I have just finished my 2nd winter season climbing in the award winning La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX Mountaineering Boots and I should have shared my impressions of this boot long before now. As the saying goes, better late than never!
Shopping for a high end mountaineering boot is stressful. Climbers will pour over online reviews, solicit advice from guides, climbing partners, shop employees, and so on. No doubt about it pulling the trigger on a $500+ purchase while imagining black toes, blisters, or cold feet can feel as sketchy as running out 50 feet of verglas with no protection. While there is some truth to the saying “If the shoe fits” the unfortunate reality is few climbing shops will stock the high end models, and special orders may seem risky with various return policies and shipping costs. What is a prospective buyer to do? Read, read, then read some more. To that end I’ll add the following personal opinions to the plethora of positive reviews already out on the interwebs.
But first, context. It would be good to know what similar products the reviewer has experience with if in order to validate their opinion. These are the boots I have climbed in extensively over the last 16 years, both leading ice climbs up to Grade 5 in difficulty and countless mountaineering trips up Mount Washington.
Koflach Verticals (discontinued)
Koflach Degre’s
Asolo Cholotse’s
Scarpa Mont Blanc Mountaineering Boots
Of these the Cholatse’s have a special place in my gear room as I am on my 2nd pair and are worthy of their own review. Long story short they are a tad lighter than the Batura’s but can not compete with the warmth of the Batura’s. It’s not a fair comparison though as the Cholatse’s do not have the built in super gaiter. I’ll get into more detail on the Cholatse’s in another review. Let’s focus on the guest of honor.
Style:
Is it a single boot with a gaiter? A synthetic hybrid? A double boot? What exactly are we looking at here?
The President of La Sportiva NA, Jonathon Lantz, calls it a true “1.5 boot”. Half way between the best single boot and the best double boot for warmth. An accurate description would be a technologically advanced single leather/synthetic hybrid with a built in super gaiter. Quite a mouthful, but there really is quite a bit of technology put into this boot! Before we dive into that though let’s look at fit:
Fit:
I am a very standard US Men’s Size 9 with a noticeable “Morton’s Toe”. The European size 42 fits me perfectly, as it has in the Asolo’s & Koflachs I have also worn. When comparing them to the Asolo Cholatse’s there is a slightly noticeable narrower feel to them. While my feet are medium width they are definitely not to snug for me but wider feet might have an issue with these. Narrower feet will really like the lacing system I am about to mention but low volume feet should consider swapping the factory insole out for a thicker insole like my well loved Superfeet REDHots.
Lacing:
Tucked underneath the velcro protected waterproof zipper is the boots lacing system. What sets this apart for other lacing systems is the integrated ratchet system just over the top of your foot. This ratchet system lets you get a snug lace which really holds the foot in place in the boot, critical for preventing toe bash on long descents and while repeated kicking into hard waterfall ice.
Waterproofness:
La Sportiva has essentially matched the bombproof waterproofness of a plastic boot but kept the boot breathable and much lighter. How? Two layers of Goretex. One within the boot itself, and another within the attached “super gaiter”. This technology was tested on one particularly drenching descent off Mount Washington this winter with 8+ inches of slush on the trail. I was not expecting my feet to stay dry given the conditions and felt a bit guilty when back at the shop my clients were wringing out their socks (they all wore plastic boots, so I’m thinking they must have stepped in a deeper flow at one or three of the waterbars that cross the trail).
Warmth:
I’ll need to confess a bit before I start talking about warmth. I have very warm feet. Fellow search & rescue members have raised eyebrows in the past when I’ve turned out with my Asolo Cholatse’s on, and while they have kept me warm while staying on the move in -20f temps with wind chills around -50f I have become more cautious about what I select for these missions that may involve a overnight bivouac with a patient. To that end if the mercury is down I’ll be in my Batura’s. Here’s why. The boot uses “Gore-Tex Insulated Comfort Technology“. While La Sportiva/Goretex doesn’t go into much detail about this technology there is noticeably more insulation in the boot than my 200gr Thinsulate Cholatse’s. The doubling up on the Goretex linings undoubtedly adds warmth while maintaining a small amount of true breath-ablility. The super-gaiter definitely adds a lot of warmth and I’m really a fan of having laces that never freeze (because they are 100% enclosed in the super-gaiter).
