for the repeat use of this Cold Play song… but it seems to fit these slideshows pretty well. I am open to some instrumental suggestions!

Don’t forget to select “HD” and full screen for better viewing! HD may not be available for 15 minutes.

9-1-09 Discover Rock Climbing Course

Tom and his daughter decided to try some rock climbing while on vacation in the White Mountains. They tried ice climbing last year with us at our New Paltz, NY location and were eager for more. Mom came along to watch our progress but preferred the flat ground!
Whitehorse Ledge in North Conway is about 900 feet tall...
Whitehorse Ledge in North Conway is about 900 feet tall...
Mom keeps an eye on us while we gear up...
Mom keeps an eye on us while we gear up...
Dad and Daughter at the 1st pitch belay...
Dad and Daughter at the 1st pitch belay...
Laura finding purchase on the slabs...
Laura finding purchase on the slabs...
Rigged to rappel back down...
Rigged to rappel back down...
Laura walking up "Relic Hunter", 5.7 at the Echo Roof area...
Laura walking up "Relic Hunter", 5.7 at the Echo Roof area...
Lay-backing up Beelzebub corner... a bit harder now that a block is missing......
Lay-backing up Beelzebub corner... a bit harder now that a block is missing......
Tom demonstrates a no-hands rest...
Tom demonstrates a no-hands rest...
A new sport combining rock climbing with tree climbing!
A new sport combining rock climbing with tree climbing!

Fun time climbing with you guys, and perfect weather to boot! Thanks for coming up from Jersey for some climbing. Perhaps we’ll see you this winter for some ice climbing on Laura’s birthday!

8-17-09 Rock Climbing with Ray

Ray came up from vacationing in Southern New Hampshire to try rock climbing outside after getting a taste of it on an indoor wall. While the temps went over 90 we found a nice shady top-rope on the Thin Air face of Cathedral Ledge.

Ray on the 1st pitch of Thin Air
Ray on the 1st pitch of Thin Air
Lowering down the 1st climb...
Lowering down the 1st climb...
Looking down from the top of the 1st pitch of Thin Air
Looking down from the top of the 1st pitch of Thin Air
The view includes the Saco River in the background...
The view includes the Saco River in the background...
In the afternoon we decided to do some multi-pitch. This is looking down the 1st pitch of Upper Refuse.
In the afternoon we decided to do some multi-pitch. This is looking down the 1st pitch of Upper Refuse.
My self-portrait...
My self-portrait...
Nearing the top of the climb...
Nearing the top of the climb...

Ray, thanks for coming up and climbing with me today. It was a pleasure despite the hottest day of the summer! Hope to see you and Dad up here again for some more climbing!

8-11-09 and 8-13-09 Rock Climbing with the Koury Family!

This is the 5th year the Koury’s have come up to climb with us and it is always such a great time! Joe and Holli have 3 great boys who have improved their climbing skills dramatically over the years climbing with us. We started our 1st day with some warm up rappelling and top-roping at Jockey Cap.

We started our two day climbing program at Jockey Cap, in nearby Fryeburg, ME...
We started our two day climbing program at Jockey Cap, in nearby Fryeburg, ME...
Andy on rappel...
Andy on rappel...
Holli on rappel...
Holli on rappel...
The weather was nice in the morning...
The weather was nice in the morning...
The boys climbed well despite steep wet rock!
The boys climbed well despite steep wet rock!
Joe scoping out the route...
Joe scoping out the route...
He's just walking up the rock!
He's just walking up the rock!
Dad's on belay duty...
Dad's on belay duty...

Later that afternoon we started hearing the tell-tale “boomers” of a gathering thunderstorm in the distance. We pulled our ropes and made it back to the car minutes before the 1st rain drops. During the short drive back to the school we got some very heavy rain, winds, and even a little hail! Good adventure to be sure!

P8110017

Two days later we met up again, this time for a longer “multi-pitch” day of climbing on Cathedral Ledge.

Conrad at the 1st pitch anchor with Nick and Joe
Conrad at the 1st pitch anchor with Nick and Joe
Andy hanging out at the "hanging belay" stance...
Andy hanging out at the "hanging belay" stance...
Andy climbing the 2nd pitch of "Upper Refuse"
Andy climbing the 2nd pitch of "Upper Refuse"
Mike and Andy at the 2nd Belay Ledge...
Mike and Andy at the 2nd Belay Ledge...
Andy nears the top of the climb...
Andy nears the top of the climb...
Mike isn't far behind...
Mike isn't far behind...
Joe only feet from the top!
Joe only feet from the top!
Andy tries a difficult little "finger crack" called Little Feat
Andy tries a difficult little "finger crack" called Little Feat
Mike found it a challenge as well...
Mike found it a challenge as well...
We finished the day with two 200 foot rappels back down to the ground...
We finished the day with two 200 foot rappels back down to the ground...

Between trout fishing in the northern woods to rock climbing in the White Mountains, it sounds like you guys had a great family vacation this summer! It is great climbing with you all and joining you for breakfast at The Nereledge Inn. Thank you for continuing to climb with Conrad and I and we both hope to see you this winter to try your hand at ice climbing! Be well Koury’s!

8-7-09 1/2 Day Rock Climbing w/ Ilona

Throughout the morning climbing techniques came back to Ilona...
Throughout the morning climbing techniques came back to Ilona...
The 1st Pitch of the very classic Thin Air route (5.6)
The 1st Pitch of the very classic Thin Air route (5.6)

Today I met Ilona, originally a climber in Czech Republic 20 years ago she decided to come up from her current Boston residence and get back onto the rock. Since she had a long distance bike ride planned for the afternoon we just did a half day, top-roping on the Thin Air Face and at the North End of Cathedral.

Despite perfect temperatures the Thin Air Face was almost completely vacant!
Despite perfect temperatures the Thin Air Face was almost completely vacant!

Thanks for coming up for the morning Ilona. Perhaps we’ll see you again with your daughter next time! I hear she is quite the gym climber!