Coldest temps I’ve tested these: -27f ambient air temps with wind chills -50f to -60f. Feet were toasty while moving but I wouldn’t want to stand around for a hour. My sock of choice is the Smartwool Mountaineer Socks.
Were they as warm as my experiences with double plastic boots? Quite close really. The real difference here is the lack of a removable lining. This has implications for multi-day expeditions. A 5 day trip to Katahdin? No problem. A month long trip in Alaska? I might miss having a remove-able liner and would probably take a very close look at the La Sportiva Spantiks. As for day trip convenience if you don’t have one already pick up a decent boot dryer. I’m able to dry mine out daily during the busiest part of the guiding season and the drier really cuts down on any potential foot odor.
Comfort/Performance:
So how do they feel? Over the last two winters I have worn them up & down Mount Washington about 12 times, and ice climbed 30+ days in them. My feet were quite happy at the end of every day, which is saying something considering our low snow year has not given us the smooth sailing trail conditions we are used to. Mile after mile of uneven rocky scrambling, often with micro-spikes on to contend with acres of water ice covering trails most the season, and never a sore foot. While ice climbing the stiff carbon insole provides a stable platform while front pointing and the flexible uppers make flat footing super casual.
Crampon compatibility:
For mountaineering days I paired them with my older style Petzl Vasak crampons. They fit perfectly and the combo made for a very light boot/crampon match. For ice climbing I spent this season in the Black Diamond Cyborg crampons, again, a perfect fit.
Summary:
If you’ve read all this, or read any of the other reviews around the web, you’ve probably heard enough by now. They are one of the best single boot for ice climbing/mountaineering in the lower 48! They score high across the board and if you can find a shop that stocks them take a few minutes to slip a pair on. You can also order them from Amazon here!
Contest/Giveaway: Edit 5/1/16 (CONGRATS TO WINNER TODD R!)
It’s been far to long since I’ve offered up some tasty shwag to my readers so today I’m offering up something that any outdoors person should be psyched to get. A VSSL Supplies Kit, worth $109.99! You can read my review of this clever product here. Simple to enter, just comment below on what your favorite boots are. Hiking, climbing, skiing, it doesn’t matter. Just keep it about footwear and you’re entered! All commentators will be entered into a climbing helmet and the winner will be drawn and announced on 5/1/2016. I think we’ll have a video clip of the drawing as Alex is pretty pumped about being the lottery official.
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See you in the mountains,
NEAlpineStart
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links which help to fund this website.
Northeast Alpine Start 
I did a partial Presi traverse with my Salomon Spikecross climashield. It was -25 and while moving it was’nt cold at all! Thanks for your great posts!
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Wow! That’s definitely a don’t stop moving shoe! Light & fast FTW
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Gotta say I love my LS boots. I rock the Buruntses for cragging, where im gonn abe standing around quite a bit or cold days up on the big rock pile. If going to mainly be active most of the time I got with my Nepals. Both fit like a glove
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It’s good to have options!
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Since I mostly climb ice within 10 min of the car in the Daks, I go with a lightweight setup of Scarpa Rebel Pro GTX boots (42 oz/pair vs. the Batura 2.0s at 63 oz/pair). I pair them with super lightweight Petzl Dartwins. I have super warm feet too and use them down to 0 deg F without problem (med wgt socks and toe warmers). Very comfortable to hike in too. I found the Batura 2.0s to be more clunky to walk in as the sole doesn’t have very much camber.
For something like Mt Washington in the winter (or extended trips) I’m really interested in the Arcteryx Acrux AR GTX which is a double boot just slightly heavier than most 1.5 boots (at 1Kg/boot).
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Very nice ultralight setup! Those Arcteryx Acrux AR GTX’s look sick!
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Favorites:
Kofkach Arctic Expree
Scarpa Inverno
Solomon Super Guide 9
Saime La Sportiva boot I used dor half a season
la Sporiva Nepal EVO
La Sportiva Nepal Cube Gtx
Why… Cuz at the time they were/are the best I could afford and truley each never really failed me in any regard.
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You have good taste in boots and climbing partners 😉
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I bought the Cubes last year, a great step up from my Asolo Titans and so comfortable on long days. This December I wore them up King Ravine, up Howker Ridge and up Pine Link Trails in icy but 0 snow conditions and my feet were as happy as can be. . Lasportiva gets my praise!
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I’m hoping to try the Cubes next year! Thanks for commenting!
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I just bought a pair of Lowa Renegades in town yesterday after getting off of the mountain. I applied the first coat of Limber Grease on them and am breaking them in on my commute. Real comfy and super light and supportive. I’ll go live with them next weekend and they look very promising.
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I’ve never owned a Lowa but that looks like a solid backpacking boot Mark!
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Nepal evos always seem to work! Although could be a bit warmer… And would be nice if the lacing was a bit better around the top..
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Both those issues are well addressed in the Batura’s IMO… when you are in need of a new boot check them out!
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I have enjoyed the Spantiks so far. A warm boot, but a comfortable boot as well. I’ve only used them on Washington so far, going to take them out west now to see how they do. Great review, very helpful!
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I have a few co-workers who own the Spantiks. Nothing but positive praise for them! Thanks for commenting!
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Great review! This will be my next boots after I wear out my LS Nepal EVOs … which might be a while.
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Thanks! I don’t think you’ll be disappointed… if your Evo’s hold out maybe you can grab the 2.0 at a steal if they ever release a 3.0 😉
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Love my LS Nepal EVO GTX for ice climbing! Enjoy your posts always!
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Great boots! I enjoy your posts to! Looks like you had a great day out on the ice with Alexa. Also love the Lakeview pic on your home page, that route has so many fond memories for me during my early years!
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Sorry I didn’t see this earlier, just got back from attending my uncles funeral in Sacremento. Yes, I had a great two days with Alexa learning to lead ice – it was amazing and a great learning experience! Love Lakeview, heck, I love Cannon Mtn – last summer was WG, hoping to get to Moby Grape this summer!
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Condolences for your family loss! Definitely get on MG this summer, it is outstanding!
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My favorite pair of boots, hands down is the Raichle Monte Rosas I bought back in the mid 90’s. They’s stood up to a couple decades of hiking, search and rescue, travel, mud, rocks, scrambling, ice and snow climbing, easy technical rock, and they just keep going. One minor repair, a patch over the achilles tendon on the lighter leather section there, a lot of replaced laces, and that’s it. They’re full tang but with a rocker that makes them super comfortable for walking, and have enough welt to take a step-in crampon.
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Do you still have them? Send a pic if you do.
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These boots are made for skiing… Scarpa Maestrale RS. Best fitting ski boots ever and light as the BC powder they just carried me through in the Selkirks. Toured like slippers on the Haute Route too. They do it all.
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Looks like those would give my Dynafits a run for their money… thanks for the comment!
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Thanks for the great review! I’ve been using the Lowa Mountain Expert EVO GTX boots for the past couple months. While heavy, my feet seem to be breaking in to them. Great hikeability (though heavy at the end of a long day), and they work great with crampons when the route gets sketchy. Happy climbing!
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That is a beefy boot for the trips I see you post up about! Consider shedding some weight off your feet if you don’t need that much boot just yet!
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Thank you for the suggestion! I’ve tried numerous pairs (albeit through REI only), and finally settled on these so I could use crampons if necessary on my upcoming JMT hike. They also seemed to break in the best. I may get superfeet to help with arch pain and then once I complete the trip, I may invest in a couple pairs 🙂 are there lighter boots that have front and rear Crampon welts?
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Ok, my $.02 with what little I know about JMT. Assuming you’re attempting this in peak warm weather season how much of the trail is expected to be snow covered? Less than 10% I would imagine. In that case my strategy would be supportive rugged trail shoes (I love my Five Ten Camp Four’s for this) and drop ship boots for higher elevation snowy parts (my assumption is they are rare, but I have not done the JMT). If you need ankle support forget it, stick with backpacking boots, but I would still go lighter than your current choice. “A pound on the foot is like 5 on the back” is an old adage. You can move further, faster, and with less soreness, if you lighten up your footwear. Big disclaimer is you need to condition your ankles you hike without ankle support. Don’t confuse the underfoot support quality trail shoes provide vrs. “sneakers” which would be a terrible idea. Finally, if you do encounter snow, you should only need the lightest 10 point crampon you can find. No need for a front & real welt for light weight trail crampons. For very occasional not too steep use you could strap this on a trail shoe: http://www.ems.com/hillsound-trail-pro-crampon/1312831.html#start=1
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Thank you again for your feedback! I’m a little concerned with the el Niño year we’re having giving us snowstorms in the Sierras later in the season. I’m starting mid June, so not too early, but we shall see!
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I need mountainerring boots. I ice climbed with Vasquez winter boots and a pair of George Mallory’s crampons this past winter and one leather strap got jostlwd off 90% the way up. I appreciate the write up above.
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I’d agree with you! Proper boot/crampon fit is way too important to not have great gear when in steep terrain!
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Not much mountaineering here in Connecticut, closest I comes is trailing scouts during a Klondike Derby. I wear Scarpa SL M3 with wool socks and trail crampons if needed.
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Another great brand and a classic leather boot! I wonder if Scarpa is still made in Italy?
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I’ve been climbing a LONG time. My first mountain boots were a pair of second-hand leather Toni Eggers (which I loved- so much that a high school girlfriend did a full scale pencil portrait of them…I still have it framed), followed by, massive Lowa double leather boots, the awesome Galibier Super Guides, Scarpa Alphas, La Sportiva Nepal Evo’s, and now the La Sportiva Batura 2.0… Just let me say that the Baturas feel like cheating! Warm, light, nimble…very cool looking, and best of all, my son doesn’t have ’em yet! Coupled with modern tools & crampons, even Grandad can lead WI4!
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That is one of the coolest endorsements I have seen! Thanks for commenting!
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Nice review as always Dave. My go to winter boot for years has been the Nepal Evo GTX. Need a new boot and have been wavering between the Cube and Batura’s. Your review has helped me decide! Would be interested to know if the lasts are similar as my current boots fit great. As an aside, after wearing SmartWool mountaineering socks for years I switched to Darn Tough. They’re warmer and more “cushy.” With that I’ll be interested to get a hold of – and been promised early – the new SmartWool sock designed in conjunction with Conrad Anker (think thinner and more technical like newer ski socks).
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Thanks for the great review.
I have an old pair of Koflach Degres that I picked up used in North Conway. I’ve been reluctant to put down the money for nicer boots because I only get out a few days a year. My feet as well run warm so I’ve been inclined to pick up Nepal EVOs whenever I make the jump.
I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on boots for the Cascades volcanoes in the summer or spring in the Tetons.
Thanks!
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(CONGRATS TO WINNER TODD R!)
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[…] This is actually less than an ounce difference than my beloved my La Sportiva Batura 2.0’s that I reviewed last winter here. […]
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[…] This is actually less than an ounce difference than my La Sportiva Batura 2.0’s that I reviewed last winter here. […]
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